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Value Field Test: YT Capra Core 1 MX

Jul 12, 2023
by Mike Kazimer  

PINKBIKE FIELD TEST

YT Capra Core 1



Words by Mike Kazimer; photography by Tom Richards


This isn't the first time the YT Capra has been included a Pinkbike Field Test – the carbon framed, 29” wheel version made an appearance back in 2021. This time around, we went with the mixed wheel, aluminum model that offers an even better value, with a price tag of $2,699 USD. And if that's still too steep, it's currently on sale for $2,299 USD.

We set a price cap for this Value Field Test, but we didn't set any limits on travel. That gave us the freedom to include bikes like the Capra Core 1, which YT says “has “everything your average enduro ripper needs and nothing they don’t.” I'd say that statement isn't far off, and it could serve as an excellent entry point for riders looking to venture into more technical terrain, and maybe even line up for a race or two.
Capra MX Core 1 Details

• Travel: 170mm / 170mm fork
• Mixed wheels
• 64° head angle
• 77.4° seat angle
• 433mm chainstays
• Reach: 464mm (L)
• Sizes: S, M, L, XL, XXL
• Weight: 36.6 lb / 16.6 kg
• Price: $2,699 USD
• More info: yt-industries.com

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The Capra MX has 170mm of travel that's delivered by a RockShox Zeb Base fork and SuperDeluxe Select R shock. SRAM's mineral-oil filled DB8 brakes help keeps speeds in check, and shifting duties are taken care of by SRAM's 12-speed NX drivetrain. A Sun Ringle Duro aluminum wheelset is mounted up with a Maxxis Assegai / DHR II tire combo.

We stuck the Capra it in the low geometry position and kept it there for the duration of testing, which gives it a 64-degree head angle, 77.4-degree seat angle, and 433mm chainstay length. Our size large test bike had a 464mm reach, the shortest on test. For riders interested in sizing up, it's worth keeping an eye on the seat tube length. While the 445mm length on the size L is fairly typical, bumping up to a size XL results in a 470mm length, which could make running a longer dropper post a difficult, if not impossible task depending on a rider's height.




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Climbing

Along with having the most travel in our group of test bikes, the Capra also has the most weight, checking in at 36.6 pounds. That's with EXO casing tires too, so it'll bump up a bit if you decide to go with burlier rubber to match the bike's capabilities. That said, the weight does fade into the background fairly quickly, and as long as you didn't hop off a lighter bike immediately before heading out on the Capra it doesn't feel overly portly.

As far as efficiency goes, I'd put the Capra in the middle of the road. It doesn't dip too deeply into its travel unless you're standing up out of the saddle and really mashing on the pedals, and even then it's far from a wallowy mess. There's no climb switch on the shock, so there's no way to firm it up for extended fire road grinds, but that also means there's no danger of forgetting to open up the shock before you drop into a descent. If it did have a climb switch I probably would have reached for it on smoother climbs, but I wouldn't say it's a necessity.

The Capra has more of a compact seated climbing position, thanks to the steep seat tube angle and shorter reach, which adds in a level of maneuverability that's not always associated with a 170mm bikes. Sure, its handling isn't as quick and snappy as something like the 130mm GT Sensor, but it's also less of a handful than the Specialized Status was on more rolling, meandering trails.

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Descending

The Capra could be an attractive antidote for riders who feel that modern bikes have gotten too long and slack, or for newcomers who want to feel like they're telling the bike where to go rather than the other way around.

It's an easy bike to jump and whip through turns, and it tracked well in flat corners, providing a more balanced ride than the Status, which has a fairly long, slack front end paired with very short chainstays. Between the two bike, if I was going to pick one of them for an enduro race I'd go with the Capra – it's more of an all-rounder than the Status, and its middle of the road geometry mean there's a wide range of terrain where it feels right at home.

The shorter dimensions do become noticeable in steeper trails or at higher speeds, where it can feel like you're perched above the wheels rather than in between them. There's a little less room for error when faced with obstacles like steep, sequential drop-offs, but it's really only on the steepest, roughest trails where that trait became apparent. The fork Zeb Base fork may have played a role here – it wanted to sit fairly deep in its travel, while the shock ramped up fairly quickly, which meant it was a little tricky to find an ideal balance between the two.

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Components

The SRAM DB8 brakes worked very well, especially considering the overall price of this model. Often times lower priced brakes also deliver a much lower level of performance, but the DB8's were quiet and consistent. They do feel a little less powerful than their Code siblings, something that switching to SRAM's newer, thicker HS2 rotors would likely help with.

The main fly in the ointment when it comes to the Capra's component spec ended up being the NX drivetrain, specifically the shifter. The internal ratchet mechanism stripped out, rendering it useless and unable to shift after only a few rides. It's something that would be covered under warranty, and maybe it was just a fluke, but overall the longevity of the NX and SX drivetrains hasn't been impressive.

Who's It For?

This would be a great bike for someone that wants something with plenty of travel for rougher trails, but also doesn't want to feel like they're lugging around a downhill bike. It'll handle trips to the bike park or the occasional enduro race just as easily as a casual after-work pedal, and overall the price-to-performance ratio makes it a very attractive option.




Pros

+ Well rounded, especially considering amount of travel
+ Great value, and an even better one now that it's on sale
+ Frame is worthy of upgrading with nicer components as time goes on


Cons

- Sizing could be tricky for some riders due to seat tube length
- Issues with NX drivetrain



Author Info:
mikekazimer avatar

Member since Feb 1, 2009
1,753 articles

127 Comments
  • 58 3
 I'm so glad we've finally moved on from the anti-climb-switch movement.

It's a tool, and sometimes it can be useful. Why were the editors so strongly against bikes that "needed" a climb switch (but would invariably have good descending feel)
  • 42 1
 I've never understood it either. I understand that on a XC bike (or similar) where you can reasonably expect to be hammering on the pedals non-stop you wouldn't want to take a pause to flip a switch, but on my enduro bikes I have never once cared about having to reach down while casually pedaling up a hill.
  • 60 1
 There was only one and it was Mike. He also likes Tim Hortons and their coffee is garbage water brewed through old socks and dirt. We can't all be perfect.
  • 12 1
 I think as a review its good to provide insight on climbing without the switch. It paints a picture of how the frame is designed.

In the real world, does it actually matter? not so much. will gladly reach for the switch even if its just a short climb. That said, I do tend to forget to switch back to party mode from time to time. also not a big deal. I just stop or slow down and flip the switch.
  • 25 3
 As something that I never remember to turn off, I'm quite happy without a climb switch.
  • 9 4
 @jojotherider1977: BUT BRO. THAT RUINS YOUR STRAVA SEGMENTS!
  • 4 1
 @lostlunchbox: I think pb fired him or something
  • 3 14
flag blowmyfuse (Jul 12, 2023 at 10:59) (Below Threshold)
 By the time you make that bike capable of hauling mail, you'll be at a $5k price tag.

Tires.
Shock.
Fork.
Shifter.
Derailleur.
Rotors
  • 11 0
 @blowmyfuse: remember that this is a review for a value bike. Its assumed you're not going to be buying this bike and then going out and buying all of that stuff. If that's the case, you're probably not looking at value bikes.
  • 2 0
 @stravaismyracecourse: If you're not first, you're last!
  • 12 1
 Completely agree. When it comes to the type of regions where longer travel (150-170mm) bikes are warranted, many rides are going to be long climbs followed by long descents. In these cases, I would rather have the engineers target their ideal descending design with the confidence that they can compensate with a climb switch.

I have an enduro bike that many reviewers say "don't need" a climb switch. I still toggle mine on for most climbs and its no trouble to do so.
  • 3 0
 @blowmyfuse: Like every other Value or even higher-end bike, eventually....those are consumables at this price point.
  • 4 13
flag blowmyfuse (Jul 12, 2023 at 12:24) (Below Threshold)
 @jojotherider1977: @jojotherider1977: Not necessarily.

Guess I should explain. So...the primary goal of the $2600 mixed wheel/enduro rig is to get guys out on the trails knowing they can hit the bike park. AND that they can mod the bike as they progress.
It's got a full top/bottom bash guide, so obviously park is the #1 use.

Well, for park, you're dumping those tires in a week first time you glass over rocks. The NX shifter/derailleur are crapping the bed immediately if my experience (and posters all over) is an indication.

The rotors are gonna cook in the park, so substandard for that.

Last, the fork & rear shock are not "tuneable" internally or "upgradeable" that I know of. Meaning you can't keep them & buy better internals like Avalanche, PUSH, etc. I could be wrong about that part. But the fork & shock...you'd have to sell them right off the bike to make the very expensive upgrade of better damping.

You're not selling Rebound only suspension on the secondary market and buying even a decent fully tuneable set of boingers for (wild guess) less than 4 times what you sell the used base model.

To me, when I look at this bike I see "Monster truck travel. Race geometry. Park weight." so parts & bike makers need to do a tree branch style chart of "upgrades" for a model like this.

"Internal upgrade options include...."
"Hub internal upgrades include..."
"Braking performance tune enhancements include..."

Before you buy it. See links on screen of the tuning options you'll have to upgrade without selling off the parts/components & associated prices.

I know everything is disposable now, but a simplification of the upgrade process using the existing bits makes more sense to me than "upgrades include..buy all new stuff to replace it"
  • 21 0
 @blowmyfuse: just ride your bike dude
  • 1 0
 @lostlunchbox: Never been to Tim Hortons but that coffee sounds familiar.
  • 10 1
 @blowmyfuse: or, ignoring your personal opinion and given the realities of demographics, this bike will most likely be found milling around the local trail network and working on clearing those tables on the blue trail. And it’ll probably be great for that, albeit too big for the terrain.
  • 6 0
 @blowmyfuse: Whats wrong with that rotor?

Also again mate you don't need avalanche quality suspension to start riding park. The tires can handle park easily. Rougher trails? Maybe not for 80kg+ riders but I use exo tires when I want a faster rolling tire and they work fine.

Also the aftermarket doesn't care about how many dials you have but the fancy sticker. Kids know shit. I remember how little I got for my avy carted boxxer. Next to nothing and it was on sale for a looooong time.
  • 10 0
 @blowmyfuse: You're making an awful lot of assumptions for someone who doesn't own the bike. I do however own the bike and have been beating the S out of it in the bike park every weekend since opening day and can confirm that zero of these issues exist. Still running the stock tires, albeit tubeless. The NX still works just fine. Still running the stock SRAM centerline rotors that come on so many far more expensive bikes. The suspension just plain works (let's be real, it's highly unlikely your ability to "tune" your suspension is the main thing keeping you from being faster/better).

Am I defending the bike because it's the bike I own? Yes. But also objectively, none of these are "immediate" issues. I (like many others who will probably buy this bike) wanted a bike I can bash and thrash out of the box, without worrying. And it has provided exactly that.

For reference my local hills are highland, thunder, and killington. .
  • 2 0
 @blowmyfuse:
Of course the fork and shock are internally tuneable.
You could also drop a charger RC2 damper into that fork pretty easily.
  • 29 0
 It’s actually on sale for $1,999 right now.
  • 19 1
 At that price, you might as well get it as a bike park/shuttle sled.
  • 3 0
 My neighbor’s arrived on Monday! Should be a good first bike for him.
  • 3 0
 @withdignityifnotalacrity: Yep. I'm interested in budget big bikes not as a new rider, but because I'd like a bike for park/dh trails in my system, but they're a minority of my riding and my current bike can stand in (if not optimally) so u can't justify an expensive bike for the use.
  • 2 0
 Yes bonkers good deals on Capras at the moment. Great do it all big bike.
  • 19 2
 Im really getting concerned about Levy. Need visual evidence he is still alive.
  • 4 0
 He replied in detail in the comments section of a podcast article recently. Nothing to worry about. Or was it Levy AI?
  • 3 0
 www.pinkbike.com/u/brianpark/blog/the-pinkbike-podcast-a-deep-dive-on-pivots-prototype-dh-bike-with-bernard-kerr.html

check his comment from last month saying he's accrued a lot of time off which he's taking
  • 13 1
 Don’t forget that you can improve the shifting and reliability of the NX derailleur with the X01/XX1 b-bolt kit. It’s not necessary right off the bat, but if you feel shifting get sloppy or weird then it’s probably time.
  • 141 6
 YT could fix the issues with NX by using Deore
  • 9 2
 That bolt kit appears to be around half the price of a better derailleur. The clutch on NX also sucks, so I'd just get a Deore 12spd derailleur (shifts great with NX kit) and call it a day.
  • 15 1
 And to think NX isn't the worst that SRAM has to offer. SX should not exist.
  • 1 1
 Indeed. XO1 bolt kit and then add a GX shifter.
  • 1 0
 Could some enlightened one write the part code please? Had a quick look and it's not clear to me what you recommend changing (I'm on GX 12 and suspecting this would help)
  • 3 0
 friendly reminder that the only parts not interchangeable between sram and shimano 12s is the chain (even the shifters pair perfectly)
  • 2 0
 My shifting was massively improved by using an SLX shifter and derailleur on the NX cassette.
  • 2 0
 @PhillipJ: same deal. NX mech and shifter are complete garbage. Everything else is perfectly serviceable.
  • 1 0
 @mammal: the cassette is garbage too
  • 2 0
 @dwbaillar: I haven't found that at all. I was on the 4th season with my NX cassette that came on my Ripmo, and it could go on for more, if I didn't swap it for an 11spd group this year. And I ride that bike a lot.
  • 1 0
 @mammal: does yours not have plastic spacers between each cog? Basically my experience was the spacers compacted to the point where I had tightened the lock ring on a couple of occasions until it was pushing against the freehub body. It continued to worsen and I had to replace the cassette before it damaged the freehub shell. The way they designed the cogs to sit on the freehub only increases the likelihood of damage.
  • 1 0
 @dwbaillar: It did have those spacers between most of the cogs, but I had no issues with them compacting. My only issues with the loose-cog design was that they would get very noisy/creaky if I didn't have the interfaces between cogs, spacers, and freehub body well greased (dirt build-up combined with slight movement). I think I probably cleaned/greased them twice in the 2-3 years after I realized what the super annoying pedaling noise was, and they were always perfect after that. Perhaps you were overtightening your cassette to avoid similar noises (just a guess)?
  • 1 0
 @mammal: with mine you could feel the wiggles from side to side. Grease may have helped with the noise though.

My problem with it is that they've made perfectly adequate low/mid range cassettes for years, but they made those couple of changes on this one seemingly to differentiate it as shittier.
  • 1 0
 @dwbaillar: They made it cheaper to manufacture (just a bunch of stamped steel plates), which is the M.O. for the NX group. They didn't make it worse for the sake of being worse.
  • 1 0
 @mammal: referring to the weird interface that bites into your freehub shell more.. But it probably allows them looser tolerances, to your point
  • 1 0
 at that price you're better off slapping a whole deore groupset on the tbh
  • 14 0
 Reminds me on 2015ish when the YTs were the best deal out there.
  • 2 0
 How are YTs carbon frames these days? Are they as good/reliable as pivot/santa cruz/etc? And how is their warranty team?
  • 2 0
 Yep I am still riding my 2015 CF Comp1 8 years later! New fork, shock, wheels, cockpit, drivetrain, etc......

What seemed like a giant (my first 27.5er) Super Enduro rig then is now my tiny Park and DS race ripper.
  • 2 1
 @Jvhowube: some headset creakery, but aside from that rock solid and long lasting bearings (capra mk3, 2400 km)
  • 15 4
 A derailleur, shifter and some tokens in the fork away from the perfect big bike.

Why? A $12k build with this much travel….will weigh about the same.
  • 2 0
 Kaz made it sound like a trail bike not a shuttle brute.......
  • 1 1
 I'd change the brakes. Basic Codes are crap
  • 1 0
 @spaced: that’s just levers. And worth it for sure!!
  • 3 0
 @madmon: meh. Any bike that big with a 65ish HTA will do fine as a mostly gravity whip.

Sure, a MegaPlower will be better, but not 3x the price better.
  • 2 0
 @madmon: it sounded like that particular opinion was due to the shorter reach on the Capra. If he could comfortably size up to XL, considering the seat tube length they mentioned, he probably would considered it a more capable smasher. The chain stay length also scales up with XL, retaing the F/R balance.
  • 1 0
 @mammal: I also wonder if a OneUp long dropper would play…..
  • 1 0
 @wyorider: I have a new XL Capra core 4 and I rock a 210 One up on it. 6’1 and need roughly 785 saddle height.
  • 1 0
 @mammal: Mike should have ridden the XL then cause reach it´s around his prefered 48 and chainstays 44.. I know cause it´s mine too.. so why he donwsized? just because of a label?
  • 2 0
 @PauRexs: sounds weird. Even the seat tube size is not a good excuse as it looks like it can be sawed a bit smaller easily. Alu is soft, thing is using regular collars. It is an easy job. The previous owner of my XL Banshee Prime did that and I would have done the same.
  • 12 3
 Why are they specing EXO tires on an enduro race bike?
  • 4 0
 To add to that, is dealer pricing of DD tires more expensive then EXO?
  • 28 0
 Cause they’re lighter and cheaper.
  • 8 2
 @wobblegoblin: Just Frustrating. Sidewalls made of A4 paper are no bueno on Al 170 bike.
  • 10 0
 "race bike" might be a little over optimistic considering the spec even if it does have 170mm of travel haha. I actually run exo on my 170mm nomad because my local trails are pretty smooth and have a lot of pedalling but an hour away I've got the rocky mountains with some pretty rugged terrain. I get lazy sometimes and won't swap wheels out for my more rugged tire setup and the exo have held up surprising well but I am a pretty light rider.
  • 5 0
 Because that what 95% of bike brands do
  • 10 0
 It's a $2,700 bike that's currently $2k on sale. Also, it's not a race bike.
  • 12 3
 I do understand your objection toward this seeming incongruity. That said, IMO you have to be a pretty aggressive rider to appreciate the difference between an EXO casing and the EXO+ or DD. There is a difference for sure, but I'm not sure the bulk of riders are pushing their bikes hard enough to know the difference. Also as others have pointed out, they're cheaper.
  • 10 0
 Do people not have a dozen spare bicycle tires laying next to their bed or something
  • 2 1
 @nickfranko: Genuinely curious why the Capra isn't considered a race bike? Other people above agree with you, and I'm confused.
  • 1 0
 @nickfranko: okay fine but "you can race it" therefore it becomes a race bike if entered into a race. by and large i would say very few bikes are objectively race bikes.
  • 1 0
 @jaytdubs: Hard disagree. I cheaped out and bought a set of EXO tires last season and never again. Both suffered multiple punctures and had to be plugged numerous times. The front got a crazy bubble in the tread that eventually just exploded and was beyond repair. The rear is still hanging on but don't expect it to last much longer. I ride mainly normal xc/all-mountain/enduro style trails. I've heard similar accounts with EXO casings from your average weekend warrior riders.
  • 4 0
 @jaytdubs: I ride a lot of varying terrain — rough, rocky stuff at home, loose gravel, Trestle bike park, Moab, and on and on. I ride a lot. I ride fast. I hit drops. I like to have something a little heavier like Double Down or equivalent compound in the back because I beat the shit out of my back wheel. But up front, EXO does the job just fine. I don’t even use tire inserts. I’ve had no problems. I do make sure my tires are properly inflated before each ride. That’s it. People are overbuilding these bikes these bikes, and everyone wonders why they weigh so much these days…
  • 6 0
 most people that will ride this bike will do so on blue and maybe red trails at man made trail centres. most people don't ride trails that would necessitate thicker wall tyres. Most people don't ride fast either.
  • 1 0
 @fewnofrwgijn: with or without holes and tears that might theoretically be repairable at some point?
  • 1 0
 probably because it is a porky beast
  • 2 0
 @nismo325: same for me at 80kg. Weirdly unless it's DH speeds on rocks they hold up decently. Just dont run too low pressure
  • 1 0
 Cost.
  • 3 0
 @jaytdubs: I'm not sure that holds. if you are a better rider you might be able to pick smoother lines or ride smoother and not tear the sidewalls as easily as a novice. I've torn too many exo and (old) exo+ rears to only run DD or DH these days and I don't consider myself an aggressive - or particularly fast - rider
  • 1 0
 @TheR: sounds like we live in similar area and ride similar. I have had the same results. No need for anything above EXO and no inserts. Weigh 75kg/170.

If people are shredding EXO maybe weight is the factor. Or line choice?
  • 1 0
 @ShortJeffsyOwner: fair points, I hadn't thought about that. A lot of it probably comes down to where you live and how sharp the rocks are. In the northeast US we have plenty of rocks, but they're not particularly sharp. In my experience most tire damage when from riding spicy lines in this region occur from impacts and improper tire pressure. That's an entirely different ball of wax than sidewall tears that might occur from picking "novice lines" down sharper rocky terrain.
  • 1 0
 @yourrealdad: We even weigh about the same. Maybe that has something to do with it, but I was also ok with EXO when I was up to 30 pounds heavier — just had to add more air. It’s a factor of everything — weight, the terrain you ride (although I can’t imagine terrain gets much gnarlier than Moab), smoothness, aggression, etc. I can’t say the solution for me is right for everyone, and some people probably do need it. But I wonder how many people use all this heavier stuff up front because they need it, or because it fits their hardcore image.
  • 2 0
 @TheR: I weigh190ish lbs and run a dd in the rear and an EXO in the front…no issues for riding rocky granite trails…if I’m riding lifts a lot I’ll put DH tires with cushcore F&R. For me sidewall stiffness only matters on trails with big berms, which don’t exist where I live, except for lift access at mammoth.
  • 1 0
 @wobblegoblin: even for berms if you dont go too low it's still doable.
  • 9 0
 You had me at 170.
  • 2 0
 Here is some thing I don’t understand that I’ve seen on multiple Bike reviews from people who live and breathe bikes: reviewer is reviewing a YT large, as if it’s a “rest of the bike industry” large. It is very common knowledge (it’s right on their size chart) that a size large with YT is a size medium on all other bike brands that I can think of. It doesn’t make sense to comment on its short reach when it’s one size down then all the other bikes in the test. all of you guys should’ve been on an extra large. Is this, perhaps YT’s fault for sending you a large? Loam Wolf did this to in their review of the YT decoy.
  • 3 0
 It’s a modern large in DH bikes, the crazy long bikes are the exception. I kinda prefer the large Capra geo to my other 490mm reach, 1250 wheelbase “large” bike
  • 2 0
 Except the long seat tube could make sizing up a problem ,

"While the 445mm length on the size L is fairly typical, bumping up to a size XL results in a 470mm length, which could make running a longer dropper post a difficult, if not impossible task depending on a rider's height."
  • 3 1
 Who said "the rest of the bike industry's medium is YT's large?" TR's large sentinel is only a few mm longer, same with nukeproof/vitus/stumpyevo etc

at 6ft i ride a large with 470 reach and its awesome, Ridden bigger and its a barge, more stretched out and takes considerably more body effort to get it to move.

Most of the bike industry is infact moving its sizing down a bit now ie size large reaches are actually dropping back a bit as we've seen on several new bikes.

Long reach became a thing because of short wheelbase/short cs with aggressive head angles.
Now with longer rear centres/centers and alot of brands starting to steepen their HTA again we are saying reach being relaxed to a good spot.

On long travel rigs, long reach is more of a hinderance than a help, it just pushes your weight more forward for the steep stuff. DH bikes are in general shorter for this reason.
  • 7 0
 We don't all want Long bikes
  • 2 0
 I am 5'11'' and sized up to an XL for my Capra (MK2), tossed in an angleset too and I quite like how it rides. No issues fitting a 210mm one up dropper post either.
  • 1 0
 @czyk123: I just pulled the trigger today, same height and chose the same frame size. Cheers for the feedback.
  • 2 0
 Personally regardless of value or not, alloys are making a comeback.. The only place I see carbon's value is specifically for XC/XC oriented trail bikes, though the weight savings these days are negligable.

Geo for the most part is practically the same for most Trail->Enduro so to me the most important focus is building a cohesive suspension, with a driveline and braking that is reliable.

Personally, I think the ABP/Maestro/Split pivot is the best all-arounder for suspension design, but DW does an even better job for speed. Then when it comes to the horst/4-bar, I think that there are no longer excuses with the ability for a manufacturer to dial in the tune with Fox/Rockshox

When it comes to components... Shimano has it in the bag. You get the same performance out of any of their 4 pot brakes and shifters from Deore>...

IMO - the current champ is the Divinci Chainshaw, this one should be on the list.
  • 4 0
 The core 3 has the best value of the Capra lineup IMO, but this is great for someone on a tight budget too.
  • 1 0
 I have this bike in the next model up (NX drivetrain with fox performance elite suspension.) It's been pretty decent so far, but I do notice quite a few pedal strikes in the low mode. This is my first mullet setup, so wondering if others have the same issue with mixed wheels?
  • 2 0
 I have a Status 160. Far more pedal strikes than I'm used coming off a 26". Of the handful of 29" bikes I've ridden I never had the same problem but butt buzz and tight S-turns were an issue. Granted much of that is my lack of skill but it was much improved with a mullet setup.
I'm looking for shorter cranks in hopes to offset.
  • 4 1
 Longer bikes are not better on steeper trails. They are better on faster ones but not steeper ones where they limit maneuvrability and the ability to move the cog back
  • 1 0
 @mikekazimer Are the weights for field test bikes taken from the manufacturer's literature or actually weighed? Also, are you going to continue to let Henry get away with calling you "Dazimer"?

According to YT
"WEIGHT 16,6 KG - 36,6 LBS

Average weight for smallest size available, without tubes, pedals, and bottle"
  • 6 0
 All the weights are actual weights according to my scale. Henry speaks a different language, so I don't mind what he calls me.
  • 1 0
 @mikekazimer: Thanks for the clarification on weights.

Henry brought the donuts today, didnt he?

Awesome field test review. Looking forward to the rest.
  • 1 0
 my size L, tubeless, with oneup pedals, thick azz DMR deathgrips, bottle, and full ridewrap came in at 37 on the nose. granted it was with a digital bathroom scale but still.
  • 1 0
 @mikekazimer: " Cons : Sizing could be tricky for some riders due to seat tube length"

I am 6 feet / 1.83 meters tall and I ride an XL-sized Capra with a OneUp dropper seatpost with 200mm of travel. So frame size is clearly not an issue. You should choose the size based on your riding style and aspirations.
  • 2 0
 Do you ride XL mk3?
Because I have been just delivered XL (mullet mx versiob) and would probably return it and reorder L size.

I am 184 cm 84,5 cm inseam and fully extended dropper (original postman) is probably almost too high for me (even its lowest as ot can be on seattube) and in lowest position it feels in the way for leaning the bike compared to my Trance X 29 200mm One Up dropper.

Also the reach seems to big and generous, even after some tests with 35mm stem.

No way I feel I can throw this thing around on jumps :/
  • 4 0
 And no headset cable routing. Wait, where's everybody going...
  • 3 0
 So there is a field test running? And where is the introduction video? Or did I have missed it?
  • 1 0
 @mikekazimer: oh, ok thanks, I missed it!
  • 2 0
 36 pounds really isn't too bad considering the heavy, crappy drivetrain and rims
  • 4 2
 Good thing SRAM spent all the research/development $ on AXS for the 1%.... epic fail
  • 2 1
 Yep. Making better high end product…..that won’t scale to lower price points.

Yay.

And yay to the bike industry for continuing to spec low end SRAM stuff they know sucks.
  • 2 0
 Kip you must be making more money doing this than selling Tupperware.
  • 1 0
 You guys need to include a newbie rider on the test panel - for entry level bikes.
  • 1 0
 Sorry for OT, but what trail is that ?
  • 8 0
 Most of the shots are from Credit Line (www.trailforks.com/trails/credit-line).
  • 1 0
 @mikekazimer: Thanks, Mike ! Smile
  • 2 2
 how about a picture of a geo chart instead of 6 repetitive pictures of kaz riding some blue trail?
  • 1 0
 Kario and Dazimer sounds better somehow
  • 1 2
 So, what happened to Levy?
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