Schwalbe has introduced a new line of lightweight tubes, with options available for everything from mountain bikes to road bikes. The Aerothan tubes aren't made of rubber – instead, they're constructed from a thermoplastic polyurethane, which is said to be more puncture resistant than butyl and latex tubes while offering very low rolling resistance. At 87 grams for the 29” mountain bike version, the weights are impressively low, and the tubes also pack down to a much smaller size than a traditional tube.
Schwalbe produced a batch of lightweight thermoplastic tubes back in 2015, but they weren't satisfied with the durability of those blue tubes, so they went back to the drawing board. According to Felix Schäfermeier, Schwalbe Product Manage, “For five years, we have tested the material in cooperation with BASF and improved it to perfection, exploring a completely new area of technology. This was the only way to surpass apparent obstacles of wanting to combine minimal weight and greatest puncture protection.”
While the weight might be low, that's not exactly the case with the price, at around €28 for the mountain bike versions. Still, considering the weight and space savings it's easy to imagine picking up one to strap to a bike or toss in a pack in case of a flat that plugs can't fix. The tubes are made in Germany, and are 100% recyclable.
More info:
schwalbe.com
Ass God Snake Skin condoms. Coming soon to a rear near you.
I have flattend once (no tube would have survived) and fixed the tube with vinyl repair for pool toys.
For race backup I would rate ease of installation and tubolitos are a bit different and get super slippery with sealant so do a few tube changes to get the feel how they handle differently. I would say a butyl is faster for me still. The tubolitos dont really stretch back after inflation so they handle differently the second time you use them also.
Well it seems to work for most ppl out there. buy zeee sherman produktzzss
If you tape it under the seat or on the frame be sure tu put it in a sealed bag
Learning how to pronounce th etc. is no big deal.
anyways i don't like how english speaking and french people always assume everyone understands them everywhere, actually i don't like people being abroad always expecting everyone to understand them...
I am currently running 3 wheelsets on my slayer and they are all set up tubeless, but I would love some good tubes.
www.nukak.es/en/179-innertube
Going even further, what if the sidewall of a tubeless tire is made of this material. Can you then fix a puncture on the trail with a portable soldering iron? It wouldn't work with the tube (as the material would curl away when it gets hot) but this doesn't go for a tire so it would seem like a convenient way to fix a puncture out on the trail. Unless the escaping air keeps blowing the molten material away of course.
Ok boomer... enjoy your tubes and Motorola StarTac.
£3 for an inner tube that NEVER burps, no mess, change it in 5 mins when I puncture like once every few years............
Oh an no need for expensive tyre inserts
Oh an Gen X BTW
Tubeless is only messy if you have no idea what you're doing. If you do have some idea what you're doing (tubeless is not exactly rocket science, even though some people act like it is) then it's easy, simple, and works amazing.
Tubeless isn't expensive either. Nowadays any kind of half decent rim is tubeless compatible. Wheels and complete bikes usually come with tubeless tape installed. 90% of decent tyres are tubeless ready. You just buy sealant and valves (if the valve wasn't included) and you're good to go.
I don't think you know what tyre inserts are for and what they do.
It's perfectly fine if you run tubes, you can do whatever you want. But i'm fairly sure your negative experiences can be traced back to user error, and I don't think you fully understand what tubeless does and how it works. Same for the comment above. Tubeless adds weight? What?
An air compressor is not necessarily needed, but it makes life easier. Again, you just need to know the right techniques, which is easy because all the information you'll ever need is two clicks away. Put in a tube then break one side of the bead, or pull up the bead of the tyre into the bead of the rim. Done.
Sun ringle' tubeless ready 29 wheel set on my trail/XC bike with Stans fluid an Maxxiss TR tyres, Minion/H'roller combo.26-32psi depending on conditions
9 months. Front was fine, rear would loose around 20psi EVERY ride. would hold pressure fine while the bike was stationary. so no faulty parts or seals. Only explanation, burping like crazy.....
want to change tyres at a race for changing conditions? 5 mins with tubes or a messy hassle with tubeless
inner tube £3.... not all wheels come tubeless ready. an I tend to custom build my own wheels so ADD the cost of the tubeless parts
I know what inserts are for thanx, and |I understand fully how tubeless works. I've been a shop mech a couple of times in my life but,
Thanx for your passive aggressive reply though x
for me personally.......
tubeless just doesn't have any advantage over tubes when I know how to set up tubes correctly an ride with the right tyres an good PSI for the conditions, an also a good few tricks for running tubes without punctures
If you lost 20psi on every ride, then yes, something was faulty. If every tubeless setup burped that much, then no one would run tubeless.
If you burp, it's clearly visible on the tyre, you'll see a bunch of sealant on the side of the tyre and on the bead at a very specific spot. Did you notice anything like that?
I reckon I could easily change a pair of tubeless tyres in 10 minutes without making a mess, and I could re-use most of the sealant. If you make a mess, the problem is you.
It's a nice flex, but being a shop mech means nothing. I worked as a mechanic too, it was my first job ever! I started to work on my own bikes in the first place because when I took my bike to a shop, the "professional mechanics" did such a piss poor job.
If you buy a wheelset nowadays above let's say €150, it will be tubeless ready 90% of the time. I see tubeless ready wheels on entry level MTBs all the time (not talking about Walmart bikes). If you spend the money and time on building a custom wheelset, then I guess you'll use half decent rims, and any half decent rim is tubeless compatible. Tape is dirt cheap, barely more expensive than regular rim tape. Tubeless valves are dirt cheap. If you buy any kind of decent MTB tyre, it's tubeless ready. 473ml of Stans sealant costs €10-15 and it will last you for a long time. Buy a syringe at the local drug store for €1 to avoid making a mess and you're good to go. I just don't see how tubeless is so expensive, especially compared to how much bikes and other bike parts cost.
PSI does nothing against stuff like thorns. Both of my tyres have at least 15 small holes that the sealant sealed. I've pulled thorns out of my tyres multiple times and just kept on going.
Personally I see no good reason to run tubes on a modern mountain bike. There are more negatives than positives.
Feel free to use tubes, I just hope people that are thinking about going tubeless don't read these negatives comments and get the wrong impression. When someone asks about tubeless on a forum or facebook, there are like 30 positive replies about tubeless, but there are always those 1 or 2 guys who say "tubeless is messy, expensive" etc...
I personally have never really ridden tubeless so I'm not going to make any claims here. May 2008 I assembled my current bike and moved from using latex tubes to ProCore and for me it is perfect. I'm not the kind who bothers to try everything that's around to know and claim what's best. But for me it works really well as it is now. Installation and tire swaps is a breeze, can run really low pressure in the tire and no risk to damage the tire doing so. Only downsides I've had is when a thorn punctures both tire and tube. The tire seals but the tube deflates. And as I run quite low pressures in the tires, the lack of support from the tube causes the tire to burp in corners and some landings. So I'm using sealant in the tubes too now, I trust this will solve that last issue. Oh, and previous issue was that the two-way ProCore valve sucks as you can't clean it out. Soon enough I started to use a regular tube and a separate valve for the tire with the airguide over it. Valve holes are four spokes apart. I'm happy the way it works now. Never had to resort to any special pump, tire lever or anything. Though fair enough, the bottle of sealant for the tube did have a sealant injector integrated in the nozzle.
OH an tubless is so great riders carry a TUBE for BACK UP.............
If you don't think that something was faulty, then do you think it's normal for a tubeless rear tyre to lose 20psi each time you ride your bike?
This is what it looks like when a tyre burps, and if you keep riding, a bunch of dirt will stick to the sealant:
forums.mtbr.com/attachments/fat-bikes/921594d1410106995-my-tubeless-leaks-suggestions-tubeless.jpg
Did you see anything like this? Did you notice that you're loosing sealant at an alarming rate? Did you try to diagnose and/or fix the issue, or just kept losing 20psi on each ride for 9 months straight, then switched back to tubes and started leaving comments that tubeless sucks?
You are starting to come up with dumb arguments.
If you don't think that something was faulty, then do you think it's normal for a tubeless rear tyre to lose 20psi each time you ride your bike?.....no obviously I don't think it's normal, think it's pretty shit. Have you NEVER heard of riders burping tyres?
And yes, tubeless is great. But shit happens, sealant can't fix everything, and sometimes you can't fix an issue out in the field. Of course I carry a backup tube (haven't had to use it in ~4-5 years tho). Why is that a big deal? Who said that tubeless is a 100% bulletproof?.... err you, I quote "I rarerly ever burp, other than on the first ride after I install a tubeless tyre."
TUBES NEVER BURP
You are starting to come up with dumb arguments... what ever :'D
However, burping so much that you lose 20psi per ride is not normal at all. Yes, i've heard about people burping tyres, and i've burped tyres myself. But again, 20psi per ride is not normal. Burping should be something that only happens once in a while, and even when it happens, you shouldn't lose 20psi.
We can continue arguing for days. You didn't answer if you tried to diagnose and/or fix your issue like adding more tape to make the fit of the tyre tighter. But you didn't even answer if you actually seen evidence of burping, so who knows what the issue really was. You just started writing in caps and kept repeating that tubes never burp. Very intelligent.
This is just another example of user error. Maybe tubeless tyres should come with an IQ test?
Good luck in life!
It's cool, you guys like 8-track players and velour tracksuits... the world needs luddites too I guess.