Randoms: Hope's Updated Crankset, Mavic's New Carbon Wheels, Formula's Coil-Sprung Selva - Bike Connection Winter 2019

Mar 7, 2019
by Mike Levy  
Bike Connection Winter


Bike Connection might not ring a bell like the Interbike (RIP) and Eurobike shows do, but the three-day event in Massa Marittima, Italy, takes a different approach. Instead of a sprawling hall full of everything from custom carbon to valve cap manufacturers, Bike Connection brings together a smaller group of companies - just twelve at this winter show - for a more focused, personal event.

First up is Hope with their revised EVO crank arms. Carbon fiber might get most of the oohs and ahhs, but many of us still prefer good ol' aluminum when it comes to cranks, and Hope's EVO arms are some of the most lusted after. For 2019, Hope has simplified the installation process greatly and also ditched the proprietary tools that used to be required to do the job. There's a self-extracting crank bolt that threads into the 30mm spindle, too, because there should always be a self-extracting crank bolt.


Bike Connection Winter
Bike Connection Winter
The revised EVO cranks ditch a few grams and, more importantly, no longer require Hope's tools to install.


Visually, you're probably going to be hard pressed to tell the old and new arms apart, but Hope has removed more aluminum from the backside of the updated EVOs and is claiming 560-grams for the 170mm length without a bottom bracket. You can get them in 165m and 175mm, too, and with a spider or a direct-mount chainring. Color options are many because it's Hope, and MSRP is $325 USD.


Bike Connection Winter
Bike Connection Winter
Want to go wider? Hope now offers the Fortus in 23, 26, 30 and 35mm internal widths.


Hope has also re-worked their aluminum rim lineup by adding more width, with riders able to choose from 23, 26, 30 and 35mm (internal) wide rims. Still holding onto to your 26" hopes and dreams? Both the 26mm and 30mm wide Fortus rims can be had in that nearly extinct diameter, so you're in luck. Weights start at 420-grams and go up to 610-grams.



Bike Connection Winter
The Crossmax Elite Carbon wheelset weighs 1,600-grams and is designed for cross-country and trailbike use.


Mavic's new goods at Bike Connection include the Crossmax Elite Carbon wheelset that's aimed at the cross-country and trailbike crowd. With a 26mm internal width and 1,600-gram claimed weight for a set of the 29ers, they're light enough to feel very sporty but they're also a few millimeters wider than Mavic's pure cross-country race wheels.

Mavic says that they're using "Impact Resistant Resin,'' and that the rim is engineered for ''maximum durability, lightness, and compliance to minimize pinch flats.''


Bike Connection Winter
Bike Connection Winter
Mavic's ID360 clutch employs two splined discs and a single spring.


They're laced up with twenty-four straight-pull spokes in a two-cross layout, with a set of Mavic's new hubs in the middle. The French company had some reliability issues with their older freehub system many years ago but the newer Instant Drive 360 setup has been proving itself. With two ratchet wheels that interlock with a splined face inside the freehub, ID360 looks a lot like DT Swiss Star Ratchet system, but the former employs a single spring whereas DT Swiss uses two.



Bike Connection Winter
The Formula Selva C fork. Can you guess what the 'C' stands for?


While air-sprung suspension might still be far more popular, coils have made a big comeback over the past few years due to less friction and new types of steel that have drastically cut the difference in weight. Formula's Selva fork has an incredibly adjustable air spring but the flipside to that is the setup process that's anything but normal - it not only requires you to lockout the damper, but the pressure in the negative chamber must be at zero every time you do anything to the positive chamber.


Bike Connection Winter
Bike Connection Winter
A preload dial replaces the air cap, but you get to keep all of the damper adjustments.


The new Selva C ditches all that for a preload dial and a coil spring that's available in three different rates. There's no word on weight but expect it's likely going to be a nip heavier than the air-sprung version, of course.

More important than grams, it'll still make use of Formula's Compression Tuning System that lets riders easily swap compression valving to better suit their weight, style, and terrain, with seven options to choose from.


122 Comments

  • + 46
 "without no bottom bracket"

I know we hate press fit but this is going too far
  • + 27
 Double negative - means: with
  • + 26
 @chainspotting: I've been riding without the absence of a bottom bracket for years, but the lack of specificity had me worried.
  • + 2
 @Mtmw: haha nice one Smile
  • + 25
 Hope still haven’t learned their lesson. The first crankset was terrible, I wasted 300€ on them. Installation and removal took forever and things were getting loose. Yet they still use this ridiculous retention ring that everyone who owned older XTR cranks knows is rubbish. Hey Hope, when you make Pro 5 evo cranks, just dod what Shimano does. It works. Shimano makes THE best cranksets in business, by far margin, so how about you just add your nice twist to it because I love how your cranks look, some of the best looking, but just quit those weird engineering solutions that seem sound but aren’t
  • + 25
 I beg to differ. If you install them incorrectly you'll have problems. I run hopes on my bike and it's been a flawless set it and forget setup but they do take attention to detail when installing.
  • + 2
 But Raceface, Sram, White Industries, and Im sure a few others use a similar preload ring and it works fine. Don't blame the preload ring. Shimano made good cranks a while ago, but most of their lineup is in drastic need of an update to remain competitive.
  • + 16
 @Pmrmusic26: guess what there is pretty much no such thing as install Shimano incorrectly. They are lighter and MUCH cheaper.
  • + 6
 I have old XTR (M970). Still running. Installed properly no problems.
  • - 13
flag nzandyb (Mar 7, 2019 at 12:12) (Below Threshold)
 @WAKIdesigns: Race Face/Easton's Cinch system is better than Shimano: it's fully modular so you can use any spindle length you want (even a power-meter), uses an English BB tool for chainring retention, uses a 30mm spindle so is stiffer... A Turbine crank is a full 178g lighter than an M8000 XT crank (both without BB)... The Raceface hardly even requires a torque wrench like the Shimano (if you don't get that 12-14nm on those pinch-bolts then your Shimano crank is falling off).
  • + 69
 @Buggyr333: Shimano cranks are like Toyota pick up trucks. Nobody ever gets excited about them, but you buy them, start using them and thousands upon thousands of trouble free miles later you realise that yes, they are actually pretty good. Calling them uncompetitive is a little bit silly, unexciting yes, but when building a new bike it's Shimano cranks and forget about them.
  • + 2
 XTR M970 on two of my bikes for years and having my 240 lb body on top of 180 mm cranks is a great test for them. Not once have I seen a problem with them. I like the Shimano twin pinchbolt design better but both are bombproof. There's a reason that Shimano reverted to this design for the new XTR cranks.
  • + 4
 @Pmrmusic26: agreed. I have Hope and Race Face with this system and its fine. And I have been through quite a few Shimano Cranks including Saints. Waki did you face the bb shell correctly? Were you drinking again?
  • + 32
 @Fix-the-Spade: Im 42 and still get excited about Toyota trucks and Shimano
  • + 14
 @nzandyb: why is the bb30 better? Are you a pro ? I can't see why I should change again to Race Face with their special tools and stuff. The 16mm hex is total rare around Europe. If you did not take it with you on a bike park tour and it get loose it will be an issue. BB 30 bearing's are all together rubbish. That is really the reason I hate every 30mm cranksets.
Shimano cranksets with the good old 5 mm hex bolts are easy and reliable.
  • + 2
 Agree. This must be a patent issue, there is no other way I can rationalise the other crank systems.
  • + 26
 @nzandyb: never had a shimano crank come loose or fall off & I,ve never owned a torque wrench
  • + 3
 @WAKIdesigns: race face cinch for me all day.. Easiest I've ever used
  • + 2
 @WAKIdesigns: The only problem with Shimano Cranks is their finish. I always rub down to silver on black cranks within a year. I have heard Hope has a top notch finish that doesn't rub off.
  • + 11
 Shimano cranks - how the hell they make cold forged hollow cranks is a mystery.
So long as you keep all the bolts tight (including pedal threads) they're pretty much indestructible, but not available in anodised purple so are seen as boring.

Got some XT780's that have been on more bikes than I can recall. Best of all the chainrings and BB's are around £12 a go cos they're always in the clearance sales
  • + 2
 @IllestT: some sort of bonding/pressing and not manufactured from one piece, see here: pinkbike.com/news/last-call-random-images-from-outdoor-demo-interbike-2017.html

My Turbine definitely survived more impacts without bending than my XT, but the Cinch BB is utter crap. And in combination with a Hope BB (threaded) the crank sometimes gets loose even though the shell width is correct. Also 30 mm axles seem stupid looking at all these bikes with BB92s... I destroy BBs fast enough as it is, I can't imagine how those tiny bearings hold up. I wish there were more 24 mm axle options you can use with a proper pressfit/thread in BB and centre tube like the one from hope.
  • + 2
 @Serpentras: yeah, no shops here had that 16mm hex. I found an old rusty brake tube with a 16mm nut on it, in a friends garage. Hey ho lets go wierd sizes
  • + 2
 @nzandyb: Never had any trouble with my shimano. My RF turbines on the other hand needs half a bottle of locktite red to keep the chainring and cranks from coming lose...
  • - 1
 @IllestT: The crank arms are forged in two pieces then glued together.
  • + 3
 @nzandyb: LOL, what? if you need a torque wrench to install shimano cranks, how is the rest of your bike even running?!?
  • + 4
 @Buggyr333: "It works fine". Sure, but it adds parts and steps to the install process that Shimano has avoided. The only equal to Shimano I've found for value, reliability, and easy of use is Praxis. If Shimano did a simple update to offer a spiderless system it would be perfect. $25 for XTR bottom brackets are the icing on the cake.
  • + 2
 @Trailsoup: my turbines have been maintenance free two seasons straight now..
  • + 3
 @Serpentras: try putting both a 7mm+8mm Allen keys together into the 16mm head. It fits and you can get em off.
I shocked my workshop manager the day I told him this when he was panicking to find a 16mm
  • + 4
 @utley06: 98 tacoma bought brand new. drive it today, everyday. 424,000
never once has left me stranded.
  • + 1
 while only times can tell if the new crank's self-extracting system will last...I do have to agree older crankset's installation and removal process won't be a fan for most riders. Complicated? No. I do have fun reading the instructions and play with it. Removal is a bit annoying, I have to use the mallet the jack it out after loosen all the bolts, which I would have done the same thing on the Shimano Crank IF I need to remove the drive side crank.

Actually with the new EVO crank release, it is a welcoming sign – aka, I can snap the 1st Gen Crankset @ a lower price.
  • + 1
 +1 for Shimano and the split clamp, splined BB system.

Looking forward to the new xt which apparently is going to be out in prototype form in April.

Spiderless is cooler, but I will miss that split clamp.
  • + 0
 @felimocl: I know there are work arounds but a 7 Allen key is inch again, there is no 7 mm here. We take different keys for that , 10 and 5 for example.
Still more complicated then the two 5 hex bolts on Shimano. The only thing I like about the RF and other designes is the fact that I can just release the drive side do quickly change the chainrings. Direct mount like race Face again is a complicated thing not because the old BB tool. You need to clamp the crankarm. Total stupid for the high-end carbon cranksets If they have no flat surface on the edges to clamp them with way less force. Most of the edges are round with some angles. Total crap to clamp them and then apply 40nm or more torque.
  • + 1
 @Serpentras: You don't actually require a 16mm unless your changing the spindle, 8mm is all you need for installation & removal.
  • + 0
 @Demoguy: if the drive side gets loose you need it, why do you think I write the frist comment about a trip?
Clamping alone the 8mm won't hold it for long. I did get it with pair of pliers to work for a day at that time because normal multi tools had no Allen key combinations possible.
  • + 1
 @jzPV: Most MTB models are made from a single piece - XTR Race are built more like the road cranks from two pieces.
  • + 4
 @MTBSPEC: yes I agree (to a point though since it is the problem with all cranks, it’s only than for instance SRAM and RF are smart enough to put a thick plastic film on their carbon cranks from the start). Hope also uses silver finish. But Shimano used to be smarter about it. Previous SLX and XTR models had raw surface on the outsides L. The 660 SLX and 980 XTR were the best cranksets ever made and considering the price to weight to durability ratio 660 SLX is unbeatable up to this day. I would still have it going strong from 2009 but the pedal unscrewed mid ride and I was stupid enough to keep riding with loose one. Currently own a silver colored XT 770 with recessed logo and it will be with me for years to come. So will my 7000 SLX crankset that replaced my Hope. I also have nothing to good old alloy Sram X9 and all current alloy Srams, in fact I love how simple their spiderless design is. Hope could learn a bit from that too. It was their locking ring that broke the back of my patience camel, unscrewing itself twice and each time it happened I had to remove the whole crankset and go through the overcomplicated process of doing it. That and dying Bb92 bearings coped with their 30mm axle
  • + 0
 Come off it waki shimano still use pinch bolts and don’t know how to make their own xtr cranks that the promoted this shit out of about 18 months ago. There clearly not in the same league as Hope. I mean just use your eyes.
  • + 2
 @thenotoriousmic: yes pinch bolts, they have only one downside - only absolute idiots break stuff that has them. Thanks to them we have some dumb QRs instead of thru axles in all of our bikes these days and companies have fkng nerve to talk about improving stiffness.
  • + 2
 @Serpentras: You don't have to clamp the crankarm. Clamp the BB tool in a vice and use the crankarm as a lever.
  • - 1
 Can someone please explain me how did I get 20+ props on shaming Hope? Where are all the zealots? Did I punch through?
  • + 1
 @Fix-the-Spade: nobody gets excited about Toyota pickup trucks?
  • + 1
 The problem you are having with 30mm bearings is the shitty silicone grease they bring from factory, put some light grease that is not sold in bike stores (this is important), online or not, and you'll be trouble free.
  • + 1
 cranks with preload rings are easy to fix, lathe some 6061 or 7075 bar stock. machine some spacers that leave about about 0.002" or 0.05mm wider measured with feeler gauge than a wave washer, then run a wave washer. Works tits.
  • + 1
 @englertracing: ah why didn’t I think of that... haha
  • + 0
 @WAKIdesigns: pinch bolts... Ergh
  • + 2
 @thenotoriousmic: huh, how much pinching do you like? Do you also overthighten top caps and bottom nuts on forks in case they get loose and forks loses air or drips oil? Or screw in pedals so hard that you need to use a 3ft pipe as leverage to unscrew them? You know, in case they get loose and mess up threads in your sweet crankset Big Grin Oh I've bought second hand stuff from people who do these things, including bike mechanics, oh yeah, ooooh yeah...
  • + 2
 @thenotoriousmic: it just seems to me that Hope system is built for nut heads who have very little feeling their hands and will compensate with lots of expensive tools, Torque wrench not being one of them. Instead get stuff that grabs stuff securely and allows for unobstructed high torque applications. And yes, you need rather little pinching force to secure crank arm on shimano spindle. Those 24mm ones that just don’t want to give. So if you break a Shimano crank using 5mm allen key, if using two finger operated torque cap doesn’t bring you satisfactory results, that is free spinning crankarms without play, the home wrenching is just not for you.
  • + 1
 @WAKIdesigns: STOP assuming, stop drinking. You have essentially said you are bad mechanic. Loose pedals, and please SLX, I busted every gen of Saint first Season and the pinchbolt was a majour contributor. Face your bb shell correctly and the hopes will stay put. Now shut up and race.
  • + 2
 @Keit: you "busted every gen of Saint first Season"? I'm calling BS
  • + 1
 @FCX250: I don't think so, my last BB30 I used was dead after 2 weeks. Most of them had enough grease.
  • + 4
 @IllestT: Fella's 19, must have been one hell of a hucker when gen 1 Saint came out, in 2003.
  • + 3
 Shimano cranks with pinch bolts, how can anyone dislike them?

I don't understand.

The splines take the loads and hold the cranks in the right place. The pinch bolts stop the cranks falling off the spindle. That little plastic plate with the notch helps too. I bet there are people who have gone on rides with those pinch bolts undone and not had the crank arm slide off. It's a quality system.
  • + 1
 I never said anything about the Shimano system being bad. I just said that others work fine and that shimano cranks aren't competitive. Sure they work fine but are heavier than most other comparable cranks, and don't offer direct mount in anything but the top tier. That's all I meant by them not being competitive.
  • + 2
 So what’s the benefit of direct mount chainrings?

DM chainrings are more expensive.
DM chainrings take longer to swap.
DM chainrings have too many standards.
Too many ring swaps and you risk loosening up the crankarm/bb taper.

Pain in the ass if you ask me. Best thing I did to my Cinch crankset was to put a OneUp Switch spider on it! I don’t change chainrings often but when I do, I don’t want to pull my bloody crankarm off.
  • + 2
 @bogey: I would say DM looks better and is lighter. That's it. I swap chainrings an average of once every two years so I'm not bothered about that part. Having said that, I have never owned a DM crank because all my cranks have been Shimano. I like the clean look of the new XTR or MT900 cranks, but I dislike the idea of them moving away from pinch bolts for the left crank arm.
  • + 0
 @bogey: Chainring bolts have always been and will always be a pain in the ass. Especially the Shimano ones.
  • + 0
 @jzPV: pretty tough to operate aren’t they!
  • + 0
 @bogey: They break, seize, get loose and some even require a special tool...
  • + 1
 @jzPV: sounds like you need to invest in some grease or anti-sieze compound.
Special tool such as a chainring bolt wrench that you can get pretty much anywhere? Definitely easier than pulling a crankarm.

The One Up Switch is awesome but still doesn’t beat a proper 4 bolt crankarm.
  • + 0
 @jzPV: Yeah actually I forgot about that. I had a bike resprayed before and built it all up with a new ring and chain. I rode it down to my kids' primary school to check everything was tickety boo and when I got home one of the chainring bolts was missing the male and female parts and another was missing the male.
  • + 1
 DM chainrings are also compatible with lower tooth counts, and have better clearance to set up a chainguide on (not that anyone uses chainguides anymore)
  • + 1
 @bogey: As far as too many standards, there are a lot more standards in bolt circle diameter than there are in direct mount, just saying.
  • + 1
 Hell, Shimano crank arm preload caps have more standards than direct mount chainrings #smh
  • + 1
 @Buggyr333: I always use a guide. I can't bring myself not to. I know the science and empirical evidence says you don't need one, but I just always use one.

Good point about the smaller chainrings. If you were to use an e*13 cassette with a 9t sprocket on a 29er, you might well use a 28t ring. That would not be possible with standard spiders.
  • + 1
 pinch bolts look horrible and I don’t know what they’re for. All the cranks I’ve used that aren’t shimano don’t have them and nothing falls off.
  • + 0
 @IllestT: I weigh 90kg and Huck big. I have busted every gen Saint cranks. I have also a few Profiles and MRP Bones in my parts bin bent to a taco.
  • + 1
 @Keit: how did they break? I’ve bent shimano cranks but that’s about it.
  • + 1
 @Serpentras: Even if it gets loose the 16mm is just for the RF self extracting cap to remove the bolt, 8mm is still the only one holding the crankarm on. If it keeps coming loose, your probably not torquing it to the required 50nm.
  • + 1
 @Serpentras: There's a difference between enough grease and good grease and the lubricants used in the bike industry are all round shit. And they known it.
  • + 1
 @FCX250: but but but theres pictures of bikes on them......
Personally, on bike and moto pivots and headsets I use an aluminum complex thickener ep grease, schaffers 274.
For wheel bearings skf LESA 2, which is discontinued. Next is Kluber Isoflex LDS18 Special A, the base oil is light in these and will have extremely low starting torque.
  • + 1
 @FCX250: I don't even had bike specific bearing's when I replaced them. I don't buy super expensive stuff only because it is specific for something if it is a standard piece in other industries.

Still even if they fail after one month the grease isn't a problem then. Bb30 are shit and alot of other frame bearing's for the suspension are also total crap. As a engineer I say most of the bearing's are just wrong for the application.
  • + 12
 Keep these 26" rims available and hopefully companies will make some true freeride options again. Imagine the next generation never getting to feel what a supreme handling 26" bike feels like.
  • + 9
 I beg to differ. Growing up riding 26" and being a 26folifer, I will never go back. Hell I think my next Dh bike will have 29" wheels.
  • + 3
 ......so true.....26 was more fun when you knew you were riding well....even though technically they are slower....
  • - 5
flag chriskneeland (Mar 7, 2019 at 17:14) (Below Threshold)
 @sunringlerider: Some people need the help of big wheels to get over stuff they can't man up to.
  • + 5
 @chriskneeland: and some people just like the way big wheels feel..
  • + 4
 @bohns1: Yes. Also, some people are dead inside.
  • + 1
 @DarrellW: of course, like all those hanging on to 26 ain't dead.
  • + 1
 @chriskneeland: lolzzz you are correct. Maybe when I grow up I will go back to 26". In the mean time ill continue to be a kid and ride my bike.
  • + 6
 So the mavic carbon xc wheelset is 300g heavier than DT carbon xc wheels and over 100g heavier than XR1501 aluminum wheels. Are they just a stride behind DT, or is there something I'm missing? I doubt the Mavic will be cheaper. Similar ratchet system in both as well.
  • + 1
 DT is ahead at the moment. The only thing Mavic has that DT doesn't have is the special machined rim with the sealed spoke bed and threaded spoke holes. I would certainly consider some of the Sam Hill Deemax wheels, but they ruin them by using a yellow hub with no other options. It's a shame.
  • + 6
 Mavic making a carbon wheelset with steel spokes and a spline drive hub? Is the world ready for sensible Mavic wheels?
  • + 2
 I don't really care for the coil version of the selva. The Air version is one of the best fork's I have ever ridden.

I only want to know if formula will make a 29" 180mm travel selva.
  • + 1
 Mavis says XC/Trail at 26mm inner. A little 'wider' than their pure XC wheels.They are out of the loop for mtb wheels.
Look at the bike check above for the wheels XCO World Champion Kate Courtney uses now. www.pinkbike.com/news/bike-check-kate-courtneys-scott-contessa-spark-rc.html
DT Swiss XMC 1200 Spline 30mm. 30mm inner rim width.
  • + 1
 I want to see all the manufacturers pony up a crankset and let Odyssey's crank testing machine loose on it, with the condition that all results are published. Odyssey make BMX cranks which look great and there's a video of how they test. It looks brutal. www.odysseybmx.com/dailyword/2011/10/thunderbolt-tested-proven
  • + 1
 I'm a big fan of Odyssey. Pretty much everything they make is super simple and nearly indestructible. I've always thought the MTB world could learn a thing or two from BMX.
  • + 3
 Note to self: keep eye out for "old" hope cranksets on fire sale over next few months. Hehe.
  • + 2
 Is there going to be a 24mm spindle version for the hope cranks, because that & a threaded bb is still the best way to do cranks.
  • + 1
 Love the machined look of the Hope cranks but damn...break some of those backside edges or put a radius on them! Those sharp points are asking to bite into a rock. Easily gouged.
  • + 3
 Still no sign of the hope 6 pot brakes? been waiting for those things for ages
  • + 4
 Digging those mavic wheels/Hubs
  • + 0
 Can't wait for the fortus 26" to hit the market, planning to switch my 650b wheels out and want something with non-asym rims and j-bend spokes as anythjng proprietry is impossIble to replace over here.

Currently the 26" market in Oz is shocking, wheelsets are non-existent so looked at building myself, only half decent weight trail rims in 26" are from stans, the Sentry rim isn't available anywhere except at $200 a pop through ebay, and high engagement hubs... might as well give up - I9, Halo etc all either unavailable or by the time they reach our shores, megabucks!

Will be buying a set of these in 30mm width straight away
  • + 2
 Do Mavic still have verniers that only open out to 25 mm, no mention on width, or did i miss it? Probably
  • + 4
 26mm internal width, so somebody had a set of gauges that were 1mm out of spec and everyone decided to roll with it.
  • + 2
 I don't understand Mavic, why do they insist on continuing to make their wheels so narrow? Is there a market for narrow wheels?
  • + 0
 @highfivenwhiteguy: I think they have an opinion on rim width as related to ride quality or comfort. Also since they offer tire-and-wheel combos the rim width and tire bead/volume are supposed to function as a pair. Whether this is independently verifiable is another question.
  • + 3
 @highfivenwhiteguy: There's a market with people like me: someone looking for a decent wheel at a 50+% discount who's willing to bite the 25mm IW bullet for hundreds in savings. Plus, I figure I can eventually switch the Mavic wheel to a gravel bike with 142 spacing (the alloy boost XA elite uses adaptors).
  • + 9
 @highfivenwhiteguy: 25mm is plenty wide for 2.2-2.4 tires. Not everyone wants heavy ass 30+mm rims
  • + 1
 @clink83: I was looking at the Mavic website the other day. They (surprisingly!) now have a lot of wheelsets in 28, 30 and 35mm ID.

It's almost like they have got new management, who used to work at DT. Either that or they have decided if you can't beat them, join them. Tired of pushing their philosophy about 23mm rears, at the same time as watching their market share shrink year on year - they finally thought aw f*ck it. They want 35mm, let's give them 35mm. Even if they don't work as well according to us.
  • + 3
 I LOVE Hope stuff but, I love 24mm pinch bolt cranks even more :/
  • + 1
 It is truly staggering just how slow Mavic is to develop new product. Their UST system was cutting edge two decades ago but geez, let’s see something breakthrough already.
  • + 2
 Wait a second... Didn't mavic buy enve to share carbon wheel tech and patents?
  • + 2
 First crash & that little gold lock out level on the Selva will be lost forever in the bushes
  • + 1
 It would have to be a pretty direct hit, how many bikes do you see with beat up fork crowns in that area
  • + 2
 @zyoungson: Looks vulnerable in the open position. Just waiting for something (tree branch) to grab ahold of the lever.
  • + 2
 @miller22: True, but its italian, what can you expect?
  • + 0
 "but the pressure in the negative chamber must be at zero every time you do anything to the positive chamber" zero pressure? You have to hook a vacuum pump up to is and pump it below 1 atmosphere?

[/sarcastic a-hole]
  • + 8
 PSIG, not PSIA
  • + 3
 OMG that Formula fork is beautiful !
  • + 1
 Please Formula make the airspring backwatds compatible, would love to try it in my selva s
  • + 1
 it is already.. just buy dual air spring on it from formula.
  • + 1
 Love the goodies Hope always has to offer! My next cranks with be these tup
  • - 2
 Seems like E13's cranksets get no love, their interface is crazy strong and lifetime creak free. Not the cheapest out there but my one bike component that is literally set & forget
  • + 1
 So what’s lifetime mean. I’ve been interested in the e13s for a while seems like a sound design. But whenever I hear lifetime I think hyperbolic. how long should one expect a crankset to last. I’m reasonable I don’t think stuff should last forever but we seem to have blurred the line on how long a part should function. The only part I can think of off the top of my head as lifetime creak free would be an FSA pig dh headset.
  • + 3
 Too strong even, as there were reports about them becoming so stuck folks had to cut the cranks with an angle grinder to get them off.
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 that Selva looks beautiful!!
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 Any body know dates on those hope rims?
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 The blue compression knob looks tiny. have small fingers, this one's for you!
  • - 7
flag chainspotting (Mar 7, 2019 at 11:39) (Below Threshold)
 If so, Trump maybe this knob is for you ?
  • + 8
 @chainspotting: He has small hands but sausage fingers, like lil' smokies
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