Bikes are pretty dialed these days but incorrect set up can lead to issues on trail. Christina Chappetta runs us through some tips and tricks to remember when setting up a new bike.
@wildthingdh1: Sad but true. I have set up my whole families bikes and extended family, but two years later my bike still has the same settings as the previous owner. Seems to work, but by now suspension needs full service anyway ,sigh, bike dad issues.
Looks silly. Personally I don’t give a crap about resale. Aesthetics are worth more to me. I cut all my steerer tubes as low as I comfortably can. @viatch:
@ricochetrabbit: being an ex racer she probably wants to be able to adjust it to the terrain she rides. High stack for steep terrain and lower for more mellow stuff! In the end its all down to personal preference and therefore i wouldnt judge people (who who do this for a living) on how their set up should be.
@ricochetrabbit: @ricochetrabbit: 10mm extra steerer when setting up a bike is not very much. It gives me the opportunity to adjust things as I get used to the bike AND being only 5'4"... when the bike moves on a slightly taller rider can still move the stem height if needed
@ricochetrabbit: I feel like human powered cycling is a sport that typically draws in people that lean to the left. All my republican friends are into motor sports - dirt bikes, UTVs, Baja trucks, Jeeps.
I have noticed that also. I have always enjoyed two wheels, but never got into dirt bikes. Mountain bikes, motorcycles and bud for me. Been a republican since high school. @diegosk:
@christinachappetta: I always tell people: you cannot see the aesthetics of your bike if you're riding it haha! Great video, just the right amount of information and well delivered+
@ricochetrabbit: apparently it's the liberals who push that extra exposed steer tube on us, boost spacing, super boost spacing and and all those other standards that people don't like,
@ricochetrabbit: I'm actually politically independent but am bothered that Trump has forced Republicans to become dumber than your average 4th grade student. Saying climate change is a conspiracy from China and that he thinks the world is actually going to become colder? Complete and utter idiot.
You are courageous woman Christina. You know the PB peanut gallery is going to have a lot of supportive and helpful comments to add to this How To segment.
-"It's not a new bike, honey! Get serious. It's the same old murdered black bike that I'm riding for the past 15 years. Ok, you see that writing on the tyre? What does it say?" - "DHF?" -"Right! DHF. You see? It's the same old bike!"
FIRST thing to do before riding a NEW bike, drop the lowers, grease the seals and put the right amount of oil. Fox (So Marzo), Rockshox, you know what I'm talking about..
This is fantastic. I ride with some older folks that have never been set up on their bikes by the shop they went to to get their bikes. It’s awful. One fellow was complaining that he couldn’t reach his shifter properly. I rectified that quickly. Bike shops have a duty to help a customer set up the fit of a bike including controls. I will be sending this video to my older friends.
Christina is the bomb and an awesome addition to the PinkBike team!! One question I have that could make a fun video for all of the editors is why they chose the bike they did. If Trek offered a good deal on your Slash, and no one else did lol well then that may not be such an interesting discussion, but bike choice IMO is super interesting especially when you're as knowledgable on the bike industry as the editors here.
Bike fit, can we get some an article on bike fit. With all this seat angle talk and the kick back that the slash got on its 76 seat angle, it would be great to talk to steep seat angles and the impact on knees etc of riding something like that.
Some of us out spend a lot of time perfecting that fore aft position after injuries, overuse etc etc and steep seat angles are no friend to your body.
@nickmalysh: Completely agree. But from what Ive been told by physios and bike fit folks, it would seem a 80 degree STA for instance would place your knees too far forward of your pedals, which while can be powerful, will eventually cause injury.
@noplacelikeloam: Perhaps on flat ground, but few fits account for riding up steep slopes, especially with rear suspension that sags due to weight shift! In that context, a seat-tube that measures 80° on flat ground, without sag, may be less likely to cause injury than a seat-tube angle that seems more reasonable on flat ground.
@nickmalysh: until you literally cant walk from overuse, I agree. But then you start looking for answers. I dont know either but love to get some convo on it as there is literally nothing on this.
@noplacelikeloam: I can't comment on your specific situation or whether 80° is the right number, but that's the general idea behind why steeper seat-tube angles work for mountain bikes. Two main factors:
1. We're seated when climbing, we alternately sit and stand on flat terrain, and we stand on descents. The time- and exertion-weighted average ground slope when seated is significantly uphill.
2. The more rear suspension travel, the more the bike pitches rearward on climbs and, therefore, the steeper the seat-tube angle has to be to compensate.
Knee problems are just as likely to be caused by inadequate arch support, too-squishy midsoles, or too-short shoes. If one's shoes don't fit, one's bike never will. I don't know about @R-M-R, but when I'm climbing something tricky, I'm just as likely to be out of a dropped saddle with shock in climb mode. STAs have steepened because reaches have increased because wheelbases have increased, but ETTs have been conserved. Slash is on the long side at 61cm for a Medium, so more difficult to fit if you're looking for a short rider compartment. Too slack and too steep are equal enemies.
@R-M-R: the topic was fit, and your remarks were restricted to dynamic fit. I don't think this is the only reason STAs got steeper. Otherwise e.g. Chromags, which don't pitch rearward much going up, wouldn't have received steeper STAs. Shall we split the difference?
@ceecee: I'm not convinced the seat-tube angles on hardtails should be as steep as they are. Long-travel suspension frames, yes, but hardtails always seem to cater to fringe tastes and I think some of them have gone too far.
@R-M-R: That all makes sense and makes me wonder how differences in sag makes all of this pretty academic anyhow. So if one STA is 0.5 degree stepper but runs 35% sag vs another running 25% sag, I'm presuming it sort of is the same by the time you start pedalling. Too much overthinking on this one. :-)
@noplacelikeloam: The sag you're talking about is measured on flat ground. Yes, it makes a difference, but it's often the case that a rider who prefers more rear sag also prefers more front sag, so it may not greatly change the chassis attitude.
What I'm getting at is the dynamic sag on a climb. Rear sag be around 50% on a steep climb, while the front end is essentially fully extended. This slightly slackens the seat-tube angle of a hardtail due to front extension, moderately slackens a short-travel frame due to front extension and rear compression, etc. A long-travel chassis slackens considerably, in addition to the slope of the ground. Thus, a long-travel frame needs to have an extremely steep seat-tube angle, measured unsagged on flat ground, to compensate for the considerable suspension sag (and extension) when climbing, plus the slope of the ground.
I'm a bike nerd and will spend probably more time than necessary tweaking anything and everything that can be adjusted on a bike... But the majority of riders don't do that. This is a great introductory video, and you can absolutely expand this topic into more depth for setting up modern bikes for modern riding. Most of the fitting/setup videos online are at least 4-5 years old and don't necessarily apply to 2020 bikes and riding styles. @christinachappetta
@christinachappetta one specific example: almost every fitting video uses KOPS (knee over pedal spindle) which goes out the window with modern MTB geometry. Steep seat tubes and longer reach are great but the bike needs to be set up differently than it was 5-10 years ago.
@pnwpedal: True, though KOPS has always been a coincidental relationship with no basis in physiology. If there were any validity to it, a rider would be lucky to survive turning the cranks on a recumbent!
That's an impressive amount of frame storage. Real question is -- can you get all those clif bars out that are crammed down by the bottom bracket? Honest question. @christinachappetta
That's what i was just about to ask too. Thought i'd check the comments first before double posting though. I'm so damned British, i amaze myself sometimes...Come on then Christina, let's see those Clif bars coming back out!
@w0dge: Forget it, they won't come out the entrance unless you go for a really bumpy ride or have got some exciting tricks up your sleeve. Otherwise, Trek ate them, turned them into Clifibo-poo and will drop them out the other side 24hrs later.
I'm excited to see what companies make for this frame in the "aftermarket" shock department. Also curious to see numbers on how the mounting placement helps with anti-squat and travel.
No straight shot down tube with Knock block , it must be completely un rideable Wait that was Last year, ok so you don't need straight tube Knock block to ride a bike.
Please inform me on the next great improvement so I can wait 3 years to find out it was bullshit.
I am all for improvements but don't like smoke up my ass.
wow that s a high front end if her saddle is the same height as the stem when dropper fully extended...on my bike saddle is a bit below the stem height when dropper is fully dropped down...
Pick the dropper post size that’s right for me? I’ve been told radness doesn’t even begin until 250mm of drop. Bars a matter of preference? No way. Broomstick length or don’t even bother.
Back on topic. She left a ton of exposed steerer tube.
In the end its all down to personal preference and therefore i wouldnt judge people (who who do this for a living) on how their set up should be.
Hill-billy america, right?, my RN "buddy"..the place of dreams. ❤
Ok, you see that writing on the tyre? What does it say?"
- "DHF?"
-"Right! DHF. You see? It's the same old bike!"
Fox (So Marzo), Rockshox, you know what I'm talking about..
For me ( long les short body) the stepaer seat tube the better
1. We're seated when climbing, we alternately sit and stand on flat terrain, and we stand on descents. The time- and exertion-weighted average ground slope when seated is significantly uphill.
2. The more rear suspension travel, the more the bike pitches rearward on climbs and, therefore, the steeper the seat-tube angle has to be to compensate.
What I'm getting at is the dynamic sag on a climb. Rear sag be around 50% on a steep climb, while the front end is essentially fully extended. This slightly slackens the seat-tube angle of a hardtail due to front extension, moderately slackens a short-travel frame due to front extension and rear compression, etc. A long-travel chassis slackens considerably, in addition to the slope of the ground. Thus, a long-travel frame needs to have an extremely steep seat-tube angle, measured unsagged on flat ground, to compensate for the considerable suspension sag (and extension) when climbing, plus the slope of the ground.