First Look: Lindarets ReMount Remote Dropper Adapter

May 19, 2015
by Richard Cunningham  
ReMount dropper remote adapter 2015

Lindarets is a small US manufacturer that offers solutions to common technical problems that mountain bikers face, like Wolf Tooth booster cassette cogs, the Goat Link derailleur extender for Shimano Shadow mechs' and now, ReMount - a clever clamp-on stub that converts most dropper-post remote levers to emulate the action of a trigger shift lever, just like the Specialized SRL lever and the Fox DOSS remote.

The "ReMount" does just that, it is a molded-delrin stub, the same diameter as the handlebar, that changes the direction of the lever's actuation by 90 degrees, and more importantly, ReMount allows the dropper remote to be positioned within easy reach of the thumb while being clamped inboard of the brake lever. ReMount users get the freedom to position both the brake lever and the dropper remote exactly where they want them to be. It is one of those, "Why didn't I think of that?" products that should make a lot of riders happy.

Remount is made and sourced in the USA, and will operate with most cable-actuated dropper posts. It is designed to operate with a one-by drivetrain, but Lindarets tells us that friends with left-side shift levers have been adapting the ReMount stub with good results.
ReMount dropper remote adapter 2015
ReMount is molded from tough delrin plastic to the same diameter as a handlebar. The hardware is stainless steel and brass.
ReMount's post extension offers 30 millimeters of adjustment and its molded plastic construction is intended to both save weight and to prevent damage to carbon handlebars in the event of a crash. MSRP is $19 USD and the claimed weight is only 20 grams. Lindarets sells them direct from their web store.
Contact: Lindarets

ReMount dropper remote adapter 2015
ReMount with a Thomson Covert dropper remote lever.
ReMount dropper remote adapter 2015
The Lindarets adapter can also be paired with a left shifter.


MENTIONS: @foxracingshox


130 Comments

  • + 37
 How is it that people are hitting this with their knees but not their shifters?

If you are on a 1x(9,10,11) setup you most likely have no front derailleur shifter on one side anyway. Put this (or a Kindshock South Paw) out there in the shifter position and think of it as a shifter so your knees magically avoid it.
  • + 9
 yeah, and it's plastic, so just saw off the extra once you get the position situated.
  • + 24
 Yeah I don't get that. If you are hitting your knee off this then you are on the wrong size bike to start with...
  • + 9
 Maybe they have large knees?
  • + 5
 Then they'd need a large frame.
  • + 5
 And really large knee pads
  • + 0
 It's not about frame size, sometimes if you're riding really hard in rowdy terrain, your knee just hits the bars.
  • + 4
 ^ I can see that on really techy and steep loose climbs where you may slip out or end up in an awkward position while standing up, basically having most of your weight towards the front but I feel that in any other situation, you should never be in a position where your knees hit the bars. If you are, something is wrong whether its the frame size or riding style.
  • + 6
 Maybe they are doing tuck no handers or sweet barhumps?
  • + 1
 ^ I thought about including that, then thought not many do those with dropper posts... if they do, that means they're awesome.
  • + 1
 maybe a quadruple truck driver.
  • + 2
 I refer you to the last picture. Shifters are flat bottomed. This is a barrel with edges pointing back at your knees. Bars are wider and bikes are longer but when you go over the bars you still pass it.....
  • + 1
 @ilovedust at which point just jabbing your knee on the post is the best case scenario!
  • + 2
 When you've hauled on the bars to slam/hop up some waist high technical rocks, your knees or legs hit the bars sometimes, no reasonable sized frame is going to change that.
  • + 0
 @foghorn1 : In other words, you've found an edge case. A scenario where that may indeed be a problem. However, it's a scenario that's likely to happen to very few as most aren't hopping waist high rocks on XC or AM bikes.
  • + 24
 KS cable lever is still the best design.
  • + 1
 KS remote with an internally routed doss would be perfect
  • + 5
 Especially if you pair with a lock on grip to save space
  • + 6
 The grip lock combo is by far the best for my hand. I think lever position and style is like a helmet, more of personal preference.
  • + 5
 Oh look, Spam!
  • + 7
 haha @annnaruby I also make $30 over and over again. It's called a paycheck.
  • + 8
 anyone want free money? kill some spammers, I'll pay you
  • + 10
 Mods already got him. Thanks mods
  • + 3
 KS lever is like $50, no?
  • - 5
flag jojotherider1977 (May 19, 2015 at 9:47) (Below Threshold)
 I think the KS lever is probably the most useless piece ever... ...but that's only because my KS Lev spends more time not working than working. When its working, though, I think that lever is pretty neat especially with ODI grips. I don't know how other people feel about it, but I actually like the RS Reverb lever. Probably only because I haven't had any problems with that post.
  • + 5
 ^maybr you shouldn't be so hard on your shit... The reverb lever blows, it's not even a lever just a button!
  • + 11
 Agreed the Reverb lever does blow...never again, I've never had a single issue with my KS.
  • + 5
 i dunno. i replaced the KS lever with a crank bros remote which actually emulates a front shifter the best, and it has a good barrel adjuster. the extended reach and light action of the CB remote is much better than the oem KS, plus you can mount the CB in any position, left or right side, top or bottom:

www.bikerumor.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/2012-crank-brothers-kronolog-drop-seatpost4.jpg
  • + 4
 You're saying I shouldn't sit on my saddle while I'm on a long climb? The first ride I had it on, it started to sad and act like a suspension post. rebuilt it and was able to get a few rides in over the winter. Then the actuator line inside the post got stretched and the post wouldn't go down. I replaced that the other day and now it appears to be working, but I haven't taken it for a ride yet. I've probably only had 4-5 days riding on it (less than 20 hours I'd guess).

If I felt it was just an issue only I was having, then I wouldn't have made that comment. There's a 19 page thread over on mtbr with lots of other folks with the same issues. Plus if you look at a lot of the reviews online you'll see the same issues. Maybe it was the older versions, but I'm not the only one.

Like I said, I do like the lever. Its nice and small and easy to reach, especially when mounted on the grip. But when the post isn't working, who cars how nice the lever is. I've not had an issue with the Reverb button or post, so in my OPINION I like it.
  • + 2
 Cuban-b, when I first installed my KS I was too lazy about removing my Kronolog Remote and used it with my KS. It was awesome. But When I added the front shifter I had to lose it. I may try this though.
  • + 1
 you can install the CB remote above the front shifter. lets go to summit soon.
  • - 2
 Yeah jojo, I'm definitely saying you shouldn't sit down on a climb... Nail on the head... Putting words in people's mouth to make a point pretty much loses you all credibility.
  • + 2
 My point is that I'm not hard on a seat post. I sit on it. Even when I store it in the garage, I leave the seat fully extended so there's no additional pressure on the seals. I don't pick up the bike by the seat unless the post is fully extended.
  • + 1
 I've been doing the same setup for a few years now works great
  • + 2
 Jojo you're definately not alone, my ks is a piece of shit, it s been rebuilt twice already and hasn't seen that much use, my buddy had the same issues. When someone says they haven't had any issues with their ks I feel like they either don't use it enough, or they're lying, or they have amazing luck and got the 1 out of 100 ks posts that actually works
  • + 1
 @laerz I rebuilt my lev it was a tricky thing to get right even as an engineer. Had to find 1mm kevlar string for inside too. But had it over 2.5 years and it's still running great with just that one strip clean and regrease.
  • + 1
 I'm torn right now. One the one hand, I hope I have that same experience and it lasts. On the other hand, I kind of want to sell it now that its working. I just think it'll be a case of the grass always being greener. There's always the potential for issues no matter what hydraulic adjustable post you're looking at.
  • + 12
 When I bought my Reverb Stealth, I did what loads of people do and bought the RH lever so I could mount it the other way up on the left side. keeps it out of the way, easy to reach and doesn't clutter my bar. What I really want, is for suspension companies (or anyone else who has the know-how) to create retrofitted front derailleur shifters that adjust fork and shock settings. I have a Float X CTD, and the lever to adjust that looks like it was made for Sloth from the Goonies to swing off. It's massive and hideous. Why can't they just offer a shifter pod style lever, where the normal triple position changes the CTD!?
  • + 2
 my buddy demo'd a scott spark 700 this weekend that has stuff, they are calling it twinloc level system. didn't look too cluttered on the handlebars and he really seemed to like it.
  • + 5
 Look at it: p.vitalmtb.com/photos/stories/2013/06/04/max_Remote_575409.jpg?1370405509
It's gross. I don't want that anywhere near my Rune.
  • + 0
 That twinloc will break in days mounted that high up, what are they thinking?
  • + 1
 Supposedly, Di2 has built in capability designed to do exactly what you want, including dropping a dropper post. Haven't seen it in the wild yet, though. Twinloc is a standard DT swiss part, works on any bike with DT Swiss front & back. Scott just specs it stock, since they buy a custom shock from DT already.
  • + 5
 Just open up a front derailleur trigger shifter and remove the springs and the ratchet.
  • + 13
 We put a probe on an asteroid, and can't come up with better MTB control ergonomics...?
  • + 8
 Someone on Singletrackworld forums is making bling CNC machined ones singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/thomson-remote-adaptors-are-go
  • + 3
 Well, if nothing else, that one is far sexier.
  • + 3
 That'll be me :-)
  • + 4
 @deesta well done! Really nice work. Been following the thread and really wanting one but I just spent my last bike budget cash on a Thomson dropper Smile . Maybe next month if there'll be another batch.
  • + 1
 @deesta, got any left ?
  • + 1
 @pigman65 no, all gone but looking to do another batch if there's enough interest
  • + 1
 I can't find or see the picture in the link.
  • + 2
 Have a look at the link in the 1st post on the link above :-)
  • + 5
 If the designers did it properly in the first place then we would not need these add on aftermarket products. I mean..they can engineer up complicated shock internals and clever frame designs but cant design a simple ergonomic lever! frustrates the hell out of me!
  • + 1
 Two wildly different fields of engineering though. Even Specialized essentially just copied SRAMs lever for that new one.
  • + 1
 Studiotran is right. If the entire industry can produce boost and + bikes to their lineup in one season, They can make better dropper remotes the season after everybody ditched the front derailleur. It's an opportunity missed by almost all the big players. This product is goofy and clunky, and won't stand the test of time. Their time would've been better spent making an actual lever, that matches the feel of sram or shimano, or both.
  • + 4
 I know everybody loves to hate the Big Red S but that is exactly what they did this season. They made an under the bar 'shifter' style dropper control. Works great. Sram too....
  • + 4
 We felt vindicated when Spez's new remote came out- it was almost as though their original lever was designed to be turned on its side. It's super-clean with SRAM brakes (or Shimano brakes and Problem Solvers Matchmaker mounts).
  • + 5
 Under the category K.I.S.S (keep it simple stupid). This is a win. On the right setup, in the correct fashion.
Also can foresee MANY other uses (not just banging your knee) for this.
  • + 4
 Thanks BBP!
  • + 5
 why not simply use a LH shifter, everyone has one of these kicking around so it would be free and lower profile for the knee.
  • + 27
 I knee'd one of these..
  • + 4
 Yup. Just take out the return spring on the shifter. Job done. I dig the name of this product tho. Lindarets is the valley between Morzine and Chatel. It's got some rad trail of it's own.
  • + 2
 That's our iffy
  • + 1
 this is what I have. It works well, and is kinda matchy-matchy with the rear shifter on the other side of the bars. repurpose your abandoned front shifters and move on
  • + 8
 That was actually our starting point- wanting the remote to sit where the shifter does/did. Unfortunately, the shifter hack doesn’t work with Thomson (or Giant) remotes, as their cable barrel is at the post end and not everyone has a shifter that they’re willing to hack.

We ended up with the current design as it allows the user to put the remote right where the shifter paddle once was, accommodates most of the cable-actuated posts on the market, and doesn’t require new cable/housing/etc.- it really is a quick install.

The shifter hack is a good one- but we feel like we captured all of its benefits while adding some of our own.
  • + 2
 the more you know... (da da da-dahhhhhhhh and that shooting star shoots by)

I used an old X9 shifter. It's silver and bigger than the black xx1 shifter on the other side. It's only matchy-matchy in that it's SRAM. That's enough for me, but I'm not mad at the one pictured. Definitely way better than anything on top of a bar.
  • + 2
 The old cb lever is the best thing ever: you can mount it left right on top or below the handlebar and it releases the dropper post no matter if you draw or push it. Plus it works perfect with my ks post for years. images.singletracks.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/picture-62.jpg
  • + 2
 If you all have front shifters laying around not being used do this: www.pinkbike.com/photo/12251944

It's super clean, the action works great. It doesn't alter how you should position your hand to get at the lever. I use it on a command post for both my bikes. Works awesome.

Tip: XX shifters and newer styles don't work.

the instructions are here: www.vitalmtb.com/features/How-To-Connect-Your-Dropper-Post-to-Shimano-or-SRAM-Front-Shifter,839
  • + 1
 @RichardCunningham. I have been running a Southpaw for a while now Richard. It has not slipped once and I didn't have to get all caveman on it to get it to stay in place (tightened it proper, but no damage), so I would recommend them. Very adjustable and look very nice too... www.pinkbike.com/photo/12192880
Cost me£30...not cheap but then if I'm willing to pay out for a new Thomson dropper post £30 for something that works very well and doesn't make me paranoid (the Thomson remote is just horrible!) is well worth it.
My riding style is very rowdy, Southpaw slippage = zero.
  • + 2
 Unless you have old-school narrow bars, it sits pretty far outside. I thought the same, but never whacked my knee - although I will probably cut it to fit after I experiment with various positions.
  • + 2
 X-fusion's lever can be run any direction. Once I went 1x10, I turned the mount to the bottom of the handlebar, like this:
p.vitalmtb.com/photos/users/109/photos/74757/s780_seaotter_pits_14.jpg?1397683597
  • + 2
 The X-fusion lever is the same as the original Maverick Speedball and CB Joplin levers....
  • + 1
 I modified a SRAM X9 last year by removing two of the detents and trimmed the downshift to a nub to use as an ergonomic dropper lever on my X-Fusion. Working like a charm over the past year!! This is nothing "new". Save your money, use your old front derailleur shifter and do it yourself in 15 minutes. I'll show you how...
  • + 4
 First the Togs now Mini-barends ?
  • + 2
 Exactly, why not just cut down a bar end, plastic end plug in the end, job done. I'm sure there's plenty of old barends just lying around doing nothing these days?
  • + 0
 In fancy colors also. And they come in pairs... have multiple bikes with droppers or a buddy who runs a dropper also and complains about where the remote is? Find a pair of bar ends you like and split the price between you.
  • + 2
 Jimo,

Not a bad idea, but you'd be surprised at how close the bar diameter has to be to 22.2mm for certain remotes to clamp properly- we had some protos come in .5mm undersized (which translates to ~1.5mm in circumference) and the Thomson clamps would bottom out before tightening.
  • + 3
 I like the idea. Many of these remotes have such terrible non-ergonomic designs.. Plus the price is reasonable too.
  • + 2
 Mattin, Thanks! We're trying to build stuff in the first world at prices that make sense- so far, so good!
  • - 1
 Because the fact that these things called BAR ENDS already existed and being out of fashion are now dirt cheap to find on ebay apparently is too simple an idea... or better yet any of the adapters that are made to fit extra lights/computers to a cluttered up bar. Like the Issimo Design Nob and Nob XL (its longer)...

www.ebay.com/itm/Issimo-Design-Nob-Universal-Handlebar-Computer-Mount-Bracket-Aero-Bar-Black-/280934398999?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4168febc17

or profile designs universal computer bar mount...

www.ebay.com/itm/Profile-Design-Universal-Computer-Mount-/301631782621?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item463aa7bedd

Which work exactly the same way, cost less, and are already out there in the marketplace and in fact many local bike stores will likely stock them, especially ones that sell fancy schmancy road bikes.
  • + 1
 deeeight,

We did play with the Profile a bit- but it's not designed to stay put with the amount of force a dropper remote (especially one with an old or dry cable) can exert. They're also centered on the bar, which means that the remote sits closer to the rider than is ideal. Their mounting system is tidy, though...
  • + 3
 The KS Southpaw already does this better.
  • + 3
 ^ if slipping on the bar is a plus, then yes.
  • + 1
 Mtnr, it does? I wanted one to replace the oem ks lever before reading you comment.
  • + 3
 AiTHORX, no issues whatsoever with my southpaw on an aluminum bar. I much prefer the southpaw over the oem...
  • + 1
 Yeah no issues slipping whatsoever, even on tapered bars.
  • + 6
 FWIW: Mtnr isn't the only person I've seen complain about the southpaw moving, & the design of the clamp sure doesn't fill me with confidence. Do some googling, look what problems people are having, before you drop chedda.
  • + 2
 We like the KS Southpaw a lot- but (slipping aside) it doesn't work with droppers that have the barrel at the post end- and costs twice as much. Before choosing Delrin, which will do a better job of protecting handlebars, we considered a polished alloy version- I'm a sucker for shiny things.
  • + 1
 Fair enough, the KS is definitely on the expensive side for what you get but we have never experienced any of these issues. It's great to see options for under the bar shifter style.
  • + 7
 Just tested a bike with the KS Southpaw - had to smack it with a hammer to re-shape the clamp in order to keep it from slipping and rotating away from my thumb. If KS made vacuum cleaners, I would be very interested.
  • + 1
 Had to put a strip of sand paper between the clamp and cut small grooves into the clamp itself to get enough grip and tighten it so much I was getting worried that I'd crush the Dam bar. Stays put now. It's just because of the smooth finish of carbon bars and the clamp combined. But as far as function and looks, it brilliant. I'd still buy one. Standard ks stuby levers are horrible.
  • + 1
 I'm curious why you didn't put this info as a review? Comparing the remount to other similar brands would be useful to the consumer would it not?
  • + 1
 I run a KS LEV with a southpaw lever on renthal carbon bars mounted with carbon paste , I have ZERO problem with it slipping......
100% better to use than the old reverb i had which broke.......
  • + 1
 pedro46: Does it make difference that carbon paste on a carbon fatbar? I have slippery problems with my brake levers (Avid) too. I solved them tightening the lever clamps more than i would like to do...
  • + 1
 Or worse your standing and pedaling flat-out and shorts get hung up on that thing....
  • + 6
 Done that with Reverb remote mounted under bars - 70$ for remote, 15$ for plaster and iodine
  • + 9
 Lycra ftw
  • + 1
 I'm chuffed with my thonson dropper lever. Its fricking tiny!! does the job.
  • + 1
 Brilliant. I just ordered mine. Can't wait to keep my thumb below the bar at all times with my KS remote.
  • + 2
 Ugly. The Spesh Command Post SRL looks way better ...
  • + 1
 plus it works with SRAM's MatchMaker...
  • - 3
 Those 3 clamps in a row makes me want to punch whoever did it in the face.
  • + 1
 Just looked on their website, anyone know why it isn't recommended for reverb?
  • + 1
 The Reverb is a hydraulic dropper post, that's why.
  • + 1
 Crank bros kronolog lever works great people. Doesn't cost a lot and is similar to a shifter
  • + 3
 genius!
  • + 1
 UBBER shite compared to the ks southpaw
  • + 1
 I mount my dropper remote conveniently on the RD anyway
  • + 1
 They should make this mount to an I-Spec lever.
  • + 1
 Hmm...
  • + 2
 I got one printing currently on my makerbot. Smile
  • - 1
 As a reverb owner I might be oblivious to such a need but this looks like a knee injury waiting to happen.
  • + 6
 So you must run a ss to avoid whacking your knee on your shifter?
  • + 1
 Smart idea !
  • - 1
 Then say congrats to Specialized.
  • - 3
 Who the hell would actually want that monstrosety pointing directly at their knee, c'mon PB, not even a mention despite how stupid it looks?!
  • + 0
 REVERB
  • - 1
 Things sticking out from handlebars...painful. Still a stupid idea.
  • - 1
 My knee got bruised just looking at it!
  • - 4
flag waxyfeet (May 19, 2015 at 5:20) (Below Threshold)
 Wear kneepads
  • + 8
 Since it us plastic you could just trim it flush once you find the position you like.
  • + 2
 I think if you trim the end off you lose the integral end cap, the structural integrity of the tube will be compromised and it might just crush when you tighten the clamp of the remote. Kinda like soft fleshy bits with a hose clamp around it. Not recommended.
  • + 7
 Orangesicle, You're OK to trim the end of the ReMount- it's not a tube and can be cut to length without compromising the stub. Just cut using a standard guide and knock the sharp edges off with a file.
  • + 2
 It is definitely not a tube, you can see how it is molded. Good idea and pretty cheap.
  • + 2
 Awesome customer service already! Sorry. My Bad. I can see the structure clearly. As much as I love cnc aluminum bits, this is a well thought out problem solver. Nice.
  • + 4
 Orangesicle,

You bet! I'm with you on the shiny bits- and there will be more metal from us before long. CNC would actually have been a lot easier (and probably a little cheaper) for us- but I just wasn't thrilled with the possibility of scoring a carbon bar inboard of the grip. Delrin is pretty bomber, good to stupid-cold temps, and is a lot more friendly to the bar.
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