Review: Enve AM30 Carbon Wheels

Sep 29, 2020
by Mike Kazimer  

Enve's AM30 carbon wheels launched earlier this year, aimed at everyone from trail to enduro riders on bikes with between 110 – 180mm of suspension travel. Don't worry, they're hardtail compatible - that recommendation is Enve's way of making it easier to understand the wheel's intended use.

The rims are made in Ogden, Utah, where they're laced up to Industry Nine's 1/1 hubs with 28 Sapim spokes. There are 29” and 27.5” versions, and the $1,600 wheelset comes with Enve's lifetime incident protection, which covers everything from a poorly executed huck to accidents like leaving your rim too close to a hot exhaust.

My 29” test set of wheels weighed in at 1883 grams – 876 grams for the front, and 1007 grams for the rear. They were mounted to a Norco Optic for most of the test period, and have been ridden hard on a wide variety of terrain over the last five months.
Enve AM30 Details

• Intended use: all-mountain / enduro
• 29" and 27.5" options
• 30mm internal width
• 28 Sapim spokes, brass nipples
• Industry Nine 1/1 hubs
• Lifetime incident protection
• Made in USA
• Weight: 1883g; front: 876g / rear: 1007g (actual, 29")
• MSRP: $1600 USD
www.enve.com


Rim Design

The AM30's carbon rims have a 30mm internal width, and an overall height of 20mm. That height is lower than many of Enve's previous rims, and was done as a way to give the rims more compliance. That low height also forced Enve to move the spoke nipples to the outside of the rim, a very welcome design change. Previously, it was necessary to remove the tire and rim tape just to true a wheel, something that made me grumble in annoyance every time.

28 spoke holes are molded into the rim, with a 3mm of offset to help balance spoke tension between the drive- and non-drive side. The rims uses a wide, hookless bead that's meant to help prevent pinch flats – the larger surface spreads out the force of an impact, rather than having the tire smash down onto a sharp ledge. I didn't experience any flats during testing, and I typically run relatively lower tire pressures. I also don't flat that often with any wheels, so take that as you will.


Hub Design

Enve don't have their own MTB hub (at least not yet), so they handed that task over to Industry Nine. The US-made 1/1 hub use a six pawl driver and 45-tooth drive ring to achieve 4-degrees between engagement points. I'm not a fan of loud hubs, so I quieted the ratcheting racket down by adding some Dumonde Tech freehub oil to the drive ring. That made a big difference, and the sound while coasting was much more tolerable to my ears.

Setup

Getting the AM30 wheels set up didn't pose any problems. I've had a few different tires configurations on them over the last few months, with widths ranging from 2.3” to 2.5”, and in all cases I was able to get them seated and sealed without an air compressor. Tire pressures during testing were typically 21 psi in the front, and 23 in the rear, numbers that work well for my weight and Pacific Northwest location.

The only setup related gripe I have has to do with the Centerlock-only hubs – I hate needing to use an adaptor to run SRAM or other 6-bolt rotors.




Ride Quality

When carbon wheels first came out, stiffness was the quality that was most often touted as one of the main benefits. Nowadays, “compliance” is the new buzzword when it come to how a set of wheels feel on the trail. Why the change? Well, a set of super stiff wheels may feel precise and responsive, but they can also start to feel uncomfortable and harsh on longer rides, and can be more difficult to keep on line in really rough terrain.

Enve got it right with the AM30 rims, and there's no hint of the jarring, wooden feeling that accompanied their earlier offerings. They don't mute impacts quite as much as Zipp's 3Zero Moto wheels, but with the Zipps there were times I felt they were too compliant, while with the AM30's that was never the case. They're supportive enough for pushing hard into corners without any vagueness, while still remaining very comfortable in chunky terrain. They take the edge off chattery section of trail without muting things too much, which is an ideal characteristic for a set of wheels in this category.

As far as the Industry Nine 1/1 hub goes, that 4-degrees between engagement points is more than quick enough for me, and they haven't made any concerning clicks or pops during steep climbs or other hard efforts.


Durability

Rims
It's no secret that we've broken a number of Enve rims during testing over the years here at Pinkbike. Their record isn't exactly spotless, so I made sure to put in enough miles on the AM30 to be able to offer an accurate assessment of their durability.

The verdict? My wheels have held up extremely well, and I haven't held back on them over the last five months. I haven't had to tension or true the wheels at all during the test period, and they've been subjected to plenty of rough, chunky terrain. In one instance, I came up short on a double, causing the rear wheel to hit the log at the top of the landing with a resounding “thwack”. I was sure I'd done some damage – it was an impact that would certainly have dented an alloy rim – but the wheel was still spinning straight, and the tire hadn't even lost any air pressure.

I don't fuss much over scrapes and scuffs on a set of wheels, but it's worth noting that the finish on the AM30 rims has held up very well.

Hubs
The hubs have held up well too, and the bearings are all still spinning smooth. I did need to pull the freehub body off and do some cleaning and re-lubricating to get rid of an intermittent creak that began after a stint of extra-dusty rides. That process only took a few minutes, and after that it was smooth sailing once again.

I'm a fan of the leaf springs under the 1/1's pawls rather than the microscopic springs that were used in I9's older designs – those had a tendency to jump out and roll into the deepest corners of my basement as soon as I pulled a hub apart.

Price / Weight

Enve AM30


The chart above gives helps illustrate where the AM30s stack up. The fact that they're made in the US does raise the price, but the price is lower than Enve's previous offerings, and it's still not as much as those Zipp's, which are also made in America.




Pros

+ Excellent ride quality
+ Low maintenance, good durability after 5 months of use


Cons

- Still on the more expensive side of the spectrum
- Centerlock only hubs




Pinkbike's Take

bigquotesEnve headed down a different route with the AM30 wheels, and it paid off. The new rim profile, external nipples, and the lower price compared to Enve's previous offerings are all welcome changes. The fact that they felt great out on the trail, and held up well without any durability issues is even better. Here's hoping that they can continue in this direction with the rest of their lineup. Mike Kazimer








250 Comments

  • 157 10
 Wait, Enve is attempting the affordable angle? Let’s all hate on them for listening to the comments section.
  • 14 3
 Spot on.
  • 28 76
flag ilovedust (Sep 29, 2020 at 8:44) (Below Threshold)
 Attempting maybe.
Achieving no.
I appreciate ‘affordable’ is a subjective term but that is still what most would pay for the whole bike.
So really your just making it ‘justifiable’ to those that can afford it already and sit on the fence of a) a domestic violence incident or b) the why bother upgrading crew!
  • 59 4
 @ilovedust: point me to the guy who buys a $1600 bike that is also considering buying carbon wheels. I won't hold my breath.
  • 20 1
 @gally-nh: tbf, Ive seen a guy at my local trails with a boardman full suss (not a bad bike, but around 1k new definitely in the 'budget' category) that he's put fox 36 factory and a dpx2 factory, full x01 eagle, guide ultimate brakes, carbon rims and a whole load more goodies on. Guessing he's planning a frame swap at some point, but it does happen.
  • 45 1
 @inked-up-metalhead: I kinda want to party with that guy now. He'll show up to your house with a six pack of Bud Light and next thing you know you're on a rooftop in Vegas with SI swimsuit models.
  • 11 0
 @gally-nh: but the swim suit models with be fat bulgarian men in tiny bikinis. Ie. The guy is dressing up something that will still be that same thing.
  • 3 2
 i mean it still took em 15 years to get down from their high horse..
  • 8 3
 Affordable $1600 wheelset? Maybe if it was Lira and not USD....
  • 11 3
 @schlockinz:
My pair of 29 XM481 laced to DT 240s with CXRays weight the same for 700 euros...
Still doesn't get the carbon thing...
  • 2 0
 @gally-nh: i work at a shop... a guy bought industry 9 Enduro 29 (carbon rim hydra hubs 1500 or so dollars)

He rides a 6 year old base level Fuji.

we had to send the wheels back to get 142 and 100 spaced hubs.

so yes... there is at least one.
  • 104 19
 The logos aren't big enough, unfortunately. I need the other dentists, lawyers, and doctors to know I am riding ENVEs or the price isn't justified.
  • 12 7
 fashion over function
  • 5 7
 @stumphumper92: once a dentist said:
  • 35 15
 The purpose of ENVE products isn't performance; they are tools to help you ascend the social hierarchy. Its a shame they can't be bright neon.
  • 41 4
 Smaller logos- because you don't want to advertise that you could only afford the "budget" ENVE's!
  • 20 2
 @aka-bigsteve: Well, everyone needs to start somewhere? I just opened my practice and am in a ton of debt, so budget ENVEs for me.
  • 6 0
 dont worry everyone, ENVE has this covered

www.enve.com/en/custom-decals
  • 4 0
 @mariomtblt: Nice, maybe I can do these after all. My buddies will be super impressed. I am going to match my yeti and my dentist coat with my color scheme!
  • 1 2
 ZIPP
  • 5 5
 When’s the last time any of you looked at the median income of a doctor, lawyer, or dentist? Compare that with the massive student loan debt from school. The vast majority of them aren’t rolling in the dough.
  • 1 0
 @gnarlysipes: spot on. Thanks for noticing.
  • 3 3
 @gnarlysipes:
Okay, but now compare the income of doctors, dentist, lawyer to income of engineers, social workers, scientists, teachers, etc... that have basically the same student loan debt...
  • 1 0
 @gnralized: No way a teacher has $700k or more in student loans. Most PhD scientists work their way through their PhD doing research, or have grants. Very few have to use massive student loans for their post-graduate studies, and none of them approach the cost of Medical School.
  • 1 0
 @hamncheez:
Being PhD myself with post-doc experience in Canada, I know what it cost to get a MSc from a private U as Mc Gill, for instance. Usually it is more around 50-70 kCAD. In US (not Canada) the 2019 average debt for medical students was around $200k for an average income between $223 and $329 k. thephysicianphilosopher.com/how-much-money-do-doctors-make-why-it-doesnt-matter
Never heard about 700k dept even in medical science...
Concerning other sciences school then medicine, even if you get a fellowship for your PhD (3 to 4 years) it's pretty uncommon to start reimbursing your dept before getting a job i.e. after 2 to 4 years of postdoctoral studies.
  • 3 0
 @gnralized: ok the real question is, do you have a yeti??
  • 1 1
 @gnralized: not in America 300k-500k for high paying trades is the norm.

my partner is a vet and has 350k in student debt. I am an over glorified forklift driver and computer drawer in the entertainment industry. we make the same money.

classic America
  • 2 0
 @mariomtblt: Nah. Ripmo. Totally maxed out. Looked at the SB130 pretty hard but didn't want to associate with the stereotype and my riding style was not aggressive enough.
  • 3 0
 @gnralized: I was an engineer with no debt. Now md with $310k debt. Was $420k. Much happier now. Definitely 1st world problems but this is food for thought.
  • 1 0
 @gnralized: If you specialize, like my cousin in Urology or my uncle who is a radiologist, or my (former) riding buddy who is also a radiologist, then $700k isn't out of the ordinary.
  • 1 0
 @hamncheez: Ok, the average salary for a radiologist is also $400k+. I think $700k is high and at that point it may not be worth the time, but everyone I know that went to med school had closer to $300-400k in debt. Certainly seems worth it at that debt level, but IDK.
  • 1 1
 @gnarlysipes: Ok...I looked it up just now. According to ZipRecruiter the average annual income for a "medical doctor" in the United States is $224,190 (201Cool . They could put $100k a year toward medical school debt (thus paying it off in 4-7 years based on the estimates in this thread) and still have more than double the country's median income ($43,206 in 2019). Granted, as I understand it they typically have to purchase their own malpractice insurance which I'm certain does not come cheap, but it's pretty hard to argue that doctors, lawyers, and dentists don't have considerably more discretionary income than the average individual.
  • 1 0
 @ecologist: thank you for stating the obvious, that a lot of people seem to want to pretend is not the obvious
  • 79 20
 Can Pinkbike please bring Paul Aston back for Enve wheel reviews
  • 30 2
 He was one of my favorites. Enve jokes aside. I think he was one of the few reviewers who's bike reviews actually seemed to have some variation. I actually think he treated each bike differently and didn't get too caught up on the geometry and instead talked about the performance/ride. Plus he was taller/bigger which is a different perspective from a lighter rider.
  • 13 0
 @foggnm: His most recent article for NSMB about his current ride is really interesting - nsmb.com/articles/paul-astons-210mm-do-everything-nicolai-g1
  • 8 0
 paul aston shreds, always thought his reviews were mint too.
  • 17 0
 @islandforlife: nsmb and vital, for smaller sites than pinkbike, both have done more meaningful reviews to me for a lot longer. But the pinkbike comments will always be more fun.
  • 2 0
 @adrennan:
Agreed.
Pinkbike has by far the best comment section.
  • 5 0
 @adrennan: Oh ya, NSMB articles and reviews are just on another level compared with pinkbike... pinkbike is great as just a constant source of MTB news, it's like the Buzzfeed of mountain biking. NSMB is more like the New York Times of mountain biking... I go there for thoughtful, well written, well researched, honest and very in-depth reviews.

Comparing comment sections is funny... pinkbike = entertainment, NSMB = knowledgeable, useful, and thoughtful feedback.
  • 1 1
 @islandforlife: you don't know what you're talking aboit
  • 2 0
 @jaame: and thanks for proving my point, haha, very entertaining!
  • 37 1
 IMO wheels like this make aluminum seem like the better choice. Compliance is up (like aluminum), but weight isn't going down, and they're still big $. What's the point exactly?
  • 12 3
 One example: Stan's flow cb7 wheelset is significantly cheaper and is way lighter at 1760g.
  • 14 4
 @Mngnt: carbon isnt only about weight, it's about ride quality and strength. No way a 1760gr can be close to strength of a 1900gr carbon. If you had cushcore to those stans you adding 550gr to your wheelset and over 300$cdn
  • 3 1
 Agree, My current Stans Flow with DT350 hubs weighs 1900 grams (32 spokes).
  • 3 2
 @ybsurf: people say that the PI-Rope is as good (If Not better) than carbon wheels.

They are cheaper and way lighter.
  • 1 4
 @NotNamed: dont know much about those but the one I saw are for xc racing with a 25mm inner width which is useless for anything more than xc/ light trail riding.
  • 9 2
 @ybsurf: Stronger doesn't mean better if the weaker option is strong enough. You must ride 35mm bars and superboost wheels?

Are you talking about the same "ride quality" that was celebrated when carbon gained popularity, that has now become "too stiff"? These are subjective terms that are seriously impacted by confirmation bias... Not to mention that most riders would probably have trouble detecting the differences in the first place (myself included).

I ride carbon wheels, and I bought them primarily because I'd read reviews and assumed they must be better, not because I needed the strength (my previous OG Flows were fine and I weigh 235lbs), or perceived a ride quality difference. Maybe I'm unique... But maybe not.
  • 4 7
 m.alibaba.com/amp/product/60718957610.html
I totally agree. TBH I dont even understand why people buy name brand aluminum rims/wheels when these could be had for next to nothing. Aluminum is all the same so spend more on a shiny decal.
  • 2 3
 @Mngnt:
Those wheels are precisely strong enough for a 105lb female xc rider.
Lol
  • 1 2
 @ybsurf: that makes nonsense. Weight is the whole wheel. I have custom sc reserve wheels built that weight 1680grams. They are as strong as anything out there. Using better spokes and nipples can bring down the weight alot.
  • 2 1
 @Mngnt: I went through a lot of alloy wheelset and have yet to break a we are one or a reynolds so I guess it works for me.
  • 5 0
 @ybsurf:

Pretty sure Sam Hill won the EWS on a 25mm rear wheel (28mm front): Mavic Deemax Pro’s.
  • 2 1
 @Saidrick: sure Sam Hill is like most of us right? Whatever works for him will surely works for us right? Let's all ride what is riding Wink
  • 5 0
 @Saidrick: I think Bruni did it too in DH on DT 471s
  • 6 1
 @ybsurf: yeah lets ride what the marketing guys tell us instead...
  • 4 1
 Let's all ride what the pros use because surely they use the same components all season long,and definitly they ride just as fast and smooth as we all do.
  • 3 0
 @ybsurf: same. i broke the Stans that came with my sentinel almost imeadatly. my we are one Union wheel set has been unshakable. will be getting another from them
  • 2 0
 @dennis72: Flows dent and crack at the spoke holes really easy
  • 22 6
 Looks to me like the We Are One on Hydra hubs take the cake, in the comparison table. +$40 for the Hydra upgrade seems like a sensible choice to me, on top of We Are One's pretty great track record.
  • 14 3
 I thought the Rovals actually took the cake. Reliable DT hub and $450 cheaper and 60g lighter than the WAO...My buddies and I are either on Reynolds or e13 carbon wheels. Both have lifetime warranty and have been super nice/problem free for well over a year and we paid under $1200 per wheelset. Don't see a reason to go over $1300 ...
  • 17 7
 @Marky771: I see many more cracked Rovals than I do We Are One, and I see quite a few wheels. Personally I just wouldn't buy Rovals. I also like a higher engagement hub, and generally I'm not jazzed about DT wanting customers to spend +$200 to get 54t. DT hubs coming stock with 18T in this day and age is almost shameful.

Obviously I am only commenting on the wheels from the chart, but if you want to look at the $1200-1300 range, we can also pull in We Are One wheels with 1/1 hubs, as they would fall into that range and are also a pretty fantastic option.
  • 6 0
 @privateer-wheels: IIRC some of the carbon Rovals come with the 54T rachet upgrade out of the box?
  • 1 6
flag mollow (Sep 29, 2020 at 8:56) (Below Threshold)
 @Apoxual: "some" means their entry level (which is what we're talking about) don't. So you do have to pay the extra. Try to pay attention here mate.
  • 4 1
 @Apoxual: Well that strengthens the case marginally. Personally I would still take the I9 1/1 with 90 poe.
  • 1 2
 @Marky771: 10 degree engagement? I'll take the Bontragers for $1300 please Alex.....
  • 1 0
 Or save $200 vs the Enve's for the same 1/1 hubs.
  • 3 0
 @Marky771: hubs quality is a big think too, not just weight
  • 4 0
 @privateer-wheels: I'm a bit surprised they included the $1300 Roval wheels when there's a $1600 pricepoint comparison in the Traverse SL wheels, which comes with the 54t and a lighter weight. Seems to be a better 1:1 between the two.
  • 3 0
 @fontarin: it's an odd table. Probably just wheels they have tested and can comment on?

NOBL also have some pretty compelling wheels at these price points.

Fortunately there are many options.
  • 6 1
 @privateer-wheels: Just to be devils' advocate here. There are probably 10-15 Roval wheelsets for every WAO wheelset, likely more. They are spec'ed on many of complete Specialized bikes so its no wonder you will see more.
  • 1 4
 @bobthestapler: no doubt you are on to something there, for sure. That said, We Are One has pretty good penetration up here, and I see quite a few of them.
  • 3 1
 Digging my We Are Ones, taking all that a ‘20 Norco Sight can dish out and not as harsh as a comparable Reserve
  • 17 6
 Okay, so I fully expect to be downvoted to 2006, but:

I like hubs with really slow engagement. I just bought some with 17 degrees (21 points) for my DH bike.

I’m not doing trials on it. And I’m not racing so I’m rarely doing burst sprints. So why the hell do I want quick engagement?

What I want is less pedal kickback and rear suspension that works, which means huns with less pawls and teeth.

(Throws hand into air ready to be stoned to oblivion by downvotes...)
  • 5 2
 @Altron5000: I don't think that's reason for a doenvote, though someone seems to think so.

Those are your preferences and that's totally valid. And they are good points, especially for a Downhill rig.
  • 6 3
 @privateer-wheels: I think the reason for a down vote is spending half the comment talking about being downvoted
  • 1 2
 @privateer-wheels: also with wao you are supporting North American manufacturing and better work/life conditions
  • 1 0
 @Marky771:

I don't see a reason to go beyond 700-800 USD, when a pair of Flows with (the best spokes in business)Sapim CX-Rays and the beautifuly light and enduro-resistant Tune hub are below 1700 grams and they keep spinning..like forever. Just put a DD or a DH casting and just ride the damn things(without the need of a cush core). Why spend more when you could spend less?
  • 1 0
 Also the pedal kickback generated by higher engagement is still up for debate.
  • 3 3
 @adrennan: I agree. I am a big supporter of domestic production and north american manufacturers.
  • 2 1
 @Altron5000: less POI = less drag. Don’t know about the hubs you’ve got but on DT Swiss the 18tooth is less draggy than the higher tooth count.
  • 5 1
 @MonsterTruck: not always true. Project 321 has 216 poe, and Onyx is virtually instant, and both have lower drag than DT Swiss 18T
  • 3 0
 @privateer-wheels: also hydras have low drag and an insane amount of poe
  • 1 0
 @eugenux:
That stans isn't strong enough for large aggressive riders.
Dt ex511 is stronger by um alot.....
And I don't think I like 1.5mm spokes out back
Would rather cx sprint, dr aerocomp
  • 1 0
 @Altron5000:
If you want less pk buy a frame with less pk.
  • 1 0
 @englertracing:
I'm 190 lbs so, not that light. I'm not charging uber hard but that does not mean I don't charge at all. The only time I broke some spokes in the back was when I trashed the bike onto some rocks.
Otherwise, the cx-ray are 'woodcutters'. On my last purchased set of wheels, I didn't want to pay extra 200 for 60 grams and I decided to use D-light. The wheels seem more compliant but I do preffer the stiffer feel of the cx-ray(or maybe it is just in my head and they feel the same).
  • 2 0
 @privateer-wheels: user name checks out
  • 2 0
 @ybsurf: yeah, they are sensible in terms of drag, but not quite the same level of low drag as the other two
  • 2 0
 @privateer-wheels: POI on Onyx is either zero or infinity. Not really apples to apples for other hubs. I’ve got a set of Onyx. They’re amazing.

Also hard to compare one brand vs another. I’m quite sure though that if you had the same hub with fewer POI it would have less drag. It takes energy to make all those clicky sounds. That’s not free. But certainly top-shelf hubs will (should) have less drag at any POI vs cheaper hubs
  • 1 0
 @MonsterTruck: not apples to apples? Well, in the simplest of terms, it is. It's a hub, it engages fast, and has pretty much the lowest drag of any hub. Yeah, when you break it open its completely different, but it serves the same purpose. If you want high engagement and low drag, they are top of the pile.

You might say P321 are oranges too, b cause they are magnetically sprung. But all in all, they engage fast with low drag.

Most people don't care how they do it. What matters is they do.
  • 13 0
 @pinkbike Would love to see a comparison of the Zipp vs the Crank Brothers Synthesis Enduro. Two wheels that market themselves as being designed for compliance but a different approach to achieve it. I’ve not ridden the Zipp but it seems like they would be near the best or the best if they made a rear specific that was slightly stiffer. Thoughts?
  • 12 0
 My buddy rode the Zipps and thought the rear felt like a wet noodle...I just don't get the carbon wheel compliance thing. I like my carbon wheels to be stiff but guess that's just me...
  • 6 0
 I purchased just the front Zip and have mated it to the CB Synthesis and SC Reserve rear and I found that either of those is a great match. Right now I'm using the Zip on the Front and DT Swiss XM481 in the rear (Super Boost) and so far so good.
  • 2 1
 @zarban: isn't the CB front a single wall just like the Zipp?
  • 3 0
 @hamncheez: I thought CB's were double wall.
  • 3 0
 @zarban: thanks for the feedback. I'm building a bike right now and the Zipp front + CB Synthesis rear is the combo I've been considering.
  • 3 0
 @hamncheez: I'm pretty sure they are double wall. The front CB it's supposed to be a little more compliant. It's a little wider, they use less spokes and a lighter tension than the rear CB.
  • 6 4
 I'll make he obligatory comment about the only durable product CB makes being their multitool.
  • 2 0
 @kdiff: I am now using the full CB on one bike and that DT Swiss with the zip on another. I can tell you that having that Zip on the front is phenomenal. If I could swing it I would buy another CB rear for that bike and switch out the DT Swiss but it's a pretty good setup for now. If you do go the route you mentioned I think you would be very impressed.
  • 2 0
 @garrettstories: you are right- the front and rear are both double wall, but super low profile to be close to single wall.
  • 8 0
 I can't say anything about the CB wheels, haven't ridden them.
I do have the Zipp front and rear, and can say they are distinctly more compliant than anything else I've ridden, carbon or aluminum. It's hard to describe, but they feel like an extension of your suspension system much the same way a good bar and cushcore are. They get better traction on rough or rooty off camber sections, and don't deflect or jar nearly as much as other wheels on higher speed rock gardens. I have noticed some rear end flex that's more than I would expect on bike park berms, but it doesn't affect my lines or manifest ever in trails. They're also heavier than my WeAreOne wheels, so I'll ride the Zipps in steep terrain and WR1 on pedally rolling terrain. Some of the weight is offset by not needing to have Cushcore in the Zipps, whereas I definitely need Cush in the WR1. Overall I get better bike handling and way less hand and body fatigue when riding the Zipps in big terrain.
If the CB ride anything like the Zipps they're winners! For riding North Shore, S2S / Whistler the Zipps are tops but YMMV depending on the terrain you ride.
  • 2 0
 @OnTheShore: Very helpful & informative feedback, thank you!!
  • 2 3
 Given the chance the bearings in those Crank Bros. wheels will kill you and your entire family.
  • 3 0
 @muscogeemasher: Have you tested the wheels yourself? Well, I have for the last 2 years with no inserts... Ride pretty much steep tech and fast from proper Downieville shuttles to tracks that WC DH racers use to test. No issues with durability. If you're not coming with true facts and experience with the product in discussion refrain from the poo poo of the mouth. Comments like this are useless
Be well
  • 4 0
 I dunno why Pinkbike didn't list the Newmen Advanced SL 30s here. Cheaper , durable as freek and lighter then any listed wheel set here by far. 1600g for 29" x30mm internal.
www.newmen-components.de/en/84/mtb/wheels/advanced-sl-a30

You talked about Zipp, I hope you get a proper wheelset. I bought two sets and didn't want to buy the third just to see massive quality issues. First wheelset was out of true by far, even worse then Wallmarkt bikes. Second one didn't had round rims, sandpaper marks all over , dimpels in the carbon, uneven sidewalls.
The pressure gauges didn't work at all for both.
I can't believe they get way with this quality.
Because of that I am now on Newmen, nothing else comes close spec wise.
I did destroyed carbon rims before In less then 5 minutes with enough pressure and the right line..
  • 1 0
 @Serpentras: that max system weight has me worried (125kg). Plus no USA distribution and no pricing that I can find.
  • 1 0
 @hamncheez: I wanted to build my own wheels with their 32h rims! Cube is selling Newmen in Canada so I called a cube dealer and I don't remember exactly but it was somewhere around 180$ a rim. A bit more expensive than Stan's or whatever, here in Canada, but not so much. I ended up having good deals on Nobl and liking their new wheelset but otherwise I would be on Newmen rims 100%!! (after reading the review on pinkbike...)
  • 1 0
 @mtbynot: if they are standing up to all that anger they must be durable. When choosing between products and one is made by a company that has the history of CB, that history is absolutely a valid consideration.
  • 1 0
 @hamncheez: well that sucks if you cant get their stuff because even the AL versions are excellent.
Most durable wheels I had so far. Mostly lighter then Carbon and really strong against stones when you are riding enduro.

System weight well that is for one wheel If I remember correctly and I am @79kg at the moment and 84 with gear.
  • 10 1
 I've been rocking the AM30 on my Norco Torrent HT. Best thing I could have done to take the bike to the next level! The extra compliance over traditional carbon rim suits the HT perfectly but still super responsive. Also way more durable than aluminum. It's a win-win.
  • 9 0
 I've been riding AM30s for a week now and they go arround and arround every time I hit the trail. Last set of wheels (bike) were garbage so seeing a huge improvement especially in high speed down hill turns. Old wheels (aluminum) felt like they were going to taco on me.
  • 19 14
 I don't get the point of carbon wheelsets and their crazy prices. My hand built DT XM481 rims with I9 Hydra hubs, with 32 spokes front and back come in at 1930 grams. Literally half the price for 47 grams of weight saving? And being hand built they are perfectly tensioned to my weight and riding style... Just bragging rights?
  • 13 17
flag stumphumper92 (Sep 29, 2020 at 8:17) (Below Threshold)
 Marketing my friend. If alu wheels were hyped up as much as carbon (and as expensive) then people would want them more. I'm not denying a upgrade in stiffness, but you're better off with a solid set of aluminum and don't have to worry about damaging carbon. And if you do damage alu, it's much cheaper to replace. Plus carbon wheels aren't really much lighter as it is.
  • 29 5
 Ride quality and durability. Ride quality is subjective, but most agree carbon is superior. With durability, I'd go through a set of wheels a season on aluminum, which adds up. My carbon wheels have lasted 2-3+ seasons with little to no truing/maintenance and then usually I've sold them and they're still solid.
  • 14 3
 @stumphumper92: you know you get free life time replacements if you damage these right?
  • 13 0
 @tgent: the DT E540s on my 2007 SX Trail lasted...13+ seasons, including dozens of days at bikeparks, couple dozen shuttle days and more than a handful at the skatepark and on the streets dropping to flat more than Id like to admit.

I know those are burly rims, but I just dont understand what people do to require new wheels every season.
  • 3 1
 Only way you could make those wheels better is by swapping for a DT hub Wink
  • 11 2
 @tgent: Takes a LOT of $90 aluminum DT rims to equate to anything from ENVE... and my EX511s have been holding on for 2 full seasons without issue.
  • 7 6
 @jaycubzz: Some of us ride low pressures in rough terrain. I was going through an aluminum rim every 3 months previously. My SC Reserves have been on my bike for almost 3 years now.
  • 6 0
 @jaycubzz: they can't pump their rear tyres 3 4 psi more for protection huh
  • 15 8
 @salespunk: You should probably choose some better lines if you're going through *good* aluminum rims every 3 months... Or running REALLY low tire pressure. I run 22front 24rear and haven't had an issue with cushcore in the back on some sketchy stuff.. I also weigh 195lbs.

Just saying you can't say you NEED $2000 wheels to ride rough stuff without breaking rims. Justify it to yourself however you please, but there are plenty of us riding hard on $600 DT Swiss or comparable wheelsets with plenty of success.
  • 5 2
 @tgent: and also most of carbon rims come with lifetime warranty no question asked. No aluminium have that.
  • 2 4
 @goldencycle: cushcore cost a lot and need to be replaced every now and then, that's adds up on the cost of your wheelset.
  • 3 1
 @goldencycle: and the fun part of biking is sometimes to go off lines and make mistake without wrecking your equipment.
  • 3 0
 @goldencycle: Where you ride also matter quite a bit.
If your local spot is mostly just smooth flowy trails and you are breaking rims then yeah, you should just get smoother.

Where I live you are constantly riding through rock gardens that if you mess up even a little with any pressure under 25psi you WILL destroy an alloy rim. I personally only ride alloy rims, but that's because I'm cheap/build my own wheels. I look at rims as the same way I look at tires, wearable parts. Makes riding much more fun as I am not worrying about damage being done to my rims all the time.
  • 10 1
 @butters1996: I live in Golden, Colorado. I'm used to really technical chunky terrain. I don't have the issues you do with rims blowing apart as soon as you choose a bad line. You'll likely dent one, but typically it can be bent back and the tire will seat just fine. Yeah, eventually you have to swap them out, but in my experience that is about once per year. My current rims have survived since May of 2019 and are holding up great.

I agree, rims are wearable parts, and if you can swap them yourself, they are the same price as a DH casing DHF. Not a big deal. At $100 a piece for rim replacement on a $600 wheelset, and replacing rims annually (for math's sake) and spokes/nipples every two years, you can run alloy wheels for 10 years before getting to the price of a high end carbon wheelset.

I'm just think people are making them out to be way less reliable than they are to justify their high end wheelset purchase.
  • 6 1
 @ybsurf: Cushcore costs a lot when you're talking about a $2000 wheelset? Come on, man.
  • 2 3
 @ybsurf: Which you can do, and you might dent your rim, just bend it back and you're good to go. If you blow a carbon rim (which does happen), have fun walking home.
  • 5 6
 @goldencycle: good job criticizing my lines without knowing anything about my riding. I never said I need $2000 wheels. I said I was going through a lot of aluminum wheels and carbon has been more durable. I ride Rimpact now and have ridden most of the other inserts out there. I used to ride CushCore, but had issues with them and they really need to be replaced at least annually and maybe every 6 months if you ride a lot.

I have ridden modern aluminum rims with Rimpact without issue, but I like the ride quality of carbon better. Stacking the weight of tire inserts on top of a burly aluminum rim doesn't make much sense to me.

Regarding me justifying it to myself, why would I need to do that? I have ridden most of the stuff out there and know what I like from personal experience. No justification needed.
  • 2 3
 @goldencycle: cushcore need to be replaced every second set of tire so every second years for most people at least so its 900$ over 6 years, it adds up to your "so call" cheap alloy wheelset.
  • 2 1
 @goldencycle: the alloy rims I bent while riding made me walk home as well until I could fix them at home and most of the time were too damaged to be used again.
  • 5 2
 @goldencycle: Add another $200+ per set to pay to have them rebuilt. $600 for the set upfront, $200 per year for the 2 rims, and $200 per year to have them built. Break even is about 3 years for a $1400 carbon wheelset.
  • 1 2
 @Superhands01: My chances of breaking an alu rim are much lower. And if you break carbon, you have to wait for the whole warranty process which = less time on your bike and more time waiting for repairs. Plus the price of a set of carbon hoops could get me like 20 underground rub and tugs
  • 5 1
 @goldencycle:

Many people won't be rebuilding the wheels themselves though. And once you add the cost of having a shop/wheel builder re-lace the new AL rim, the prices go up pretty dramatically.

If you get a Nobl TR37 rear wheel only, and compare it with the same hubs to a place like the wheel builder on coloradocyclist/fnaticbike, the price difference is about 1 rim replacement + build costs.

NOBL TR37 + i9 1/1 rear hub is $675
DT XM481 + i9 1/1 rear hub is $450 - $496 (with the same spokes/nipples, depending on the site/builder).

Looks like the price difference is ~$175-230. A single DT EX511/XM481 has an MSRP of $141. So, the price difference is pretty close to the price of a new XM 481 + the price of a wheel builder.

Its not nearly as clear cut of a value proposition if you look at it this way. And yes, I'm low key in the market for a new rear wheel (stock rim already has 3-4 dents in it, but is still holding air). So I've been looking pretty closely at both options Smile .
  • 2 1
 @ybsurf: Not sure where you get this info. I bought a used set of CushCores last year, and they have easily seen 4 or 5 sets of tires. And they still work as good as new. I don't see why you'd ever need to replace them - unless you really messed one up in a huge crash.
  • 1 0
 @tgent: not to mention more and more now doing the lifetime now questions asked warranty (thanks SC for starting the trend). Up until then I’d never pay that price for something so vulnerable but now you can ride without care to your wheels because of the warranty. Actually just had my reserve 30 warrantied and it wasn’t even the rims fault as the spokes kept popping and pinging against each other no matter proper tension or emery clothe between the cross to smooth out any pits (I woulda just been happy if they gave me new spokes and nipples). Was completely annoying but up to that point they were trouble free and stayed true for 3 years.
  • 1 0
 @dh-walters: if you bought them last year how did you already went throug that many tires??? Its not about the act of changing tires it's the mileage on them after many impact they start to break and suck on sealant and become heavy and lose their shape.
  • 2 0
 @ybsurf: Well, I ride a fair bit, and I've gone through 3 sets of tires in the year I've had them - and I know that the owner (friend of mine) before me had them at least a year as well. They have not distorted or broken apart in any way. And I'm quite certain they're not absorbing sealant. They're made out of closed cell foam - they don't absorb sealant.

It kinda sounds like you don't actually have any experience using Cush Cores(?)
  • 1 0
 @stumphumper92: Chances of breaking an alu rim are much lower? Not sure thats how it works to be honest. I would rather miss the odd riding session and free replacements then cough up everytime I pringle a rim for the rest of my life. As for the rub and tugs, I think you are investing a little too much there buddy..
  • 1 0
 @dh-walters: @ybsurf: Agreed, I don't know if he has any experience using cushcore. The cushcore on my rear wheel has been there for 3 years through at least 6 sets of tires (probably more than 6, honestly) and is doing just fine.. outside of being messy from the sealant, it looks like the day I bought it. The cushcore itself shouldn't be wearing from mileage on them... they don't touch the ground unless there is a big hit. There should be Air between the Cushcore and tire.

All that aside, I think cushcore use is less dependent on carbon vs alloy wheels and more on riding style. I bet the same riders would use it with either wheelset, because of the rim protecting nature, and the damping it adds.
  • 3 0
 @goldencycle: my CushCore setups show a ton of pinches through the material all around the edges on both left and right sides. That is the reason they need to be replaced on a regular basis. I definitely use them for the intended purpose of low pressures in rocky terrain.

Sounds like we have different terrain, setups and riding styles which is why different products exist. My experiences and asks from a product are different from others which is all good.
  • 3 0
 I ride a lot of the same terrain as @salespunk: and go through aluminum wheels every few months as well (though I am 145 pounds and run about 25 PSI). I am shopping for some of these carbons for myself as well (Zipp, WAO Strife, Reserve DH, etc) as I am hoping to break them less, and get the free replacements when it does happen. I just rotate rear wheels as they break and need to be rebuilt so I don't have downtime.

How I justify the cost is up to me. Do we all question the guy who buys fancy wheels for his $60,000 Ford Raptor the same way as we do people who put nice wheels on their $8000 MTB?
  • 1 0
 @ocnlogan: Yeah, you're right! Last winter I wanted a shop to build me a wheelset (I had about 25% off on Hope hubs, everything else full price) but it came to about 1100 canadian pesos! I wanted those Newmen solid aluminium rims so bad but I could have a brand new TR37 wheelset for like 150$ more (deals on those too)... I really really didn't want carbon wheels but lifetime warranty so well, I had to take a chance!

Not as stiff as the old Nobl so I really like them...still straight after a year too. If building the wheels myself, I would still like to have a nice solid aluminimum wheelset but custom build by a shop, it's just too expensive.
  • 8 3
 Hubs that need care during a (still relatively short) review period don't hold up well in my book at all. My 5 year old Pro II Evos still are in perfect condition after doing exactly nothing maintenance wise. The same goes for a 10 year old Pro II rear hub on a different bike.
That part alone is a reason for me to never buy complete wheels.
  • 7 0
 Same experience here. Another plus of Hope hubs is the fantastic adaptability to various axle and freewheel standards. Bonus: they ain't made under suspicious circumstances.
  • 2 0
 I have had zero issues with a set of 4+year old i9 Torch hubs. Other that typical cleaning/maintenance and one fresh set of bearings in that time frame, not a problem. That is true for two sets of those. I have had Hopes and I agree, they are some of the best bang for the buck and easy maintenance.
  • 1 0
 I bought a set of Hope 2E's used as a wheelset. While I don't know their history, I am under the impression that they served light duty (light duty wheels). While I like them, I have definitely done maintenance on them routinely and am about to replace all the bearings, after about a year of riding. Definitely not zero maintenance. I pull the hub occasionally just to clean and lube it up.

I am in southern California, so riding conditions are about ideal for them. I am keeping them as my backup wheelset.
  • 1 0
 @bman33: That's my experience on O.L.D. novatec hubs. Once changed the bearings, and that's it.
  • 5 0
 What would have made a great review of these wheels is to have built a similar set of wheels (same hubs,spokes) with ARC30 rims or XM481s (which would be more or less equivalent weights) and put similar miles on similar terrain and then talked about ride impressions and longevity. I think at this point, most people know carbon rims are a viable option. What they don't know is if 5 months of riding...carbon really is noticeable to a reviewer or preferable.
  • 5 0
 Wait, no coment on the Hunt carbon wheelset?

Hubs | 3° RapidEngage, boost (110/14Cool spacing hubs, large double sealed cartridge bearings. Rock Shox Torque Caps available.
Weight | 1810/1878g 27.5"/29"
$979 USD

I think these are better weight to money ratio than any other contender on that little chart.
  • 2 0
 I have them and the ride quality and general feel of them is absolutely brilliant. The only issue I'd mention is that I had a few spokes loosen on both wheels, three rides into owning them but that's easy enough to rectify.
  • 5 0
 I’ve been on ibis s35 rims to i9 hydra hubs for 15 months. They were a lot ($1799), but are only 1650 grams. That weight helps makes a capable 140/160 bike all the more pedalable. And the rims hold up extremely well. I bet I’d have needed to replace an alloy rim a few times over by now because of rock strikes. The durability and weight make the price justifiable. I’d have spent more in total by replacing alloy rims by now. Thanks for coming to my TED Talk.
  • 9 1
 Curious as to why 'Centerlock' only? i9 makes both 6-bolt and Centerlock
  • 9 3
 Looks like a solid option, but obligatory WeAreOne comment: Idk why anyone would buy these with the 1/1 hub over Unions with the Hydra hub...
  • 3 0
 Think it's safe to say the majority vote here is a really nice set of hand-built alloy wheels and I'd go along with that. I've had the same builder lace up hope hubs with cx Ray spokes, brass nipples and Dt swiss ex511 rims for my last two bikes (needed boost or I'm sure it'd just have been one build required). I'm pretty heavy and talentless so they need to suck up bad lines and landings and have done so without missing a beat. Can't see how carbon could be 40% better
  • 6 2
 a got M630 amazing wheels .beats Mavic, Dt Swiss , Santa Cruz easily .the wheels transformed the bike massively it jumps and accelerates way better + handling is awesome too .Try before you cirticise
  • 2 0
 May have been mentioned before but wouldn’t a properly set up suspension negate how stiff a wheel is? It seems like we’d all want stiff wheels, forks, and frames and let the shock and fork soak up the stiffness. I can see compliance being more important for hardtail riders of course.
  • 2 1
 I´ve never had and probably never will have a set of carbon wheels but I always thought one advantage of carbon wheels is that you don't have to true them from time to time because carobon doesn't bent ? So why are those moved-to-the-side-nipples an advantage ? The only thing I can think of is when you break a spoke but thats the same with any wheel isn't it ?
  • 5 0
 Offset, asymmetric number/width/tension of spokes all contribute to having a properly built wheel.

Just because carbon wants to stay straight/round and aluminum doesn’t, doesn’t mean that the spokes aren’t still under similar stress from riding and pedaling forces.
  • 2 0
 @parkourfan: Yeah I I've had to true mine before after spokes loosened. One of my favorite things about carbon rims is that you can build them up much more perfectly round and true compared to aluminum rims.
  • 3 0
 When "compliance" is the buzzword and the weight is so close, why pay more than good alloy wheels. The review should have addressed this.
  • 6 0
 Love my enve hoops!
  • 1 0
 Anyone have a decent wheel set suggestion under $800cad? Bought some take off OE Roval's that turned out to be 22xx grams instead of the aftermarkets listed 1900 grams. Too heavy for trail riding with relatively little flow. Not fussy super fussy about hub engagement, reliability is more important. Around 1900g?
  • 1 0
 XM481s laced to DT350s should be around that, depending in your spokes choice. In Europe you can get some for around 500€
  • 1 0
 @crashtor: we seem to have much higher prices over here. maybe i'll order some from bike 24. it's $470 canadian plus shipping for 350 hubs/xm481 rims. Would need to figure out spokes but that seems to be a good option. Thanks for the help
  • 1 0
 @JayUpNorth: I just checked, assuming you need a 29" wheelset they're closer to 2000g than 1900 with valves and tape. The Hubs should be reliable and extremely easy to service tho, and the rims fairly solid too
  • 1 0
 @crashtor: Maybe the answer is the xm1700 spline? Looks like a solid option for approx $800 plus shipping. A bit more than I want to spend but probably worth it.
  • 1 0
 @JayUpNorth: yes if you're ok with straight pull spokes and center centerlock rotors. Rims and hubs are the same I think
  • 1 0
 Question about offset rims. I understand you offset to the drive side on the rear to make up for the hub being wider on the drive side. It seems like on the front though you would want to offset to the non-drive side where the disc rotor is to make up for the offset in the other direction.

Is that what is actually done though?
  • 5 0
 Yes, exactly. Fronts are dished on the rotor side.
  • 3 0
 The price / weight comparison is great.
Industry 9 hubs , awesome.
We are one wheels Canadian made awesomeness with Industry 9 hubs. FTW.
  • 4 0
 Recommended for 110mm to 180mm travel bikes, and hardtails are ok. So their use is just "bikes"?
  • 5 1
 $40 more for hydra and we are one?
  • 4 0
 I have these and they’re not center lock only.
  • 5 2
 Centerlock is Rad - not sure why this isn't the industry standard, and why it's a negative here - One "Bolt" vs 6...
  • 1 0
 People hate on centrelock because 1. A lot of people lack a cassette tool to remove the rotor, and 2. It's less common because its generally on higher end hubs so it seems unnecessary.

(I wonder why its generally on higher end hubs....)
  • 2 1
 Fair point! Certainly one needs a tool (that many posting on Pinkbike should own, since it's affordable also works on a number of Shimano BBs) to install and remove CL rotors, but the security of the interface is massive. Being able to take a large single bolt to 40 Nm factory spec is some nice peace of mind. With CL there's also no risk of stripping an old, worn M5 bolt, as with the ISO rotors. There may well be licensing reasons why more rotor companies don't move to the Shimano mainstay standard, in turn affecting hub decisions by hub makers. If so, hopefully that could change in future.
  • 2 0
 Because that one " bolt" works loose and can't be tighten when out riding unless you bring a freaky tool kit with you.
i could loose probably 3 of those 6 bolts and not even notice until I cleaned the bike. Easy fix trail side.
Had 3 sets of wheels with centre lock never got the point do nothing better only worse. Plus some centre locks had that slight knocking play even when tight which bugged the hell out of me.
  • 2 1
 @markg1150: For sure - trailside fixes are easier with 6-bolt. Obviously no system is perfect. But it's been my experience that even though either system is certainly reliable CL is ultimately more so, assuming that the bolt has been properly prepped and accurately checked with a torque wrench. I also think having one bolt forces more regular checking (obviously riding with 3/6 bolts loose [or off altogether] isn't safe, and some people may do that - not you - lured by the false sense of security in seeing 6 bolts on there). What I will say is that it would be nice if Shimano/other CL rotor makers would consider in future including the new thru-axle applicable lockrings with every MTB hub and/or rotor sold...makes it a lot easier on the buyer to not have to source these items separately. The older ones are fine for QR hubs and rear axles but are too small for 15/20 mm front axles.
  • 2 0
 I've got CL on one bike, 6 bolt on the rest. I gently lean towards preferring the 6 bolt, just because it is easy to carry a T25 vs cassette tool.

That said, I have needed that exactly once so far, when I screwed up and forgot to torque my rotor bolts. I lost a couple in an XC race before I heard the rubbing of the others being loose. Total user error. I have HEARD of people needing to straighten a disc on the side of the trail by removing it, but I've been able to do it mounted in the past.

When I was assembling my new bike with CL, I thought to myself "Well shit, that was easy".
  • 2 1
 @JSTootell: That's an interesting, experienced perspective. I've also found it much easier to straighten discs in a jam on the bike (and often back in the shop as well), because of the extra leverage of having the rotor in a fixed point and obviously the natural "guide" provided by the pads. At least no one in this friendly debate is contesting the value of disc brakes altogether in MTB lol!
  • 1 0
 lol at all the people still falling over backwards for high/instant engagement freehub bodies. Guess what? These hubs are more than likely affecting your suspension performance.

DT 18t ratchet all the way baby.
  • 2 0
 Ibis s28 with Sapim Race and DT 240s boost has been running great for me. 32 spokes and lighter than these 28 spoke options from Enve.
  • 8 5
 Logo is not big enough. How will people know I have ENVE rims?
  • 5 4
 $1600 for just 1/1 hubs is ludicrous, same price gets you Nobl or We Are One with top tier hubs and better warranty without the arrogance
  • 7 1
 Price and “arrogance” aside, enves warranty - as written - is the best on the market bar none.
  • 6 5
 @parkourfan: Have seen so many denied warranty on shit that should have been covered, both in person and online. Santa Cruz and WAO shit all over Enve in the warranty department.

What does the verbiage matter if they deny it anyway? The only thing Enve is best at is returning brand new product that never should have been sent out in the first place.
  • 3 4
 @parkourfan: best warranty? We are one have a lifetime warranty no question ask what's better than that and they are cheaper.
  • 9 0
 @ybsurf: Love how every time I mention this, nobody actually takes the two seconds to look it up themselves. WAO offers lifetime replacements from riding damage. Enve offers that, as well as ANY other damage, lifetime. Roll it over with your car? Dog eats it? Acetone spills on it? New rim. Weirdly enough, they offer a relatively short (5yr) warranty against defects along with the lifetime incident protection, but normally "manufacturing defects" pop up quite quickly - or are denied to be defects later on down the road, since the product held up for a long enough period of time.

@muscogeemasher Reserves are up to Santa Cruz's discretion, on the basis of whether they think it was "defective." AKA, it's totally up to them. However, I haven't heard of problems with people getting a replacement set. While they've historically been great about replacing frames and rims, they don't really have to do anything for you, based on the warranty.

A quick rundown from what I can remember offhand - WAO offers replacements from ride damage, lifetime. Giant, Bontrager/trek, Specialized, all offer lifetime warranties against defects, with an additional 2-year 'anything goes' replacement policy, which they can pull at their own discretion.

@sherbet I do remember your abject hatred of enve from past comments we've had, which certainly isn't completely unfounded, from what I've heard on here. Oddly enough, in the real world - both for race series and normal riders - I rarely heard complaints.
Their incident protection is relatively new (around a year or so IIRC), but before that, I personally never saw them refuse any replacement, for any reason. I've even seen them "warranty" OG rim brake wheels for wear and tear, as well as give out free replacement for wheels broken in races as well. I think it makes sense to give them another chance now that they've stepped up in the warranty department (and put the nipples on the outside), unless you've had a pile of un-warrantied enve product bought within the last year. Things could be different for you up there, but domestically I had no issues before they rolled out the incident coverage.
  • 3 6
 @parkourfan: I've seen more brand new Enve rims being returned due to epoxy gaps and bare carbon than I've seen laced up. No thank you.
  • 3 0
 I9 hubs too loud?? Nah that’s silly talk.
  • 1 0
 I9 hydras laced to stans ex for 800.00 at cyclewheelusa. Compliant to hub awesomeness, round bulletproof hoops, and wallet. Handmade by a guy who builds wheels for decades.
  • 2 0
 The comparison chart is not in Envy's favor
  • 4 5
 I built my last pair of DT Fr560's with Hope Pro4 front/Onyx rear with wheelsmith spokes/nips for under $800. Will outlast any carbon rim under the harshest of riders. Why ppl spend so much on plastic wheel?
  • 1 0
 Don't the rear onyx hubs cost $500.And the Hope front had to be $100. So how did you build a wheelset for $600?
  • 2 0
 Sorry i meant $800?
  • 1 0
 @rideonjon: Onyx rear is $395 and Hope Pro4 front is $90 (universal has a wonderful discount program). Rims were $89/each from jpracingbike1 but they've since raised prices. Spokes are $1/ea and nips are negligible. Under $800 and that was back in May 2020. Try harder.
  • 1 0
 @LOTCP: Onyx rear is $460 directly from their website,maybe try harder next time!
  • 1 0
 @rideonjon: who f*cking pays retail???
  • 1 0
 @LOTCP: TRIGGERED!
  • 2 0
 THESE ARE NOT CENTERLOCK ONLY
  • 8 7
 Only centerlock?! That’s wack
  • 2 1
 They are not only centerlock I do not know what he is talking about. You can clearly get either 6B or Centerlock on Enve's website.
  • 2 4
 I know people praise some carbon wheels and their "ride feel" but I can't justify buying a carbon wheelset that's heavier, way more expensive, and with inferior hubs than something like i9 Enduro 305 Hydras.
  • 5 3
 Wat. i9 Enduro 305, which are fantastic aluminum wheels BTW are $1,355. These are $1,600, or better yet WeAreOne Unions on the table above are $1,640 also with Hydra hubs. When you're spending over a grand on wheels the price difference of about $250 isn't much.
  • 2 0
 @tgent: Dang I didn't realize they got more expensive. I remember buying a set a year ago for $1k but it also may have been discounted. The 29ers are 1850 grams per set and if I'm going carbon I want to save some weight. Ibis S35 carbon wheels with Hydra hubs are 1650 grams and very competitively priced with the other wheels mentioned in this article. That's probably what I'd go with.
  • 1 1
 @tgent: exactly
  • 1 1
 @tgent: and lifetime warranty no question ask
  • 1 0
 @WalrusRider: +1 for the Ibis x i9 Hydra combo. Been nothing but awesome for me so far.
  • 1 0
 LMFAO So bontrager makes the cheapest and lightest...
  • 3 0
 Yeah, and the breakiest ???? Nice that they have warranty but who wants to deal with broken rims on the monthly...
  • 2 3
 We Are One............. We are one with our money We are one with the great warranty We are one with value to me for the value there is no other choice
  • 1 0
 @mikekazimer really appreciate this review. Thank you!
  • 1 0
 how are theses better than sub 1k brands like roost?
  • 1 0
 Fair bit heavier than my 8 year old aluminium Easton Havens. Great.
  • 1 0
 Dude I swear those are the best budget wheels ever created. Picked up a set back in 2015 for like $450 when price point was shutting down. Thousands of miles on them on everything New England has to offer. Dented them multiple times and just bent the rim back with a pair of pliers.
  • 1 0
 they really need to get the price down! disgusting!
  • 1 1
 So the more expensive the wheel the heavier it is... OK got it!
  • 1 1
 Finally, Enve make a wheel for dental assistants.
  • 1 1
 I got as far as "28 hole" and stopped. Review over
  • 4 6
 Twice as expensive as an alloy DT Swiss EX1700 set, and heavier. What a deal!
  • 2 1
 they are not lighter- are yours 27.5?
  • 8 4
 What if I told you the benefits of carbon were more than just weight savings?
  • 1 0
 @fullendurbro: what if i told you the money could be spent elsewhere?
  • 1 1
 @fullendurbro: and get more benefits from that same money...
  • 1 0
 Can anyone show me these sub-1900 gram EX1700 29er?
  • 2 0
 I stand corrected: The DT wheelset is in fact 87g heavier.
  • 2 1
 @fullendurbro: oh shit sorry, i just realized that your username is fullendurbro, clearly you know better
  • 2 1
 @Bikerdude137: I know better because I'm a grown adult, not an angry 13 year old with a chip on his shoulder.
  • 2 0
 @fullendurbro:
Yes we all know: "carbon is stiffer, the carbon is lighter, the carbon is stronger" blah blah blah,
Sure those things are all true, but i'd much rather spend 2k on nicer brakes, grips, tires, pedals, dropper, tire inserts, stem, and handlebars
All of these things can be bought for the same price of ONE carbon wheelset, or 2 normal enve rims
I'm not saying carbon wheels are pointless, i literally have them on my bike (that i bought used) but they aren't an upgrade that's worthwhile for 90% of people.
The age card doesn't work when you're wrong...
  • 2 1
 @Bikerdude137: Hey buddy, you're not wrong -- carbon wheels are not a good choice if you're on a budget. But many adults have a job that provides them with reliable money. If you're smart, you pick a job that gets you a lot of money. So many of us have all of the nice stuff + carbon wheels. On multiple bikes.

The budget argument doesn't work in this category because it's not a budget item. It's like asking why you should by a Porsche 911 when you could get 3 Kia Sorentos for the same price.

Now go do your homework so you can get a high paying job some day.
  • 1 0
 @fullendurbro: So according to you, you're smart enough to have thousands of dollars to spare on multiple bikes but you don't understand context?
Your statement would be true... but the original comment says they're more expensive, so the not budget argument would make sense, but in this context what you're saying is that they are a worthwhile upgrade, they aren't
  • 3 5
 DTSwiss XMC1200 over these any day.
  • 1 0
 Aren't XMC1200 close to $3k? Not really a good comparison
  • 1 0
 @zarban: not in the UK. They can be had for similar price to these Enve
  • 1 3
 That's a really short review. Almost like.... it collapsed on itself
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