Review: Crankbrothers' Candy 7 Pedals Have Wings

Jun 26, 2019
by Mike Levy  
Crankbrothers Candy 7

Crankbrothers' pedals, much like the company itself, often elicit either a love or hate response from riders depending on their experiences and how much time they've spent reading forums. There have been some duds, no doubt about that, but their latest products have proven to be reliable, especially the new Synthesis wheels and Highline dropper post.

With that in mind, it's probably time to re-visit Crankbrothers' Candy pedal, a mid-sized, kinda-has-a-platform-but-mostly-doesn't offering that's popular with trail riders.

The all-black version that I that I've been using for the past six or so months is the Candy 7, their $169 USD pedal that weighs 325-grams for the pair on my scale. Don't worry, Money Bags, you can spend a hell of a lot more than that and choose from a bunch of questionable colors, too; the Candy 11 costs a whopping $450 but all the titanium bits lower the weight down to 249-grams. Here's an interesting fact for you: The $59 Candy 1 sports a ''composite'' body and steel guts but, according to Crankbrothers' website, also weighs 249-grams.
Candy 7 Details

• Intended use: cross-country / trail
• Four-sided entry
• Aluminum body
• Stainless steel 'wing' mechanism
• Stainless steel spring
• Steel axle
• 15 or 20-degree release angle
• Tunable interface
• Q-factor: 52mm
• Weight: 325-grams (actual)
• MSRP: $169 USD
• More info:

Crankbrothers Candy 7
The $169 USD Candy 7 is Crankbrothers' trail-oriented pedal that sports a mid-sized platform and weighs 325-grams for a pair.


At the heart of the Candy pedal is the sprung wing assembly that sets all of Crankbrothers' clipless pedals apart from the SPD-compatible crowd. Given the shape of the mechanism, it's no surprise that their lighter weight cross-country pedal that goes without the platform is called the Eggbeater, and the Candy is essentially that pedal but with an aluminum body surrounding the stainless steel wings.

Those so-called wings are actually two separate pieces sitting perpendicular to each other and on a tube that can rotate within the cage. A stainless steel spring sits in the middle of it all, and there's really just four pieces to the clip mechanism in total, making it one of the simpler designs out there. It also means there is no way to preload the spring to adjust entry or release tension.

Crankbrothers Candy 7
Crankbrothers Candy 7
The 'wings' are two separate pieces (left) with a wound steel spring at the center, and the whole assembly rotates on bushings (right) set into either side of the cage.

The Candy platform has chamfers everywhere to hopefully keep you moving forward when you snag it on a rock or root, but it's not the kind of thing you'd want to stand on for very long, especially since it tapers down towards the forward and rearward edges. The idea isn't to be a big downhill pedal, though, but rather to provide some extra support for your shoes by creating more contact area between the outsoles and the pedal body.

Instead of adjustable pins that are guaranteed to eventually be smashed off, Crankbrothers lets customers tune the shoe and pedal interface via thin spacers that can be installed under the cleats, which isn't anything new, or 'traction pads' that clip onto the body to essentially raise it up slightly to meet the shoe. The stock height is just 1mm, or you can slide them out (they're really, really tight and there are four on each pedal body) and use 2mm tall pads. That single millimeter doesn't sound like much, but I learned that it makes a massive difference in how the Candy performs.

The pedals come with both sizes, and you can pick them up directly from Crankbrothers for $14.99 USD.
Crankbrothers Candy 7
The 'traction pads' slide into grooves to effectively change the height of the pedal body. Your shoe's sole should make contact with them.

The body is split, too, with two long Torx-head screws tying each side together around the clip mechanism that rotates on two bushings within the body. Crankbrothers says that this makes the Candy four-sided like their Eggbeater pedal, but there are really only two sides to the Candy. Letting the mechanism spin inside the body should mean that mud flows through and falls right out, though, and unlike an SPD-type pedal, there's almost nowhere for mud to get stuck.

Crankbrothers Candy 7
The split body provides access to clip mechanism in the center, with the two halves being held together with steel Torx head screws.

Internally, the 7 uses a steel axle with an inboard bushing, and there's one pint-sized sealed bearing that looks like it belongs on an R/C car out at the outboard end. An aluminum cap threads into the pedal body and snugs it down onto the axle, while a small nut beneath that ensures that nothing can come apart. It's also worth noting that Crankbrothers has made the bore large enough that you don't need a silly thin-walled socket (that's probably not where you left it last) to remove the nut - kudos, Crankbrothers.

Crankbrothers sells a ton of small bits on their website to keep their pedals running smoothly, with the Pedal Refresh Kit costing $24.99 USD and coming with bearings, bushings, seals, nuts, and a tool. Titanium spindles go for $150 USD, and the Long Spindle Upgrade Kit takes the Q-factor from 52mm stock to 57mm for $49.99. If your shoes have carbon soles, you might want to pick up the $9.99 Shoe Shields that keep the wings from digging into them (more on that later), and there are also four different cleat options to choose from.

Crankbrothers cleats
You want options? Crankbrothers has expanded its cleat selection to provide different amounts of float (zero float to 6-degrees) and different release angles (10-degrees to 15-degrees). On top of that, swapping the standard gold-colored cleats around will give you a 20-degree release angle.

Remember when I moaned about Crankbrothers' pedals not offering adjustable release tension? Instead, they've come up with four differently shaped brass cleats that provide different amounts of float and change the release angle. The standard, gold-colored cleats offer 6-degrees of float and let your feet out when they hit 15-degrees, but the bronze cleats will give you no float and the same 15-degrees until release. If you want to get out of the pedal sooner, the rose cleats give have 6-degree of float and a 10-degree release, or the silver cleats provide no float and the same 10-degree release angle. But wait, there's even more; you can also run the standard gold cleats, the ones that come stock with the Candy 7 pedal, in reverse (left cleat on the right shoe and vice versa) to get a 20-degree release angle.

When you combine all the cleat options, the longer spindles for a wider Q-factor, and the adjustable traction pads, it turns out the Candy is an extremely tuneable pedal design... You just have to take the time to set them up correctly.

Crankbrothers Candy 7
The mid-sized platform is awkward to stand on, but it does provide loads of support underfoot when you're clipped-in.


Crankbrothers' pedals are probably the second most commonly used option out there, next to anything with that SPD acronym on it, but this was actually my first go with them. It didn't start well, either, but only because they have to be set-up correctly for them to work as intended, which I hadn't done. Ideally, there will be no gap between the steel wings and the sole of your shoes, and no gap between the body of the pedal and the lugs; this gives you the most support and eliminates that 'I'm standing on a ball bearing' feeling of all of your weight resting on the pedal's wings.

Crankbrothers Candy 7
Crankbrothers Candy 7
Spot the difference? The slight gap between the pedal body and the shoe's sole meant that most of my weight was being supported by the wings alone, which left a groove in the carbon sole. On the right, the taller traction pads have been installed and the shoe is better supported by the pedal body. This made all the difference in the world.

To adjust the gap between the shoe and pedal, Crankbrothers uses shims under their brass cleats and those aforementioned traction pads that sit on either side of the body. If the lugs of the shoe are resting on the pads and there's a gap between the wings and sole, even just a millimeter or two, you should fit a spacer under the cleat to bring it closer. But if you're clipped-in and there's a gap between the black pads and the lugs of the shoe, you need to install the taller 2mm pads, which is exactly what I did after using the Candy 7s for a while.

Crankbrothers Candy 7
The difference in height is just a single millimeter, but it matters. Also, the fit is extremely tight and they took some muscle to get off, but you won't be losing them on the trail.

Without the taller pads, and my weight and the Giro shoe's carbon sole resting directly onto the wings, it felt a lot like I was standing on top of a tiny ball bearing while pedaling. The engagement was sloppy feeling, too, and I was pulling out of the pedal far too often. Turns out that was caused by user error, however, with a closer look revealing that I needed to use the taller, 2mm traction pads so the pedal body had more contact with my shoe.

What a massive difference it made, too.

With that initial sub-par set-up that certainly falls under the category of user error and nothing else, which is ridiculous because they come with great instructions, I wasn't that stoked about the performance. But with the taller pads installed and the cleats reversed to give me a 20-degree release angle instead of the standard 15-degrees, it was an entirely different story.

Crankbrothers Candy 7
The body sports chamfered edges to help it glance off of rocks and whatnot, and they've held up quite well.

Compared to a pedal that uses an SPD mechanism, clipping into the Candy doesn't deliver that same 'ka-chung' feeling that tells you that you're now one with the bike. There's pretty much no audible click when it happens, and while it's certainly a bit vaguer than most others pedals out there, you can feel the cleats lock into the pedal's wings through the soles of your shoes. It's not better or worse, but it is different.

The standard gold-colored cleats that I'm using offer 6-degrees of float that feels quite unrestrictive, which is a good thing, and then the tension ramps up as you reach the release angle. That's 15-degrees with the left cleat on the left shoe and the right where it belongs.

More than a decade of using platform pedals exclusively means that I tend to use a lot of ''foot English'' when I'm riding; I'll angle my feet depending on what I'm doing, and sometimes it's enough for them to pop out of the pedal. But swapping the cleats around gave me 20-degrees to play with and eliminated the majority of the accidental releases.

Clipping in with SPD-style pedals calls for you to sort of toe into them before pushing down with your heel, a motion that quickly becomes second nature, but you can literally just step down onto Crankbrothers' pedals and click into them. It doesn't get any easier than that.

The shoe and pedal interface was nice and snug once I installed the taller traction pads, despite my instance on wearing Giro's Yeezy-esque Empire VR70 Knit cross-country shoe that has some sparse lugs on the bottom of it.
Crankbrothers Candy 7
You can just see how the nose of the cleat fits under the forward wing.

When not clipped-in and standing on the mid-sized body, it certainly feels more small-sized than anything else. And this will be magnified if your shoes don't have flat bottoms like a skate-style shoe, but the body isn't there to stand on; get the Mallet DH pedals if that's what you want to do. The Candy's cage does provide a good amount of support when you're clipped in, however, which is exactly what it's designed to do.

Crankbrothers Candy 7
The pedal was nearly flawless once set-up correctly, but I'm not a fan of it releasing when the bottom of the mechanism makes contact with the ground.

Okay, onto the less good things. While not a knock against them, the design means that you must take the time to set them up correctly, which I didn't do initially. You should be doing that with any type of pedal, of course, but it's especially important with these.

My only real grumble with the pedals is that they can release your foot if the mechanism on the bottom of the pedal hits the ground or anything else. Because the wings are just two separate pieces with a spring between them, it can open if you hit the opposite side. This has happened a handful of times when I was in a rut and caught a pedal, and a few times when I took a pedal stroke too early and one hit the ground. Rider error, sure, but I still don't want to unclip.

I also discovered that the wings have been wearing grooves into the carbon outsoles of my shoes (pictured to the right), which can't be a good thing.

This was no doubt happening partly because I didn't have the taller traction pads installed that would have taken some load off of the sole, but Crankbrothers does say that the wings should make contact with the sole in the cleat pocket. What I needed was the $9.99 USD Shoe Shield Kit that's a pair of really thin steel shims that go under your cleat and protect the carbon sole, and while they're not exactly pricey, I'd need to buy those separately. Also, I don't want to buy them separately just because my shoes are fancy; the pedals should just work without needing to thinking about them grinding into my carbon soles.
Crankbrothers Candy 7
The grooves aren't anything to be concerned about, but I'll need to get a set of the Shoe Shields to keep it from getting worse.

The sealed bearing on the outboard end of the axle is a little worse for wear, too, with it being quite rusty on the outside and rough feeling on the inside. To be fair, I nearly built an ark for myself and the dogs this spring, so I'd have been surprised if it was still spinning smoothly. Aside from that, one of the aluminum caps did back off once and the pedal body shifted around on the axle, but things have been just fine on the reliability front otherwise. The body wouldn't have ever come off - the small nut is actually what holds it on - and a 6mm hex key fixed the issue in seconds.


+ Lightweight
+ Very intuitive entry / exit
+ Customizable float and release angle options

- Traction pads can be difficult to remove
- Bearing life could be better
- Can release when hit from the underside

Pinkbike's Take:
bigquotesCrankbrothers has won me over with the Candy 7 pedal. It's vital that they're set-up correctly, of course, and the performed well once that was done. If you want a bit more support underfoot than a tiny cross-country pedal but don't need a full-sized platform, the Candy is worth considering.  Mike Levy


  • 34 5
 They do come in a nice box though.
  • 16 15
 I bet the box is more durable than their pedals and last longer than their cleats
  • 16 1
 @oldtech: I have put over 3800 miles on my set of Eggbeaters (both pedals and cleats) Other than the occasional regrease they have been flawless!!! The cleats are worn down and clip out a little easier than before but I would say that they have held up well.
  • 3 2
 I do get compliments about the box!
  • 35 13
 - Bearing life could be better - Can release when hit from the underside For the price of a couple of XT pairs, that are some pretty big cons...
  • 26 12
 The lack of float of XTs then necessity to set them hard as fuk to avoid unclipping unintentionally, cage being too flat making the shoe wobble around, makes them a hard sell for me. Also CB has improved their bearing life a lot (haven’t serviced them at all since I bought them last spring) and the large cage around Mallets makes it quite unlikely to hit something with the mechanism. Most horror stories of bent cages come from owners of Eggbeaters. I also wasted the mechanism in my Time MX4, and if I was to go for Anything but CB, I’d go for Time Atac which beat XT in every single aspect, leaving you only with preference of how the pedal feels.
  • 14 7
 Sure you can buy the pedals for a fraction of the cost, but with Crankbrothers you get what you pay for. The feel of the pedals is second to none and feel is the biggest reason to choose certain parts.
  • 8 24
flag lukeb (Jun 26, 2019 at 5:21) (Below Threshold)
 @TheSlayer99: "The feel of the pedals"

Have a word with yourself mate.
  • 9 11
 Expensive, uclippy, less "positive" feel than XT..... these are all the reasons I ditched CB pedals 10+ years ago........ some things never change. Their flats look nice though...... Smile
  • 7 3
 @WAKIdesigns: I don't experience any issues with accidental release, and while I run the tension firm it's nowhere near maxed and my foot comes out easily on demand. I clip rocks fairly regularly riding the trails here in New England so releasing from a underside strike is a non-starter. XT is an incredible pedal for the price.
  • 6 4
 “Price of a couple pair of xt’s”... online im finding the candy 7s the same price if not cheaper than the XT. Do your googling before posting dumb fanboy claims. Thanks.
  • 8 1
 @FatTonyNJ: with exception to price, I could say the same about any spd pedals. Crankbrothers are just plain better for all around riding.
  • 7 0
 Don't like the price? Candy's come in 5 different price points ($60 to $170 (I didn't include the 11's at $450 because that's stupid)).

I run the cheapest (and lightest 294 grams) Candy 1's (composite body), race enduro on them and bash the shit out of them. They are standing up and work flawlessly... all for $60.

To be clear, since switching from flats, I've used XT's, then Look's Enrage and prefer the Candy's.
  • 1 2
 @WAKIdesigns: Which XT pedals are you referring to? It sounds like I may have to give them a shot.

I don't have much experience with clipless pedals, but that really surprises me that you have issues with unintentionally unclipping. I have a pair of XT PD-M780s that I occasionally use on my hardtail and never have any issues with my feet unclipping. I run them super loose too. I actually disassembled them and reversed the little, black, threaded plate on the adjustment screws so I can run them even looser than normally possible. Still no issues. Granted, I usually ride flat pedals, so maybe I don't rely much on the cleats to keep my feet on? I also find the amount of float they have to be a bit excessive and disconcerting at times, although that could be a whole other conversation.
  • 4 1
 @dlxah: I clipped out on a dozen of occasions in rough corners or when jumping. Simple: zero float while twisting body for cornering. I was even getting knee pain from Leaning against the float limit. I owned a few sets of PD424 and one DX. Stock shimano cleats were down right awful. So was the mechanism on DX. Which is the same as the mechanism on current ones. PD424 + wellgo cleats offered best balance of clipping out intentionally and staying put. I had DX for no more than 10 rides.

I switched to flats only for a year, then got CB Candy. Then flats again. One day I thought, time to get SPDs another go. Bought Deore trail, rode twice, sold them. A week later I was already riding Time Atac, then MX4. After I heard that CBros hot better I got mallets.

I won’t give Shimano a go. Ever. Again.
  • 2 0
 @WAKIdesigns: Interesting. So then how do you corner on flats, which have essentially zero float unless you unweight your feet? I've never found it to be an issue, or maybe I just don't know what I'm missing. I always thought the float was there to help prevent your feet from accidentally unclipping when you're getting rattled through rock gardens and such. But to me, it just makes me feel disconnected from the bike like my feet are about to slip off. I'm sure that mental block would go away if I spent more time on them, but that's not the only reason I don't like float.
  • 2 2
 @WAKIdesigns: This simply has to be something you are doing. Iv'e ridden SPD for years, including racing DH on them. Properly set up I very rarely come out unless its planned.
  • 4 1
 They missed the biggest plus in comparison to other pedals, which is "Incredibly easy to get into even when they're packed with mud or snow."

In 10 years on various Crank Bros pedals, I've never once had to clean them out before I could get clipped in.
  • 3 2
 @DARKSTAR63: possibly. But ultimately it is no float that makes it a no go for me.
  • 1 0
 I wouldn't use shimano again because of knee pain. It's a shame, they are cheap and well made. I've got these Candy ones on my road bike, and Mallet DHs on my mountain bike. I use the same ME7 shoes for both. I would not fancy using these for MTB though. They are much too small and difficult to clip into. I have a couple of times rolled off the front of the pedal whilst trying to locate the binding mechanism and clip in. One time smacked my perineum, one time almost snapped my thumb off backwards. The Mallets are much easier to clip into, an I've been suing mine pretty regularly for six or seven years. I would certainly not recommend the use of Candy pedals off road. Like with tyres, the weight saving is not worth the decrease in performance.
  • 1 1
 @jaame: I was about to bring it up. I had knee pain from unclipping from Shimano.
  • 1 0
 @jaame: I've had the opposite experience using Candy's... I don't find them to small at all for aggressive off road and enduro racing. I tried a friends Mallet E's for a bit to see if I found any difference and didn't so kept on going with my Candy's that are half the price and weight. I find them extremely easy to clip into...
  • 11 0
 I've had a pair of Candy 7's for about 9 months now and love them. I've never had the mentioned clip-out when struck from the underside and it's very rocky where I live. Also, I did install the under cleat shims that came with the pedals (and are pictured if you click on one of the pictures and scroll through them) to prevent the gouging the tester had. If he had followed the directions and installed them this would not have happened.

I really like the platform which provides just enough area to keep your foot stable when you have one of those "Swing and a Miss" moments. Yes, they do take some time to get set up but when you get it right I found them much more agreeable then an SPD Pedal. As an older rider I really like the cleat options that allow for a tuned release angle. I think they would be great for anyone with limited leg rotation either from age or injury. To date I've got just over 700 miles on them and no sign of bearing issues. I run the Rose 10* Release/6* Float cleats on Specialized Expert XC shoes. For me they've been worth every penny. each their own. Cheers.
  • 4 0
 Same experience here... Tried XT's and Look Enrage, and now using Candy 1's with the rose cleats. After years of riding flats, I like quick release angle. Also have not noticed the hits from underneath releasing my pedals. I actually experienced more accidental release with XT's than Candy's. Which I think stems from the non adjustable release angle on XT's that forced me to run a pretty light tension so I could run them more "flat pedal like" and get out quick.

Crank bros allowing you to use cleats with a shallow angle of release gives you the best of both worlds. Good tension while you want to be clipped yet a shallower release to get out quick.

Don't want to get out quick and want a bigger release angle, use the other optional cleats.... win/win.

And yes, shims come in the box as does a very handy chart showing you exactly how to set the pedals up with your shoes to ensure a perfect fit and zero issues. Had the reviewer followed the simple instructions he would have gotten to his end result on the first ride.
  • 1 0
 BTW, Jenson USA has them on sale for $135.20.
  • 5 1
 I like these better than M520s on my commuter/road/gravel thrashbox. Bit more support under foot and extra float completely eliminated the foot hotspots and sore knees from the shimano's.

In saying that flats and 5 tens FTW on the MTB.
  • 2 0
 The composite ones worked out great for my gravel bike. 10/10
  • 2 0
 I had the composites on my road/gravel bike and loved them. i have the commuter pedal on now because that bike gets ridden to the bar as often as it goes on 40 mile spins. loving those too (even though they're huge)
  • 3 0
 Mike, you write-up is spot on, and set up is crucial, and if done right gives you a real good feel on the pedal. These are my favorite pedals and over the last 25 years I've spent major time on all the clippies. Two reasons I like these the best. One, unintentional releases are rare compared to SPDs. Take time to set them up right and "blowouts" only happen if you get real sloppy. Two, the cleat is much more "concealed" than an SPD, and when you do a hike-a-bike you don't feel like you are skating on a bottle cap like you do on SPD cleats. They are relatively reliable and serviceable, and CB are good if you need small parts. Shimano pedals are more reliable, but due to the two issues above I'd take the C7s any day. I've also been running Mallets on my DH rig for years.
  • 4 0
 Just get the Candy 1's. Lighter + same performance.

I have them on two bikes and they've been rock solid as trail pedals. Even if they fail they're so cheap it's not really a big deal at all.
  • 3 0
 If your CB pedals start feeling sloppy, all you have to do is replace the cleats. The cleat material is softer than the "wings" they clip into so they need to be changed out every season or two because of cleat deformation. Much cheaper than swapping out a worn out pedal but I could see SPD people not liking this.
  • 5 3
 @watchmen haha so true they must spend a fortune on packaging - and how many people these days actually see the box before they've ordered the product. It's not like it makes a difference.
CRC could ship it to me in a nappy sac and as long it's good value I'd be happy.
  • 13 6
 This goes out of hand for sure, but at the same time it has to hang in a bike shop for customers to see. Shimano is the worst though, it’s hard to even use it in the shop. Did you see the size of boxes that Shimano stuff comes in? You could fit 10 rotors in a package for a single, shitty, Deore rotor. Not to mention the bloody shoe box for their brakes or shifters. And then each thing comes with Encyclopedia Brittanica of safety instructions so that Billy Bobby won’t hurt himself while installing a fricking brake rotor with 6 bloody bolts, and won’t sue them.
  • 12 0
 @WAKIdesigns: ever bought sram eagle gear? It makes shimano packing look economical, you could literally get 20 shifters in to a box for 1 eagle shifter, after you take out the giant slab of plastic that makes it look like a flash chocolate. its like they are trying to push deforestation AND global warming with that shit.
  • 3 1
 @zyoungson: I'll check that out.
  • 1 0
 I run crank bros on all my bikes since my first clip in pedals under the xmas tree at 15 were the original mallet. I have Eggbeaters on the gravel and track bikes, and then I have tried candys and mallet enduros on my trail bike(s). The Candys did not have enough support for long downhills, although I used the successfully for more XC type riding for ten years. My most recent pair also had a weird clipping issue I haven't had with the other 8ish pairs my family has (including several other Candy pedals). I use flats a lot on my trail bike starting this spring, but I will probably throw the mallets back on again sometimes.

Also, on my track bike, I have found that once the clips start to wear down, you can come unclipped when trying to skid/brake just by pulling straight up and out of the pedal. This only seems to happen on steep hills when I really don't want it to....
  • 1 0
 I've always used SPD's, mostly out of habit. 1 bad experience with CB, 100% my fault...bad setup. Can anyone speak to how the brass cleats holdup? My logic brain says brass on steel technically wears out a little bit every time you twist them, but I didn't keep mine long enough to find out. Might be willing to try them again after proper setup since you can just step on them.
  • 1 0
 Be prepared to replace the more frequently than you would an spd cleat
  • 1 1
 The bars on crank bros pedals are (conveniently) rough so they chew in to the brass cleat. You get a few weeks of the pedals feeling tight and if you are lucky 4-6 months before they are completely gone and almost dangerous to ride. Never used to be like that the egg beater part was always shiny and smooth and the cleats lasted a lot longer. funny how these things change. Do yourself a favour and get rid of that shit, flats for life.
  • 1 0
 Sounds like the new pedals are an improvement"over the older ones.??
The old ones had 1 seal, one busing and one bearing. The new ones have 3 seals, 3 bushings and one bearing.
Yes CB deserves some credit for selling repair kits, but by the time you get them here, ya might as well invest in new pedals. Credit also to CB, they did send me a bunch of parts gratis a while ago. The seals are great but the bushings don't fit anything.
The author of the review is missing a major detail on the stainless shoe protector plates. These are intended to move the cleat closer to the shoe and free up interference between the sole and the platform, not to protect the plastic sole. I have used them for the latter and they work, but at the expense of additional shoe pedal clearance, aka .... flop.
Some like em and some don't. I gave up on them years ago and still have a box of broken springs and spare parts. I hate to think of how many pairs of SPDs I could have bought for the past investment.
My take, too much maintenance required (but it is really easy though) too much flop. they wear out too quickly and they are generally expensive compared to alternatives. The Ti ones are just like fine jewelry, same price too.
  • 1 0
 I've been running Crank Brothers pedals since the Egg Beater was the only one they made. I'm not sure what guys do to them, but despite zero maintenance and multiple pedal strikes during each ride (I like bikes with low bottom brackets), I've never had a failure.

These days I prefer a pedal with a larger platform so I use the Mallet and Mallet DH pedals on my trail and enduro bikes, but I do like the Candy for road use.
  • 4 1
 Just buy eggbeater 3's and put some griptape on the axle. It's lighter, way cheaper and works just as well...
  • 3 0
 Yeah this is my setup atm. Tried both Candy and Eggbeaters and stuck with the ‘beaters. The platform with the Candies is just so small and makes the same amount of contact with the shoe as the contact pad things on the eggbeaters. So if you’re not gonna run a rubber type sole with Mallets then you might as well go full eggbeater imo
  • 5 2
 I thought the "with wings" thing was some feminine product.
  • 2 0
 I still prefer composite pedals of any variety over aluminium. Love my Candy 1's. Cheap, light, comfortable.
  • 1 0
 The crowd that would want inbetween pedals doesnt really change pedals or takes anything else than shimano. Aka the people that ride bikes but dont read pinkbike
  • 16 17
 To people wondering if CB's pedals are reliable : it's the only brand that sells rebuild kits. On any other brand you don't need those, a pair of Shimano or Time will probably outlast one or two bikes.
  • 20 11
 Over a year on latest Mallet DH, no sign of them needing any care.
  • 13 1
 I’ve had a set of mallet dh’s fot 2 and a half years and I would just now consider a rebuild. For the cost of the rebuild kit I’d gladly pay for it in time and money to ride the best feeling pedals on the market.
  • 13 1
 Here I am with a year on candy 1's, no signs of needing a rebuild yet. I think that CV offering this rebuild kits MAY speak for the pedals not being as good as shimano in durability, but rather CB caring about the portion of their customers that like to do maintenance on their own
  • 3 1
 Well, I did have to change the bushings on my Time xc6 at one point, it was after several years of considerable riding though.
  • 1 0
 Im also on some mallets over the last year and they feel like that the spring starts to loose tension. the feeling in the pedal is very loose i can easily move my heel from left to right, also with some new cleats this behaviour does not change. i recently tried a friends bike with the exact same pedals and i nearly tumbled over because his pedals are way stronger than mine. Anybody else got the same problem/experience? i also dissembled the pedal once in order to clean and grease it, is it possible that i assembled it wrong?
  • 4 0
 I've been riding the same pair of Candy 2's since 2012. They outlasted one bike and probably will outlast the bike they're on now. Held up to years of high desert riding in Idaho without any problems and performed just as well through the last few years of year-round PNW riding. I did "rebuild" them a couple years ago, but that was more out of curiosity than necessity. No reliability issues here.
  • 1 0
 I have 4 sets of time ATAC MX8 pedals. At one point I had a pair on every bike and out trainer. With in a coupe of months every set has developed play/slop at the bushing.

So they don't last that long! Still have a set on the trainer, but the rest are in the spare parts bin. Two sets of Mallets in the rotation now are standing up to abuse much better, and the platform feels a lot more positive/connected also, so less unexpected unclipping.
  • 2 0
 I have personally seen my friends 2012ish mallet body detach from the axle and being stuck in the shoe. But this seems to not be the case anymore
  • 4 0
 I'm 3 years on my mallet DH without any need of service.

And how can you bash a company for selling rebuild kits? since when is making service accessible a negative? I'm more likely to buy from a company that makes buying spare small parts easier rather than harder.
  • 3 0
 @lognar: definitely agree. Most companies sell rebuild kits actually - any company worth buying from anyway. Hope, Chromag, DMR, they all do. The fact that they are easy to grab from CB is a plus. Currently running 2x Stamp 7's and 2x Mallet DH pedals, and all are perfect.

I bought a set of Nukeproof Horizon pedals a coupe years ago. After 6 months the bearings/bushings were pooched and good ol' CRC didn't stock the bushings to fix them - that was a shitstink. They ended up refunding the purchase.
  • 1 0
 @privateer-wbc: I struck my MX4 against a stump once and the spring broke. Didn’t notice it at first so after I clipped in into broken side unknowingly my foot clipped out when landing off a jump and dislocated my toe. Nothing strange but that’s exactly what CBs are accused of.
  • 3 0
 @WAKIdesigns: doesn't surprise me. Parts break when you slam them into hard objects. Shimano parts included.

People love to hate Crank Brothers because of their past failures with pedals and seatposts. But the fact of the matter is, the new generation of products are much much better - design and execution. CB is solid.

Yeah, springs will break on time/CB on rare occasion. Maybe more frequently than breakage of an SPD spring (which are not immune themselves). But, I will take that over zero float of SPD any day.
  • 1 0
 Spank offers rebuild kits. And they are not crap pedals. Been in mine for three years, not needed to rebuild, but glad I have the option.
  • 3 0
 Or they just prefer to give customers the option to fix their existing pedals instead of buying a new set every time? I don't see how them offering kits is a bad thing in any possible way.
  • 1 0
 I have over 3K miles of singletrack on my current Candy's, including frequent bashes into rocks. They're fantastic.
  • 2 0
 A nice check will win me too!
  • 2 2
 Candys, Eggbeaters, Acids, Mallets, oh my! So many broken spindles and blown bearings over the years. Switched to Shimano and never looked back.
  • 1 1
 Wings usually means can fly, think platform is more accurate hear?
  • 3 1
 The springs are the wings, not the small platform.
  • 2 4
 brass cleats are the worst -pretty much useless if you tend to push your bike a lot
  • 5 4
 Get Shimano shoes, they have a more recessed platform. You will barely hear me walking in them with CB or Time cleats on marble floor. If you on the other hand go in 5.10s with Shimano cleats...
  • 2 1
 @WAKIdesigns: so true. I’m using the plastic spacer under the cleat and even with that my shimano am5 sit so low on the mallet e that i had to lower the pin height.
  • 2 2
 Candy pedals? so 2004.
  • 1 4
 Good work on changing the title from "pedal popular with trail riders" to something that isn't a complete lie.
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