Suspension, Anti-Lock Brakes, and a Dropper Post Cable Kit - Taipei Cycle Show 2019
Starting at $549 USD, the upated Aion gets Suntour's PCS damper.
The Aion all-mountain fork always sat just below the higher-end Auron model on Suntour's family tree, but it impressed enough back in 2015 to win the Best Value Product of the Year. It sounds like the Aion might surprise a few more people, though, with there being an EVO model for 2020 that gets Suntour's sealed PCS damper cartridge used in the Auron.
The layout of the sealed, spring-backed Piston Compensator System is not new - it's been around for many years inside of competitor's forks and shocks. Suntour's goal, however, is to bring the benefits of a sealed cartridge damper with an IFP system - damping consistency thanks to 1Nm of back-pressure provided by the IFP and the spring behind it - to lower price-points. In other words, better suspension that costs less.
Travel options will run from 130mm to 150mm for big wheels, and 130mm to 160mm for 27.5'' hoops. They'll be a few different models of the updated Aion, with prices ranging from $549 to $579 USD that still put it well below the pricier Auron. Expect the Aion EVO to hit the shelves by this coming September.
Travel options will run from 130mm to 150mm for big wheels, and 130mm to 160mm for 27.5'' hoops. They'll be a few different models of the updated Aion, with prices ranging from $549 to $579 USD that still put it well below the pricier Auron. Expect the Aion EVO to hit the shelves by this coming September.
There'll be a few different options, including one with a crown-mounted lockout lever.
Jagwire's $20 USD Pro Dropper Cable Kit is designed to have less friction than a standard shift cable and housing, which can be especially important when dealing with tight bends.
Cables and housing don't exactly make for riveting reading but stay with me here because Jagwire's Pro Dropper Cable Kit might be a useful upgrade for riders facing a not so uncommon issue.
Internally routed dropper posts are great, aren't they? No more having to use a dozen zip-ties to keep slack housing from rubbing your legs or rear tire, and bikes just plain look better when all the lines disappear from view until they get to wherever they need to be. Installation can be a headache, sure, and there's often a relatively tight bend in the line where it transitions from being inside of your downtube to being inside of your seattube. That means friction, and friction means that the remote is harder to push and that the cable might even have slack in it despite it not being activated.
The answer according to Jagwire: More flexible housing and a smoother running cable, which is exactly what you'll find in the $19.95 USD Pro Dropper Cable Kit. The 4mm housing looks a lot like what you'd find connecting your shifter and derailleur, but they've used a more flexible type of steel for its construction that better handles tight bends.
The cable is also not your run of the mill job, with it measuring just 0.8mm in diameter. Regular shift cables are 1.2mm across, so you can see where they're going with this. The polished cable is also stainless steel and felt impressively smooth between my fingers.
The cable is also not your run of the mill job, with it measuring just 0.8mm in diameter. Regular shift cables are 1.2mm across, so you can see where they're going with this. The polished cable is also stainless steel and felt impressively smooth between my fingers.
Jagwire had their Pro Bleed Kit on display as well.
Anti-lock brakes for your bike could make more sense than it sounds like, especially for new riders.
We've seen OutBraker and their small ABS add-on before, but now they've got a sleeker, smaller production-spec version that blends in much better than the older design. A lot of riders (including myself) dismissed the OutBraker gizmo as, well, just another gizmo, but I can see why it might be useful to some riders now that they've had a second go at explaining the concept to me.
Just like the anti-lock brake system in your car, the idea is to keep the wheel from locking up when you yank on the brake lever, especially in panic situations. It's adjustable as well, with riders able to tune how much it affects their braking via a small dial. Remember, you have the most braking traction just a nip before the wheel locks, so if you can keep it right on that edge, you'll effectively be getting the shortest stopping distance.
It's essentially a small pressure regulator that screws into your hydraulic disc brake levers or calipers. Okay, so it's probably not the thing for a lot of us, but put yourself in the shoes of a green rider, or someone whose introduction to mountain biking is a rental rig in a bike park, and the idea might begin to make a lot more sense.
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what we really need is more race coverage on the EWS - that means more action footage on every stage in every leg..
another thing we need is more rounds on the world cup circuit..be it XC or DH..
stopping the so called "INOVATION" i already have the best bike i need for my riding...
As a big fan of old cars without anti-lock, I would argue that this is true for cars too! To each their own.
Check his 3rd/4th braking test on E-MTB.
Pretty Shorter than what you imagine
"explained brake modulation to them at the age of five?" Yes
"It’s not...easy..." Agreed
At the end of the day, if you're putting a regulator on your DH brakes to reduce the power, yo should have just purchased trail or XC brakes in the first place.
but i could see where it would be handy on a rental bike fleet on the front brake so that inexperienced riders do not kill them selves going over the bars by grabbing a hand full of front brake. But i suppose that how we all learned
but i would like to see it tested.
The bikes a 2015 and I have bled them once and that was more of a "I wonder how I am supposed to bleed these, I should probably learn" type thing
I suspect that you are correct about this being something you learn riding motorcycles. On my old Norton road bike I was replacing front brake pads maybe every 5K miles. Never replaced the rear drum shoes. On the motocross bike it was the same thing. If you need to slide the rear you use the engine.
On the bicycles, front pads are an annual replacement item. The rear go when they get so badly contaminated that they don't work at all. On the road bike, It is maybe 4 front pads to each rear. On the tandem, Both seem to go every other year. I use the rear as a speed limiter, which is not a bad idea on a touring tandem.
As for the gizmo in question? Why not just install smaller brakes?
a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjO4c3UmKXhAhUDr54KHSCkBMcQjRx6BAgBEAU&url=https%3A%2F%2Fbikerumor.com%2F2016%2F12%2F20%2Foutbraker-doubles-puts-full-anti-lock-control-brakes-single-lever%2F&psig=AOvVaw2lR-z_QehDYcA8WZSxaBJT&ust=1553874747692998">link/a>
This is beyond terrible.
The converse to your point would be "anyone who doesn't understand why abs could be a detriment in mtb is on meth."
Consider the question, if street bikes have ABS, why don't equally expensive motocross bikes have it?
Hint: it's the surface.
Hint: it’s not the surface, it’s R&D.
But
Seems way better braking performance than your thinking and ordinary riders for sure.
Hope you stopping imagine and check the REAL performance first before.
youtu.be/yTy_yp_mSXU