Review: The Geometron G1 is Designed to Be Future-Proof & Adapatable

Jun 14, 2021
by Seb Stott  



Geometron is a partnership between German frame builders, Nicolai, and Chris Porter - a motorcycle journalist turned World Cup tech turned suspension tuner, long-bike pioneer and opinion-haver. Back in the day he made waves arguing that 29ers were pointless (I remember having a two-hour argument with Chris about that topic in 2015) and that we were all riding bikes that were too small, too steep and too slack in the seat angle. The Geometron started as a way of getting a bike Chris actually wanted to ride, and perhaps proving a point at the same time. At first it raised many a skeptical eyebrow. But now the geometry they pioneered is largely accepted, and even replicated, by the wider industry, and few would argue for a return to shorter, steeper bikes with slacker seat tubes.
Geometron G1 Details

• Wheel size: 27.5", Mullet or 29"
• Travel: 160-200mm front, 162 or 175mm rear
• 62.5-degree head angle
• 79-degree effective seat angle
• 450mm chainstay
• 1,345mm wheelbase
• Weight: 37.7 lb / 17.1 kg (XL)
• Sizes: Long, Longer, Longest, Extra Longest (tested), XX Longest
• Price: £5,950 (For off-the-shelf XT build)
geometronbikes.co.uk


As for the 29er part? Well, everyone's wrong about something.

After Chris's company, Mojo Suspension, parted ways with Fox, Chris setup Mojo Rising with six staff, focusing on Geometron bikes and distributing Formula and EXT suspension.

Until recently there were three options in the Geometron line: the G13, G15 and G16. These have 130mm, 145mm and 155mm of travel, respectively (although the G16 can be run with 175mm travel with a longer shock). The G1 was developed in 2019, and while the name of the other bikes indicates the travel, the "1" in G1 refers to the idea that it's one bike to do everything. According to Chris, Mojo Rising staff were riding the longer travel G16 for everything including long cross-country rides, and you don't need less travel for less technical terrain, just faster-rolling tires.

The G1's "modular" design means it can provide 162mm or 175mm of rear travel with the same shock; accommodate forks from 160-200mm, plus any wheel size configuration you like and a choice of three chainstay length options. With all this adjustability it's designed to be future-proof and adaptable enough for everything - just as long as your idea of everything doesn't involve low weight.

So sure are they that the G1 is all you need, Nicolai no longer make the G13, G15 or G16. "We can make it fit and work for more people in more types of situations," Chris tells me "The G1 is just better!"

Equally important as geometry is the suspension. Mojo Rising worked with Nicolai to fine-tune the kinematics - which have been refined, not revolutionized - since the original Geometron. They've also worked with EXT to provide highly-customized versions of the EXT Storia V3 shock. But perhaps the biggest USP they have for those in the UK is the setup/demo rides and service they offer.

Mojo Riding staff can set up the bike with you from their HQ near Monmouth before heading out for a test loop, during which you can try out different spring rates and suspension settings, geometry configurations, components and even different frame sizes. Can you imagine that from a mainstream brand? Having done this myself with the G1, the experience they have from setting up hundreds of Geometrons for a range of customers, plus the trail-side perspective on your riding, can be immensely valuable even for someone who's confident and experienced setting up bikes for themselves.



bigquotes...it's when trucking over rough terrain where the G1 is in its element. The rougher, the more hectic, the better. Seb Stott





Construction and Features


The G1's frame is all about options. The interchangeable seat stay mutator chips act like conventional flip chips in that they alter the ride height and frame angles simultaneously, except by swapping out chips of different lengths they can theoretically offer eight ride height options. These can be used to compensate for a 27.5" or 29" rear wheel without affecting the geometry, or can be used to change the BB height and frame angles interdependently of wheel size.

The chainstay mutator offers three options for the chainstay length (446mm, 453mm or 458mm). The stock configuration changes by frame size, but there's nothing to stop you running any chainstay length on any frame. The chainstay mutators also affect the BB drop slightly, so it's recommended to change the seat stay and chainstay mutators together if you want to preserve the BB height. This can get pretty complicated, but this spreadsheet on Geometron's website shows all the combinations and their effects.

The shock link has two eyelet positions, offering 162mm or 175mm of travel. The longer travel setting is also slightly more progressive, so the Mojo Rising staff generally recommend the 175mm setting with more sag and similar mid-end stroke support. As if that weren't enough, the G1 is available with an external lower headset cup which allows it to run a 27.5" front wheel with the same geometry. So 27.5", mullet and full 29" setups can be accommodated without affecting the geometry (unless you want to). In theory, you could even run a 27.5" front wheel with a 29" rear, though that's not recommended.

16.04.21. Pinkbike Forest of Dean Rider Seb Stott. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
The black anodized block between the rocker link and seatstay is the seatstay mutator chip, which affects the BB height.
16.04.21. Pinkbike Forest of Dean Rider Seb Stott. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
The chainstay mutator sits between the chainstay and Horst-Link pivot. Three options provide three chainstay lengths.

The shock is mounted on spherical bearings which allow the shock to move more freely with less side-loading, and so less friction, as the frame flexes. Cable routing is fully external (except for the dropper cable), with custom aluminum clasps to hold the cables in place. No zip-ties here.


16.04.21. Pinkbike Forest of Dean Rider Seb Stott. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
Spherical bearings allow the shock to twist interdependently of the frame to reduce binding and friction as the frame flexes.
16.04.21. Pinkbike Forest of Dean Rider Seb Stott. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
Thick flat scaled welds and external cable routing with industrial mounting hardware are Nicolai hallmarks.

The frame is constructed from 7020-T6 aluminum for its high tensile strength. The raw frame isn't afraid to show off its flat scaled welds, which are produced with a very slow welding speed and multiple passes, which Geometron claim reduces distortion and improves longevity and strength. Less visible are the rubber seals in the bearing preload caps, which are designed to prevent water ingress and improve the longevity of the pivot bearings.

The frame has an industrial, even overbuilt feel to it. The rear thru-axle has a hexagonal nut so it can be used with a spanner or a 6mm Allen key, the seat stay mutator chips are each held in place with two long steel bolts and the reinforcement around the head tube, shock mount and bottom bracket are seriously substantial. I didn't weigh the frame on its own, but aside from the fork the bike I tested has a reasonably light build so a lot of the 37.7 lb / 17.1 kg weight is in the frame.

16.04.21. Pinkbike Forest of Dean Rider Seb Stott. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
There is space for a water bottle in the Xl frame, so it should be possible to find a better solution than this!

One feature which is missing is a bottle cage, but on the XL there is space to fit one in front of the shock mount if you get creative. It's also worth noting that tire clearance is relatively tight. The bike is pictured with 2.6" Schwalbe Eddy Current rear tire on a 25mm rim (actual tire width was 64mm or 2.52"), which is a tight fit.



Geometry & Sizing

Because the G1's geometry is so adaptable the above table is really just a starting point. On my XL I measured the BB height at 335mm from the floor. The head angle was a little steeper than stock due to the short axle-to-crown length of the MORC 36 dual crown fork, measuring around 63-degrees depending on how the fork was setup. I stuck with the 453mm chanistay setting throughout testing, but swapped back and forth between 27.5" and 29" rear wheels using different seatstay mutators to maintain the same BB height.

At 190cm tall, I'm on the border between the "longest" (large) and "extra longest" (XL) frame size. "We usually set up both large and XL for a rider of your height to try out," Chris told me, "Or on a ‘distance sell' we would probably spend a bit of time on the phone checking measurements on the current bike and body measurements. Most people at that height are sizing up." Chris also added that clipped-in riders (like me) are more likely to size up as they typically ride more forward.

I've ridden XXL and a Large Geometrons in the past and to a large extent it's possible to adapt to all three. Though there were big time gaps between riding each one, I'd say the XXL was too much work for me when it comes time to manual and hop over trail obstacles. The Large felt big enough when I rode one a few years ago, though its numbers are comparable to a modern XL enduro bike and I'm not sure which suits me better now between the L and XL.

16.04.21. Pinkbike Forest of Dean Rider Seb Stott. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography

Suspension Design

The G1 uses a Horst-link arrangement, which delivers 33% progression from start to finish in the 175mm setting, and 30% at 162mm travel. That's on the more progressive side, which plays nicely with coil shocks. The leverage ratio drops off smoothly throughout the stroke, resulting in a consistent increase in wheel rate (the suspension stiffness measured at the wheel) throughout the travel.

The lower leverage curve is for the 162mm travel setting; the top one is for 175mm. Note the horizontal axis is the shock stroke, not wheel travel, which is why both curves end at the same point.

There's just over 100% anti-squat at sag which keeps the suspension from bobbing too much on climbs, though there's slightly more movement than some enduro bikes with higher levels of anti-squat, like the Privateer 161.

The custom-tuned EXT Storia V3 shock is set apart from the standard unit with its coil negative spring inside the damper in place of an elastomer top-out bumper. In the absence of the main spring, this pushes the shock into its travel a few millimetres. The preload on the main spring can then be balanced against this and so adjust the ride height without introducing any breakaway force like you'd get when using preload on a conventional shock. The negative spring also counteracts the spring force coming from the nitrogen charge behind the IFP, so there's zero breakaway force to overcome to get the shock moving from the start of the travel aside from friction. Chris recommends running the preload light enough that the shock sits into its travel under bike weight, but extends to the point where the main spring has no preload and goes loose when the bike is lifted off the ground and the weight of the rear wheel acts to extend the shock.

This means the "positive travel" measured from how the bike sits under its own weight will be less than fully extended, but the suspension has the ability to extend further when the rider pulls the bike up or the rebound overshoots. In my case, the bike was set to the 175mm travel setting, but about 10mm of travel is taken up just under bike weight. The 335mm bottom bracket height was measured under "bike sag".

The shock has a hydraulic bottom-out circuit, which progressively increases compression damping in the last 11mm of shock stroke (25mm of wheel travel) to resist bottom-out. This allows a small bottom-out bumper to be used. It also gets custom valving for the G1, with lighter low-mid speed rebound valving to allow faster recovery. Chris claims the negative spring allows the rebound to be set faster by resisting rebound before top-out is reached. The low-speed rebound is externally adjustable by hand, the low-speed compression requires an Allen key and the high-speed compression requires a spanner for adjustment. A climb switch closes off the low-speed compression to give a moderately-firm pedaling platform which easily opens up over larger bumps.




Specifications
Release Date 2020
Price $8431
Travel 162 or 175mm
Rear Shock EXT Storia V3 230 x 65mm G1 spec
Fork Mojo MORC 36 dual crown, 170mm travel, 44mm offset
Headset Hope integral ZS44 / ZS56 (Reset Racing EC56 lower cup for 27.5")
Cassette Shimano XT, 12s, 10-51t
Crankarms Hope EVO, 170mm arms, 32t
Chainguide Hope Slick Shorty
Bottom Bracket Shimano BB-MT800, threaded
Rear Derailleur Shimano XT, 12s
Chain Shimano XT- 12s
Shifter Pods Shimano XT, 12s
Handlebar Renthal Fatbar
Stem Direct mount
Grips ODI Elite Motion
Brakes Formula Cura 4, 200/180mm rotors
Wheelset 29" 27.5" or mixed
Hubs Hope Pro 4, Boost, J-bend
Spokes 32, bladed, J-bend
Rim DT Swiss EX 471, 25mm inner width
Tires Schwalbe MagicMary, 29x2.35", SG, SuperSoft (front)/Big Betty, 2.6", Soft, SuperTrail (rear)
Seat WTB Volt 142 Ti
Seatpost BikeYoke Revive, 180mm



16.04.21. Pinkbike Forest of Dean Rider Seb Stott. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
The compression damping requires tools for adjustment.

16.04.21. Pinkbike Forest of Dean Rider Seb Stott. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
The fork is based around standard Fox 36 lowers and RC2 damper, with custom stanchions, air spring and offset-adjustable crowns.

There's no such thing as a stock build with the G1. The suggested build kits listed on the website are there to stop customers being overwhelmed with choice, but customers are encouraged to order off-menu; for example, you can have a 170mm Formula Selva or EXT Era fork, Hope or Formula brakes or supply some of your own parts.

One thing on my test bike that might be hard to get hold of is the fork. The MORC 36 kit adapts a Fox 36 lower and damper with dual-crown upper tubes and offset-adjustable crowns (MORC stands for Mojo Offset Reduction Crown). They can be run with 41.5, 44 or 46.5mm offset, and are claimed to increase stiffness. The longer upper tubes also provide room for Mojo to go to town on a custom high-volume air spring. The lower compression ratios in both positive and negative chambers make for a very linear spring curve, with ample room to adjust the end-stroke progression with volume spacers. Separate valves for the positive and negative chambers allow the ride height and off the top suppleness to be fine-tuned via the difference in pressure between the positive and negative spring. The fork works best with the negative spring over-pressurized by at least 10psi, which causes the fork to suck down into its travel by about 20mm,leaving only around 150mm of usable travel to play with and a short axle-to-crown length.

One component choice which may stand out is the 2.6" Schwalbe Eddy Current rear tire. In order to compare 27.5" and 29" rear wheels I needed tires with identical specs in both sizes, and the Eddy Current was the only tire I could get hold of which fitted the bill. As it turned out, the true width was closer to 2.5", which worked fine on a 25mm rim.






Test Bike Setup

After trying out a few different spring rates I settled on 475lb/in on the shock, with the compression damping fairly open and the rebound towards closed (it's still pretty quick). With the fork, I started with 100psi in the positive and 110psi in the negative, but incrementally increased this to 120/130psi to get more support and hold it up higher. To compensate for the fork's short axle-to-crown length, I fitted a 25mm stack of spacers under the stem and a 40mm rise bar to bring the handlebars up to a comfy height of 111-112cm.

After I had arrived at this setup I went to Mojo rising for a setup ride to get the full customer experience. After watching me ride past a few times, they suggested increasing the fork pressures to 130/140psi, swapped the 475 for a 450 lb/in spring in the shock and reduced the preload slightly to stop the fork pushing through its travel in the turns and transfer more weight to the rear wheel mid-corner. They also sped up the rebound front and rear and increased HSC on the shock to stop it using too much travel on bigger hits.



Seb Stott
Location: Moumouthshire, UK
Age: 28
Height: 6'3" / 191cm
Inseam: 37" / 93cm
Weight: 187 lbs / 85 kg
Industry affiliations / sponsors: None
Instagram: Seb Stott On Bikes

This setup created a better balance when riding aggressively - over the front and pushing into corners. But the firmer fork made it more important to consciously weight the front wheel on flat terrain.

I spent a lot of time swapping between 27.5" and 29" rear wheels, using seatstay mutators to maintain the same geometry, to find out what difference the mullet makes (feature to come). As a result I didn't experiment with the adjustable offset (I kept it at 46.5mm), with the longer of two stem length options (32.5mm) and stuck with the 453mm chainstay.

Tire pressures were 22-24psi front, 26-27psi rear.

16.04.21. Pinkbike Forest of Dean Rider Seb Stott. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography

Climbing

How does a 17.1 kg bike with a dual-crown fork climb? Much better than you might think.

Let's start with the fork. I didn't find any climbs where I ride in South Wales where the steering limit of the fork made it impossible to get round. That said, if you live somewhere with tight Alpine switchbacks this may be a problem. And on technical climbs when the wheel slipped out I found myself running into steering lock when trying to regain balance on a couple of occasions. Turning around on a fire road isn't easy either. The 36 fork stanchions are closer together than purpose-built dual crown forks which, combined with the long wheelbase, means the turning circle is wide. But during normal riding this is rarely an issue.

As for the weight, it's maybe a kilogram heavier than an average XL enduro bike with similar tires and coil shock. For a bike and rider weighing 100Kg combined, that's 1% more weight to bring up the hills, so it'll take 1% more power or 1% time. I'm not trying to tell you the weight is a good thing, just that it's not as big a deal as some may think.

It really doesn't feel especially heavy once you get pedaling. What you can feel is the position is super comfortable, with the hips nicely over the bottom bracket when attacking steep climbs. And thanks to the long reach, the cockpit still feels nice and roomy, so my shoulders and arms were relaxed. There's enough anti-squat to keep the suspension from bobbing much when pedalling normally, but the suspension is very free to move when pedaling over bumps. It's not the snappiest when stamping on the pedals, but you can always flip the climb switch if you want a firmer feel. Leave it open and the G1 delivers loads of traction and composure when tackling rough climbs. The steep seat angle means you can remain seated to better manage traction on the steepest climbs around. So while you may get to the top a few seconds later than on a lighter bike, you'll likely get there without having to push.

To illustrate the point, I rode the same steep climb on a Focus Jam, a 150mm-travel trail bike, and the G1 on the same day. The Geometron made the climb much easier because I didn't have to waste energy hunching forward or getting out of the saddle to stop the front wheel lifting.

The slack head angle means there is some wheel flop when turning tight at slow speeds (where the steering creates a force away from straight ahead), but I never find this a problem.

16.04.21. Pinkbike Forest of Dean Rider Seb Stott. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography

Descending

I spent a lot of time riding the G1 as fast as I could through tight and fast turns to figure out the difference in handling between the full 29" and mullet setup. With either rear wheel, the G1 was remarkably agile in the turns if ridden aggressively. That wheel flop due to the slack head angle means the steering "wants" to tip into the turns, while the low bottom bracket helps it to lean in and out of the corners more quickly. After getting used to the bike I was able to really push on, hitting familiar alternating berms harder than I had before. When pushing into these short, sharp turns there was plenty of support to push against, but with the fast rebound tune the bike would almost jump from one turn to the next. It's not uncontrolled, but there's definitely a springy feel when pushing off short berms.

The long front-center means you can't be shy about getting your weight over the front, otherwise the front wheel is too lightly loaded and won't grip well. This makes the G1 hard to handle if you ride it timidly or hang off the back. But bend your elbows and get your weight forwards and it will reward you with lots of grip and stability, particularly in rough, rutted or steep turns. In an ideal world, you'd want a 50:50 weight distribution between the wheels, and the long front-center means you have to put more weight on your hands to achieve this. But with your weight halfway between the axles, there's more room in front of you with a longer bike, which means the bike pitches and "trips up" less when braking or hitting bumps, and the slack head angle and high trail figure mean the front never tries to tuck or jackknife. For me this makes it easier to "trust in the front," which means I stay tall and centered on the bike when things get steep and gnarly, resulting in better front-end grip than a shorter bike, where I'm more likely to hang off the back.

16.04.21. Pinkbike Forest of Dean Rider Seb Stott. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography

On the other hand, when I was having an off day, riding tight or timid, the XL G1 can be a handful. This is why some riders at my height might want to size down to a Large, and if I was considering buying a G1, I'd arrange to try both sizes on the same day.

While cornering takes some getting used to, it's when trucking over rough terrain where the G1 is in its element. The rougher, the more hectic, the better. Small bump sensitivity is superb, so the bike takes the sting out of all the small chatter and sticks the wheels to the floor. And when the rear wheel is unweighted, for example when braking or on the backside of bumps, the extra room to extend on rebound allows it to stay in contact with the ground better, which helps to maintain control.

While I've never back-to-back tested spherical bearings against normal bushings, when hammering through a pinball rock section I've ridden countless times, the bike as a whole works so well I could be persuaded they were doing their job. The extra weight of the frame no doubt helps a little in these situations too, as anyone who's ridden an e-bike will know.

The setup Chris suggested with the slightly softer 450lb/in spring and firmer HSC is all about traction and support, but less about comfort. Inevitably, when hitting square-edge hits it sometimes transmits a bit more feedback than you might get from typical digressive compression tunes with less high-speed compression. This seems like a small price to pay though. Despite the firmer high-speed damping and bottom-out circuit, I still I found the bottom of the travel a few times, but not harshly.

The MORC 36 fork wasn't quite as impressive. When setup with enough negative pressure to make it nice and soft off the top, it's only serving up around 150mm of travel. I did try using less pressure in the negative to get it to sit a bit higher, but this ruined the linear feel which is at odds with the rear end. After increasing pressures in both chambers and speeding up the rebound on Chris' recommendation, the fork provided good support and traction, but with the RC2 damper and firm mid-end travel feel it isn't exactly comfortable or forgiving for long descents, particularly when compared to the 170-180mm travel forks I'm used to. But, as with the bike as a whole, if you ride it hard it makes more sense. The fast rebound helps it deal with high frequency bumps without bogging down at all.

The low sagged BB height and long wheelbase make it pretty easy to sump out the chainring on steep rock steps, so a little more care is required on awkward terrain. Clipping pedals is easily done too, so the G1 prefers carving corners and carrying speed over squaring them off and snatching pedal strokes in between.

And while the attention to detail as far as suspension performance is second to none, it's not as refined in some other ways. Despite the coil negative spring, the lack of an elastomer top-out bumper means that, especially if you ride clipped-in, it tops-out with a clunk when hopping over big obstacles like tree stumps. And when rattling over rough terrain there is more chain noise than most modern bikes, even with the derailleur's clutch on.

16.04.21. Pinkbike Forest of Dean Rider Seb Stott. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
Geometron G1
Privateer 161

How does it compare?

I've spent a lot of time on the 161 over the past year, so most of the trails I rode on the G1 I've also ridden on the Privateer. Like the G1, it's a bike for people who aren't too fussed about weight but want new school geometry. My 161 with a Fox 38, alloy wheels and Schwalbe SuperGravity tires weighs 16.3 kg, so a little lighter than the G1. The 161 has an even steeper seat angle (80 degrees) and considerably more anti-squat, which makes it feel a bit more "sporty" when sprinting or mashing the pedals on the steepest climbs. As I said, the G1 is far from inefficient though, and 79-degrees is plenty steep enough, but if faced with a long climb I'd still prefer the Privateer.

The XL Privateer is only 15mm shorter in the front-center and has the same chainstay length, but it feels a bit more lively on the trail and demands a bit less proactivity from the rider. The longer stem (40mm) and slightly shorter front end mean I don't have to remind myself as often to keep plenty of weigh over the front when riding flatter trails. The flip side is the G1 has more of a feeling of steering from behind the front wheel with its shorter stem and slightly slacker head angle, which makes it feel that bit more unshakable when tackling big rocks or steep catch berms. Ultimately, this comparison shows how far other brands have come: the 161 has near-identical BB height, chainstay length and seat angle, while the wheelbase of the XL Privateer falls in between the Large and XL G1. As a result, the handling is not worlds apart.

The rear suspension on the G1 is a little more planted at the rear, although the Fox 38 offers plenty of stiffness and early-travel sensitivity without the steering lock and travel limitations of the MORC 36.

16.04.21. Pinkbike Forest of Dean Rider Seb Stott. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
Formula Cura 4 brakes
16.04.21. Pinkbike Forest of Dean Rider Seb Stott. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
DT Swiss EX471 rims

Technical Report


Formula Cura 4 brakes: After a bleed the Cura 4 brakes were impressively powerful, with a short free stroke and a sharp lever feel. I'm a big fan of the more punchy bite point over the more modulated feel of a Code, and the bite-point consistency was faultless. The only downside is that you couldn't squeeze a pensioner's payslip between the pads and disc, so setting them up without any scuffing is next to impossible.

DT Swiss EX471 rims: 25mm wide rims are still ride-able, even when running a 2.6" tire on the rear. But I had to add a psi or two to stop the tires squirming in turns, which I rarely find a problem with 30mm rims even at pressures where I'm occasionally hitting the rim on rocks.




Pros

+ Superb traction and composure in hectic terrain
+ All of the adjustability
+ One-to-one setup rides could add enormous value if you can get to Mojo Rising HQ

Cons

- Long geometry demands a proactive and assertive riding style
- Not for weight watchers
- Occasional top-out clunk and chain rattle
- No water bottle mount




Pinkbike's Take

bigquotesWhile the geometry of the G1 is still that bit more boundary pushing than the rest of the pack, and the suspension and composure is really impressive, what really gives Geometron a distinct advantage is the breadth of tuning options, combined with the setup expertise and support provided by Mojo Rising. If you can go for a demo/setup ride, their experience in fine-tuning these bikes can be really helpful even if you're well-versed in setting up bikes on your own. Setup is so important with any bike, so having that one-to-one help could be worth a lot. Seb Stott



249 Comments

  • 114 2
 37.7 lbs. apparently the future-proofed version of myself never skipped leg day.
  • 6 1
 I'm out of breath just reading the review
  • 4 6
 Skip a few beer days and you'll be able to skip a leg day.
  • 18 0
 Why would anyone skip beer days? @fartymarty:
  • 5 1
 @enduroNZ: so you can pedal your 40lb trail bike...
  • 5 0
 @fartymarty: You're asking a Kiwi to skip beer days. Most Kiwi's are 37% Speights.
  • 14 4
 A Bike that fits way more important than weight when it comes to pedalling it... Unless you're a world cup XC racer where every gram counts, really the weight argument is BS Owned one for about a year now... first bike that fits me properly, and I can pedal up more stuff than ever.
  • 1 0
 @iian: As an ex-pat Kiwi I guess it's fine.
  • 3 0
 @timdgoodwin: Agreed, I would rather pedal my 40lb Murmur which fits over my 32lb HT which has older geo up a hill. You don't have to fight to keep the front down with progressive geo.
  • 1 0
 @timdgoodwin: I double that!
  • 2 3
 When the summary is "Its like the Privateer, but heavier and pedals worse" my eyebrows go up.
  • 84 6
 "Long geometry demands a proactive and assertive riding style"
--
I guess saying, "like trying to yank a f*cking hippo around a corner" isn't as polite.
--
Can we also see just how short Sebs Femurs are?
  • 11 10
 " ... After getting used to the bike I was able to really push on, hitting familiar alternating berms harder than I had before. When pushing into these short, sharp turns there was plenty of support to push against, but with the fast rebound tune the bike would almost jump from one turn to the next. ... "
So what?
  • 16 24
flag TheBearDen (Jun 14, 2021 at 9:11) (Below Threshold)
 @tyrolens: If you for one minute think this bike snaps corners the way other bikes in its category can with slightly shorter front centers and that don't have silly goose time head angles you have already drank the koolaid and I'm not gonna hang around to watch you finish another cup. Some people like to plow trail some people like enjoy a trail. This bike is for plowing.

Go pass a 15 pound medicine ball between your hands while in a plank position and then do it again but a plank position from your knees and let me know which one was easier.
  • 81 7
 at the coclusion of the Reach Wars, nobody under 5'10" will be able to mountain bike comfortably anymore
  • 7 5
 @badbikekarma: ain't that the truth.
  • 23 15
 @TheBearDen: I guess, your experience with that kind of bikes is zero?
  • 23 14
 @tyrolens: I'd wager you guess on a lot of things.
  • 40 2
 I've had one for over a year now, and I'm on an XL, 6"4" 194cm.
Agree 100% with the need to ride it hard, its not a cruising around kinda bike, hanging off the back in proper trails leads to bad outcomes Smile
I went to Geometron HQ for the custom fit, and it's mindblowing how much of a difference it made in terms of shock setup to virtually eliminate bobbing when pedalling with the climb switch off, handlebar height, brake angle, BB height, fork setup.

Love my G1, best bike I've had to date.
  • 2 2
 @TheBearDen: drink, drank, drunk
  • 10 0
 @TheBearDen: Who says plowing a trail isn't enjoyable? It's just different. I will say, the G1 does definitely dumb down a lot of trails - it is a _big_ bike, afterall. It's sort of like saying that riding a dh bike down an xc descent isn't enjoyable; it's just not the perfect tool for the job - still enjoyable, tho!

Definitely agree tho, it doesn't snap around corners like other bikes; it does charge around them tho.
  • 6 0
 I've got one too. It's overkill for trail centres imo, but imperious in steep natural stuff, particularly if grip is low and it's off camber.
(I spent pretty much the entire demo ride sliding around on wet leaves wondering why I was still upright. I put the order in soon after.)

I will second the demo service as well - I tried mine set up as a 29er and mullet and the two ride very differently. It's well worth the trip to get it set up properly. It's a bike that isn't for everyone, so it's worth a try to see if it suits you when set up for your riding style.
  • 4 1
 Long small to me meant maybe a 450 but my jaw dropped when I saw 470.
  • 13 6
 "Long geometry demands a proactive and assertive riding style"
Translation
Turns like a 747 taxing down LAX
Manualing is like doing a 500lb deadlift
  • 4 0
 @in2falling: I like how the wheelbase is measured in light years and the welds. They’re the best welds.
  • 10 2
 @in2falling: Manualing isn't easy on it. That's not what the bike is made for. Literally, the bike is made to go as fast as possible, not manual as easy as possible. No one has sold it any differently than that. It doesn't turn as bad you as you think it might, just a bit different.

You want a bike that manuals easy, get something with short chainstays and a short front center. This isn't a secret to anyone.
  • 1 0
 @badbikekarma: phew, I’m 5’11” and happy to hear I can continue mountain biking comfortably into the future.
  • 7 2
 I find it puzzling, when these super long bikes are sold with the disclaimer that they are for "the agressive, assertive, advanced rider" when the pros are all riding 40-50mm shorter bikes. I think these super long bikes are good for more of beginner riders because they give you confidence and security.
  • 4 1
 @bikefuturist: until you are riding in a comfortable position and the front end washes out.. definitley not for the beginner experience.. if you're not hanging over the bars you're not going to be having a very good time
  • 1 0
 @iamalexm: or just adjust the chainstays to make them shorter, maybe go mullet.
  • 1 0
 @honourablegeorge: I did adjust the chainstays to go shorter, I have the shortest mutators on there. Still hard to manual. They only go so short. 27.5 would probably make it easier, but I still don't think that would change it so much to make the bike truly easy to manual. Again, not really what the bike is about imo.
  • 2 1
 @bikefuturist: I disagree, the bike feels really good at speed/going fast. Riding slower and with not a lot of confidence, the bike doesn't feel as good and is harder to ride imo.
  • 3 0
 @Alan1977: the thing is beginners don't rly rail corners that hard. The long reach is great for confidence in rolls/undulated terrain. It gives them the advantage in negating OTB tendency of a bike.
  • 77 6
 With no water bottle mount your future is dehydration
  • 27 2
 In future we'll be getting water from microchip implants. Subscription or ad based
  • 58 5
 Looks like a Grim Donut
  • 13 2
 How about the other way around?
  • 6 1
 grim donut with dual crown would be nuts
  • 19 1
 @kanasasa: tunoD mirG a ekil skooL
  • 16 1
 @danielfloyd: shhhh no leaks! Smile
  • 1 0
 @goaskalice: Beat me to it!
  • 3 0
 Nope, grim Donut looks like this. :-D
  • 32 0
 People are still skeptical of the dimensions and geometry, but look how close the new Transition Spire is to this bike. Commencal is getting close too. Also, considering there is a thriving industry of brands that exist to modify existing geometry, the ability to adjust and change aspects of this bike is undersold. As one commentor has pointed out, and as Paul Aston did, you can run this at 210mm of travel in the rear just by switching out the shock, and keep the geometry fairly constant with the mutators.

Also, with regard to the weight, Nicolai/Geometron is not shy about that. This bike is intentionally built like a brick shithouse. That is a plus for some people, especially those who know they could save 10-20lbs going uphill by drinking less beers after the ride and in general.

But it sucks at skinnies, wheelie drops, and an XXL is too long for most bike racks without some jerry-rigging. So there is that.
  • 2 0
 I just put on the shorter chainstay mutators and the wheelie drops got a lot easier!
  • 22 2
 "drinking less beers after the ride"... for F0cks sake man, what's the point of riding then...
  • 16 0
 Drinking less beers after a ride: NO WAY!
Drinking less beers in general: I admit: sometimes I replace beer with wine.
  • 5 1
 Granted transition and commencal are close, yes, CLOSE. But it’s 2021. This bike was designed in 2015/16.... but I’m also biased because I have a XXL G1 and as a 6’6” park rider, it’s the shiz! It fits on my 2013 Kurt rack tooSmile
  • 1 0
 Meta still runs 435 CS on all sizes. Jack Reading rode a proto verison of the G16 in WCDH with a HD downtube. So its built for abuse.
  • 3 0
 @gonecoastal: He was riding a G19 Prototype dir 29 Wheels in La Bresse.

The Downtube of the G1 is from the g19
  • 3 0
 @stiingya: you could argue riding a heavier bike let’s you drink more beers after the ride.
  • 3 0
 @emrysevans: it's a key part of my strategy.
More bike = more cake = more biking = more fun.
  • 2 0
 @gonecoastal: it's too bad they stick with that short rear center. Otherwise it's a great looking crusher of a bike. A flip chip giving a 1cm chainstay length adjustment would go a long way.
  • 1 0
 @alexsin: Meta TR and Kavenz top of my list once they lengthen RC
  • 1 0
 @alexsin: either I'm missing the joke, or you are missing that the chainstays are fully adjustable on the g1
  • 3 0
 560mm reach on the XXL. Would recommend to any basketball players. I’m not sure many companies will ever go that far. There’s no prefect geometry combinations there’s always a compromise. What they’ve done here is made a bike that’s very good at certain things and poor at others. If you lived somewhere like the alps with big flat out gnarly trails I’d imagine you’d be pretty happy with this bike.
  • 2 0
 @cavegiant: We're talking about the Meta AM/TRs needing more CS length.
  • 24 2
 using Spherical bearings, thats racecar stuff
Nicolai and mojo have been in front of everyone for years.
guaranteed better feel, sensitivity and life on those
37lbs with a dual crown fork? whats the problem here, thats the weight of most carbon enduro build
perfectly fine weight for a proper AL frame with cnc all over and fully customizable.
every bike should have chainstay adjustability to balance with the front
gg
  • 6 0
 Every bike should have chainstay adjustability to balance with the front! Thank you! Couldn’t agree more!
  • 31 8
 470 mm reach on a small.. might need to use a medieval limb stretcher to ride this bike.
  • 8 1
 Mullet form and/or mutators or bar height allow for 455-465 reach range for shorter riders like me.
  • 7 2
 I am 6' and on a large; I was very surprised how the reach didn't feel as long as the numbers would suggest.
  • 9 4
 not true...we are talking about the difference of 40 millimeters in reach (approx 1.5") but a sizable difference in wheelbase.

If you want a bike move....just look at your dirtbike. Motocross figured this out years ago.

It's the mtb designers / manufacturers that has hasnt had the budgets (or incentive) to go through huge redesigns. A milimeter here and a millimeter there bikes havent changed much. Again, look at your dirtbike. those things haul ass.
  • 6 3
 @iamalexm: agreed. Im 5'6" and on a new Meta (medium) with 470 reach and I could go longer. The front end of the bike feels like a weapon, not like its going to fold underneath me.
  • 2 3
 How many other bike manufacturers make frames in your range though? These "outliers" are making bikes for those of us who don't fit properly on the normal range of bikes.
  • 1 0
 The new meta is a SICK bike, rode on one last week and I love it
  • 4 0
 @lastminutetech: to be fair with mtb, the sport isn't nearly as old as dirtbikes. Dirtbikes geo haven't evolved much in the last 10 years and little for the 10 years before that. But looking further than 20 years ago geo weren't sorted out and it took from the 50's to the early 2000's to be actually sorted. Now granted DH mtb could have taken much more inspiration from MX to get where we are now faster but then again, HA has been sorted since 2010, many people were already over sizing to get more stable bikes and if people didn't mess up with shit like wheel sizes or boost whatever they could have focused on figuring out proper geo which is way more important. Probably harder to pitch/sell tho.
  • 1 0
 @lastminutetech: I just started trail riding on dirt bikes last year, it is NUTS what you can get away with compared to MTBs.
  • 4 0
 It's not just reach. The 79' ESTA has a major effect in shortening the ETT so it's not as long as it sounds.
  • 20 0
 I have owned a G1 since late 2019 and I can't say enough good things about the customer service I have received from the Geometron team. Sourcing bearings, mutators, and advice has been just as good / better than any shop I have frequented.
  • 15 0
 Been on my small G1 for 2 years now and a G16 before that. Love it. Demo'ing with Chris at BPW or forest of dean is recommended if you can. I actually run the 15mm ST mutator and 44mm CS mutator in mullet form with a 37mm offset 650b Fox 38 with 29" lowers. Feels awesome and great COM with 62ish HTA and 78ish STA. Definitely don't feel the weight on the trail and especially so with a 30T ring paired to a 10/51 cassette. Same set up with swapping the little wheel on the front brings it to 79/63ish range. At 35-36lbs with pedals and inserts I really don't see that being too heavy for a 175mm travel enduro/dh bike
  • 10 0
 Username checks out
  • 21 2
 Funny how people judge without trying.
  • 5 2
 Flatbuttistan sure had a lot to say today.
  • 11 0
 I'd love to see bikes like this compared to more mainstream bikes, its all well and good comparing it to another heavy alu enduro bike, but the privateer isnt exactly common the world over compare it to like a spez enduro so we can see how it really goes against the benchmark offerings
  • 3 0
 It's a fair point. I haven't ridden the Speciailzed Enduro and the 161 is the bike I've ridden the most lately so it's the best comparison I have.
  • 2 0
 @seb-stott: yea and thats a better reason to use it as a comparison than making assumptions on bikes you havent ridden or trying to remember how a bike you rode 2 years ago feels

its just that bikes like this (read: geometron, pole, privateer, whatever is considered to have "extreme geometry" and make extreme claims of performance) are so often tested in isolation which can be frustrating. Pinkbike tested the stamina 140 in that group test was brilliant, more of that! i just want to see bikes like this demystified

same thing happens in cars, apparently koenigsegg won't let the press use a car if its going to be part of a group test.
  • 11 1
 The Geometron G1 is definitely a sweet bike. I wouldn't want it to be my only bike though. That 62.5 degree head angle would get old on anything but the steepest descents. After a lot of experimentation I've settled on 64 degree head angle as a nice sweet spot for handling in steep and rough terrain but also being decent on flatter or flowy rides.
  • 3 0
 I have one, and am thinking of a XC hardtail as a 2nd bike for the mellow spins. I rode hardtails for several years before FS time though
  • 1 0
 @irldutchie: One of my previous bikes had a 63 degree head angle and weighed about 35 pounds. I eventually built up a hardtail and rode that on more XC-style rides.
  • 4 0
 @WalrusRider: Yep, I've got a G16, and a Stanton Switchback. Mellower trails, flow trails, jump trails = hardtail time. Steep gnar gnar = time to ride the bus.
  • 3 0
 @MorganBH: Same. G16 and Chromag Surface.
  • 2 0
 @gonecoastal: Same same. G13 and BTR Ranger.
  • 11 1
 I agree on the narrow rims, I was on 21mm rims for a long time and never felt I needed wider, I then got a new bike with 29mm rims and 2.6" tyres and it feels much better with no noticeable tyre squirm. I since got a bike with 25mm rims and 2.6" tyres and find I have to compromise with tyre pressure so I've bought a 29mm rim. Wide is definitely better IMO
  • 7 6
 Complete opposite for me. Been running EX471's and previous equivalent for years and wouldn't run anything else. Recently got a trail bike with 30mm rims and running the same set up with tyres etc felt horrible, tyre profile was so bad and just felt slow and all over the place.
  • 2 0
 @Freakyjon: I've had the same experience as you. Much prefer 25mm especially on the rear wheel.
  • 2 0
 @Freakyjon:

I tried 30mm and went back to 25/28mm, makes the bike more precise and responsive.
  • 2 0
 @Freakyjon:
Of course your preferred tyre width also makes a huge difference, I tend to run 2.6" tyres but if I were on 2.3" then a narrower rim might be better suited. I used to run Magic Mary 2.35" on 21mm rims and never thought twice about it and they sized up to around 2.5"
  • 2 0
 Tyre/rim combo is critical. On the front wheel I found the 2.35 MM was fine on 23mm rim, too square on 35mm. 2.5 Assegai on the same 35mm rim is amazing. I still have a 25mm rear though as I tend to use 2.3-2.35 tyres there. I call it "horizontal mullet".
  • 11 0
 I hear the phrase “weighting the front” being thrown around a lot now with longer front centers. Really your weight should be on you feet not your hands. Just watch Sam Hill.
  • 4 0
 Exactly, maybe it is easier for people who clip in. But honestly I would never want a bike which requires me to focus on weighting the front, bacause the second you let go on a trail with a bit less grip, you are down. And not many of us can constantly charge, sometimes one need a chill ride just to recover.
  • 14 1
 I've got a G1. I'll be honest in that I can't corner like Sam Hill, but with that out of the way here's my take...

It's not requiring you to put all your weight on the front. You still predominantly weight your feet, but if you're dropping into a switchback you can't be scared and lean back - you need to commit and keep your weight central (a bit like skiing). I found that, for me as a 6'3 chap coming off a shorter and steeper bike, it very much feels that you're riding 'in' the bike, and that you have a very good feeling as to where the grip is front and rear. Drifts are gradual rather than sudden, and you can easily move your weight back or forward to control the grip. You have quite a large window of control and you can feel it intuitively. Obviously there's a combination of factors involved in achieving that, but I think the main one is the length and low bb. Hope that makes sense...
  • 2 0
 @lkubica: On my test ride I asked to ride stuff that wasn't crazy steep (I knew it would be done at that). As I said above the bike drifts beautifully and I had a great laugh on some mellow wet leaf covered trails. It excelled there.
Where it isn't so good is mellow grippy trails (trail centres) as it's a bit overkill. Depends on your local riding to decide if it suits you...
It is more fun the more actively/hard you ride it though!
  • 2 0
 @slimboyjim: That makes sense. For somebody who isn’t Sam Hill a roomier bike will probably be easier to ride.
  • 2 2
 So in your opinion you should get on the bike, remain in the same position all the time and wait for things to happen ? Problem is, you can't ride a 2 wheeled vehicle this way, not if you want some performance out of it anyway. Problem is, with shorter bikes you need to be very precise in your weight shifts, because of this is makes lazy and slow riders, you can get away with staying in the middle and accept poor performance. Longer bikes allow you to have more room to move, load the front when you need grip there, move to the back when you want grip at the back or unload the front. Because it is longer you have more room for error to learn how it feels to actually pilot your bike instead of being a passenger. Try to ride a MX bike and I guarantee it will be an eye opener. Actually riding your bike isn't that much more difficult but it requires you to be active instead of being passive, since you are American, I assume you despise assistance and handouts so you should also despise short bikes that do the work for you lol.
  • 1 0
 @lkubica: With a longer reach I don't think you have to think about it; it happens passively because your centre of mass has already been moved forward. It would also make it more difficult to hang too far off the back.
  • 2 0
 @boozed: nah, that's what long chainstays do to you. If you have a 500mm reach with 430mm CS you better load that front wheel if you want the bike to corner.
  • 2 0
 @Balgaroth: I agree to a point but speaking from my own experience, I recently changed from a bike with 470mm reach, 440mm CS and 65° HA to one with 500mm reach, 440mm CS and 64° HA, with an overall increase in front centre of about 55mm. I was concerned that this would be a problem because similar bikes (e.g. the Norco Sight, which has a slightly longer CS) emphasise the need for an aggressive rider-forward riding style. In the end it turned out to be the opposite - I used to struggle for front traction and now I rarely have to think about it.
  • 1 0
 @boozed: that's interesting. Any idea how your bar and BB height have changed between both bikes ? By experience, everything else equal, longer CS help load the front end, but my latest bike taught me that Bar/BB heigh has a massive effect on how the front wheel is loaded.
  • 1 0
 @Balgaroth: Since you mention it, bar height might be a lot of the difference. The BB height is almost identical but some quick measurements indicate the grips are about 40mm higher, which I assume makes it easier to weight the front. The stem's also 25mm shorter. The new setup does feel more relaxed.
  • 14 1
 This is the bike that all other companies are incrementally striving for.
  • 3 1
 In 5-6 years of tiny changes they might actually get there.
  • 1 0
 I think they have plateu'd with racers both in enduro and DH not even moving in that direction
  • 11 0
 Had mine 2 years now (XL running full 29er)...simply the best bike I've ever had. Since getting it at built at Geometron the only thing I've changed is tyres and brake pads.
  • 8 0
 I’ve owned 2 of these, bought #2 after #1 was stolen, and they are unreal on the steep and chunky. Like, mind blowing. If it’s not steep and chunky however, they are kind of boring because small trail features are bull dozed over. Gotta ride it fast and hard all the time to get the most out of it, but the benefit is that it will go faster and harder than you. Endless traction on the downs and ups. Also it’s quite comfortable for 7 or 8 hour big mountain loops, I would choose it over a little trail bike every time. Having said all that, if I went for #3 I would size down because I like bouncing around and goofing off. Having said that, I ordered a spire because the geo is almost the same, but it holds a water bottle. And I hate my endurobro fanny pack.
  • 14 3
 This is the bike you buy if you're trying to out-enduro your brahs.
  • 5 3
 I think you got confused - this isn’t a Transition or Santa Cruz Wink
  • 6 0
 I bloody love my G1, it has made me enjoy biking more than any other bike, like so enthusiastic about getting out and riding absolutely anything whenever I can. I wish any future bike I own will be able to deliver that. It even makes me smile when I just look at it! I can only imagine the same feeling when a parent looks at their kid.
  • 6 0
 all i can think of when i see this bike is the old (2013/2014) specialized status. i love raw alloy, raw is better than paint hands down (carbon, ti, chromoly or alloy). sick bike!
  • 3 0
 This is basically a Nicolai Ion which was released in 2008, so either way it is older than the Status. I love my M-pire and my Ion hopefully one day I will get back to Nicolai.
  • 2 1
 There are some small differences between the Geometron and the Nicolai. I believe the seat angle is steeper, the head angle slacker, and the spherical bearings / custom shock from memory (I might be wrong here - feel free to correct me!)...
  • 3 0
 @slimboyjim: g1 is the same bike, G16 used to be different.
  • 3 0
 @slimboyjim: correction: no difference. They used to be different with previous iterations. Now, G1 same from both companies (Geometron and Nicolai).
  • 1 0
 @erikkellison: Now Geometron gets you the spherical shock bearings and custom tune over Nicolai.
  • 3 0
 @gonecoastal: Mostly false (because “liar liar pants on fire” just seems mean).
Nicolai offers spherical bearings on all Storia-equipped G1.
Geometron does offer custom tuning, but in speaking with Chris, he told me the vast majority of Storia-equipped G1’s leave Geometron with the custom tune he helped develop with EXT, which is the same as the custom tune you get on a Storia purchased w/ a G1. This is because the custom tune works for most riders, and only if you’re outside normal parameters by quite a bit, he/they encourage you to try the tune first, and report back with issues.
  • 1 0
 @erikkellison: Where does one order spherical bearings from?
  • 2 0
 @gonecoastal: any bearing shop, same as for needle, angular, cartrige bearing, those are not made specificaly for Storia, they exist in the industry, cars, motorbikes and so on. Now is there a bearing that would fit into a standard bike shock eyelet is the right question. You'd want to check SKF, *ag or INA catalogs and see what would fit. Some specialty companies like CR Conception in France used to (maybe still do) offer some needle bearing kits to replace shock bushings so maybe the outer diam is not a bike specific standard.
  • 2 0
 @gonecoastal: i’m not sure you can simply retrofit spherical bearings into any shock eyelet. What I remember when I first learned of spherical bearings when Cane Creek introduced the double barrel shock, I had to have the eyelets bored out. While I haven’t taken my Storia apart, I have seen photos that show a C clip retaining spring that keeps the spherical bearing centered, which would point to a more complicated shock eyelet than simply a drilled hole.
I’m not sure how PUSH is doing it, but they are supposedly doing spherical bearings as well.
  • 7 1
 You can get more or less travel at the back with a shorter or longer shock. I'm currently running a 241x76mm shock for +210mm rear travel! Hands down the best bike I have ever owned and ridden!
  • 1 0
 High BBs rock no? But how high is it?
  • 1 0
 @BenPea: Change out the seatstay mutuator for a shoter one, BB height can be kept the same.
  • 1 0
 @BenPea: My bb is at 355mm which isn't high with the amount of rear travel I have. Still hit the ground sometimes when pedalling so could go higher.
  • 1 0
 @SintraFreeride: Same as mine pretty much, if not less. I've wondered about the validity of the low trend and you don't hear much about the advantages, compared to geometry angles and lengths. R lo BBs BS?
  • 2 0
 @BenPea: Well I think I have to agree with Paul Aston when it comes to BBH: low bb was a good thing on short bikes but becomes less important on longer bikes. Personally I think BBH needs to be adjusted to compensate for travel and whether or not you do technical uphill pedaling. For 200mm travel I think ~360mm is pretty good. For 180mm around 350mm.
I find seat tube length to be a much more important factor which is why I have the L frame with an S seat tube length of 415mm.
  • 2 0
 @SintraFreeride: agree.
Yeaah, long ST on larger frames has been a bizarre anomaly until recent years. A lingering hangover from the road bike geometries of 80s-90s MTBs. So you can now have a good looking L or XL frame.
  • 16 11
 It is always fun to read about progressive geometry that suppose to win podiums and newer see those bikes at the championship's - we design fast bikes - no one never won anything on those bikes
  • 34 5
 The best riders win races and they will be riding for the brands with the best team budgets, not the brands with the best bikes.
  • 18 4
 Racing is a financial thing, and has very little to do with bikes—aside from selling them.
  • 7 1
 @spicysparkes: Also "best" is wholly dependent on a person's riding style and the terrain they ride on.
  • 32 1
 Jack Moir just posted a video that I think goes a long way to explaining this. He tested the short, steep Strive vs. the longer, slacker Spectral. He said the Spectral felt much faster and more comfortable on fast straight aways, and on tracks he was familiar with, but the Strive was much easier to change direction on the fly when he was unfamiliar with the track. He also said that while it was less stable, it was not too much harder to rally in a straight line. He also noted that on the tight European tracks, there tends to be more time to be made/lost in the tight tech than in the fast straights.

I think this goes a long way to explaining why EWS racers run short bikes. Because they only get one practice run, they are going to have to ride more 'reactively' than 'proactively', whereas someone racing downhill, or someone riding their local trails, will be able ride a longer, slacker bike faster because they know all the set up lines and have to make fewer quick adjustments on the fly.

@sebstott I'd be curious on your thoughts about this having tested a lot of long bikes over the years.
  • 5 3
 I'd like to at least see them prove it some amazing thing before dropping 6 to 8k$ on a 38lb bike that's long as a Lincoln. I'm fine with bro science stuff too. I say throw it into the EnduroMag shoot out (give them some extra setup and testing love) and have at it. If the big pro riders were running XXL bikes with an angle set, I'd be more interested...but when we are seeing big pros sizing down (6-6 Jack Mior)...and even little pros (Remy and maybe Jesse). Its not a good look.
  • 4 0
 @eblackwell: Moir’s bike last year had under a 460mm reach with the under fork spacer, longer fork, and huge stack of spacers under the bars on large frame!
  • 1 0
 @shepridesbikes: was it 460 as standard or was the 460 measured after the increased stack? Banshees new bikes for example come up fairly short in a large (470), but the increased stack height means this figure is more true to life since you won't necessarily need any spacers.
  • 2 0
 @AlanMck: Pretty sure its a bit under 460 actually. Stock bike is 464 with 170mm fork. Jack's has 180mm fork and about 30mm of spacers. He's probably closer to 453ish I'd guess.
  • 3 0
 @eblackwell: Even the Spectral only has 480mm of reach in a Large (Jack rides a large Strive), plus the stack is lower. After spacers/overforking etc...he'd have nearly the same reach as a size Small G1 I think. Regardless, is the world filled with long straight, steep gnarly trails? I'm a trail builder and we aren't trying to build straight lines through the trees but the opposite.
  • 8 0
 @eblackwell: I keep seeing this being repeated all over the place, that EWS pros size down, but every time I look into their bike checks they seem to be all over the place. Some size down, some follow the size table, others size up.
I think it's one of those things that were repeated enough to become "internet truth"
  • 4 0
 @Arierep:

This article explains it pretty well.

enduro-mtb.com/en/enduro-race-bike-mtb-review
  • 3 1
 @Saidrick: except it doesn't. I've read it more than once by now, and while is certainly interesting, it has some issues:
- tiny sample size
- they only tested on one trail

Someone in a similar discussion here a few weeks ago actually shared a spreadsheet with a good sample of pro riders and frame sizes. It was pretty obvious that they are all over the place.
  • 3 0
 @Arierep: While there are certain exceptions, I think the general trend is towards smaller bikes for EWS racing, or at least a significant subset of the top racers that prefer smaller bikes. For example, if you look at the top 10 at Finale last year, the vast majority are on recommended or smaller than recommended size for their height, (with Jesse shortening his bike over the off season). And for most of the riders, we're talking about frame sizes that are modern but not extreme like the Geometron in this review. Which EWS racers have you found that have size up? I can only think of Greg Callaghan who I think was on an XL Spartan for a while, but I don't know if he raced on it.
  • 3 0
 @Arierep:

The “one trail” they tested on is an actual EWS course AND they took the best 3 out of 5 runs AND their testers are actual EWS racers. Additionally, the article actually names EWS racers and why they run small bikes and handlebars.
  • 1 2
 @Saidrick: EWS trails vary widely from eachother and different bikes will shine on different trails. This, testing in a single location is inconclusive.

Also, the testing was conducted, as far as I know, but the Enduro-mtb team. Some ews teams actually sent them the bike's, others were just "replicas" of the actual ones
  • 1 0
 @eblackwell: Leigh Johnson
  • 5 0
 Been riding the Mojo G13 for 5 years now (alongside a custom 190x55 DHX2) and I can honestly say, that's all the bike I'll ever need - 2 trips to Whistler and no issues what so ever.
  • 7 3
 Weight does affect climbing but I feel the overriding thing is just how much more knackering riding a heavy bike is , I went froma 34lb Alpine 160 to a Giant carbon Trance and I was blown away how I could ride all day not be cream crackered fter 2 hrs. This bike is probably best suited to uplift days at that weight for me anyway.
  • 4 1
 5000ft days on my G1, its no xc whippet up the hills, but given its a big enduro bike, it pedals damn well
  • 4 0
 I have one. I'm 195 and run an Xl with a 50mm stem... Up from the 35 it came with. I found a longer and lower stem helped weight the front that bit more... That HA does take some getting used to. I had it set from mojo almost identical to my Pole hardtail in terms of reach and bar height. But oddly it felt short and high. It is a heavy bike - the factory spec doesn't do it any favours as hope 30 wheels are almost 2.5kg a set and a Betty rear should only ever be fitted to an eeb or a park bike. I quickly swapped for lighter wheels, smaller lighter cassette and more enduro friendly tyres. It made a massive difference. It's not a shits and giggles bike like the evil insurgent it replaced but bloody hell it's fast and so stable...it really is something else on super steep, rooty, rocky natural trails. It's like the difference between wings and slicks, vs high power low grip and sideways on a track. There's room for both. It would be shit single bike, but if you have terrain to hand to do it justice, then you'll love the sensation of speed it offers. To summarise... I would get off the Evil giggling. I get off this fizzing and wondering when I'm going to find the limits and really hurt myself . There's room in everyone's life for both... Unless you're self employed and don't have good insurance. Build quality also worth a mention. The attention to detail is simply the best I've ever experienced in. 25 years of mtb.
  • 7 0
 Build quality cannot be overstated. Nothing compares. I think this is not understood until you look closely, or work on it.
  • 7 0
 The best thing for future proofing bikes is a good income.
  • 4 1
 Why couldn't you just find out what the frame weighs? A key part of this whole review is the weight of the bike - plus you mention that there are many different build specs. Just telling us weight of the one particular spec you ran doesn't really help the reader figure things out.
  • 3 0
 The XL frame weights in at 3‘930g without shock. With EXT shock it is 4'750g.

I built my XL up to 16.6 without pedals (but incl. cush core front and back, EXO tires and Fox38, XO cassette, Newmen alu wheels).
  • 3 0
 I have a 2018 G15, which I've made a few modifications to in order to get a bit closer to G1 geometry, minus 2.5 angleset, long-shocked. I can't imagine riding another bike besides a Geometron/Nicolai. After 20 years of riding bikes too small for my tall self, it's refreshing to learn what a proper bike size should feel like. My only complaint is that the stack height always felt too low, but some Dartmoor Lightning Hi rise bars made it spot on.
  • 4 2
 I’ve had good luck with sizing down on the Nicolai G15 and G1. Despite their recommendations, a small fits me perfectly fine. Also, I recommend purchasing the frames from Nicolai or Bike-Discount if you don’t want the EXT shock. I’m not a huge fan of the EXT tunes, and have been much happier using a combination of tuned coil and air shocks.

Carbon everything and you can get the bike down to 32lbs, so mine don’t really feel like pigs IMO
  • 1 3
 So you don’t like the ect shock but never tuned it? Doesn’t make a lot of sense
  • 5 2
 @freeridejerk888: the EXT comes tuned for you and their adjustments for a different time follow their extremely soft approach. I tried the stock and a firmer tune and disliked both.
  • 2 0
 Disappointed to see the fork in reality doesn’t work any better than a stock fox item, adjustable offset is cool but only if it fixes a problem you know you have - there are so many adjustments to go through on this bike already.

Looks like the 38 is a better option in any case, cool concept though.
  • 3 0
 People who strap 4lbs of water, tube and tools to their carbon frames which must be overbuilt to not crack on impact complaining about a 37lb enduro-ready XXL-sized bike. Yeah.
  • 2 0
 I got my G1 just under a year ago after discussions with the guys at Geometron then ordered one right after a test ride.
I run it as my only bike, with lighter wheels and tyres for all round use and downhill hoops for the rough. Naturally it’s superb on the rough, steep stuff as expected but the bike amazes me with how good it is at climbing and how comfortable and efficient it is to ride for such a big bike even on everyday use and gravel path rides etc - all the stuff I originally thought it would be crap at. Just my take anyway but would recommend a test ride, Geometron guys are super knowledgeable and offer top notch service.
  • 4 0
 All that cutting edge geometry and it's the shock bearings which are really making my mouth water.
  • 9 8
 I think there’s more than a few seconds difference in climbing times with this bike, otherwise the author would have posted the times between the Focus Jam and the G1.


To me this bike is for racing enduro or self shuttling dh runs only. And for that purpose, it’s an excellent choice. As a trail bike or for riding around everyday, not so much.
  • 15 3
 I went from a 14kg carbon enduro to a 18kg enduro converted dh bike with geometry similar to the g1 and it climbs slightly slower but more comfortably. If you really care so much about climb times what are you doing looking at a 170+mm travel bike, the new Scott spark seems much better choice for you.
  • 6 0
 @spicysparkes:

It’s not so much that I care about the climbing, as the review never really identifies what type of riding this bike is intended for.

New/ uninformed riders reading this review will think this is a regular type of mountain bike. It’s not.
If you ride this bike on regular trails, it will feel like you’re “road biking” on dirt. It will mute the majority of rocks and roots.

If huge gap jumps and crazy steep downhill is your jam, this bike is awesome. However the review tried to paint this bike as a heavier do-it -all bike, which I do not agree with.

P.s. for the record, my 160mm fork bike weighs 30lbs and my 200mm dh bike weighs 1 pound more than the G1.
  • 3 0
 Agreed, this bike seems like the ultimate choice for shuttling or bike park days. For general use, it would be too much for my area. Absolutely love the looks and design approach, it's a beautiful bike.
  • 2 0
 @Saidrick: I agree that it mutes the trail because it is so capable. It is similar as if you were riding your DH bike on your mellow trails. It also make you go too fast all the time so you approach these mellow corners at a very high speed :-)
I do have a 2nd bike now "for around the house" that is more nimble. But I am still not convinced it was necessary and I miss my G1 every time :-)
  • 4 3
 I have one and have had some other bikes before this one. When you say this is for dh runs only and shuttled it is clear you never climbed with one of these. I do climbs better than ever on the G1. Front wheel stays put on steep hills and the pedal efficiency is the best I have tried. This bike is the best bike I ever had for downhill and for climbing. One thing is all the theories here on the comments, another is riding it ;-)
  • 1 0
 @Saidrick: have you ridden one? Its been my one offroad bike for 6 years now - I ride it on all surfaces. The foot isa so good I'd not want to ride anything else.
  • 1 0
 @DylanH93: Dont agree, it a great all rounder, put on light 29 wheels for long rides if you must. I dont.
  • 3 0
 @mudfish:

I have not ridden one. It’s the exact opposite of what I want in an everyday bike:

I like my wheel bases to be short, my head angles to be closer to 65, super steep seat angles are awful for rolling terrain or flat trail sections and and having crazy amounts of travel makes the trail feel like pavement.

And I don’t like the idea of climbing with a bike that weighs almost as much as my dh bike.


Also, there is no getting around the fact that bikes with wheel bases this long simply will never be good at tight turns or switchbacks.
Your mileage may vary.
  • 10 5
 I’m lazy and the Kenevo SL is two lbs heavier? Maybe 3?
  • 6 3
 And it's a darn good bike Smile
  • 4 0
 and it can get you to the top without Wade Simmons legs or a lift
  • 7 8
 cost the same, looks much better, ride easier and faster uphill, more or same fun downs
  • 7 1
 @nickmalysh: I think you just turned me into an ebiker.
  • 5 0
 Amazing bike, works in the tight stuff too. Can't praise it enough
  • 2 0
 I find it goes around tight corners well and speculate it is because your weight is more centered and thus with less pressure on the back wheel it comes around easier. I compare it to a Yeti with 430 chainstays.
  • 5 0
 I welcome any future where bikes have external cable routing!
  • 2 0
 was hoping for the Ext Era fork on this bike. not one review of this now production fork is to be found out there. it's like there's some kind of conspiracy to prevent anyone from reviewing it. so strange.
  • 1 0
 On the Pinkbike podcast they have talked about getting a long term review done so I would think we see it before too long.
  • 2 0
 @mixmastamikal: the EXT Era review is as elusive as the Grim Donut review.
They had that fork almost a year now.
  • 4 0
 This is unreal. You can buy a shock and a dual crown fork and have a DH bike and enduro bike in one.
  • 1 0
 I propose you have a Fox38/EXT shock and then rather buy a lighter wheel set. The EXT climbs well.
  • 1 0
 @mtb-journal: What about Nero R or Öhlins DH38 m.1?
  • 3 1
 We need a review of this vs a "normal" geometry bike. Had mine over a year now and I wouldnt change a thing about it. Does it all way better than anything else. Built to last and go fast.
  • 7 6
 Great review, super exciting bike, dumb paragraph justifying the weight. Just say that it’s supposed to be overbuilt with a lot of flip chips adding weight. We all are aware 38lbs bikes exist, we all know there’s more to climbing than just weight and we all know weight is noticeable going downhill too, nobody is trying to convince people that an entire extra kilogram is only 1% different in performance, that’s ridiculous and you know it
  • 15 2
 Why is it ridiculous?
  • 3 2
 People are so obsessed with weight. That's why people are so obsessed with plastic! I remember years ago trying out a mates Kona Stab Downhill Bike which weighed about 50lbs. I did a downhill run and actually rode the thing back up the hill as a test. I was actually pretty amazed how well a 50lb DH Bike climbed. This thing clearly won't be a problem even though it weights 37lb Stop being so obsessed with weight. It's about the quality of the bike and how it rides that is important Don't forgot... Always buy metal, not plastic, and you won't go wrong.
  • 3 1
 Ever since carbon could save weight, we’ve been conditioned to think grams matter, because lighter carbon parts weigh less. They also make more profit, AND they break more, so bonus, replacement profit!
Does weight matter some? Sure! But does it matter as much as we’ve been conditioned to think it does? Nah, bro. Clearly there are non-weight advantages to carbon, but I’m not so sure that carbon is the pinnacle of frame materials, at least at this point. Agree, it’s much more about ride quality, durability, strength, and flexibility, than it is about saving all the grams. I hate twitchy bikes.
  • 3 0
 @erikkellison: Chris Porter once said that we are so obsessed about weight because it is one of the few things we can measure. And I think it is true.

I can't say my XO cranks perform better than my GX cranks.

My G1 one is the best climbing bike I ever had (I can compare it to the Yeti SB150 and 130), despite being 3kg heavier. A set of light wheels and different rubber are enjoyable.
  • 1 0
 I believe ghat this thing rides like a beast. But …. when I look around I see tons of awesome designs in animals or plants, strictures of carbon, crystals and many more - everything our nature designs is beautiful and functional.

So diamond bike frames are going to stay forever. If humanity dies and a new species rules the world - a new diamond frame will be invented - just because it is natural and the best way to do it.

This bike is is fun, for sure. But it wasn‘t build to stay forever …
  • 2 0
 incredible bike, over 6000 miles on mine to date and it's still getting better as i improve with it. Will be keeping this one for much longer than any other bike i've ever had
  • 1 0
 @sebstott, Thought for the day, have you tried running a high bb configuration to increase agility? You’ve got inherent stability with the long wheelbase and slack head angle. I found playing with BB height made a big difference to the handling allowing you to tailor it to your own preference and riding style. It can make it much more playful if that’s your thing.
I also found the rear of the bike outclassed the 160mm selva r it came with but a custom tuned 180mm 38 was a much better match. I,m running around 25% sag in the rear.
Absolutely love my G1, it’s so comfy on long trail rides as well as being super capable.
I do keep wondering about a 180mm ohlins dh38 though.....
  • 1 0
 What do I know, I’m slow & I like my 66 degree head angle just fine... but..

I really question the ultra-sensitive, custom coil shock, spherical bearings, self-sagging rear suspension ——— mated to an air fork. In my experience, even an ordinary air shock on ordinary bushings makes for rear suspension that feels WAY more active than a matched air fork, because of the inherent added seal drag on the fork, not to mention the telescoping bushings.
  • 1 0
 I'd love to see an updated review from Seb after he's decided what rear wheel size he likes and with a fork he knows and likes [that MORC 36 is Pretty specialist stuff] - so he is just testing the frame / suspension package.
Also a test with a more suitable 2.35/2.4 rear tyre to suit the fitted 471 rim rather than a fat bike tyre.
The G1 suits a smaller rear tyre or sure, that's the way MrPorter rides it (with 27.5 x 2.35 rear) and who's to say he is wrong ;~}
Ideally it would be great to know how Seb feels once he has had a bit more time to get used to the bike [in one configuration]. I never cease to be amazed at how testers can switch from their own bike to test bikes and adapt so quickly as to not still favour the one they are used to riding most days.
  • 1 0
 I'd love to see an updated review from Seb after he's decided what rear wheel size he likes and with a fork he knows and likes [that MORC 36 is Pretty specialist stuff] - so he is just testing the frame / suspension package.
Also a test with a more suitable 2.35 / 2.4 rear tyre to suit the fitted 471 rim rather than a fat e-bike tyre.
The G1 suits a narrower rear tyre for sure, that's the way MrPorter rides it (with 27.5 x 2.35 rear) and who's to say the guru of long, slack, low is wrong ;~}
Ideally it would also be great to know how Seb feels once he has had a bit more time to get used to the bike [in one configuration].
Respect due as I never cease to be amazed at how testers can switch from their own bike to test bikes and adapt so quickly as to not still favour the one they are used to riding most days.
  • 1 0
 I own an XL G1 and I’m 6.4, over the years I’ve ridden lots of bikes and like many of the comments suggest smaller bikes with less travel are poppy and playful ! However this is all relative to your terrain and the speeds you’re going! I used to live in the South East of England where the trails were all very below average and you needed a small travel short bike to bring life to the trail, popping off things and pulling a manual etc.
Then last year I moved to North Wales right by DYFI bike park! The terrain and speeds up here dissolve bikes with 475 reach and 150 travel . When descending at 40 miles per hour and hitting huge drops and step downs into fast high berms a long travel, long reach stable bike is the choice of weapon .
It’s this reason the other manufacturers are catching up, the trails and bike parks are getting faster and faster . The higher the speed the longer and slacker the bike needs to be, exactly why your MX bike is really big !
The speeds in the sport are much higher now than they used to be .
  • 3 0
 Finally some more proportionate chainstays for better balance in the bike!!
  • 5 0
 Bikes done right
  • 1 1
 I still believe Chris is right about 29ers. Or at least he acknowledged how they aren't the golden hammer in times when the industry keeps widening the rear end to try and make them stiffer without adding more weight to them wagon wheels.
  • 2 0
 I think it is a great bike but heavy and expensive. For this price you can get Carbon Nukeproof Mega or Giga and those bikes have great, modern geometry.
  • 4 0
 "customers are encouraged to order off-menu" Someone in the UK gets it.
  • 3 0
 The folks at Mojo are really good people and I've had nothing but great and accommodating service from them.
  • 4 1
 The saddle height on that Privateer! I'd get a nosebleed that high up.
  • 2 1
 Look at the saddle position of the G1, it's as far forward as he could get it and also makes me wince. I'm guessing Mr Stott doesn't care for our standards.
  • 1 0
 @djm35: I do that on my bikes but I wouldn't have thought it was necessary on a geometron.
  • 2 2
 @djm35: because XL 161 and longest G1 weren't longest enough
  • 1 0
 @ceecee: No, it's too long for the G1 if the saddle is slammed that far forward. It would be pulled back if it was too short.
  • 1 1
 @djm35: yes, that was the sarcastic point I was trying to make. When I see that saddle position/rotation, I think 'geometronitis.' That 'longest' is a medium and reviewer renames extra longest XL only confuses things. Length seems to be the most important feature. How long will I have to wait for an XXX long? To his credit, reviewer allows for downsizing, but longest in its tabled configuration is already longer than XL 161. So long
  • 3 3
 Something sounds bad in your bike man, You got play on your shock after winter?
Noooo man this is prototype spherical bushings!


No kidding cool stuff, I heard Ohlins did something similar.
  • 3 0
 5th Element used them years ago and DT use them too.
  • 3 0
 These are quite common in the moto world.
  • 4 0
 Adapat or die!
  • 15 0
 "The measure of intelligence is the ability to adapat."

Alabert Einstein
  • 1 0
 Haha missed that
  • 1 0
 I am curious if the negative spring action on the EXT is what they added as one of the updates for the new "E-Storia". Sounds really similar
  • 3 0
 hey mom, just out of curiosity, whats your credit card number?
  • 2 0
 As soon as I return my defective NS Define 150, I'm ordering one of these bad boys.
  • 3 1
 Specialized had their dc fork on enduro bike like 20y ago - was shit
  • 4 2
 I´m sure just running the fork without upper crown would sort out all of it´s issues, right?
  • 5 0
 My E150 fork is still holding up fine, the oil seals are more of a suggestion after 13 years but it still boings, the knobs still do things, still has distinctly different high and low speed compression. I mean it’s no grip damper debonair fork with triple the airspring volume of that little cartridge in the E150, but it definitely works. And it’s stiff, god is it stiff, 25mm axle was ahead of its time
  • 4 3
 Geometry aside, this bike feels like a throwback to the early 2000's and looks more like a test mule than a production bike.
  • 1 0
 @seb-stott how much shorter (axle-crown) is the MORC'd fork than a regular single crown 170mm Fork?
  • 1 0
 That dual crown Fox 36 fork looks Rad. Really hope Fox can mass produce it!
  • 9 8
 Built like a tank and designed to last. Unlike a plastic bike.
  • 8 3
 Did carbon touch you when you were a child?
  • 3 3
 @bishopsmike: Vigorously
  • 1 0
 The only acceptable question is: how does it compare to the Grim Donut?
  • 1 0
 No Moar Longer size? A missed opportunity.
  • 1 0
 Nice CNC work and insanely burly looking welds!
  • 2 3
 Why don't buy a proper downhill bike and just push it uphill? It will be more effective on the descents and less tiring on the climbs.
  • 1 0
 Is this about Nicolai or EXT Storia
  • 1 1
 One step closer to the grim doughnut. It’s mountain biking destiny.
  • 1 1
 That's Grim Donut future proofing...
  • 1 0
 Damn nice bikko
  • 1 4
 Does this have a 500wh or 700wh battery? I can't see where the motor is either so fairplay they've done a great job of integration here!

Oh, wait, hang on, this ISN'T an eBike?!
  • 1 0
 If I had the money..
  • 4 4
 No water bottle mount
  • 8 9
 at least you don't have to look at it while you ride it
  • 1 0
 Thats the first thing that came to my mind, man!
  • 1 3
 "...Geometron G1 is Designed to Be Future-Proof & Adapatable..." Yeah I know but its soooo buttugly!! Urghhh.
  • 1 2
 Chunko gang ftw.
Below threshold threads are hidden

Post a Comment



Copyright © 2000 - 2021. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv65 0.035556
Mobile Version of Website