Tech Talks: Tubeless Conversion, Presented by Park Tool - Video

 bike tool, bike porn?

a fetish inside a fetish

 This guy is a badass. Hell yeah.

 honest newbie question. is it actually worth it to get a park tool kit for house repairs over a b list manufacturer that esentially has the same stuff only cheaper? the up argument I always get for more expensive tools is that they last longer but I dont think just me and my bikes will represent much abuse.

 @fercho25: In my opinion it depends on the tool and how much you are going to use it. The Park Tool stuff is real nice but often times the cheap stuff will work just fine too. If you are working in a shop or doing repairs for a team or something like that, you likely want to buy the higher quality tools. But if you are only working on your own bikes, you likely might only use certain tools a few times a year. I mean how often are you switching out cassettes or changing bottom brackets, things like that? Its not all that often and for just occasional use the B list brand is going to work just as good.

 @sino428: +1 to that. I would also suggest you look into your local auto parts store or wherever you buy automotive tools for most of the wrenches, pliers or anything that is not a bike specific tool. In my honest opinion based on my 10 years as a car mechanic plus doing my own bike repairs, I just really think Park tools are greatly overrated and overpriced. I've never seen a park tool that is made half as well as it's automotive counterpart.

 Agreed. I've moonlighted as a basic tech in a box store for awhile and while I can get deals or use shop equipment, if you can find a kit or set somewhere it's worth it over piece-meal. You may think you don't need them all but if you start doing more of your own work or want to experiment with new parts you'll see the how nice it is to have a tool instead of the pain and frustration of not having a tool.

I'll have to start upgrading if I ever get a newer bike with newer stuff since all my tools are geared for 26" 2012 or way older. as for @MaxAlary he's sort of correct. Automotive has Snap-On, bike has Park. I give props to Park as their selection seems second to none and they often are willing to provide a tool that no one else does. @sino428 is also correct...the "non-mechanical" tools (those with no moving parts) are typically ok if you go no-name (cassette removal, chain whip, that sort of thing). There are also lots of ways to diy a perfectly acceptable and usable tool if you only need it once in awhile and that money can be put toward something wayyy better (diy race removers and such are an example). However, I like my Park truing stand, and if I needed a precision tool I'd consider budgeting the money for a Park piece.

If you start upgrading your wrenching tools with these vids and experience doing it you'll find a lot of satisfaction and confidence in it. You'll know your bike better and feel better riding it. Do not, under any circumstance, feel bad about jacking anything up. Be patient, but mistakes will happen. Even in shops mistakes happen. Enjoy @fercho25!

 @MaxAlary: I was talking more just about the bike specific tools but you are definitly correct. Non bike specific things like wrenches, pliers, cutters, etc can usually be found at similar quality for a better price at your local auto or hardware store.

 @fercho25: A lot of Park stuff is made by Bondhus. Find them on amazon

 hey thanks for all the great advice guys.

 The Stans Syringe works great because you can measure and when you push the sealant in it keeps all the good particles. I do what you said though, eyeball it and dump it straight into the tire.

 Yup, I always inflate first to get the beads seated before adding liquid.

 Rather than using a tube, just remove the valve core and inflate with a compressor. Not having the core in let's more air volume enter rapidly. Once the bead is set take the syringe and add your sealant of choice (Cafe Latex is pretty fantastic) through the valve, then reinstall the valve core. Easy and clean setup 99% of the time.

Also when it's time to add additional sealant, do it thru the valve rather than breaking the bead and having to re-seat your tire.

 I'll add one for for those DH tires...my Magic Mary's (I've done a few sets now) always seem to be pretty stiff after sitting in the box for a while. I don't have tubeless specific rims, and I've had great luck, but what I end up doing is using a tube to inflate the tire and let it sit overnight in the house...about 60 psi. This lets the bead of the tire take shape, and ensure that all of the tape seats with air pressure/force of the filled tube. Then when you go to use the compressor to get the tire to seat, it airs up and seats nicely because it has some shape to it..

I've tried doing it a couple of times with tires right out of the box, and it's hit or miss whether the tire will seat because of how stiff some of the tires can be when new (even with my compressor setup).

 @timkoerber: Amen - a compressor isn't all that expensive, and comes in handy on any number of things. If you have a garage, a compressor is one of those things that over its (rather long and usually totally trouble free) lifetime will make you glad you spent the reasonable price to purchase it (you can get a decent compressor for under $100). Especially if you ever want to us things like nail guns, don't want to go to the gas station to check/inflate your car's tires, clean stuff out with high pressure air, etc. To me, the list of good things to have in your garage includes a compressor, a shop vac, a power washer, and of course some basic power tools. YMMV...

 @krashDH85: I don't know - with a compressor, it took me all of two minutes to mount Maxxis DHFs. Pull on the rim, remove valve core, inflate (they seat rather nicely with a couple big pops), inject Stan's (I'm partial to the 2 oz bottles over the whole syringe and cup mess - they're reasonably priced in 12 packs), swish around, install valve core, inflate, done. Probably partially a function of the way they make their beads (shop techs have told me that Maxxis tend to mount/seal easily; I can't remember the next time I've even needed a mounting level to get on on or off), and probably also a matter of the rim (WTB).

 @krashDH85: As a snowbird wintering in AZ from MI I have had to replace several tubeless tires and find it difficult if not impossible to get the bead to seat with my 12 volt DC carry-along compressor, not enough volume or pressure to push the bead out to seat properly. I can first seat the bead with a tube and remove it after a while, then of course installing the tubeless stem and hope it seats again. If not, I peel the bead off a bit on one side and put in the sealant. Then I just use a CO2 inflator, which does seat the bead well enough to hold air until I can get it properly inflated with my 12V compressor. I know CO2 is not recommended with at least some sealants, but when you need it you need it and it gets the job done. I believe a large part of the problem is inherent to the stupid presta valve, which does not allow much flow through it, compared to the superior Schrader valve. If I could find tubeless Schrader valves to fit my rim holes and with the proper countour to match the drop center of the rim inside, bye bye presta. Back home I do have a real compressor with lots of flow and pressure so no problem.

 @bart882:
Take the valve core out on the presta valve to seat the bead. Lots of flow! Then place core back and smooth sailing! I have used tubeless schrader valves. I just drill the rim on a wide rim, of coarse...

 @FunctionalMayhem: Thanks, next time I will try that, not sure why I didn't think of it. The chuck on my portable 12V compressor is for Schrader and the remaining part of the presta should depress the little actuator on the chuck. Then I could use the syringe or old Slime bottle (from tube days, and Slime actually works pretty well with tubes, not so much with tubeless) to install the sealant before returning the core to the presta stem. Actually though I think the problem is not enough volume of air quickly to force the beads against the rim for at least a rudimentary seal. As an aside I have been using Continental Revo Sealant because of Trail King tires, and I find it easier to clean up than Stan's; it seems more water-soluble.

 Can be so annoying. Used to find it worse with Conti's/Schwalbe. Them bastard just don' wanna seal, yet Bonty, Maxxis & Michys are bang on!

 @steviestokes: Honestly Bontrager make the most simple and fool proof system out it's a joy to work with on a daily basis

 @Benread: Amen to that. That snap-in rim bed is a dream. but even just the tyres on a tape system are good!

I'm well impressed with the Maxxis Evo stuff.. Tight not too tight, and you can almost seal them with a hand pump!

 TBTTOT- Throw Back Tech Tuesday On Thursday

 While i disagree with #1 (co2 isnt good for sealing purposes

#2 and #3 are vital, number 4 can be avoided by installing presta's with removeable cores

 If your tape is shifting side to side, then try the correct width tape. I was fighting substandard tape for a long time. It's way easier with the right stuff.

 @husstler: exactly! This point is not covered very well in most videos or walk through articles. WTB recommends 30mm tape for their i25 wheels. Good luck finding that locally. And when you don't, the kid at the shop will try to convince you of the different ways narrower tape will work. I used e13 and it went sideways in a strange way. I won't blame the tape, but just want to reinforce the point that the taping procedure is often more complicated than what is blown through in the videos.

 @Moto4fun: Like anything that involves a bit of craftsmanship, the better mechanics, whether pros of do-it-yourselfers, pay very close attention to, and sweat, the details. Laying the tape in there nicely and pressing it down thoroughly while inspecting same very closely will pay long term dividends. Also, the preparation of a used rim is paramount to getting the tape to stick properly--get it spotlessly clean first. I used to work as a tradesman (autobody repair and painting) with a couple of guys who had a lot of comebacks. I used to say "there was not enough time to do it right, but there is always enough time to do it over, when a customer complains.

 @Vudu74
www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJl_Z8198JI
Check this out. Seems to work in the short term for sure, I don't know what it would do to the sealant longer term.

 @jeffreyelias8: I'd rather buy a new tire than deal with the inevitable mess that comes with doing anything involved with glitter.

 There are some dudes getting crazy on mtbr with commercial latex, anti-freeze, glitter and lord knows what else. Google homemade tire sealant and you'll see some of their creations. They claim it works much better than mtb specific sealant.

 @Vudu74 I always put around a tablespoon on glitter in with my sealant. It's helped seal some bigger punctures that wouldn't close with just the sealant. Not too messy either; the glitter usually dries "inside" the sealant if you will, so it all comes out at once when it's time for a fresh dose.

 ..

 @chadgmail: doesn't orange already have glitter in it? they use little rectangles of silver plastic, certainly looks like glitter

 @WestwardHo: I posted my recipe below

 use a split tube. that way the valve and rim strip are one.

 I've has this problem on every tubeless setup I've done with gorilla tape. To solve it, I just bought some rubber cement and I put some all around the rubber part of the valve stem and the tape, making sure the seam is airtight. So far it's worked every time. Works best if it is allowed dry overnight. Done this on 4 wheels.

 @alloydix: I have the same issue every time. Yours sounds like the intelligent solution. I solved the problem by tightening the valve down harder using the collar ring.

 I do gorilla tape twice around the rim, three times over the valve. Then for extra valve sealing I buy some tiny rubber o-rings at the hardware store for the inside and outside of the valve. I actually ripped the rubber right off a valve trying to tighten it enough to stop leaking once. After that I just started doing more tape and o-rings.

 The cheapest and easiest fix I've found for this is to wrap some PTFE tape around the valve stem before doing up the nut

 The soda bottles being a storage reservoir for a big shot of air quickly to blow the tire out enough to seat the beads? If so ,a great idea......

 no

 no- you have a bad rimstrip

 @axleworthington: thanks il get it sorted

 hahah. Shop rates are always higher after you try it yourself first

 I'm sure that helps a little if the tires are new but there is no reason not to just use your current tires if that's what you have. I just changed over a wheelset last night and remounted a set of tires that had about 60/70% tread left with no issues at all. If you clean up the bead properly before you really install them it should not be an issue.

 Not true, you can run non tubeless tires tubeless. I've been doing it for years now, just a little harder to seat the bead an you need to put in a bit more sealant an coat the inside brushing it around and use a air compressor.

 You're not as cheap as i am

 @jewpowered: #heebspeed