SRAM Quietly Launches New DB8 Mineral Oil Brakes

Apr 12, 2022
by Mike Kazimer  

SRAM has a new brake on the way, one that uses mineral oil rather than DOT fluid to activate its four pistons. The DB8 brake will initially be showing up on complete bikes sometime in the near future, but at the moment there's no definitive timeline for when they'll be available aftermarket. When they do finally hit store shelves, they'll be priced at $137 per wheel.

Why mineral oil? After all, every other brake in SRAM's lineup uses DOT fluid, and they've long touted that fluid's benefits. The goal for the DB8 brakes was to create a very low maintenance option, a brake that can be used for more than one season without requiring a bleed.

With their DOT brakes, SRAM recommends bleeding them at least once a year. That service interval is extended to once every two years for the new DB8 brakes, which will be welcome news for riders who'd rather, well, ride, instead of spending time wrenching, and for newcomers to the sport who are still developing their bike maintenance skills.

To avoid any possible contamination, the DB8 brakes use an entirely different bleed kit than SRAM's DOT fluid brakes. They also use Maxima's mineral oil, which is green, instead of the yellow DOT fluid.

The DB8 brake has a similar caliper design to SRAM's Code brakes, and they also use Code pads. The lever feel is said to be similar, although the DB8 brakes do have 10% less power than the Codes. Code brakes will still remain the higher end option, with less seal friction and a higher range of operating temperatures due to the use of DOT fluid.




Posted In:
Reviews and Tech First Looks Brakes SRAM Sram Db8


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357 Comments

  • 298 42
 They literally just made a video relishing the benefits of DOT and saying mineral oil was inferior. We see you Sram. Pinkers never sleep. youtu.be/oF2vAOmplUI
  • 123 15
 They said for high end use/performance, go DOT. These are not their high end brakes.
  • 1043 7
 DOT vs Mineral Oil is such a big “debate” that they named their brake “DB8”
  • 256 7
 Trickstuff use mineral oil. Low end
  • 106 10
 @endorium: to have high end brakes you have to at least have them in the first place.
  • 48 13
 those brake videos they are doing are pretty cool and they did NOT say mineral was inferior. But nice use of exaggerating the truth.
  • 52 13
 @yakimonti: They did say that mineral oil isn't safe to touch the skin (6:46)...which is just flat out false.
  • 35 10
 @yakimonti: they said that brakes which use mineral oil have inferior seals ... so yeah, they said they are inferior ...
  • 29 41
flag tonit91 (Apr 12, 2022 at 11:00) (Below Threshold)
 @abgrant: In fact it's not, ok DOT is much worse but don't think mineral oil is not harmful for your skin or body.
  • 17 10
 @tonit91: recently during servicing a damper I made rookie mistake and got a shot of oil directly into my eye, nothing happend, not even slight irritation.
  • 79 4
 @tonit91: Please post one academic paper that suggests that mineral oil isn't safe for the skin. You do realise baby oil is 98% mineral oil and 2% fragrance?

onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00752.x
  • 140 5
 SRAM did imply that performance wise mineral is inferior, but maintenance wise mineral was superior in that video. (they are the ONLY manufacturer that did SCIENCE, lol)

I had run codes since the first gen, and they are great brakes, however, the last 3 seasons I have been running Magura MT7's. I've convinced my friends to get on the MT5 bandwagon as well (because I am their mechanic). MT5's are relatively cheap for what you get as well, simple pad swap and they are basically MT7's.

I am never going back, lighter lever feel, noticeably more power, never get bite point bubbles that I need to bleed (looking at you SRAM and Shimano). After and entire year of shuttles and bike park, barely any contamination during the bleed. Also, despite SRAMs video, DOT fluid does suck worse if you get it on your hands than Mineral oil (wear gloves kids).

The MT7 performance isn't even subjective, go look at the Enduro Magazine tests results where they use a lathe test bed to get braking force/heat/stopping comparisons. SRAM even mentions those tests in their own video (which fails to mention they get outshined by other companies using mineral oil).

If Magura and Shimano can make mineral oil brakes that have more stopping power than SRAMs, What's with the claim that mineral oil isn't for "performance" users?
  • 7 0
 @WRCDH: a classic, well done
  • 34 6
 @mitchbike: TRP also make really great brakes, if you want to try something other than the Big Two. Plus they are also min oil. I will never use DOT! Shit is nasty.
  • 49 0
 @abgrant: Shimano publishes a safety data sheet that more or less says it's not harmful for skin contact.

The issue with mineral oil, compared to DOT, is the lack of standardization, though. AFAIK there isn't any specific standard for what mineral oil brake fluid contains aside from some unknown quantity of mineral oil and other unknown quantities of unknown additives. AFAIK (and the Shimano sheet confirms), it's not 100% mineral oil and does contain some additives. Those aren't the fluids in use here, though.

Point being, mineral oil in baby oil being safe doesn't mean it's the same substance/makeup as what is in mineral oil for brakes, which is not standardized. It's most likely safe for skin contact, but unless they come out and say it is, it's better to be safe and take precautions. The mineral oil itself may not be an issue, but additives could be an irritant. Since it's not standardized, we don't know for sure.

The lack of a specific standard is also why brands will void warranties if you use fluids outside if what they specify.
  • 84 4
 @shinook: Well that's bad news because I just put some Shimano brake fluid on my kid, when I changed his diapers...
  • 8 0
 @tonit91: Engine oil is different from mineral brake oil, but even then, engine oil is the least harmfull liquid your car have, aside from pure water from the windshield wiper. If you use windshield wiper fluid because of low temps, oil is the safer.

jalopnik.com/heres-how-all-of-the-fluids-in-your-car-can-kill-you-1789532554
  • 9 0
 @mitchbike: Doesn't formula use mineral oil too? I mean, they have the most powerfull 2 piston brakes, with more power than most of four piston ones.
  • 11 0
 @mitchbike: Maybe I missed it, but I don't think they made any claims regarding a power difference between DOT fluid and mineral oil. All I heard is that the DOT seals supposedly work better over a wider temperature range, but they didn't provide any actual numbers leaving it virtually impossible to qualify how much that actually matters.
  • 7 1
 @shinook: I understand your point and 100% agree scientifically that additives can be harmful and you need to be careful. But that is not what I attacked.

I am merely attacking the blanket claim that Sram made by saying mineral oil isn't safe for skin. They were not trying to be scientific in that video and say, "mineral oil is safe but the additives may not be." I don't appreciate science or language being twisted for the purpose of marketing and to be sold a product.
  • 2 1
 @WRCDH: oh my God, you won the interwebs
  • 2 0
 @mybaben: Yeah, like there's actually lot's of options these days!
  • 11 3
 @mybaben: TRP all the way for me. Quadiems and Slates are absolutely fantastic. I prefer them over all the other brakes I've used extensively in recent years including various offerings from Shimano, SRAM, and Magura. The good news is that mid-to-high end offerings from all the usual suspects are at least 'pretty good' these days.

So, pick a brake (fluid) and be a dick about it.
  • 5 1
 Is DOT super bad for your skin? I try not to get much on me, but I do get some on my fingers when I bleed the brakes. Spray a little iso on my hands and wash em after.

Haven’t noticed any effect.
  • 4 1
 @dlxah: They mainly talked about what you're saying regarding seals, and added boiling point (which I think is moot if the brake design keep temps below that point, which they do). They just had a marketing mantra, DOT is for those hardcore riders, and Mineral is for peeps that want to do less maintenance...
  • 5 0
 @mitchbike: you can use water in the system to get the same stopping power. I don’t remember all of the details of the test but didn’t they just do since stops from two different speeds to see how much time it took to stop?

Using a different fluid such as mineral oil or DOT gives other advantages such as longevity, increased boiling point (for us bike park brake draggers), hydrophobicity, non-toxicity, corrosion protection, etc.
  • 4 0
 @endorium: well, actually, Trickstuffs run Bionol which is plant based Smile
  • 2 0
 @shinook: Put baby oil in my TRPs? Got it. Finally my bike will smell nice.
  • 16 1
 On a more serious note, even being "less powerful" than true Codes, that $137 per wheel is an amazing price, esp. given the post-COVID supplyhchain world and 8.5% inflation.
  • 6 0
 @mitchbike: are you getting brake rub with you or your friend's Maguras? Buddy with MT7 gets rubs all the time and has to take to his shop to get them adjusted every 5-10 rides. Heard similar issues on other parts of the interwebs. Maybe not an issue if you wrench yourself. Personally, love the lever feel and bite on the Maguras but can't deal with taking it to shop or wrenching every 5-10 rides.
  • 16 1
 @abgrant: That video is a joke.
"science!" yeah but once contextualized or just with numbers, everything in it is false or really exaggerated. No context, no numbers, no proof, no idea of how they had their conclusions, basically the opposite of science.
  • 2 0
 @smoothmoose: or just buy a caliper alignment tool and save the headache...
  • 10 0
 @abgrant: for sure in yearsof bleeding XT brakes I have lost four fingers Big Grin
  • 5 1
 @mitchbike: I have a question what is your bleed procedure for MT7 brakes and how do you get the calliper lined up perfectly? My pads keep slightly rubbing and it drives me nuts!!!
  • 6 2
 @mitchbike: Never lijked the plasticy feel of the MAgura brakes lever,s and crap bite point imho, but each to their own, I love the Code rSC's, never had any problem, not on home trails, not in the Alps
  • 7 1
 @bogey:

Yup, smooth and creamy peanut butter can be used as hydraulic oil, but it ain't great for hand fatigue! or a bunch of other parameters you mentioned. Wink Every thing in mechanics has trade offs, doesn't matter what subject. To me personally, I don't care about the whole DOT vs mineral debate, it's just funny when marketers get into the game of playing bullet point maker for Pro's and Con's and list things a that are unrealistic as the con's of something. In this case mineral oil not have as high a boiling point..

Here's the test setup. As good as I've seen from any MTB news source. Sorry PB..

enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy
enduro-mtb.com/en/behind-the-scenes-disc-brake-group-test

@smoothmoose

Pads do run close, I tune my own stuff, and spent years in shops, I do find them obnoxiously close but can generally keep them from rubbing. Most rubbing has to do with how you close your quick releases and tighten axles, and knowing tricks to setting up 4 piston brakes (pushing specific pistons back) but they are the same issues across all brakes, once I get them dialed, I generally don't have to play with them again until it's pad swap time.
  • 3 13
flag hubertje-ryu (Apr 12, 2022 at 12:03) (Below Threshold)
 @faul: Muricans will still reject it, because 'science'.
  • 2 0
 @mitchbike: I have mt7s and LOVE them!!
  • 5 0
 @christiaan: I got no problems with Codes, only marking BS.
  • 3 2
 @WRCDH: Debate (DBCool . Unreal.
  • 6 0
 @Sethsg

Without trying to be discouraging, lots of practice. Here's a few tips.

1. The caliper position and the pads/pistons positions are separate things. The only reason you end up moving the 'caliper' because it's easier than micro adjusting each piston one by one. Ask yourself, is my caliper centered over the rotor (not the pads)? Then separately ask yourself are my pistons retracting equal distance on both side from the rotor? Two distinct questions that change how you solve the issue.

2. Each piston extends and retracts with a different amount of friction, the piston that has the least friction moves first, then others will move after in order of friction. With two pistons it's annoying, with 4 it can be very tough to get things just right.

3. The individual piston positions relative to the caliper CAN be reset/changed/corrected. This gets missed ALOT. You can push the pistons back into the caliper to reset positions, then using a small screwdriver, hold a specific pad/piston back while pumping the lever to get each piston to extend the way you want.

I don't have time to finish this thought right now, but check out @bee_kay77 on instagram, he has some pretty good pointers! Practice makes perfect.
  • 1 0
 @abgrant: I wonder if used mineral oil is the issue. If it breaks down and or contains contaminants when used?

Just like used engine oil is much more unsafe than new??????
  • 1 1
 @Sethsg: the video for brake blled on You Tube for the MT7 I found helpful for mine.A hell of alot easier then the BS process for both Shimano and Sram/Avid.
  • 2 0
 You can always tell if its "high end" by the number of required service intervals. I always look for "bleed at least once per year" anything less isn't high end.
  • 17 0
 @mybaben: I only apply Shimano brake fluid to my kid when I want her to stop.
  • 2 0
 @WRCDH: nailed it!
  • 4 0
 @Notmeatall: I too know the Cura for more powerful, less maintenance brakes. But I wasn't going to share my secret Formula with anybody. Moo ha ha ha ha.

(recycled comment)
  • 4 0
 @hamncheez: I have unscented baby oil in my old SLX brakes right now lol. I even took it to Trestle last summer. Works fine as long as it's warm outside, but once it gets below 45F I start noticing wildly inconsistent bite point. Shimano oil must be a lower/more consistent viscosity.

I definitely plan to switch back to real Shimano oil though, I just did it as a fun experiment.
  • 8 1
 @mitchbike: The EnduroMag test was on the money. As a raw power, bike park brake...the MT7's are primo (like their lever options too). But Enduro rated those Codes as their overall favorite IIRC. Sam Hills won enough on them (not just a quick park lap either in his races) and they are badass. A bit of control and solid power. That being said, Hayes Dominions are where its at if you don't mind DOT fluid. Really, incredible brake. Similar to a Code but with a bit more power and just a touch less modulation. You can get an amazing bleed too if you want by doing the extra steps (10mins) to truly clear the system of air/junk. Hayes has done a great job there in their A2/A4's. They were also early to do 2mm rotors as well.
  • 1 1
 @smoothmoose:
I run MT7s and yes, the rub sometimes. But its an easy fix. See which of the pads that are rubbing, and use a screwdriver to press/hold that piston/pad back while pumping the lever, then the rub is gone and you have Wonderful brakes again
  • 1 2
 @Sethsg: caliper alignment tool. Cheap, and easy fix.
  • 1 0
 @btjenki: ... yet
  • 2 0
 @Svinyard: random thought but I’d be curious where Code RSCs with Cascade calipers would be placed in the power compared to let’s say MT7s, Hayes A4s etc

I’m a huge fan of Code RSCs(nothing else Sram brakes but yes to those RSCs) and agree with everything EnduroMag had to say about them. Now being around 190lb and very much into DH racing, I sometimes desire slightly more power. Not always but sometimes. Have mostly dialed in with Galfer 2.0 rotors or TRP 2.3 rotors and MTX Gold label pads. But I still wonder if I were to try Cascade if I could get everything I desire in power but never lose any of the feel and adjustability of the Code RSC that I enjoy so much
  • 2 0
 @hamncheez: Yep! That seemed to fly right over most of the heads of the comment battlers.
  • 6 31
flag mtnbikermaniac (Apr 12, 2022 at 13:40) (Below Threshold)
 @hamncheez:
Bidenflation
  • 6 36
flag mtnbikermaniac (Apr 12, 2022 at 13:43) (Below Threshold)
 @hubertje-ryu:
The science says you won't catch covid if you get the vax. Oh wait... just trust the science you bigot.
  • 6 5
 Great to see. All bicycle brakes should be mineral oil. DOT fluid is much worse for people, animals, and the environment.
  • 2 18
flag mtnbikermaniac (Apr 12, 2022 at 13:48) (Below Threshold)
 @Svinyard:

I'm running dominion A4s on my 130ish lbs surron. 220 rotor up front, 203 rotor in the rear. So far they are working great. I can 1 finger brake with them.
  • 1 0
 @lkubica: Been there more than once aswell
  • 1 0
 @hamncheez: It's not. Magura MT5's are half that.
  • 3 1
 @abgrant: Shimano mineral oil is delicious.
  • 3 9
flag thenotoriousmic (Apr 12, 2022 at 14:16) (Below Threshold)
 @mitchbike: Is power even that important? How often are you going 30mph + to a standing stop? You’re usually just scrubbing speed and don’t need that much power anyway. Reason why sram brakes are so good is how much control you have over the wheels especially if you like riding super steep trails where it’s just a case of getting down. Personally I don’t need much power. I’ve gone back down to 180mm rotors on my srams on the rear because I’ve got more control and can actually stop better. Like I can pin through off camber roots and have total confidence that I can brake hard and not wash out. My XT’s are apparently more powerful and I’m running them with 203 rotors and I can’t brake as hard with them and don’t have as much control over the wheel.
  • 1 0
 @bkm303: Haha, honestly? How long have they been in there?
  • 2 0
 @hamncheez: agreed. I'd take these over G2s any day. Hell, I might take them over Codes and just run 220s...
  • 3 0
 @thenotoriousmic: I put the baby oil in there back in August maybe? Just guessing, I've probably done around 30,000 ft of descending on that bleed.

It felt totally normal for the most part, except on cold mornings last fall the bite point was all over the place. On the first pull the lever would bite on the normal spot, then on the next pull it would bite almost instantly. I'm interested to see what the fluid looks like when I bleed it next lol.
  • 5 0
 @thenotoriousmic: Disagree, respectfully. MORE POWER
  • 10 0
 @kokofosho let's not forget that when shimano released di2, SRAM countered with this "mechanical advantage" video... vimeo.com/channels/sram/33982309 ... I'm sure they'll take it down one day. Pinkers never forget lol
  • 5 1
 @abgrant: You have to remember according to California everything causes cancer if it contacts your skin.
  • 2 0
 @andrewhoff: Yep, I've been super happy with my TRPs. I'm normally an XT guy, and I still love them. Also, the latest SLX work pretty damn well too. Yeah, there is some good stuff out there.
  • 2 0
 @thenotoriousmic: Yes, with a little balsamic!
  • 1 0
 @mitchbike: True.
  • 1 2
 Ya if you want high end get yourself some guides or levels with the DOT fluid @btjenki:
  • 1 0
 @bkm303: Brilliant. I’m definitely going to try this.
  • 2 0
 @FrostyMugKiller: Yes, as a native Californian, your comment has been identified as a malignant tumor and will be dealt with.

However, I came here to say that mineral oil is great, safe, and much less nasty and toxic than DoT brake fluid but there are no Mineral Oil Industry Standards that I am aware of and M.O. brakes I've used in the past required you use their own blend as it's not an off-the-shelf item you can get at any lubricant shoppe. Something to consider in addition to the usual boiling-point and viscosity arguments. Sry if this was covered - I didn't read all the comments
  • 13 1
 @thenotoriousmic

This comment runs the risk of a weird personal preference pissing match here. I encourage you to run whatever you feel fits with your riding/braking style. Since you asked me, in my personal opinion, I want maximum power within a few mm of lever blade stroke, with as little finger effort as possible, on top of that, I want 100% consistency all the time, or as close as I can get. I don't enjoy the brake lever feel where the lever continues travelling 10mm past the initial engagement point before I am at maximum power. The term "modulation" gets thrown around a lot. I dislike the term because it's generally used in a way to say, more lever throw before maximum power is a good thing. Which I don't agree with.

There's so many different braking scenarios in a single downhill run, it's not always scrubbing a little bit of speed, or slowly controlling the wheels while creeping down something very steep or full speed to a hard stop, or this or that, it varies infinitely. Heat changes the pressure and lever throw I need to apply to generate braking force, that's an inconsistency that your brain has to constantly adapt to on the fly all the way down a run.

So I run 220mm rotors on 4 piston brakes. Not just because of the peak power (I would under-utilize that feature, as all l would do is skid around constantly). I run high power brakes because in every scenario in between they are better and more consistent than less powerful brakes. If I need 25% power, I squeeze lever with 1.33mm of lever travel and 6.2367psi of lever pressure. If I need 76.3% power, I move the lever 3.437mm and apply 8.962psi (JK). The point is the brakes do exactly the same thing, every single time, with certainty. What my brain expects to happen when I pull them a specific amount, is what actually happens each and every time. That consistency with such little effort is what I am after. The more powerful and consistent my brakes, the less I use them and the faster I go. I know they will be there when I need them, and I know exactly how much to pull them at the last possible second.
  • 9 0
 @Sethsg: My experience shows that the biggest issue with the Magura brakes is that the brake cylinders( pistons) are little bit more prone to collect brake dust and dirt that some other brakes. This causes increase of friction between the seal and the cylinder( piston) , which results in lack of symmetric action the 2 piston or multiple piston versions of the caliper. What I do and works great is:

Prior to bleeding the brakes I clean the brake caliper cylinders/ pistons. Usually eject them carefully out ( pay attention not to pop them out completely ) You can place some 5-6mm spacer ( Allen wren woudl work ). If you have the 4 pot version use the transport ( yellow) block on the other couple of pistons in order to prevent then from fully popping out .
The procedure for cleaning is as follows :
eject them out( not fully , i.e. max 5mm) , use a ear swab with some brake cleaner and clean the piston walls until the swap is light grey ( or white at best, it will be close to black when you start if those have not been cleaned recently). After each clean I use another swab soaked in the Magura mineral oil to oil the cleaned piston and I push it back in so the oil can work on the seal and clean it .

Repeat that procedure for both cylinders 2-3 times . You have to achieve symmetrical action of the cylinders when you pump the brake level . Meaning both cylinders shall come out in a similar manner. if you have one of the cylinder stuck when the other one pops out during pumping , repeat the procedure and clean it and oil it. Or just use oil to clean it . The end result shall be symmetrical action of each pair of cyclinders

Following the cylinder( pistons) cleaning. bleed the brakes.

Clean them with brake cleaner so they are not oily.

Bolt down, but do not tighten the caliper with the fully contracted pistons in and then install the brake pads. The bolts shall be loose and give some freedom to the caliper to adjust to the rotor. ( please consider that although the rotor position is standardized there are still some tolerances).

Work with the brake lever to collapse the brake pads to the rotor. Not that when brake is enabled and the lever released the pads shall contract back in and leave a small gap.

Now this is where the finicky part comes in. place a white sheet of paper behind the rotor to see the gap and lightly tighten the caliper to the frame at the "best" middle position( you shroud see equal gaps on both sides).

Spin the wheel if there is no rub continue slowly to tighten the caliper and check for rotor rub . I think 4.7Nm is the maximum torque that you should crank the bolts.

If you detect rubbing , the readjust . Be patient and it will pay off . Once adjusted you should be good for at least nice 2-3 months . This depend where are you riding and what is your style of braking . If you pump and modulate you will have cleaner brake pistons for longer time . if you press the brake continuously and hang on the brakes then you will need to clean them more often . Magura brakes require more patience when adjusted but I think it is worth it .
Good luck !
  • 1 0
 @mtnbikermaniac: I think you must be on the wrong website.
racerxonline.com
  • 3 0
 @Bobanek: thanks for taking time to write down all this advice I’ll give it a go.
  • 1 0
 @mitchbike: I completely agree. Just my personal preference but I’ve got to say code rsc are the most popular brakes despite being more expensive than most brakes. £240 in the uk where mt7 are about £160 for example. So I can’t be the only one who thinks this. No doubt pinkbike will do the whistler survey and it will be number 1 again. They even got voted best brake by enduro mag who did the power test. I much prefer my guides and codes over my Saint and xt’s. Saints we’re just a liability on anything steep and wet because of how grabby they are but awesome at banging it in late in corners. Depends on what kind of riding you do.
  • 5 0
 @mybaben: Fortunately my kid has Royal blood.
  • 9 0
 @abgrant: How many babies do you need to start with to extract enough oil for a set of brakes?
  • 1 0
 @abgrant:
also this.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=63VIuPiX3CA
  • 4 0
 Another nice feature of the Hayes is they have grub screws which helps immensely when centering the caliper. Your method works well but these days I prefer to center the caliper with the pads out as it makes it much easier to see the gap and so I center the rotor to the caliper rather than the pads.

If your pistons are working cleanly or you are in the field and just trying to make a quick fix you can also just loosen caliper bolts and pull the brake lever so the pads contact and then tighten the caliper down. :
  • 2 0
 @WRCDH: crafty.....hmmmm?
  • 1 5
flag jokermtb (Apr 12, 2022 at 19:40) (Below Threshold)
 @mitchbike: After swimming in DOT brake fluid, due to the f'ed up bleed process for Hayes Stroker hydros........I vowed 'NEVER AGAIN' for DOT fluid brakes. That bike lost so much paint, from the freekin hose popping off the caliper and reservoir time and time again.....

Mineral oil brakes are the best - and those of us who barely have time for bike maintenance, let alone a tuesday night top off on the bleed on the steed, appreciate ease of service.
  • 2 0
 @WRCDH: I think you may have gotten the highest rated response to a comment in PB history.
  • 2 0
 @lkubica: recently during servicing a brake I made a rookie mistake and got a shot a shot of DOT 5.1 directly in the eye, shit happened, lots of irritation. Literally blind now
  • 3 0
 @sancho-ramerez: Shit, I hope you're kidding! Frown
  • 1 0
 It's the mask debate all over again hey Fox?
  • 1 0
 @Sethsg: Cheers man , it works for me and I think you have high chance to solve you problem . I have a pair of MT7 and those are the best brakes for the $$$, If you manage to get some braided steel houses then they are not that spongy either. e.g Magura MT Goodridge kit. They are British and you have to shop for them from some UK e-store or get them from Ebay . But those are definitely worth the money and are very sensible upgrade . the difference will be like the difference between the front and the rear brake . You must have noticed that the rear is spongier than the front . This is due to the longer length of the house . It just expands.

With the Goodridge braided steel houses houses you rear brake will become better than your current front

I ride mostly in the Santa Cruz mountains area and adjust them once in 3 months but then again at that point I am looking for a new brake pads I average ~300miles per month
  • 3 0
 @Notmeatall: Cura 2 is the best brake on the market, period. Reliability, power, price. The lever feel is an opinion, but all things considered it's pretty unbeatable.
  • 2 1
 @WRCDH: 666th upvote!!
  • 3 0
 @mitchbike: I think it was pretty strong that they didn´t mention the test they won with the Code RSC in the magazine you refer to...In that test MT7 and MT5 are pretty far apart according to test results. Same with Code R vs. Code RSC
  • 2 1
 @WRCDH: Sorry for downvote, missclick
  • 1 0
 Exact!!
  • 4 0
 @btjenki: @btjenki: So do Minaar's saint brakes count as low end if mineral is better for non-performance applications?

Even better- Minaar is a true hero of the people, with his simple, shabby, mineral oil brakes.
  • 1 0
 @ludi: I don’t think this is true at all. Shimano bleed process is significantly easier and faster than Magura. Just the fact that shimano calipers have an automotive style bleed valve makes bleeding them super easy
  • 5 0
 @Upundu: I actually hate that Shimano bleed valve. The rubber cover is always tearing off and now the valve is dirty and introducing potential junk into the system. Getting the tube on there without a bubble in it is a pain and oil runs out unnecessarily in the process. Also the freaking thing pops off easily when pushing/pulling oil and moving things around (I never have enough hands). Give me a proper fitting or Bleeding Edge any day. I've done about every brake other than TRP, Magura and Trickstuff a bunch of times. Shimano lever bleed is great but the rest is a PITA, tho I do like mineral oil being not nasty. Fwiw I can do it and its not that bad but its not nearly as nice as others imo.
  • 1 0
 @Svinyard: It works with Sram brakes also. No bleed kit required takes less than five mins.

youtu.be/piWBVDh1pTE
  • 1 0
 @thenotoriousmic: Well damn! That is an interesting bleed. I like how he entirely bypasses the Shimano shite valve design there (its so dumb) and basically just drains the thing. Do wonder how that works tho with bubbles in the line etc. As you can see when bubbles move through the clear tubing on a syringe, they often get stuck and the syringe pushing/pull does a DAMN good job of moving the bubbles rather than relying on their buoyancy through an entire rear brake line (that often goes downhill a bit). I'm just a home mechanic so its hard for me to disagree with a pro guy there but I wonder if that works with all bikes that have different routings etc. One thing that I really like, is he covers lubing the pistons. That's never covered in the normal bleed procedure but a good cleaning with a toothbrush/oil and exposed piston can be a real game changer. Stuck pistons SUCK.
  • 1 1
 @abgrant: the video is 6:26 in length. You are wrong about your statement, "They did say that mineral oil isn't safe to touch the skin (6:46)..."
  • 1 0
 @enduuuro: The subjective pick that Enduro went with is definitely one aspect. As I mentioned before, MT5's are MT7's once you change the pads which you eventually will have to do.
  • 5 0
 @thenotoriousmic:

The Whistler survey is such a neat survey, but be careful in thinking that it accurately captures what people would actually ride IF they could afford to choose each part individually 'a la carte'.

Some parts in the survey like tires for instance, do show what people prefer, because people CHOOSE the SECOND set of tires they install, once the OEM set wears out.

Brakes on the other hand are part of huge deals with bike manufacturers and component companies. SRAM Codes are everywhere, not because they are the best, but because they come INSTALLED at the OEM level along with derailleurs/cranks/cassettes/Forks/shocks. If you take the data at face value without context, the survey shows that SRAM and Shimano absolutely dominate the market in every way. But what it actually shows is that SRAM and Shimano dominate the pricing for packages they can offer to bike companies.

Something like brakes is misleading, because if your bike came with SRAM code R's, not many folks can justify upgrading to CODE RSC's or anything else for that matter (Except the dentists).
  • 1 0
 @mitchbike: I don't think you are correct about that. As far as I know the mt7 does have a smaller master cylinder diameter, resulting in
a) more power
b) less clearance between disc and pad
Too tired to dig it up, but I think Klaus from trickstuff mentioned it some time ago (they are obviously keeping an eye on the competition)
The calipers are the same though.
  • 1 0
 @deanw: I think you're confused...The video is 13:37 long, so my statement was correct. www.youtube.com/watch?v=oF2vAOmplUI
  • 1 0
 @abgrant: point taken. We were referring to different videos.
  • 1 1
 @mitchbike: So many manufacturers wouldn’t choose them if they wasn’t attractive to the customers but that’s just one point of reference. All the evidence points to codes being seen as the current benchmark, from how popular they are despite being more expensive, how many good reviews they’ve got, how many pro’s with a component sponsor use them. Choose a yard stick of your choice and they’ll be somewhere near the top.
  • 2 0
 @Svinyard: I’ve been doing it this way since I first saw the video when I came out about five years ago and I’ll never go back. Its just so quick and easy and I always end up with a perfect bleed. All the fluid drains down to so your clearing the brake out while you’re doing it instead of pushing all that dirty fluid up to the lever. Give it a go. Could save yourself a decent bit of money on bleed kits that rot away when you’re not using them.
  • 2 0
 @suspended-flesh:

My comment was more towards the prop 65 warning labels on everything.
Have a sense of humor this is the internet don't take it to seriously.


Proposition 65 requires businesses to provide warnings to Californians about significant exposures to chemicals that cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm. These chemicals can be in the products that Californians purchase, in their homes or workplaces, or that are released into the environment.
  • 1 0
 @FrostyMugKiller: Very well aware of that - I was poking fun at my ridiculous state. The stuff we come up with here can be super annoying and because it very often trickles down to other states, they hate us!

You may want to have your own Humorometer calibrated, my dude.
  • 1 0
 @abgrant: Science bitch!
  • 1 0
 @lkubica: I did this with dot5, did not turn blind. Was a bit scary though. Washed immediately.
  • 2 0
 @mitchbike: the sram and shimano are fine, and my friend has enough issues with the MT7 setup that i ended up with the dominions, the feel is also amazing, and setup was pretty simple. Also dot though, but, tbh, service once a year isnt really a problem.
  • 1 0
 @p1nkbike: I have all Magura brakes. Mt7/hc3 on my main bike. No issues. You just need to know all the tricks to keep 'em running at peak. No rub, no noise, no fade, solid lever feel and all.
  • 3 1
 @mitchbike: Once you know all the tricks to keeping Maguras tip top, there's not much reason to go with a different brake. We have Magura on four bikes at home. A couple MT5s with HC levers and two MT7s with HC3 levers. HC3 levers blow everything else out of the water in terms of feel and performance, and we all know how powerful Maguras are too. Any issues people have with Magura are typically user error. Excellent brakes.
  • 1 0
 @Sethsg: Search "how to perfect bleed magura" on YouTube as well. Great info in that video for getting every last air bubble out amd getting even lever throw/feel front and rear.
  • 2 1
 @Svinyard: Magura is actually the easiest to get perfect if you know the trick. Search "magura perfect bleed" on YouTube. In a couple minutes you can get them dialed. I've literally done it for people in parking lots just to show them how easy it is.
  • 2 0
 @WRCDH: you just blew my mind! The Devinci Code has been broken!
  • 2 0
 can this end already. I'll go back to BB7s if people just let this die.
  • 1 0
 @dlxah: The part about temperature range is true. I live in Alaska where half of the riding year is spent in the snow on fat bikes. SRAM brakes work very well even into the negatives (Fahrenheit), whereas the shimano mineral oil brakes seize up and become stiff in much less extreme cold. However, I think that is more due to the different oils rather than the difference in seals.
  • 1 0
 @Bobanek: Thanks for that detailed instructions.Next time I bleed my magura brakes I will do that to the pistons.
  • 2 0
 Mineral oil-based enemas (Fleet) can cause skin rash, itching or hives, swelling of the face, lips, or tongue; severe diarrhea, or difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. You should report any of these side effects immediately to your healthcare provider. Other side effects include: Oil leakage from the rectum...
  • 2 0
 @mybaben: Funny, Shimano's head tech actually said "if you dont wipe brake oil on your childs skin why would you put baby oil in your brakes? Big Grin
  • 2 0
 @nvranka: yeah DOT fluid is cancer causing...takes a long time for problems to show up.
  • 2 0
 @endorium: shimano uses mineral oil ..... right?
  • 1 0
 @FastRiding: They do, not a great example of good brakes that use it though
  • 114 1
 Cool, so I can build a bike with these brakes, which are less good Codes. A Domain fork, which is a less good Zeb and adjust the suspension myself, which is less good flight attendant.
  • 24 0
 You, my friend, understand
  • 69 0
 And you’ll only have an $8,000 bike instead of a $13,000 bike. You win!
  • 26 2
 Which makes sense, because my skills are also, less good.
  • 4 0
 I see you’re using the word ‘less’ rather loosely. Good for you bud.
  • 6 0
 @nvranka: He could have said less fewer times

(My English teacher would be proud...)
  • 94 0
 great option for the entry level bike spec ( 1 - 3.5 million US Dollars )
  • 34 0
 Those prices seem high. I'm pretty sure that will get you at least Code Rs on a Yeti.
  • 5 0
 Aston martin called they want their brakes back
  • 79 0
 Introducing the new Sramano Deode
  • 12 0
 Shimaram Codeore?
  • 75 4
 Nothing quiet about Sram brakes.
  • 14 5
 Until you use Maguras, then SRAM brakes are silent in comparison.
  • 1 1
 I was hoping someone pointed that out
  • 2 1
 came here for this comment
  • 4 0
 I have had several SRAM brakes and they all have been quiet. It just depends on what rotors you use and compound of pad you use.
  • 2 0
 @nickfranko: I've been using MT7s on both of my bikes for the last three seasons, and they're silent. I use the TruckerCo pads from eBay, FWIW.
  • 29 0
 After bleeding my friends Hope brakes recently, I want to know why all brakes aren’t so easy to bleed? No syringes, just some tube on the bleed fitting, a wrench, and a torx bit.
  • 4 1
 This
  • 20 5
 I'd love to try some....as soon as they go to mineral oil.
  • 4 0
 I have tech 4s sitting in front of me as I type that arrived today. Excited to get them fitted.
  • 3 3
 Do you use the Easy Bleed Funnel? I had Hope's years ago and the way they wanted you to fill the reservoir with fluid, then put the rubber diaphragm on and let it spill all over the outside of the brakes and bars really turned me off.
  • 16 12
 @mybaben: I don't get why people bitch about DOT. Do you guys not bleed car brakes?
  • 29 0
 @93EXCivic: username checks out
  • 23 0
 @93EXCivic: You'd be lucky to find 3 registered PB users who bleed their own car/truck brakes... So that's you and 2 others.
  • 2 0
 @DBone95: I'm one, just another to find then!
  • 2 0
 @starkle: Like Where's Wally!
  • 2 0
 @DBone95:
Count me as 2
  • 6 1
 @93EXCivic: No, I do not bleed car brakes. That's what auto mechanics are for! I don't want that shit anywhere near my good bicycles!
  • 3 1
 @DBone95: I bleed several car brakes a day, what do I win?
  • 4 4
 @93EXCivic: bleeding car brakes much easier than bleeding anything SRAM!!!
  • 2 0
 For real, it's always so easy to get a good bleed in my hope brakes. And I just do it like on a car
  • 3 0
 @gnarnaimo: The Bleed Master Award. Good for a one week free trial of Outside+
  • 5 2
 Have you not heard of these things called "old rags" or 'cloth' etc etc tou wrap it around the reservoir to catch Amy spilled fluid. Hope brakes are easiest bleed of any brake that ANY bad cack handed mech can do it without spilling fluid.
Seems to me that all the brakes I've had with large lever reservoirs have been the best performance, easiest bleed an last the longest in-between bleeds.
The light weight brakes with no reservoirs have been the most annoying bleeds, need tuning every other ride an required the most maintenance. Just my experience tho
  • 22 0
 Notes from the Video:
1.They removed bleeding edge(one of the only good things sram has for bleeding brakes)
2. Oil now spills out of both ports when your finished bleeding.
3. If you don't use Maxima mineral oil you will void your warranty
  • 3 0
 1:Bad
2:Bad
3:I think Maxima oil is available at most moto shops to if I’m not mistaken…at least a positive..it’s more available.
  • 4 1
 2.theres always a seal on one end if you do it right
  • 1 0
 At least in the US i don't think 3 is legal. They would need to prove that the non-Maxima fluid was the cause of the failure.
  • 4 0
 Well if they kept the bleeding edge people would've mixed up the bleed kits and Shimano & Magura have the same stipulation in their warranties.
  • 2 3
 @komye-west: no there is not. SRAM DOT brakes always spill when you undo suringe exactly the way these in the video.
  • 17 1
 Every 1-2 years? I have a pair of Shimanos from 2009 that were last bled in 2011 and are still perfect with regular use. The fluid might be black by now but they work great still.
  • 4 0
 I had the chrome body XT brakes for years and service never crossed my mind. They were and still are the best brakes ever made.
  • 1 0
 I have more than one set of shimanos with the factory bleed on them that are years old and work great. (L/XL frame sizes so I dont' have much extra line)
  • 31 13
 shimano just won
  • 14 4
 Magura
  • 9 2
 @HenkkaK: TRP
  • 10 1
 @mybaben: Formula Cura, Trickstuff, Shigura.
  • 5 1
 Shimano never had a chance once TRP dhr EVO came out.
  • 2 1
 @Notmeatall: I hear great things about Trickstuff, but $$$$$. LOL
  • 4 1
 They won a Long time ago
  • 16 1
 There's only Shimano that makes a decent lever imo. You can put whatever oil you want in them but sram levers feel like clutch levers.
  • 1 0
 I decided to do no Shimano parts on my last build. I went all SRAM or SRAM compatible, except on brakes. I couldn't quit mineral oil, so I went Magura. I love the power and the modulation, but I rode some new XT brakes a couple weeks ago. Damn, I forgot how good Shimanos ergos are.
  • 19 2
 Modulation is just an excuse for inferior brakes - Shimano
  • 14 2
 If they feel/work like Codes but use mineral oil and avoid weeping all the time (love you Shimano brakes, but you all gently weep like a Beatles song) this could be THE brakeset to have.

Will wait until they’ve been in the wild a year or so though….
  • 11 4
 Hayes Dominions are the brake to have aside from super spendy Trickstuff. I love my Code RSC's, the Shimano XT 2 pistons are freaking lame light switches, newer shimano 4 pistons we've got are nice but the bite point flaw is a failure...the Dominions are badass tho. The bleed is more involved if you want it to be which takes another 10 mins BUT you can definitely get a better bleed.
  • 7 1
 @Svinyard: I don’t have any issues with getting a proper bleed or the infamous wandering bite point.

I do find that the seals weep oil, which is annoying (and means a quick lever bleed before any day doing park laps).
  • 2 1
 @Svinyard: I’ve heard from people who’ve owned both that the dominion is better and the trickstuff are nearly impossible to source parts for if anything goes wrong
  • 5 1
 I've owned a bunch of sets of Shimano brakes and never had one weep except when my new bike didn't have the hose fitting tightened. After years they need a lever bleed but they are close to absolute zero maintenance for brakes.
  • 12 0
 Dot dot dot Dash dash dash dot dot dot,
  • 1 0
 i hear your Wire!
  • 12 1
 Checks date... Is this real life?
  • 1 0
 Is this just fantasy?
  • 8 1
 Ahh think of the earnings from all those extra bleed kits and oil sold after the mtb community is riding these brakes!
Marketing and earnings ..check.
The mineral oil does seem nicer to deal with though…less burning the eyes and face when things go sideways.
  • 23 0
 Eyes and face?! Maybe not bleeding your brakes properly????
  • 1 0
 @wyorider: haha. From the ol’ Hayes days when it seemed the lil hose always ways deformed from the DOT and would blast off either the silly lil bottle or the bleed nipple…(.and I was still learning the way back then!)
  • 2 3
 Exactly. I've had tubes pop off the calipers before spraying oil all over. Would be terrifying if that was DOT... Won't touch that stuff.
  • 5 1
 @mybaben: Terrifying? You must lead an incredibly boring life if you think a little hydraulic oil spill is terrifying.
  • 8 0
 If you get DOT fluid on your hands just spray it off with Brake Parts Cleaner.
  • 3 0
 Haha, you must have worked in shops back when I did. I remember how I felt when I realized this wasn't the smartest way to get grease off my hands. Derp, we all get to be young once! LOLz.
  • 7 2
 Modern brakes are so good and powerful now I'll give up the very slight performance benefits of DOT fluid in exchange for the cleanliness and ease maintenance of mineral oil. Nothing more ghetto that paint peeling off your DOT fluid calipers.
  • 1 0
 There is a performance benefit in terms of boiling temperatures, but I don't think it's relevant to MTB brakes. I've used Avid, Shimano and Magura brakes and never had an issue with boiling fluid in any of them. I'm a SRAM fan and if anything the Avid brakes needed the most bleeding and maintenance, however they did feel sweet. I could never get the Shimanos to feel right, always loads of free travel on the lever and the bite point was never consistant. Maguras seem to be the best so far, but the levers are a bit different
  • 5 1
 One would get these over TRP Slates or Quadiems or Trail EVOs because...?

Having given up on Sram brakes in the past and now being deep into the TRP fanboy realm, the "it just works" nature of TRP would seem to trump whatever pluses this Sram is supposed to have.
  • 8 6
 Because SRAM is nearly universally supported by bike shops, while TRP is not even close. Next time you take your bike out on a ride in a new area (like a road trip) and break something where you cannot repair it because the LBS doesn't support that product, you'll see the benefits of mainstream stuff.

If the two are close in performance, I'm going to buy the product that doesn't potentially leave me screwed out of a trip because I have to special order the parts for replacements.
  • 10 0
 @nickfranko: You know TRP uses Shimano pads/fluid, right?

They might be close in performance, but not in reliability. TRP is far more reliable. And having had a few Sram brakes die in the way Sram does (stuck master) on trips, I can tell you that those parts aren't on a shelf in most bike shops. You have to get a whole new brake.
  • 4 0
 @nickfranko: You know TRP stands for Tektro Racing Products right? And that Tektro manufactures the same amount of brakes every year as Sram and Shimano? And that TRP and Tektro use all the same lever and caliper internals and are also interchangeable with Shimano hoses, pads, and oil... all of which can literally be found in every single bike shop?

TRP is universally supported these days and far more reliable than the other two mainstreams, so you likely won't have any issues in the first place and therefore wouldn't need to visit a shop, unlike Sram and Shimano which need constant repairs.

I've been on many trips over the years with my Quadiems and DH-R EVO's and haven't been screwed yet, which is unlike my experiences with the other two and why I will only ride with TRP now.
  • 7 0
 Never had an Issue with Sram brakes - then again I learnt to bleed them properly.
  • 3 0
 Never even bought a bleed kit for my XTs.
  • 1 0
 Yeah, with SRAM brakes and reverb, pretty much everything is about the bleed. There is a few things that I do where I don't follow the SRAM instructions, but get better results.
  • 2 0
 @tacklingdummy: I just pull the plunger out of the syringe and use it like a bleed cup. Pull the bleed port nut out all together. Let fluid drain through it until it comes out of the calliper looking clean and golden. Put bleed port bolt back in, put plunger back in and do a quick lever bleed. Way easier than the official sram way of doing it.
  • 1 0
 @thenotoriousmic: I understand your method. Haven't tried it exactly like that. My method is different, but somewhat similar. Lol.

The hardest part with SRAM's method is to get enough fluid in the line. Too much fluid leaks out when you take off the syringe and put the bleed port screw in. Afterwards, there usually is too much play in the lever. The newer SRAM "bleeding edge port" solved that problem, but since I have older model SRAM brakes, I just use a thinner caliper block when bleeding to get more fluid in the lines.
  • 1 0
 @tacklingdummy: it’s not my method it’s the marshy method from the Santa Cruz team vids. I just pull the plunger out and use the syringe like a bleed cup.
  • 3 0
 I'm expecting to see a LOT of these on ebikes in the near future.
I'll hold out hope that these will perform on par with the code/g2 but without the constant bleed that those brakes need; if so this may become my next brakset. If not, it'll at least be nice to sell MTBs with sram brakes that I don't have to wince while I talk about them.
  • 6 1
 Just send all your SRAM stuff to me, I'll take it if you hate it that much. I think I have a few old Shimano parts you can have in return.
  • 9 1
 I tried to send you my guides and elixirs but the post office classified them as fecal matter and wouldn’t let me..
  • 2 1
 @emptybe-er:On the mailing form you were supposed to check the box-"explosive-hazardous materials".
try again...
  • 7 0
 NOW WE CAN MIX - SRAM WITH SHIMANO. SRAMANO!!!
  • 3 0
 Sram brakes are easy to bleed and service as is. The bleeding edge port is great. Wearing gloves and goggles is no big deal. I bet these will be great too. All bike components are way better performing, reliability, and ease of service compared to past generations.
  • 7 0
 Hui sragura
  • 4 0
 Was thinking the same Smile
  • 5 0
 When you need to D-B8 whether or not you will be able to stop. 9 yr old daughter, I qualify.
  • 2 0
 I wonder if they did this so that it would be easier/cheaper to assemble/bleed the brake in an oil bath? I know companies do that for things like seatposts. I imagine doing the same thing with a brake would have similar benefits.
  • 4 0
 "The goal for the DB8 brakes was to create a very low maintenance option, a brake that can be used for more than one season." FTFY
  • 2 0
 Curious how low temps affect the maxima mineral oil. I find Magura Royal Blood works just fine. The Magura MT Trail Sports on my fatbike have gone down to -15F without issue. The pads/rotor needed heating up for them to work properly... But that's not the oil's fault.
  • 3 1
 I think that I’m just over sram. Especially the guides. They have caused me nothing but problems over the two years I’ve owned them with their recall. Now my set that was replaced under warranty is out of warranty and I have to pay out of pocket for these issues. Been playing around with the idea of getting a new break set all together but breaks are just so damn expensive that I’m not sure if it’s worth it. My breaks have caused me more time off the bike than any other part on my bike combined.
  • 2 0
 PB commenter 1: Which MOIST* do you run, 6 or 7?

PB commenter 2: M-7 is too thick for Downcountry brakes so I stick with M-6, but I run it on my Enduro bike for sure.

PB commenter 1: You d1ck.

*Mineral Oil Industry Standard Type rating system coming soon....
  • 8 7
 "The goal for the DB8 brakes was to create a very low maintenance option, a brake that can be used for more than one season without requiring a bleed."

Poor advice on Sram's part, bleeding should be an annual maintenance task regardless of fluid - this is asking for trouble.
  • 3 2
 I haven’t bled my sram brakes since April 2019 and they’re still faultless but then how often do you bleed the brakes in your car? Never? And that’s dot fluid. I have to bleed my shimano brakes all the time because the fluid turns black and the brake starts acting up. Im confused.

Ps I'm not suggesting you shouldn’t bleed your brakes in over three years but at this point I’m curious to see how long I can go without a bleed before the brake starts to be inconsistent.
  • 5 0
 @thenotoriousmic: you are definitely supposed to change the brake fluid in your car every few years.
  • 1 0
 @Austink: I’ll get right on it.
  • 1 1
 @thenotoriousmic: I can't imagine what the fluid looks like - I've also not seen black Shimano mineral oil, generally it loses color if it stays clean - DOT is what turns black from water reacting to the fluid
  • 2 0
 @therealmancub: it’s still gold. I was going to do a bleed and then didn’t bother when I saw the colour of the fluid.

It starts of cloudy, then starts to look like earl grey tea before finally going very dark almost black. Every time I do a lever bleed on my shimano’s (5-10 rides) I’ll get a bit of dirty black / grey fluid pulled back into the bleed cup.
  • 1 0
 @therealmancub: Shimano brakes turning fresh mineral oil into black soup is pretty common.
I rarely find shimano brakes that don't do this after half a year.
  • 3 0
 I can't get "D.B. Cooper" out of my head when I see that name. I worry the brakes would take my money, then jump off my bars mid-ride.
  • 3 0
 DB8 ? well i think there isn't much Debate about what company chose the most stupid name ever for a brake !, Licence to brake ? Moonbraker ? You only brake twice. whatever
  • 1 0
 As there's a brake geek convention going on...

I can reduce the bite point in a pair of Levels by squeezing the lever once without the rotor installed... Is this a 'clever hack' given there's no adjustment screw, or have I messed up the bleed at some point?
  • 4 0
 This is completely normal and can work for you if you want a shorter lever throw. This also means however that the pistons are further out in their resting position and therefor it will be more difficult to align the calliper so that the pads dont rub on the rotor.
  • 1 0
 @levaca: that makes sense, thanks for your help!
  • 3 0
 I wish SRAM would introduce a flat pedal that used Dot while Shimano simultaneously intergrated mineral oil into SPDs. The comments would be amazing.
  • 1 0
 If DOT is worse for the environment then all component manufacturers should be pivoting toward mineral oil. 'To avoid cross contamination, we created a new bleed kit' - Or was it to sell more stuff. uniform bleed kits would be more environmentally friendly too. And the whole debate on which oil is better is a non starter for an average rider who wont notice the difference and gets the LBS to do their bleeds. I bleed and run both shimano and sram brakes. Both systems are fine and I cant tell the difference.
  • 1 0
 I'm tempted to experiment with Sramgura. SRAM DB8 levers mixed with Magura calipers. Although I'm more than content with my MT7/HC3 setup, it would still make for a sweet experiment.

I've tried "Shigura" before but I didn't like the mix of servowave with Magura calipers. Shigura works best with the cross country XTR race levers. Thing is, XTR Race levers aren't cheap, so Sramgura it is.

Oh, and pro tip, use Red Line LikeWater with all your mineral oil brakes. The fluid is much less viscous than other mineral oils and it does better with temperature swings. I hated how little lever throw I'd get in colder temps with OEM fluid. With Red Line LikeWater, the lever feel is consistent all year long. That's all I run in all my mineral oil based brakes. You get as close as you can get to the performance of DOT fluid but without actually having to deal with DOT fluid. Win win.
  • 2 0
 I still think this gives people options. In my experience: Code brakes feel great, but they can be pretty noisy. Best combo I found was Code brakes and Shimano rotors.
  • 3 0
 My problem with the Code R is how they move as the pads wear: they do not compensate well.
  • 3 0
 I don't care about the fluid, I only care about the noise! Needs more turkey!!
  • 4 0
 How awesome would it have been if these were released on April 1...?
  • 2 0
 The whole “everything on April 1 is fake” schtick is played. Definitely need some actual surprising product releases that turn out to be real to spice things up.
  • 1 0
 @Blackhat: Yes, that would be awesome!
  • 1 0
 @Blackhat: Like when Uibsoft released this game trailed on April the 1st and the game turned out to be real www.youtube.com/watch?v=av5pqJaIeCk
  • 5 1
 I give it a couple more years before all Sram brakes are mineral oil.
  • 5 0
 Meanwhile, TRP…
  • 3 0
 TRP is quietly laughing as Sram has now copied them on thicker rotors and mineral oil...
  • 4 0
 It’s simply a set of brakes for e-bikes people
  • 1 0
 Nah, not expensive enough. Also they need a place to attach the mirror and kickstand to.
  • 3 0
 I want to see the state of the guy that only bleeds his sram brakes once a year...
  • 1 0
 Hey @SramMedia This will be my next new brake when they become available in the aftermarket, and good job on the slow switch to mineral oil as I'm guessing that's where you are heading even though you can't confirm.
  • 1 0
 Terrible experience with SRAM Guides and Dot fluid. Never had the same cr@p from lower end Shimanon stuff. Gave them away eventually and fitted some old XT785's So much better.
  • 1 0
 I feel a great disturbance in the force like millions of SRAM fanboys screaming out at once. Like, seriously its not like they came out with a press release to announce the end of DOT. Chill bros.
  • 1 0
 I don't understand the bleed once a year issue. I have some old Avid XX WC. I bleed them like every 2-3 years, and they are fine. Maybe the fluid wasn't the main problem with the latest Sram breaks.... Just saying...
  • 1 0
 To make things worse.. it's literally just Maxima's new mineral oil at twice the price of the Maxima stuff. Literally identical. Packaging and everything. Not even Sram branded
  • 4 1
 Quiet launch or silent apologize to have insisted on dot?
  • 3 1
 that reminds me, i must swap out my Dot fluid in my cars because "apparently" PB users say mineral is better. lol.
  • 3 0
 Does DB stand for Dogs Bollocks?
  • 1 0
 db8, ie debate.
  • 2 0
 @HeatedRotor: or, aston martin ?
  • 2 0
 @HeatedRotor: as in what kind of DEBATE will I have with Sram when they stop working in a month.
  • 3 0
 Doesn't Brake. Daily Bleed. Don't Believe. Deliberate Bullsheet. Defective Brake. Deleted Brains.
  • 1 1
 @fastback570: hows your feelings going to feel when they say you cant bleed for s$#t lol
  • 1 0
 @fastback570: never had an issue with Sram once i learnt to bleed..
  • 1 0
 @HeatedRotor: never even bought a bled kit for my shimanos.
  • 1 0
 @fastback570: cool. but i use my bikes, wear pads etc out so bleeding is a common thing regardless.
  • 1 1
 "was to create a very low maintenance option, a brake that can be used for more than one season without requiring a bleed."

Who ever thought that we want low maintenance ...
  • 1 1
 IMHO piston mobilisation solves brake problems more frequently than bleeding. The end user will not really benefit from this.
  • 1 2
 Not sure I agree with there maintenance theory. Worked for a car company that uses mineral oil in there steering and has to be topped off every so often. While most peoples brakes in there cars won’t get bleed for years, and don’t need topped off.
  • 1 0
 Steering pumps are usually self bleeding and on a constant flow pump with a return so you get losses due to misting as its pumped back in to the reservoir....not the same at all
  • 1 0
 Glad you don't work on my cars. I hope you just simply forgot to mention that many car manufacturers also use mineral oil for their braking, transmission and steering systems. Of those manufacturers, service intervals are much longer than the dot counterparts. Two of my cars fall in this group of mineral oil. I never have to top off any of those mentioned fluids between service. Just in case you forgot to mention that
  • 3 0
 Straight to the comments.
  • 4 2
 Finally a Sram brake PB users can bleed, Because anything beyond using a cup is too hard for them.
  • 4 3
 I've had 6-7 pairs of Shimano brakes and never had this mysterious wandering bite point..probably because they are properly bleed.
  • 2 0
 @Themissinglink83: the wandering bite point comes from heat in the caliper.. not the bleed...
Same saying for me though: ive not had a single issue with Sram brakes since I learned to bleed them
  • 3 0
 @Themissinglink83: The only time I had SWBP™ was when I followed the kool kids on the internet and did the 5 minute lever flick bleed thing with the pads and wheels installed on the bike which overfills the system. I battled the inconsistent lever throw for as long as I did that, and as soon as I went back to following Shimano's bleed/oil adding procedure on my XT8100s (not overfilling), they have been flawless.
  • 3 0
 @Themissinglink83: someones never ridden hard enough to get their brake super hot.
  • 2 1
 @mtbtrekracer: someones never ridden fast enough because they are always on their brakes getting them super hot.

^ Touché is the word you're searching for.
  • 2 0
 @DBone95: interesting comment, I hope your're at Fort William in May, come by our Pits and say hi.
  • 2 0
 @mtbtrekracer: Loris??!
  • 1 0
 Great to see so many chemical and brake engineers in the comments. Neither is good for you...wear gloves. One can be found in every convenience store though...
  • 1 0
 The next version will work with olive oil and a separate, new bleeding kit would be needed. The kit will cost more than the breaks....
  • 1 0
 I love how the engineer said that they don't had to just change the fluid, they had to change all the seals, as if o'rings where some very complex part of the brake.
  • 3 1
 The levers are still freaking huge
  • 1 0
 Holds more air!
  • 2 0
 Pretty sure I saw those brakes in Blade Runner:2049.
  • 3 0
 Do they howl in the wet?
  • 7 0
 I thought sram brakes gobble, not howl? lol
  • 2 2
 Soooo...it's like a Shimano, but with brake pads that don't come pre-contaminated with oil/grease? So down for this on cheap bikes.
  • 4 3
 Well I'm high as a kite, and my teeth are green. Merry Fu(king Christmas!!!
  • 2 0
 Sram is finally planning to make a quite brake
  • 2 1
 Time for Diamondback to re-release the DB8 and spec these for no reason? Just me?
  • 5 5
 10 percent less power than Codes . That's a selling feature. We made them less powerful. Because that's what everyone asked for ????
  • 3 2
 yep,less power so your not very powerful Code would still be good hehehe...Code R brakes are not very impressive in raw power,why you would do a 4 piston brakes less powerful?
  • 2 0
 @homerjm: agreed . 4 Pistons less power . Haha . I'm sold .
  • 1 2
 Bahahaha! SRAM...you might as well go with the Shimano SLX M6100 series brakes and it's got the pink mineral oil. So, you'll know if the fluid needs to be flushed when it's dirty.
  • 4 5
 All sram brakes are Sh1te , can’t beat formula Cura 4 - not a single problem or bleed needed in 18 months of use , and more powerful…..and no wandering or disappearing bite point!
  • 2 0
 do you not wear out a set of pads in 18 months? one day your bite point wont be there.
  • 3 1
 Hmm, dear SRAM, April 1st was nearly 2 weeks ago...
  • 3 4
 I see what you did there SRAM: when you realise your Guides and Levels are outshone by bottom shelf Deores and hope to piggy backing off the only good brakes you make (Codes) by making a cheap version.
  • 2 0
 I used a set of guides on a demo bike that was worked on by a WC mechanic at a bike park, They worked awesome.
  • 1 0
 also sram haters, just send me all your sram brakes, ill bleed them and use them. thanks!
  • 2 0
 *Sees title*
*Leaves tab open to read comments with popcorn after work*
  • 1 0
 (yes i know that car was a DB5), but a DB makes me think of aston martin straight away.
  • 1 0
 Funnily enough there have been DB models from 1 to 11 with only 8 skipped entirely (10 was a concept car).
  • 1 1
 SRAM made the video "The Science of Stopping"
YouTude Link: youtu.be/oF2vAOmplUI

It explains their take on DOT vs Mineral Oil
  • 2 0
 This is drippy.
  • 1 1
 Sweet, I'll be getting these on my next build. I want MatchMakerX mount brakes and SRAM feel but hate DOT fluid.
  • 1 0
 I need a HA-HA option here, please PB!
  • 1 0
 Brake bleeds every two years?? Maybe in Winnipeg.
  • 1 0
 Wait- it’s not water in brakes?!
  • 2 0
 I USE FLUID IN MY BRAKES
  • 1 0
 You have heard of Shim-gura, now get ready for Sram-no
  • 1 0
 Two years between a bleed? Yeah right.
  • 1 0
 Tell me you were wrong without telling me you were wrong....
  • 1 0
 Isn't that a Grimeca System 8 ?
  • 1 0
 Ah, re-use the old name and bleedproces..recycling is good..
  • 1 0
 I checked few times if that wasn't 1st of April...
  • 1 0
 I'm sure that no matter how much you Db8 it, mineral oil is superior.
  • 1 0
 Just do the whole dang line already. Please?
  • 1 1
 Reading the detail from their press release *Not recommended for #Ebikes
  • 1 0
 It's a trap!
  • 1 2
 DB8=DEBATE
As in what kind of "debate" will I have with sram when I call them next month when they stop working.
  • 1 0
 fork oil .
  • 1 0
 They’re ugly
  • 1 0
 Marketing BS
  • 4 4
 The new Sram DeadBea8
  • 7 10
 Didn't they just make a video where they were trying to show that DOT fluid performs better?
  • 5 0
 Read the third paragraph for clarification of this point.
  • 1 1
 Same thing came to mind
  • 18 20
 Get rid of DOT forever in bikes!
  • 8 8
 Yes, please. Such a dumb idea....not EVERYTHING transfers over from motor sports.
  • 1 0
 Why?
  • 1 0
 @lenniDK: no dump dot on your car or bike paint
  • 4 7
 Sram sucks!
  • 4 0
 Hey! They are good for a month!
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