Thule T2 Hitch Rack Review

Dec 3, 2010
by Mike Levy  


Thule T2 Hitch Rack


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Transporting our expensive steeds can be tricky sometimes, especially if you don't own a pickup truck. The options include stuffing it into the back of your car - never a good idea if you care even the slightest amount about your interior, a roof mounted rack - a real pain in the back if you have heavy bikes or a car that is over four feet tall, or a strap-mounted trunk rack - I don't know about you, but hanging my pride and joy off of a few straps does not sound like a good idea. The last, and usually the ideal solution, is a hitch mounted rack. Hitch racks usually have the most going for them, being the most solid and easiest to load and unload bikes from as well. The Thule T2 tested here is a tray style hitch rack, meaning that the bike fits into wheel holders, or trays, and is held upright by an adjustable arm. The T2 comes in both 1 1/4" and 2" receiver hitch sizes, and you can also install Thule's 2 Bike Add-On (fits the 2" model only) to expand the carrying capacity to four bikes in total. We've had our T2 on test for a full year now, but there are also a number of T2's that have been in use for much longer by some of our local riding crew, allowing us to see how well the rack holds up in the even-longer-term use.

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The T2 rack has a number of features that speed the process of installing and removing your bike, as well as some tricks up its sleeve that make living with the rack on the back of your vehicle a bit easier. First up, it will accept bikes with a wheelbase of up to 48", long enough for even the longest downhill bikes out there, but can be adjusted to also hold children's bikes in place too. This is possible via the T2's sliding rear wheel holder that can be positioned at any point needed along the length of the tray. The holder slides easily along the tray, doesn't require any tools to adjust, and there is a stud to keep it from coming off the end of the tray. A two position adjustable strap that uses a ratchet to snug down tightly against the rear wheel will fit around the biggest tires and all but the tallest aero road rims. Holding the bike upright is the Thule SecureHook ratcheting arm. Simply put the bike on the rack with its front wheel in the plastic wheel holder, swing the arm up and over the front wheel and close to the fork, and then push it down against the tire. This system prevents any contact of the rack with your expensive frame, but not the fork (more on that below), and holds the bike in place very solidly. If you've used a bike rack before you've no doubt been perplexed at some point as sometimes no matter how you mount the bikes, their seats, pedals, and bars want to keep you from putting more than one bike onto the rack. Because no one wants to try and solve that brain teaser before or after a ride, Thule has equipped the T2 with sliding trays that allow you to alter the position of the bikes to lessen the chance of contact. Four large allen head bolts hold each tray in place, but by loosening two of them you can easily move the tray to a better position. It isn't a job that you'd do all the time, but if you routinely carry the same bikes on the rack it makes sense to take advantage of this feature. Like most tray type racks, you can fold the T2 up when not transporting bikes, but it also can swing down and allow access to hatchbacks or trunks. The folding mechanism also gives the rack some extra clearance due to being offset above the hitch by a few inches - a good point to keep in mind if you have to drive through cross ditches or frequent rough roads. It should be noted that current T2 racks do come equipped with the STL2 threaded hitch pin and also locks for each arm, even though ours is pictured without. It's always a safe bet to run a cable lock through the bikes, the rack itself, and to the hitch on your vehicle for added insurance.

Thule T2 rack details:

  • • Thule's premier platform hitch rack
  • • Available in both 1 1/4" and 2" hitch sizes
  • • Can carry up to 4 bikes with the T2 plus a 2 Bike Add-On™ (sold separately, 2" receiver only)
  • • Hitch Switch™ lever tilts carrier away from vehicle for trunk, hatch or tailgate access
  • • Fits 20" to 29" wheel diameter bicycles with up to 3" wide tires
  • • Accommodates bicycles with disc brakes, thru-axles and other non-traditional frame designs
  • • Weight limits: 60lbs per tray/100lbs total for 1 1/4" version, 160lbs total for 2" model with 2 bike add-on attached
  • • MSRP $549.99 CAD
  • www.thule.com

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The T2 requires a bit of assembling out of the box, but nothing that the average person can't handle (way easier than IKEA), especially because the instructions are quite clear. The rack is quite heavy and looks to be up to the task and then some. Our 2" hitch model fit snugly into the receiver and tightened down to have no play between the two. The threads in the T2's receiver arm are not just a nut that has been tack welded in place as found on many other racks, but rather it uses deep threads that run the entire depth of the solid arm. Putting a bike on the T2 couldn't be any easier. Lift it up and place it into position with front wheel in the plastic cradle, snug the SecureHook ratcheting arm over the front tire, and then tighten down the rear wheel strap. The system holds the bike firmly in place, no matter how rough the road. I also installed the 2 Bike Add-On (for 2" receivers only) that allowed me to carry four bikes in total. Despite the extra leverage created by added length, the rack never once developed play at the receiver/hitch attachment. The ability to adjust the position of the trays came in especially handy once four downhill bikes of different makes were loaded onto the rack - no need to remove seatposts in order to clear the ends of other bike's handlebars meant no headache when it was time to load up. By pulling the lever located just above the hitch you can fold the rack up and out of the way when it isn't in use, but the rack's tight tolerances can make folding it up difficult, although this is a much better alternative to a rack that folds easy, but rattles around nonstop. With the 2 Bike Add-On attached, folding the rack became a two man job until I figured out an awkward way to do the job solo. Not ideal, but it is quite hefty once the extra bike attachment has been added.

bigquotesThe Thule T2 is a high quality rack that can hold nearly any type and shape of mountain bike securely no matter what the road conditions, but at this price I would expect to see better hardware used for the rear wheel ratchet strap and not have to worry about it marring my expensive fork. - Mike Levy

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There is no denying that the T2 is surely one of the sturdiest racks available. It is common to not find any play in the rack's folding mechanism's pivots even years down the road, and the less it shakes and shudders as you make your way down rough roads, the smaller the toll it will take on your bike and the rack itself. Our test unit has been in use for over a year now and has managed to shrug off the heft of multiple DH bikes and rough roads without breaking a sweat.
All is not perfect on the reliability front though, with some shortcomings that show up further down the road, which the majority of owner's racks will surely see, as the price of the T2 will have most expecting it to last many years. One major point of contention turned out to be the adjustable rear wheel strap, or rather the actual ratchet unit itself, which uses riveted pins to hold the unit together as opposed to something more secure. Like mentioned above, our test rack is still going strong, but I've seen a number of T2 units who's ratchets have simply fallen apart over time. A simple bungee cord does fine as a quick and dirty fix, but at the price that the T2 sells for I would expect nicer hardware to be used. Thule does offer a great warranty with the T2, so if you have any issues with the ratchet be sure to hit them up, just keep in mind that it doesn't cover abused racks. All of the small parts are available for aftermarket purchase as well.
My personal T2 has spent much of its life on the back of my vehicle as I drive on some rather rough back roads and I've discovered that the rack's trays tend to come lose over a month long period, despite using a thread locking compound on the bolts. While that's worth mentioning, I can't fault Thule too much for that as I would call it wear and tear. The same applies to your bike - if you treat it rough it'll need a proper going over more often than if you ride buff single track all season. Check the rack's bolts every now and then and you won't ever have an issue. A few reliability quibbles aside, my own, as well as many other owner's issue with the T2 stems from the secure and easy to use SecureHook bike holder. Thule notes that the system does not come in contact with the bike's frame, but what they don't say is that it certainly will make contact with the majority of fork lowers out there. I found that it quickly marred the finish of the fork on any bike I put on the rack, leaving an unsightly mark on the lowers on the outside of the leg. Am I nitpicking that the rack does a small bit of cosmetic damage to the bike? I don't think so, not when many forks cost well over a grand, and the rack itself is not exactly inexpensive either. The solution is put something soft between the two, but it simply shouldn't be required.
The T2 isn't free of faults, but it does the job of holding your bikes in place as well as you could ask of it. It needs a bit of attention if you travel on rough roads, and the rear wheel strap's ratcheting unit could be sturdier, but in the end the rack is easy to use, putting bikes on the rack couldn't be easier (it is nearly a one handed job) and the rack will accept pretty much any shaped bike out there as long as it has two wheels and a wheelbase that isn't of circus proportions. Install the two Bike Add-on as shown on the Toyota above and you can carry four bikes without hassle.

Visit the Thule website for more information.


Do you have a Thule T2 bolted to the back of your vehicle? Let us know if you agree or disagree with our assessment this high-end hitch rack - put your thoughts down below!

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104 Comments
  • 37 0
 a word of advice: NEVER assume that your bike will be fine without the rear strap. it wont
  • 12 2
 I have had the T2 since June of this year, I have the same issues with the fork rubbing and have also had problems with the rear wheel strap coming un-buckled. The front tire mount is strong enough that my bike was held in place. I now use a toe strap to capture the rear wheel strap. My only other gripe about the T2 is the finish quality. I am pretty anal and consider myself very good about cleaning up my stuff after a ride. Almost all the paint has come off the tray under the sliding rear wheel mount and the arms and other spots are rusting pretty heavily. I am hoping that it holds up, if not I am sure Thule will stand behind it.
  • 2 0
 what make/model is that truck in the pictures?
  • 5 0
 I really hate Thule for not selling this model in Europe.
  • 8 0
 looks like a toyota to me. reminds me of the one in back to the future Drool
  • 2 2
 AirBorneone101, I think you should hate Europe for not letting Thule sell them here. Thule sells a lot here, so I'm blaming the people who approve or reject car accessories.
  • 1 0
 Yeah that is definitely a Toyota in the pic. The old 4x4 was awesome. I had an 85 with more than 250,000 miles on the odometer and it ran great.The beds always rusted apart though. Cheap steel . . .
  • 7 5
 I work in a bike shop and we sell both thule and sportrack. i personaly prefer sportrack's TwoEazy and FourEazy models since they're a lot less expensive than the thule models. both have similar features. the sportrack models however do not fold away for when you don't use tem.

i personnaly own a TwoEazy and have been using it for 3 years now, it's very reliable and simple to use. only downside is that the weight limit is set at 45lb per bike. might be a problem if you have a karpiel appocalypse with super monsters

sportrack twoeazy retails for 250$ cad
thule t2 around 500$ cad.
you do the math
  • 2 0
 /if you have a spare tire on the back of your car, will the T2 clear it when folded up?
  • 1 0
 killer toyota, mtr's look great on it! all of the platform hitch mounts have the rubbing issue on the bigger forks, very common. easily solveable with a towel and some zip ties on the part of the rack that rubs on the fork. worsk well for us.
  • 2 0
 RobbyBriers, I don't agree. As this is a Thule USA product, it cannot be exported, even though Thule is a europeen brand...
  • 3 1
 "the rear wheel ratchet strap and not have to worry about it marring my expensive fork."...how does the rear ratchet strap marr your fork if it's on the rear and your fork is presumably on the front of your bike? Not sure how you guys install forks in the "whack " but....lol
  • 1 0
 its a late 80's toyota, I would expect to be about an 87? I need tired like that on mine..... I just figure use the pickup bed, racks are nice but you dont have problems with a dakine pad.
  • 2 1
 if you have a truck why the heck would you buy a freaking bike rack... just throw the bikes into the back of the truck, and stap em down! btw, that truck is soooo sick.
  • 9 1
 *coughjustbuyanorthshorerackcough*
  • 1 0
 bike fixer bare in mind they probably got it free to do the test, so who'd complain eh
  • 1 0
 the only down side to using the dakine pad is that some times the tail gate will just fall on its own when your going down some super bumpy roads, but that is a completely different issue
  • 1 0
 it just kinda popped into my mind, and i was just slightly confused. thank you for clearing it up for me Smile
  • 1 0
 So what we really need isn't a rack for trucks, but a tailgate lock.
  • 1 0
 or both, depends on what kind of person u are. Wink
  • 4 0
 I have hade mine including the 2 bike add on for over 4 years and have never had an issue. I would suggest that if you run the 4 bike unit that you use it on a vehicle that is a little higher off the ground or purchase an adapter to lift it so that it does not drag when transitioning on sharp inclines. I would highly recommend it. Its worth the extra cash to make sure bikes don't get beat up when transporting and it is fast and easy to use. It will also tilt so that you can access the back of your vehicle. I get almost as many compliments on my nice rack as my wife does.
  • 3 0
 Friend of mine has a northshore rack, and its the bomb. His ford explorer fits SIX bikes on the northshore rack and those 6 people in the vehicle. From a shuttling point of view this means more people in each shuttle and less vehicle retrievals. The Thule and Yakima setups are 2 or 4, the northshore doesn't need adapting or extending it fits 1-6 bikes, plus they shimmed the receiver so it doesn't sway, universally fits any bike, fits any vehicle with a trailer hitch. Worth the investment for sure.
  • 2 0
 Agreed. I’ve seen both and used friends. The North Shore is a better product IMHO. Shorter overhang and super quick to use.
  • 1 0
 I would echo these sentiments - had an NS rack for 2 years now and will never go back to another style.
  • 1 0
 Ive seen several of those snap at the black clamp that holds the arms to the center... One guy on here known for reviews watched his Sunday go bouncing down the road at 70mph... Another buddy of mine had his fail on the 2nd to last bike mount same place...

Randys was cracking there and Alan returned his because of a crack....

Other than that they are great racks and alot of other people run them with no issues, I went saris cyclon pro and put several thousand miles on it with 2 DH bikes traveling and hitting off road access no issues but like anything its just a matter of time till something fails... So eventually Im sure even my rack would have issues...

ALWAYS strap and lock the bikes down.....


BTW pretty BAD!$$ YOTA!!! I like.... Good job on it.
  • 1 0
 werd. When mine failed I wasn't even carrying a heavy bike. Lost it on the freeway going 70mph + on the fast lane. I was pretty damn lucky that traffic was light that morning, which is a rare occurrence here in the Bay Area. Had this caused an accident, I would have been liable.

img504.imageshack.us/img504/8513/rack1qx6.jpg

I'll never use one of those racks ever again.
  • 1 0
 When i was shopping for racks it was between this and the cycleon by saris, and what won my purchase was the saris because of its way of securing the rear wheel seemed more trustworthy than the thule, and the front arm doesnt touch the fork or frame, only the front tire.
  • 1 0
 I've owned a T2 for 4-5 years and i am on my second one right now. Thule has an amazing warranty. My first Thule T2 was a bit of a trial and error. Here is what i'ved learned over the years. If you live in an area that has snow a few months out of the year, TAKE YOUR RACK OFF.Road salt will make your rack rust to the point of the metal falling apart (literally)). Especially, all the bolts (you will never be able to tighten then up again or take them off), the arms will rust and break and the ratchet will fall apart. it will not open and close smoothly ever again. Trust me, take it off in the winter.
For my second T2 , I decided to change all the bolts with stainless steel ones before installing the rack. It was a whole $30 investement at Home Depot but worth it. I'll probably be taking the rack off this weekend as snow is on the way.
As for the cosmetic scratches on the fork, use a cloth or sock. it doesn't matter as long as there is something. It takes a split second to put on and take off.
also, my car needed an extension to the trailer hitch
Great rack.
  • 1 0
 We have used the T2 plus the additional to make it a four bike rack for 4 year now and have had a similar experiance. When we changed over to higher quality bolts we also drilled out the front wheel tray and put stove bolts right through from the top.
  • 1 0
 I have had the ratchet mech on the ratcheting arm that holds the front wheel freeze up in cold temps and not lock. You can manually force it to lock by lifting the ratcheting tab, but it makes me nervous when temps are below freezing. Also wondering if the plastic-on-plastic ratchet will eventually fail. In the summer months this has proven to be a great rack system that is very easy to use. Mine did come with some mounting hardware that had been started at the wrong angle at the factory so the threads were stripped. My local dealer swapped out the hardware and the tray mounting brackets so it was not a big deal, but could have been if the dealer wasn't so supportive.
  • 1 0
 I had one for two years, and loved it! Never had any problems with rust, hardware loosening, or straps breaking. I removed it from my vehicle after every use and hung it in the garage though, in order to prolong the life of it, and keep it tip top. I ended up selling it and now miss it quite a bit. I'd give it five out of five gold stars, and definitely recommend it to any other riders looking for a good rack system!
  • 1 0
 My buddy was rocking one of these on his Toyota FJ and it's honestly the best rack I've ever used. Was awesome for shuttles on the local DH trails. I personally didn't notice any blemishes on the lowers for any of my bikes that went on the rack but we did notice the shitty rear ratchet pieces slowly dieing. Great rack for the money but I personally run a Sportrack tray rack and have been loving it for over 5 years now without a single problem at all. Like anything, if you take care of it, it will last.
  • 1 0
 I think the sentiment has already been noted above, but just to reiterate, while Thule products are usually well designed, the finish quality is usually lacking. I don't own a T2, but I do own some Thule roof rack products, and finish is somewhat poor, such a premature rusting of certain components, etc. For the price premium, I definately expect better.
  • 1 0
 Get a North Shore rack. I've used both and while the bikes are easier to get on for smaller people with the Thule the NS rack holds them better and doesn't sway and move like the Thule. They are cheaper too when you consider the add on for the 4 bike on the Thule.
  • 1 0
 would love one, but the upfront cost is prohibitive. I know a local welder who I've been tempted to show pics of it to....just to see how he would charge to re-create the same thing.
  • 1 0
 agree 100%. if i needed a rack i would use a northshore rack. they are quite popular out here, and its popularity is amongst the shuttling afficionado's. then again, most of the riders out here own trucks, and build racks for their bikes to hang from the backs of the trucks- when done properly i think they are the best- and the lazy fellas use those dakine bags to cover the tailgate.
  • 1 0
 I have a T-2 & Yakima Hook up ......... Yakima slays the T-2 ... T-2 its a good rack but has simple flaws ie Fox 40 gets all the powder coat rubbed off and the rear strap for the wheel is not fixed (as mentioned above) .. and I'm a Thule dealer. But yes great warranty and they keep replacing stuff for as long as you own it.
  • 1 0
 I make a living selling THULE and YAKIMA. I use the T2 almost everyday. I have nothing but good things to say about THULE and the T2. (and T2 with the add on). I have the T2 mounted on the hitch of my 08 Mazda and I take it places I probably shouldn't even take my truck. Never fails and the bike are always secure! Plus it's so easy to load.. Try putting your 40lbs bike on your roof after a shoulder injury...Not happening! T2 all the way!
  • 1 0
 I have owned this rack for 5 years and love it. Only one major issue. If your front wheel is not a bolt on, your bike can be taken in seconds! CHAIN YOUR BIKE UP!!! I learned my lesson the hard way and have never had a problem since.
  • 1 0
 Thule is the only way to go with DH bikes. If you got the wide bars, adjust the position of the rack and BOOM! There ya go! Easiest to load. THULE!
  • 1 0
 Yeah but not everyone has a truck. I own this very same rack and I would trust a 7-8K bikes on the back with the locks especially it is the gibraltar of racks. The back strap is something that could be of a higher grade than just plastic especially when a big investment is planning on being secured to the thing. Other than that I would recommend it anyone.
  • 2 1
 I have seen these racks chew up bikes on FSR's. The extended rack beyond the rear of the truck creates a huge cantilever effect on the rack and tends to hang up on water bars. There is a lot of torsion about the receiver and eventually loosens everything, so you have to constantly re-tighten bolts and add shims.
A really good rack is the North Shore rack:
www.northshoreracks.com (??)

The rack sits closer to the back of the vehicle and there is virtually no "rubbing" going on. There is still lateral movement about the receiver, however not to the degree of the Thule. I highly recommend the NS racks.

Then again, a blanket over the tailgate and pads on your pedals and fork legs + tie-downs is still the tried and true. If only I could figure out a way to magically make my truck drive back down to the trail head!! Smile
  • 2 0
 I have the T2. I love everything about it but agree with others about the rear wheel ratchet strap. Other than that it's perfect for my DH bike and I would recommend one to anybody.
  • 1 0
 A friend has a thule t2 rack, and seems to like it a lot. The fork marring is a legitimate worry though. I use a Raxter rack (I'm not shilling, just a happy customer) and I love it, it takes longer to put the bike on, but makes contact only with the tires of the bike.
  • 1 0
 One great thing about the Thule T-2/ Sportswork rack is the fact that if it is hit, one can purchase replacement parts and bolt them on. My Saris was bent when I hit a low parking pole in an indoor garage that I didnt see, and I had to replace it, which was expensive. When someone hit my T-2, I was able to replace the bar, brackets and bronze bushings for $80.00.
  • 1 0
 i have had mine over two years. live in Bend OR (so you know what it is exposed to) i see a lot of the T2's here and it seems that the ones that get loose are just being abused. big load and fast off road.... greaat rack ! i add 8 min. everytime i ride just from time saved. more riding by several days
  • 1 0
 I've had this rack since 2008 and it has been great with no problems. I got it so that it was eaiser for my wife to load the bikes if she wanted to go riding with the kids. Just this past summer we went on a 11,000km trip around Canada & the US with the rack on the back of our RV. I've used this rack like crazy for my road bike, my all mtn bike & my dirt jumper with ease of loading within seconds. I will never go back to any other rack other than Thule. Worth the $$
  • 1 0
 If you run a vehicle with rear mounted spare that has a larger size and/or backspace...The fold down and up features do not work due to the lever hitting your tire. A huge pain in the ass on my 08' Jeep JK w/ 32's and 4.5" backspace.
  • 1 0
 Just wanted to post an alternative to the Thule. The company is called Tuf Racks and their stuff looks pretty much indestructible, couldn't be simpler to use and definitely wont mess up your bike. Here's a pic of a 4 bike: flic.kr/p/8YDM41
should be available for purchase pretty soon.
  • 1 0
 had mine for 2 years now - no complaints, it's heavy duty and works great. however it is pricey as shit, and at the time I got mine, you had to buy the bolt and lock that secured it to your hitch separately, which was pretty lame.
  • 1 0
 These racks are notorious for rubbing the front fork especially the fox 40 due to their width. My best guess on the toyota would be an 1985 due to the smaller rear drum brakes.
  • 3 0
 I've been running a T2 for 3 years and had a few of the issues mentioned. The biggest area of concern for me was the fork rubbing. However, I did come up with a simple solution. Slide a piece of pipe insulation over the arm after you secure the front wheel. Now you have soft foam on your fork leg instead of the arm. Bit of a pain, but issue solved. Love the rack other then that!!!
  • 2 0
 That's just about my only issue with my T2, it really scratched up my 40. Other than that, hands down the best rack I have ever used, bar none. KillingtonVT, going to try that, thanks!
  • 1 0
 i just used duct tape and paper towels, it has worked for about a year now.
  • 1 1
 If it has a solid axel in the front it is probably an 85. In 86 they switched to independant suspension in the front. Ironically in 85 the started fuel injection so it was the only year you could get a true monster for off road. I miss my 85 4x4.
  • 1 0
 Its an 85. Pretty kick ass truck thats for sure!!
Now if only my 02 was SAS'd Frown ... one day
  • 1 0
 Tacomas are definitely more annoying to sas. More fab work involved.
  • 1 0
 yeah they are. Right now the plan is either to run the Taco with the modded IFS for a few more years, then when Trail Gear has sorted out their Taco SAS kit simply buy that and "learn" to fab it up. The work itself isnt the hard part, the correct angles are :S.
Or simply buy a mid 90's 80-series. Not too sure yet Big Grin
  • 1 0
 The third gen frames were easy as pie! Just zip a hole saw through the center cab mounts on both slides, beat the tubes in place, weld em up. Then jig up the front hanger, or build one, and weld that into place. All after cutting out the ifs of course. I currently want to get a 95 ish chevy s10 4x4 and swap in a 22r/w56/RF1A. Toyota drivetrain with cheaper, more available dff, brake and ther such parts. I think that would be the way to go. Never heard anything bad about the s10 frames.
  • 1 0
 I honestly havent researched too much into swapping my front end yet. I am running a mid travel IFS w/ 4.88's and its not too bad. Once I swap to larger tires and start busting CV's I am sure the SAS idea will become much more prominent. Unfortunately financially it just isnt in the cards right now, even doing all the work yourself it costs a good chunk of change. Why buy a chevy and then swap parts, just buy a Toyota in the first place. Then you can spend your time making it better. This way you simply make the Chevy into a partial Toyota, and that goes against everything I stand for Wink
  • 1 0
 Chevy parts are more abundant. With the cheap chevy parts and the toyota engine/tranny/transfer case you would have a reliable, cheaper to maintain truck that hopefully won't rust as quick. Older toyotas are too expensive or rare to get parts for. I love toyotas but it's so hard to find perfect frames under a solid truck!
  • 1 0
 old toyotas were made of cheaper metal because Japan had to import steel to manufacture them. The frames fold a lot because of that.
  • 1 0
 Not sure what years you are talking about but Toyota did have a recall on frames for some Taco's. If you plan on doing some crazy stuff you should be plating and beefing up the rails and x-members anyways. There are quite a few incredibly built old Yota's that dont have any frame issues what so ever. Chev parts are definately more abundant though and if you plan on swapping in axles and such anyways it wouldnt be a bad build.
  • 1 0
 I believe the 93 had an official frame recall. I've seen alot rotten out on the inside frame rail between the rear front spring bolt hanger and the gas tank. Toyota axles are hard to find, it's almost better just to get longfields and have lifetime warranty. Ditching the stock birfs. I really like toyotas, but mint owners with mint ones in my area would ask 5 grand upwards for the trucks pre-dating the tacoma...
  • 1 0
 Yeah but most of those trucks were dealt with by Toyota, full frame off replacements or they bought the truck back. Pretty good in my books, you certainly wouldnt see that from Chevy, but thats another story Wink

Toyota axle parts arent that tough, but certainly tougher than any aftermarket stuff thats true.
  • 2 0
 its a Toyota hilux (or tacoma in the US) i had one very similiar but white to that one, they are very good cars! check out youtube for topgears attempt at killing one.
  • 1 0
 got thule on my roof now, but i am building a new rack for my jeep now, and i think that the www.hollywoodracks.com is better than this one, and got more option and take less space behind the car, but this is my opinion....
  • 1 0
 I have had My Thule T2 for 2 years now without a single problem it has sure saved the inside of my Subaru I love this rack the only down side is it's almost $400 but other than that it's awesome
  • 1 0
 Reading that white print on the black background is maddening! Can you please write these long reviews in a manner that can be easily read? Even now, 3 minutes after I read the review, my eyes are screwy! Nice truck!
  • 1 1
 Great looking trays but...

When the tray arm is up and locked over a bike,
how is the bike "locked" when you're able to undo the quick release on the bike and remove the bike from the tray, then the front tire is yours for the taking....

Tooo easy to steal, so be careful!!!
  • 1 1
 I always wrap a cable lock through the bikes when I leave them for a minute. The new 2011's T2's have a built in cable lock that will wrap around the front of your bike.
  • 1 0
 The truck is a MK II, or fourth gen Toyota Hilux extra cab, 83 to 89. In North America it was known as the Toyota Pickup. The Tacoma came later and was a completely different platform designed for the U.S and Canada.
  • 1 1
 The new T2 for 2011 has a cable lock that goes around the front wheel for more protection. If you are in the market for a new rack check out the Kuat racks. They are super trick and have a bike stand on the back for working on your bike.

www.kuatinnovations.com/index.php?page=NV

It also has a cable that lives inside one of the cross members, just pull it out and your all locked up. The t2 secures to your car with only a bolt instead of a locking hitch pin. Any dude with a wrench can take the rack super easy.
  • 2 1
 >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Reality check - that thing is a TURD (yes all capitals) compared to the Yakima 4 biker.......
  • 1 0
 You definitely have to check out north shore racks. I've had many different setups including the yakima hold up and this t2 and the north shore will be around much much longer. It definitely loads differently and may not seem quite as convenient but it will last forever and is far more solid even carrying up to 200 lbs.
  • 2 0
 Northshore racks are whats up! Rugged and simple. They also don't tend to stick as far out as the thule (4 bike).
  • 1 0
 wow these are cool, i need to get me one os these, would make life alot easier!!
  • 3 0
 that truck is awesome !
  • 2 1
 they gonna have no problems getting places with that truck!!!
  • 2 0
 Shit yea that truck looks awesome all right f*ck that rack off & put a rack on the back of the truck & you will be able do to shuttles anywhere!
  • 1 0
 yeah! be awesome!!, just what i need, haha, i guse the old landrover will have to do for now Razz haha
  • 1 0
 its a 88 to 92 toyota, i believe pretty sick truck was there a bike rack in that picture??? lol
  • 1 1
 That is probably one of the nicest built up Yoda's I've seen. Get job man! (Looks like an 85..?)
  • 1 1
 oh how i wish i had the money to supe up my taco and have sweet mtn bikes. Smile mtn bike 4 life!
  • 1 0
 look s nice ,but i did mine for my truck whit some thule parts
  • 1 0
 Wow, Those bikes.....are so nice....
  • 1 0
 niceee, what are the handlebar on the 2nd bike from left to right?
  • 1 0
 Step 1, buy a truck. Step 2, throw bikes over tailgate. Step 3, profit.
  • 1 0
 screw the rack-I want the truck
  • 1 0
 Get a Kuat. LOL
  • 1 0
 nice!
  • 1 2
 is that a camanche?
  • 4 0
 toyota. either an 84, 85, or 86-88 sased. clean looking truck!
  • 2 0
 Its an 85, or whats left of an 85. Not sure what front axle is under it but it looks super clean. I love that rear bed as well!!
  • 1 0
 It's a mid '80s Toyota Hilux Extracab
  • 1 0
 pretty sure its not a Hilux
  • 1 0
 its an 86 for sure
  • 3 0
 in most countries other than canada/us it was branded a hilux. Our hilux trucks are right hand drive turbo diesel trucks imported from said countries. They used that same body style on 84-88, an the 89 4runners didn't receive the upgrade to the body like the pickup did so the front half resembled the 2nd gen toyota pickup. The 84 was a solid axle with the 22r stock and the 85 got the 22re, electronic fuel injection version of the same motor. In 86 they went to a 7.5" ifs front diff, removing the solid axles which would later be desirable by most people who like imports and venture into the bush. The 88 models of the pickup and 4runner had the new v6, 3vze (3.0L) option as well. Those engines blew and it wouldn't be til 95.5 til they upgraded it, along with the introduction of the Toyota Tacoma. The v6 and turbo models also got a beefier rear differential to take the added strain on the drivetrain with the hopped up motors. The 3vze is known for popping headgaskets hence why you see so many for sale with them blown or sub 300,000kms with their owners trying to flog em off before the bomb goes off. The 22r is known for it as well but goes a hell of a lot longer than the v6 simply with regular maintenance. If I am incorrect or you'd like to add some info I missed, it would be much appreciated. Toyota is some good sh!t.
  • 1 0
 they did have a head gasket recall on the 3vze's in the mid 90's. if im not mistaken, they used a different material head gasket, which solved the problem.
  • 1 0
 My first car was a dual-cab hilux to fit friends and bikes. One day it went missing from the front of my house. The cops called and told me it had be burnt. I cried, and I'm not ashamed to say I cried. I loved it. My next car had an immobiliser fitted the first day.
  • 1 0
 I would have cried also man!!
At least you can get the Hilux where you live Frown







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