Flip chips are a common sight but do they actually deliver on their promise?
Opinion: Henry QuinneyHas mountain biking outgrown flip chips? Well, I should be more specific. There will always be a place for geometry adjustment, particularly if it’s changing a downhill bike’s characteristics. I also quite like a frame that, much like a parent who enjoyed Lynyrd Skynyrd in their heyday, will welcome a mullet into the fold with open arms and greet it perhaps not with the suspicion it may often deserve. I believe those are noble causes and they do not stoke my ire.
Instead, I am of course talking about bikes that one pedals up-eth the hill and down-eth the hill. Your trail bikes, your enduro smashers, your all mountain bruisers… these are the types of bikes where I feel flip chips aren't as useful as they'd seem.
How Did We Get Here?The phrase phrase 'flip chip' is already making me somewhat nauseous and I’m only on the third paragraph...
Geometry adjustment has of course been around for a very long time indeed. Predictably, Cannondale, never
a brand afraid to do things differently, are one of the companies to have their fingerprints all over its genesis, but at least those bikes offered a very real adjustment. Another hat tip to the venerable (and lovably terrible) Rocky Mountain
Pipeline, with a 69.5°–71° headtube angle adjustment.
The Headtube Bone is Connected to the Seattube BoneThe problem with geometry adjustment is that it’s very hard to adjust one part of the bike in isolation. Now this wasn’t so bad for a time when head angles were steep or steeper, wheelbases were short or shorter, and seat tube angles weren’t viewed with the same critical eye as today.
Most geometry adjustments today use a flip chip (often in the link), which allows riders to choose between one mode steeper headtube, steeper seattube, higher BB, longer reach, and another mode slacker headtube, slacker seattube, lower BB, and shorter reach. But what if you want a slacker headtube, a lower BB, a steeper seattube,
and more reach? Too bad, bucko.
The fact is we do now have a highly critical eye when it comes to our geometry, and me casually knocking off half a degree from the seat tube angle to rake out the front of the bike is purely nonsensical. Frankly, I want my cake and I want to eat it too. I want my progressive geometry without Sophie’s Choice of deciding between an appropriate seat tube angle or a slacker headtube.
Much like a decrepit family labrador whose chewing is merely a toothless ploy that is more about soaking and gumming food into submission than it is about sharp teeth and impressive weaponry, these minor adjustments don’t deliver on the bite they promise.
It does what it says on the tin.
An Excuse for Playing it SafeI believe many of the minor adjustments often offered to the consumer such as these are more about hedging bets than driving bike design forward. This is one of the elements that frustrate me the most - fli...
geometry adjustment chips are often seen as progressive, but I would argue they’re a safe bet in lieu of actual radicalism. They’re definitely more Avril Lavigne than the Clash, and that’s because instead of having to do a job properly, it only has to be ‘within half a degree’. They’re not driving questions of ‘Should I stay or Should I go?’ but instead suggesting that they can just hang around the smoking area saying we’ll 'forget they’re even there.' I call BS.
I don't hate adjustment. Nicolai's 'Mutator' system offers real, useful adjustments. It does potentially add to the complication, cost, and weight of the bike though.
I would argue that fli… oh bloody hell,
flip chips actually prohibit bold design by letting manufacturers play it safe. Funnily enough, I don’t really know what subsection of mountain bikers they’re appeasing. I believe people that decry progressive geometry will be recusing themself from a new purchase and half a degree won’t change that. I would also argue that people who have no interest in geometry won’t be put off by numbers that they don’t have any understanding of. What it is, in my mind, is something that will solely frustrate the person that does care. And what’s worse is that if you’re only just really getting into riding you’ll only appreciate crap geometry once you’re well down the line on a bike that suffers from it and, quite frankly, if you do have a bike that suffers from particularly dated geometry then half a degree will not butter the parsnips.
It seems to me as superficial as a tick on a spec sheet. Nothing more meaningful, nothing less. The idea of a new bike in 2021 offering 0.3 degrees of adjustment isn’t just taking the proverbial pee but rather holding the refuse to ransom.
You can never please everyone, but does a flip chip, pitting a slacker head angle and a steeper seat tube against one another, risk pleasing nobody?
A Bike at War With ItselfFor me, the biggest frustration lies in that often when you change the orientation of a chip to achieve the desired slacker head angle it inversely affects the desired effect upon the seat tube angle. Can I not have the head angle I want without my saddle going into the nosebleed section? I just don’t understand why you can’t combine the best of both worlds. I don’t see why you should have to choose.
You can, of course, slide a saddle on its rails, but here is where I would chime in that often, even on bikes with ‘progressive geometry’, I exhaust this option. I don’t think that I’m alone in this and it’s my belief that on a modern bike any fitting option should not be at its limit just to keep it in line with the very thing it claims to be - progressive.
I would say that the only time I’ve been happy to have a bike with a f-f-f-flip chip (that’s it, I’ve actually thrown up) has been when I wanted to experiment with the stroke length of my rear shock and I’ve been happy for the clearance. I would go on to say that the stroke length adjustment coupled with a Works Components angle-adjust headset made for a very versatile bike indeed. But that’s it. That’s the only time.
Not All Flip ChipsA bike I would suggest is tackling this issue with real verve and gusto is a bike like the new Stumpjumper Evo. Not only does it offer real adjustment, it does so while trying to keep each adjustment in isolation of one another. Personally I would take the term “isolation” with a pinch of salt, but it will leave other dimensions largely unchanged. I think this kind of bike is very important for a few reasons.
Firstly, it's a benefit for an increasingly educated consumer base. Secondly, it goes between two ends of the spectrum as opposed to offering two shades of beige that even Steve Jobs would find hard to distinguish. Thirdly, it offers a position that many would find too slack (hurrah). Finally, it’s got a pragmatic approach which is vital in changing the conversation. The extreme options, a la Pole et Geometron, have pulled the conversation of geometry kicking and screaming into a better place, but it’s the pragmatist who will actually offer an option that doesn’t intimidate the end-user and will, in turn, change the conversation for good. In my mind this is what geometry adjustment should be for, to help our bikes wield a greater element of versatility.
The 2021 Stumpjumper Evo uses something of a two pronged attack to take care of geometry adjustment, but it is the headset cup that really piques my interest.
I’ve ridden so many bikes that suffer from trying to be too many things to too many people, and it risks not giving anyone the exact thing that they want. It leaves you cherry-picking ideal traits from both settings. Even bikes endowed with very good geometry sometimes have got me asking why can’t I just have the head angle of the low setting with the seat tube angle of the high? Why must we jump through these hoops? It’s not as if the brand doesn't have control over making the bike. They can literally make a bike how they see fit. Why does the end-user always spot these things in five minutes on a bike that most likely underwent several stages of prototyping? Am I missing something?
So what do I want? Parsnips? Mullets? A mulleted parsnip? Perhaps, but moreover I would urge bike designers to place good geometry above arbitrarily adjustable geometry. To nail their colours to the mast and take more risk with bike design without being safe in the knowledge they can offload half a degree to the good if needs be. If they feel they must go down the adjustable route then at least give real options and real alternatives.
355 Comments
Kidding aside, engineers and designers battle with a ridiculous number of choices when creating a design. Often times, the options are endless and deciding on what works the best for every rider.. its not possible. It also seems as though the optimal design often colides with some issue that the typical rider never thinks about (manufacturing capabilities, stress concentrations, etc) If, the company has enough resources, you can develop and test different prototypes, attempting to "nail your colours to the mast" until your blue in the face. Doing so, eats up time, money, and lengthens the ROI. That's why Specialized has just a few adjustments and their geometry is spot on; they have the resources to figure it out.
How would I know? I'm a product design engineer and make similar decisions. Narrowing the target market by only offering one geometry has got to be risky business for smaller bike companies. So in short, I agree with @faul
The process X seems to be done right as well.
I think the same thing applies today. I have a V1 Ripmo and wish it had a flip chip so I could have slacked it from the beginning. I over-forked it by 10mm to get a little slacker. Yes, an Angleset would work well, but there’s only like one company in England that sells a angle headset worth a damn. And, most companies make XL’s with too short of a head tube so I’m ok with a little more front end height. Additionally, a flip chip may let me experiment because I’m mullet curious.
I’m all for companies selling with a flip chip so they can sell to the scared masses via the bike shop that’s also afraid of change while really having the setting that the designers all really want.
The comments: I like flip chips, they allow me to make a safe bike's geometry suit my needs by jumping through a bunch of hoops.
So you thinkbit would be better if manufactureres made bikes that suited less people's needs? I'm failing to see the downside of flip chips in this argument.
.3 of a degree doesn’t change anything, for anyone, at a recreational level, and lets be honest with ourselves, 99% of us are recreational users.
Design your bike, oven, operating system, whathaveyou..Hang your hat on that design as being the best that it can be, and stop listening to the knob turners about Koms they missed...
Be good to one another out there
I get your point but it sounds like the real problem is simply companies not building modern bikes.
2021 Spark: Head Tube Angle: 68.5°, seat Tube Angle: 73.8° (RC model 100mm)
2021 Spark: Head Tube Angle: 67.2°, seat Tube Angle: 73.8° (non-RC 120mm)
2013 Spark: Head Tube Angle: 68.0°, seat Tube Angle: 73.5° (slack mode)
2013 Spark: Head Tube Angle: 68.7°, seat Tube Angle: 74.2°
It's a decent compromise.
Also no more stupid 27.5 specific forks!
Figure out how to build a fork that takes both wheelsizes without adding to much bulk or height so I can finally put a 29“ wheel in!
Maybe flip chips in the front axle mount to switch between 27,5“ and 29“.
This would be my dream, that I’m able to run every bike a mullet or a full 29“!
No more need to buy a new fork when I want to upgrade my front wheel to 29“ and let’s face it, pure 27,5“ is the combination we’d opt for the least often.
Same bike, LOW (Pos. 1): 63.8 degree HA, 34mm BBD
To me, this bike actually flips between two useful positions. I run Pos.4/High for general purpose riding and it is still very capable while pedalling better and running into less crank strikes.
Pos. 1/Low is in park/downhill mode and it radically changes the way the bike rides. My flip chip is super useful.
With all the time you've put in on the new Altitude, do you think it would have a similar vibe if it were over-forked to 180mm up front?
Riding the two bikes back to back I definitely felt like the Altitude was just as capable riding big terrain, but it did lack some of the bike park comfort and smashability of the Slayer.
For proof, there was a day I was riding with my brother and he rode my Slayer and I rode my Altitude. Both felt similar, and we came across Remy's big drops that he always filmed and I hit them on both my Slayer and
Altitude with no issues and happy on both.
I read that in rich stir fry’s buck65 voice and it was perfect.
Spend time on your bike on the same trails and you should notice the difference... otherwise, why would we bother with tyre pressures; rebound and compression settings (etc).
Amen.
I like the brilliance of the Guerrilla Gravity Revved frame design.
www.thestar.com/news/insight/2016/01/16/when-us-air-force-discovered-the-flaw-of-averages.html
Have you check their new Spectral 29er.?
Modern geo on that bike
@Mazador And the Exceed looks ok. It’s not as progressive as the BMC bikes, but 69 HA isn’t bad and it has a steep enough for XC SA. Ironically, their hard tail is more progressive than their XC FS Lux, which is what I looked at recently after the WC bike checks. And I was wrong about 71, Lux is 70.
Canyon bikes always look like a good deal, but whenever I’ve shopped for one, they seemed behind a bit on geo. Glad to see they are getting updated.
Now, I have a Canyon Strive which has the shapeshifter in the rear which is a good start in this direction. However, it needs refinement. What you want to do is to run the bike like the enduro team does. Increase the shock lenghts to 160 mm and 180 mm back and front, respectively, and maybe add the ~10 mm spacer under the lower head cup. Also, you´ll want to punch the saddle as front as it goes (outdated seat tube angle).
The Strive out the box seems to have a climb mode and a flat mode. You can make it to sort of to climb/flat and DH. It feels great now, can send down the hills and also climb. I hope the next iteration will be closer to this and maybe have the modes further apart in characteristics. I wonder if someone has the time and effort to machine a custom shapeshifter link.
In conclusion, please start making bikes with "good" geometry AND two/three on-the-fly modes for climb/flat/downhill.
While the high/less slack mode with less progressive rate = 64.75 degree HA, 78 degree SA and 364 BBH.
And it's just one bolt so it can be changed trailside easily. Changes from enduro smasher to capable trail bike in a few seconds.
But like others have mentioned, I'd also like or prefer an adjustment that would allow for an easy mullet conversion.
Though on their 27.5 bike (Warden) which has the same flip chip... you can mullet it easily by dropping your front travel by 10mm and put the flip chip in the "high setting" so you essentially end up with a 160/160 mullet that has the same geometry as the full 27.5 bike in the slack setting with 160/170. That's what I rode last year and will probably go back to next year. Mullet is the way forward.
This is exactly my experience with bikes. The customer shouldn’t be the first level of QA. Get your game tight bike industry, you’re embarrassing yourselves.
Some bike brands, like Santa Cruz, make spare parts, bearings, and support readily available. Their bikes are well thought out and for the most part seem durable and easy enough to work on... They are also expensive...
Other brands seem to puke out a bike which might ride OK, but is riddled with odd design issues, has a million little grommets to put back together if you ever take the linkage apart, and seem to go out of their way to make it difficult to find parts and information about their bikes.
Since you have so much adjustment, have you tried any mullet variations yet? I'd love to see you and/or Jesse give it a go and document it on your new channel. You think Rocky would be cool with that? Here is my own quick synopsis of what I've been testing over the past two years:
1. Knolly Warden, full 27.5 with 170mm fork and 160mm rear travel run in the "slack" setting (won't get into specific numbers here) - super fun, maneuverable, rear-wheel-steery, felt really good in the air. Didn't like how much more work the front end of the bike was in really rough terrain (27.5)... little less stable at high speed... but cornered really well. Overall fun, but ultimate pace was slower than previous 29r I was on.
2. New Knolly Warden, modified from full 27.5 to a mullet with a 29" fork/wheel lowered travel to 160mm, 27.5 out back, put geometry in "high" setting. Lowering the front travel and putting the geo in high meant that even as a mullet it was basically the same geo as the full 27.5 bike set in the slack setting. This set up was awesome... 29 out front gave tons of confidence and grip and just rolled everything, good high speed stability, still had that 27.5 steerability and maneuverability yet seemed to keep 95% of the speed of the a full 29r. Then the cornering ability helped to trump the speed of the full 29r altogether. Also really liked it on really really steep and gnarly double black+ stuff... not having that 29 inch wheel out back feels so much better on that kind of terrain. Set my fastest times on this set-up
3. New Knolly Chilcotin 29r (which is basically the full 29 inch version of the Warden) set-up as 160 rear and 170 up front. It's a fast enduro smasher and I love it, but I've been wishing for that Mullet goodness from my last set-up, especially on the really steep gnar... and I don't seem to be able to match the speeds of my previous mullet set-up. Sure it feels faster in some scenarios, but slower in others... and all in all it's just a little slower and little less fun than the mullet... which it sounds like I will go back to next season.
Gnarvana: big travel, slacker HA, shorter reach, slacker STA
Trail pistol: short travel, steeper HA, longer reach, steeper STA
Not faulting GG for needing to work within geometric reality, but those relationships stop making sense after the HA part...
This is only a downside if you are looking at comparing the bikes based on their travel, not on the geometry or intended use.
If the Trail Pistol "fits you" from a short-travel-29er perspective (geo/intended use), then great. If it doesn't, then look for a different bike. However, if the Gnarvana fits you from a long-travel-29er perspective (geo/intended use), and all other aspects of it are agreeable, then it should be a contender. If not, same rule applies - look for a different bike.
Seems a little unfair to write the brand/company off based on the fact that their geometries are locked in based on wanting to use a universal front triangle.
To me, flip chips don't cause any issue if they are well engineered. I can't imagine that they cause much, if any, compromise to the bike itself, and they do provide a bit of tinkering adjustability.
I also am partial to 175mm cranks... but I think they are going the way of the Dodo.
The bit I'd like to see more adjustable is the rocker link. Cascade Components links don't make a bike "better" but they keep the stock geometry and do change the leverage curve on the suspension. That's a difference that can make a bike better suited to a particular rider (and rear shock).
The option of making it a mullet or adjusting the geo steeper is good. More versatility is better. You don't have to use it and it doesn't impede or infringe on anything. Also, you don't have to do a lot of hacks to the frame like putting in an angleset headset, offset bushings, or other hack to alter your frame's geo. Versatility in a frame is good.
Maybe not all flip chips are as noticeable but I enjoy mine and would flip mine for different days relative to the trails even if hadn't found the heavenly mullet life. Which to say-- is the good life!
But are you really upset about flip chips Henry? Or are you just upset that they didn’t build the bike with the geometry you want? Because reading between the lines, it seems like you think there’s a “right” direction and a “wrong” direction for these “adjustments” and you just don’t like that you can’t adjust it to the “better” position and leave it there. You can’t imagine that someone might do better with a steeper head or slacker seat than a big manufacturers trail bike, so these adjustments are only trade offs in your mind.
Which is great and all, but it sure is a long winded way of saying that bikes aren’t progressive enough.
But at the same time I agree with you. Of all the geo adjustments you can make - adjustable chain stays, angle sets, fork travel, seat post offsets - flip chips are the least useful. They’re fundamentally marketing gimmicks.
I’m strongly considering a hardtail with sliding dropouts and a press in headset with a helm fork. Seems like it would offer a tremendous platform to experiment with angles and chain stay dimensions before deciding what my next full suspension should be.
Also I love me some 4 piston brakes and I'll keep whinging about it until more powerful brakes are the norm.
Of course bikes are awesome now, and and every bike has a target rider, but it would be nice to hear “I just really didn’t have fun riding this and don’t recommend it at all” every once in a while instead of reading between the lines of faint praise.
Would probably be a decent article for Henry’s next rant. If there’s already an article on it that I missed a link would be much appreciated.
Some change is for the better for sure but not all will make you ride like Jesse melamed
But does it help a rider fine tune the geo of a bike to what they are used to or to the conditions where they live? Absolutely. I have known people who’ve moved and went from a slack geo to a steeper one for their new terrain.
In short, the author is short sighted and not seeing the bigger picture. I’d rather have the option than none at all. A lot of people would and it makes it easier for shops to sell people a bike.
That being said, I'm surprised at how different my current bike feels with a 1° slacker headset...super positive change.
Have a 2021 Evo and I actually do love the ability to tweak things between the headset cup and flip chip. Broke my 29er wheel so am running the bike in "Steep/High" setting. But with the 650b wheel, it is closer to having a 29er in the rear in "Slack/Low" setting. Perfect use case for me.
Also neat to have adjustable geo for roadtrips/traveling where I only want to bring one bike. I don't change my settings much here riding my local trails, but there are definitely places I travel where moving to a steep set up (65.5 degrees) would be rad for trail riding (e.g. Missoula, MT), but then being able to go super slack (63) for hitting Big Sky or Silver Mountain bike park on that same trip is a cool scenario for sure.
I want MORE flipchips for these scenarios!
The v1 Jeffsy had a flipchip, and I didn't feel much difference between the two settings. A flip chip isn't something I look for when looking for a new bike.
My partner also rides a Rocky and initially rode very 'light' on the bike. As she progressed she we moved it from steep to neutral as she pushed harder through the pedals/found herself on steeper trails.
Do it on a ~150mm full-sus and I’ll have a 63.5 deg head angle and 330mm BB for uplifting and a 64.5 deg HA and 342mm BB the rest of the time.
I would say that some modern bikes are just too slack for the riding around here, sacrificing cornering for stability. When we see pro riders steepening their head angles on bikes but using the low BB flip chip position that tells a story in itself.
Adjustable anything is only any good if you understand it or how to compare setting 1 to setting 2 alone with the suspension changes required when making the flip chip change.
The mind boggles at the choices sometimes.
Honest question is it even worth considering the effects of adjustments like these if running the bike in a non stock form?
What do flip chips do or do not do for MX setups for example?
I upforked my 2018 Hightower and the high setting felt way better. Before that I always ran it in low.
Awesome little feature at barely any cost to me or manufacturer.
There is a major time lag from when the bike's geometry was decided to when you see the final product... Once geo is locked, then the frame is designed and engineered, then the frame is produced, then the bike is produced (assembled) then it is shipped to distributors, then shipped to the shop, then finally seen by the consumer. So, that geo on a brand new bike that is not SPOT ON perfect for your up-to-date internet engineer? It was made at least two years ago.
Brands that are on trend with geo are absolute wizards at peering into the crystal ball, and/or maybe got a little lucky.
I do not see any reason to change that mid trail or btw trails;
Also
I like the idea with headset cups that several manufacturers are offering as well as shock mount chip to adjust bb height
Note; this comment was not posted by and AI bot
Where I ride, you are pedaling 99% of the time and pedal strikes are annoying.
Personally I feel the flip chip on the new Giant Trance X works pretty well and is noticeably different.
Some manufacturers implementation of FC is fairly weak, others quite useful. I've had both and am really impressed with the Ride9 & CS chip on my RM Altitude. These adjustments let me dial in the bike perfectly for me on my home trails, then if I ride elsewhere I can go slack or even shorter.
The changes are quite noticeable and I am very happy they exist...on this bike....some others not so much.
"The extreme options, a la Pole et Geometron, have pulled the conversation of geometry kicking and screaming into a better place, but it’s the pragmatist who will actually offer an option that doesn’t intimidate the end-user and will, in turn, change the conversation for good. In my mind this is what geometry adjustment should be for, to help our bikes wield a greater element of versatility."
The thing with the Geometron G1, is that you can call up and talk to them about setup, get the bike working for you. How many manufacturers offer this service? None that I can recall.
Where a lot of the manufactures go wrong is having adjustable head angle, but the same length chainstay on each size, which ruins the balance of the bike, depending on what their test riders rode.
My XL smuggler is 430 chainstays, G1 is 455 and Ransom Eeeeb is 465. Both the G1 and eeeb feel way better in the turns than the smuggler does and they both climb up steep inclines better,
Making the reach longer without doing anything else is just plain lazy, hoping that consumers get blindsided by the reach and head angle, without considering anything else.
Now, I have a Canyon Strive which has the shapeshifter in the rear which is a good start in this direction. However, it needs refinement. What you want to do is to run the bike like the enduro team does. Increase the shock lenghts to 160 mm and 180 mm back and front, respectively, and maybe add the ~10 mm spacer under the lower head cup. Also, you´ll want to punch the saddle as front as it goes (outdated seat tube angle).
The Strive out the box seems to have a climb mode and a flat mode. You can make it to sort of to climb/flat and DH. It feels great now, can send down the hills and also climb. I hope the next iteration will be closer to this and maybe have the modes further apart in characteristics. I wonder if someone has the time and effort to machine a custom shapeshifter link.
In conclusion, please start making bikes with "good" geometry AND two/three on-the-fly modes for climb/flat/downhill.
Once adjusted I don’t expect many riders will go to the alternative setting. Just enjoy the bike as selected.
...If you are a bit retro and don’t care for the modern super slack setting? ..... Flip it over and have a wee bit steeper feel. Nice.
By the time Henry has published 25 opinion pieces on PB, its servers will require more memory than YouTube — due to the commenting enthusiasm. There has to be a PhD in psychology to be winkled out of the PB comment sections.
The dropouts on my Stache have ~20mm of adjustment, but slammed back is the only option that works if I want to run 29x3.25" tires.
I've come across at least one framebuilder that offers sliding dropouts with 55mm of adjustment -- I'd love to see more options in the 50-70mm range:
www.erman.bike/en/blog/erman-sliding-dropouts
My point is that I get to experiment with different feeling rides without having to buy a different bike.
I don't give a f*ck about "bold design." I want design that works, and most of the time, being "bold" is no different than changing things just to change them, not because they are actually better.
Works look to do them for a lot of headtube sizes but you are stuck with high stack headcups which is why I don’t go there myself.
Buy the way, where went that Review/Video?
Really nice.
Using the slack and long chainstay ones makes it behave a lot like "modern" bikes
CASSETTE/REAR DERAILLEUR vs GEAR⚙BOX
My DH bike went into long wheelbase mode prior to the first ride and it's never going to change. My last DH bike came with an AngleSet and I never adjusted it (I got it quiet on the first installation and didn't want to risk making it creak by monkeying with it - plus I didn't think a 1 degree slacker head angle would make any substantive difference to my riding).
My Enduro bike went into low/slack mode before the first ride and has been there ever since. I don't plan to try high/steep, ever. It has a TALAS fork, which I use on some long firetrail climbs but mostly ignore.
I once had an XC bike with remote suspension lockout on the bars - I usually noticed about half way down the descent that it was really rough and then flicked it to 'on' so I ended up stripping the remote off and leaving it permanently on (in the heat of racing I can't remember such things).
I don't even play with fork/shock settings - get them right once and then get used to it. Adjust the rider, not the bike?
My point here is this article seems to really miss the point of having these adjustments. The idea of the most versatile bikes on the market not getting flip chips to help them shine in more situations is just rather... inept? There are too many silly points in this article for me to care to cover them all.
Been at this site for well over a decade. I normally keep this sort of opinion to myself, but jesus this article is just trash. Sorry for making one negative comment in over ten years. My bad!