Polygon's new Collosus N9 first emerged in all its
urban camo painted glory at Sea Otter this year, complete with the IFS suspension layout first seen on the Mt. Bromo eMTB. The bike has 29” wheels front and rear (it's not mixed-wheel compatible), and 170mm of travel. After a season of enduro racing and refining it's now available, with an aluminum frame and a $3,299 price tag that stands out in stark contrast to the ultra-expensive carbon machines that have been released lately.
For the price, Polygon have put together a great parts package. Suspension is handled by a Fox 38 Performance fork with a Grip damper, and 230 x 65mm Float X2 shock. SRAM Code R brakes with 200mm rotors help keep speeds in check, and Shimano takes care of the shifting via an XT derailleur, Deore cassette, and XT cranks. Unfortunately, those cranks are 175mm long, which may not be ideal for riders in rockier terrain. 2.6” wide Schwalbe Magic Mary tires are mounted up onto Entity rims that have a 35mm internal width.
Collosus N9 Details • Wheel size: 29"
• Travel: 170 mm
• Aluminum frame
• 63.5º head angle
• 77º seat tube angle
• 435 mm chainstays
• Sizes: S - XL
• Weight: 39.25 lb / 17.8 kg (size L)
• Price: $3,299 USD
•
polygonbikes.com All of that adds up to a not-insignificant 39.25 pounds (17.8 kg) – Collosus seems like a very fitting name given those numbers.
Frame Details The Collosus' frame is visibly stout; everything from the forward shock mount to the double-braced swingarm make it look like it was built to take a beating. All of those links and the shock position do take up some precious water bottle real estate, which means that only a 'regular' sized bottle will fit in the front triangle. Still, it's better than nothing. There's also no in-frame storage or any accessory mounts to be seen. Another feature that's missing is a universal derailleur hanger, something that's likely to become more of a 'must have' if the rumors about SRAM's next generation drivetrain are true.
There is a ribbed chainstay protector, although it's a little short – further coverage towards the front of the chainstay would help keep the paint from being chipped by the chain. The brake, derailleur, and dropper lines are routed internally, although there isn't really anything inside the frame to keep them from rattling around - thankfully, I didn't notice too much noise on my test bike.
It is nice to see that the Collosus is spec'd with a chain guide and a bash guard, since crunching a chainring is a good way to put a damper on a race run. There's also frame protection on the underside of the downtube to keep it safe from flying rocks or truck tailgates.
Geometry Most of the Collosus' geometry numbers are right in line with what's become the norm for this category. The head angle sits at a slack, 63.5-degrees with a 170mm fork, the reach is 480mm for a size large, and the seat tube angle is 77-degrees. The chainstays are on the shorter side at 435mm across the board – they don't change with each size, a practice that more and more companies are adopting.
Suspension Design Polygon seem to have an affinity for suspension designs that are a little different from the norm – there was the wild-looking floating dual-link FS3 design
back in 2014, and the even more out-there aesthetic of the
SquareOne EX9 with its R3ACT suspension in 2017. The Collosus keeps the trend alive, although the overall look likely won't be as polarizing as those other two examples.
It uses a version of the IFS (Independent Floating Suspension) design first seen on Polygon's Mt. Bromo eMTB. The concept is that the two lower counter-rotating short links can be used to dictate the axle path, while the seatstays and rocker link are used to adjust the leverage curve, or how much progression there is. All those links may make it easier for designers to achieve the suspension characteristics they want, but it also means there are 16 cartridge bearings to keep track of, and the lowermost set of bearings are directly in front of the rear wheel, right where mud and dirt will end up on a sloppy ride.
The anti-squat percentages are fairly high, sitting around 121% at sag before gradually dropping off as the bike goes through its travel. The scaling of the chart makes the progression look fairly extreme, but in reality it's around 19%, which is fairly typical for a longer travel enduro bike.
Ride ImpressionsTo anyone who says that weight doesn't matter, I encourage you to take the Collosus out for a spin. I've spent plenty of time – years, really – pedaling around bikes in the 40-pound range, and I'm far from being a weight weenie, but I'll admit that it's a little harder to muster up the motivation to get out on a long pedal on a bike this heavy. Who knows, maybe I'm just getting soft.
Yes, I realize the Collosus isn't some crazy expensive, carbon fiber wonder bike, and I'm willing to cut it a little slack in the weight department considering its price tag and solid parts kit, but 39 pounds is still pretty chunky. I can't help but wonder how much weight and complication would have been saved by going with a tried-and-true Horst Link layout, rather than sticking on the links required for the IFS suspension layout?
Weight aside, the Collosus
does pedal well, especially for a bike with 170mm of travel. The suspension is calm enough that I didn't feel the need to flip the Float X2's climb switch, and even on longer fire road grinds I was perfectly content keeping it in the open position. The chainstays are on the shorter side of the spectrum, but the steep seat angle and slack head angle work together to help keep the bike from feeling like it wants to loop out on steep climbs. Even though it's a fairly substantial, slack bike, I didn't find it to be overly difficult to maneuver through tighter switchbacks or more technical sections – it's really the slow rolling tires and overall heft that give it a more subdued feel when heading uphill.
When it comes time to descend, the Collosus isn't the fastest out of the gate, but it feels very solid and ready for anything once it's up to speed. The back end is quite stiff, and that trait combined with the shorter chainstays makes it easy to snap the rear wheel in and out of tight turns, although that does come with slightly reduced traction and stability – at times it felt like the Collosus' rear wheel was more likely to slide through a turn rather than carve a clean arc. It also doesn't have the plushest, most fluttery suspension feel; it'll take the edge off the rough stuff, it just doesn't erase those bigger hits in the same way that some other bikes in this travel bracket do.
Overall, the Collosus N9 delivers a great value when it comes to the parts spec, and the geometry isn't going to hold it back as long as you keep it pointed down steeper, more technical trails. The weight is the biggest downside, although that might not be much of a concern for riders who spend most of their time climbing inside a shuttle vehicle or sitting on a chairlift.
@mininhi:
Still this seems like a great deal these days for the build on it. Could probably drop a little over a pound with wheels and tires when they die/blow up.
Poly all gon
Your positive comments will throw off the algorithm, the site will lose sponsors cuz people can’t find the place and some Mountain Bike Billionare will have to save it from itself in a futile attempt to regain its bike-hate speech superiority ! Exclamation point!
Premium bikes have gone beyond 10k, yet if you buy one you need to replace the piss weak light tyres before you can even use it for its intended purpose.
flowmountainbike.com/tests/polygon-collosus-n9-review-2023/#:~:text=A%20big%20contributor%20is%20the,kg%2C%20including%20the%20Float%20X2.
1 - The cost of expensive and (usually) light bikes with fancy components. Or
2- The weight of reasonably priced bike (with cheaper components) in comparison t the expensive bikes (that they whined about yesterday).
If someone released a reasonably priced, reliable Enduro bike for under $4k that weighed under 35lb then the people on here would explode!
We aren't that easy to placate/destroy. It would have the wrong leverage curve, chainstay length, seat tube angle, hub width standard, rotor diameter, cable routing, destroying the planet, be out of stock and not sold in an lbs near me. That is even before said unicorn bike is even made, i will add to the list once released.
But the main point is that no bike in the 35-40 range will pedal uphill well. Down good, although weight is never good, but up? That weight range is where e-MTB like the just released Orbea Wild are getting close to. Something seems quite off.
@MutleyAdams: my Ibis HD3 160/150 with DVO Topaz/Diamond seats happily at 28 pounds (with pedals). And I could run the Diamond at 170. Plenty bike for my 68Kg weight.
Stop complaining it’s heavy ffs it’s cheap and sorted
Looks good on paper, except for the weight.
Also, did no one tell Polygon that word is actually spelled Colossus, not Collosus? They spelled it wrong.
There is no advantage to the customer of a proprietary suspension layout. You can achieve a pretty similar suspension kinematic with a bunch of different layouts.
Screw them.
Time for geometry on this style and weight of bike to be based around a 26-28t front ring, and 10-42t rear cassette.
"That $10,000 bike is too expensive, why don't you review bikes that are more reasonably priced bikes????"
Also Pinkbike
"That $3600 bike is too heavy, doesn't have a Grip2 damper, and that Deore drive train is too heavy, and the linkage is too complicated"
J/k, I love the ESD with 490 reach and a the stays slammed at 471. Yes, it would ride differently if they stays were 450mm. No, I wouldn't like it as much that way.
The BaLaNcEd ChAiNsTaYs gang is probably the most annoying contingent on this site. They remind me of the guys that were sure plus tires were the future a few years ago. Lots of overly complicated explanations for why their personal preference is that only correct way to build a bike. The world already has one Paul Aston...
Also, providing axle path and anti rise would have been nice to be able to see how much of an actual benefit those two links provide compared to a single pivot with likage or a faux-bar.
I had a DD Assegai on the rear once, never again. Going with a little less tire made such a difference! Just swap out the Magic Mary in the rear for a start.
The launch video is full of fun vibes. Epic video. Check the link below if you don't believe me.
m.pinkbike.com/news/video-polygon-launches-2023-collosus-n9.html
If you spend all day riding bikes, trying different components, someone of average intelligence should realize that something was wrong with those colossal cranks.
I actually think 172.5mm cranks are even more ideal because, you know, they have the best of the other two.
**tongue in cheek alert
Frame ALX AM/ENDURO 160mm TRAVEL
Fork FOX 38 FLOAT PERFORMANCE ELITE, 170mm TRAVEL
Rear Shock FOX FLOAT X2, E2E: 205x65mm
Shifter SHIMANO XT SL-M8100-R 12-SPEED TRIGGER
Crank Set SHIMANO XT FC-M8100-1 32T, MAX CHAIN RING: 36T, CRANK ARM: 170mm
Cassette SHIMANO DEORE CS-M6100 12-SPEED 10-51T
Rear Derailleur SHIMANO XT RD-M8100-SGS 12-SPEED
Wheel Set ENTITY XL3 TUBELESS READY
Tire SCHWALBE MAGIC MARY EVO 29"x2.60" 622x65 SUPER GRAVITY TLE ADDIX SOFT
Brake Lever SRAM CODE R
Brake Caliper SRAM CODE R HYDRAULIC DISC
Rotor SRAM CENTERLINE 200mm CL
I haven't looked it up on their site, but sometimes their sizes have different prices too.
RAAW has the Madonna at 3.9kg. A boutique Reeb Sqweeb in Large is 3.77kg without shock. Hopefully suggests the Poly can take a beating.
Also, is that seatstay brace removable? Could it be another tuning option as seen on the frameworks bikes (might fix that stiff rear end)?
It may also be a wordplay on the Italian word "Colle" which means mountain pass. The same word means 'glue' in French so it would be an awesome name for a bonded bike.
The anti-squat curves are a lot more compressed than the y-axis scale on the anti-squat graph makes it look. And anyway, falling anti-squat as you go down the cassette is a positive characteristic, right?
If you believe polygon's graph, it actually has the most AS in the 10t. The line below that is the 51t. Then the others below that are in the mid cassette. I'm assuming it's a mistake, but.
Just because the axle path is defined by a four bar loop in a six bar linkage doesn't change the fact that there are six bars in the linkage.
You're arguing against a general engineering term that is not specific to bikes and has been defined for hundreds of years.
Can you call it a single pivot with a linkage actuated shock? Sure. You can also call it a four bar linkage.
Not quite sure when a bunch of mountain bikers got it in their heads that "four bar" = a virtual pivot, but I think it's because everyone equates it with horst link. But pretty much everything is a four bar design. Horst. DW link. VPP. Delta. Split Pivot. Maestro. Saracen bikes, Kona bikes, and whatever else. The only things that aren't are two-bar designs like Orange, weird shit with flex pivots which you often can't define as having bar elements, and 6 bar designs, whether the axle path is controlled by all six bars (commencal supreme, felt, atherton, yeti ebike) or whether four are used to control the axle and brake with two more used to actuate the shock (this, knolly).
If I was specifically talking about the four bar part of the linkage system that relates the axle and rear brake to the main frame in isolation, and referred to just that part as a six bar, then sure, shoot me. But even if it wasn't originally clear, I was talking about the entire linkage system which has six f*cking bars in it and so I will call it a 6 bar linkage if I want.
Also, if it's about the bars in the system, we're sooner or later have a 10bar system. Because marketing.
If makes sense to call the system by the number of bars the rear axle needs to not flop around in the space as that determines a lot of suspension characteristics. Additional bars for the shock only tune (and decouple) the shock characteristic.
I mean, yeah, technically you're correct. It is 6bar. I'm not arguing that in the slightest. But the majority of people don't agree that it's a 6bar (me included) for consistency's and clarity's sake. If you're willing to die on this hill, go ahead. It looks like it will be a lonely graveyard.
The Hans Dampfs weigh 1150g each vs the Magic Marys on the N9 which are 1370g so that's another pound, plus the rims probably weigh a bit more as they are i35 vs i30 on the T8, so you're starting with possibly a 14lbs wheel setup.
Nukeproof Horizon V2 wheelset with 2.4WT DHR2 MaxxTerras would weigh a little over 9lbs, so a 4-5lbs weight reduction for ~$500.
The stock wheels are boat anchors, I just haven't pulled the trigger on swapping them out yet.
Thinking people need to spend 5 grand to go on a bike ride is ridiculous.
There is a reason, why my heavy upgraded Fuji Auric (17 kg) pedals way better, than a top of the line Specialized Demo.
I say, as someone with a huge riding group of people with many different kinds of bikes, who let me test ride most of them, that for the average Mountainbiker, weight does not realistically matter. The 20 seconds I will gain on my climb for a kilogram less, is simply not worth the price. Yes I was simplifying a lot with my original comment, but I will maintain, that weight doesn't matter (for most of us).
That being said, this bike does trade unnecessary complication for higher weight, which is not great.
Really? baring a couple like the Mega... 19% is looow for an enduro bike thats actually considerd good.
Looking at EWS bikes for eg The much loved altitude is 40%... While other brands are using stuff to make their bikes more progressive I refuse to buy a bike under 21-23 ish progression as they always lack something and the suspension is a compromise of nice small bump vs big hits
While i realise the EVO isnt marketed as an enduro bike but its a perfect example, 19%, you chose big hit and support or small bump and no support/big hit... add a progressive link(cascade) and it transforms the bike.
I dont want mediocre performance after ive had to get stuff custom tuned, i want the best, Medium-high progression with a std shock Will give you the best of each side of "the middle feeling"
I've spent serious time and money on understanding Rear shock performance in relation to frame kenematics. Everything doesnt have to be a compromise...
People can continue to downvote all they like - Go ride a Altitude or bikes like the spectral with high Progression - Then tell me they arent better.
Funny isnt it though, Orange had to change their bike to not ride like rubbish regardless of shock.
It's the same with forks. All those guys who are running 30% sag then 78 volume tokens are not fast.
for 40% being so bad its funny as all the reviewers and racers love it, It's the choice of many once theyve ridden it but the price tag keeps them away.
I sold my Altitude and its for sure one of the dumbest MTB choices ive made.
What about the mega vs giga? The giga is considerably more progressive an many say it does everything better than the mega...
Ill take better Small bump, strong mid stroke with tunable bottom out over a never perfect always compromise 15-24% ish setup.
If you dont weigh over 60kg then sure , take your low progression lol
Its been mentioned by many on the DH scene including in several Fox videos from jordi.
Hey look, Go argue with the suspension guys, all the tuners etc.
I can bet you anything ive had more experience with suspension setup since i started testing a heap 2 years ago .
Weight hugely effects suspension, More soo when you start getting over like 210 ish pounds
2 people, 1 at 80kg vs 1 at 110kg... ask my fat ass how i know personally that weight effects it.
There is no reason the mass being decelerated should influence the amount of progression required to decelerate it in a given space, if the starting forces are balanced equally (eg, the same static sag). Unless you can explain why you think that relatively simple bit of physics is incorrect, then you are just blowing hot air.
And btw, I argue with suspension guys and tuners all day every day. It's my job.
If I am correct some bike companies (Cannondale ?) start to account for difference in weight in their bikes, the smaller sizes having less progression that the larger sizes as those are expected to be ridden by lighter riders that inherently won't need so much progression and would have to ride 40% SAG to get all the travel in a progressive setup.
So to get back to the original debate, unless you are very heavy or exceptionally fast, you don't really need more than 20% progression. If you weight 110kg I can see why you think only high progression suspension work but you are not the norm so you can't take you case and make broad statement based on a very rare situation.