Giant are a huge company. Not only do they make bikes for some brands you’ve doubtless heard of, as well as ones you haven’t, they are also busy increasing their product range. In fact, in recent years, we’ve seen a huge push in this regard. This is maybe slightly more noticeable on the road cycling side of our sport, where just as recently as a few years ago things like Giant's own brand helmets and shoes began to be featured with their World Tour team.
But make no mistake, Giant is moving this way in mountain biking, too. Tools, helmets and shoes are now not only part of the range, but seem to be part of a deliberate and whole-hearted attempt to challenge companies like Trek and Specialized, who are not only bike manufacturers but seem to cover every single eventuality and need a mountain biker might face.
Giant Pinner Pro Details
• A380 aluminum platform
• Concave surface (18.3 - 16.2mm)
• Chromoly steel spindle
• Sealed cartridge bearing
• Weight: 455g claimed, 462g actual
• Size: 121x110mm
• Contact Surface: 115mm x 110mm
• $115 USD
• Pinner Pro, Elite, and Comp models available
I’ve had the Pinner Pro pedals on test over this brutally cold winter. Giant have made pedals in recent years but, in my experience, sometimes they lacked that premium feel and often struggled to achieve any real foothold in a competitive aftermarket, where it seems that excellent pedals come two to the dozen. But how did these pedals fare? And what do they offer to begin with?
The pedals have a large 121x110mm platform, which is ever so slightly concave. The leading and trailing edge have a height of 18.3mm and the center measures 16.2mm. There are ten easily replaceable hex pins per side that measure 4mm out of the pedal. I really like this style of pin. Yes, it might mean you have a slightly more angular-looking pedal, but having the Allen key interface on the backside of the pin, and out of harm's way, is something I really like. I only tend to replace pins when I’ve damaged them and by that point the small, often 2mm interface might well have been warped and bent beyond all recognition.
The pedal is an A380 aluminum and has a chromoly spindle running through it and sealed bearings inside. To access the internals of the pedal one uses a Torx key that is housed within the cage. This isn’t ideal and I’d much rather they used an Allen key interface. You need to either have a micro ratchet and fittings or L-shaped keys, which not everyone has. For instance, I know lots of people that just have a multi-tool style set of Torx wrenches. The nut itself uses an opposite thread on the drive side pedal.
The pedals weigh an actual 462g for the set and retail for $115 USD. There is another pedal in the range, the Elite, which features a very similar shape and dimensions, as well as a chromoly axle but uses a nylon body. The Elite sells for just over $50 and weighs an actual 378g.On Trail Performance
The $115 dollar Pro pedals are incredibly grippy and have become my go-to pedal. Although they might be ever so slightly heavier than some options (for instance, the Crankbrothers Stamp 7s are around 375g) this doesn’t concern me, and I don’t believe it should matter to the kind of person that wants a big, large pedal with as much grip as possible.
The large platform, which has a 115x110mm contact area, did a fantastic job of holding my feet securely while also blending in comfort.
I’ve done some long, all-out-slog-out climbs on the pedals in a variety of shoes and not have any issues with hot spots or irritation. I’ve used different brands of shoes, too. On the class-leading Stealth rubber of the Five Ten range the grip is fantastic. In another set of test shoes where the grip isn’t typically so good, the Pinner Pros go a long way to save the shoe’s blushes.
I like this style of the slightly concave pedal. Previously I’ve resorted to going to hardware stores and buying 12 or even 14mm long grub screws to try and increase the grip of my pedals. This is great until your foot slips and you remark quietly to yourself that you wish you hadn’t bothered, although your language at the time might have been a little more colorful.Reliability
I installed these pedals on my bike in the autumn, and have been running them across various bikes for the interim. Admittedly, we did see a lot of snowfall and freezing temperatures for some weeks which curtailed riding in Squamish. Despite this, I would say I’ve put some decent miles on these pedals so far.
It’s also worth noting that I am somebody that potentially washes their bike too much. If I ride, I clean. I’m not particularly sympathetic with the hose, either. In that time the pedals have stayed creak and play free. There was a small rumble coming from the non-driveside pedal, but a quick regrease of the axle remedied this.
My pedals and rear mech are in a sorry state, currently, and it’s a testament to some of the faster, rougher enduro tracks that have opened up recently around town. As you can see by the state of the pedals, they’ve definitely made contact with the ground at various times but haven’t suffered any bending in the axle. I don’t know how much shape plays its part in deflecting impacts, and it’s hard to conclusively prove. There is of course an argument that it will glance rocks better - and that’s something I can see working.
Grip and comfort+
Reasonably priced - not cheap, but reasonable+
Pins are easy to replace+
Seem to withstand abuse well
Could be easier to access internals-
Developed a slight rumbling noise in one pedal over winter
|The Pinner Pro, in some ways, typifies Giant. They offer a good value and it's easy to see what you’re getting. Yes, they are cheaper pedals out there but this Pro manages to offer a good bang for your buck while not reaching the dizzying prices of some other brands.|
The grip levels are fantastic, the looks are clean and simple. If you don’t care about weight and are looking for a no-nonsense aggressive flat pedal then the Pinner Pro would be a great choice.
It worked exactly like that with the recent one, I think it was PNW or something.
 giant's website doesn't provide a side shot either. No luck with google image search. I'm saying concave my arse.
As expected, not concave. But at least they're not convex either like some others, just flat.
I think marge88 has a good suggestion for the future, put a ruler across the pedal to illustrate any curvature.
@henryquinney I get it you used calipers but the finned part doesn't really obscure anything. Your foot would rest on it so that's where it should be measured. Are you saying that part sticks out taller than the axle bulge? And by "a few mil"? It kinda looks like they match here: www.pinkbike.com/photo/22046706. Maybe you meant a few hundredths of a mil? BTW, a few mil of concavity wouldn't be "only", that would be a lot.
I'm gonna take a wild guess that you measured 18.3mm on the raised front/back and 16.2mm in the lowest part ignoring the axle bulge and the middle raised bit?
Or would you rather choose Giant?
My girlfriend has Deity Deftraps, composite, with her size 8(W) Freeriders and she thinks they have almost too much grip. I think these were $55 and they have lots of colors. I've heard Kona Wah Wahs are great if you have big feet and don't want to spend a ton of money, usually under $60 for the composite version.
Hopefully the actual manufacturer will start their own brand called "Your name here" they only sell stems and pedals that look oddly like every other pedal and stem on the market.
There is now a magnesium version that costs an extra $20 and drops 80g.
As for the pedals, I’m sure they’re decent. Probably made by Wellgo.
Shame on the writer, shame on the copy editor.
The other thing is that when you bend a pedal axle, you BEND a pedal axle, it's a particular kind/scale of impact that does it. Doesn't really matter what pedal you're on... If you've done it , it's generally for a pretty good reason.
I have skepticism. A tiny bit of doubt that the degree of efficiency reduction is all that noticeable. heh