This week's Tech Tuesday takes a closer look at rebuilding the Manitou Dorado
. While the Dorado leads the pack in performance, a little love can go a long way in keeping things running smoother for longer.Some pointers before you begin...
• While everyone has to start somewhere, and this isn't the most technically demanding job, it still isn't for everybody. If you have some doubts about being able to get it done, don't start. Likewise, you need every single tool listed below to do this task - no substitutes. If your fork needs some love but you don't feel up to the task, take it to your local shop to have the work done by the pros.
• Anytime that you are dealing with suspension, you need to be aware that there may be residual pressure within... even if you've let out all of the air. Take your time and wear eye protection to prevent injury.
• As always, clean your work area before beginning this job. An organized work area is an efficient work area and you'll be less likely to lose parts.
• Be sure to write down both your rebound and compression damping settings, as well as your air pressure, before taking things apart. This will save you setup time once you have the fork back on your bike.
• The easiest way to loosen the fork's top caps is to first back off the clamping bolts on the top crown and then crack the caps before loosening off the lower crown's bolts and removing the legs. While the top caps should never need to be overly tight, this method can still make the first step of this job much easier.
• This is very important
- too much oil in the fork will prevent it from attaining full travel and possibly damage the internals. Too little oil and your fork will suffer from inconsistent damping... get it right! Stoking the damper rod and rotating the leg while draining the oil will help to empty the leg.
• Take a few minutes when you have the fork apart to inspect the seals, stanchions, and internals for any damage that may be present.
• Stroking the damper rod while adding new oil will let it flow into the damper and is vital to attaining the correct oil height.
• Be sure to double check any and all bolts on the fork once you have everything back together and it on your bike. This includes crown bolts, caliper and axle bolts, and even the bolts holding on the leg guards.A note about fork oil
: The oil used for damping has very different demands than the oil that is best used for lubrication. The damping oil, in this case it is a 5w fluid, is designed to resist cavitation (foaming
) as the piston and internals travel though it at a high rate of speed. Cavitation can cause inconsistent damping as the damper now has to deal with air in the oil. Lubrication oils, such as the the 5w full synthetic recommended in the Dorado, are made to resist shearing forces and let the parts slide as smoothly as possible. Yes, you can use damping oil for lubrication. No, it won't work as good. If you have a fork as nice as the Dorado, you're far better off taking the time to use the correct oil in the correct places.If you've never worked on your Dorado before
, you'll be doing yourself a big favor by taking a few minutes to read the manual found on the Manitou support page
before watching the video below. Better yet, print it out and have it on hand in case you get lost. Even if you've done this job numerous times, it doesn't hurt to refresh your memory.What's needed: hex key set
, 12/13/36 mm wrenches
(or an adjustable wrench
), shock pump, 5w suspension fluid, 5w full synthetic semi-bath fluid (full synthetic 5w40 motor oil
), drain tank (for old oil
), eye protection and nitrile gloves
.Learn how to rebuild your Manitou Dorado:
Have you done this job? Want to add a tip or hint of your own? Put it down below!
Past Tech Tuesdays
:Technical Tuesday #1 - How to change a tube. Technical Tuesday #2 - How to set up your SRAM rear derailleur Technical Tuesday #3 - How to remove and install pedals Technical Tuesday #4 - How To Bleed Your Avid Elixir Brakes Technical Tuesday #5 - How To Check And Adjust Your Headset Technical Tuesday #6 - How To Fix A Broken Chain Technical Tuesday #7 - Tubeless Conversion Technical Tuesday #8 - Chain Wear Technical Tuesday #9 - SRAM Shift Cable Replacement Technical Tuesday #10 - Removing And Installing a HeadsetTechnical Tuesday #11 - Chain Lube ExplainedTechnical Tuesday #12 - RockShox Totem and Lyric Mission Control Damper ModTechnical Tuesday #13 - Shimano XT Crank and Bottom Bracket Installation Technical Tuesday #14 - Straightening Your Derailleur HangerTechnical Tuesday #15 - Setting Up Your Front DerailleurTechnical Tuesday #16 - Setting Up Your CockpitTechnical Tuesday #17 - Suspension BasicsTechnical Tuesday #18 - Adjusting The Fox DHX 5.0Technical Tuesday #19 - Adjusting The RockShox BoXXer World CupTechnical Tuesday #20 - Servicing Your Fox Float ShockTechnical Tuesday #21 - Wheel Truing BasicsTechnical Tuesday #22 - Shimano Brake Pad ReplacementTechnical Tuesday #23 - Shimano brake bleedTechnical Tuesday #24 - Fox Lower Leg Removal And ServiceTechnical Tuesday #25 - RockShox Motion Control ServiceTechnical Tuesday #26 - Avid BB7 Cable Disk Brake Setup
to see their entire lineup of tools and lubes.
Good to know that you're back and apparently have time on your hands! I'll see you soon bro.
Boxxer World Cup Air $1700
Dorado Pro $1700
Fox 40 $1600
This is also something to look at if you are running less than 50 PSI in your spring leg, it's probably because the pressure in the dampener leg has increased. I was running 30PSI in my spring leg and now I'm at 55PSI (I'm 165lbs). Slowly crack open your dampener leg top cap and let the air out, then try setting your air spring pressure again. This is nothing new though, burping forks is old school so you manitou haters can stuff it before you go telling the world that it's a major problem.
I did notice the service manual currently on Manitou's site lists a 2 more additions of oil on the air side for a total of 40cc's plus a little more for step 2 that are not mentioned in the video. Maybe the procedure has been updated since 2011 when this video was made.
(Or maybe it does not matter)
2. Lube the air piston on the Compression Rod
Assembly with a small amount of Semi Bath oil
(5/40wt. Synthetic oil, P/N: 85-0023), and slide it
into the top of the inner leg. (FIG. 1)
3. Inject 10cc of Semi Bath oil (5/40wt. Synthetic
oil, P/N: 85-0023) into the inner leg on top
of the air piston
8. Inject 30cc of Semi Bath oil (5/40wt. Synthetic
oil, P/N: 85-0023) into the outer leg on top
of the inner leg. (FIG. 7)
Flexy and over priced, with dated internals
Pointless tech tuesday.
I do appreciate what your saying though and yes, it is useful to do these features on various products. I just feel sometimes that the way some articles are written they almost endorse or praise various brands/products. Of course the official line is that PB don't favour brands, but i cant help but think that you do in some cases.