PNW Components Launches New Pebble Tool

 You could put it in your downtube, but you'd have to remove your fork or BB to get it out...

 You could grease it up and shove it up your down tube!

 @chileconqueso: You could probably fit multiple in there

 With all the smooth rounded edges, I can imagine the perfect little hole to shove this into.

 @neatoneto: shhh, that's my secret.

 You have to buy either a Santa Cruz, Trek, or Specialized for that.

 need to rename it the PNWallet

 Sure you can, if you run out of SWAT holes, there's still you tubeless tires to fill!

 @seraph: use an angle grinder DIY

 I have been thinking about a chamois liner hydration pack for those winter outings

 @flipoffthemonkeys:
The Gere gear, for up there and out here.

 We're supposed to use our pockets now?

 Stores through your headset

 You could store it in nature's pocket.

 It would fit in the Specialized SWAT stem and be a better replacement than the standard tool as it has the Dynaplug.

 @Bustacrimes: it would not fit...

 @neatoneto: internal routing is noisy though.

 I first read that as new pedal tool and thought "that's not a very good place to store a tool".

 "Fixing your bike trailside without a tool is like trying to wrap a burrito without a tortilla."

I think you're missing the point. This isn't better than other multitools, it's just better than no tool, or a handful of cheesy meat.

 The OneUp tool can be purchased separately, has a 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, T25, and only weighs 60g.

 With all these options available these days, I don't know who would choose a product like this one. Aside from the allen sizes you mention (I need 8mm for my rear axle, so pretty essential) I also need Phillips or flat blade to play with the adjustment screws of my rear mech (Shimano Zee).

They do have some fancy names for the variety of colors though. Try that with Park Tool. And yeah, people have different priorities apparently.

 The colors are pretty!

 @VtVolk: Todd is Captain Obvious

 @VtVolk: I'm a vegetarian but I can't argue with your logic. This tool would be about as good as a handful of beans and rice for a large portion of typical trailside repairs.

 @stella10: McGuyver would disapprove of your limited ingenuity when it comes to fixing typical trailside repairs. I'm no McGuyver mind you, but I'm sure he could use that to cook up some amazing (and tasty) tire sealant. Try that with your Abbey Tools socket wrench.

 Tool looks nice! I like the rounded corners. I believe all SRAM RD bolts (limits and b-tension) are 3mm, so 2.5 is less needed, but if Shimano needs that size then maybe this becomes a SRAM only tool? Oh, let the flaming begin. I can't recall a time where I've needed an 8 on the trail in my 20 years of riding.

 @garrettstories: Ive needed 8 on the trail going back to the days of splined BB/cranks working loose also more recently FSA , Race Face SRAM all have had cranks with 8mm and Ive had problems with nearly all!
Having said that Id gladly ALWAYS run Shimano in preference and happily do away with carrying the 8mm!


...if it wasn't for my pedals ...damn

 Nor adjust rebound on SIDLuxe shocks, unless you're running a SID fork with the world's stupidest removable rebound adjuster.

 @VtVolk: That is illogical. A tool that doesn’t work for what you need it for is worse than no tools, because it weighs more and costs more than no tools.

 Agreed. To me if you're carrying a multi-tool it should be able to get you off the trail. Blackburn Big Switch is a solid solution. Soft case. Can stick a couple tire levers in with it super easy. And tucks into a tool strap with a tube and a C02 set up super easy.

 @garrettstories: I think some road RDs from SRAM use 2.5mm

 @GBeard: my one up doesn't have a 8mm ?

 @Elgaucher: Yes it does. The 5mm side by side with the flathead tool acts as an 8mm together.

 @VtVolk: There's no way this is better than a handful of cheesy meat...

 @GBeard:
And the tools themselves are longer on the one up. A lot of the tools on this thing look too short to be useful in many cases. Also, that's what she said.

 @GBeard: you seem to know a fair bit about multi tools do you know of any that is super cheap and can fix most things on a 3 hour ride. I currently own one that came with a bike from bikes online with basic stuff.

 @GBeard: have you ever tried it? I use my EDC quite a lot at home, just because it's already in the bike (and my tool kit is a mess), but I've never had a good reason to use the 8mm. Intrigued to know if it's any use

 @vinay: since swapping back from the kiddy trailer axle to the original on my bike I now need 2 different allen keys to get the wheels off my bike. Why can't bike companies agree on using the same sandards?

 @CustardCountry: Ask SRAM and Trek - I bet you their marketing team will say it's new innovations that sets them apart. So, when everyone is using metric size hex keys, they would go and use Torx configuration.

 @CSharp: It wouldn't hurt if nearly everything would be T25. I think it could be done strong enough, even for my rear axle. Magura actually tried to go that way with their brakes, also used it to install the front axle and stored the tool in the front axle. Thinking of it though, I don't think it could be done to use it for rear mech adjustments (H/L screws etc).

 @MTBER12: I don't know that much I just own a OneUp tool. If you need a chain breaker maybe the Crankbrothers M20 other people mentioned below, if not the OneUp works for everything I need it to. Although I don't know what "super cheap" means to you, if $30 is too much check Amazon.

@mountainsofsussex: It works enough to use in an emergency, I wouldn't use it at my house as my primary tool.

 @vinay: The thing that gets on my nerves about these new standards is like the American stupid standards with the likes of Philips (cross heads), Robertsons (square heads), and flat heads screwdrivers. The sizes of these tools are like #1, #2, #3, etc and I have no clue as to what sizes and their actual names and which fit what screw heads. Allen or hex heads finally came out with actual sizes that can be measured accurately. Then, comes Torx again where the point-to-point measurements have no clear indication of what size you need based on the Torx number other than grab one that might fit the star hole. If only tool makers would all go with the metric system and go with whole numbers or in 0.5 increments of millimeters - makes life so much simpler rather than using fractions that are hard to figure out immediately.

Anyway, I just use one tool I bought for under $8 on Amazon. Then, I carry the necessary bits for hex and Torx. Total weight is probably around 130g but who cares. It's all the adjustment tools you need without spending all that money that's hardly seen. Spend the money on beer - makes more sense.

 @MTBER12: it's not super cheap (£18 in UK) but the Topeak Hummer has everything you need, and I've used and abused mine for I guess 10 years, and other than a broken tyre lever is still perfect. Just have to watch out for the nuts holding it together gradually coming undone if it's stored in the bike. Though one of the tyre levers has a little hex tool to do it up again

 @CSharp: Admittedly it may be hard to measure a Torx head to find the required tool. You need the inner diameter in tenths of a mm, by the way. But then again, does one actually use a caliper to measure a bolt to find out which allen key you need? At least for me, I just know. Or I try and if it is the wrong one, I pick the other tool. That's what I like those three way hex tools for, for working at home (though Crankbrothers also has some nifty portable versions of those). Either way, as for Torx, on a bike it typically is T25. Unless it is something really tiny like the reservoir cap bolts of Magura disc brakes (pre MT series). That said, I did once get it wrong. My Shimano Zee crankset uses T27 chainring bolts and I damaged a T25 tool trying to remove them. I replaced the bolts with aftermarket bolts, obviously. No idea why Shimano went with T27.

Personally I don't like using loose bits for my portable tool. But indeed I just stick to some basic folding tool with the allen keys, T25, cross and flat blade and that's it. If it is too small, you can't hold it. If it is too "complete", I feel it gets cumbersome to hold and rotate. I prefer my chainbreaker and tire plugger as separate tools. The plugger I use I can just jam snugly into my steerer from below. Always faster than having a plugger integrated in the multitool. As for the chainbreaker, there is no point being able to be able to pull such a tool in less than five seconds anyway.

 @vinay: what's the plugger tool that you use?

 @VtVolk: This one from Maxalimi:
www.maxalami.de/MaXalami-Basic-Tube-tubeless-repair-kit

If you shove it into the steerer from below with the black rubber cap facing down, it stays put and the contents can't fall out (as they're above the rubber cap). At least it works for me. I've got a Magura TS8 fork with a standard tapered 1 1/8 to 1 1/2 steerer. My steerer is fairly long (as the headtube is already 150mm) so maybe I could even install that One Up multitool (the one that only holds the tool, not the expensive one with the full system) above this. Haven't tried that yet. Maxalami also has a system that goes into a hollow crank axle if you prefer that and/or if your steerer is already occupied: www.maxalami.de/MaXalami-Twister-20-Tubeless-Repair-Tool with www.maxalami.de/MaXalami-Revolver-plug-storage

 @CSharp: secret to Torx heads is to always grab the driver a size bigger than you think the bolt head is. Also, 98.6% of the time if it’s a Torx on a bike…. It’s a T25. Unless it’s not, then it’s a teeeny T10

 @adriemel83: Well yeah, unless you've got the chainring bolts of a Shimano Zee crankset. These are T27 and will bend the teeth of your T25 tool.

 how anyone would buy anything else than an M20 blows my mind

 @jdkellogg: M17 for 10 years

 The M17 is the only Crank Bros product I've owned that has lasted more than 10 minutes in UK weather. MK1 Mallets? Bent and seized. Candy pedals? Dissolved. Cobalt wheels? Bent and seized, Joplin? Dead.

 Could not agree more. A chain breaker is the difference between a 10 mile hike and a 5 min stop to repair your broken chain. I've broken 2 chains I can remember and was pretty happy to have an extra quick link and a chain breaker

 My thoughts exactly. In my experience, 80% of trailside repairs that require tools are flats and broken chains. Chain breaker 2-8 hex, screwdriver, tubeless plugger, those are esential to me for a multi tool.
And yes, I also own an M20.

 Yeah agreed on the chain breaker. I have an older model Lezyne Rap II CO2 and it has done everything I could need. Although the new Rap II 20 Tubeless looks pretty good since it adds a plug tool.

 Nah. Need the 6mm for fixing flats with a tube, or tightening loose pivots just enough to make it home.

 Fox Rear shocks use 6mm for their high speed adjuster.

 Not sure why Shimano switch to 2mm for the 12 speed derailleur. Their 11 and 10 speed uses 2.5mm bolts.

 Manitou Hexlock front axle is 6mm

 all my bikes be using 6mm for axles

 oh yeah, axles. then I want 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 (opposite the 5 so it can be extended for leverage), t25, maybe 2.5mm.. SWAT EMT is close, just swap the flattened partial 8mm (or the flat head), for a 2mm, and probably a 2.5mm could fit too, and it's golden.

 My Deity pedals use 6mm hex, front/rear axles too.

 He gets it

 Wolftooth made a mini one that's a bit cheaper too. I like that wolftooth tools are flat so im not as afraid of falling on them in a zipper pocket.

 The WolfTooth 8-bit pack pliers are the benchmark for me. I usually combine them with the encase chain and tire tool and that will cover pretty much any issue on the trail.

 @FrankS29: Thats what I have been running for seasons now and it's been amazing and doesn't take up room in a pack like you would think. Plus with 8-bit tool you get leverage.

 I read a tolerance test for allen tools once (it was a while back) and Silca came out near top. I got an IAK Nove soon after and love it!

Also most mountain bikers have a load of old allen sets around the place broken or whatever. Just pick a nice small bodied one , take it apart , find your old bits and customize it completely to what you need most on your bike.

It's dead easy you just need the bits to be roughly same length and have the right diameter for spindle.

 @BentonFraser: I actually bought a set of folding mini allens (standard, metric and torx) took them apart and reassembled a tool smaller than this one with every bit I needed and it only cost me $6.

 Have a look at the Crankbrothers M20, it's got a plug tool.

 I usually just buy the one on sale, with all the tools on it I need... But, as I am old-fashioned and wear a hydration pack, I have plenty of space to put it... gets harder, when you wear a fanny pack and wanna use the storage of your downtube.

 What's wrong with Dynaplug other that it's expensive?

 @schu2470: I didn't indicate anything wrong with it, just not my preference for multi tool. A solid set of Allens and chain tool if offered is all i'm after in a MT......but yes that you mentioned it, they are expensive AF!!! and Im sure if we read through the comment history on DynaPlug we'd defiantly find a ton of gripes why they might suck TBH.

 same