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Review: Orbea's New Rally On Linkage for the Rallon

Jul 5, 2019
by Mike Levy  
Orbea Rallon

Orbea's fifth-generation Rallon (pictured above) impressed me with its all-around abilities when I reviewed it last year, but the Spanish brand has made some changes for 2020 that are intended to make the bike even more capable. This includes a 10mm bump in travel at both ends courtesy of a 170mm fork up front and the revised 'Rally On' linkage that eeks out more squish from the Fox shock, as well as a claimed increase in sensitivity and a ''more progressive leverage curve'' that was wholly needed.

And, in an unusual and very un-bike brand-like move, Orbea is selling the backward-compatible Rally On linkage separately so that owners of the fifth-generation Rallon can convert their bikes to match the 2020 version. I had to try one, obviously.

The kit will go for $299 USD when it's available at the end of August, and you'll find two new rocker arms with fresh bearings installed, a new pivot axle (not shown), a new shock clevis, and all new hardware inside the box. You'll get a bearing preload tool as well. What you won't find, however, is a 170mm-travel fork; that one is up to you to figure out but it's also not a requirement to use the new linkage.

Rally On Linkage Details

• 10mm increase in travel to 160mm
• Increased suspension sensitivity
• Increased progression
• Includes new bearings and hardware
• Availability: End of August, 2019
• MSRP: $299 USD
• More info:
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Don't want or need 170mm up front? Orbea says that the linkage doesn't change the bike's geometry if you decided to run 160mm at both ends, which is exactly what I've done with my grey and orange Rallon.

Also worth noting is that you might have to bump up the shock's spring rate slightly - 50in/lb if you're on coil, or a few strokes of a shock pump if you're on air - due to the average leverage ratio going up. Air-sprung shocks might need a volume spacer taken out, too.

Orbea Rallon R5 Linkage
The $299 USD kit includes new left- and right-side rocker arms with the bearings installed (not shown), a new shock yoke, new axle (not shown) and all new hardware (also not shown).

What's Different About the Linkage?

I doubt you'd be able to tell the old and new versions apart if you only had a quick glance, but it's a lot more obvious when you compare the two side by side. Also, keep in mind that millimeters matter; even the smallest difference in pivot location can have a big effect on how the suspension performs. Put next to each other, it's easy to see the difference at the shock yoke pivot (it's a few millimeters lower) and at the seatstay pivot (it's a lot of millimeters lower).

Orbea Rallon
The new link is being held in this photo, with the old link still on the bike behind it. The rocker's main pivot (blue) hasn't changed, but the shock yoke pivot (green) has moved down slightly. The seatstay pivot (red) has been moved down even more.

According to Orbea, these changes are what provides the increased travel and sensitivity but, more importantly for someone like me who's running a coil-sprung shock, increased progression through the stroke. That means less bottoming even though it should feel a bit more forgiving off the top. Sound familiar? If you read my review of the Rallon last year, you might know that I complained about exactly that - it was a bit too linear for the coil-sprung shock that Orbea offers as an option, and it wasn't as forgiving (especially as it's coil-sprung) earlier in its travel, either.

Shoutout to Orbea for not only making changes to address the Rallon's short-comings but also for making the solution retro-fittable to the previous model.
Orbea Rallon R5 Linkage
The different pivot locations provide a different leverage ratio. Orbea says the new link makes the suspension more sensitive while also ramping up more.

Given that bike companies are notoriously good at making sure consumers will want to buy into the latest model, it wouldn't have surprised me in the slightest had Orbea not sold the new linkage separately.

Orbea Rallon R5 Linkage
The new shock yoke keeps the 'LOW' and 'LOWER!' geometry options.

How Hard is the Installation?

Not only is the linkage retro-fittable, but consumers (or a pair of hands they trust) can install it own their own. The job requires the following to complete: 5, 6, and 8mm hex keys, the ability to remember 'lefty loosey, righty tighty,' and a rubber mallet or another non-marring motivator.

Is it difficult? No, not at all, but you'll need to be nice to the aluminum pivot hardware and pay attention to what went where. If you're competent enough to install an internally-routed dropper post, change your bottom bracket, and cook yourself a decent dinner, you'll be able to handle this job. Hell, I can only manage two of those things and I still figured it out, so you'll be fine.

Orbea Rallon R5 Linkage
Orbea Rallon R5 Linkage
Make sure you undo the clamp bolt on the bottom of the rocker (left) before you try to remove it.

Orbea Rallon R5 Linkage
Orbea Rallon R5 Linkage
The two rocker arms lock onto a large, splined aluminum axle that runs through the frame and spins on sealed bearings.

To get the stock linkage off, you'll want to loosen all of the hardware before you remove the shock; trust me, it's easier this way. Once you've done that and slid the shock out (mine was terribly tight at the forward mount due to extra paint build-up around the bolt hole), you can start taking the links off. And, like every full-suspension mountain bike since the beginning of time, there are some pivot spacers to keep track of while you do this.

The two rocker links (the long ones) fit onto the splined aluminum axle that runs through the frame, and a single pinch-bolt on each side keeps everything in place. I loosened one of these bolts and then used a socket and hammer on the same side of the splined axle to slowly separate the two, then I gently tapped the axle out of the opposite link.

All the new parts go back together in the same way, but don't forget that the rocker arms are left- and ride-specific; it'll start to look really strange if you get it backward. If you're having trouble getting those pesky pivot spacers to stay put, a small dab of sticky grease will hold them in place and free-up a hand. This is also the time to clean and re-grease all the bits, and to make sure that the large bearings in the Rallon's seat tube are still spinning smoothly - mine still feel like new.
Orbea Rallon R5 Linkage
With the rocker arms off, you can gently tap the aluminum axle out of the frame.

Is it an All-New Rallon?

The revised linkage doesn't drastically change the Rallon's character - it still feels like the big-hitting all 'rounder that it is - but the update does do exactly as it says on the box. There's the bump in rear wheel-travel from 150mm to 160mm, sure, but it's how things change at the beginning and end of the stroke that's more interesting. For comparison's sake, I kept the Fox shock's settings identical to how it was run with the old linkage. This actually gave me the same amount of sag as I also weigh a nip less than when I first reviewed the Rallon.

Orbea Rallon R5 Linkage
New linkage, who dis? Now quite, but there's a difference in how the Rallon's suspension performs.

Here's what I had to say about the Rallon's suspension when I reviewed it last June: ''It also didn't feel overly supple, however, even with the coil-sprung X2, which is the flip-side to that great on-power performance. I felt like there was a bit more feedback coming up through the pedals than I expected, even with the shock's compression damping backed out, but it's not harsh enough for me to use that word - harsh - to describe the action. Instead, I'll call it a bit less active than some, but not all, enduro bikes.''

With the new linkage installed, the back of the Rallon is certainly a touch more active and forgiving. It's not as drastic as, say, the difference between air-sprung and coil-sprung, but the bike is now as sensitive as I'd expect it to be with Fox's X2 shock doing the work. Now it feels coil-sprung, whereas I wasn't getting that kind of action from it previously. And, just as importantly, the bike still doesn't act like a stuck-in-the-mud enduro rig; it has stayed relatively sporty given its intentions.

Back to that review, I also wanted more bottom-out resistance with the coil-sprung shock that I (and others) chose to spec it with: ''That said, with 30-percent sag, I probably felt bottom a few more times than I expected to, and on smaller impacts than what should be gobbling up all of the X2's stroke.''

This complaint is mostly looked after, too, as the Fox shock is now less likely to reach the end of its stroke when it shouldn't. That said, it could use even more progression, especially given that the X2 is relatively easy to bottom compared to other coil-sprung shocks.

I suspect that Orbea had to make sure the new link would also play nice with air-sprung shocks that inherently ramp-up, and adding too much progression might keep some riders from getting full-travel with them. The new linkage is an improvement, but it also shouldn't keep air-sprung shocks from getting all of their stroke.
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Orbea Rallon R5 Linkage
More sensitive suspension action should me more traction and less fatigue.

While all of the above makes sense, I couldn't reconcile my Rallon's geometry with the numbers that Orbea said the new linkage provides. According to them, there shouldn't be any change to the geometry with the new linkage installed and the stock, 160mm-travel Fox fork still on. With the old links, the head angle measured 65-degrees bang-on, as expected with it in the 'LOWER!' geometry setting. With the new links installed 30-minutes later, I used multiple angle-finders (digital and analog) multiple times and every one of them told me the bike now has a 64-degree head angle. Yes, they were all zeroed. Suspecting that the vast amounts of energy drinks I consume have finally gone to my brain, I had someone else go through the same routine only for them to get the same result.

Many of my local trails lose elevation quicker than an elevator shaft, so I'm not exactly bummed about the slacker front-end given that it's probably going to save my ass at some point soon. It also makes the bike a touch more relaxed at speed, as you'd expect, and technical climbing a bit less relaxed. And don't forget that the Rallon's seat angle also gets a bit slacker, which isn't ideal.

Orbea's response regarding the geometry change: ''After checking head angles and bottom bracket heights of two bikes outside the factory with iPhone clinometers and a third inside the Orbea facilities with much more accurate measurement tools, we were unable to reproduce any of the geometry changes mentioned in the article. We are investigating further with Mike to see what might be giving a 1º variation from our engineering designs and subsequent measurements, but since that change would require a fairly massive bottom bracket drop or fork height increase, we remain confident in our assertion that the new linkage will not alter your frame’s geometry.

What we can wholeheartedly confirm is that the improvements in feel are subjective but noticeable and we are extremely happy that Mike and other testers have reported the same increase in traction and mid/end stroke support with the 2020 Rallon and new linkage assembly. Rally On!


+ Improved suspension sensitivity
+ Increased bottom-out resistance
+ Slacken's geometry by 1-degree

- Slacken's geometry by 1-degree

Pinkbike's Take:
bigquotesSo, if you already own a Rallon, does the new linkage make sense? If you use your Rallon as a long-legged all-mountain machine and don't point it down anything too rowdy, it's $299 USD that you probably don't need to spend. But it could be a worthy upgrade if you're more into going as fast as you can, or as steep as you can, and especially if you've spec'd your Rallon with a coil-sprung shock. Mike Levy


  • 88 1
 Orbea has done what any other brand have done (or very little)

They’ve developed a new linkage for their riders, and now, they sell it, even for previous years bikes.

When I had a canyon I knew (and it’s confirmed) that joe Barnes raced the spectral with a different linkage, that was never sold.

Nowadays also the specialized racers use different linkage on their stump jumpers that gives them that extra travel, instead of getting the spesh enduro.

And there are more and more examples like this.

Brands out there, if your riders request something, maybe your clients do too!

And the fact that orbea is selling this linkage to 2018 and 2019 models it’s great!
They could have just changed the frame slightly call it a new bike and get rid of previous owners.
  • 12 1
 with the Stumpjumper, they just cut out the spacer which anyone can do or run a 55mm shock instead of the 50mm.
  • 13 0
 Pivot sold the updated linkage they made for Bernard Kerr for the original Mach 6. I have it and it’s worth it.
  • 4 0
 Props to Intense too for doing the same thing with their Recluse link upgrade for the Spider 275c.
  • 2 0
 Really cool thing to do. Have been thinking about one for a while, seeing things like this really helps sway the purchasing decision.
  • 5 0
 Remember back in the day when everyone (including me) put the 650b enduro shock yoke on their 29ers? Dramatically improved that bike.
  • 3 0
 @hamncheez: Specialized didn't have the geo anywhere it should have been on the first gen Enduro 29ers. Even the current Enduro is outdated and why I went to the SJ EVO. I heard the new Enduro should be a good one.
  • 6 0
 @jaydawg69: Ya, I agree. The problem was that in 2012 "prevailing wisdom" said that 29ers were too laggy and slow, and made for bikes with too long of wheelbases. Specailzed had to have that stupid steep head tube angle and high BB so that it felt like a 26 in the parking lot. No one would have bought a 65 degree HTA 29er back then.

How do you like your SJ Evo? I hear rumors of people putting a longer stroke shock on the rear that increases the travel to about 155mm and increases the progressivity as a side benefit.
  • 5 0
 @hamncheez: I'm almost 5'9" and on a S3 29er. Got a Smashpot at 160 and an EXT rear coil at 154mm with DH tires. It's a beast that smashes things and pedals quite nicely.... What S should have come out with 2 years ago but at least they are ahead of the others (big players) in terms of pushing the geo envelope. Took awhile to get the cockpit feeling good... found I needed to have more weight forward to make it feel optimum. Coming from years of 27.5 Enduro's at a M size.
  • 11 9
 @jaydawg69: The first Enduro 29 when it came out, was one of the best if not the best 29” trail bike. I rode a few back then, and it was fricking amazing. I also rode one 2 years ago and I personally considered it as excellent. Modern version is fine for me as long as I down size. The idea that modern gigantic bikes are so bloody awesome especially in case of long travel 29ers that have sht loads of gyroscopic effect, stabilizing the bike the faster you go is rather messed up to put it mildly. If someone has no clue about cornering, styling it in the air, then yeah he may as well sit on his arse through straight lines through a rock garden and talk about being faster than on their previous bike.
  • 11 3
 @WAKIdesigns: you don't know what your talking about on this one. The first Enduro 29 had a XC headangle, too short of stays, too high of BB, too linear suspension, too short of reach, too slack seatpost angle and the list goes on. The newer ones and the SJ EVO are light years ahead in every way. You are either high, drunk or ignorant.
  • 5 0
 @jaydawg69: While true, Waki is also right that it still was one of, if no the best full sus 29er out at the time. The 29er Stumpy had a road bike HTA!

However, in 2014 the BMC trailfox came out. It had garbage CTD suspension that made it ride like a 120mm bike, but size large had a 470mm reach, 435mm chainstays, and a steep for the time 74.5 degree STA. It was the first 29er to surpass the Enduro. The HTA was still XC at 67 degrees, but I picked one up two years ago and put a 1.5 degree angleset in it and a longer travel fork. My phone says its at 65 degrees in the HTA, and I still ride it and put it against any modern Rimpo, Hightower, etc in the handling department. I have to slide my seat al l the way forward to emulate a steep STA, but it still rips (once you put modern suspension on it)
  • 6 0
 Spesh did this with the 2017 to 2018 enduro. They sold their yoke and bearing kit for £50 / $50.

Sorry, but $299 is a rip off....
  • 1 0
 I'm not sure Joe Barnes used a different linkage at all. He ran a 65mm stroke shock (spacer removed) for 150mm travel, the 2018 bikes had a 60mm stroke. 2019 Spectrals have the 65mm stroke and the 150mm travel, people can remove the spacer on their 2018s for more travel.
  • 7 14
flag WAKIdesigns (Jul 5, 2019 at 14:58) (Below Threshold)
 @jaydawg69: heh, I know exactly what I am talking about. Joeymetrons are for fast wannabies. Fast men club doesn’t care and actually enjoys flippy bikes. Only Joeys like owner of zupa long brand are after super long and slack stuff. People who know, know that Stumpy Evo went too far and is nothing more but an interesting experiment
  • 4 1
 @WAKIdesigns: I have a SJ EVO and have had all the Enduro's. It's not even close to be going to far and look at the bikes from a couple of years ago to now and see what the bikes look like in few more years. SJ isn't an experiment, wait and see what the next Enduro will be like. Expand your mind....
  • 1 0
 @jamesdunford: incredible bike. It’s almost a s good as my Maiden downhill, and will climb up anything, and climb it efficiently. It is however a monster of a bike and does not like to change line when up to speed. I have a new Occam on order, though!
  • 26 3
 This oughta give them the marketplace leverage they need. Truly shocking update. Linkage.
  • 12 0
 Well it's always nice to know you're nearly-new bike isn't out of date. Good times.
  • 1 0
 Hahaha. You have to admit bicycles have improved over the years though. That's no simple feat in my opinion. I said this recently, "why would they improve?" it seems counter intuitive, like time goes by, and they're getting better. That's like 30 years go by, and you're better than ever.
  • 2 0
 We look after you Alan
  • 14 1
 Mike levy, same sag due to weigh lost. Smooth humble brag.
  • 2 1
 Indeed. I was going to ask how he can afford to lose weight.

For old time's sake:
  • 8 0
 I'm really liking what Orbea is doing. The Occam seems great for where I live now, and it makes me think well of them as a company that they are making this available for retrofit. They'll definitely be on the demo list when I'm next in the market for a new bike.
  • 9 0
 You weigh a nip less? What kind of accident takes a nipple?
  • 4 0
 a bdsm accident
  • 4 0
 I have a 2018 Rallon R5. Really love the bike. I was thinking the other day that a touch more travel with a bit more sensitivity off the bottom would be great. And here it is! Thanks to Orbea for taking care of their current customers! As long as I'm asking for stuff, how about a repaint program?
  • 3 0
 Also wondering, how changing the fork changes the head angle?

The 160 fox 36 leaves 1cm unused,
I guess the 170 fox 36 uses the full stanchions so shouldn’t change the head angle right?
  • 1 0
 Dude... I've always thought I never quite bottomed out my 160mm 36. This changes everything!
  • 5 0
 No, the 170mm 36 does have a taller static axle to crown. Still doesn't quite use all the stanchion.
  • 2 0
 @toddball, I thought so too! Try removing all the air! Hahahaha!!!!

@hab19: that makes sense then! Hahaha I’ll probably upgrade the fork to 170 when doing the service
  • 8 2
 $300 though.. Just like the head angle, that's steep..
  • 8 7
 No it's not. In either case.
  • 7 1
 @nouseforaname: I must be poor then cuz $300 for a piece of linkeage is ridiculous to me
  • 3 0
 @nouseforaname: Considering that if you are buying this it means you already dished the money out on this expensive bike, then yes I would say it's too much $
  • 2 0
 Yea especially when bikeyoke make modded links for 1/3 or the price, and specialized sell their links for 1/6-1/3 of the price. $299 is a joke.
  • 6 1
 So if it slackens the head and seat angle will it also lower the bottom bracket?
  • 1 1
 Most likely
  • 1 2
 In the article it states that the geometry is unchanged if you leave the fork at 160mm, so I think the slacker head angle and seat angle is coming solely from the move to a 170mm fork, meaning that those changes would be accompanied by a higher bottom bracket.
  • 3 0
 ...maybe I should have read the whole article before I commented... woops
  • 2 0
 I could be wrong.. but does the description of the picture with the 2 linkages get them reversed? looking at the linkage in the box (pictured in this article), and looking at the linkages on the bikes on Orbea's website, it seems Mike accidentally got them mixed up. Now what's REALLY confusing is that the linkage box has the (presumably) new linkage in the box, and the old linkage pictured on the packaging. This is the same as what's pictured on Orbea's website, so it's not just Mike putting the old one in the box. I'm confused lol.

ps. BikeRumor has them reversed
  • 5 0
 Top spec Rallon - $14,000 Canadian Pesos =0
  • 1 0
 Entry level one is an amazing build and can be gotten for a very competitive price in Canada. My LBS brought one in for me and its a very competitive price.
  • 3 0
 @ratedgg13: Entry level build is $7,400. Not an impressive spec at that price point imo.
  • 1 0
 @jawzzy3: Huh, never saw the price on the Canadian site before. My LBS gave me a much better deal on it by the looks of things.
  • 5 3
 Wait, so I could buy this linkage and update my current bike?! If only companies, cough Santa Cruz, would do this instead of making very small changes, unnoticeable to most riders, to sell a "new" bike.
  • 2 0
 There is an aftermarket link for nomad 4, Bronson soon also I here. Check out the forums.
  • 1 1
 @noplacelikeloam: voids the warranty. When the factory sells it, you're good to go.
  • 1 0
 More companies should do this in the interim when they are not releasing a new bike. I'm sure there are a lot of frames out there that could squeeze more travel out of their bikes or make a linkage to tweek the geometry more. Options, more options is good.
  • 1 0
 So I managed the linkage change with the method Mike Levy described in the article on the new link and wanted to share my experience:
With the 6mm bolt in the linkage arm on the drive side loosened I used a socket to engage with (a part; maybe 30%) of the spindle face. I then used a hammer to tap the spindle out which at first required a bit more effort than I thought it would have. I had to also tap the spindle out of the non drive side bearing where it obviously also set pretty snugly. Reinstalling was then easy.

Honestly, I find it pretty dumb that you have to do these botch jobs on fancy expensive bikes. Cranks on BB spindles have been around forever and there are specific tools and methods to remove them without hammers, marring the face of delicate parts or excessive axial loading of roller bearings. Maybe I'm missing something but I think Orbea screwed up the maintenance and replacement in the engineering of this linkage which is pretty lame.

Secondly, why are there no instructions or at least recommendations on Orbeas website on how to do this? When I wrote them about this, their answer was that without knowing exactly the state of the bike, they could not recommend anything and that I should go to a shop. Again pretty lame.

Finally, the only part of hte linkage set which is actually different from the original are the actual links... which can be bought separately and much cheaper than the whole box. Everything else is the same so save your cash.

I recall having written Rocky many times regarding mods, specs, replacement parts and methods and their answers were much more helpful....maybe I get a Rocky again for my next bike...
  • 1 0
 Overall though did you think it was worth upgrading? I'm debating getting it now and I'm trying to see if people have actually enjoyed the difference it makes.
  • 1 0
 That's a lot more progression (like more than double) than the orig.
How many volume spacers are in my shock I wonder...I don't think I have enough to remove
  • 2 0
 That's cool, I didn't consider the Rallon last year because it's not progressive enough.
  • 3 1
 "Slacken's geometry by 1-degree"
Sounds more like a pro for me. Wink
  • 3 0
 except seat angle.
  • 11 0
 @jaydawg69: @ollinist: And this is why it's in both categories...
  • 1 0
 If the head angle is 64 with a 160mm fork, it will be even slacker with the longer fork
  • 2 0
 ...two words, @mikelevy, "nail brush".
  • 2 0
 That's a great one!
  • 2 0
 Next year 170 mm link incoming.
  • 1 0
 Well 169.98 to be precise ;-)
  • 2 0
 Why didn't they annodise the part purple!
  • 1 0
 I bet a lot of people would pay an extra 200 to get it in a custom colour, as they already offer for the frame. If it was anodized it could be re-anodized into a different colour, but since it's painted there's more work involved and it might not turn out as good.
  • 1 0
 @DavidGuerra: you could get the linkage powder coated In your fave colour for 50$. A whole frame can be powder coated ( where I live ) for 150$.
Run the parts through a tumbler and annodise pretty simple .
  • 2 0
 What about anti squat, pedal kick back?
  • 2 0
 Honestly, I have NEVER noticed the pedal kick back on mine. I think its a much bigger problem in theory than in practice.
  • 1 1
 I don't know why they design kinematics with such ludicrously high AS numbers. Someone should get them to do a DH run with the chain off on the new Occam to see how good it could be.
  • 2 0
 @jclnv: An anti-squat that goes below 100% can never be considered "ludicrously high". It's high because it only gets to the sub 100% part on the last quarter of the travel. That's with a 32t chainring, with a larger one it might get pretty close to ideal. Which to me is going below 100% slightly above the sag point (33% of the travel).
  • 1 0
 @DavidGuerra: I'd be happy with 90% and tapering down at sag but I'd still be happier with your preference over Orbea's. It's a real shame as the new Occam is almost perfect sizing/geo wise for me.
  • 2 0
 @jclnv: but what exactly is the problem with pedal kickback? Again, in the real world of riding the bike, it's literally unnoticed. Thus far, this sounds a bit like an armchair engineer complaint more than a real problem.
  • 1 0
 @ratedgg13: It robs sensitivity. I would trade pedalling efficiency for suspension sensitivity all day long.

See the below from Bike Radar.

There can be a downside to high levels of anti-squat.

The chain-pull force relies on the cassette moving away from the chainring as the suspension compresses — this is known as chain growth. Most of the time, the cassette will simply rotate forwards to allow the chain enough slack for the suspension to compress.

However, if the cassette can’t spin forwards because the rear wheel is locked up, or is spinning more slowly than the cassette needs to in a sudden compression, the crank will be forced to rotate backwards. The movement of the crank in the case of a non-rotating cassette is known as pedal kickback. The angle through which the cranks rotate relative to the mainframe as the suspension compresses can be calculated using suspension software, or measured.

The more chain-pull anti-squat a bike has, the more pedal kickback it generates. These terms can roughly be thought of as two names for the same thing. So for bikes that don’t use an idler pulley, the amount of pedal kickback is proportional to the anti-squat.

For bikes with high pedal-kickback values, its effect can occasionally become noticeable – especially on rough tracks with lots of sudden impacts or when hitting bumps with the rear wheel locked up.

It’s also noticeable when climbing. As the chain is always under tension when pedalling, the anti-squat by definition resists the suspension’s movement. So bikes with high anti-squat can be harsh and unreactive when pedalling over bumps.

For many riding situations, pedal kickback in itself is not something you’re likely to notice. But the more chain growth/pedal kickback you have, the more the chain, cassette and derailleur cage have to move in order to allow the suspension enough slack chain to react. This can have a detrimental effect on suspension sensitivity, especially when using a clutch mech.

But does this matter? Just ask Aaron Gwin. When he won the 2015 Leogang World Cup without a chain he was heard remarking to his team mate Troy Brosnan: “The suspension works so good with no chain!” While by no means a scientific assessment, this passing comment highlights the effect chain-pull can have on suspension sensitivity. If you want proof, try riding chainless.

So there’s a balance to be struck here; more anti-squat generally means greater pedal-efficiency, but tends to mean worse sensitivity.
  • 1 0
 @jclnv: I understand the theory fine, I just think that for riders outside of (for example) Gwins level of riding, it's irrelevant. Any bike is going to have better suspension action without a chain, but can the average rider tell on any given trail? And if it's such a big deal to you, sounds like you should just buy a bike with a high pivot idler (like the Forbidden Druid) rather than complain about anti squat on a bike that's designed around it...
  • 1 0
 @ratedgg13: Unfortunately designed with too much of it as they nailed everything else on the Occam. It's easy to feel and it's the reason why many still ride Specialized's with low AS.
  • 1 0
 @jclnv: have you ridden an occam? I mean i honestly cannot feel it on my Rallon, hence my claiming that it's only a flaw for armchair engineers and not in the real world.
  • 1 0
 @ratedgg13: No, I haven’t but I’ve ridden enough higher AS bikes in the past to know that chain effects can easily be felt. How much do you weigh? I’m 67 kilos and find that lighter riders can feel AS and leverage rate changes easier.
  • 1 0
 @jclnv: touché, I'm 80kg on an XL frame. For me, I can't honestly notice any difference in sensitivity or pedal kickback in the Rallon from most other bikes I demo'd, but it did pedal and fit much much better. It certainly hasn't slowed me down on big terrain, so I suppose for bigger riders like me it's a moot point.
  • 1 0
 @ratedgg13: I'm jealous! I honestly wish I had the mass to overcome those forces. Rallon's are sweet.
  • 1 0
82kg rallon 5 xl rider here. I really like the bike, but i can feel pedal kickback. One solution is to ride in easy gear when facing big hits, another is to mount bigger chainring at front..
Capra 29 and jekyll 27.5 have definitely less kickback but they ride uphill like sh1t compared to Rallon. It is definitely a preference thing..
  • 1 0
 @mikelevy did the bottom bracket go lower again? Any idea of the BB drop / height with the new link?
  • 1 0
 Could have saved a lot of money just doing all this last year before rolling this model out in the first place.....
  • 2 0
 very cool
  • 1 0
 Still no xxl and Alu modelFrown
  • 3 0
 maybe not but Lifetime frame warranty is sweet for their sensible pricing.
  • 1 0
 the wife says 10mm make a huge difference
  • 1 0
 Waitin on the BKXC review
  • 5 1
 You want to know what a guy with average ability at best thinks of it?
  • 1 2
 Wow. I wish Trek would do the same thing for the slash!
  • 1 1
 The Slash is ~30%. It's perfect already. Wink
  • 4 7
 Cool EVO...
  • 5 0
 Except that it predates the stumpy...
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