German brand Magura has been in the brake business for quite some time - over a hundred years with motorsports - and while they may not hold the same chunk of OEM sales that the red and blue "S" brands share, they're certainly a force to be reckoned with. Back in the day, if you rode trials or just wanted some powerful, rim crushing (literally) stoppers, the Magura's HS-33 was the best option out there.
Fast forward a few decades and they've had some successes, but also some other brakes that weren't quite up to par, although their newest iterations of stoppers have received some big updates to remedy problems of years past.
The MT7 Pro is Magura's four-piston, heavy-duty brake, engineered for the crowd that needs the most power; enduro, downhill racing, etc. The brake is light at 255-grams, has a tool-free reach adjust, lever sweep adjustment, different levers to pick from, and pad options to help riders dial in a variety of looks and feels.
MT7 Pro Details• Intended use: enduro / trail / downhill
• 4-piston calipers
• Mineral oil system
• Customizable levers
• Carbon fiber lever assembly
• Weight: 253g (w/o rotors, adapters)
• MSRP: $239 USD
•
www.magura.com All of these options are welcome as the MT7 Pro is a premium product, and it comes with a premium price of $239 USD per wheel for the brake assembly. Rotors and adapters are sold separately so add on $80-$100 or so more to complete the package as rotors are $33 each for the HC level and adapters are $13.
The MT7 with the HC-3 lever. Lots of adjustments and a substantial hook.
The entire brake system is produced in Magura's factory in Germany. To keep QC tight, the entire building is sealed and pressurized so that there's no chance of dust or dirt getting in and contaminating the products.
If the price of the MT7 is a little too much to stomach, the MT5 brake is about half the price and a viable option for a lot of riders. Some people may have noticed a number of Magura's athletes running this brake. The big differences are that it doesn't have as many tool-free adjustments and the lever material is a thicker carbon and the blade is also a bit heftier. The brake has a slightly different feel that some athletes prefer, but it's the same system as the MT7 when it comes to the guts.
Details and InstallationThe MT7 Pro is Magura's flagship enduro, downhill, and trail brake, and it sports a composite master cylinder made out of Magura's "Carbotexture SL" material as well as a new "one-finger design" lever. The lever pictured here (and that I tested) was the ultra-adjustable HC-3 option, although I did spend time using the stock alloy HC-1 lever as well.
There's a four-piston caliper down at the bottom, and while other four-pot stoppers use a single pad on each side, the MT7 Pro's get four separate pads. The reasoning behind this, according to Magura, is that the smaller pads better dissipate heat than larger pads, and also that it saves a minute amount of weight.
A myriad of lever options as well as little color discs allow for some functional tuning and fashion. There are even colored faces for handlebar clamps if you're into that.
All of the brakes come with the same length hose no matter whether you need a front or rear, which means you're going to have to cut down the brake lines. With internal routing on most new bikes these days, that's a pretty common job, though. Fortunately, if you're careful, you likely don't need to do a full bleed or even anything at all, but if you do, the process is simple and painless.
I think that a lot of people, including myself, have historically pinned Magura's brakes as "difficult to work with" or "hard to bleed" and discounted them at that, especially at their premium price-point. The old bladders trapped air in funny places and getting a good bleed was nearly impossible. However, there have been some major updates and Magura now has a pretty damn competitive product that you can easily and successfully bleed.
As far as bleeding goes, Magura uses their own mineral oil. They say they like it because it doesn't attract moisture (DOT fluid can absorb it) which can cause degradation in performance over time. They also don't have to submit it for testing, therefore they can create and use a fluid that works best with the specific seals in their system.
The levers can be flipped to run on either side, so if your buddy from down under is visiting, needs to borrow a bike, and you don't live in the UK, you can quickly swap things around to goofy style and get on with your day without wasting time at the bike shop or defaulting to drinking.
Bleeding has become far more simple. There's an improved bladder that helps to keep air bubbles from hiding out where they don't need to be.
If you're attaching the lever body to your handlebar, you'll notice that the bolts have a much more open pitched thread than many others that you see on a bike. The force that you use on this clamp is lower than many other brakes that require equal torque on the top and bottom of the faceplate and an equal gap. You tighten the top of the faceplate completely to the lever body before snugging up the bottom. It's engineered to hold the brake in place while you're riding and then allow it to rotate in the event of the crash, preventing the brake from, er, breaking.
I tested this out with a nasty crash a few weeks back. Aside from some inevitable scratches on the bike, brakes, and myself, all was surprisingly just fine. I moved the lever back into place and rolled on down the hill.
Swapping levers is a simple process.
Changing the FeelOne of the things that make the MT7 stand out a bit from some other brakes is the ability to fine-tune their feel with different levers and pad compounds. When you're spending upwards of a couple car payments on a set of bicycle brakes, it makes sense for them to be able to be dialed in by the rider.
Riders have multiple different levers to choose from, including short or long, aluminum or carbon options, as well as the Danny McAskill's HC-3 lever that I've been running. You can also pick up
Loic Bruni's signature lever. Longer levers obviously offer more leverage and a bit softer feel, more similar to a SRAM brake while the shorter options will be more sensitive, similar to the blue S.
In addition to those options, there are three different pad compounds riders can choose from. All of the pads are organic (resin). Magura believes these work well and also keep the temperatures lower and minimize heat transfer from the rotor to the caliper and that should help performance stay more consistent. There is a "performance" level pad that comes stock on the bike, a "race" level pad that produces more friction and bite - think more like a Shimano brake feels, and then a "comfort" level pad with the least amount of bite. The comfort pads are also the quietest since as you increase friction, there's inherently more noise associated. The performance and race level pads all utilize one pad for each piston (four per caliper) and the comfort pads are one long piece, similar to what you see in a Guide or Code brake. If you want a metallic pad, Magura doesn't make one and you're going to have to go to an aftermarket option if that's the route you choose.
Besides pads and levers, there are also colored discs that can be swapped out to keep your fashion game tight, as well as three different rotor styles to choose from. HC rotors like the ones tested and reviewed here, Centerlock rotors, and a lighter weight SL rotor. Magura has their own Matchmaker style clamps to keep the bars clutter free and you have the option of running things inboard or outboard, depending on your preference.
PerformanceI worked with Magura's man on the ground and pro athlete Eric Porter to get my set of MT7's installed and dialed-in initially. The process was simple and painless, and if it wasn't for us tearing everything apart to see exactly how things worked it would have taken me, having never installed this brake before, maybe a half hour to put the set on and be pedaling to the trails.
I first rode the brakes with the stock lever, which is a bit longer than the Danny McAskill HC-3 I swapped over to. With the stock lever, there's a firm engagement and an excellent amount of modulation - I'd say if falls right between a SRAM Guide and a Shimano XT when it comes to modulation. The thing that stood out to me, however, was the consistency in the feel, firmness of the engagement, and noticeable quality of the system overall.
In switching to the HC-3 lever with a bit more of a hook on the end, and more adjustability, there's a quicker and stronger engagement, but still ample amounts of modulation.
After three months of riding the brakes on the trail, I haven't had to touch a thing. The MT7's are far and away one of the most consistent brake systems I've been on. Whether it's touch and go slow-speed technical riding or high-speed sustained descending, the consistency is right there and the same as it was the first day.
180mm Storm HC rotors front and back. I've found them coupled with the performance level pads consistent for how and where I'm riding.
I've been using the stock, performance-level pads and 180mm rotors for the entire time I've been testing and haven't felt the need for more power in any way. If I were riding the bike park all day, I would consider throwing on bigger rotors, but for all-around and riding just about anywhere, for a rider that's my weight, the 180's are more than enough.
I can't find anything to truly complain about with the MT7's. They are one of the best options for a high-end brake system on the market and a stark contrast to their predecessors. Very few things in our world of bikes are set-and-forget, but save having to swap out pads after a couple months of riding in garbage conditions, I haven't touched these brakes.
Pinkbike's Take | Magura's MT7 brakes are a top-tier product and they consistently provided top-level performance. Having the option to fine tune the feel of the brakes in multiple facets allows for a range of set-ups to accommodate different riders and conditions. If I was in need of new brakes the MT7's would be at the top of my list.— Daniel Sapp |
I've always felt that Magura doesn't get the love it deserves.
So when the MT-series came out, and I was building a bike, I got a set (I don't remember what number). They sucked. Hard. Minimal power, always seemed like they needed a bleed but either I wasn't doing it right or it wasn't helping, bite point was in the wrong place and no way to adjust it... There was a recall, I sent them back. They came back better (as in they didn't feel like they needed a bleed) but still sucky in power and bite point.
While they were resolving that suckieness, Shimano came along and made really good brakes that were a lot cheaper. I haven't really looked back since then. These and the MT5s seem pretty good, except cost. They might be the best brakes in the world, even if that's true (I doubt it), it's not by a huge margin; there are other really good brakes for a lot less money.
When was the recall?
enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy
Anders of you get the MT7 Brakel pass the inkt different with the MT7's are the levers.
I'v got the MT5's now for 2,5years and in the beginning I was sceptical.
But now I have them dialed in and they are perfect.
What I found is that they need a thicker disc to operate properly. Just Google it.
If the disc wears ore the pads then you get a wandering brakepoint and los of power.
So keep your pads new and your golden!
Point of the story was that even if they have their shit straight now, they had a real low period. And the timing of that was horrible for them, as others were figuring out how to make good brakes right when Magura forgot.
But replacing them with a break from Hope... I'd rather use no breaks at all - with the same breaking power!
30 times on 10 different platforms giving the illusion of actual problems, also only 1% of the problems are actually because the brakes had a problem, the other 99% is because magura didn't idiot proof them
The lever is an opinion so i can't really argue against that
I laughed my ass of as I compared prices , because I bought last year the Trickstuff Direttissima pumps to pair them with the mt7 calipers. Why? They are cheaper or was cheaper back then compared to mt7 with hc3. Let that sink in, for a brake who is that expensive I can't have a thread who is just out of plastic.
Because it is plastic trash in crashes it prone to total failure.
Try crashing with that Direttissima, scratches and that's it, you carbon bars will snap before this will give up. The cheapest Shimano is more robust then this plastic abomination. Yes, my pumps can be pushed up or down with moderate force.
Well I never snapped a front triangle but I don't denie that it could happen.
If you never hit your brakes nothing will happen on that crash. You can't denie that anything else will withstand more force then the Magura pumps.
Like I also said, replace them with cheap 19€ Shimano zee pumps. That was the way I was going after I send one broken Mt7 back and they needed 90€ to replace them. No way I pay that much for a replacement if I also get a better lever because I had the stock Maguras two finger lever's.
There is also a myth , maybe it is real but the Shigura like we call it here is more powerful then the original Mt7
It's a single pivot with no linkages and the shimano lever is shorter, also even if there is a difference it's only slight and won't really be noticeable since the magura lever is nearly double the size. So unless it has some kind of magical piston that presses in with 10x force, it shouldn't be stronger...
The only problem i had with maguras was that i put the pin through the brake incorrectly and there was some play on the right but not the left, although it was a really easy fix, (just pull the pin out and put it back in)
Second: yes i know we're talking about hydraulics, is there something wrong with that? Am i missing something? I don't get what you're saying
Speaking of which trick stuff uses Binol?? My first requirement of a brake is that it doesn’t use DOT. Never heard of this binol stuff but it sounds pretty interesting.
The thing about bionol is that it boils later and being really good viscosity.
Why does it matter? It is more easy to blead brakes because air can get better out with this viscosity.
Apparently also good enough for your salad.
i have been riding it for several years now because i get great discounts on it. if maintained on a really regular basis, it works really well and powerful, thats why i stick to them.
but if i would have to pay the original price for the brakes and spare parts, i would be a poor man.
the lever body is nothing but plastic, and the bladders start leaking really easy. the link between lever body and lever gets loose after a few months of riding. the lever screws to adjust the width are also lose. you have to put glue on them, otherwise you have to adjust the width after every run.
i have to replace the pads really often, and with the 4-pad system, the pads wear out really unsymmetric.
when bleeding the brake (especially with the "quick and dirty" method) according to the official tutorial videos of magura, you destroy the bladder of the lever body immediately.
if you handle the brake with care and do not mind maintenance really often, it is one of the most powerful brakes i have ever ridden. thats why i stick to it.
but for this huge price, i would definitely recommend the saint to everyone.
it is just too much plastic on this brake
+Excellent power
+Excellent modulation
-Finicky bleeding
-Quick pad wear (i'm trying some 3rd party pads now)
-Loose levers after a bit
I got mine at over half off so worth it still, but would get something else at full price.
For comparison:
MT7 front and rear + 203mm HC front and 180mm HC rear rotors = 727.75 CAD shipped from Jenson USA
MT7 front and rear + 203mm HC front and 180mm HC rear rotors = 319 EURO (483.00 CAD) shipped from bike-discount.de.
Almost 250 saved for the EXACT same thing. Same thing for the MT5, $282 shipped for pair of MT5 and HC rotors vs Jenson asking $446.00.
www.bike24.de/1.php?content=8;product=233467;menu=1000,2,15,117;page=4
vs.
www.bike24.de/1.php?content=8;product=283668;menu=1000,2,15,117;page=4
(After those are added it probably has better deceleration then the direttissima with shimano pads, although it'll have a little more fade because they're metallic or semi metallic i can't remember)
Also you've got the change in bite/reach to compensate for pad wear.
If you ride mostly trail, and are looking for a more affordable option, the MT-Trail Sport is worth a hard look.
I would compare overall stopping power to guide RSCs... I prefer the feel, modulation, and design of magura; but that’s personal taste. I’ve tested them on long descents such as Bennet Gap / Black mtn and for my 150lb self they’ve been plenty powerful with zero fade.
I can also attest to the lever clamps rotating in a crash. I’ve twristed these many times and still no damage to report.
—
Does the MT5 come with the HC1 blade for 2019? The new levers are great.
One thing I'd like to see more companies do is eliminate the bleed screw that you have to remove and re-install and switch to a "twist-to-close" type option (I believe SRAM does this now on their calipers), but for both the caliper and lever. This way if you pressurize the system to get a bit more fluid in, it will stay in there.
As someone who likes their brakes to feel the same all the time to my personal liking, I seem that I always lose a bit too much fluid during my transfer of the removal of the syringe to the install of the bleed screw. It's that amount that I lose that I'd like to keep in the system as I can always get my bleeds to feel great while the syringe is still attached.
These M7's or the Hayes Dominion next.
Another tip: The original pads wear down fast. Superstar Components make metallic brake pads that are powerful on Magura rotors, and last ages.
Olives and fittings are interchangeable, both Shimano and Magura work. I use Shimano because my superstition telks me to use the same brand as the lever's
A biggie to keep in mind with shimano levers tho: the o-rings are real divas. never pressure wash or even hose them nor use brake cleaner on them. Following that they'll last
Also these look incredible too so it's just less color options (although you could paint the little plastic rings and get a custom cover if you want)
Many happy Magura brakes thereafter.
I am currently testing the new 4 piston shimano deore and they just deliver for just above 100€ why do others not get the job done. Shimano is the king of disc brakes imo.
1) Bite point is extremely consistent. I've never experienced that in a brake before.
2) Organic pads had me concerned, but Magura organics aren't the same as other brands. I wouldn't hesitate using these organics at Whistler; they last a long, long time and modulate very well.
3) For North Shore steeps, 180mm front rotor is too small in my experience. Go 203mm for more power. I found the 180mm HC rotor warbles when pulling really hard, so take the extra power of a 203 and have a quiet ride.
4) Follow the bleed procedure. It works well. Way easier than doing a reverb!
5) I like the thicker rotors magura uses. Feels less prone to warping.
Shop around as these brakes are very affordable.
Gobs of braking power/ modulation...
I’ll keep swapping em out on new bikes till these are cooked and get some more..
Sram and Shimano have come a long way, by no means are they bad brakes. Just Magura is still the best.
Bleeding has never been a problem for me. Feel if you have issues with brake bleeds you should let your shop take care of it.
A friend of mine got the MT7 just recently and complains about a lack of stopping power as well. Especially in the back despite a 200 mm disc.
I reckon it is, like with everything else, very much down to how you define a good break. I hear 2 different opinions. Either extremely good or extremely bad.
I am happy with my Shimano XT breaks...Solid and reliable
anyone in the UK reading this knows they'd need aftermarket sintered pads for the winter...
The Magura pistons are self-centering IIRC so you usually just need to press the pistons back flush with the caliper, center the caliper over the rotor, pump up to grab the rotor, and tighten the caliper bolts when changing pads or needing to adjust things in my experience with multiple Magura sets over the years.
I have a spare set of new saints ready to go, but am more likely to just swap the brake lever out to make shiguras if the levers leak or snap. They dont feel very robust. Carbontech = plastic as far as im concerned.
And despite being the most hamfisted person I know Ive never stripped or broken the bleed screw!
This line is really getting annoying since it seems to be in every single brake review that uses mineral oil. DOT fluid absorbs moisture because it is explicitly required by the DOT standard to do so. This is to avoid corrosion and water pockets that can flash to steam under heavy loading.
The debate between DOT and mineral oil will rage on, but pretending the hygroscopic nature of DOT fluid is a failing, rather than a requirement doesn't add anything.
But for now, I will resist the temptation of buying a new set. I'll stick to Shimano for the time being. They never (or hardly) ever fail me and are a no brainer in set up and maintenance.
One of the lines punctured, the reach adjustment pin fell out and they required constant bleeding. Normally not that big of a deal but No shops around me carried parts. The reach adjustment pin cost me over $60 to replace. My options for parts were ordering on ebay...
I sold the set I had last year. For the price of a single brand new Magura MT7 I ended up getting a Pair of Shimano Zee's. Parts are cheap and plentiful.
150cm in the front or did you beef that up as well.
"The Yeti SB130 is designed to be compatible with both air and coil sprung shocks."
Am I the only one ?
It’s the best option in the stopping game
Pad wear...now that’s a serious financial burden to commit to on MT7 Calipers.
Sticky pistons( all four piston calipers have this issue)
Expensive.
Does your local shop carry pads?
Sure you cracked the master cylinder but was it overtightened or was it an actual problem with the product?
At least in reviews if they brake something they give an explanation, whether it was their fault or the company's
Lots of info at ridemonkey.bikemag.com/threads/frankenbrakes-and-brake-improvement-discussion.274164 if you are interested in the topic
IIRC the recipe is this:
Shimano lever
Shimano olive at lever
Shimano olive cover/insert at lever
Magura hose
Magura caliper
Shimano or Magura mineral oil, Pentosin mineral oil (used on BMW and Audi vehicle brakes, usually much less expensive than Shimano or Magura oil)
Profit - $$$
HS-33 were just awful! They were way, and I mean wayyyy, weaker in comparison to set of proper V-brakes. The only one thing with more complicated brake pad adjustment were cantilevers.
So Magura: bring Gustaw M back! :]
That’s why I prefer DOT and won’t run mineral oil.
singletrackworld.com/2018/06/review-brake-force-ones-2nd-generation-h20-disc-brakes-are-filled-with-water
Apparently power can go beyond what the popular common disc brakes can deliver. The tester didn't mention Trickstuff, but he did mention Magura MT7. If you wear pads considerably within a single ride, you're going to notice and you'll need to adjust them. But it seems to me that if you wear your pads slower, it would be something you'd do before your ride and leave it like that.
And indeed, they're far from cheap!
And bleeding the brakes, replacing the calipers/levers and even aligning the rotor to caliper by surfacing the brake adapters does NOT improve the brakes.
The brakes work for about one month when brand new and then start to go bad really fast and there is nothing you can do to fix them. I was a mechanic at a race bike shop and swapped out every intense bike that came with MT7s with other brands because the MT7s went bad. And demanded that intense change their brake brand on all intense bikes which they did.
Nobody in the bike park used these brakes. They have a terrible reputation. Nobody in the race world uses these brakes because they are too unreliable. If you don't believe me go ahead and buy some and you will see for yourself!