What do Rapid Rise and Dual Control have in common? Yes, they're both from the same drivetrain giant, and they're both long dead, but that's not what I'm getting at here; I could also include pedals with their bearings in the crank arms, those old THE Eliminator rims, and even downhill racers wearing skin suits on this list. The answer is that all of those things either never caught on or earned nearly universal disdain when they were released to the always (understandably) cynical riding public. Oh, and they also share something else: each one either had or has merit and real reasons to exist, too. Yeah, even Dual Control.
Why did it go down like that? You might say that it's because another common trait is that they're also shitty ideas, but I'm going to argue that while none of them were executed all that well in hindsight, the concepts behind each were all very sound.
One of the main reasons that none of those things stuck around, I believe, is that their benefits were either not widely understood, never explained in an easy to grasp way, or straight-up ignored. They had some issues, no doubt about it, but each one also had logical reasons to stick around... yet they went the way of bar-ends and URTs.
There's a good chance that you don't believe me, which is fair, but let me make my case before the flaming pitchforks come out.
Skin suits for downhillers? This one is easy. Hello, their only goal should be to get from point A to point B ASAP, and the ol' sausage suit makes all the sense in the world. Even amateur ski racers slip on the spandex for the relatively slow-speed slalom events, unconcerned with how the world views them because they know that skin tight = fast because science and stuff. I wonder how often the average amateur downhill racer considers aerodynamics? I'm only one-third serious; I don't expect any downhiller to actually want to wear a skin suit, but it's one example of how we're just fine snubbing something regardless of its advantages.
Skin suits aren't ''cool,'' but there are good reasons for wearing one. Long Nguyen photo.
And we all know where pedal bearings belong, right? Certainly not in the pedals but rather the crankarms so they can be larger and more reliable, thereby allowing axles to be made larger and strong enough to withstand even the great
Chris Glew case of Kranked 5. Even better, the axles could bugger off entirely if the bearings moved shop to the cranks. Variations have been made and tested, yet here we are with bearings from a freaking RC car - no joke - inside of our pedals. I believe that this is down to one of two things: either the crank and pedal people are ignoring it, or, kinda understandably, they're nervous to invest in a design that would call for a pretty noteworthy addition to the always crowded and widely derided ''new standard'' shark tank.
The concept makes way, way more sense than the crap we're using now, so one of you companies needs to man-up and get 'er done already.
Thinner pedals and larger bearings... it just makes sense. Ashworth photo.
Skin suits make sense. Pedal bearings becoming crank bearings make sense. Rapid Rise and Dual Control... make sense? You betcha they do, but these two received a mostly frosty response all around when debuted, at least partly because their advantages were never explained well enough for most of us to look past the glaringly obvious disadvantages.
I know more about knitting sweaters out of cat hair than I do about marketing, but given the often bewildering approach that some companies take when debuting a new product, not even a numbskull like me needs a crystal ball to predict the angry mob that forms mere seconds after the news breaks. Worse yet, sometimes the product in the line of fire truly does makes a lot of sense but the message was lost in translation or, even more worse, coated in slime when that's actually the last thing it needed.
Let's look at Rapid Rise first, the derailleur that everyone hated back in the 90s when it was first debuted, and then got to hate again with renewed vigor when it showed up in Shimano's high-end drivetrains in the early 2000s.
Shimano's Rapid Rise derailleurs made sense mechanically, but asking people to reverse their burnt-in shifting method meant that it was never going to stick around long. C2winter Photo.
What's not to like about it? Well, it worked in reverse compared to everything else back then and still to this day; if you un-clamped the shift cable, the spring would force the derailleur up to the largest cog, which is the opposite of what the derailleur that's on your bike right now will do. The shift cable actually pulled it down to smaller cogs/higher gears which is, once again, the opposite of your derailleur. I understand the hate, I really do. If some all-seeing, all-knowing, omnipotent prankster decided that left is right and right is left, I'd be so f*cked given that it's taken me thirty-seven-years to learn that left is left and right is right. But back to shifting. Factor in steering and pedaling a bike, mud, rocks, roots, along with my newborn calf level of coordination, and there's a high probability that I'd lose my marbles over Rapid Rise if it forced was upon me tomorrow. The comment section would feel my all caps locked wrath, I tell you what.
But it's a damn good idea.
Shimano isn't stupid. Far from it, and, at least technically, Rapid Rise made loads of sense. Because the derailleur's spring wanted to pull it up to larger cogs/lower gears, shift action in this direction could be made smoother and with less effort, especially when asking for an easier gear under load on a steep climb like we're not supposed to do. That same spring could easily overcome your ratty, three-year-old contaminated shift housing, and the pulling of the cable to shift the opposite direction accomplished the same thing. Also, if your shift cable snapped, you'd be stuck in an easier gear rather than one that makes sense for land speed record attempt. Sign me up.
But you can't ask us to relearn how to shift, Shimano. You just can't. Aaaaaand they did exactly that, with predictable results. Rapid Rise, while making much more sense than David Icke's lizard people philosophy, probably had fewer riders who believed in it than people who believe that bipedal reptiles are currently running the world from beneath the Denver airport. Seriously. It also makes more sense than how our derailleurs work today, but a wholesale change in how we use our fingers was never going to fly with the riding public. The same goes for Dual Control, which was Shimano's idea to turn the brake lever into a dual-action shift lever. At the risk of being run off the line, this was also a really sound idea if you lean more towards fitness than flying through the air. And before you type out ''HAVE U USED THAT CRAP?!!!!' in the comment section, the answer is yes, a lot.
When brake levers are also shift levers. Granted, these were never a good idea if you were doing much more than cross-country racing, but they were damn clever. Balfasoldier photo.
C'mon, Shimano, what'd you expect? I don't have a white belt in marketing, but even I know that there was little chance of Rapid Rise and (the complicated and expensive) Dual Control taking off, regardless of some advantages for certain styles of riding. In fact, it's probably one of the lesser reasons that SRAM got the foothold it did around this time - riders wanted a high-end drivetrain that operated how they were used to, and SRAM wisely chose to keep left as left and right as right.
So, the question is: where'd Shimano go wrong? The merits of both systems were steamrolled by hate, and therefore no one was about to re-learn how to operate their thumbs and pointer fingers in battle, understandably. Because change can be a real piss-off when it comes across as dogmatic and uncalled for, there shouldn't be any surprise to see how Rapid Rise's merits were quickly buried in hostility.
No flats, no pool noodle foam. THE's Eliminator rim was ahead of its time, but changing a tire could turn into a real war if you didn't have the technique down. Karlbr151 photo.
The most glaring example has to be that neato THE Eliminator rim that was released back in 2006. Designed by ex-racer Toby Henderson, the rim employed a raised PVC center section that kept the tire, rim, and tube (this was before tubeless was a thing) safe from being damaged. Sound familiar? Yeah, that's because Henderson's rim used the same principles that all those expensive foam tire inserts do today, but in a completely integrated package.
It wasn't a perfect system; getting a tire on or off the rim was a heinous task that could make you give up mountain biking altogether but, as the name suggests, they essentially eliminated the majority of flat tire issues.
Mr. Henderson was about a decade ahead of his time with that idea, but the promise of improved reliability and being able to run lighter weight tires and tubes clearly wasn't lost on everyone - now we're doing the same thing by stuffing over-priced pieces of pool noodles inside our tires. It makes me wonder how Toby's rim would have panned out had the idea stuck around long enough to be refined properly.
Skinsuits on downhill racers, bearing-less pedals, Rapid Rise, Dual Control, and THE Eliminator rims are all ideas that, at least technically, make sense. I'll happily concede that some or none of those might not make one iota of sense to you right now, but the idea behind each is sound. Regardless, they were let down because they were either poorly explained (by the brands or the media, including us) or simply weren't refined enough to stick around.
Can you think of any other examples of products that, while maybe not being ready for prime time out of the gate, should have stuck around longer than they did?
It’s an article I want to seee on pinkbike.
@mikelevy I think I see where you are going with this.... Currently you are riding a Zerode. The sexy carbon wunderbike with a 12 speed gearbox and outstanding rear suspension (due to the lack of unsprung weight). But there are two buts and they are biggies .... It has a twist shifter and you can't change down under load. You love the idea of the gearbox but can't stand the shifter and not being able to change down under load.
Hence it got you thinking, what other great inventions have died that actually made sense. I think deep down you love the idea of gearboxes but see them going the same way as Rapid Rise etc.
So the only valid point is the shifter, and it can't be so hard to desing a trigger where both paddles pull the cables, just in opposite directions?
The bolts are not in shear. The rotor to hub friction is what holds the rotor.
Water/plasma jets are the only thing you need to make 6 bolt rotors.
The addition of Broaching tooling/Machine for the Shimano Centerlock is cost prohibitive for most.
-Jon
.
Disagree with you completely about dual control though. A system that integrated the shifters into the prone to crash damage brake levers, ties you into one brand for gears and brakes AND made you twist your wrist or finger in an awkward way to shift gears. I hated the second gen XT dual controls so much I went to Hope brakes. A case of trying to apply roadie tech to mountain bikes without thinking about who would actually want it or why.
Dual Control certainly had issues, no doubt about it, but I think the concept had a lot of promise back in the day. For the average Pinkbiker...? Probably not, but for a lot of mountain bikers who just like to ride, maybe.
Another major draw back to centerlock is that Shimano has been removing the license for lock ring over the past few years which again make it difficult for brands to sell hub without the lockring. The lock ring that comes with most Shimano rotor will not work on a 15x100 hub.
There are other drawback like bearing placement but those are the two biggest that I see.
Rapid rise was not a good idea.
And it’s not a bad idea just because it’s backwards. It’s bad because they forced it on us and it didn’t work well like they told us it would.
On the good side at least it opened the door for Sram to come in and give us better options.
Dual control works good on road bikes. But not on a bike with constant jarring and death switch disc brakes where you might slam your wheel locked when you think your just shifting and your safe grip of the bar has been loosened to do so.
Centre lock is also shit.
On a bicycle where every click and clunk rattles through the whole machine. An extra clunk or creak when you use your brakes is not good. It adds up the a shittier feeling bike whenever you grab the handlebar. Not confidence inspiring.
Don’t stand up for the shitty ideas Mike.
They’re shitty ideas. The bike business is full of them and it’s bullshit that they aren’t weeded our before they waste our money.
For the low budget companies cranking out $10 rotors
If they were to some degree, you would hear 4 clunks everytime you put your car in reverse and applied the brakes.They can't be in shear and held by friction at the same time for very long.
Yup. But not designed to be. That's all I was trying to convey. Your right though, that could be one of the failure modes.
But the friction under the bolt doesn't come into play until the friction between the rotor and hub is overcome.
And at that point the bolts would no longer be in tension and placed in shear due to the rotor being loose. So the friction under the bolt never is part of the equation.
But it's not really that hard for a weekend trip is it?
I went riding at Blue Derby last weekend, and my repairs & spares fitted in a single small shoebox (my wife wears a size 4):
* two spare chains
* adjustable spanner
* Pedal spanner
* Shimano external BB spanner
* Truvativ external BB tool
* cassette tool
* bottle of chain lube
* grease & grease gun
* friction paste
* spare XT cassette
* spare gear cable & short bit of housing
* blue loctite
* small bottle of shimano mineral oil
* spare sets of brake pads
[Mea culpa, I had a big bottle of Stans as well that didn't fit in the box]
These go with the multi-tool, pump, spare tube, patch kit and quick links that live permanently in my hydration pack.
I know it's overkill having spares like cassettes and chains (especially somewhere like Derby where there are shops you could get them at), but this stuff lives in the shoe-box in my shed drawer, so it's easier just to grab it and stick it in the car than anything else. I also have some buddies that can't be trusted to keep up with maintenance, which can ruin everyone's ride if you're somewhere with no shops, or even have to hang around waiting for the shop to open.
The Centerlock is probably a more robust system, but a bit heavier on average?
Its a lot like Beta vs VHS. All depends who adopts it first....
Seems like a lot of people already reply to your statement.
Still I would like to clarify a few things.
When a brake forcing acting on the rotor. The forces that countering the braking force is bolt shear forces + friction (from bolt head/preload).
Though engineers only consider shear load to the bolts are the actual load path of this system. Since friction in this case is considered to be insignificant or not to be relied on. It means to be a conservative approach.
Now lot of people might think there are room to jiggle during rotor installation but that's all due to tolerance. The correct way is rotate the rotor to the loaded direction till it bottom out (all bolts bearing against the rotor) then tighten it to the spec.
Of cuz, one might argue that some bolt might not be fully engaged to the rotor. And that's a issue with manufacturing so be sure to check if there is elongated holes in case of uneven loading. The principle is to have all bolts provide bearing load in order counter the brake force.
I am a senior structural engineer and this is sort of what I do for living. Be safe shredding and make sure installing the rotor correctly.
So explain to me why your car doesn't clunk when braking in reverse?
For the bolts to be in sheer preventing the rotor from turning, it would need to be a slip joint due to the rotor hole size clearance.
Oh, and it actually the tire that stops the bike.
You are correct. My point was it isn't the primary mode.
But hey, thanks for the backhanded insult. BTW, I'm on the couch, not the chair.
Many common items are designed with fasteners in shear. Girder bridges are one example.
Because there are springs, and tolerances on a caliper that mostly prevent it. Some aftermarket pads that aren't made to proper tolerances do exactly that. I've also had cars with aftermarket pads rattle over bumps.
Those are things that prevent pad rattle, taper wear and encourage pad retraction.
With a correctly designed and torqued joint, it should not be possible to spin the rotor when braking.
And your right about aftermarket pads rattling.Most of the time it is from undersized backing plates.
The flip side is you can get more even pad wear with more of a loose fit do to less binding and better retraction.
Good points Mike. I'd like to add that the quality of the bolt impacts clamp load of the rotor, even when torqued correctly. You just don't know were the yield point is on questionable bolts. Ive had rotor bolts that were barely harder than pot metal. Using a new good quality bolt, preferably with proper loctite is a must.
I have all snap-on torque angles.
I re-use rotor bolts and still tighten them by hand. I only use the torque wrench when I'm torquing seat clamps, stems, handlebars and the like. The 1/4" one torques rotor bolts well, only used it once on a new set of wheels, because lazy.
Also don't like how Shimano (purposely) reserves the finned (Freeza?) rotors for Centerlock rotors only.
And have begun a personal mini crusade against double lock on grips. Oh, how I adore the outside of my hand getting pummeled by that outer lock ring.
If you're not using the correct type of thread lock when putting a steel bolt into an alu hole then I very much doubt that you are getting the correct torque reading anyway...
You saved me having to write it!
I love shimano stufff... but having to buy a £25 special socket to remove a rotor left a sour taste! Also, the entire centrelock spline was larger, and those large bore rotors are like hens teeth!
Do you think 5 bolts in shear will hold a car wheel on?
The conical section is to align the wheel to the hub properly, so that all the bolts can be fitted properly - so equal TENSION can be applied.
It is hub to wheel friction which keeps the wheel on. The friction is created by the tension in the bolts
thread "LOCK" is a funny name, as unless you are using the RED(high heat required to remove), that blue stuff is only there to keep the bolts from falling out if they do come loose. The blue Loctite does not "LOCK" anything.
@thuren: It's getting harder and harder for me to not come off as a dick but here goes: Understanding how the system is designed does not qualify you to install it any more than understanding how to install it qualifies me to design it. You sound like a very competent engineer and I'm not trying to one up you here but your bolts come loose.
6 Bolt in 20+ years of use I've never had any come loose or fail and have several expensive top end hubs that keep getting re-used on new rims so centre lock for me is just another pointless new standard fixing a problem that doesn't exist.
Yeah i do. I'm lazy. I'm yet to have a rotor bolt come loose, strip my hub or have any other issues.
Conversely, i've dealt with plenty of stripped ISO bolt holes, and several sheared bolts. So for me centerlock is hands down the better solution.
I shifted it via a PopLoc remote (I think) mounted to the underside of my bike's top tube, like a suicide shifter. It was a pretty neat setup. I also had my girlfriend at the time draw a bunch of art on the frame with a permanent marker.
www.pinkbike.com/photo/4074188
I work in shops and am embarrassed by what I see passing as 'qualified' labor.
Product wise, biopace was shit but the newer, properly aligned rings makes sense for all race bikes. It also helps reduce chainring wear for our high torque mtb efforts by increasing the number of teeth that are pulling the chain. Lots of rings only have 4 teeth that are worn out on opposite sides of the chainring.
Dual control was great when panic braking pulled you into the wrong gear on rough terrain. Rode that briefly, it was annoying but maybe had a place with XC racers (also freed up your thumbs for remote lockouts! Yaaaay!).
Pedal bearings do indeed suck, but so does putting the bearing further away from the load, ie in the crank arm where you now have your full body weight levering on it with the pedal body instead of having a bearing directly beneath the load path. Those Flypaper pedals were pretty grippy though. The THE rims (which came out before 2006, I think more like 2003 or 2004, and UST has been around since at least 2002) were ignored at the time because everyone associated THE with TLD-knockoff helmets that didn't fit anyone's heads and enormous mudguards, and because the rims weighed a ton at a time everyone was obsessed with weight. And because when you hit the PVC guard enough times it broke. Other than that, great idea
I've changed from rapid rise to di2 (No, I'm not a dentist, just a glorified mechanic) so skipped the whole retraining my brain thing.
I really wish UST tyres were still available (Tubeless ready isn't as good), they were the bomb on my old Mavic 823's
Travel adjust forks are essential where the climbing is steep.
Why not have a bike that’s easy to climb steep technical and shreds on the way down too?
Mostly because enduro riders don’t like it and they just walk when the climbs are too steep anyway.
So i understand why it seems useless to most people.
The performance sacrifice is a non issue compared to not sitting right on your dick up 4 hours of brutal climbing.
But since that’s not enduro it doesn’t really matter right.
Still have coil Uturn on one bike, and miss old Wotan.
Admittedly newer geometries reduce the need for adjustment. Still don’t like low BB trend though.
Rant over
That's the hope, but it usually doesn't work like that. I try to keep the massive one as a bailout gear but after a few hours it becomes my best friend.
And to just note, i didn't pay that much extra. Gx eagle and gx 11s are in my opinion, too close in price for the extra benefit of 12s.
Can you tell me anything better for mountain biking about a 12 speed cassette with 10-42 range against a 10 speed with 10-42?
I see it as more weight, more sensitive mech adjustment required for equal shifting, more multiple shifts required to get to the right gear, clogs with mud easier, weaker shorter lived chain, higher cost because of the extra cog, less reliable shifting.
I said I'd like 12 speed to disappear as we all know the big companies won't go back and release new options for their 'old' standards.
I can't afford or maintain a Ferrari. Should I wish for those to disappear as well?
As for parts, I'll dig around for some links and send them your way.
A properly set up 2x also works remarkably well.
Having to run a draggy dual chain guide/roller. Either a draggy slider or a noisy roller with a bearing that goes every 2 mins. For what? the same range as a decent 10spd.
The only reason I would put one back on would be if I were bike packing and really needed the low gears. But saying that I would just get a smaller ring up front and be done with it.
Even though we don't have mountain in the south east there are still some punchy climbs that I can make it up on 1x. Any steeper and I will walk.
For the record I run 11speed XT shifter and mech and XD Sram freehubs GX cassettes on 4 of my bikes as it offers my perfect range of gears. However it would have better bigger steps between gears as a 10 speed, better mud clearance, better durability, reduced manufacturing costs etc. So for me it would be a superior setup.
Keep the Ferrari I'm more a Lotus kind of chap.
The other advantage of 1x is oval rings. I'm definitely a fan.
Lotus, hmmm. I would have to go vintage bond era if I went Lotus. For British cars, Aston really sparks my interest.
How does Pinkbike work anyway? I get the feel I'm missing out on some pretty good articles, because they don't get listed.
Another I did, literally years before helmets came with camera mounts was to make the connecting pieces of helmet vents to be circular with a 31.8mm diameter (yes, handle bar dimensions) so that any bar mount would transfer straight to the helmet.
Same again, ok idea, rushed to production, crap outcome that was written off
But 5 years too late as you say
1. Rapid Rise derailleurs are definitely cool, but you need some extra time to set them up, just because they are reverse. Back in the day, our Dual/4X champion used an XTR M952 for good reasons: he sprinted out of the gate in a light gear and then he could instantly shift DOWN 3-5 gears (depending on the shifter lever), to get himself in a proper gear that was good for the rest of the course.
2. You are very mild on Dual Control, but let me tell you that the biggest reason why people hated it is because Shimano forced them to use it, because this is what hucking Shimano does and they always acted like this, shoving whatever they wanted down our throats, just because they can. Could one buy a normal RapidFire unit from Shimano in 2003-2004? NO! Shimano only offered you their crappy Dual Control levers you didn't want, because they needed more ”integration” (read: ”you should only buy our stuff and we will force you to do so”). Meanwhile, do you know what SRAM did? SRAM rolled out the second generation of Triggers that actually WORKED and offered you Shimano-compatible levers in good quality with better ergonomics than Shimano. What's not to like? It's this kind of dreadful corporate attitude that still makes me avoid Shimano a much as I can and I am sure I am not the only one.
These companies should learn, for crying out loud, only one simple thing: to be DECENT towards their customers, who are not stupid, by the way. Speaking of decency, all these shitty ”standards” come to mind, and can you remember who recently called all stakeholders together to fix this as much as it can be fixed? Chris King. Chris freaking King! A little company, not your industry mammoth. Do you know why? Because Chris King is first and foremost a DECENT company which cares about its customers and you only need to go to their website to learn why. If you own a King product you probably feel more of this good attitude towards the end consumer too. And have I mentioned Mr. King is a very approachable person and just a delight as a human being? Well, there you go! Our MTB world needs more people like him and less douchebags who fantasize about a fresh method of blackmailing you into buying their damn product.
Also, triggers by SRAM still suck.
1) They provided a level of pinch flat protection at the rim bead.
2) They could easily be donned and doffed to access spoke nipples otherwise locked away under non reusable tape. When I had ENVEs I didn't have to access the nipples often, but when I did I really hated ruining/wasting a good tape job. I guess ENVE saw the light, at least sort of for some of their rims.
For reference I have a mix of Pike's (1 Avy cart), Dvo diamond, and an Xfusion meteic in my ahead right now.
How much for this shitty dwarf?
Also i miss the mention about that, that the Rapid Rise and Dual Control were two parts of one shifting system. Both together, that had sense. But! Some manufacturers specced their bikes incorrectly (trigger shifters coupled with rapidrise derailleurs-that couple really does´nt sense for me), and from that was the hate of both.
I remember seeing Specialized 2.5" Ground Control tires in early 90's on closeout in Nashbar catalogs.
But I'm not seeing the justification for Dual Control brake/ shifter but seems like skinsuits could come back. The skinsuit Moto look is starting to get weird.
Or am I the only one who thinks using my cranks to get up a feature is cheating??? Hint (its not cheating if it's bigger than your wheel)
Though i suppose it's possible that Shimano have got their act together in the last 20 years, for instance i have noticed that the floating jockey wheel (the only thing that made Shimano mechs work in the mud) has gone, and the springs are are much more substantial (the other reason Shimano mechs sucked so much). For those who weren't there, imagine the difference between a firm manly handshake and a slightly clammy limp wristed thumb and fingertips handshake that makes seriously wonder if the guy actually has balls or not, that was the difference between Sachs and Shimano, has it shifted? versus, f*ck me the Terminator just shifted gear for me!
So i'm left thinking, ok so Shimano have basically copied Sram mechs, and now suddenly Sram sucks, so, what am i missing?
I'm on sram now...
I'm a big guy, ride my bike without much finesse and don't service my pedals more than once a year, but have had 10 year's life out of a set of pedal built like this, which only gave up once the rubber seals perished. The two sets of Specialized Bennies I have at the moment are both going strong after 2 years, with one grease replacement.
The only trade-off is that journal bearings like this usually have a hair's width of vertical play in them all the time, but when you're standing on them, rather than wiggling them in your hands, your weight is obviously only ever pressing down, so you can't feel it.
Braking and changing down is front brake and rear shifter. I don't think I use both rears at the same time (but will have a look next time I ride).
Plenty of motorbikes these days have linked brakes, slam the front on hard and it give 20% braking to the rear. Maybe linked brakes is something that should be looked at, is there ever an occasion where you want full front braking but no rear braking at all? I guess the other way round maybe the bit that needs sorting as pulling skids it maybe a bummer to have your front activate.
Also came here to say I’ve got some dual controls sitting in my basement that I thought were nigh-worthless. Dunno if this article increased their value or may then worthlesser. Off to buy-sell!
And dropper posts with levers under the saddle...
Pedal bearings in the crank. Something shimano tried in the 80s? Allowed perfect circles to be pedalled due to pedal platform being in line with center of pedal axle, one sided though, used toe clips. Larger bearing ues, but also larger hole for pedal to be inserted into crank, obviously newer manufacturing could cure this, but it limited the original to that proprietary crank/pedal combo.
Rapid Rise (Rapid Demise?) You were relying on the spring in the derailleur to move the chain to larger cogs. A tough shift even for cabled derailleurs, despite shift ramps on the cassette and chain profiles, it never matched the performace of the traditional derailleur. It was designed to match shifts front and rear, same action on each shifter has the same result, now that we are almost all 1x thats not necessary.
Dual Control. For whatever reason shimano wanted to make their mtn bike shifters like their road bike ones. Well, we dont ride on roads. Bumpy terrain, especially on a descent where you are braking resulted in a lot of unwanted shifts, kinda like bunny hopping and popping wheelies with gripshifts. It also allowed them to match shifts fr and rr, again with a rapid rise derailleur...
Those THE rims... anyone got a nos set in 32h laying around? I still ride 26"
All that said, when I adjust my brain to my modern Eagle, then hop on the jalopy, takes me a mile or two to reprogram. Figure it'll stave off the dementia. :-D
They just can't take this climate, especially not here in the Peak District where I live
Cartridge hubs are lighter and somewhat easier to work with (most don’t have adjustable preload), but if you want long term durability, cup and cone is the way to go.
I use cup'n'cone hubs on road bike too - absolutely fine.
Off road in the Peak District? They last maybe 2 rides
You will never have to replace them, still have some 30+ yrs old and perfect.
They also made a Sealed cartridge BB for road bikes, but you had to chamfer the threads with a special tool, that to lasted forever.
Get the design right and sealed bearings will outlast all of us, seems like the engineers are slipping of late.
Agreed has to be just right or it's s*#t.
G3 linkage and the air shock seems to much better touch wood. Stll use my old cadabra. Nostalgia.
Makes me want to try a tantrum
Hydraulic Road bike brakes before they were even born.
You're welcome x)
Good design problem!
KA-PSCHHHIT
www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/interview-jeff-steber-owner-of-intense-cycles-28281
Only giving it a VOD was poor execution of appreciation.
I can't argue that I'd far prefer to work on a threaded BB than a Pressfit system, though.
And Spanish BB in BMX.
Those few times I strayed away, GXP, ISIS, 30mm, pressfit - it was all crap.
Stay with 24mm Shimano, and all will be good. I hope this new 29mm option from SRAM will be reliable as well.
Threaded BBs are a boon for the unskilled mechanic without a bearing press, but don't have any inherent mechanical benefit over press-fit bearings.