Review: WTB's New CZR i30 Carbon Wheels

Aug 17, 2021
by Mike Kazimer  


WTB launched their CZR rims late last season, but at the time there weren't any pre-built wheel sets to go with them. That's not a big deal if you're a wheelbuilding wizard, or have a trustworthy mechanic at a local shop to turn to, but not all riders have the skills or patience to go that route. That's why WTB now offers the CZR i30 wheels, which use those distinctive-looking carbon rims laced up to WTB's Frequency hubs with 28 double-butted spokes and brass nipples.

The 29” wheels are aimed at trail and enduro riding, and according to WTB, they were designed with a focus on strength rather than achieving a specific weight target, although the 1884 gram figure on the scale is fairly typical for carbon wheels in this category.

CZR i30 Details

• Intended use: trail / enduro
• 29" only
• Carbon rims, asymmetric design
• 30mm internal rim width
• 28 spokes, brass nipples
• WTB Frequency hubs, 5-degrees between engagement points
• Weight: 1884g; front: 871g / rear: 1013g
• MSRP: $1,600 USD
www.wtb.com

The front wheel is priced at $749.95, and the rear goes for $849.95, with either a SRAM XD or Shimano Microspline driver body.

WTB covers the wheels with their 'Ride With Confidence Guarantee', which says that if the wheels break during a ride then they'll replace them for free. The terms are a little different if you run them over, or forget they're on your roof when you hit up the Wendy's drive-through. In those cases, WTB offers the rim replacement for 50% off of MSRP.

The spoke holes are reinforced with extra carbon.

Details

As the name implies, the CZR i30 rims have a 30mm internal width, and use a hookless bead. The spoke holes are reinforced with a raised, diamond shaped section of extra carbon to help ensure the spokes don't pull through during hard impacts. The spoke holes are offset, in order to allow for more even spoke tension between the drive and non-drive side spokes.

The wheels come with an extra strip of nylon situated underneath the rim strip that's meant to keep the tape from pushing into the spoke holes, and to keep the air inside your tire even if a spoke breaks and starts attacking the rim tape.

The Frequency hubs use six pawls that are offset into two groups of three, which is how the 36 teeth in the hub shell are able to deliver 5-degrees between engagement points. The wheels ship with heavy duty pawl springs installed that create a relatively loud ratcheting noise while coasting. For fans of quieter hubs, WTB offers a lighter spring kit that reduces the decibel level.



The 36 teeth in the hub shell create 5-degrees of crank rotation before the hub engages.
The Frequency hubs use six pawls set in a two-phase design.


Performance

These days, it's pretty rare for a set of wheels to cause any problems when installing tubeless tires, and that held true with the CZR's. I've had a few different tire setups on these wheels and in all instances the tires settled into place and inflated without a fuss.

Out on the trail, the CZRs felt precise and snappy, the traits that helped carbon wheels gain traction in the first place, while remaining comfortable enough to use on long, rough trails without worrying about getting early-onset arthritis.

I would place the CZR wheels on the stiffer side of the spectrum, at least compared to Zipp's 3Zero Moto wheels or Enve's AM, but they were never uncomfortable or difficult to handle. They feel closer to 'traditional' carbon wheels versus the more compliant options that have been hitting the market, but they're not unduly harsh or jarring in chunky terrain. As far as hub engagement goes, the 5-degrees between engagement points was quick enough for my tastes, and I didn't encounter any unwanted popping noises or skipping from the freehub.

The graphics are nice and low-key - there aren't any garish logos to be seen.

Both wheels are still spinning true, and they've been smashed and bashed down plenty of rough trails. I did have one pinch flat that came from smacking a very sharp rock that was (im)perfectly placed in the middle of a big G-out, although I think it fair to chock that one up to a tire casing issue rather than the rim design.

Conditions have ranged from dry to drier, so I can't really comment on how the hub will hold up to a few months of splashing through hub deep pedals – I'll update this review if any issues arise. The hub internals looked decent when I pulled it apart for photos, although a little more grease wouldn't hurt – something to consider if you live in an extra-wet zone.



How Do They Compare?

The above chart lays out a handful of options that fall into the same category as the CZR i30 wheels. The CZR's price tag makes them the most expensive non-North American made wheelset on the list - the Zipp and Enve wheels are made in the United States, and the We Are Ones are made in British Columbia. That doesn't affect the ride quality in the slightest, but there are riders out there who prefer to buy semi-local when possible. I've spent time on every set of wheels on that chart, so which one would I choose? It would really depend on what my top priorities were.

If I was hunting for the most comfortable wheels, price be damned, the Zipp 3Zero Motos are the way to go. The Enves are another compelling option - I'm a big fan of their on-trail feel. They're not as compliant as the Zipps, but they still do a great job of muting trail vibrations, and they're lighter too.

Riders who prefer a more traditional carbon wheel feel, those who want a stiffer, more snappy ride, will find that in the Bontrager and WTB wheelsets. Those Bontrager wheels offer a very good price to weight ratio in this category. The We Are One wheels fall into this category too, and their price can be dropped down by going with Industry Nine's 1/1 hubs instead of the super-fast engaging Hydras.




Pros

+ Solid, snappy ride feel
+ J-bend spokes, brass nipples
+ Subtle graphics and unique rim shape

Cons

- Middle of the road price, weight





Pinkbike's Take

bigquotesThe new CZR i30 wheels are extra regular, and I mean that in the best way possible. I'd much rather have durable rims with J-bend spokes and a straightforward hub design rather than something that's full of proprietary, hard to find parts. I'm a big fan of the subtle graphics, too; I want wheels that simply work, day after day, without announcing themselves to the world. The price isn't totally out of the ordinary, but I do wish it was a little lower, if only to set these hoops apart from their made-in-North America competitors.  Mike Kazimer








146 Comments

  • 154 4
 Alternate use #1: spin the rear wheel fast enough to shred lettuce to make a perfect CZR salad.
Bonus: Dressing will also lube your drivetrain.
  • 18 0
 You hittin the sauce, Bro?
  • 7 2
 That was excellent! Someone get this man the crown of laurels that he deserves.
  • 1 0
 @kcy4130: I thought is was pretty egg salad myself
  • 2 0
 @jesse-effing-edwards: Just coffee...which is enough sometimes.
  • 40 0
 Be interesting to see if this romaines to be the top comment by the end of day
  • 8 0
 @bigdood: Kale yeah!
  • 1 4
 Tossing the salad...
  • 8 0
 @steveczech: I just hope Outside continues to leaf the comment section as is and lettuce have our fun, there are always little gems here
  • 11 0
 @jesse-effing-edwards: haters gonna hate, tomatos gonna tomate
  • 2 0
 @bigdood: eggsactly
  • 81 0
 There are three guarantees in life:
1. Death
2. Taxes
3. At least one person in the comments section of a carbon wheel review on Pinkbike will say they can get 511s laced to 350s for $500.
  • 1 0
 I appreciate that it beats the Session lookalike theme Big Grin
  • 52 4
 Yeah no thanks. I'd spend $40 extra and get some We Are One Unions with Hydras.
  • 129 7
 I'd spend $1000 less and get aluminum
  • 8 0
 @stumphumper92: Yes totally.
  • 10 0
 @stumphumper92: you’re such a simpleton. I bet you don’t even have aftermarket suspension on your RZR.
  • 3 0
 @stumphumper92: and then they are still lighter…
  • 7 0
 @stumphumper92: I seem to destroy alloy wheels at a rate of about 2/year. Best bike purchase I've made in the last few years is discounted/demo line pro 30s but with full warranty. Fewer trashed rims = more uptime and replacements from trek are fast and free when they do break (twice so far). Plus, I'm not spending my evenings in the garage banging out dents in the hopes a tire will eventually seal.
  • 6 0
 @sspiff: my experience also, aluminum wheels, couple a year. Set of WAO rims going on three years, no issues.
  • 5 0
 Yes! As a Canadian I love to support my Canadian companies like We Are One. Love my Coverts and Hydras. If I cant find a Canadian product I buy American and then go down the chain. WTB could have made it here but chose to go abroad sadly and they are big enough they could have tried to make it in North America at least.
  • 2 0
 @sspiff:
Exactly. The price of carbon pays for itself very quickly.
  • 2 0
 @stumphumper92: ......like some 511's laced to 350's? Big Grin @your-pal-al
  • 1 0
 @conoat: if you don't destroy alloy wheels then good for you, I'm very envious indeed. More power to you brother.
  • 2 0
 @CFR94: it was a joke. scrool up to @your-pal-al comment.

I 100% cannot keep an AL wheel under me for an entire season. I have 4 MTB's and they all have carbon wheels.
  • 39 9
 Just bought for a third of this price EX511 laced with DT Swiss 350 , 28 straightpull, total weight : 1850 grams. Hmm, why then would I pay 3 times for same weight ? Leaves me thinking...
  • 46 5
 So you don't have to buy three sets.
  • 49 0
 Where are these $500 EX511’s on 350’s everyone’s talking about? Best price I could find in the US was $700 built.
  • 15 0
 Carbon wheels don't go out of true as easily, but that's quite a price to pay just for some convenience! I'm biased toward alloy if you couldn't tell lol
  • 13 0
 Not to mention the EX511s are pretty bomb-proof.
  • 2 4
 @jeremy3220: you can easily get 2 sets of them and they still be cheaper than those carbon WTB. Not to mention that DT EX rims are tough as f*k.
  • 2 3
 @lkubica: it's a joke
  • 2 1
 @aharms: They don't go out of true but they do snap. I'll take a slight buckle every time
  • 1 1
 This is hard to digest as well. I have 511's on 350's and for teh past 3 years, over 6000k and dozens of park days, they are still in good shape, I'm a heavy rider too. Once a year re-true and 2 spoke replacements total. I bet the carbon wheel feel a lot nice when putting the power down though.
  • 5 0
 Yup. Or if you want carbon, USA made Nox plus dt350 sp are like 1400. I have a set of teocalis around 1530g. Could go to the bombproof farlows if you run larger than 2.4s and still be around 1700g.
  • 1 1
 @zamanfu: bike24.com If you lace your own wheels costs even less
  • 6 0
 I didn't realize wheels were a commodity valued by lowest $/gram alone. News to me.
  • 7 0
 As a heavier rider, I put aluminum rims out of true / destroy them so often that carbon is well worth the entry price.
  • 4 0
 A couple of years back I got a pair of Chinese carbon rims beefed up to Enduro, laced to DT350 and Sapim spokes with brass nipples, total weight 1724g, price for the complete set, less than 600€. Wheels are still running strong.
I really don't get how are they getting these prices and those weights.
  • 3 0
 @Mesmomesmo:
I don't know about these particular brands but there is definitely a number of bike companies buying stuff from alibaba and selling it with their own logo with a big markup. youtu.be/-bb7eCgLbLI
  • 1 1
 adespotoskyli thanks
  • 1 0
 @zamanfu: I've actually found it here on PB comment section. There are some great polish guys that make custom wheels at unbeatable prices. @lkubica knows what I'm taking about those guys at fitwheels.
  • 2 0
 @zamanfu: it was never $500. high $500's maybe from some turn and burn internet source. but even that is dead now.

$700 is the new $500!- Federal Reserve
  • 1 0
 @adespotoskyli: I don't know, just checked on bike24: 2x 29" 511s 32h + 2x front and rear 350s boost hubs + 64x DT competition and aluminum nipples were 450 euros. And you're missing rim tapes, valves and delivery.
So that's already more than the 500$ price point.
  • 1 1
 @lkubica: that works great if you're in Poland!. shipping and VAT are going to destroy your pricing structure
  • 1 0
 @lkubica: Thanks for the link. Not in the market for a wheelset right now, but at that price I'll sure keep it in mind.
  • 3 0
 @conoat: No, that's great if you are in EU Wink
  • 1 1
 @lkubica: so, great if you're part of the 9% of the global MTB market?
  • 2 1
 @conoat: thank god UK is 0.9% then Jail . In the meantime you can get those "local" Hunt ones Facepalm
  • 1 0
 @bogdanc: I am actually American, so more like 35%. just here for a year or two to make a bunch of money. cheers!
  • 1 0
 @gui21st: nahh, I have plenty of valves and tape laying around. So it's just delivery for me. Even at 465 euros a pair of rock solid wheelset is a bargain don't you thing?
  • 1 0
 @adespotoskyli: Not saying otherwise. But that 500$ price point everyone is bragging about is really the very best case scenario. Only on that polish website did I see those wheels at that price, and we're talking straightpulls and 28h.

But yes, a solid build for that kind of money anyways.
  • 1 0
 @gui21st: wheel builders de is another option for a tad more so options are there. Not trying to bash anything but still trying to figure out the triple cost. I've just added a set of tannus inserts so I can ride everywhere without worrying for anything.
  • 13 0
 When it comes to wheel set weight what matters most of all is not total weight (yes, I realize this also matters) so much as the rim weight. Would be cool to see this included in the comparison table as the rim is the component furthest from the center of rotation and therefore has a disproportionate impact on how the wheel set will feel under power.
  • 4 0
 weights listed here:
www.wtb.com/collections/enduro-gravity-rims/products/czr-i30

Wheel Size Inner Width *Weight Spoke Holes / Offset ERD Tubeless Tape Width Rim Size Designation Max Rider Weight Part Number
29" 30mm 472g 28-hole / 5mm 589 35mm 30-622 300 lbs W020-0607
29" 30mm 484g 32-hole / 5mm 589 35mm 30-622 300 lbs W020-0608
  • 8 4
 Yeah, a carbon rim weights 470g, an aluminium rim weight say 570g, your tyre weights 1000g. So you have just paid extra $1000 for 100/1500 = 6% rotational weight reduction.
  • 6 0
 @lkubica: Yes and like he said, because of where that weight is... 6% is actually a noticeable number. I'm generally not concerned about my bike's overall weight but I do pay more attention to trying to keep my wheelsets/tires weight as low as I reasonably can with cost and reliability factored in, because even small weight differences here make a noticeable difference.

I've gone back down to a lighter rim (with light CXray spokes), EXO+ tires and Tannus Tubeless Armour inserts. The light yet robust inserts work so well for me it's allowed me to run a lighter rim and tire carcass. Going from DoubleDown and a more beefy rim, let me drop around 360 grams or just over 3/4 of a pound. When you drop that from big spinning 29" wheels... you definitely feel it!

In saying that... would I spend for carbon rims just to get that lighter weight?... No. I don't tend to damage rims (as long as I'm running a proper tire or insert), and there are fantastic alloy options at half (or less) the cost, at basically the same weight.

But I also do get and have a friend who absolutely destroys wheels. He used to go through 3 to 5 alloy rear rims a season. He went to carbon a couple years ago and has cracked one which was replaced quickly and easily as no cost. So he has saved money, headache and lots of time.
  • 3 0
 I'm totally on board with running a lighter carbon rim to counter some of the larger tyre weight. Recently acquiring a bike with 2.6" tyres, switching out to my lighter XC 2.2" tyres completely woke the bike up!
  • 1 3
 @islandforlife: The fact you can feel something does not mean it is there ot it has any significant contribution to how the bike behaves. Remember, that when we consider acceleration we accelerate bike, wheels and the rider simultaneously. So 6% in rotating mass translates to 0.5% overall acceleration ... There are also many psychological effects to putting pricey and light component on your bike. 99% people will tell you they can feel the difference, which does not mean that this translates to riding speed in any way.
The only real benefit of carbon wheel it that they simply stay true no matter what.
  • 1 0
 @lkubica: I'm gonna need some source on how 6% rotating mass translates to 0.5% improvement in acceleration.

Key example: the day after I installed cushcore I could ABSOLUTELY feel the difference while climbing/accelerating.

Yes, I understand that cushcore are heavy (260 gr/insert). Regardless, the rotational weight can easily be felt, even in only one wheel.
  • 2 0
 @KJP1230: I am too lazy to calculate it here, however someone has already did it:
translate.google.com/translate?sl=pl&tl=en&u=uzurpator.com.pl/new_blog/documents/Mit_masy_rotowanej.html

Of course you need to have a lot of assumptions to calculate it. But to sum up: rotating mass stores ~2x the energy of non-rotating mass (this is an extreme oversimplification, but it kind of works for wheels with standard diameter, see the article). But, the rotating mass is a tiny % of total mass you need to accelerate (let's assume it is 85kg, 70kg rider + 15kg bike). So even if 100g on a wheel counts 2x, this gives you 400g of mass increase (you have 2 wheels) which is 0.5% of total mass ...

Honestly, I have installed cushcore and felt a difference. Or at least I think so. But as I said, feeleing the difference is a tricky thing and the perceived difference does not have to translate to real results. On the other hand you accelerate multiple times while riding a bike and this difference can acummulate over time. On the other other hand bike that is slower do accelerate is also slower do decelerate, which means it kind of rolls better over obstacles.
  • 1 0
 @lkubica: Man in all my years and miles of riding I have come to know how rotational weight makes a difference. My 2 HTs, 2 FS, 2 Road bikes, and gravel bike all have upgraded wheelsets and cassettes to reduce rolling mass because of this.

What I've noticed is that heavier rotational mass kinda deadens or slows the bike in acceleration to speed, reacceleration, climbing, steering/handling, and probably a little in braking as well (can't really remember, but I kinda do lol). These are things (not quite on braking) I observe easily now.

When I got my carbon HT last year, I was used to riding my heavier alu one that had nice wheels. I wasn't even aware of the weight of it's wheel/tyre assembly but what I noticed on climbs pushing really hard was that it felt like my power was getting sapped from what I was used to. Turns out the rear OE wheel assembly on my new carbon bike was 515g heavier, that's 1.13lbs just in the rear wheel! A lot of that was stupid NX cassette. Once I upgraded (dropped 426g which is significant) it felt pretty much in line with my other bike as far as putting power down and going.

The biggest difference I found was in my Genius 960 that came with 2.6" tyres and tubes. That rotational mass was extremely obvious. I measured the rear wheel assembly around 3200g LOL. My alu HT rear assembly is 2108g (11-36t XT), and 2197g for the carbon HT w/ 9-46 cassette.

With the OE setup unsprung mass felt heavy, it took a lot of effort to get going and reaccelerate, and handling/responsiveness sluggish. I dropped my XC wheelset/tyre combo and this bike woke the f*ck up! So much quicker to accelerate and so much more responsive in handling and turn in, it's so much better and way more playful.

For the two new bikes I've mainly just bought rear wheels as that's where a ton of the mass is, especially with NX/SX cassettes. You gotta ditch those and get an XD driver and get a lighter cassette as those damned things are like 700g! That's insane! I think this is one of the 1st major upgrades to be done on modern bikes that are equipped that way.

Recently I've been playing around via swapping out Front wheel only with Dissector 2.6 vs wheel with Rekon Race 2.2 on the Genius where there's quite a bit of mass difference (don't have that on hand atm). And there is a big difference between the two, but in a way I was not expecting... which was in steering/handling responsiveness with quicker turn in. Some of the height may also have a play in the quicker turn in.

I also noticed that I tend to ride faster and put down better times with lighter rotational setups. For one it's easier to go faster and this actually inspires your to push harder. There are times where you tend to notice that as well (less effort, more result), it's rewarding. The other part is the bike is more responsive in handling so that's also inspiring!

Gotta think of wheel/tyre assembly as a flywheel/gyroscope. The heavier they are the more resistive they are going to be to any input that changes their current state which is direction change, acceleration, and deceleration. It fights your every input and it's power is mass. The way to weaken it's power is to reduce the mass as much as possible.

And this is why I'm interested in carbon wheels, only if I can reduce z mass enough compared to alu which I also love.
  • 12 6
 I know the downvotes will shower down upon me, but Aliexpress carbon rims are decently light, have a great trail feel, and with good tire inserts like Tannus they can take a beating! (knock on wood, or knock on carbon, I guess wood is carbon fiber...)
  • 4 1
 What brand(s) are on aliexpress? I stick to 'reputable direct' and am currently on Light Bicycle and Tandell rims, and have been for years. Friends have done well on Nextie also. Affordable for carbon, strong, tons of options, and you can customize your wheelset to the nth degree if you don't want to buy complete off their sites. I know local shops that build with these china-direct rims too. I like WTB stuff but can't imagine why the hell anyone would pay 1600 for a ho hum wheelset, though I admit the reinforced holes look cool.
  • 1 0
 @WasatchEnduro: Farsports are less heard of and work really well, but I wouldn’t bother straying from LB as they offer a real lifetime warranty.
  • 3 0
 @WasatchEnduro: BTLOS is another solid chinese carbon direct company
  • 3 0
 @WasatchEnduro: I'm on Light Bicycles too. Very happy.
  • 1 0
 @WasatchEnduro: I bought several from a "reputable" importer, but I'll keep them unnamed, heres why:

www.pinkbike.com/photo/20328394

"What do you expect when you order chineseium Fastace knockoff hubs"? Well, this was after about 40 miles on the wheelset. And more importantly, I didn't order fastace hubs, I ordered Bitex hubs which are actually really good in my opinion. When I contacted this unnamed company, of which I've made multiple orders from, they said "Ya, sorry, with COVID there are supply issues so rather than wait 6 months we just shipped with the next best thing". When I asked why they didn't tell me that, they replied "ya sorry, we need to do better on communication". When asked if I would get a refund for the price difference (they charged more for Bitex than Fastace), and for any help/advice on getting the hub warrantied, I stopped getting replies.

I ended up replacing the rear hub with 350s and wrote it off as a loss.
  • 2 4
 I'll take alloy over some cheap Chinese rims, any day.
  • 3 1
 @nickfranko: Don't know what you're missing.

1. Lighter- even more important if you run tire inserts like Tannus (everyone should be running inserts on any rim, in my opinion)
2. No dents! The last alumium wheelsets I had were both full of dents after 1 season.
3. No sideways flex! I HATE when aluminum rims flex like a sponge on g-out turns. 29ers make this worse.
4. Cost is about the same. If you're running inserts then durability is better because aluminum dents can prevent you from running tubless.
  • 1 1
 @nickfranko:

Affordable but not cheap. Also, necessity is the mother of invention. Like hamsandwich said when I moved to 29 I noticed lotsa disconcerting wheel flex and the additional speed meant more beat to piss rear wheels. With carbon I get better strength and stiffness than alu plus the many 530g alu rims out there weren’t cutting it. I’d need a 600g alu rim for durability and that’s mega noticeable in a negative way over a pair of sub 500g carbon ones at only $100 more than alu per rim. I could get by fine on an alu front but the benefits are noticeably more in the rear for me. Anyways if you’re not thrashing alu rims each season then there may be no case for you to switch. Or maybe you’re a lightweight or just don’t gnar as hard as the PB endurobros.
  • 1 0
 @hamncheez: funny-looking rim

@WasatchEnduro: Aliexpress builds the Hoback 150. Could there be a more heartfelt recommendation?
  • 14 8
 If carbon rims didn't come on my bike, I still wouldn't dish out for a set. Aluminum seems like the way to go. Better flex and cheaper to replace. Also a bonus is you can recycle them.
  • 6 10
flag aharms (Aug 17, 2021 at 8:15) (Below Threshold)
 +1 to this. Sometimes a hit is gonna wreck a rim no matter what it's made of, and I've seen my buddies crack enough rims to know I would probably kill them too. You can bend a dent out of aluminum but you can't bend out a crack.
  • 15 2
 But with many carbon rims you get a free replacement every time you crack/damage it (which prob wont be often). Cheaper in the long run. Different strokes for different folks but carbon doesn't dent like alu does. I'm on season 2 of a carbon wheel set when I replaced alu rims every year (sometimes twice a year) because of denting etc....
  • 2 0
 This reminds me of a good article from Enduro Mag: enduro-mtb.com/en/carbon-myths

A particularly interesting quote: "A product is only sustainable if it reuses its source material. Neither raw aluminum nor raw carbon does. I do not think one is any cleaner than the other (Rojo)...Currently, not even a quarter of the aluminum processed worldwide comes from recycling."

They don't seem to site their sources, so take it with a grain of salt. Interesting nonetheless.
  • 3 3
 @Marky771: Cheaper in the long run? You can get an aluminum rim for under $100. Even if I broke it 5 times I am still paying less than carbon and that's with the cost of having them rebuilt...
  • 1 1
 @Marky771: what about down time waiting for the replacement. Lifetime warranty is nice in thought, but missing a ride on a nice day cause you’re warranty is processing feels like it costs something, eh?
  • 3 0
 @Sleeperific: If you're destroying a carbon wheel, you would have destroyed an alloy one already. Reserve for example get wheels shipped out within 48 hours, and are fully built up so you send in your wheel later on.
  • 1 0
 @stumphumper92: If you move the wheelset to different bikes/builds then yes it's cheaper in the long run. Lifetime for original owner is pretty long. Like I said, not for everyone, but if you go through a couple of alu rims a year (like a lot of guys do in my neck of the woods) it's totally worth it....Theres a lot of great carbon rims out there for $450.....I got a great carbon wheelset for less than an I9 alu wheelset so it was a no brainer for me...
  • 2 0
 @crazyXCsquirrel: what are the sources? I've read from multiple sources that it's cheaper and more economical to recycle aluminum. The soda can or beer can you last drank out of has probably been 5 other pop or beer cans before.
  • 2 0
 @xxinsert-name-herexx: yeah but more plastic garbage in the lanfill, fuel for shipping etc. It's just shit.
  • 1 2
 @Marky771: so you are going to cut out and toss spokes and try sell used hubs? Thars quite the loss. Rebuilding with the original rims is sketchy too. Build any wheels before?
  • 2 0
 @makripper: Hence why I said take it with a grain of salt. I'm honestly surprised they didn't cite any sources. At least none that I could find in the article.
  • 3 0
 @makripper: Cut out spokes and sell used hubs? WTF are you talking about?
  • 3 0
 @crazyXCsquirrel: aluminum recycling has been going down, since ~1990, according to the EPA: www.epa.gov/facts-and-figures-about-materials-waste-and-recycling/aluminum-material-specific-data
  • 1 2
 @Marky771: to reuse rims when your new bike has different hubs like they usually do. Sorry about the common sense. Too hard to sort for some.
  • 3 0
 When I compare the Ibis AL wheels that came on my bike. Weight 1880g. Retail $500. I’ve almost finished 4 seasons riding on them with a couple small truing corrections. I’m 210lbs. Good carbon rims are trying to feel like aluminum rims these days.

Tell me what I’m missing by not spending $1600 for the same weight wheels.
  • 1 0
 @makripper: Ummm, I bought a new bike, sold the alu wheelset that came on it and reused my carbon wheelset I already had..Sorry your brain couldn't handle that common sense.....I always stated "when you move the wheelset" in my comments...Lay off the bong bro.
  • 1 1
 @Marky771: you got lucky and didn't have to change your hubs. Try going for a pivot bike to a specialized.
How do you not understand what I'm saying? To many paint chips?
  • 5 0
 Am I the only one who thinks almost 1900 grams for a 28 spoke 30mm carbon wheeset is heavy?? I'm currently on 28 spoke, 34mm internal and the set weighs under 1600 grams. Assuming mine is on the light side for what most people want, doesn't 1700 grams then seem more reasonable?
  • 1 0
 They're using heavy hubs, nipples, and rims. These 2-1.8-2mm spokes are also the usual, but I built a set on White Industries hubs, 30mm Carbonfan rims, 32 2-1.5-2mm spokes, aluminum nipples, and they're plenty stiff at 1630 grams.
  • 4 0
 I’m not against carbon wheels in general (love them on my xc bike). But for my trail bike I bought Newmen evolution AL 30 with DT Swiss 240 (total weight 1700g) for 590€. I really can’t think of any reason why I should pay more as twice as much for carbon wheels with a higher weight.
  • 8 2
 I love my NextRs. They've saved me from at least 5-6 alloy wheel replacements
  • 6 0
 For $1350 buy the specialized roval control 29er wheelset at 1450g with DT350 hubs, cheaper/lighter.......
  • 6 4
 I've never ridden a carbon rim. For the fans, am I really missing three times the fun to rationalize three times the price and potential catastropic failure. These look nice and love the ol' jbends, but I dont' get carbon rims.
  • 19 1
 I once smashed the bead of an Ibis carbon rim hard enough to break it, and didn't notice for weeks. The wheel was still perfectly true, and the tubeless bead stayed seated. And many companies (like Ibis) have no questions asked replacement policies on carbon, so they just sent me a new rim on warranty. An aluminum rim with that sort of impact would have been possibly unridable, definitely destroyed. Is it necessary no, not at all, but it is an upgrade IMO. I'd rather ride aluminum frame and carbon wheels than vice versa.

TLDR, Carbon is stronger than a lot of people think.
  • 2 0
 @ktpnw: ive done the same thing, cracked a rim and didnt realize it for a few days (while still continuing to ride as if i hadn't cracked it). no questions asked replacement.
every time ive dented an aluminum rim, its left me on the side of the trail seeping air and sealant out, putting a tube in. and then half the time it doesnt even seat tubeless again despite bending it back into place.
  • 3 0
 no. i've ridden carbon wheels made by ENVE, Roval, Ibis, Zipp, and Nox and would say a good set of carbon wheels is awesome but not multiple times better than a good set of alloys. if they were the same price, i'd say give them a try. alternatively, you could pick up a second hand set from a take-off or something, if you happen to be in the need for a new wheelset.
  • 2 0
 for me personally, carbon rims have been more reliable, which provides value to me. I do prefer the carbon feel as well, that is just personal taste and an added bonus when paired with reliability.
  • 1 1
 @twonsarelli:

For the informed carbon hoops are only 2x an alu hoop (tandell, nextie, light bicycle). I've stopped destroying wheels since going to carbon. Agree I've seen awesome take off prices on complete sets.
  • 4 1
 I think the value proposition of carbon really depends on how hard you are on rims. If you are constantly flatspotting and denting alloy like I do (even while running reasonable air pressure). I would replace my rear rim 2-3 times a season on alloy, and with carbon a good rim will last 2+ seasons, before I end up selling the set of wheels. If you aren't a habitual rim dinger however, carbon may not offer the same value.

I too have cracked a carbon rim (Mad Max on the Neilson trail in VBN) and finished the remainder of my riding trip riding the rim, albeit more conservatively. They don't all just crack and implode on themselves catastrophically. I've seen others cracked as well, and typically a bad carbon failure looks a lot better than a completely buckled alloy rim.
  • 1 0
 @privateer-wheels: agreed - i have only broken 1 carbon rim and if it hadn't been for the tire going flat, i wouldn't have noticed until i got home and did a post-ride wash/inspection. good warranty got me up and running again in a reasonable amount of time. in the meantime, i ran alloys and had no problems with them
  • 7 0
 Hail Czr...
  • 8 0
 Go big or go Rome. ...I'll get my coat.
  • 6 2
 Every wheelset review I just scroll down to the price, look up the price of EX511's built on literally any hub then make this comment
  • 4 0
 It’s nice that carbon wheels are starting to grow in quality and decrease in price
  • 2 1
 Nice build, but I agree that they are a little overpriced for being so regular. The Bontrager wheels, for the price, have been good to me for over 2k miles, minus a lot of the alloy nipples popping. I ended up rebuilding them with Sapim spokes and brass nipples, so the weight climbed closer to the WTB, and so did the price after parts.
  • 1 0
 Not sure how to say this, but I am a little suspicious about the free replacement... Have had some experience with other stuff ( Spokes and a Rebound unit) that broke while I was riding and the companies always found a way around they're warranty claims....
  • 9 5
 I'll never understand the less than 32 spokes thing. It's just stupid.
  • 5 1
 30mm internal diameter?! What is this, a wheel for ants?
  • 5 3
 I wonder what they would charge for rims only?

Never mind, quick search reveals $569.95 rim... pass.
  • 2 0
 Cool that they made it…but why would anyone wanna buy these over WAO/Roval/Bontrager/NOBL etc….
  • 1 1
 We need a review where you guys actually try to get your carbon wheels replaced with the warranty. A warranty is near-meaningless if it's a massive pain in the ass to even get the wheels replaced.
  • 1 1
 speaking for the Revel RW30s, I've warrantied 2 rims already, no questions asked, both times it was me being an idiot that caused them to break
  • 1 0
 I've been waiting on a replacement carbon roval since may. I'm told it'll be here early 2022. Luckily I found an alu rim to lace up.
  • 1 0
 My buddy has Bontrager carbon rims he cracked on the same trail two weeks in a row. After the first one he had a rim in days, after the second it took 2-3 weeks. Both free as promised by the manufacturer
  • 1 0
 @makripper: having lifetime warranty rims means you should have a spare set on hand. I have a trusty set of Raceface Turbine Rs, ill never buy superboost for this reason lol
  • 1 0
 With reserve wheels it was a piece of cake. Had my rim in 2 days.
  • 1 0
 WTB better look out, or Sram is going to sue them for that wavy wheel profile! lol
  • 2 1
 Or get I9 Enduro 1/1 for the price of just the front wheel...
  • 1 1
 Do all carbon wheel sets come with a lifetime warranty? If not, a warranty column should be added to the comparison table.
  • 1 0
 These days the vast majority of them do have a lifetime warranty, including all of the options on that list.
  • 1 0
 Stan's Flow CB7 should be included as a comparison. Highly recommend.
  • 1 0
 after killing 4 carbon wheels in 2 months, i dont think ill bother again.
  • 3 3
 WTB tubeless tape is the fucking worst.
  • 2 5
 They look like they would be good mid-spec carbon wheels, but I could buy a decently spec'd, complete commencal hardtail for the same price.
  • 1 0
 commencal has any in stock again?
  • 3 6
 The comparison chart has some incorrect info, the We Are One are lighter than indicated, and the default option is with 1/1 hubs at a much cheaper price
  • 9 0
 That’s the actual weight with rim tape and valve stems, just like all the other weights. And the less expensive 1/1 option is mentioned.
  • 1 1
 I don't, Want To Buy
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