As a side dish to the main course that's the new Eagle Transmission
, SRAM has released a line of 'Stealth' brakes. The Stealth designation comes from the orientation of the hydraulic line – it exits the lever body at an angle, putting it closer to the handlebars for a cleaner look, reducing the need to have large loops of housing extending in front of the bars.
While the design was likely inspired in part by the unfortunate increase in the number of bikes with thru-headset cable routing, it's compatible with all frames, stems, and handlbars – SRAM say there are no known incompatibilities at this time In addition, the current configuration will still remain in the lineup for the time being.
As an added bonus for the racers out there, the orientation of the Stealth brakes should make it a little easier to get that race plate mounted up. I have found that the new housing orientation can make it a little more likely to rub on a handlebar, especially if a pile of gritty mud gets between the line and the bar. A little strip of electric tape or clear frame protector probably isn't a bad idea to help prevent any potential scuffing.Code Ultimate & Silver
For the Code brakes, the only real update is to the look of the lever body, and the addition of an Ultimate version, which receives a carbon lever blade and titanium caliper hardware. The internals and functionality are essentially the same, although there are a few unique parts that will require a specific spare part kit. Bike shops love keeping track of more SKUs, right?
We did see SRAM's DH athletes testing a new caliper
on the World Cup circuit last year, but there's no sign of that becoming available to the public any time soon.
The top-tier Code Ultimate Stealth model is accompanied by the Code Silver Stealth brakes, which trade out the carbon lever for an aluminum one, and the titanium hardware for stainless steel. That adds a few grams while also reducing the price – the Code Ultimate brakes retail for $300 per wheel, while the Code Silver brakes are priced at $265 USD. Both versions have a tool free reach adjust and pad contact adjust, and use a bearing at the lever pivot. Level 4-Piston & 2-Piston
The Code brakes stick with the same caliper, but a new 4-piston caliper has been added to the Level lineup. According to SRAM, the idea behind the new more powerful option was to deliver trail bike stopping power in an XC weight class. We recently received a pair for review, so look for that later this year, which will include comparisons and actual weights.
There's a two-piston option as well, for riders looking to save weight wherever possible. Like the Codes, the Ultimate versions receive carbon levers and titanium hardware, and the Silver versions get aluminum levers and stainless steel caliper bolts. Both version have a tool-free reach adjust and use a bearing, rather than a bushing, at the lever pivot.
Level 4-Piston Ultimate: $300
Level 2-Piston Ultimate: $285
Level 4-Piston Silver: $195
Level 2-Piston Silver: $185
I hope not .
Just an FYI for all the editors and commenters that are entirely blind to the process of how products get to market but who love to tell us how marketers are always the source of the problems…
It seems like a joke to me honestly
Or, well, anything else.
I've made a couple changes to friends bikes (both big S bands) and it has made significant improvements for them.
Ive ridden most brakes out there, and with the exception of the Dominions, they all seem to have a similar amount of effort required, so I'm curious to what youre experiencing.
Also, what issues are you having regarding over heating? Do you drag your brakes a bit while riding? Do you brake early and light, rather than late and heavy?
When is the last time you did a complete rebuild on your Code brakes (not just a bleed), I feel like your due.
Buddy was complaining about similar issues, then went on to tell me hes only ever bled the brakes 2 in a 3 year period, no servicing, no seals, no nothing.
I own Codes, they're mid. They manage heat poorly despite using DOT fluid and need more frequent bleeds than Shimano because of that dumb DOT fluid.
Shimano's combination of mineral oil and cooling fins on the pads/caliper is absolutely proven to manage heat better than any SRAM brake. It's just better engineering. But I guess I won't change your mind enjoy those crappy codes pal.
Whatever you don't let SRAM find out what you're experimenting with. If you're right, you and the DB8's could be silently "discontinued" if you catch my drift
Love that you've had a good experience with them but the fact you haven't bled your brakes in four years tells me everything I need to know about your bike knowledge.
And I hate DOT fluid with a passion.
be more worried about the stuff you put in the dishwasher... thats nasty stuff
just bled a buddy's G2 RSC with him, with bleeding edge it's very clean/easy, spillage requires an epic screw up. no rinky dink open plastic cups to screw into metal threads.
That being said I love my Code RSC but not sure why anyone would buy these if they already have working ones, also the "new" Level 4 piston caliper just looks like the Guide caliper. I bet the Guides will probably be phased out of the line up to prevent too much overlap.
Code RSCs rule and if the silver still has the swing link it might be a good product.
At some point Charlie Brown can't blame Lucy when she pulls it away.
They already did the same thing with their road brakes.
The only issue so far, is the speeds are much higher, so the consequences when you f&*k up get bigger.
I had a Sentinel before it, loved it, its a longer travel version, with no drawbacks
Also have a Fugitive, but like the Spire more for both climbing and decending
you can literally raise the fork by 10mm, and put a 275 front wheel on...
IIts cool that you dont want the new bike, but your reasoning is just being argumentative for no reason
I hate the way every brand under the sun took their playful 27.5 bikes and added big front wheels to them. They might be great at what they do, but to me they've all totally missed the point.
stop your whinging
But how does it look when going into my headset routing?
I know of various small clamps to clamp two cables together, none are stem related.
To whom who over heat codes or any other dh brakes - how are u doing that?
At last a good idea! can I swap this pump and lever on my Guide brakes?
Or perhaps that cable routing is more popular because of these brakes?