What if you were given free rein to design your dream bike from scratch. What would the geometry numbers look like? Would you create the longest and slackest beast imaginable, or would you create something a little more conservative, a bike that doesn't need to be ridden as fast as possible to come alive?
Pinkbike's editors answered those questions, and the results are below. Of course, there's more to a bike than numbers alone, but it's still fun to daydream about what your ideal off-road machine would look like, even if you don't have an engineering degree. It's an ever-so-slightly more advanced version of the doodles many of us drew in our notebooks when we were supposed to be paying attention in history class.
It's also interesting to see the similarities between the numbers, even though there was no discussion among the editors before they made their picks. There's only 3 degrees difference in head angle between Levy's ideal short travel bike and Paul Aston's 180mm monster truck. The same goes for seat angles too - they're all around 77°, although Aston's the outlier at 82°.
Take a look at the numbers, and vote for your favorite.
Mike Levy
Tech editor
Height: 5' 10''
Inseam: 33.5''
Ideal Geometry
Wheel size: 29''
Travel: 120mm rear / 120mm front
Head angle: 66.5°
Seat tube angle (effective): 77°
Chainstay length: 430mm
Reach: 460mm
Fork offset: 44mm
Mike Kazimer
Tech Editor
Height: 5'11”
Inseam: 33”
Ideal Geometry
Wheels: 29"
Travel: 130mm rear / 150mm front
Head angle: 64.5°
Seat tube angle (effective): 77°
Chainstay length: 440mm
Reach: 470mm
Fork offset: 44mm
Daniel Sapp
Tech Editor
Height: 5' 9.5"
Inseam: 33"
Ideal Geometry
Wheel size: 29"
Travel: 140mm rear / 160mm front
Head angle: 65°
Seat tube angle (effective): 77.5°
Chainstay length: 432mm
Reach: 455mm
Fork offset: 44mm
Richard Cunningham
Tech Editor
Height: 5'7"
Ideal Geometry
Wheel size: 29"
Travel: 140mm rear / 150mm front
Head angle: 66°
Seat tube angle (effective): 76°
Chainstay length: 450mm
Reach: 440mm
Fork offset: 44mm
Brian Park
Head of Editorial
Height: 5'7"
Ideal Geometry
Wheel size: 29"
Travel: 150mm rear / 160mm front
Head angle: 64.5°
Seat tube angle (effective): 77°
Chainstay length: 435mm
Reach: 440mm
Fork offset: 44mm
Sarah Moore
Content Manager
Height: 5’7”
Inseam: 27”
Ideal Geometry
Wheel size: 27.5"
Travel: 150mm rear / 160mm front
Head angle: 65°
Seat tube angle (effective): 77
Chainstay length: 430mm
Reach: 450mm
Fork offset: 37mm
Paul Aston
Tech Editor
Height: 6’1”
Inseam: 33"
Ideal Geometry
Wheel size: 29"
Travel: 180mm rear / 180mm front
Head angle: 63.5°
Seat tube angle (effective): 82°
Chainstay length: 470mm
Reach: 500mm
Fork offset: 44mm
Are we going to look back in 5 years and roll our eyes?
485 Comments
He would beat Nino in DH comp today. Discuss!
Lenzerheide, Leogang: defo Semenuk
Ft William: possibly Nino
Andorra, Val Di Sole, LaBResse not sure, but I lean towards Semenuk, especially LaBresse, Andorra with big jumps.
Crankworx Air DH, Nino on Spark, Semenuk on Ticket FS: Semenuk wins.
XC and Downcountry crowd VS WAKi
Down Country - when riding chicken lines becomes a new form of mastery... ride through every hole and every bump on the trail and be proud of it!
As for physical stretching and physical fitness I feel I can run most college boys butts into the ground any day on a physical activity. Whether it's huffing 12 foot sheets of 5/8 drywall up to the 10th floor of a condo or push-ups and Pull-Ups. I'm still running 6 Minute miles and eat clean Whole Food. Haven't been to a fast food joint in over 20 years. I never back down from a challenge And when everybody runs away I am the guy that goes to see what everybody is running from.
So would that be Outlaw Country?
Hold it down for the rest of us, Paul!
At 5'6" I was thinking: "No wonder they mostly like 29ers -they're all so tall"
in nearly 30 years of riding, I've never sat on a bike and though "this is too long". 500mm reach is almost acceptable. Almost.
MTB is the new golf.
Anyway, average-height people should be riding size M bikes, right? That's what medium should mean; sized for a medium-sized person. How many of you 5'9 midgets are riding Ms, vs L or more?
My bad though, that figure is for the USA population. Where most bikes come from
You might just live in an area where whatever’s in the water prioritizes physical growth over, I don’t know, brain capacity
And, if you wanna call it midgetry, that's fine, but just know any car, airplane seat, roller coaster, counter top, work bench, door knob, elevator button, bar stool, bed, sleeping bag, tent, couch, chair, table, desk, whatever you can think of, is probably designed to fit me just about perfectly.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qleee_1yYHQ
enjoy!
woman's attraction towards you! :-)
In memory of Protour...
preach, brother.
My height: 5'11"
Wheel size: 29"
Travel: 135mm rear / 160mm front
Head angle: 65°
Seat tube angle (effective): 75°
Chainstay length: 430.5mm
Reach: 473mm
Fork offset: 44mm
Bars/stem: 770mm/50mm
I voted for Kazimer's numbers... pretty close to my own.
Fugitive LT, baby!
BTW, I don't want your 40lb aluminum 29er DH bikes. Too fat.
That said I'm not sure why everyone who doesn't want one has to chime in. If you don't want one don't buy one.
Oh I forgot, because Pinkbike.
It doesn't surprise me based on what I see people bringing to the local Xc loops.
Regarding bands; that is a poor analogy. A lot of times the quality of music a band produces turns to shit once they become commercial/get signed. See it all the time. In sports too. People work their asses off to get paid then say "f*ck it" and just cash the cheques.
But people should call it 650B, it’s originally a french size, not an imperial size. Then again, if they had chosen 650A from the start then there would have been closer to a middling wheelsize. 26” (ISO 559 mm), 650B (ISO 584 mm) vs. 650A (ISO 590 mm), 29” (ISO 622 mm). Sorry for going Sheldon Brown on you
I tested several bikes (up to 510mm reach) but never anything close to Pole or Geometron which I would give a go in a heartbeat but definitely too slack for my riding.
Wheel size: 29" (2.5/2.6)
Travel: 130mm rear / 150mm front
Head angle: 66°
Seat tube angle (effective): 76°
Chainstay length: 445mm
Reach: 540mm
Fork offset: 42mm
Bars/stem: 800mm/40mm
Nope, it's not Yeti SB130 I copied, but bespoke @Robotbikeco. R130.
As far as strictly from a bike fit perspective, I want a 200mm dropper but otherwise I find the fit spot on, small enough that its playful and fun to pop off bonus lines, but roomy enough that when speeds pick up and trails straighten out I have room to move. I could picture having a longer DH bike but not a trail bike.
What about you guys? What's your local trails like? Does that affect your feelings on this?
I almost got one, sadly had to cancel order due to several reasons. I regret it to this day.
Also Starling can make front frame with reach up to 535mm what should be enough for anybody but really the tallest among us and for those there is Nicolai's Geometron.
For me the definitive (super)bike is RobotBikeCo with its 3D printed titanium lugs and carbon tubes that can be made to any lenght.
I'm almost exactly your size, in the Northeast, and on a first gen XL Bronson. I haven't had too much problem with tight stuff. I've always been curious about later gen Bronson's but am a bit worried that it will feel like a bigger bike on my local trails.
* Even with a 500mm reach, I feel way too cramped with a STA over 74.5 deg. It is awkward to ride because my knees bang the bars in tight uphill corners and the saddle is too far forward when dropped.
* I ride road bikes quite a bit and like my mtb position to be fairly similar. I don’t ride a TT bike anymore so I don’t want my mtb to feel like one.
* I don’t like the forward weight bias of steep STA bikes. I feel that it taxes the fork too much and rear wheel traction suffers.
Sure, on steep climbs it can be a struggle to keep the front end down but it is more balanced everywhere else especially on rolling, pedally terrain.
BTW, I ride an XXL HTLT and an XXL Tallboy and really like the sizing and geo of both.
@bogey: This is an issue climbing?! I can't imagine that would ever be the case going up a hill with my understanding of physics...
chek the adats..
Seat Tube length : M370mm L450 Xl 480mm
Chainstay Lengh : M456mm L45xl206mm Xl456mm
Bottom Bracket Drop: M20mm L20mm Xl 20mm
Head Tube Length : M110mm L120 mm Xl140mm
Head Tube Angle : M62 L62 Xl62
Seat Tube Angle : M77 L77 Xl77
Frok Axle To Crown: M555mm L555mm Xl555mm
I already have to slow too much on tight corners with the 1260mm wheelbase that I currently have. I’ve adapted my riding style to dive I’ve into the corners a bit sooner but beyond that, bikes are getting too long for my favourite trails.
I prefer to feel my saddle when dropped all the way down so I don’t want it to disappear by using a super long dropper. I have room to run a 200mm drop but will only go as far as my current 170mm. I firmly believe that these long droppers (200mm) only make up for bad form. If you look at good DH riders they actually run their saddles quite high.
Thanks for trying to Internet-fit my bike for me though!
Also I’m 6,3 bikes with 500mm + reaches feel horrible in my opinion.
Front 29”+ 160mm
Rear 27,5”+ 130mm
Head angle 52,5
Seat angle 100 (-10)
Reach 550
Chainstay 500
Awake as fuk.
www.instagram.com/p/BsB3gT3FgNn/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=9jqihu5yussl
Liquor in the front - poker in the rear.
Holy sh#t, that rendering is golden!
Next tell us which water bottle size is your favorite. 12 oz, 16 oz, 20 oz, or stainless flask?
Artisanal cypress wood enduro™ goblets only.
would i need some help?
Chris Sugai, at the time owner of Niner, is quoted in Feb 08's MBA saying:
"Twenty-nine inch wheels will supplant 26-inch wheel bikes by 2017. In ten years, all mountain bikes sold from $1000 to $1500 and above will have 29-inch wheels. There will be holdouts, of course, and 26-inch wheel bikes will be sold at places like CostCo and K-Mart, but the 29er will take the place of the 26-inch bike as far as the average mountain biker goes."
Kidding aside, I've no worries about 26". I've no intentions going up to the bigger wheel sizes and now that UCI has finally dropped the ban against dissimilar wheel sizes in competition, more (smaller) racers will run 26" in the rear again. Big tire and rim manufacturers have kept on offering their newer models in 26" and they'll continue to do so.
Seat tube angle ? Yes it has one.
65 degree HT angle
Longish stays for that stable DH ride.
(Paul comes back from the toilet) 'did i miss anything guys?
Errrrr.....
Very true Paul. Just goes to prove the point that eveyone is different and there are plenty of different types of “mountain biking”.
For smashing down DH runs as fast as possible 470mm is your choice. 440mm max would be mine. And I’m 6’1 too :-)
Weight distribution, front/rear centre length ratio is by far the most important geo number.
63deg HTA
460mm reach
415mm CS
400mm seat tube
120mm fork travel (no rear suspension)
don't know the seat tube angle (nor do I care)
26" wheels
The geometry of my BTR is basically their geometry for the large 26" model, but I wanted to the seat tube down to 400mm. I've never done it, but I wanted to be able to have the saddle at XC height should I ever want to. That requires the seatpost to extend 300mm above the seat tube. A rigid 400mm allows that (typically 100mm minimum insertion) and a fully extended dropper seatpost these days can also reach that. I usually have my saddle lower than in these pictures though. I only had it this high to be able to clamp the seatpost in my workstand. My other requirement was that I wanted to have the top tube so low that even with cranks level, I could have my knees above the top tube so that it feels pretty unrestricted. So yeah, these were the only modifications I made to the geometry. For the rest I trusted their standard geometry and I'm loving it the way it turned out
@Heywood165 : You've got number 165? I've got number 166
Inseam: 32.5'
Wheel size: 29''
Travel: 130mm rear / 150mm front
BB height 338mm
Head angle: 66.3
Seat tube angle (effective): 76°
Chainstay length: 430mm
Reach: 455mm
Fork offset: 44 or 51 - cheapest I can find on pink bike
Travel :160 front, 160 to 140 rear
Wheels: 29F(or larger) - 26R
headtube: 65º
chainstay: 350mm (The radius of a 26'' wheel is 330mm)
seattube: 76º
reach: I don't really know but 440mm seems ok (meant to be run with 30mm stem, or something shorter)
BB height: 330m
-Gear box driven
-Very high pivot
-Low stand over, low top tube, short seat tube, meant to take advantage of 170mm dropper posts
-Low antisquat meant to take advantage of shock lockout on the climbs, but at same time not compromising bump absortion on the descents
-Meant to be run at 10%-20% sag in order to maximize the amount of "usable" travel, and also keep the chainstay quite short at sag
-Short offset fork
-35mm rim's 2.35-2.5 tires
Inseam: 31.5"
Ideal Geometry:
Wheels: 29" front / 27.5" rear
Travel: 170mm rear / 170mm front
Head angle: 64°
Seat tube angle (effective): 77°
Chainstay length: 435mm
Reach: 460mm
Handlebar Width: 780mm
Stem: 35mm
Fork offset: 44mm
27.5" in the back gives you more pop over jumps and obstacles, less chance of going OTB (better 'plowability'), more butt room when hanging out over the back tire, quicker acceleration (all things being equal, you have a lighter and stronger rear wheel).
ONLY 3 degrees? That's like 15 generations in the Theory of Bike Evolution.
Are you paying attention bike manufacturers!? Steepen those things up! TIA
Some of us also pedal on lesser gradients between climbs and descents. I'll stick with something a bit less steep with a little push out on the chain stay to compensate for the climb. 64 to 66 degree HTA though is nice and 130 to 150mm rear travel is good too.
I must throw my leg over a Pole to see what all the raving is about to understand. Can't be to hard when spending most of my time freezing, my nuts off in the land of Santa....
Somebody in other article comented that too steep a seat angle isn't power efficient, as it forces you to use weaker groups of muscles, but hey,what does he know,right?
430mm chainstays
27.5” wheels
The mtb industry needs to "innovate" i.e. produce new models to make the old stuff look obsolete and force the people to "upgrade"... 76-78 seatube with is just laughable....
Place the crank forward at 3 o'clock. The front of the knee needs to be vertically aligned with the pedal axel. Place the knee further than the pedal axel and you damage it. Fact.
Also, when riding in steep terrain with big climbs you spend a lot of time in the saddle pointed up 10-25% grades. Much steeper climbs than most road rides. So roadie fit rules don't really apply.
If you ride flatter, more rolling terrain, or descend in the saddle for some reason, I guess these angles wouldn't be for you.
but the fork is sagging as well
and that assumes the front and rear travel are equal. on a 150/130mm bike, the difference is smaller
i'm not arguing 77 is too steep, btw.
Yea a lot depends on what your riding too. I like a shorter reach / wheebase for lines with lots of jumps, and longer reach for speed / gnar
27.5 or 29" wheels
65* HTA
425mm reach
415mm chainstay
Travel depends on the trail. If I could just pick one, it'd be 160/150
Sarah pretty much nailed what I like (only I like SUPER short chainstays).
Yeah, those 2mm over 430 are key!
First bike in 25 years of riding which feels actually the right size and rig. Even with 650b
#keepf*ckingpedaling
Sarah's sounds perfect for me at 5'9", 33" inseam.
470mm reach is a must for L (up to 190cm rider)
120mm to 130mm this is the main stream do it all for the majority of riders and rides. Mike Levi rules.
"Best" geometry of today may change tomorrow.
but yesterdays geometry is still fun to ride, and will be a subject to argue about nothing instead of spending our time riding.
Wheels: R 27.5", F 29"
Travel: R 155mm, F 160mm (any longer of travel and there is so much weight transfer when you pedal that it's inefficient, regardless of rear suspension design)
Head Tube Angle: 65 degrees (works great on my Foxy 29 with the -1 headset)
Seat Tube Angle Effective: 76 degrees (not sure about this one, currently running an effective 76.1 and that might be too steep for me)
Chainstay Length: 435mm
Reach: 495mm (my Foxy at 490mm is just a hair short for my tastes)
Fork Offset: 42mm (mo better than 44mm)
BB Height 347mm (chunk requires some decent clearance combined with 170mm cranks)
Fun thread!
5'11" 33" Inseam, All Mountain/ Enduro style riding with some Park capability.
My ideal bike would be:
Wheel Size: R 27.5", F 29"
Travel: R 155mm, F 160mm (any more travel and the weight transfer sucks up the efficiency)
Head Tube Angle: 65' (running this now on my Foxy 29 and it's perfect)
STA(e): 76' (running this now on my Foxy and it MIGHT be a bit too steep for me actually, still deciding)
Chainstay Length: 435mm
Reach: 492mm (about 5mm longer than my L Foxy currently with the -1 headset would be perfect)
Fork Offset: 42mm (mo better than 44mm imo)
BB height: 247mm (if you can't pedal through chunk, what's the point. Yah I'm looking at you SB130.)
I'd prefer a progressive, yet very pedal friendly Linkage Ratio suited for a high quality coil shock. I would not buy a bike that 'can work with either air or coil' as that compromise is no good. Should offer 2 linkage lever arms, one linear for air and another progressive for coil)
That would result in a fantastic all around bicycle imo.
Fun thread and I like hearing everyone's ideas. I must say, lots of tall dudes around here! Makes some things tough for you guys.
I like mint chocolate ice cream and also salmon, so if I stick those together then I should have something even better.....right?
I expect a little bit more from the bike savvy folks at PB, at least a bit of a disclaimer that acknowledges that bicycle geometry is more than the sum of it's parts.
Travel :180F -180R
Wheels 29F - 27.5R
headtube: 64 deg
chainstay: 430mm
seattube: 73 deg
reach: size small 425mm
*gear box driven
*low stand over / low top tube (easier for no foot cans)
* high pivot
BRING IT!!!!!!
Travel: 120mm rear / 140mm front
Head angle: 66°
Seat tube angle (effective): 75°
Chainstay length: 415mm
Reach: 460mm
Fork offset: 41mm
My numbers would probably look like...
Height: 5'5.5 / 166.6cm (Had my height measured with a laser if you're wondering...)
Reach: 440mm
Chainstays: 445mm
HA: 64*
SA: 78*
Travel: 140mm/160mm
Director of Old Guys on Bikes
Height: 5'8"
Inseam: 29"
Wingspan: 29.5"
Wheel size: 29"
Travel: 150mm rear / 160mm front
Head angle: 66°
Seat tube angle (effective): 75.5°
Chainstay length: 435mm
Reach: 470mm
Fork offset: 44mm
BB drop: -21mm
BB Height: 350mm
Wheelbase: 1210mm
Handlebar width: 780mm
Ideal Geometry for my 5'8:
Wheel size: 27.5"
Travel: 140mm rear / 150mm front
Head angle: 65,5°
Seat tube angle (effective): 76
Chainstay length: 430mm
Reach: 440mm
Fork offset: 52mm
Wheel size: 650A (because new standard is due...) but will make do with 650B for now.
Travel: 130 rear, 140 front with option to change to burlier 150 mm fork for AM duties.
Head angle: 65,5 to 67 with angleset and depending on fork travel.
Seat angle: 74,5 to 76 depending on flip chip, fork travel etc.
Chainstay length: variable 428/436.
Reach: 432 or 444, not sure which works best until tested with different stem lengths. Whichever is more agile and quick steering will win me over.
Extra: rider size specific linkage position/suspension tune. Like Cannondale.
These variations are all possible to design without too much added weight or complexity, except for the fork change, see Rocky M. or Liteville for example, and would make it possible to adapt the bike from somewhat hilly flatland were I will ride most, to more All Mountain for vacations.
Looking forward to see what magic Liteville have done on their new 301 Mk 15 to be released next month. However, the tt mounted linkage is looking dated now so please Liteville, join forces with Dave Weagle and make a premium aluminium “501 Mk 1” with an Orion-style linkage on.
New skool = height (mm) / 3.813
Old skool = height (mm) / 4.067
Not serious but someone somewhere has a spreadsheet with body measurements, riding discipline and magic plugin numbers, it’s the geek out way.
Strong pref for 29'ers there. Hope PB holds the results.....and is still in business....for 5 years and "reflects " on the results and then-contemporary geo.
Wheel size 29x2.5 F, 27.5x2.5 R
Travel 150mm F/R
Rear center 440mm
Front center 820mm
HA ~62d
BB Drop ~40mm
Everything else juggled/tuned for rider fit
- STA 77-82
- Reach 440-540
- Stack 630-670
- ETT (whatever you're used to)
- STL (max seat slammage without clearance issues)
- Headtube length (tuned get the stack, reach, and ETT balanced)
Rather than a wide/flat aero position, I want a taller "A-frame" or diamond position that makes the seated position closer to the standing position, having the handling characteristics optimized for a more consolidated center of mass. Stack is increased to get the grips closer to level with the seat.
40mm BB drop results in a 315mm BB height if calculated by the rear axle (710mm tire diameter). Suitable for a AM HT, but better make that 20mm for a 150mm FS (335mm BBH). With the front axle, it'd be more like a 335mm BBH (750mm diameter).
It's like saying, "those computers are just a fad... I'll stick to my rolodex & land line"
Wheel size: 29''
Travel: 120mm rear / 130mm front
Head angle: 66.5°
Seat tube angle (effective): 75°
Chainstay length: 432mm
Reach: 460mm
Fork offset: 44mm
I think i need to buy a Giant Trance 29...
I would probably play around with reach and chainstay a bike because I am a tall freak.
Fully agree! For me it is not the shoulders but i like having a little better pedaling platform on trail bikes.
It seems like people with an XC/AM background think they need to lean out forward in order to climb. They used to do this with long stems. But, the industry decided that short-reach dirt jumper/freeride/downhill stems look cooler the steering handles better . . . YET they needed the bike to still have the lean-out-forward feel, so they lengthened the top tube by 2 -3 inches and shortened the stem by 2-3 inches.
www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Frames,7/Transition/Double,2794
My ideal bike geo
29"x2.4 front 27.5x2.4 rear tire
~20mm bb drop
~13.4 bb height
1700-130 talas fork travel
37mm offset
160mm rear travel
438 reach
64 head angle
462 chainstay length
610 stack
100mm headtube
slammed low stem
177.5 cranks
800mm handlebar 7x3* bend
50mm stem
77* seattube angle
15" seattube length at least 13" deep
this is best loop/endo angle for not friggin tall guys also maintaining some agility with talas and limited but sufficiently roomy reach
Do i want to ride my bike fast and do cool shit? Yes
6' 1" with a 30" inseam
My 2016 Large Kona Explosif 27.5 works great!
So PB, do I get a job? =)
Chainstay: 445mm
HA: 64°
SA: 79
170mm travel front
150mm travel rear
29er
But, I think a 29/29 is better if you know the trail and can position yourself for what you know is coming up.
Buying bikes is analogous to buying clothes: I'd like to know that ex.: someone else who is of my height, chest & collar circumferences, and sleeve length wears a small, when buying an ex.: Arc'Teryx shirt or jacket, or a medium, when buying a Fjallraven shirt (and that Patagonia's current sleeve lengths do not work for me).
Why do I care so much about fit? Most shirts' sleeves are too short for me, when I reach outward & upward. I work in construction and hate having a ton of space between my cuff and my gloves which ex.: allows shavings or concrete dust to fall into my shirt and end up in my waistband, where it irritates me through the day, as I hustle. I hate a short jersey or jacket sleeve when I ride, for similar but different reasons. And I'd like to buy a reasonable minimum of clothes, and minimize wasted fuel & shipping costs.
Regarding bikes, I find the cost of shipping in the hundreds of dollars to be prohibitively expensive and to be avoided, and I prioritize a great fit for agility, which is among the top reasons I enjoy riding. ... and have waited *so* long to replace my obsolete 26" hardtail.
Therefore, I appreciate the above piece, within the set of articles released by the PB staff. Knowing contributors' specific body dimensions, along with their tastes expressed in their articles, helps me get clearer on whose preferences are likely to help accurately inform my rare buying decisions.
All that said, I'd like to see more arm-length, spine & inseam measurements in the article above, toward helping me correctly & easily buy a bicycle without having to travel all over creation to put my hands on the very few & specific models which are of serious interest to me.
*tips hat*
500mm reach
34” inseam
Hope it’s not to big haven’t built up yet
#26isntdead
Wheel Size: 27.5"
Travel: Front 170 Rear 160
Head Angle: 64.5
Reach: 470
Chainstay Length:430
29mm rear
For 29s obviously.
You need wider for 27.5" imo.
Travel - 160mm DVO Topaz Factory/R 140 mm DVO Topaz factory.
HTA -65
SA- 77
CS- 420
Reach- 470.
+all Shimano XT M8000 Brakes and DT.
5700$ / obo
Just.Ride.Yar.Bikes.
27+
66 ha
76 sa
430 cs
430 reach
50 bb drop
I'm 5'6
Chainstays: 443mm
HA: 63.5°
SA: 77°
BB: 333mm