Maintenance
With the layout of the Superfoxy the shock sits right in the firing line of debris, and the frame shapes around the shock and lower link collect dirt and mud constantly. So, it's best to keep an eye on it to not have the important working of the bike cycling through mud and grit. There is enough space on the uprights to fashion a mud guard though, and protect your investment.
Working on the bike is fairly easy, with most of the pivot bolts using a 5mm hex tool, although the lower link pivots need to be tightened with a larger 8mm for the axle as they use a wedge system to lock the pivots in place. But it’s fairly easy to whip through most of the important bolts on the bike to check they’re all tight. The rear triangle to upper pivot bolts, however, need to be tightened from both sides. But with the main frame blocking access to the inside bolt head, you have to remove the shock to tighten that pivot.
There's a brilliant user manual that provides you with exploded views and full part numbers for all the pieces should you need replacements, with lots of the pivots having a kit for all the bearings and hardware associated with them. It also states all the bearing sizes you need for the bike. The upper link bearings for the trunnion mount and seat tube pivot use C-clips to keep the bearings from wandering on their seats, so do make service a little fiddlier. The rear triangle to upper link connection also uses a double row of bearings separated by a washer too.
The link itself is pretty wide, and while I experienced only a few issues when riding from the width, it is in your calf and knee real estate and might cause more problems if you’ve got bigger legs than my bean poles. The shock runs on 22.2 x 10mm hardware and the lower shock bolt is a little soft and started to slowly round out the hex head over the course of the test, needing some careful torquing so as not to completely destroy it while still having it tight enough.
A full strip down without undoing the brake or gear hoses is possible and the user manual is also colour coded to show you where to apply grease and thread locking compound along with torque settings. But the overlapping nature of the frame and links, especially down by the BB does make it a bit fiddly sometimes and a pain for those of us with larger digits and less patience.
Our test bikes stick-on down tube protector covered the BB drain hole, and so the frame easily filled up with water and held it in the frame, with a comical sloshing noise when you moved it around. It's an easy fix but something to watch out for on your own bike. Ideally the main frame internal cables need foam over them to stop the rattling. You can push excess cable inside and then clamp the cable routing parts, but over time the cable tension releases and the bike becomes noisy again.
With the layout of the Superfoxy the shock sits right in the firing line of debris, and the frame shapes around the shock and lower link collect dirt and mud constantly. So, it's best to keep an eye on it to not have the important working of the bike cycling through mud and grit. There is enough space on the uprights to fashion a mud guard though, and protect your investment.
Working on the bike is fairly easy, with most of the pivot bolts using a 5mm hex tool, although the lower link pivots need to be tightened with a larger 8mm for the axle as they use a wedge system to lock the pivots in place. But it’s fairly easy to whip through most of the important bolts on the bike to check they’re all tight. The rear triangle to upper pivot bolts, however, need to be tightened from both sides. But with the main frame blocking access to the inside bolt head, you have to remove the shock to tighten that pivot.
There's a brilliant user manual that provides you with exploded views and full part numbers for all the pieces should you need replacements, with lots of the pivots having a kit for all the bearings and hardware associated with them. It also states all the bearing sizes you need for the bike. The upper link bearings for the trunnion mount and seat tube pivot use C-clips to keep the bearings from wandering on their seats, so do make service a little fiddlier. The rear triangle to upper link connection also uses a double row of bearings separated by a washer too.
The link itself is pretty wide, and while I experienced only a few issues when riding from the width, it is in your calf and knee real estate and might cause more problems if you’ve got bigger legs than my bean poles. The shock runs on 22.2 x 10mm hardware and the lower shock bolt is a little soft and started to slowly round out the hex head over the course of the test, needing some careful torquing so as not to completely destroy it while still having it tight enough.
A full strip down without undoing the brake or gear hoses is possible and the user manual is also colour coded to show you where to apply grease and thread locking compound along with torque settings. But the overlapping nature of the frame and links, especially down by the BB does make it a bit fiddly sometimes and a pain for those of us with larger digits and less patience.
Our test bikes stick-on down tube protector covered the BB drain hole, and so the frame easily filled up with water and held it in the frame, with a comical sloshing noise when you moved it around. It's an easy fix but something to watch out for on your own bike. Ideally the main frame internal cables need foam over them to stop the rattling. You can push excess cable inside and then clamp the cable routing parts, but over time the cable tension releases and the bike becomes noisy again.
225 Comments
It does look gorgeous. I wish they made a 150/140 27.5 one with a more normal geometry ...
www.pinkbike.com/news/mondraker-foxy-carbon-rr-sl-review.html
I love my foxy xr carbon 27.5 and got it for a seriously good price back in January about 40% discount.
it's great with the super deluxe on the rear and lyrik on the front but it did take some time to get the rear shock dialled in and needed a gnardog token.
Definitely wasn't the easiest bike I've had to set up but it's certainly the best bike I've owned so far.
I would say that this rather depends on where you live, what trails you ride and how fast you can ride those trails.
Yes you can ride everything in Whistler on 140/150 bike (especially a well designed one) but the current crop of 150-160/ 170-180 bikes (also very well designed to climb quite well and descend almost as well as a DH bike) make life a lot safer and more fun.
Couldnt agree more, what a sexy looking bike. But if it cant walk the walk...then who gives a shit
I think the sexiness come from the "large hole and sharp design lines"
Using stock DT1900 wheelset with DH tires for park, but that's a bit of a waiting game here these days . . .and
B) I am certain I would get in trouble at whistler on a 140/150 bike. I know it can be done, but forte not to be limiting you'd have to be kinda badass . . . Us mortals? I'll take all the help I can get for when I over or undershoot . . .
No. No, it doesn't. Maybe it's made from foxes. Super ones at that, too. But nowhere in the term "superfoxy" can one spell carbon, let alone read it...
So that's the full name of the specific model. The author is just using an abbreviated name in the passage you quoted.
I'm glad that brands such as Privateer are coming onto the scene and shaking up this nonsense that is the bike industry; brands seem to justify to themselves that give figures on a bike is OK when they've overlooked so many fundamental elements of making a good bike.
Even at half the price - which the bike will be within a few months as Mondrakers depreciate so bad - its expensive.
Add to this the fact that i was the 3rd owner of the frame i bent, it was totally out of warranty and the only proof of purchase was an ebay receipt. I call that good service. They could have sold that frame for £600-700, it was in mint condition.
It got stolen a year later.
Im sorry there is no other way to put this. But this is just lazy, these are problems that i as a designer would not even allow on the prototype. I could kind of forgive the bike these flaws if it rode like the clappers. But it doesnt do that apparently. yet its THAT expensive.
No, it doesn't. The *new* DHX2 piggyback hits the frame. I know because I read the article.
But the issue here are the consumers. The Foxy looks absolute killer in person, and I guess that's the main selling point, enough that you'll see plenty of them at any enduro event in Iberia. In fact, I'd say (eyeballing here) you'll see way many more Foxies than any of the great alloy sub 2k€ frames or 3k€ bikes currently available which offer better reliability and performance
article = superfoxy
your quote = foxy
superfoxy = average bike
foxy = great bike everyone i know who's on loves. Next year make it look ugly, people will love it anyway.
Got it now?
The increase in rear travel might be only the result of the lengthened chainstay length
So in short. Buy a Propain or something. does everything this does (if not better) and isnt flawed. Looks better as well.
Just focus on your kids' mini motos, Modraker.
The ones i rode felt like driving a school bus, only good at high speeds and fast corners. One trick pony not fun for the diversity of my everyday ride or technical and slow terrain.
But good to hear you like the MR´s
I've got my third Mondy in a row. This year it's a Superfoxy. Previous were Dune R's. I am totally satisfied with it, I guess my riding isn't so on limits... I prefer natural trails to bikeparks, but love gravity & speed also.
In despite of all written in the review, the Superfoxy is sold out from the end of May 2020 and was on the market from mid July 2019...
I do agree that it has a long wheelbase at any size, and for that reason I opted to keep the 0deg headset cups installed. Granted, I do a lot climbing and descending with only a handful of bike park rips mixed in there. No part of me feels like this bike needs to be raked out an extra degree up front.
Have to go back to the pre-boost frame sets to see a bunch of chainstay failures.
Guess we want wildly different things out of bikes.
These might be seen as "minor issues" by very experienced and skilled riders who can adapt to anything, but to the average Joe, some things are a bit more disconcerting.
Mondraker should really pull their shit together and adress the following: slack-ish seat angle, way too small stack height and headtube, high BB combined with a linear linkage design, and last but not least, the 30mm stem requires a lot of attention to weight the front wheel, a 40mm or even 50mm stem would suit the bike better.
Although Mondraker were at the forefront of modern geometry back in the day, nowadays there are a lot of brands catching up and doing a better job at fine tuning those traits and offering an overall better ride. I really do hope and honestly wish they'd do some redesigns of their current line-up.
I mean, you go against their Forward Geometry concept, but honestly, since when did mountain bikers conform to a prescription.
I don't think downsizing is needed at all. Frankly Mondraker sizing is on par with pretty much everything modern these days. Just slide your seat forward and narrow your bars a bit if needed.
I realise some people dont get on with certain bikes but part of this review is just wrong! The stock head angle is 65 without the angleset (which my bike doesn't have) So rather than putting it to 65 to 67 stated in the review its actually 64 to 66 with the angleset.
Reading between the lines, it looks like Mondraker might have just used the same frame moulds from a different or previous frame and stuck and angle set in... for €10,000
Mondraker- Hold my beer.
KS eten
I used it on Giant Trance X with the offset extending the TT. Later, when I passed the bike to my gf, I rotated the whole post 180 degrees - reducing the TT with now front facing offset.
Could you please try to developp more the behaviour of the bike on your tests ?
it looks like now only the geometry numbers are commented
The position and how the suspension works are very important, but also, I think it is interesting to talk about grip, how the bike reacts in off cambers, if the frame is stiff or if it feels tolerant, if it brakes well, how does it brake in steep portions, does braking influences the suspension etc...
I run a 175mm dropper at 5'11" on a large and frankly could fit a 190mm.
I still love my Foxy 29 but that rear suspension took some know how to get it working really well and the factory spec missed it by a mile. And the short stems suck (on any bike). Will add that my actual STA on a L and a 175mm dropper is 76 degrees.
When I bought the bike it was my preferred frame to start with and I would have still made the same decision at that time. Going to ride it till it's worthless as I still really enjoy it and it's well scratched and has a lifetime frame warranty.
The only possible replacement frame I've considered is the Kavenz but not ready to slap on an additional 4# for the riding I do just yet.
Mondrakers setup values are much more inline with Yeti's setup guide.
I'm only 10-15lbs heavier and run 87 or 88 with 3 spacers and a lot less LSC. But I definitely prefer higher pressures and less damping compared to most.
I don't measure sag on the front, I just start at recommended and change it based on what feels best. My buddies like steep stuff so I gotta keep that front end up haha.
And I'm not sure how travel affects it. My gut would be that shorter travel is less progressive due to accepting more spacers.
I think you tried the wrong size, I own it in XL, I m 186 tall, and like this bike.
I change the coil for a Float X2, XTR brake to match drivetrain, and 2,35 butcher front and rear (thanks to my shop for the free change)
Try it in XL and rewrite your review, I m curious to read it
im the same height as the tester, but last weighed 78kg as a gangly teen.
Many of us taller boys are well over a 100kg plus a bit around the middle!
Love Pinkbike but all their testers are featherweights!
Me on the otherhand and all the other big boys out there, when we huck to flat, WE HUCK TO FLAT!
If you want honest testing of durability throw in at least one bruiser heavyweight.
Not all of us are unfit, but look more like footballers and rugby players...
On that note if Mondraker want a really good test and review of their product, please send me one....
Plus a 550lb spring!
Technically any bike that isn't a single pivot is a VPP suspension.
SRAM AXS - 1600
Wheelset 1501 - 850
Fox 38 Factory - 1500
Code RSC - 320
AXS Dropper - 500
Carbon Renthal Stem, Hadlebar - 200
Seat, grips etc - 500
It just shows that companys are going full crazy with these dentist bikes - sure they will sell a few of them, but they are not helping improving the image of "ordinary" bikes which in reality is their bread and butter, it just give "ordinary" buyer a feeling that company has gone mad....
1) Couldn't fit more than 180mm rear rotor
2) Seat tower 'knob' was too long and ended up cracking where it joined the top tube
3) The frame bulged above the chainring - so your couldn't run a top guide
4) Lower shock bushing rotated a ton on compression, but they specced standard Fox DU bushing that flogged out all the time.
5) Suspension curve already mentioned in article - bottomed out all the time with correct sag.
6) SO MUCH FLEX - tyres buzzed chainstays and bike generally felt like a noodle
7) Related to above, but the linkage is very narrow where it connects the mainframe to the rear triangle. Much flex.
9) The short headtube, short stem, low rise bars combo on long frames is just silly and doesn't work for any trail type.
Prime example of going for aesthetics over looks. Now on Megatower and wow, what a difference.
Why assume NX? Can you see through the cassette to the freehub interface?
What? Do you set up the rise direction parallel to the head tube? That's super rolled back, does it even have any effective up-sweep by that point?
Not huge, but not insignificant. Raise stem by 15mm and decrease reach and top-tube by 6mm.
More backsweep is a whole 'nother can of worms. Backsweep shouldn't be used to shorten the effective stem length, it should be only for hand and arm positioning/comfort. If you don't like too much backsweep (I don't), then it's a stupid/wrong way to alter the effective geometry.
At what seat height, for all sizes? Almost useless to tell one and not the other.
"Given that Mondraker don’t say, we can’t pass the message on"
Pass the message on the other way. Ask them: they're more likely to respond to media queries than random people emailing them. When they send a geo chart with effective angles, request the rest of the data to make it a useful measurement. If they gave you a pedal to ground clearance measurement, would you report that without knowing the cranks, crank length, and pedals that make up that measurement?
You could also measure it, at least for the size you have on test. You're supposed to be the numbers guy...
the same. The MY2019 much stiffer and responsive, both lack a bit while climbing. Nevertheless, I climb for descending as hard as possible, fast on any terrain, prefer steep and rough, so that was never an issue. Changed right away to DHRII DH 2.4 tubeless, front/ rear and never looked back.
148*12 might be the most useless standard in the bike history.
That's a slippery slope to just rely on "my settings", because rear suspension affects front suspension. A different frame's leverage curve can alter the dynamic ride and necessitate fork adjustments. Maybe "I knew my starting point"...
"I started at 80psi, 2 volume spacers, [etc]"
Hopefully that is was you meant by "I started at", but no mention of whether they were further tuned to match the bike. Perhaps more pressure/less sag, firmer compression, and faster rebound could have kept the front higher and weight further back a bit to help get the back end dynamic ride height lower, as you tried to do.