Maintenance
The Mega uses a mix of very standard bearing sizes and some odd ones with extended races, although Nukeproof do provide all the bearing codes on the website making it easy to order replacements. There are double row bearings at Horst pivot with a washer between.
All pivot bolts have very long threads and come built with lots of thread lock from the factory, which is nice to see. The single shear pivots do feel noticeably less stiff compared to the double shear pivots and do put a lot of stress on the bolt. But we experienced no failures or problems during the entirety of the test. The top tube pivot on our test bike, however, was a bit narrow and meant that when tightened the link squashed and added some friction to the pivot.
You don’t need any proprietary tools to work on the Mega with all the pivots using standard size hex keys. Although you do need an array of sizes for the entire bike. The whole bike is simple to strip down, especially with the external routing on the rear. You can easily do a whole bike service without disconnecting the brake or gear lines or having half the rear triangle dangling from them.
The bike is also easy to clean with only a few pockets and areas to make sure to blast to get the mud out. After an unseasonably dry spring we were met with copious amounts of peanut butter clinging to the bike after every ride, highlighting the little pockets at the chain stay bridge and inside the drop outs. Be careful to empty the bike out after washing as it can have a tendency to hold the water inside the main frame and rear triangle.
The Mega uses a mix of very standard bearing sizes and some odd ones with extended races, although Nukeproof do provide all the bearing codes on the website making it easy to order replacements. There are double row bearings at Horst pivot with a washer between.
All pivot bolts have very long threads and come built with lots of thread lock from the factory, which is nice to see. The single shear pivots do feel noticeably less stiff compared to the double shear pivots and do put a lot of stress on the bolt. But we experienced no failures or problems during the entirety of the test. The top tube pivot on our test bike, however, was a bit narrow and meant that when tightened the link squashed and added some friction to the pivot.
You don’t need any proprietary tools to work on the Mega with all the pivots using standard size hex keys. Although you do need an array of sizes for the entire bike. The whole bike is simple to strip down, especially with the external routing on the rear. You can easily do a whole bike service without disconnecting the brake or gear lines or having half the rear triangle dangling from them.
The bike is also easy to clean with only a few pockets and areas to make sure to blast to get the mud out. After an unseasonably dry spring we were met with copious amounts of peanut butter clinging to the bike after every ride, highlighting the little pockets at the chain stay bridge and inside the drop outs. Be careful to empty the bike out after washing as it can have a tendency to hold the water inside the main frame and rear triangle.
167 Comments
Very cool.
I NEVER understand the 2 bike comparisons at the end of these reviews??? Great review, but a 1-2 paragraph comparison against only one other bike and by just one rider makes NO objective sense to me. By this I mean it has no objective value to me as the reader, the comparison data only applies to the ONE rider doing the test.
Other than that, great write-up.
"The Float X2 is a highly impressive shock, with excellent performance out on the trail, and enough tuning options to satisfy even the pickiest of riders. The only thing that could make it even better would be a lever to quickly add compression damping when faced with a long climb, but by the sound of things this should be a reality sooner than later, although final timing and pricing have yet to be determined. When all is said and done, the Float X2 earns its place as one of the best gravity-oriented air shocks currently on the market, one that's capable of anything from World Cup downhill racing to rowdy all-mountain adventures in your own backyard." -mike kazimer
If anything the X2 held up too well on my first gen Mega 290, so it felt a bit harsh.
Any more info @dan-roberts ?
I am interested to hear about your issues with the X2 reliability. I've been riding mine for a year and a half with 0 issues or needing any paid service. That said, I do the air can apart to clean / relube the seals every few months just to keep it feeling freshly lubed (which does require shaft clamps) so maybe that's what has saved me.
That was just my experience though, and sometime you get lucky with a shock/bike/rider combo in which a particular part will last forever.
Go look at the Whistler opening day poll and compare it with previous years
Same experience with ZEE, but still my favorite. When on bite point very precise and powerful.
A lot of similar text in years. I guess, on rear brake line with mineral oil expanding, they should double oil chambers on lovers, but sadly Shimano went weight saving SRAM way.
Pretty sure Tracey Mosley also won three in a row?
Great review, though, as usual!
I especially like the maintenance section. I want to know if I can replace my own bearings etc. That is a totally overlooked thing especially for riders in wetter climates (all be it I live in the UK and its been positively arid for the last few months bar the lst 2 weeks).
On a different note, I have spent the last couple of years laughing at the water bottle debate. This weekend I ordered a new bike. I had agonised over 3-4 narrowing it down and would keep going back to the Nukeproof Reactor (3rd place) especially when some came in stock. In the end it was the lack of water bottle space that killed that off. Most of my rides are 1-2 hours sans pack so a bottle is very important to me. I dont consider underslug as viable for dog/horse/cow/muddy sh!t reasons. Spending 3+k came down to water bottles! Damn.
The medium has a reach of 455mm, the large is 470mm, and the XL is 515mm. So the large is only 15mm larger than the medium, but a huge 45mm smaller than the XL.
I'm 6'1", and my current bike has a reach of 475mm, and I'm wanting it to be a bit larger. I'm just not sure I like the reach, ETT, and seat tube length of the XL.
If I had to guess, I'd say the weird sizing is a request of Mr Hill. If I remember correctly, he's swapped back and forth between medium and large sizes (at least in testing).
I ran into a guy with the 29er size large mega and it felt similar, tight on climbs. XL would probably be fine, just narrow the bars 5 - 10mm.
How tall are you? And which bike did you go from, and which did you go to?
I'm on a Kona Process 153 29, and feel like I need more reach (feel hunched a bit), and longer chainstays (425mm on mine).
I really want to try to demo a bike with similar-ish numbers. But with COVID, its been difficult to find anything locally with geo numbers like that. And you're right, it feels like a big risk (on paper).
I think my best chances are to try to find a Transition Sentinel, or Norco Sight. As I'm not likely to get a demo for a Nukeproof, Privateer, or Raaw here stateside
a mate of mine got that same process as you and i really believe that for taller people it is not a good choice due to that chainstay length. The longer chainstays on my bird really were a game changer, the extra cs length alone increased to size of the window where my CoG was not in a dangerous place massively, and then along with the reach its a massive difference.
The only time where the extra length is annoying is on switchbacks where you have to turn back on yourself and the outside of the entry and the ouside of the exit of the corner is the same as your wheelbase, everywhere else the extra size has given me so much more confidence to throw the bike around that I find that as long as I'm willing to actively ride it, its just as agile as anything else, in fact i think its more agile than my radon was because the radon had a 65mm stem, which i really liked, you never get knocked off line at the expense of quick steering.
the only things stopping me going bigger is top tube length, i think the TTL on my bird is 680mm or so, which is about as long as i'm willing to risk going as all my height is in my legs. I would love to try a Pole or geometron, but I've heard nightmares about Pole customer service and Leo annoys me, and Geometrons cant take waterbottles... but both of those are longer bikes without going further on that TTL
anyway, sorry for the tangent, I've been eyeing new bikes and I'm not even considering things with CS lengths 440mm, the Norco Sight is definitely on my list, although Norco's Range is due an update soon, so maybe wait for that. I really like that sentinel, but the short (for XL) CS length makes me feel as though i'd struggle with weight distribution on it.
I appreciate the feedback man!
Your experience and opinions mirrors my own. The Process has "too" short of chainstays for my preferences (~186cm here), making it really hard to weight the front correctly. But I bought it when I had no opinions (first "real" mountain bike), and its been a good bike to learn on.
I absolutely agree. The Transition Sentinel looks great for me... other than the fixed CS length. The Norco Sight is similar, but with slightly longer CS's in XL. And those are the main ones I'm likely able to find to demo someday.
I REALLY like the RAAW Madonna, but its a bit too spendy for me. So the Privateer 161 has me really interested. And the Privateers geo is really close to the Norco, so I'm hoping demoing the Sight can be a stand in (if I can just find one to test ride).
but in my internet stranger's opinion youre on the right track, i'd highly recommend being firm on chainstay length, it will make such a huge diffference
How do you get on with the really long back end? I always found it to be a bit hard work catching backsides and hopping logs on the trail, that kind of thing. I did rate that bike though. I mulleted it for a couple of weeks and it was really fun with the smaller wheel. I reckon a sweet compromise would be a 275 with a 160mm 29er fork. Perhaps I'll give that a go next year.
Saying that, I would take my Mega out of the garage before my Dh bike most days, take it on a modern dh style flow trail and it wants to go fast, not feel fast, but just is going fast. Its a very stable bike, not a playful bike, just stable and fast, very predictable under braking too.
If I was to ride najjury, little square edges and old school trails then there are more satisfying bikes that need much less work to carry speed. These kind of trails are dying off these days as people prefer back country/flow trails.
Glad you've got yours sorted, I gave up but it was still the bike that opened my eyes to the benefits of long chainstays.
Reach is not an indication of how well a rider fits on the bike. The BB to handlebar distance is, and it not only remains unchanged with fork changes, but actually increases with the addition of spacers, even though the reach is reduced. Rider area distance (RAD) actually increases more by adding spacers than by an increase of reach. It’s just important to consider reach when comparing bikes. Consider a reach that’s 2.1 mm shorter than stated, to compare with that of a bike whose headtube is 5mm longer.
Thanks.
What's up with that? Are they just saying that it has different numbers to make it fit closer to being on trend with geo or is production QC that bad?
Do they vary that much? Who knows but they are claiming they can't hold that tight a tolerance on there. I'm sure frame manufactures are in a similar boat. Lots of parts, and lots of areas for small off-fit items to stack up.
JP
The new Michelin DH 22 and 34, although DH casings, appear to directly address these little wrinkles with the Enduro. Oh, and yes the Wild Rock'R2 is awesome sauce.
I doubt that we'll see any sales from CRC and I'm not sure that Nukeproof is the value brand they once were.
To get the best out of your Mega you should really try and downsize on the chainring. I went as low as 26t paired with an e13 cassette. Sooo much better while sprinting out of the saddle, makes the bike much more direct to pedal input.
Secondly the digression at the beginning of the travel. With gen1 it was even worse. BUT: a good crossover stack in the compression circuit of the shock compensates for that issue nicely. Should be stock, but for some reason bigger companies do not have the balls to spec that on this and similar leverage curves.
Hi, can you make any comment on this bike comparing it to the mega 275 RS (besides the usual 27.5 vs 29 comparisons)? Thanks!