Review: NS Snabb 150 Plus 1

Aug 20, 2018
by Alex Evans  
NS has certainly taken some important steps forward since starting out in 2004. The niche dirt jump brand's range has expanded, their bikes have become sleeker, and they certainly offer an interesting and less common alternative to the more mainstream options on the market. The Snabb has been around since 2015, and while its looks haven't changed a huge amount, the number of different Snabb models has doubled with the addition of carbon fiber, short and long travel, and 29-inch wheeled versions.

There are eight complete models in the Snabb lineup. The top-of-the-line Snabb 160 C1 and C2 bikes are carbon 27.5"-wheeled halo models, but the 27.5" version comes in two aluminum models, too.
NS Snabb 150 Plus 1

Intended use: all-mountain / enduro
Travel: 150mm rear / 160mm front
Wheel size: 29"
Frame construction: alloy
Head angle: 65.5º
Chainstay length: 440mm
Sizes: S, M, L
Weight: 31.74 lb (14.4 kg) - size large, w/o pedals
Price: €4199 / £3700 / US $4199 plus shipping approx. €52 Frame only: €2299
More info: www.ns-bikes.com

The 29er Snabbs come in two travel options, one with 130mm and one with 150mm but both 29er variants are made from 6061-T6 aluminum tubes. We've been spending time on the 150 Plus 1 bike that retails for €4199 and is garnished with a host of high-performing kit like Fox's 36 EVOL Float FIT4 3-position lever fork and DPX2 shock, Shimano's XT 11-speed drivetrain and KS' Lev Integra dropper post.


bigquotesThe Snabb's 29er model accelerates quickly and feels like a Formula One car at speed. Just make sure you've got your wits about you if you stray off-line or go plowing into tighter sections of trail.Alex Evans







Fox s DPX2 EVOL shock has a small but functioning range of adjustments and with added air volume reducers provided plenty of bottom-out resistance. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography


Construction and Features

NS claims that the Snabb is a 'mission accomplished' bike on all fronts with sorted geometry, great performance and reliability coupled with fine handling. Obviously, a lot of thought and attention to detail have gone into this bike – the one-piece rocker arm that actuates the shock looks mighty sleek, and the trunnion mount does away with the traditional bulk of eyelet bushings. All of the frame's bearings are hidden behind alloy dust covers that double up as the fastening bolts.

The front and rear axles run Boost spacing (15X110mm front and 12X148mm rear), and while the rear axle requires two Allen keys to remove, the front uses Fox's standard 15mm QR set up. The bike's geometry is about as modern as it comes with sizing that is true to its descriptor; a large bike will fit large people. NS has sensibly chosen to run a threaded 73mm BB with ISCG-05 chain guide mounts, and the rear brake is attached using a post mount.

Cable routing is either external or internal, and there are bosses and screws (but no cable mounts) supplied with the bike to attach externally routed cables. The test bike came with the cables routed internally, but given a choice I'd prefer to run my cables on the outside, and it's great that this option is there. There's also room and bosses for a water bottle cage. NS do recommend only running up to a 32t chainring on the bike and claim that a 2.3" wide tire is the largest 29er rubber that'll fit the frame. If you want to go bigger, there's room for a 27.5+ 3.0"tire.


There s plenty of tyre clearance for 29 or 275 wheels and rubber. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
There's plenty of tire clearance for 29 or 27.5+ wheels and rubber.
Rejoice Yes those are bottle cage mounts. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
Rejoice! Yes, those are bottle cage mounts.


PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
The headtube is beefy and fairly stout so you can run a low front end should you wish.
PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
That one-piece rocker arm keeps the rear end stiff and in check.


Geometry & Sizing

NS Snabb 150 Plus 1 Geometry

The Snabb's geometry numbers aren't Pole-level radical, but they're a welcome, relaxed and modern set of figures that tick all of the boxes people seem to be looking for from a long travel, do-it-all 29er. The large (NS' biggest size for the Snabb) has a reach of 480mm and between each size of Snabb, the reach figure increases by 25mm increments from 430 for the small. The large Snabb's front center (with the stock 160mm travel fork) is 816mm, while all sizes of the bike get a 440mm long chainstay, which puts the wheelbase at 1196mm (S), 1225mm (M) and 1256mm (L) and is more than long enough for a bike of this nature.

Other important numbers include a fairly slack 65.5-degree head angle, an effective seat tube angle of 75.7-degrees, which is relatively steep, and a BB drop of 35mm. Combined, these figures put this bike at the sharp end of aggressive.


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Suspension Design

The Snabb range all use the same suspension layout. A short rocker link attaches to the seat tube and seatstays which drives the shock. This system is a Horst Link design, where the rear axle is attached to the seatstay, rather than the chainstay. Uncompressed, the bike's anti-squat is at 124% (with a 32-tooth chainring and in gear number 1 on the 46-tooth cassette), but at around 30% sag (or 45mm into the bike's travel) the figure is approximately 103.5%. This means, in theory at least, the bike will, to a small degree, resist 'squatting' or compression forces when pedaling. After that, the anti-squat drops off in a linear fashion, but if you're that deep into the travel it shouldn't matter anyway.

The guts of the bike - the low pivot placement and high rear axle gives this bike an immediately-forward axle path. This does hinder the bikes ability to swallow up the bumps. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
The guts of the bike - the Snabb's Horst Link suspension layout delivers 150mm of travel.

The bike is progressive to around 115mm of travel (approximately 76% of the bike's travel), after which it becomes slightly regressive, a suspension curve that's designed to pair well with an air shock.

The trunnion-mounted Fox Performance DPX2 3-position adjustment air shock offers reasonable levels of adjustability with relatively little effort and strikes a good compromise between performance and economy.


NS Snabb anti-squat 32t c ring 46t cassette. Credit NS Bikes
NS Bikes Snabb 150 Plus 1 29er Leverage Ratio


Specifications

Specifications
Price $4880
Travel 150mm
Rear Shock Fox Performance DPX2 205 x 50mm
Fork Fox Performance 36 Float GRIP, 160mm
Headset GW integrated tapered IS42/52, sealed
Cassette Shimano CS M7000 11-46t 11spd
Crankarms Race Face Aeffect 170mm, 32t
Bottom Bracket Race Face BSA
Rear Derailleur Shimano XT M8000 11spd
Chain Shimano
Shifter Pods Shimano SLX 11spd
Handlebar NS Evidence Light, 780mm
Stem NS Quantum Lite 31.8, 45mm
Grips NS Hold Fast
Brakes SRAM Guide R
Hubs NS Rotary
Rim NS Enigma Roll
Tires Schwalbe Magic Mary / Nobbc Nic
Seat Octane One Crit
Seatpost KS Lev Integra



PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography













Test Bike Setup

I initially pumped up the bike's Fox 36 EVOL Float FIT4 3-position lever to 75 psi, giving me 30% sag. The bike was delivered with a 10cc orange volume reducer in the fork and I added 16 clicks of rebound damping from fully open, and 20-degrees of dial turn of compression damping from fully open. In the shock, I initially ran 200 psi with the stock, white, 0.4 inch volume reducer. This, once again, gave me around 30% of sag. I added 11 clicks of rebound damping from fully open and left the compression dial in the open setting while descending and climbing.

After my first ride on the bike, it became apparent that this setup wasn't hard enough to support my weight in turns, off drops, and through compressions. The bike's suspension felt lack-luster on medium to hard compressions and was reluctant to support me in the turns or under braking. It was clear I needed to increase the air pressure in both the fork and shock, given the limited compression adjustment on offer.

GT Fury 2019
Alex Evans
Location: Bath, United Kingdom
Age: 31
Height: 178 cm
Inseam: 82 cm
Weight: 74 kg
Industry affiliations / sponsors: None
After incrementally adding more air, I ended up with 105 psi in the fork and 220 psi in the rear shock with the same compression settings and volume spacers but slightly more rebound damping at both ends (+2 clicks). Everyone I spoke to suggested that these settings were abnormally high, and although the bike wasn't absorbing small bumps particularly well, its mid-stroke and bottom out resistance were more akin to my preferences. After some more fettling, I added a further two 10cc orange volume spacers to the fork (a total of 30cc of volume spacers), removed 10 psi and ended up running 95 psi of air pressure, with the same compression and rebound settings. I also doubled the size of the volume spacer in the shock to the blue 0.86 inch spacer and reduced the air pressure to 180 psi while retaining the same rebound settings.

It is certainly worth noting that I do like my bikes to be set up on the stiffer and more aggressive end of the spectrum. I am comfortable sacrificing some small bump compliance for improved mid-stroke and bottom out support and am aware of how this can affect a bike's feel. However, my setup preferences are universal and consistent for all bikes that I ride, giving me a good baseline for performance comparisons.

I've been riding this bike on a mix of trails – from South Wales' finest steep, loamy and rooty wonders to manmade trail center loops, the UK's famous BikePark Wales and a short but sweet stint in Morzine. The conditions have been a mixed bag as well, ranging from total slop to hero dirt and, more recently, dry and dusty hardpack.



On climbs the Snabb s anti-squat and leverage ratio keep the bike well supported. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
On climbs, the Snabb's suspension design kept the bike well supported.


Climbing

There's no denying the 29-inch wheels are easier on the climbs compared to smaller hoops, whether that's picking your way up a technical ascent or blasting up a fire road. Thanks to the larger outer circumference, they roll over obstacles better and maintain their speed. When climbing, the Snabb 29er benefits from the bigger wheels' characteristics because the rest of the bike is so downhill-orientated.

That said, the long front center, average chainstays, and slack head angle don't hinder uphill progress. When climbing up fire roads to the trailhead you barely notice the bike's downhill-orientated geometry, although the relatively steep seat angle is entirely welcome on any climb. On more technical, slower climbs things can become concentration-intensive. At very slow speeds the length of the bike means it becomes unwieldy if the trail you're riding needs precise wheel placement around stumps or rocks, but switchbacks aren't a problem as long as you're committed to powering around them rather than jackknifing or doing a three-point turn.

If you pedal like a hamfisted baboon then there's not enough support in the Snabb's suspension design to stop bob, but that really shouldn't come as a surprise. In reality, the rear suspension goes relatively unnoticed when climbing – I left the shock in its open mode while ascending on and off-road and it didn't feel like my legs' power was being drained through the bike. If you're into making exceptionally swift climbing progress, flicking the shock's compression lever did all-but eliminate rear suspension movement on climbs and flat sections, but the ride quality, grip, and comfort suffered.

My main gripe with the Snabb's ability to climb lies in its gearing. Coming directly from a 27.5"-wheeled bike with SRAM's Eagle cassette and 32-tooth chainring, the Snabb's 46-32 tooth setup required some considerable soul-searching and teeth-gritting to make it up the steepest climbs that I'd normally breeze, although a cost-effective expander cog upgrade or a quick chainring swap would solve this problem. Although with the latter option, your overall (and therefore hardest gear) will be lower with a small front ring.

Overall the Snabb is a perfectly good performer on the climbs and I had no complaints about the bike's geometry on the hills, but an increased range of gears would have helped my legs on particularly steep ascents.


Mid-stroke and bottom out support are present and correct but this seems to be at the sacrifice of beginning stoke suppleness. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
Mid-stroke and bottom out support are present and correct.


Descending

Out on the trail and between my legs, the Snabb feels like a bit of a Jekyll and Hyde affair. Point it in the right direction, hit your lines with pristine accuracy and pump every backside and you're rewarded with masses of speed and ear-to-ear grins knowing you've nailed a section of trail and are riding at your best. The bike actively encourages you to really give it your all over any terrain. The geometry inspires confidence, especially at speed; the front center and chainstay lengths combine in a coherent and balanced package which means you're not constantly second-guessing what the bike is about to do when you're hurtling along flat out.

However, when the trails get rough, twisty, steep, or more nibbly some issues do rear their heads. When braking hard or hitting catch berms on steep trails the bike's fork had a considerable penchant to dive through the first 60% of its travel. Even after spending much longer than normal setting it up, I struggled to discover if a balance between small bump compliance, mid-stroke support and bottom out resistance exists.

The bike's front end felt best with way too much air, which in turn sacrificed small bump compliance, but it did mean the fork had the mid-stroke support that was missing with lower pressures and air volume reducers. Even adding more compression damping couldn't replicate the same confidence-inspiring feeling I got from higher pressures. I believe it would be fair to say that with the higher end Fox FIT GRIP2 4-way adjustable damper, as found on the 36 Factory fork, would have been much easier to adjust and set up to overcome these problems. You can upgrade the damper through Fox if you're looking for more performance.


PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography

Unfortunately, to balance out the fork's low sag levels I was forced to run the rear shock harder than I would normally have liked. While the rear suspension didn't feel like it was missing mid-stroke support or bottom out resistance when I was running more normal pressures, the bike's ride dynamic of having a hard fork and soft rear end didn't work well together. Once I'd settled on 180psi in the shock I found that rear wheel grip was more than acceptable on medium to big one-off hits and undulations, but trail chatter and small bump compliance wasn't as good as I hoped even considering the harder-than-usual spring rate. And, to be totally fair, this could be partly down to the bike's setup which could be controlled with more adjustable suspension or different shock tune. That said, the overriding feeling you get from the bike when crashing through rough and fast sections of trail is a slightly nervous unwillingness to iron out smaller bumps and a noticeable decelerating effect if you've not got your wits about you or aren't concentrating 100% on the trail.

To that end, the Snabb isn't a plow bike or a point and pray machine. You need to be totally attuned to the bike's feedback and hit your lines with laser-like accuracy and commitment, but when you do, you're rewarded with exhilarating speed. However, if you're tired or bumbling along the bike doesn't do much to compensate for a mediocre skill set and won't dish out speed served on a platter. If you do get off-line the world as you know it won't end, and it's unlikely you'll end up in a pile on the floor, but kiss goodbye to any hard-earned pace and conquer-all superman feelings the bike had teased you with just moments before. It's a bit of a shame because with the right suspension or custom tuned dampers bolted to the Snabb I'm sure that the bike's split personality could quite easily be reconciled into one hard-hitting and seriously fast EWS-winning (although not while I'm riding it) bike.





PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
NS Snabb 150 Plus 1
Norco 2018
Norco Range Carbon

How does it compare?

Right now, long travel 29ers seem to be the go-to ride for the hard-riding trail or enduro fanatic, and with good reason. But, just because bikes share wheel size and travel figures doesn't mean they'll ride the same way. If you compare the Snabb to Norco's Range carbon 29er you'll notice some similarities: 150mm of travel, 65.5-degree head angle, long wheelbases, reach figures and similar suspension designs. But, they behave like different beasts on the track.

The Range C2's large size comes up marginally smaller than the Snabb, but we're talking millimeters rather than centimeters, and despite the smaller numbers, Norco's bike doesn't feel more skittish or less stable than NS' offering.

On the trail, the main differences can be felt between the two bikes' suspension platforms. The Norco is eager to iron out bumps and forgive sloppy or lazy riding – speed does come easier to the Norco, but as soon as you're riding at full-chat and are 100% focused at the task in hand, the NS has the upper edge. The Range doesn't require a special code to unlock high speeds, though, and the tradeoff for this is that it feels decidedly inert.

If you're looking for a 29er that gets on with the job without making a fuss, maybe the Norco is a safer bet than the Snabb, but it's unlikely you'll feel as exhilarated or challenged by the ride.


The RaceFace cranks performed perfectly but the anodising finish couldn t withstand foot rub. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
The RaceFace cranks performed perfectly but the anodizing finish couldn't withstand foot rub.
KS Lev dropper preformed as expected and without fault while NS own-brand saddle is comfy enough on long climbs. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
KS' Lev dropper performed as expected and without fault, while NS' own-brand saddle is comfy enough on long climbs.


Technical Report

Schwalbe Magic Mary (F) and Nobby Nic (R): Equipped with a go-to combination of grippy Schwalbe rubber, the Snabb's tires offer impressive grip on all but the most extreme terrain. Out front, the Magic Mary lives up to its name – gripping on ground that would make other tire manufacturer's wince. The Nobby Nic does a great job of providing controlled braking and the profile of the side knobs mean they don't flex or distort too much on harder surfaces. The tire's casings are quite thin, and out of the box the Snabb comes set up with tubes. I've managed to puncture both the front and back, thanks to small, sharp rocks penetrating the tire's carcasses.

SRAM Guide R Brakes: Unfortunately SRAM's 180mm Guide brakes specced on the 29er Snabb didn't feel best-suited to this bikes' 'send it' attitude. Compared to their bigger sibling, they feel rather lack-luster and it strikes me as a strange move by NS to fit a trail orientated brake to a bike that is going to spend most of its time being ridden in anger downhill. That said, even after some torturously rotor-burning braking, their performance wasn't reduced, so the lack of power was, at least, consistent.

NS own-brand Bars, Stem, Grips & Saddle: NS' own brand contact points easily match the performance of big brand name offerings while helping keep the overall price of the bike down. The bars specced on the Snabb aren't listed on NS' website as a stand-alone product, but at 780mm wide they're big enough for most. I did find that while they had enough back-sweep, there wasn't much up-sweep, so if you like your bars rolled forwards or backwards they'll look a little odd to the eye. The Hold Fast grips didn't leave my hands yearning for Renthal's super tacky lock-ons, but they aren't going to be setting any records for comfort either. The saddle was comfy enough on the climbs, but like the grips, isn't going to be setting a new standard for performance. When these parts wear out, you'll probably want to change them rather than replace them like-for-like, but they're more than good enough for this to be a low-priority upgrade.

The Guide R brakes are a weird choice for a downhill-orientated bike and left me constantly wishing for more power. The Guide RE Guide lever Code calliper would have been a better choice. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
The Guide R brakes are a weird choice for a downhill-orientated bike and left me constantly wishing for more power. The Guide RE (Guide lever, Code caliper) would have been a better choice.
Shimano s XT drivetrain is a real star performer but the cassette could really do with a larger cog to give a bit of additional help on very steep climbs. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
Shimano's XT drivetrain is a real star performer but the cassette could really do with a larger cog to give a bit of additional help on very steep climbs.

NS Enigma Roll Rims on NS Rotary Hubs: Once again, NS' own-brand offering performed without a hitch. The rims were wide enough (30mm - measured, internal) to give the tires a great profile with a solid edge for cornering and built in such a way that I didn't notice flex or twang without them being too harsh.

KS Lev Integra Dropper Post: The post has performed faultlessly and its lever actuation is light and predictable. It does require a full-travel push to get the post to rise at the correct speed, though. Pushing the lever 3/4 of the way through its travel will make the post extend, but at a slower speed.

Shimano's XT Drivetrain: The fantastically performing, easy to set up and utterly dependable 11-speed XT consistently leaves me with a smile on my face. Push the shifter and the gears change time after time in exactly the same way. Compared to SRAM's Eagle it is missing 4-teeth which does mean you've got to push harder on really steep climbs, but I'm inclined to let this go because there isn't a faff-heavy set-up process and an ultra-sensitive and small B-tension sweet spot required for seamless shifting, and you can always upgrade with a smaller chainring or an expander cog for your standard XT cassette.


Unfortunately Fox s budget 36 didn t inspire confidence and even after spending much longer than I normally would setting it up I couldn t find a sweet spot between mid range and bottom our resistance and initial compliance. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
Unfortunately Fox's budget 36 didn't inspire confidence and even after spending much longer than I normally would setting it up I couldn't find a sweet spot between mid-range and bottom out resistance and initial compliance.
NS own-brand bars have little upsweep so if you like your bars rolled forwards or backwards they look a little ungainly. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
NS' own-brand bars have little upsweep, so if you like your bars rolled forwards or backwards they look a little ungainly.


The Schwalbe tyres provide excellent grip and a predictable break away point. PIC Andy Lloyd www.andylloyd.photography
The Schwalbe tires provide excellent grip and a predictable breakaway point.


Pros

+ Gives back as much as you put in.
+ Modern geometry makes for a predictable ride.
+ No-fuss componenets are fit and forget.
Cons

- Reluctant to forgive rider error or laziness.
- The range of gears could do with being bigger.
- Suspension was very hard to dial in.


Is this the bike for you?

The Snabb 150 29er ticks plenty of boxes for the speed-obsessed, ultra-accurate inner-racer. Under the right rider with some key settings dialed it's quite a weapon and will swallow up pretty much any trail you can throw at it.





Pinkbike's Take
bigquotesIf you're willing to put in some serious consideration and a bit of time setting up the Snabb, you're going to find yourself with an especially capable bike that doesn't need upgrading right out of the box. Be mindful, though, that the bike will suit riders who are precise with their line choice and proactive at finding and creating speed. As soon as laziness sets in or you become tired, the Snabb has a tendency to not be very forgiving for those who head off-line. So, make sure you bring your A-game to get the most from NS' long travel 29er.Alex Evans









179 Comments

  • + 92
 The day that a 46t large cog in the back isn't low enough gearing for a modern rider is a sad day indeed...
  • + 54
 Why? It's about the same ratio as running 22T in the front and 32T ol' day wide range in the rear. Also, the increased wheel size requires lower ratios.
  • - 43
flag bikemongmatt (Aug 20, 2018 at 3:19) (Below Threshold)
 I couldn’t agree more I’m only 12 and I’m running a 1x10 with a 42t out back and a 34t in front, but testers gotta test
  • + 72
 Come to the alps and grind up a 15% grade fire road for a couple hours... we're not all in our twenties anymore!
  • + 26
 I think that certainly depends on the types of climbs you need to ride to get to the trailheads. In the UK, especially where I ride, the climbs are steep and go straight up the hill - there are no zigzagging gravel fire roads that make life easy. Likewise, in the Alps a lot of the climbs are incredibly steep and harsh - more gears are a fantastic way to keep you pedalling and not resort to pushing.
  • + 5
 @alexcgevans: don't forget those of with bum knees who don't want the expense, weight and toxic battery of e-bikes.

I've loved having a teeny tiny granny gear when I've blown out my legs cranking around on the rest of the ride but gotta get that last long miserable climb of a truly epic and delirious day....or hour. Big Grin
  • + 5
 Oh well ... you are riding a 33 pounds (with pedals) monster with huge wheels and uber slack geometry ... what do you expect: climbing prowess?
  • - 23
flag casman86 (Aug 20, 2018 at 10:53) (Below Threshold)
 I can't imagine a 42t ever not being low enough. That with a 34t oval up front seems perfect. I guess it's like wearing overly supportive running shoes, only a temporary relief, then the feet will get weaker like wearing a cast. Super low gear ratios where people are riding slower than others are walking is both pointless and making them weaker. If you have a physical disability sure, but it shouldn't be the norm.
  • - 1
 In summary, this bike is an anchor since you need bigger that 46T to make it climb!
  • + 95
 I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say you're sub-150 lbs. Try riding with a 70-lb pack in CA mountains for two hours and then tell me my 220 lbs don't need a granny gear.

This is such a dumb--not to mention cliched, condescending and douchey--argument that lower gearing is for pussies, and we should all just suck it up and grind a 1x9.

Isn't the point of riding to a) have as much fun as possible, and b) go as fast as possible? Well, if you mash a bigger gear it's going to blow out your short-twitch muscles, which means you're going to deplete those muscles faster and, over the course of a long ride, be a lot slower. Whereas turning a smaller gear means you can rely more on your cardiovascular fitness, which means more endurance, more consistent energy, and faster riding overall. Plus, you have a helluva lot more fun doing it.

If you like mashing bigger gears, then by all means, do it. All I ask is that you please just shut the hell up about it. You guys are worse than Vegan Crossfitters, I swear...
  • + 2
 @mpcremata: yes mp ++
  • + 3
 @fanatyk-bb: This exactly! I love having the 50 on Eagle for extreme steps in the Rockies.. Especially near the end of a ride.. Its a huge plus in my world.. There when u need it is a plus.
  • + 3
 @GVArider: yes agreed. However there comes a point when walking is no slower.
  • + 3
 @Keit: Well, as long as you're not off the bike!
  • + 2
 Its a badass day when riders have enough cassette range to run a 1x drivetrain with a 36t chainring!
  • + 2
 @GVArider: So install a smaller chainring. If you're going over 30mph on the way down, and still pedaling, you need to ride more technical trails.
  • + 3
 @casman86: Missouri looks pretty flat when I fly over it.
  • + 1
 Thats redicilous that you think that's cassette is too small. Seems like you either brought the wrong bike to the wrong trail or need to ride more Also why would you say it's an xt bike when only 1 part is xt? @alexcgevans:
  • + 1
 @mpcremata: I agree with everything you said except for the part about putting on a 70 lb pack and riding. If you should be 150 and your 220 your obese and no granny gear is going to help.
  • + 1
 Also instead of that crap eagle a shimano xt 2x would give you more range and solve your problems Wink @thejake:
  • + 1
 It actually makes me a little happy that others are sad that a 46t cog isn’t low enough for me.
  • + 25
 Remind me please when €4.2k became a norm for aluminum frame with lower-to-mid level components attached? It's around that price point you can have top tier Commencal Meta, carbon Norco Range C3 or YT Jeffsy with nothing more to wish. Not to mention Guide brakes, which NO BIKE should be ever equipped with.
  • + 24
 "Mid-stroke and bottom out support are present and correct."

If I see the photo correctly, the shock is almost completely bottomed out on that berm. Smile
  • - 44
flag fanatyk-bb (Aug 20, 2018 at 1:24) (Below Threshold)
 Man, you're just fucking blind
  • + 4
 Yup, glad that aint my shock. BTW, what is the "3rd" water bottle bolt for down near the BB on the down tube?
  • + 4
 When you load the rear wheel to do a bunny hop, it compresses also. He's using good berm technique, suspension is compressed, ready to jump out of the exit and gain some speed.
  • + 2
 @richierocket: tool set
  • + 6
 @JohanG: Good technique that the suspension can't handle. Something is off with this whole review. You know what other kinds of mt bikes are unforgiving but fast as hell? Single speed rigid steel hard tails, doesn't mean I want to ride one. The way this bike dives thru 60% of it's fork travel braking? My DH bike can't do that unless I use a spring that's WAY off for my weight, and as you can read the reviewer was very careful to set up the suspension well.

This whole review reads like one of Jeremy Clarksons Mercedes reviews from Top Gear. On the surface it's glowing (Mercedes was a Top Gear sponsor after all, by a large margin) but he always found a polite and professional way to let the viewer read between the lines and know that in reality the Mercedes he was handling made no sense and handled like garbage.

My point is, PeaFunk is right, that's way too much travel to use in that situation, something is off with the bike.
  • + 1
 @mollow: what about the 4th?
  • + 1
 @jclnv: hidden in the lower shock mount plates maybe lol idk
  • + 1
 @mollow: I meant the one at the top of the downtube...!
  • + 1
 @mollow: Cheers mate!
  • + 2
 Really? Smashing berms uses a lot of travel on correctly set up suspension.
  • + 21
 So: the tires are standard casing Schwalbes that tear if you use sharp words, the fork and shock aren’t tuned well for the application and aren’t easily adjustable to good performance, the brakes are a budget choice with poor power, but the review conclusion is a Pro for “No-fuss, fit-and-forget components?”

Ummm?
  • + 2
 That got me for a second, now that you mention it. However, I'm pretty sure he was talking about the other/smaller/housebrand components, such as drivetrain, wheels, cockpit, seat, and seaport. Suspension was a recurring problem that he mentioned throughout the review, and he specifically listed that as a "Con" a couple of lines later, so I doubt he was talking about that.
  • + 13
 how in hell does a "bike" come to the conclusion that "it" will decide if "it" is not going to forgive me for making errors or being lazy?? Soooo, when I am not lazy and not making errors, and riding on point, .... does it reward me with a smack on the ass and a lollipop?
  • - 11
flag gooutsidetoday (Aug 20, 2018 at 6:56) (Below Threshold)
 I'm taking the review with a grain of salt. He sounds like one of those guys that will stop you mid ride multiple times to adjust the suspension settings instead of just riding the damn thing.
  • + 22
 @gooutsidetoday - Any bike tester will spend a lot of time methodically setting up their bike to help give you guys the best and most informed reviews possible. Just riding the bike with any old setting wouldn't be very conducive to producing a thorough review. So, yes, we do spend plenty of time fettling, and with good reason.

@jason475 -The bike's ride characteristics dictate how it is going to ride. These ride characteristics are a combination of many factors such as geometry, suspension kinematics, suspension tunes, components fitted etc etc.
  • + 0
 @gooutsidetoday: And you sound like a tard with that comment. Of course he will fiddle with it. He is a bike reviewer.
  • + 1
 Maybe read the statement as being "tired" instead of "lazy".
  • - 2
 @Poulsbojohnny: I just figured he guessed at the psi and didn't even check sag.....
  • + 13
 XT drivetrain? LoL NOPE. XT rear mech with SLX cassette/shifter. Another shorted product stack from a mfg. Knock $1k off this thing and it might look better. Just another 4 bar Horst link. Charging more while giving less...
  • - 6
flag Ryanrobinson1984 (Aug 20, 2018 at 5:21) (Below Threshold)
 The hell are you talking about? XT drivetrain is legit. I’ve seen similarly priced bikes that have NX on them. What do you think they’re supposed to put on there??
  • + 16
 @Ryanrobinson1984: He means that this is not a XT Drivetrain just because it has a XT mech. Full XT would be good.
  • + 20
 I'd rather have an XT shifter and everything else can be SLX. The SLX shifter is a cheap toy.
  • + 11
 Yeah, SLX shifter doesn't have double shift, which is the killer feature of Shimano systems.
  • + 2
 @JohanG: I agree - I have an XT bike and an SLX bike, the shifter probably is the biggest delta in how they feel. I guess XT is also slightly lighter - but aside from weight, that shifter is the biggest difference that I can pick up between the groups.
  • - 4
flag m1dg3t (Aug 20, 2018 at 6:55) (Below Threshold)
 @fred-frod: Yep. They cheaped out on the brakes too. I don't know how good NS stuff is so you may need to ditch all the house brand parts - cockpit/wheels.

The reviewer is doing a great disservice to the consumer by providing blatantly false info. Then these tools put 'No affiliation' in their "Bios" LoL
  • + 4
 @dthomp325: That and insta release. Soon as the lever starts moving the gears start changing. Shimano shifters are ace!
  • + 1
 @m1dg3t: Did you miss the part with the glowingish review of the house brand stuff?
  • + 1
 @mtbikeaddict: I threw everything the reviewer said out the window. He either doesn't know what an XT drive train is or he lied in his 'review'. You decide. Either way, NOT interested in this thing.

I don't see any NS stuff except on their stock builds.

Cheers!
  • + 9
 The bottom line with NS bikes is that they cost a bit more than they should in relation to the choice of their components (that goes esp for the cheaper models) and there's always something missing in order to blow you away with their performance. I guess they have to work more on that formula. I owned and NS in the past and kept it for about two seasons - great bike but I made a "couple" of changes to match its attitude (btw the bike was already on the expensive side). I am assuming it's the attitude "you're getting a super solid frame so I have to cut on components", which reminds me TREK in the past. There are super solid well working components out there (that they don't cost a fortune) that you can definitely build an all round good bike - I am not an expert on how the market works so these are pure thoughts. Get that straight and you'll go from 9 to 10 (I guess).
  • + 10
 That's some heavy chainstay rub going on there. www.pinkbike.com/photo/16173954
  • + 4
 that's actually really bad... I don't really understand how it can be that bad... I ride a boost frame since 10 months, 6 days a week, with flat pedals and there's nowhere near as much pedal rub...
  • + 1
 I thought the wear on the crank arms was excessive compared to my experience as well. Maybe hes a rider that squeezes the bike with his legs more than the average joe.
  • + 3
 I ruin crank arms and chain stays on my left side from my left ankle being broken a few times in a row as a youngster, 2nd time they put it back together they left it at a wonky angle, my cranks look 3 years old in 3 weekends.
  • + 1
 Well, at least it shows he put some time in on the bike.
  • + 2
 @TheR: With a brillo pad? That thing must be painted with water colors! LoL
  • + 1
 @m1dg3t: Ha! Yeah... I don't know. I know my heel rubs on my bike, and I've had it for 9 seasons and it doesn't look like that. I have worn some marks in my shoes, though.
  • + 6
 "Gives back as much as you put in."

What does this even mean? As a throw-away paragraph filler, fine, but as the first of three "Pros", I don't know what to make of this. Isn't this a true statement for literally *every* bike?
  • + 2
 @MtbSince84: Marketing. You are being sold a feeling or an idea because the product isn't actually worth the price they are selling it for otherwise. Welcome to the modern world. :'(

This 'review' contains false info that has been pointed out. The reviewer has commented to some replies surely noting the others, and yet no correction/s has/have been made.
  • + 1
 I think it's because he said some bikes, like the Range, can cover for some mistakes and get up to high speed easily, and so give back lots with little input?
  • + 1
 @mtbikeaddict: That should be labelled as a "Con", then. If other bikes give back *more* than you put in, and this bike only gives back *as much as* you put in, then this bike is *worse* than other bikes.

But yes, it's all bullshit, as I was trying to point out. The first Pro is nonsense, and the other two listed Pros are directly contradicted by the Cons.
  • + 1
 @MtbSince84: I think he was trying to say if you're not on your game, with little input, other bikes give more... but if you get everything right this is better. Just gotta enter the special code to get the boost... but yeah, it's a little weird.
  • + 7
 Tester s 74kg and needs to go-to all sorts of lengths (and deal with serious harshness) to keep the thing from bottoming out and diving. At 100kg, I guess that tells all I need to know...
  • + 12
 Tells us all we need to know: the tester has some weird suspension set-up ideas/issues, and might not have an idea of what actually helps or doesn't.

He was going for 30% sag on the fork which seems ridiculous. It'll be almost impossible to get a good riding fork (for aggressive riding as the bike is intended) at 30%. Fox doesn't even recommend it. 15-20% is their recommendation, and Most that ride aggressively, that I know at least will be much closer to that 15% give or take a few %, mostly take.

Also, the bar roll thing bugs me. A handlebar typically has more backsweep than upsweep. A person who likes bars rolled forward is looking for more upsweep/less backsweep than the handlebar comes with, and vice-versa. He complains of the little upsweep, then rolls bar back (presumably because he wants even less upsweep? idk.) to a ridiculous extreme and complains it looks funny? Or is he just rolling it back because he likes a rolled back bar for no real reason at all, just because that's "his thing"? I actually have that exact bar, and while it does have a weird bend to me as well, everything presented about it in the article has no logic too it.
  • + 9
 Not to mention he blissfully adds that the Factory FIT4 GRIP2 would have been better when that's a 2019 fork that isn't even publicly available yet (maybe it is idk, but if it is, only very recently), when this is a 2018 model year bike that would have had part spec decided on mid 2017.

Also the guide brakes were common on DH bikes as oe spec when the new codes weren't on the market yet, and even still today are found on many DH bikes and enduro race bikes. It's a 4 piston trail/enduro brake and it's on an enduro bike. Sure, there are better brakes, but to say the brakes and bike don't share the same intention is silly.
  • + 6
 @ciszewski: had exactly the same thought...who sets the fork at 30%??
He then goes on to say he likes a more supportive setup from the suspension than most. So why’d you even start at 30% dude? I’m not surprised it felt shit. And as you say if the reviewer just wanted to start with what is considered a ‘standard’ setup where most buyers will start then 15-20% would have been appropriate.
Generally I enjoyed the review just thought that was a little odd.
  • + 1
 @ciszewski: something else that I noticed was he seems to be in search of midstroke while reducing the volume with spacers which is counter productive but perhaps he’s trying to find a balance there with midstroke and top stroke. I’d have gone straight to full volume and higher pressure but maybe he did try that.
  • + 4
 @iqbal-achieve: Yeah the review wasn't all that bad. But I still feel like it read: "I struggled with suspension set-up, so ran it stiff knowing the consequence of having less small bump sensitivity. The bike felt skittish when not focused and can bounce off line". Not sure if it's the bike now or his lack of a comfortable set-up.

I still want bike reviews to be written by an expert level rider that is knowledgeable about set-up and nuances between bikes, but doesn't research or look at geo/spec sheets/or any information prior to riding and determining the feel of the bike. I feel so many of these guys look at the geo, leverage specs, and specs and decide things prior to even hopping on the bike. Self-fulfilling bike reviews are the norm everywhere it seems.

ditto on taking volume spacers out rather than putting them in.
  • + 1
 @iqbal-achieve: volume spacers reduce mid stroke support?

Can you explain that a little bit further to me?

(Genuine curious)
  • + 7
 @tigerteeuwen: In order to maintain similar bottom out force, the more tokens you put in, the less pressure you run and thus significantly reduce mid stroke.

Finding with these more properly sorted air springs that are softer off the top (evol/debonair/lufkapette), that ditching the tokens and running much higher air pressure is the ticket to finally getting enough mid stroke support. Really lets you push the bike just that much harder.

Agreed that 30% sag is suspect, review reads to me like suspension was just not properly setup. Will say that found on my 2018 36 RC2 that the fox recommended rebound setup was wayyyyyy to slow, packed up and led to harshness and a feeling of little support. Running something like 3-5 clicks faster than recommended and it's much better.
  • + 1
 @unusual-bread: thanks for the great explanation.

Mid support is what I feel I am lacking the most, running 3 of the possible 4 tokens with my fork (think i am going to be removing some.)
  • + 1
 @tigerteeuwen: sorry I didn’t reply, unusual-bread pretty much covered it for me.
Did you catch the episode of the privateer where Adam had the help of Steve from Vorsprung? Pretty similar situation iirc Adam was looking for more support while maintaining a similar bottom out force.
  • + 1
 @ciszewski: @ciszewski: totally agree, especially on the handlebar thing. While it's a matter of personal preference, from the photos i can definitely see that the tester has a unique taste.
Btw - owning a similar NS bar, i can agree the bend looks weird, especially when rolled back so far, it's actually super super comfortable. I had my doubts early on, but after trying so many bars, top of the line, i now feel the NS is the most comfortable on i own due to this back sweep.
  • + 6
 Perhaps the bar does have extreme sweep and rise numbers, I've no idea, but he has that bar swept so far back that it's literally pointing downwards. Given he has chosen to run such an strange setup, its pretty hard to take his comments about the bar seriously. Almost makes you wonder if he finds the fork harsh only because he has his wrists in an entirely unnatural position...
  • + 5
 I know plenty of people riding Snabb and not one had to set up their suspension to whatever ridiculous numbers the tester did. And yes, they ride the bike fast and on difficult trails and bike parks. With the air pressure set by the tester how can they be surprised with the lack of plushiness? The test seems biased to me. Having ridden the Snabb, imho it would feel no shy of Ibis, Banshee or Scott to most of people out there, unless they be pro. It is stiff, inspires confidence and does great on large jumps and drop offs.
  • + 6
 How about we use do a review on every fsr enduro bike in a group test, but with people who are new to the sport. Let's see if they can tell the difference.
  • + 5
 "I added 16 clicks of rebound damping from fully open" ...alright, little odd but I guess I can wrap my head around that.

"and 20-degrees of dial turn of compression damping from fully open"........?????
  • + 4
 On the fork? Grip damper has a dial without detents from open to closed. 20% is an accurate way to describe where the compression is set
  • + 3
 I’ve had mixed experiences with the lower end Fox stuff. The Factory stuff is phenomenal but I’ve had similar meh experiences with the lower end stuff. Seems like you need to make too many compromises to set it up.

Have you seen how cheap XT stuff is when you order it from Europe? NS cost for that drivetrain is probably 30$. I know it works and the XT brand is bulletproof but for this much coin you really need something better. At least give me an XT shifter!
  • + 6
 Something about that first picture, it's just absolutely stunning. Love the. Background
  • + 3
 I’ve been riding my 2015 Snabb T a lot the last 2 weeks, it is a great all rounder. I bought a bare frame and built up with RTC3 Debonair + , Lyrik etc no plans to replace it. For what it is, a relatively short travel trail bike it can punch above its weight.
  • + 2
 I have ridden a Snabb before and it was with out a doubt one of the most amazing descending bikes I have ever ridden, it climbed like tank though. I found it to be more capable than any other bike I have ridden in the same class and made me so confident after only one ride. Strange how my experience was the exact opposite. Sounds like the suspension setup was an issue too here.
  • + 2
 @ alexcgevans

Do you need help setting up that fork, i weight the same as you

First you mention fit4, the fit4 and the grip damper are very different; all of the specs you posted show a grip damper but you keep referencing the fit4 3 position damper? Which do you have?

I initially pumped up the bike's Fox 36 EVOL Float FIT4 3-position lever( which is not the shock spec above) to 75 psi, giving me 30% sag; fox never recommends 30% sag, 15-20% should be your go to. Which would be 80-85psi, I would stick with 1 bottom out token though you could have used 3 worst case. For me 2 bottom out spacers and 15% sag was too much.

. The bike was delivered with a 10cc orange volume reducer in the fork and I added 16 clicks of rebound damping from fully open, and 20-degrees of dial turn of compression damping from fully open.

Way too slow of rebound im running 80psi, 1 orange tolken, and 5 clicks of rebound. Sounds like not only were you too soft, but you were too slow; let'er breathe.


Same with the rear shock, less sag, less rebound and let'r eat.
  • + 4
 What the.... I have almost the same spec, aluminium frame, slx shifter with xt derailleur, average brakes... on my 1.8l€ 2015 Canyon!
  • + 5
 Overpriced for almost five thousand dollars. You get performance.level suspension.
  • + 5
 When i hear NS i allways think of the Dutch Railway service. Otherwise this thing looks the business.
  • + 2
 Same here. I am always afraid these bikes will let me down, as soon as the first leaves fall on the track.
  • + 6
 Seems overpriced but their paint jobs are prime.
  • - 2
 Will crack all over the place like their previous full sus efforts think.
  • + 2
 Wow the author has a funny idea of how to se up a suspension. I prefer to have an active suspension. Not locked out on small stuff. Which makes for a rather biased bike test as I would never set up my suspension so harsh.
  • + 2
 If you got no midstroke and you can’t use the damper to add some support the only other option is Moar pressure.
I will happily suffer harsher top stroke if it means I’m not riding out a bottomed out barge.
In fact personally I’d rather keep the damping active and use the spring rate to hold it up.
Harshness be damned. Mid stroke is king.
  • + 0
 @iqbal-achieve: you obviously set up your suspension like the author.if the front and rear suspension are tuned to react similarly the bike floats in the middle of the suspension.
This in my opinion gives me the best traction.
A fork will dive 60% into its travel if you use way to much front brake and brake hard.
Mid stroke support is all the rage. To compensate for .... well ...less than great braking skills.
If I ride sloppy I use all my travel . If I ride smooth the bike floats in the middle of the suspension.
A combination of sloppy riding and heavy braking causes my suspension to pack up.
I prefer to ride smooth and have a plush suspension.
There is no correct set up.
Still I think this NS bike is a trail bike biased towards DH not an Enduro race machine.
  • + 2
 @Sshredder: less than great braking skills is using too much front brake and braking too hard? That's the most effective way to slow down, on the brakes as little as possible but as hard as necessary to get down to the speed you're comfortable with. For people that ride fast, as long as there is traction, they are pulling a wack of front brake when needed. Back brake is great at controlling speed, but not stopping or slowing rapidly.

I don't disagree with anything else, just highlights different perspectives and preferences on suspension set-up.
  • + 4
 For $4200 you can get a Commencal with Fox factory suspension, Renthal cockpit, and Spank wheels. #nobrainer
  • + 0
 I did that but was then forced to sell the frame and replace it with a Snabb frame as the commencal was poo, Meta V4 AM.
  • + 6
 #hamfistedbaboon
  • + 4
 Rather have a slx mech and a xt shifter. Xt shifters are do much nicer and longer lasting
  • + 5
 I'll take sentinel carbon gx for 5k instead
  • + 1
 A word about NS handlebars - BEST i've ever owned.
I'm a handlebar freak. I tried the best, most popular handlebars for years. Got the NS one with quite a bit of skepticism, but i can now say the high backsweep angle makes this the most comfortable MTB handlebar i've owned. Took a little getting used to, especially since i preferred higher riser bars, but now i can't go back. I urge people to try it. NS makes pretty sweet components, with interesting spec (weight, colors etc...)
  • + 3
 Ns slightly older 275 bikes are excellent and extremely cheap on here. Worth a look if buying used and on a budget.
  • + 2
 Thanks for the tip. Checked, found one for 1k, for sale by... wait a second... subtle, very subtle. Wink
  • + 4
 Please review the yt capra 29. That would be ace
  • + 4
 That bar roll! It's too far back. What is this amateur bike setup hour?
  • + 1
 i would rather have the new 29er from commencal with way better parts for the same money. This thing is overpriced and if you like the colour of this NS commencal has you covered as they already do the same colour.
  • + 3
 it looks kinda ugly and unfinished. ew.
  • + 3
 never mind the rub on cranks look at the poor chainstays.
  • + 3
 Well... "hamfisted baboon"...
  • + 2
 Please get rid of those obnoxious snabb graphics everywhere
  • + 2
 I can build this bike for $2k... just sayin
  • + 2
 It sounds like a really mediocre bike
  • + 2
 How does the Snabb handle a coil shock?
  • + 1
 It doesn’t have very much progression at all. The graph makes it seem like it does because of the axis scales. The bike was definitely designed around an air shock.

That said, I have a coil in my snabb 160. With a slightly stiffer spring it rides exactly how I want it too. If I make a bad line choice into a big square edge at speed, I will be punished with a harsh bottom out; but shouldn’t we be punished for making mistakes? Haha. No harsh bottom outs during normal bike park/Enduro use.

Progressive bottom out bumpers on some of the new coils will help with this.
  • + 1
 @ciszewski:
Thanks mate! I’m exactly thinking about that, upgrading my snabb 160 with a dhx2 coil shock. I guess it’s gonna be less playful but more shred-oriented o suppose.
  • + 3
 Holy Heel Rub!
  • + 1
 I recently built up the 160 carbon. It’s a fussy bike but once you take the reigns then she’s one hell of a bike!!!!
  • + 1
 Rear requires 2 allen keys to remove. Now you get to bring 2 multi-tools on the trail with you to change a flat. Razz
  • - 2
 That low downtube bend would get rock hits in the first rids on a proper trail.
Why do frame designers make this mistake over and over and why no reviewer mentions this aspect?
  • + 2
 That color ????
  • + 1
 good looking bike but overpriced ...
  • + 1
 Sorry but feels like a Formula One car? Really? Are we 10 years old?
  • + 1
 No gearbox? What happened to gearbox?
  • + 2
 I'm disappointed :/
  • + 0
 It's proud moment to see Polish NS Bikes being so good and exact opposite to #fartmoor.
  • - 8
flag fanatyk-bb (Aug 20, 2018 at 1:25) (Below Threshold)
 Can't you just hate a german brand?
  • + 3
 @EnduroriderPL: Why Dartmoor is evil, then? I own a two6player and I am happy with that, why shouldn't I?
  • + 0
 @fanatyk-bb: I was happy with hornet 2012 althought it wasn't design faults free. Then I bought www.endurorider.pl/dartmoor-primal and it was all over for me.
  • - 4
flag WAKIdesigns (Aug 20, 2018 at 3:22) (Below Threshold)
 @EnduroriderPL - pffff, yeah, you reached deep into your arse for that opinion. I am dying to know how you grew so anti Dartmoor, considering that those brands do things so similar. Did you get a Dart in your arse? Considering that in Poland prices are neaar identical, and NS used to charge premium for their stuff sold abroad. I am equally neutral in feeling about both brands, but if I was to put my a*shole on and get picky, NS would defo get more shots. At least before, the Snabb had some cool colors, this looks like yet another Yanoosh bike among Kross, Romet and Kellys.

Janusz na Twisterze na nieswoim rowerze! Jego Grazyna w oddali, na Rowni tarcze pali! Pozyczyl se Gianta, i udaje eleganta! Reigna - Passata polskiego Enduro! Marzyl o takim jeszcze przed matura! Lecz co to, obok harata Kruku, wkurwia Komami lokalesow na Facebooku... oh musialem...


Nevertheless I am proud to see a Polish brand in here as well.
  • + 0
 @WAKIdesigns: why would I be anti fartmoor since they sold me frame that won't take 27,5" 2,4" tire on their own rim? Should I be mad about them laughing when I ask why don't they recall fked frames back?

Personally for me NS are way more advanced in design and technology than fartmoor. I'll happyly agree that NS choice of colors was awfull for a long time but now it's more than fine. I don't own any of their frames/bike at the moment but when I'll decided that's time for I change I definitively will check them out.

PS: You know Waki, we do things so different for example I don't put anything up my arse to get any opinion. Cheers baby :*
  • - 3
 @EnduroriderPL: so you basically lack experience with NS bikes because I know people who owned some of their hardtails and trust me, if you had Surge instead of Primal, you’d be writing this the other way around. As if ALL brands didn’t have issues. You will burn Dartmoor only because you couldn’t fit a too fat tyre to what essentially is a Aggro XC/ Trail HT?! Huh, I’d love to see your reaction to a broken frame whoever would sell you a frame that would break. Bye Janek
  • + 0
 @WAKIdesigns: I broke my Hornet - don't you remeber? I do, as I still own what's left of it. Despite this I never have written that it's a bad company and didn't do much fuss about it - you can check it on my website. Frame was out of warranty and it did have hard life with me so it some way it was ok that eventually it let go.

As for primal, the tire was way below true 2,4" and all the essential info was in my test.

You're right about one thing: if it would be NS instead of fartmoor I would wirte the same thing about lack of tire clearance.
  • + 0
 Seriously, 32x46 isn't small enough?
  • + 1
 I have the same gearing and like he said, you can still climb everything but on really steep bits where the 29ers need more effort to move you will find yourself needing to grinch your teeth slightly.
  • + 1
 @mollow: and @mgrantorser : Flex those glutes you savages! Pssf... Look at those weaklings that "grinch" their teeth when pedaling up steep hills.
  • + 3
 grinching, or clinching, your teeth will tighten your shoulders and hips, which will make climbing harder. learn to control that and you'll be climbing with 7 sp dh drivetrains in no time!
  • + 1
 Hahaha!
  • + 0
 "Reluctant to forgive rider error or laziness"

How is this a Con?
  • + 1
 Wood hit it.
  • + 1
 Breaking.
  • + 1
 Indeed. Braking or breaking? SMH
  • - 3
 Not bad for $4200 and pretty sure I could get that well below 31 lbs but do I want the same suspension design I've already had 15 times??????
  • + 28
 You had it 15 times before... it must work
  • + 18
 Fool me once shame on you, fool me 15 times, shame on... shame, fooled me cant get fooled again
  • + 2
 @ismasan: I think of Horst as the 911 of the mountain bike world, it’s been around forever and refined and it works.
  • - 4
flag fecalmaster (Aug 20, 2018 at 1:45) (Below Threshold)
 It works like Ford Taurus, after owning a few Audi's the Taurus starts to look and feel like every car out there.
  • + 4
 @fecalmaster: I think you don't have any Idea how different suspension designs really affect your riding.
  • + 2
 @Ryanrobinson1984: Indeed it was. Oh how I hark for the days when we had Bush quotes to laugh at. Now I cry at presidential quotes. "Make Orwell Fiction Again".
  • + 1
 @fred-frod: Well having owned and raced every design there is over the last 20 plus years I would have to say I think you need to recalibrate your instincts. Also owned products from every suspension company , Manipoo to Avalanche and all in between.
  • - 2
 Why do bikes need a rear swingarm? Could there be a design that utilized front and rear suspension forks?
  • + 2
 Interesting thought. However, just for starters, that would cause messes with the drivetrain, not to mention stiffness problems, and probably a lot of things that I honestly don't fully understand or consider. The main problem I can see is that on the front of the bike, the fork is like this on the ground:
···‾‾‾\/‾‾‾‾
·····//
···(//)
‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾
When the bike is going forwards, and the ground is going "backwards" (towards the rear wheel) the force of the impacts goes up and back, parallel/in to the fork, and compresses the fork and is absorbed. If there were a rear fork, like this:
···\\
···(\\)
‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾
The forces in the rear still go up and back /, but this wouldn't do anything for a fork, except break it. Big Grin The impact (energy/motion) needs to change from / to \. Hence why we need pivots/swingers/chainstays/seatstays and everything else at the back of the bike... in part to change this:
··/
·/
/
into this:
\\
··\
···\
····)
···/
or this:
----
······\
·······\
········)
·······/
(More or less... those sketches were VERY rough. The dots are just there to act as spaces)
  • + 1
 There used to be in the 90's but there were a few reasons we gave up on it. Weight, extra components, center of gravity, bushing load etc.
  • - 1
 Lovely bike, just needs a motor.
  • - 2
 "speed-obsessed, ultra-accurate inner-racer" - that's what I tell dudes on tinder to make them want to ride with me.
  • - 1
 @WAKIdesigns: You just upped the MSRP on all new models by $500 with that tag line!

If you could squeeze the words 'boost' 'super' or 28.99 in there somewhere we can prolly push it north of $1k!

Welcome to the club Smile
  • - 1
 The down tube, top tube, headtube intersection that all bikes should have.
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