Review: 2023 Ibis Oso
Ibis' entry into the eMTB world wasn't entirely unexpected – after all, pretty much every other large and mid-sized manufacturer already had at least one model in their lineup – but the shape of the Oso certainly raised some eyebrows. It's a bike that stands out from the crowd, thanks to the large swingarm and a seat tube that curves around one side of the shock. Retro-futuristic seems like an apt description – it's almost like a bike from the '90s went time traveling.
The basics of the Oso (that's 'bear' in Spanish, and since an Ibis is a bird this is technically an electric bird bear) include a full carbon frame, 155mm of rear travel that's paired with a 170mm fork, and a Bosch Performance Line CX motor with a 750 Wh battery. The large and XL frames get 29” wheels, and the small and medium frames have mixed wheels.
The basics of the Oso (that's 'bear' in Spanish, and since an Ibis is a bird this is technically an electric bird bear) include a full carbon frame, 155mm of rear travel that's paired with a 170mm fork, and a Bosch Performance Line CX motor with a 750 Wh battery. The large and XL frames get 29” wheels, and the small and medium frames have mixed wheels.
Oso Details
• Wheel size: 29"
• Carbon frame
• Bosch Performance Line CX motor / 750 Wh battery
• Travel: 155mm (r) / 170mm fork
• 64º head angle
• Size-specific STA - 78º size L
• Size-specific chainstays - 444 mm size L
• Sizes: S, M, L, XL
• Weight: 53 lb / 24 kg (size L)
• Price: $10,999 USD
• ibiscycles.com
• Wheel size: 29"
• Carbon frame
• Bosch Performance Line CX motor / 750 Wh battery
• Travel: 155mm (r) / 170mm fork
• 64º head angle
• Size-specific STA - 78º size L
• Size-specific chainstays - 444 mm size L
• Sizes: S, M, L, XL
• Weight: 53 lb / 24 kg (size L)
• Price: $10,999 USD
• ibiscycles.com
At the moment there's only one model in the Oso lineup, which is priced at $10,999 USD. That gets you a 170mm Fox Performance 38 fork, a Performance Elite X2 shock, Shimano XT brakes, SRAM GX drivetrain, and Ibis' Blackbird aluminum wheels.
 | As it turns out, Oso hides its dimensions very well, and there's a ton of stability thanks to the longer wheelbase, which comes in handy when you're working up through a technical section of trail. |
Frame & Motor Details
The Oso has a full carbon frame, with the 750 Wh battery hidden by a door on the non-driveside that's removable with a turn of a 6mm Allen key. The charging port is located just in front of the motor, with a magnetic closure system to help keep water from sneaking in. I wasn't the first rider on this bike, and by the time I got it the door was on its last legs – the plastic hinge is very thin, and if the cranks inadvertently get spun when the hatch is open it's easy to break.
In its stock configuration the Oso has 155mm of travel, but riders who want even more can run a 230 x 65mm shock to bump that up to 170mm. In addition, the frame is approved for use with up to a 190mm fork, and it's dual crown compatible. The Oso's frame is covered by a seven year warranty, and if any of the bushings happen to wear out Ibis will replace them for free for the life of the frame.
Other details include a small fender to help keep mud from getting flung onto the shock, rubber chainslap protection on the underside of the swingarm, and an integrated headlight and tail light from Lupine.
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Display / Controls
If brands are racing down the integration highway this year, hurtling toward a future where everything is either wireless or totally hidden inside a bike's frame, Ibis seems to gotten off a few exits early. Rather than routing housing through headsets or handlebars, everything is exposed at the front of the bike, creating quite the rat's nest.
For the record, I still believe headset cable routing is silly, but I also think there's a middle ground out there that would create a much less cluttered looking front end. The fact that the controller is the larger, wired option from Bosch rather than the recently released wireless version that's much less obtrusive and easier to operate doesn't really help matters either.
And then there's the gigantic display... Thankfully it's removable, but its size and position make it an eyesore, at least for me – I just want to go for a ride, not control a spacecraft. There are several recently announced bikes (the Orbea Wild and Crestline RS 50/75 come to mind, or the latest version of the Trek Rail) that do a better job with Bosch's equipment to create a much cleaner look.
![photo]()
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![photo]()
The Oso has a full carbon frame, with the 750 Wh battery hidden by a door on the non-driveside that's removable with a turn of a 6mm Allen key. The charging port is located just in front of the motor, with a magnetic closure system to help keep water from sneaking in. I wasn't the first rider on this bike, and by the time I got it the door was on its last legs – the plastic hinge is very thin, and if the cranks inadvertently get spun when the hatch is open it's easy to break.
In its stock configuration the Oso has 155mm of travel, but riders who want even more can run a 230 x 65mm shock to bump that up to 170mm. In addition, the frame is approved for use with up to a 190mm fork, and it's dual crown compatible. The Oso's frame is covered by a seven year warranty, and if any of the bushings happen to wear out Ibis will replace them for free for the life of the frame.
Other details include a small fender to help keep mud from getting flung onto the shock, rubber chainslap protection on the underside of the swingarm, and an integrated headlight and tail light from Lupine.
All the buttons on the remote can make it hard to hit the right one without looking down.
No, you can't play video games or check your email on the large display screen.
Display / Controls
If brands are racing down the integration highway this year, hurtling toward a future where everything is either wireless or totally hidden inside a bike's frame, Ibis seems to gotten off a few exits early. Rather than routing housing through headsets or handlebars, everything is exposed at the front of the bike, creating quite the rat's nest.
For the record, I still believe headset cable routing is silly, but I also think there's a middle ground out there that would create a much less cluttered looking front end. The fact that the controller is the larger, wired option from Bosch rather than the recently released wireless version that's much less obtrusive and easier to operate doesn't really help matters either.
And then there's the gigantic display... Thankfully it's removable, but its size and position make it an eyesore, at least for me – I just want to go for a ride, not control a spacecraft. There are several recently announced bikes (the Orbea Wild and Crestline RS 50/75 come to mind, or the latest version of the Trek Rail) that do a better job with Bosch's equipment to create a much cleaner look.
Geometry & Sizing
If Ibis was known for slightly conservative reach numbers in the past, that's not the case here. The numbers range from 430mm on the small all the way up to 530mm on the XL; the size large I tested has a reach of 500mm. The jumps in between sizes are fairly substantial – there's a 40mm difference between the 460mm reach of the medium and the 500mm reach of the large.
The Oso has a steep seat angle that ranges from 77 to 79-degrees depending on the frame size, along with a generous stack height. It's worth noting that although the actual seat angle is fairly slack, its position in well in front of the bottom bracket is what allows for such steep effective seat angles. According to Ibis, they saw a typical change to the effective seat tube angle of about +/-0.7 degrees for the saddle height variation they expected from each size.
The steep seat angle also helps create a more upright seated position, despite the rangy reach. The geometry chart above lists the effective top tube length as 638mm, but by my measurements it's 610mm, and at 5'11” I never felt overly stretched out while pedaling.
![photo]()
If Ibis was known for slightly conservative reach numbers in the past, that's not the case here. The numbers range from 430mm on the small all the way up to 530mm on the XL; the size large I tested has a reach of 500mm. The jumps in between sizes are fairly substantial – there's a 40mm difference between the 460mm reach of the medium and the 500mm reach of the large.
The Oso has a steep seat angle that ranges from 77 to 79-degrees depending on the frame size, along with a generous stack height. It's worth noting that although the actual seat angle is fairly slack, its position in well in front of the bottom bracket is what allows for such steep effective seat angles. According to Ibis, they saw a typical change to the effective seat tube angle of about +/-0.7 degrees for the saddle height variation they expected from each size.
The steep seat angle also helps create a more upright seated position, despite the rangy reach. The geometry chart above lists the effective top tube length as 638mm, but by my measurements it's 610mm, and at 5'11” I never felt overly stretched out while pedaling.
Suspension Design
At the heart of the Oso's wild-looking frame is the tried-and-true DW-link suspension design. In this case, Ibis refers to it as an upper link suspension layout, with a short link connecting the swingarm to the shock, and another connecting it just above the bottom bracket.
The Oso has an antisquat value of 110% at sag, which gradually decreases as the bike goes through its travel. The leverage rate is progressive, with a 25% change, which means the Oso should be able to accept an air or coil shock without issue.
| Specifications | ||
| Price | $10999 | |
| Travel | 155 | |
| Rear Shock | Fox Performance Elite Series, X2, 205x60mm | |
| Fork | Fox Performance Series, Float 38, 170mm | |
| Cassette | SRAM GX, XG 1275, 10-52 | |
| Crankarms | SRAM EX1 E-Crank, 32T ring, Ibis spider | |
| Bottom Bracket | Bosch Performance Line CX / 750 Wh battery | |
| Rear Derailleur | SRAM GX Eagle | |
| Chain | SRAM GX Eagle | |
| Shifter Pods | SRAM GX Eagle | |
| Handlebar | Ibis Carbon Hi Fi, 31.8mm, 800mm | |
| Stem | Ibis 31.8mm S/M: 40mm, L/XL: 50mm | |
| Grips | Lizard Skin Charger Evo | |
| Brakes | Shimano XT M8120, 4 piston | |
| Wheelset | Blackbird Send I/ Send II, Aluminium | |
| Hubs | Ibis | |
| Tires | Maxxis Assegai, 29x2.5", 3C Maxxgrip, Double Down, TR, WT; Rear: Maxxis Aggresor, 29x2.5", 3C Maxxgrip, Double Down, TR, WT | |
| Seat | SDG Bel-Air, V3 | |
| Seatpost | Bike Yoke Revive Dropper | |
Test Bike Setup
I trimmed the Oso's carbon bars down to 780mm (they use an aluminum insert that makes the whole 'measure twice, cut once' thing a little less relevant). If you did cut the bars too short you could purchase new inserts for $15 instead of a whole new set of bars. I also swapped out the 50mm stem for one that was my preferred 40mm length.
I ran the Float X2 with 28% sag and one volume reducer installed. My compression and rebound settings were as follows (all clicks counted from closed): HSC: 5, LSC: 9, HSR: 5, LSR: 10. For the Performance 38 fork I ran 83 psi and two volume spacers, with 4 clicks of rebound and the compression set to the middle of the range. The rebound settings for both the fork and shock deviate from what Ibis recommends; I'll explain why in the 'Descending' portion of this review.
The final swap that I made was to the rear tire. The Dissector that my test bike arrived with isn't a bad option for dry or partially dry locations, but Bellingham in the winter isn't usually either of those things. A Minion DHR II took its place for better grip and braking control.
Mike Kazimer
Location: Bellingham, WA, USA
Height: 5'11" / 180cm
Inseam: 33" / 84cm
Weight: 160 lbs / 72.6 kg
Industry affiliations / sponsors: None
Instagram: @mikekazimer
Location: Bellingham, WA, USA
Height: 5'11" / 180cm
Inseam: 33" / 84cm
Weight: 160 lbs / 72.6 kg
Industry affiliations / sponsors: None
Instagram: @mikekazimer
Climbing
On paper, the Oso looks like a big beast, with a wheelbase that's getting close to 1300mm for a size large. If there wasn't a motor I'd probably be writing about how it's a handful on climbs and slow speed sections of trail, but that all gets thrown out the window once you add a bunch of electric power into the mix.
As it turns out, Oso hides its dimensions very well, and there's a ton of stability thanks to the longer wheelbase, which comes in handy when you're working up through a technical section of trail. We're still talking about a 50+ pound, full-power e-bike, so bunnyhopping and more aggressive manuevers do take some effort, but the Oso is a much more well-rounded climber than its dimensions suggest. In addition, the overall suspension feel is very good, delivering a nice supple, ground hugging sensation without feeling too soft or wallowy.
The steep seat angle comes into play here too – it makes it easier to keep weight on the front wheel when necessary, and creates a more balanced, central pedaling position. I could drag the brakes a little through a tight, steep uphill switchback and keep on climbing without needing to do any dramatic weight shifts. There were a couple of times on extra steep climbs when the front end felt like it wanted to lift, and once that long front center starts to come off the ground it takes some work to get it back down. Those instances were outliers more than the norm, and in most cases the Oso kept trucking right along, motoring up and over everything without any issues.
The Bosch motor's power delivery is excellent, with 4 modes that make it easy to find the right balance between maintaining forward momentum and spinning out. I spent most of my time riding in the 'Tour' or 'eMTB' modes that provide 140% or 240% support respectively, reserving the full Turbo mode for times when I was trying to crank out laps as fast as possible on trails that were accessed via a fire road. The 750 Wh battery seems like the sweet spot when it comes to overall weight vs range, at least for now - I could rack up 5,600 vertical feet of climbing in Turbo mode before running out of juice, or get even more vertical and miles in by using the other modes.
Personally, I prefer the Bosch system to the Shimano EP8. The EP8 requires a higher cadence to get the most out of it, while with the Bosch motor I was able to keep my rpms closer to what they'd be on a 'regular' bike, and the additional modes make it easier to settle on just the right amount of power delivery.
![photo]()
On paper, the Oso looks like a big beast, with a wheelbase that's getting close to 1300mm for a size large. If there wasn't a motor I'd probably be writing about how it's a handful on climbs and slow speed sections of trail, but that all gets thrown out the window once you add a bunch of electric power into the mix.
As it turns out, Oso hides its dimensions very well, and there's a ton of stability thanks to the longer wheelbase, which comes in handy when you're working up through a technical section of trail. We're still talking about a 50+ pound, full-power e-bike, so bunnyhopping and more aggressive manuevers do take some effort, but the Oso is a much more well-rounded climber than its dimensions suggest. In addition, the overall suspension feel is very good, delivering a nice supple, ground hugging sensation without feeling too soft or wallowy.
The steep seat angle comes into play here too – it makes it easier to keep weight on the front wheel when necessary, and creates a more balanced, central pedaling position. I could drag the brakes a little through a tight, steep uphill switchback and keep on climbing without needing to do any dramatic weight shifts. There were a couple of times on extra steep climbs when the front end felt like it wanted to lift, and once that long front center starts to come off the ground it takes some work to get it back down. Those instances were outliers more than the norm, and in most cases the Oso kept trucking right along, motoring up and over everything without any issues.
The Bosch motor's power delivery is excellent, with 4 modes that make it easy to find the right balance between maintaining forward momentum and spinning out. I spent most of my time riding in the 'Tour' or 'eMTB' modes that provide 140% or 240% support respectively, reserving the full Turbo mode for times when I was trying to crank out laps as fast as possible on trails that were accessed via a fire road. The 750 Wh battery seems like the sweet spot when it comes to overall weight vs range, at least for now - I could rack up 5,600 vertical feet of climbing in Turbo mode before running out of juice, or get even more vertical and miles in by using the other modes.
Personally, I prefer the Bosch system to the Shimano EP8. The EP8 requires a higher cadence to get the most out of it, while with the Bosch motor I was able to keep my rpms closer to what they'd be on a 'regular' bike, and the additional modes make it easier to settle on just the right amount of power delivery.
Descending
Ibis has a handy chart that provides suggested base settings for the Oso's fork and shock. Those settings align with their 'Traction Tune' philosophy, which involves running minimal compression and rebound damping in order to allow the wheels to get out of the way of a bump quickly, and then return just as quickly on the backside. I gave the settings a try for a couple of rides before coming to the conclusion that they weren't going to work for me. That point was illustrated all too clearly when a hard landing bucked me off the trail as if I'd been double bounced on a trampoline - I can't remember the last time I've been thrown that aggressively off the trail. It turns out at least some high speed rebound damping is a good thing.
I understand the theory behind the 'Traction Tune', and I'm sure it could work in some situations, especially for riders with a more wheels-on-the-ground riding style, but I don't get along with it at higher speeds or on trails with bigger jumps or impacts.
Thankfully, the fork and shock have enough range of adjustment that I could dial things into my liking without much trouble. Once I'd found my happy place there was plenty of traction and a nice bottomless feel for soaking up bigger hits. I can see riders looking for an even more DH-oriented machine increasing the stroke length and going with a longer travel fork, but out of the box the Oso is still very capable, and as cliché as it may seem, there were times when it truly did feel like it had more than 155mm of travel.
Just like on the climbs, the Oso never felt like a handful on the descents, even on loose, steep trails where heavy braking and precision maneuvers are required. The overall length feels 'safe' rather than scary – I never experienced the runaway freight train feeling that can sometimes arise with really long, slack bikes. The tall front end works very well in the steeps, preventing any sensations of getting pitched forward.
There's still no getting around the stretched out wheelbase, which can make its overall handling feel less precise compared to bikes with more moderate dimension. For riders that want to hang on and let their Ibis do the job, the Oso's up to the task, just keep in mind that it has a bigger footprint, which, when combined with the 53-pound weight, makes it almost impossible to forget that you're on an e-bike.
I've grown to appreciate mixed wheel setups, especially on eMTBs, and I do wish that it was possible to run a smaller wheel on the larger sizes of this bike. I didn't have any issues with tire buzz (that's rare for me on any bike), but I did miss the way that a smaller rear wheel makes it possible to carve the back end around on steep, loose slopes. I've had some amazing cornering moments aboard Specialized's Turbo Levo, and I was never quite able to get the same sensation from the Oso.
Ibis Oso
Orbea Wild
How does it compare?
Orbea's recently released Wild eMTB falls into the same full-power category as the Oso, and it also uses Bosch's CX motor with a 750 Wh battery. However, Orbea has a much deeper line of models, allowing riders to pick and choose exactly what features they want, and the new Race version of that motor is available on the top tier model.
Putting the Wild's through-headset cable routing on the back burner for now, the rest of the integration is much nicer than what's found on the Oso. The handlebar remote and the rear wheel speed sensor are both wireless, reducing the amount of clutter. The same goes for the small display in the Wild's top tube – it shows the motor mode, the battery percentage, and that's it, which is really all that I'm interested in. Now, it's worth mentioning that Bosch's wireless remote is just barely starting to show up on bikes - there aren't that many out in the real world quite yet, and the Oso was released last October, before the new remote was available.
On the trail, the Wild feels more compact and precise than the Oso; it's also around 5 pounds lighter, traits that I found made it easier for me to switch back and forth between it and a 'regular' bike without needing to adjust my riding style.
How about the venerable Specialized Turbo Levo? Two years ago I called it the 'benchmark', and I'd say that term still applies, although the competition is getting much more heated. The integrated display is one of the nicest executions of the concept out there, and the amount of geometry adjustments is hard to beat. There's also the fact that many of the models are currently discounted – the Expert model is now $8,250 USD, with a parts kit that's nicer than what's found on the Oso.
Technical Report
Blackbird wheels: I mentioned earlier that I wasn't the first person on this bike, and whoever rode it before me wasn't super nice to the wheels. They arrived with quite the rear wheel wobble, but after giving them some love in the truing stand they held up for the duration of the test. It is worth mentioning that they have a 7-year warranty – that's a long time for an aluminum rim, especially ones on a big e-bike.
Fox Performance 38: The 38's Grip damper works well, and once I'd added a dash of low-speed compression via the dial on the top of the right leg I didn't have any complaints about its performance... That is, other than the fact that I think an $11,000 bike should have a higher end fork. Realistically, a mid-tier shock and a high end fork is the better way to go on an eMTB – the mass of the bike tends to make even more entry-level shocks feel better than they would on a regular bike.
Floppy battery cover: The Oso's battery cover is easy to take off, but that's about the only good thing I have to say about it. It's made of a very soft plastic, and even though there's a rubber gasket around the perimeter I'd still finish rides and find that mud and grit had made its way onto the battery. I also had the battery shift in the frame, which affected the connection and made the bike turn off intermittently during a ride. Ibis has an updated bolt and higher torque spec for the battery cradle, and once the bolts were swapped the power issue was fixed. The fix also allowed the door to seal slightly better, but still not enough to hold up to Pacific Northwest riding conditions.
Lupine lights: I'm not opposed to integrated lights, even if they seem a little goofy. This time of year the sun seems like it sets at noon, so having a little backup for rides that go longer than expected is nice, as is the tail light to help distracted drivers possibly maybe not run you off the road. The 900 lumen light is bright enough to get you out of the woods, but for proper night riding you'll want to supplement that with a brighter helmet mounted light for even more illumination.
![photo]()
Blackbird wheels: I mentioned earlier that I wasn't the first person on this bike, and whoever rode it before me wasn't super nice to the wheels. They arrived with quite the rear wheel wobble, but after giving them some love in the truing stand they held up for the duration of the test. It is worth mentioning that they have a 7-year warranty – that's a long time for an aluminum rim, especially ones on a big e-bike.
Fox Performance 38: The 38's Grip damper works well, and once I'd added a dash of low-speed compression via the dial on the top of the right leg I didn't have any complaints about its performance... That is, other than the fact that I think an $11,000 bike should have a higher end fork. Realistically, a mid-tier shock and a high end fork is the better way to go on an eMTB – the mass of the bike tends to make even more entry-level shocks feel better than they would on a regular bike.
Floppy battery cover: The Oso's battery cover is easy to take off, but that's about the only good thing I have to say about it. It's made of a very soft plastic, and even though there's a rubber gasket around the perimeter I'd still finish rides and find that mud and grit had made its way onto the battery. I also had the battery shift in the frame, which affected the connection and made the bike turn off intermittently during a ride. Ibis has an updated bolt and higher torque spec for the battery cradle, and once the bolts were swapped the power issue was fixed. The fix also allowed the door to seal slightly better, but still not enough to hold up to Pacific Northwest riding conditions.
Lupine lights: I'm not opposed to integrated lights, even if they seem a little goofy. This time of year the sun seems like it sets at noon, so having a little backup for rides that go longer than expected is nice, as is the tail light to help distracted drivers possibly maybe not run you off the road. The 900 lumen light is bright enough to get you out of the woods, but for proper night riding you'll want to supplement that with a brighter helmet mounted light for even more illumination.
Pros
+ Good mix of traction & pep from rear suspension
+ Big bike feel without being cumbersome
+ Bosch CX motor, 750 Wh battery, and lights allow for extra-long rides.
Cons
- Cluttered cockpit due to wired remote and display
- Flimsy battery cover and charging port
- Only one model, and it's not cheap.
Pinkbike's Take
| There have obviously been all sorts of challenges and hurdles for bike companies to overcome over the last few years, and realistically, if the Oso had been released last season I wouldn't have as many gripes. However, e-bike technology and design are evolving quickly, and some of the features on the Oso, like the external display and clunky wired controller already feel a little dated. They're fully functional, it's just that for $11,000 I'd like to see a higher level of integration and refinement. That said, the overall ride quality of the Oso is great – it has the mix of traction and pep that Ibis is known for, now with the addition of Bosch's CX motor. It's a big bike that's a lot of fun, although how much that fun is worth is up for debate. |
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The San Andreas was good looking the late 90’s. This is just ugly.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvDC-wJkEtM&t=679s
I am curious how it’ll all shake out. If I could only have one bike it definitely wouldn’t be an e-bike. Even with access to plenty of fancy eebs I still love riding regular bikes just as much.
I may be an outlier, even though I really hope that’s not the case. We’ll see what happens over the next few years.
If the layman sees MTB as dominated by high-priced bikes with motors in places they don't belong, it hurts my ego and hurts our access. If buying an E-mtb enables you to ride from the house and skip the trip in the car I'm all for it, the same way I feel about e-commuter bikes. Ditch the coffin (car) and skip the trip! I am also opinionated and I let this discussion have too much real estate in my brain space.
The argument goes (and its not without merit) that ebikes will only further rally these anti-mountain bike activists, and hasten the decline of publicly available mountain bike trails (IMBA trails aren't mountain bike trails).
1) I’m going to use this as a tool for trail building and maintenance
2) for whatever reasons (medical or otherwise) I wouldn’t be outside enjoying myself if it’s weren’t for assist
3) these are rad and f having to work harder on pedaling
I’m still not great at impulsive manuals on the full ebike though. Once you get the wheel up it’s cake though…
+1 to those who make the case for older and injured athletes on ebikes. And pros who still want to have fun on their rest days.
Who’s usually riding them… big money 40-50 yr olds generally, you know the ones with the latest VW van, Electric car or Land Rover.
Fu*k the batteries, earn your turns, keep healthy and stop pissing people off that are actually putting everything they’ve got into that tech climb.
But I think most of your fears are totally stupid/self inflicted. There is not a single problem with ebikes that I´m aware.Years ago many riders thought like you and now are ridding ebikes...
My Saturday ride was me and 3 more ebikes,doing laps for an oncoming race and almost all my rides in the last year someone showed in an ebike. It is possible to ride mixed group 0 problem.
I bet in that race more than half of the field would be ebikes (100+ riders).
1. Ebikes require the same skills. So bad analogy to scooters. Just a heavier bike.
2. Ebikes don't spin up trails. This only happens where you would spin anyway on a normal bike. Sounds like you have no idea what you are talking about.
3. Plus size tires create less erosion than thinner ones... And it's either fat bikes or normal tires. Plus sized wheels are very uncommon.
4. Skidding downhill has nothing to do with an ebike. I use to skid the rear when I got my first real mountainbike over a decade ago. It's a decision nothing to do with ebikes.
It's undeniable that you are inceredibly biased and ignorant and you come off worse than those old grumpy hikers advocating against bike access because they don't like it. When you do this you can't be taken seriously.
The problem is politics- the Federal government will only grow in power and land, and us peasants will have to squabble over what remains. If I was to advocate for allowing Monster Trucks running straight pipe deisel engines on Wilderness lands, I would hurt the open access movement more than help it. I want ebikes to be allowed on nearly all land, but not if it reduces access by analog bikes. Sometimes you have to give and take, politically, and make sacrifices. I'm not sure if ebikes is the place to draw the line or not, but for many, better informed people it is.
People take different lines on normal bikes as well again nothing to do with ebikes. You might not realize it but you are just arguing against bike access in general.
These are bad arguments to use.
Yes e-bikes require the same skills, that’s the problem, ebikers don’t have them, most of the have only just picked up a bike in the first time in 30 years about 6 months and now they’re able to get above the tree line and attempting badly to ride trails they have no business being on. Skidding down trails and big heavy e-bikes with plus tyres riding around sections that’s too difficult braiding public rights of way that have to be legally maintained for everyone not just mountain bikers. The damage and problems they’re causing isn’t up for debate anymore.
The skill argument doesn't work. Normal mountainbikers are equally without skill. No one who buys their first mountainbike has experience mountainbiking... And it's even worse of an argument when you consider most people spending so much money on an ebike are experienced mountainbikers. I don't know a single ebike rider who bought it as their first bike.
Skidding down trails has nothing to do with ebikes either. It's the riders choice. And plus size tires don't bite into the dirt like normal tires do so that is the opposite of what happens with plus size tires. And again it's an even more non-sensical argument as plus size tires are rare. Or if you want to talk about fat bikes.
You are just describing mountainbiking problems not ebike problems.
The problem is perception- if the crusaders against land use have more ammunition, real or perceived, they will use it.
Would a fat guy in a fancy all carbon trail bike would erode the same as a 12 year old kid+ebike?
With that argument in mind: all the fat guys plz stop ridding trails cos your fat ass erode like crazy,not like me at 150 pound full kit never damaged an inch of trail,period. Same thing for +tires riders,keep your bike at home plz.
Hakuna Matata:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MxulhivCvI
if you are riding an ebike with +tires it would be like 4 years of forced trail job till you look like a ballerina and never ever erode the trail again.
An entire season of 100 normal mountain bikers do less erosion than a single moto on a single day. It doesn't matter if its "more", the "more" is so trivial compared to horses & truly motorized vehicles that its not even worth arguing about.
But beef tastes so good I'm willing to give the cows a pass.
In all seriousness, it sucks when cows trample trails on public land, but I'm comparing my recreation with peoples literal livelihood. Those grazing rights were either paid for (not cheap) or they have been in the family for generations, most often proceeding the Federal government acquiring the land and making it public. I don't get mad at cows, but yes they can really do damage.
The rear wheel was so flexy that the rear rotor dragged every time I leaned it into a corner. The shop verified it’s the wheel build and had heard this complaint before. Also, the build for the $ is hilarious. Those lights don’t come off unless you want to pull the wires directly from the motor. The screen is comical and a visual distraction.
As a current Ripmo owner I wanted to like this bike. Back to the drawing board, Ibis.
First ripley you couldn’t run more than a 2.25 ardent in back. Even that tire rubbed my seat tube.
Now the ripmo has a beautiful shelf to catch rocks and crush them between moving frame parts?
My bike was on sale for less than 5k right around when the Oso was announced, so it seemed wild that they were speccing forks that were two steps down despite it being over twice the cost (even at retail it is almost 4k more).
These bikes aren’t made to ride fast or hard. It’s for some old guy who hated e-bikes three months ago to putter around on and tell you how behind the times you are for actually pedaling a regular bike.
and the DD maxx grip tires will ensure a safe tour. you can never be too careful.
(sad, as I have an Ibis)
www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DkUMyi3Mxg
Oso: Looks kinda ugly. It has the rounded angles like other Ibis bikes that I'm not the biggest fan of (I love sharp lines). I was not the biggest fan of the rear swingarm, but holy crap! The thing rides like a beast! The rear end feels like a bottomless, super capable version of the Ripmo. The Ripmo would start to dance around on fast chunky loose hits. The Oso's rear takes it all. The short chainstay on both bikes turns on a dime. The Oso's length on my medium is super stable.
The rear shock is good. I was originally pretty disappointed with the lower end Fox 38 without all the Grip 2 adjusters, but it was aci pretty good! I didn't get lost in all the clicks like I normally do and had it dialed after 2 rides.
I didn't like the stock Ibis aluminum 31.8mm aluminum bar that came on my Ripmo. The stock carbon Ibis 31.8mm bar that came on the Oso was surprisingly really good! Great geo and no hand fatigue. I swapped them out with OneUp bars that I already had, but I'm definitely keeping the Ibis ones as backup.
The wiring is a mess! I love a clean cockpit and this has been my biggest gripe with the bike. I ended up taking off the front light (20 min easy peasy job), but kept the rear light. I actually like the Bosch disply unit interface, but I wish it was better integrated.
The battery door is flimsy and the bottom plastic motor guard cover thing broke on the first ride. Ibis sent out an improved one asap.
Everything else on the bike was on par. I wish it had a Shimano drivetrain though. I prefer how Shimano shifts smoother over the Sram.
The Oso rides 3x better than it looks! I could care less what my bike looks like tbh. The way it rides was worth the almost $9K I paid for. I would NOT pay $11K for this or any bike just Fyi...
Anyways, wheelsbases (more specifically chain stays) continue to be too short on almost all bikes and weight kind of doesn't matter for actual downhill focused mountain biking.
"The geometry chart above lists the effective top tube length as 638mm, but by measurements it's 610mm, and at 5'11” I never felt overly stretched out while pedaling."
Either one could be misleading given that your seat is so much higher than the top of the headtube anyway. But...
Swap to a better integrated Fazua 60, ditch the problematic easily removable battery (the bike can still be disassembled and repaired obviously) and get 10#s off this thing and you'd really have something.
I'd also like it to be raw alloy, 203mm+ front and rear, and cheaper, with a frame only option.
I really like the aesthetics though
I still don't like eMTB's though.
GTFOH
m.pinkbike.com/news/ibis-launches-new-vietnam-made-exie.html
And the surron has a headlight.
I have seen many a fit person get to the top of a climb and then get caught out on a technical down, and not on e-bikes. People do what people are gonna do. But I don't go yelling at them, instead I'll have a word with them, give some hints on riding, and direct them around the forest to some trails more in line with their skills. We all had no skills once. And this sport was inviting to all, once, too.
I watched 3 beginner mountain bike riders on local technical trails, not ebikes, they were in tennis shoes, jogging shorts, their first ride and in over their head. True story and the point is THOUSANDS of mountain bikers before ebikes did not know how to ride, did not know trail etiquette, did not know how to work on their bikes or setup. People/Society is generally stupid and I am sick of morons blaming "ebikes" for what they are seeing because it all existed before. Just because you aren't cool enough to ride an ebike, or too broke to afford one, does not mean you have to hate on the bikes.
I bought Pit Vipers, how bout now?
Also, having worked at ski resorts with complete signage and patrol. I can tell you first hand proper signage does nothing. Stupid people are everywhere and i've towed my share down the hill on a sled.
Who's the local a*shole? You or the guy who yelled at them?
con: it's not a bike
two wheels - engine = bike
two wheels + engine = motorcycle
maybe e-mobylette is more adequate, since it has both engine and pedals.
(Us pedantic pricks will appreciate the correct terminology)
2 wheels = bike
1 wheel = unicycle
3 wheels = trike
Do you want to take a trip to Sturgis and we can tell everyone they’re not bikers they’re motor bikers? Should we write the producers of Breaking Bad and tell them That’s not biker meth that’s a motorcycle meth? You aren’t a biker chick, you’re a motorcycle chick? That’s not a dirtbike, that’s a dirt motorcycle?
Bike or bicycle means something with two wheels. There is no differentiation on if it has a motor/dropper/suspension/brakes or not.
Pros:
- can help those with disabilities be active
- could be potentially used to replace a car, but in practice are rarely ever used for this
- people in your personal relationships will be made aware that you are easy and greedy
Cons:
- for the majority of e mtn bike use, you are just contributing to the overall degradation of our planet through unsustainable lithium practices. The mining process is detrimental to ecosystems and can’t be recycled at the end of it’s life cycle. Maybe one day it will improve. If you think it’s great now you are blind to facts.
- not a mountain bike
- all ebikes are fugly
- extra maintenance on more parts
- requires a constant draw of energy from an outlet to maintain battery life, further wasting energy.
- destroys trails faster
- will make you weaker
- could potentially lead those with disabilities to more injury
Does anyone know how I can delete my Pinkbike account? I no longer want to be a part of this site. It is no longer a mountain biking site. It’s a moped site. I want off. The option isn’t clear under account management.
- can help those with disabilities be active
- could be potentially used to replace a car, but in practice are rarely ever used for this
GUILTY OF THIS THOUGH I DO USE IT IN PLACE OF A SHUTTLE
- people in your personal relationships will be made aware that you are easy and greedy
- GREAT AID FOR TRAIL WORK ACCESS AND CARRYING TOOLS. INCREASED MY WORK FROM 30 TO 50 DAYS A YEAR.
Cons:
- for the majority of e mtn bike use, you are just contributing to the overall degradation of our planet through unsustainable lithium practices. The mining process is detrimental to ecosystems and can’t be recycled at the end of it’s life cycle. Maybe one day it will improve. If you think it’s great now you are blind to facts.
AGREED
- not a mountain bike
HIGHLY DEBATABLE. HAS WAY MORE IN COMMON WITH MOST MOUNTAIN BIKES ARE USED THAN A DH BIKE.
- all ebikes are fugly
WHO CARES?
- extra maintenance on more parts
DRIVETRAIN YES, CAN BE REPLACED WITH HARDER WEARING PARTS AS WEIGHT ISNT SUCH A BIG DEAL
- requires a constant draw of energy from an outlet to maintain battery life, further wasting energy.
AGREE ON INCREASED ENERGY USAGE BUT NOT CONSTANT DRAW
- destroys trails faster
ONLY BECAUSE YOU CAN GET MORE LAPS. FOLKS PUTTING HEAVY USAGE ON A TRAIL SYSTEM SHOULD DO MORE TRAIL WORK REGARDLESS OF THE BIKE. EG REALLY FIT PEOPLE, THE INDEPENDANTLY WEALTHY ETC
- will make you weaker
DEPENDS HOW YOU RIDE IT, COULD ALSO MAKE YOU STRONGER MOSTLY IN REGARDS TO DH FITNESS
- could potentially lead those with disabilities to more injury
BIT OF A STRETCH, RIDING AN MTB WILL GIVE ANYBODY THE POTENTIAL FOR MORE INJURY
They are here to stay, don't let it ruin your life dude, your tires on dirt will always be fun whatever other folks do
Seriously though, do you know how I can delete my PB account? Have had it for awhile to sell old rides, but the Evil Insurgent is the best bike I’ve ever ridden so no need to try and sell anything again because that’ll be the bike I shred for years and years to come. Recently thought I’d dip my toes in the comments for the first time, but between people trying to justify hitting kids because of MVDP situation and the stern unwillingness to recognize e mtb waste, I’m over it. Not my crowd. I’ll keep grinding to make critical infrastructure more sustainable, and best if I focus all my energy on that, not this.
Unfortunately you’re right, looks like emtbs are here to stay. The cat is out of the bag.
And oh yea no one ruins my time on the trails. Get a kick out of passing crowds on climbs who look surprised that I don’t have a motor. And some emtbs may blast by me on the climbs, but I get to return the favor on the descent!
Anyways, I’m sorry to hear you’ve been doomed to scour the plains of Pinkbike for eternity.
if you really want to delete your account, drop down at top right, choose profile, edit profile (top leftish), delete profile.
Keep those wheels turning with a smile brother
Yea friend I’m out. I quit all social media years ago and it’s been great honestly. This is the closest I’ve done to anything like that in quite awhile. This doesn’t seem like the right spot for challenging convos, will leave it to the professional realm and not get fired up on here.
Will be shreddin with a smile for a long long time. Its a passion for sure.
Cheers. And on behalf of all, thanks for the trail work.
(oh ... I think I just answered my question)
www.pinkbike.com/news/pinkbike-update-were-testing-filters-for-emtb-content-and-racing-disciplines.html