Starling Releases the Roost Mixed Wheeled Hardtail
On the complete opposite end of the spectrum from their recently released Sturn single-speed downhill bike, Starling Cycles has launched their first hardtail with unique build features - the Roost. Known for steel framed construction, the Bristol brand continues the theme, however, this time the slender tubes get the special stainless treatment. You might also notice that the wheels are of mixed proportions and the geometry works with fork lengths between 120 to 160 mm of travel based on your ambitions but is optimized for 140-millimeters.
Starling says that the Roost is made for anything from all-day affairs to bouncing around your local turn tracks and is not intended to be a mega-slacker, monster truck-style hardtail. Mixed wheels do encourage the bike to be more responsive and the wheelbase isn't gargantuan, nor is the head angle overly slack.
Starling says that the Roost is made for anything from all-day affairs to bouncing around your local turn tracks and is not intended to be a mega-slacker, monster truck-style hardtail. Mixed wheels do encourage the bike to be more responsive and the wheelbase isn't gargantuan, nor is the head angle overly slack.
Starling Roost Details
• Handmade stainless steel frame
• 120-160 mm fork
• Wheel size: 29" F / 27.5" R
• Head Angle: 64º (w/ 140 mm fork)
• Seat Tube Angle: 76º
• Chainstay length: 425, 430, 435 mm (size specific)
• Sizes: MD-XL
• Price:
• Frame only: £1,016.67
• starlingcycles.com
• Handmade stainless steel frame
• 120-160 mm fork
• Wheel size: 29" F / 27.5" R
• Head Angle: 64º (w/ 140 mm fork)
• Seat Tube Angle: 76º
• Chainstay length: 425, 430, 435 mm (size specific)
• Sizes: MD-XL
• Price:
• Frame only: £1,016.67
• starlingcycles.com
Frame Details
Steel is the unanimous choice of material to build hardtails from due to its vibration-deadening characteristic. The narrow diameter tubes also decrease the resonance and can make for a less "pingy" feel from chattering bumps on the trail. Designed and tested in the UK, but hand-built in Taiwan, the Roost shares design elements to Starling's other full suspension bikes, like the tube which forms the chainstay yoke. It also allows for tire clearance up to a 200 mm rear rotor with an IS mount and massive 2.8" tires, should you wish to go for larger size rubber.
Standards of today's frame specs are found on the Roost too, like Boost rear hub spacing, 31.6 mm seat tube diameter, and a ZS44/EC44 headset combo. Outside the frame tubing, the cable and brake lines run externally with the usual stealth routing for the dropper post entering the frame near the 73 mm BSA bottom bracket junction. Other tack ons include a single water bottle mount and ISCG tabs if you wish to run a chain guide or skid plate.
Geometry
Three sizes are spread widely with reach numbers ranging from 440 to 475 and then up to 505 mm, which are said to fit riders standing between 167 and 193 cm. The mixed of 29 and 27.5" wheels runs throughout the size range where we see a stretch in chainstay length of 5 mm per size, starting at 425 mm.
The head angle is set to 64º with the intended 140 mm travel fork but there is the potential to run anything between 120 and 160 mm to suit your appetite of agility or aggression. The seat angle rests at a reasonable 76º, which isn't too far away from progressive numbers of today's standards, mind you, along with the head angle, this will steepen a touch once the rider settles the fork into the sag more than on a full-suspension frame.
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God that is bad design.
@DJ-24: Yup, that's aluminium. Was probably easier/cheaper to get a custom machined part there.
Joe from Starling here. Just recovering from last nights Christmas drinks and quite suprised to see all the comments about the yoke design.
The chainstay to BB junction on a hardtail is super tricky to design in order to get the right clearances, allow for big tyres and be structurally sound. The design evolved directly from the Staring full suspension bikes which solve this area with a simple elegant tubular yoke. It seemed obvious just to copy the the solution across. The design gives us everything we wanted.
The yoke is connected to both the seat tube and the BB via two small machined parts, so it's plenty stiff and strong. And everyone at Starling, and everyone who has seen and ridden the bike thinks it looks great. But I suppose it's different, so bound to split opinions!!
None of us have seen the FEA, none of us have ridden it, and I doubt its meaningfully heavier than other designs you've seen.
Okay, but that doesn't change the fact that this is a downright poor design. All that leverage and torsion is on a single weld at the bottom. I would not be surprised to see complaints of cracking and breaking at that weld.
Being different is cool, until you start doing it with an inferior design.
Can I hire you to help me engineer my bikes?
I do have a question- when in the smallest cog in the rear, is there enough chain clearance? The photos don't have a chainslap protector, and if I put a VHS slapper tape on the chainstay, the bumps are rather tall (which makes them work so well, in my opinion).
It'll run a 30T.
From my armchair that tube on the Starling looks unnecessary since what gives it clearance is the elevated CS. For stiffness it could have a normal bridge if the CS went all the way to the ST. But if they decided to elevate the CS for clearance, maybe they should have gone all the way above the chain. As it is, it not only looks bad but will definitely have issues with the chain on the smallest cog.
Interesting you say it will definitely have issues. The bike (and several samples) has been ridden and raced extensively, we have had no issues.
This also looks like a great spot to put tools while keeping weight really low.
I bought one of these, and its super heavy; it feels like two of the all-time-greatest Crank Bros multitool, and it bent after a year of use....
The bike’s out of my price range, and if I was spending that much on a HT I’d get a Curtis (Starling and Curtis are both local to me) as I’ve lusted for years. Lol.
I do like the shiny stainless steel though.
Maybe they should even thread it (being steel) and have an extra little spot for tools or something.. Or maybe a flashlight? Hmm.
For sure armchair, might work just fine.
The point of this design is to maximise certain ride characteristics, without cost getting out of control. You can 3D print steel, and probably tune the desirable ride characteristics, but then this frame would cost double and its already not a budget steel frame (although I don't think outlandish, given its stainless steel and the cost of raw materials and shipping has close to doubled in the last two years)
Looks nice as a whole though, will sell I’m sure.
I am commenting about its aesthetic, not material and I didn’t literally mean it was made from leftover parts doofus.
Stanton Switch9er frame made in the UK costs £940. The Taiwanese version is £649.
We deliberately do one thing on each press release just to wind up PB commenters! Upside down Ohlins decals on Spur, Bottle Bosses on Sturn, Backwards brake on Roost...
I'd ride it, though to be fair I'd ride almost anything. Bikes are fun, Starling is cool.
-Walt
But I thought the point of mixed wheels was extra clearance for long travel rear suspension and/or a shorter rear centre?
Out of interest, since this one says it's hand made - are any frames out there *not* hand made (ignoring that hideous robot-welded city bike from Holland)?
www.pinkbike.com/photo/16069110
On flat ground, riding around the neighborhood with the kids in the trailer, its a bit steep. You get used to it, and you can slide the saddle back too.
on the trail its perfect. My trails tend to be winch and plummet tho. It feels ballpark the same as a fully with a 78 degree STA.
Not bashing the bike, the frame is gorgeuos.