Park and Ride Through the Dolomites

Wandering, like vagabonds, through the Dolomites, simply fulfilling a curiosity, ever more enchanted and fascinated whilst admiring the many summits, peaks, valleys, and even the sun itself. The smell of the grass and the freshness of the forests, enjoying the laughter of friends seated round a table in a mountain refuge, diving into a plate of pasta and washing it down with an icy cold Radler, a locally made sweet brew, which goes down a treat.



An entire winter spent studying maps, searching for points from which to link mountains and trails in order to test our abilities for adapting to different terrains. Time spent looking for hotels, checking opening times for the numerous mountain facilities, studying trails and their current conditions, taking care of the logistics while budgeting to keep down costs - including those unforeseen which always seem to spring up last minute. All this, together with the curiosity and fascination of the unknown were the elements and therefore essence of our trip; this characterized the planning phase of the Park&Ride project.



Park&Ride is not about looking for the perfect trail, but about rediscovering and living the mountain bike experience in nature itself. An adventure to share with your mates. Changing landscapes, terrains, towns and refuges daily. Parking the van, only to discover new riding locations which give sense to our collective and vast riding experiences. Planning includes studying the numerous bike parks in which to explore. Yet, I must also mention the unexpected walking trails and cycle paths which date back to the Great War, now abandoned and forgotten which added to the trip immensely, the sights which leave one breathless, speechless, even perplexed and stunned, questioning whether such places can and really do exist, also if the bad weather conditions helped contributed to this sense of surrealism.








The peace and quiet calms the mind yet the desire to go further insists. It is not easy to drag ourselves from the views. The sun gives colour and the clouds disappear making nature appear happy again after being submerged in rain for days. We tell ourselves we have brought summer to the mountains.


The different gradients are overcome by using the chairlifts, the distances by pedaling. The slopes and descents are long and immerse in the forest, ever more diverse are the terrains, the roots, rocks, counterslopes. We follow the trails, inventing nothing and respecting what nature has given us. Wandering through the mountains for hours, discovering corners of the world - unexpected in their vastness and magnitude. We feel no hunger, thirst or tiredness, everything seems strangely lighter all of a sudden.





The Lake Molveno welcomes us in the late afternoon after having completed the Bear Trail. We are sorry to have come to the end of the first part of the adventure but content that it could not have started better.


The second day begins with us loading the van with luggage and our bikes, we are on autopilot doing so which saves us time. The maps we consult are easy to use, and even bike repairs and general maintenance, rare as it was, was quick and painless. La Plose Mountain Bike Park awaits, yet first the summit must be reached. The Plose Refuge, at 2447 metres above sea level, has amazing views as we wander along the paths on our way to the summit. Unfortunately the trail we had planned to use to head back down the mountain was still covered in snow hence forcing us to use another more direct way to the Bike Park, another 500 metres further down. We were in awe of the quality of the track, the ride down was impressive and gratifying. Here we met fellow biker Stefan, a guy with whom we immediately found friendship and congeniality.







Pedaling up 2000 metres is initially tiring but gradually becomes enjoyable as the air entering our lungs brings us relief and pleasure. The animals free to roam in their pastures, confident yet never wary, leave us feeling serene, at ease, and the climb becomes an excuse for both the eyes and the soul to also roam free.














The next leg of the trip was to get to Riscone, a short and pleasant drive along the Val Pusteria valley. The Plan de Corones Bike Park hotel was where we stayed the night. By morning, Mother Nature had decided to surprise us with a sudden increase in temperature, granting us our first days of summer in the mountains.


Kronplatz is rather like a 'panettone' at 2275 metres above sea level, with a 360-degree view of its surroundings at the summit, one can see as far as the Austrian Alps. It is one of the first Alto Adige Bike.







The park amazed us with its perfectly designed trails, the diverse compressions which seem to challenge gravity itself; somewhat like an amusement park carousel. Letting go of the brakes gets easier as your heart seems to be suddenly catapulted into your throat! Perfectly formed curves, loops, and waves which almost suck you into their vortex. Some descents are easy to make the Garmin display drop to 2500 metres.
















The Kneipp path leads to an icy valley pool which, after a full days' riding in 35 degrees Celsius, stimulate our circulation and our senses. We immerse our legs in the cool, invigorating waters, walk over the smooth stones, stretch our muscles, and regain ourselves from our exhaustion.



We arrive in beautiful Brunico, allowing ourselves a relaxing stroll through the main street before heading on to the foothills of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, also called the Drei Zinnen, the three distinctive peaks.


Opening the windows in the early morning to such magnificent monoliths is something no words can describe but the view immediately transports us to another dimension. Having packed our climbing gear, some of us headed off for some easy climbing at the rock face adjacent to the hotel; some variation to the Park&Ride adventure which renders this experience unique, showcasing the potentiality and diversity the Dolomites offers visitors. All outdoor activities are possible and catered for. A prelude to what we were about to face the following day.







From Val di Landro at 1400 metres we skirt round the lake, make our way up to the Vallandro Refuge at 2040 metres, to then head to the summit of Strudelkopf at 2308 metres. Riding through the trenches, tunnels, and walkways surrounding the refuge leads us to picture what hardships they must have faced during the battles of the first World War. The Strudelkopf summit is truly breathtaking. We are as high as Tre Cime yet it seems almost possible to reach out and hold them. We see the Dolomite mountain chain, including the Dolomite Ampezzane, Cristallo peaks, and Tofane group, which surrounds Austria. We look excitedly down the trail awaiting us.










Val Chiara descends rapidly to Val di Landro. Stuck in a ravine created over thousands of years, we have basically no idea if this area is bike-friendly. Only part of the track is secured and considered safe. The only thing left to do is head on down it. We leave behind us an old WW1 military base-camp and adventure down the abyss to Val Chiara. What began as awe and euphoria at taking on a real mountain trail, soon has us thinking how careful we must be in view of the fact we have no trail expert amongst us and this particular terrain needs very technical skills for such passages with tight corners. The trail crosses a dry creek bed as it leads to new scenery. We are forced in part to continue on foot. Part of the track is exposed to the elements, the rest equipped with ropes, footbridges, and wooden steps. Somewhat disconcerting at times, we are forced to carry our bikes while ever watchful of the exposed rocks and massive drop under our feet. We come to a tunnel and see etched into a rock that the path continues normally ahead. A few more wooden steps before we are once again back in the saddle and on the trail.

The slope evens out quickly and we find ourselves sheltered by Val di Landro and recognise the rock face we had climbed the evening before. The sun, still high in the sky, the lush surroundings and the desire to continue encourages us onwards towards our final destination for the day Cortina D’Ampezzo.



















This bike trail from Passo Cimabanche, was originally the old Dobbiaco-Cortina rail track, last used in 1964. We are traveling over Dolomite history itself - over old bridges, lit railway tunnels to old, abandoned railway stations like the one at Ospitale.


Certainly this bike trail is one of Italy's most beautiful; it winds through pristine forests, crystal clean lakes and streams, and mind-blowing scenery. We arrive in Cortina, not the Cortina we are used to but still a sleepy village not yet awoken to the hustle and bustle of the 2016 tourist season.






Our guide is an old friend from Rome who, for decades has been riding round this valley and offers to take us on a long tour through the mountains surrounding Cortina. The gondolas and chairlifts are working, allowing us to reach heights easily yet still giving us plenty of opportunity to pedal down the long trails down to Le 5 Torri, (literally the Five Towers) Fanes, Cristallo, Tofane passing lakes like the Aial or Ghedina.
















The full course of the trail is almost 70 km and about a 4000 metre decline. It would take a lot of effort to forget such a memorable day. Leaving Cortina with heavy hearts we set off for the last stop of our Park&Ride adventure, Canazei.















The rain appears but we are not concerned for Saturday morning the sun returns to light our way over the long trails of the Superenduro circuit, quite wet but still beautiful. We are taking this day easy whereas many other bikers are busily trying out and perfecting their skills for the Superenduro race to be held the following day. Our intention is not to study the trails for the race but to really enjoy the Dolomites and the last leg of our Park&Ride adventure. Tomorrow we are homeward bound so we concentrate on fully immersing ourselves in the views and scenery these mountains, the summits and peaks, ravines and valleys offer us.





It is with fond memories today we recall these days, this intense experience. An experience necessary to better understand ourselves and perfect for inspiring and stimulating us. A life enriching experience. Despite the difficult moments, we chose to continue with our plan, safe in the knowledge that sharing this passion with good friends means overcoming any hardships.
Memories that shall remain with us for many lifetimes to come.


Words and Photography: Fabio Maraca\ Translated by Melissa Flynn

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