Tech Talks Presented by Park Tool is a monthly video series hosted by Park Tool's own wrench whisperer, Calvin Jones. The new series will cover the A to Zs of some of the most prevalent repair jobs, with the first episode tackling both tubeless tire installation and conversion in two easy to follow videos that will have you feeling like a pro.
Have you ever struggled to seal the bead of a tubeless tire? Had to wash sealant out of your hair or off the walls? Calvin is here to make sure that won't happen again. Tech Talks - Tubeless ConversionTech Talks - Tubeless Installation
Stay tuned for more mechanical how-to videos with Calvin returning on the last Thursday of every month to show you the easiest way to get the job done. Want to know more? Park Tool's how-to section
has you and your bike covered. www.parktool.com
a fetish inside a fetish
Side note for those wanting to get into bike repair or DIY your repairs. Save up and get yourself a complete toolkit online, you'll save a ton of $$ over buying them individually and a few hours on YouTube watching tech vids like this can teach you how to use tools you may not be familiar with.
I'll have to start upgrading if I ever get a newer bike with newer stuff since all my tools are geared for 26" 2012 or way older. as for @MaxAlary he's sort of correct. Automotive has Snap-On, bike has Park. I give props to Park as their selection seems second to none and they often are willing to provide a tool that no one else does. @sino428 is also correct...the "non-mechanical" tools (those with no moving parts) are typically ok if you go no-name (cassette removal, chain whip, that sort of thing). There are also lots of ways to diy a perfectly acceptable and usable tool if you only need it once in awhile and that money can be put toward something wayyy better (diy race removers and such are an example). However, I like my Park truing stand, and if I needed a precision tool I'd consider budgeting the money for a Park piece.
If you start upgrading your wrenching tools with these vids and experience doing it you'll find a lot of satisfaction and confidence in it. You'll know your bike better and feel better riding it. Do not, under any circumstance, feel bad about jacking anything up. Be patient, but mistakes will happen. Even in shops mistakes happen. Enjoy @fercho25!
Before you fill with fluid and stem, I instal a tube to set the bead. I find you waste a lot of fluid if you go straight to installing fluid first. Than you carefully remove tube on one side of tire while maintaining bead on other side. Than instal stem, close tire carefully to keep other side set, than fluid. I find your chances are better of instant inflation and bead set.
Did you notice he used gorilla tape as rim tape. I only use that. It's the strongest and stickiest. Cheaper and easier than Stans, Orange, etc.
Also when it's time to add additional sealant, do it thru the valve rather than breaking the bead and having to re-seat your tire.
I've tried doing it a couple of times with tires right out of the box, and it's hit or miss whether the tire will seat because of how stiff some of the tires can be when new (even with my compressor setup).
Take the valve core out on the presta valve to seat the bead. Lots of flow! Then place core back and smooth sailing! I have used tubeless schrader valves. I just drill the rim on a wide rim, of coarse...
If you put the lesson learned in the video in the title it makes it a lot easier to search when I'm 3 beers deep working on my bike and have finally decided to give in and ask the internet for help.
I'm well impressed with the Maxxis Evo stuff.. Tight not too tight, and you can almost seal them with a hand pump!
1) If you don't have an air compressor try to get two CO2 canisters to blow the tire on the rim firmly. Especially with ghetto tubeless setups I have found a single cartridge is never enough. I have also had success using a cartridge then quickly slamming a pump on there and rapidly pumping.
2) I generally don't use the expensive tubeless valve stems. Cut a small square or rubber out around a presta valve from an old tube. This works much the same but, if your rim allows, the valve can actually be put under the gorilla tape preventing those annoying leaks around the valve stem. I have never had valve stem leaks on a setup doing that but have had several on my actual tubeless setup that used tubeless valve.
3) If you have fresh folded tires puts them on the rim with tubes at 50PSI and leave them at least overnight (or a few days). I have even used tubes for a couple weeks of riding then gone tubeless. This moulds the tire bead to the rim shape and helps a LOT with sealing.
4) Put more Stans in after you finish seating the tire. Your success may vary but I usually end up with about the recommended volume of sealant covering my face/hands/house by the time I manage to get the stubborn tires seated. To do this I use cheap drugstore syringes and go in through the valve if possible, or around the bead with a straw if not.
#2 and #3 are vital, number 4 can be avoided by installing presta's with removeable cores
Check this out. Seems to work in the short term for sure, I don't know what it would do to the sealant longer term.
P.S. I use Mavic Crossride disc wheels and Conti Xking tires.
Buy latex mold builder (16oz), i use the one by castin craft which is $18-50% off michaels coupon=$10
Add the latex (immediately) to 16oz of antifreeze otherwise it dries fast, I use a wisk to make sure its well dispersed, remember if you care about it being non toxic, use pg/eg free antifreeze, I don't myself
Fill the castin clay container halfway with cold water and shake the piss out of it to remove leftover latex, do this twice to make 16oz of water,
Add 16oz of slime $8 (save the container as its awesome to use for application) and a small tube of .6 oz glitter $1.29 from micheals, in a container that can hold at least 64oz, mix the shit out of them. Now store them in air tight containers with the least amount of empty space possible.
You should have $40-$60 of sealant for $20 or so, I call mine TUBELESS JEWCE, and its super green.
no water all antifreeze- now the stuff never dries, so your tires will weep coolant
No slime: this works like stans, its super thin and gets everywhere, also dries up quicker.
I live in socal so i want it to last, but not weap out the sidewalls forever. So far for non- tlr tires, kenda has the least sidewall leaks, maxxis is middle, and specialized tires are the worst.....sooo bad I have to use 6-8 oz of sealant
PinkBike and ParkTools Thank you very much)