TRP's Less Expensive Four-Piston Brake - Interbike 2017
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I've had TRP's G-Spec Quadiem brake, the very same model that some fast guy named Aaron Gwin uses, on my own bike for many months now. Sure, I might have less skill than Gwin possesses in the tip of his braking finger, but I've been impressed with the four-piston G-Spec stoppers, and especially their modulation; it's like my brain is hardwired directly to the huge silver calipers. My overdue review of those brakes will happen in the next few weeks, but let's take a look at another brake from TRP that probably deserves more attention: the standard Quadiem.
What's so neat about the non-Gwin-ified Quadiem? Well, they're the same brake mechanically as the pricier G-Spec model, but they don't sport some of the finishing details that Gwin's anchors do. That means they should perform the same but for less money, which is a win in my books.
The G-Spec brake comes in at $199 USD per end (without rotor), but you can snag a normal Quadiem for $149 USD (also sans rotor), which saves you $100 USD on a pair of brakes. For the same brake. Minus some fancy pants finishing details. Gwin who?
The G-Spec brake comes in at $199 USD per end (without rotor), but you can snag a normal Quadiem for $149 USD (also sans rotor), which saves you $100 USD on a pair of brakes. For the same brake. Minus some fancy pants finishing details. Gwin who?
Both the G-Spec and standard Quadiem models share the same finned, four-piston caliper that's home to ceramic/steel hybrid pistons, the same dimpled and drilled lever blade, as well as the same tool-free reach adjustment dial and split perch. But where TRP forges the G-Spec master cylinder/perch before putting it through a hand polishing process prior to anodizing, the normal Quadiem sees a cast top-end that doesn't receive the same special treatment and forgoes a few aesthetic touches.
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The G-Spec model does see a small update for 2018, one that will make its way to the less expensive standard Quadiem as well. TRP used to employ a rather large bleed nipple that stuck up out of the caliper like, well, a large nipple. It worked fine when you needed to do a bleed, but the updated caliper ditches the nip in place of a recessed screw and now requires the same threaded bleed fitting that you use at the opposite end of the system.
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Easiest bleed of any brake I have worked on
Endless tuneablity
GOBS of power (Stock pads kinda sucked but replaced with shimano Metalic) Epic performance
And very ergonomic lever feel
Did I mention I didn't have to sell my unborn children to pay for them?
TRP is now my favorite brand of brakes
On 6" type aggressive bikes, not enough stopping power we're both finding.
I switched to finned Shimano metal pads (Zee and Saint pads fit). Bit better but not really. Tried several different rotors (except TRP two peice). Just not enough power to stop in aggressive dh type situations - yes I know not dh bike, but on descents that are steep and fast, not enough power. From my personal experience, and another rider I know. Lever is nice with dimples. Just not for heavy riders and steep descents... Other areas good.
With a double syringe setup, once you finish the caliper bleed and have the wheel and pads installed, Force fluid into the system from the lever syringe until the wheel won't spin before you put the bleed screw back in. This wil set the pads closer to the rotor. It acts as a "free stroke adjustment" of sorts.
@flagstaff: These don't have a proper free stroke dial or screw of any kind. All the adjustments are possible in the bleed procedure tho.
I can give a more detailed bleed process to get these guys dialed if anyone wants.
I'd explain just how wrong you are but based on how confident you sound in that comment it's probably not worth my time.
Sorry man but Uuuuu is right.
He just didn't explain himself well.
Power comes from friction.
Friction is unrelated to the bleed.
Sure, if the bleed is so bad that the lever pulls right to the grip your brake won't work very well. But it could still have loads of friction and therefore power.
metal vs organic pads also has very little to do with it.
No mate. He's not.
The fluid system and the friction system are separate.
Dragon guy is saying that bumping up pad contact point makes the brake more powerful.
That's just not true.
Overfilling the system with oil doesn't make the brake any more powerful.
Off the start you will find that pressure (hydraulics) and surface friction (pads) are components of braking force so idk why you are trying to separate the two. Listen close to the rest of this rant.
With the cam system employed in the lever pivot you get a lot more fluid displacement in the first bit of lever throw than in the rest. The first bit is exponential leverage while the rest is more linear. Shimano calls this servo wave. It's responsible for their "slam shut" feeling. TRP uses similar trickery.
If you have the pad contact way out there so the pads are a mile apart then you used that huge hop up of fluid before your ever make contact with the rotor. The only bonus to this is that you can run a bent rotor with no issues. My slates came stock this way.
Mechanically you just can't force as much fluid into the caliper in the second half of the lever throw as you can in the first half. It's not a perfectly linear rate as so many people seem to think. It's designed this way on purpose.
So if you set those pads a whole lot closer to your rotors suddenly you make pad contact with the rotors while that cam is still in the exponential portion of the leverage curve. Which means you are capable of slamming exponentially more pressure down on those pads. Not only will it make the lever feel a lot more solid, it will reward you with a TON more pressure on the pads pressing against the rotors when you clamp down. Which in turn creates more stopping force.
Sure pressure and surface friction are two different variables but it takes both to create a braking force. You can't separate the two if we are talking about slowing a moving bicycle.
And if you run your levers really close to the bar like I do then you definitely appreciate that short and tight lever feel.
No buddy. Servo wave is a fishing feature that allows you to get more fish on the line faster, but in the end it still takes th same amount of time to deal with the fish once you reel them in. So basically it's a farce. Your robbing Peter to pay Paul.
It's ridiculous that trp thought they were gaining anything from ripping off this idea originally created in shimanos fishing department.
does that work for Shimano too? i am having issues doing my Zee brakes. i know they are bleed right and i kind of tried what you were talking about, but i did it from the caliper end. it still didn't do much, if anything. i'll have to buy the right thread in syringe to do what you are talking about.
No you just have to put up with whatever shit feel your shimanos give you.
Don't push fluid into the shimano lever it won't like it.
@inventor One thing I've done (if I have time) is do the bleed as normal. then, with the bleed block in place, squeeze the lever and then zip tie it down. This tends to force all the air up to the lever since everything is under pressure. In the morning, hold the lever down and cut the zip tie. Slowly release the lever. open the bleed port on the lever body and fill it to the top.
A friend of mine does this and I thought it was pretty ridiculous. Gave it a try and was really pleased. There seemed to be a much firmer action at the lever. He'll also do the trick where you pull the wheel out and squeeze the lever a couple times to bring the pads in and then reinsert the wheel. I haven't perfected that yet. I tend to over do it.
Of course this all assumes that your rotor is laser straight..
The zip tie trick is a good one.
Piston cleaning, exercise, and relubing is crucial for a crisp pad contact point.
And getting fresh oil in there regularly helps a lot that crap degrades so fast.
ok, i'm trying the zip tie trick tonight. how does one acquire the bolt the Saints have so i can put them on my Zees? i guess double check Jenson and see if they have it!