You've decided to take the plunge and dive into the world of mountain biking. How complicated could it be? A mountain bike's a mountain bike, right? Unfortunately, it's not that simple any more. When the sport first started rolling in the 1970s there was pretty much only one type of bike, but now, after nearly a half-century of existence, there are bikes to suit almost every riding style imaginable.
It can be intimidating trying to sort through all of the choices, and the ever-expanding list of categories and sub-categories can make it even more difficult. Just like in the ski or snowboard world, there are different bikes for different conditions, and it's a matter of picking the right tool for the job.
Let's start with the easiest two categories to differentiate: hardtails vs full suspension bikes.
Hardtail: A hardtail is just like it sounds – a bike with no rear suspension. The vast majority of new hardtails have a suspension fork, although there are still a few options out there without suspension of any kind, for those riders looking for the simplest (and roughest) ride.
Hardtails can be a great way to save some money, since the lack of a shock and a less complicated frame design helps keep the cost down. Hardtails can be designed for any of the riding categories that I'll go over shortly, although they are best suited to slightly mellower terrain. It is possible to get down very rough, technical trails on a hardtail, and have a lot of fun doing it, but there's no getting around the fact that a full-suspension bike makes navigating those harder trails much easier.
Full-suspension: Once again, it's all in the name. A full-suspension bike has a suspension fork and a shock to help take the edge off rougher trails, which means the frame (and rider) is fully suspended above the wheels. The amount of travel (how much the suspension moves) will vary depending on the bike's intended purpose, ranging from 80-100mm of rear travel for more cross-country oriented bikes all the way up to over 200mm of travel for pure downhill machines.
Category Definitions Moving on from the basic frame configuration of a mountain bike brings us to the more convoluted part of the equation – deciding what type of riding the bike is for.
We'll start with the basic categories, and then touch on some of the other terms you might hear floating around a bike shop or see mentioned online. You'll also see that each category has a 'climbing / descending split'. This is intended to illustrate where a bike's performance is focused. For example, climbing takes a higher priority on a cross-country bike, so the split is 70 / 30, compared to a DH bike, where it's a 0 / 100% split - climbing performance isn't even part of the downhill bike equation.
XC / Cross-Country These are the speed machines, the lightest and quickest handling mountain bikes around. They're designed for covering lots of ground as efficiently as possible, and typically have around 100mm of rear travel paired with a 100 – 120mm fork.
Ideal terrain: XC bikes are a great option for riders in areas with rolling terrain that isn't super rough – this much travel helps take the edge off chattery sections of trail, but when things get really chunky an XC bike won't be the best option.
Rider description: You don't need to be a racer, or even harbor any dreams of racing, to enjoy a cross-country bike – for riders that want their bikes to feel fast, light, and efficient, this is the category to consider. It's also the category where a hardtail makes the most sense, since the lack of a shock saves weight, and the most efficient suspension is none at all.
This is good category to consider for riders who prefer the challenge of conquering a long, strenuous climb over seeking out the gnarliest descent, those who prefer to zip along with both wheels on the ground versus hitting ever jump around.
Examples:
Specialized Epic,
Canyon Lux Climbing / descending split: 70 / 30
Sub-category: Downcountry is a term whose origins aren't totally clear, although some of the credit / blame rests on Pinkbike tech editor Mike Levy's shoulders. It was originally more of a tongue-in-cheek description for an imaginary category, but the term stuck, and more than one bike manufacturer has used it in their marketing campaigns. The idea is to take a lightweight cross-country-ish bike and make it more downhill oriented via things like wider handlebars, a dropper post, and longer, slacker geometry.
The travel and overall light weight remains, but the bikes in this category aren't as uphill-focused as their more race-oriented siblings. Bikes like the
Transition Spur, Specialized Epic EVO, and
Allied BC40 are all examples of this concept. More advanced riders can push these bikes hard in terrain they might not be expected to excel in, and beginners will appreciate the extra confidence that the more relaxed geometry provides on steeper trails.
Trail Bike This is arguably the largest category of mountain bike, and for good reason. Trail bikes are intended to handle a huge variety of terrain – these are the generalists, the all-rounders that can take on just about anything. Rear travel amounts range from 125mm up to 150mm, and typically the longer travel options tend to be a bit more downhill focused.
Ideal terrain: Almost anywhere. We recently finished conducting a round of trail bike testing in Whistler, BC, and the biggest takeaway was just how capable modern trail bikes have become. The idea of using the same bike for long backcountry rides and lift-served laps in a bike park used to be a fantasy, but now there are numerous options that can do just that.
Rider Description: For someone who wants one bike that can handle just about anything this is the place to look. Modern geometry has made the bikes in this category more confidence inspiring on the descents than ever, and they're still very manageable while climbing or riding on more rolling terrain. Tires can play a big role in how a bike feels – lighter tires on a trail bike can make it better suited for big, pedaly rides, while beefier, more aggressive tires can help provide more traction and better handling in steeper terrain.
Examples: Trek Fuel EX,
Norco Fluid Climbing / descending split: 40 / 60 to 60 / 40 depending on the model.
Enduro Bike Technically, enduro is a mountain bike race format, where multiple timed downhill sections connected by untimed transfer stages. The term has evolved to describe longer travel bikes with a clear focus on downhill performance that can still be pedaled to the top of a climb. Travel amounts range from 150 – 170mm, and in some cases the bike's geometry isn't far off from what you'd find on a downhill bike.
Ideal terrain: About as rough and steep as it gets, just short of a full-blown downhill track. Enduro bikes are a great option for riding in lift served bike parks, since they can handle bigger drops and jumps, and then when the lifts stop spinning they can be pedaled on other trails without being too much of a hindrance. Descending is the main focus of this style of bike, which means they don't feel quiet as quick or efficient as their shorter travel siblings. Still, many modern enduro bikes have impressive pedaling performance, and if there's terrain to warrant the extra travel they can certainly be taken out on extra long missions.
Rider description: The ideal candidate for an enduro bike is someone that's interested in challenging themselves on steep, rough terrain. There's no minimum ability level to have fun on a bike with this much suspension, although many of the bikes in this category do feel better at the higher speeds the were designed around.
Examples: Orbea Rallon,
Yeti SB160Climbing / descending split: 30 / 70
Sub-category: Super-enduro, freeride There's a small niche that exists in between enduro bikes and downhill bikes, which is where you'll find long travel machines that are even more downhill focused, bikes where weight and efficiency aren't as much or a priority as durability and stability as speed. These are the models that benefit from the use of a chairlift of shuttle truck, but they're still able to be pedaled to the top when those options aren't available.
Examples: Canyon Torque,
Norco Shore Downhill BikeDo you want to go downhill, fast? This is the place to look. The downhill market has grown smaller as the capabilities of trail and enduro bikes have increased, but those bikes still can't beat a dedicated DH bike when it comes to outright speed. If you've never ridden a downhill bike before, renting one from a bike park can be a good way to see if the handling and overall characteristics are something you'd like to invest in. This is the mountain bike equivalent of a pair of extra-fat powder skis, and if you don't live somewhere with the right terrain it's likely going to be overkill.
Ideal terrain DH bikes are purpose built for descending, which means that they require a chairlift, shuttle truck, or a long stint of pushing to get them to the top of the hill. Once gravity takes over these long travel machines make a lot more sense, with geometry and suspension designed to take on the gnarliest terrain and the biggest jumps around. They're well suited to bike park usage, where the overbuilt frames and components typically do a better job of withstanding the abuse that weeks or months of lift-served laps can dole out.
Examples: Santa Cruz V10,
Trek SessionClimbing / descending split: 0 / 100
How much will it cost?Okay, say you've figured out the style and type of mountain bike you want. How much will that cost? Well, that depends. Along with the wide variety of bike models and designs comes a wide variety of prices, so there's no easy answer. In addition, bike prices have jumped dramatically over the last few years, so going the used route is the best method to save money. Prices also vary depending in if a company is solely direct to consumer or if they're soled in brick-and-mortar bike shops, although the price difference between those two sales models isn't as great as it once was.
In general, expect to spend around $3,500 for an entry-level full-suspension bike. At that price range there are multiple options that'll serve as great entries to the sport, with hydraulic disc brakes, wide range drivetrains, and basic suspension components.
Around the $6,000 pricepoint is where you find bikes that don't really need any upgrades, even for more advanced riders. Going even higher up the line, many companies have their highest end models priced in the neighborhood of $10,000 - $12,000. Bikes at the price point come with carbon fiber frames and wheels, and typically have electronic shifting or a very high end drivetrains.
There you have it – a quick primer on the various different types of mountain bikes that are currently on the market in 2023. Instead of getting bogged down in spreadsheets or internet forums, get out there and try a few options. Find a demo event, borrow a buddy's bike, whatever it takes to gain more familiarity with available and what will work best for you. After all, the best bike for someone in Des Moine, Iowa is going to be different than what's best for someone in Whistler, BC.
And finally, don't forget that at the end of the day they're all just bikes, and mountain biking is supposed to be fun.
Why do you care what others do with their own money?
Sweeet! I choose the Eeb niche...full fat 190/187 dual crown, 170/160 Enduro and Light Weight 150/150 and love em all. My OG 1986 fully rigid is happily retired.
Broped up and MTB down, so much fun...and that motor doesn't clear the gaps on it's own. Ride on!
1%ers - eBikes are Heresy
1%ers - 29er not a mountain bike
1%ers - Single speed is pure
1%ers - You dumbed my trail down. After watching them do the ride around
1%ers - I hate the IMBA flow trail as they fill the parking lot of the new flow trail system
1%ers - They will never close this trail as they get kicked out of public land
on and on, never happy.
1%ers - do the above really matter?
"
Downhill Bike
Do you want to go downhill, fast? This is the place to look.
"
New people, looking for their first mtb. Buying a DH bike in 2023... How do I engage the filter? I dare not to look...
Including downhill bikes in an article like this without mentioning you probably need some time on another bike to build skill before you hurl yourself down any kind of terrain that requires such a bike, is questionable.
There wasn't a "memo", the article in itself is fairly clear about who the target audience is
B
E
A
U
Tiful!
Nicely played sir.
Wich is also good indication that MOST of us will max out at Trail, maybe Enduro. SuperEnduro is just stupid... get a DH bike and that is it
With the exception of bike prices, what goes up must come down.
Mine sure does.
(The Spur is undoubtedly sick, but idk man the Element is perfect in my eyes lol.)
"the first cut is the deepest...."
Water bottle mount, threaded BB. The paint sucks, but for 1299 CDN...
As a Canadian who lives just 10 miles north of the border, and interacts with a lot of cashed up Americans at our ski resort, it absolutely astounds me how few of them are knowledgeable about CDN pricing and the currency exchange rate until they get here. The smart ones end up taking home more skis than they brought.
It may only be my experience but the Element I bought, because the Spur was completely unavailable, has been a really quick, fun bike, until the main pivot failed. The decision to replace it was fast but things take time this far from the rest of the world. It is simply not as well constructed as my previous SC and I’d guess the Tranny also. The geo says push me hard but is it really up to it?
Not perfect (PF BB, no ISCG mounts, brake choice is garbage stock) but damn close. I rebuilt mine frame up and it's a monster.
PB actually had an article about being "over biked" which made this exact point. There is absolutely no reason not to run less sag or stiffer damping if you want, it's not going to affect the geometry in any way that bike isn't designed to have.
www.pinkbike.com/news/the-case-for-being-over-biked-opinion.html
Your implication that a bike should always be set at the same sag betrays a tragic ignorance of bike setup. Pro riders change this on the same bike constantly, it's the first, most basic suspension setting to change to alter how a bike rides. So the idea that this would be a bad thing outside of your idea of where a perfect sag should be is absolutely stupid.
You might want to tell your sag rule to just about anybody who races bikes. If I know I have a pedally track the first thing I do (and most others do if they know what they're doing) is stiffen the suspension. It's a basic. If you think it's going to mess with the geo to the extent that you think it'll throw things "out of whack" (which you still haven't actually explained) you're a moron
Newbie riders tend to think that sag should be X% and that's it. They probably take it to their shop to add the air too.
Nobody said a 170mm bike is going to be just as good as a 120mm bike. In fact your comment which I responded to was about 140-150mm, so you seem to have pulled 120mm out of your ass.
The idea that somehow by stiffening and steepening it you're going to make it "out of whack" is complete bullshit, and that's what you said.
Yup.
Maybe you have only ever had one bike? Having some experience over time with multiple bikes might help you understand what I’m talking about. Am I wrong to say that pedaling kinematics are tuned around a certain range of sag? Am I wrong that deviating from the recommended settings could cause the bike not to function as intended or designed? Will it be bad or noticeable? Maybe some bikes will be better than others.
I’m not trying to take away your precious enduro bike for riding green trails. You’re free to do as you like. There are better tools for the job, but no bigger tools than you or @rbeach for name calling like second graders, hiding behind your keyboards.
Are you wrong to make claims about kinematics. Well, unless you can provide some evidence, any claims you make about kinematics can be dismissed.
Maybe some will be better than others, indeed! But the claim you made was that my suggestion would make things "out of whack". Unless you can demonstrate it can be dismissed.
Your little comments like "maybe you have only had one bike" and "precious enduro bike for riding green trails" merely betray a petty insecurity and inability to address the point (or lack thereof in your case as explained).
You called yourself a moron too. We agreed.
Yes you are wrong.
Sag % is just a measure of pressure, which will obviously vary depending on the weight of the rider. A given bike is designed to work with a range of sag percentages, not just one. The whole idea of starting with a sag % is to then adjust pressure to preference using sag as a starting point. And as for it affecting kinematics, that's not correct either, particularly with more effective anti-squat, the suspension kinematics will remain relatively consistent regardless of shock pressure (or resultant sag).
"Am I wrong that deviating from the recommended settings could cause the bike not to function as intended or designed?"
Yes again you are wrong, unless what the user is doing is outside of the limits of the components. Recommendations are precisely that, they are a starting point, after which most competent riders will make sometimes quite significant adjustments. As mentioned above, a flip chip is going to affect geometry much more than shock pressure (unless you are going from one absolute extreme to another, which you shouldn't be if you are starting off with the recommended sag - which is usually a range anyway, not a specific %).
As @rbeach said above, racers will adjust pressure significantly depending on trail conditions - Lew Buchanan has a great video about him tweaking shock pressure significantly to change bike feel.
Seb Stott, who wrote the article linked above, is extremely knowledgeable about the technical side of mountain biking. He is not making assertions without good reason. The key disadvantages of doing as he suggests as a permanent solution are 1: longer travel bikes generally weigh more and 2: if all you're doing is riding mellow trails then you are taking on this extra weight without any need for the benefits such bikes bring. But nobody above is suggesting that.
If however, you occasionally ride mellow trails then what he suggests is the perfect solution.
Call it a difference of opinion.
Nobody above appears to be saying that stiffening up a long travel bike is going to be as good as a short travel bike, but making those adjustments is absolutely a valid decision, and if you ride a mixture of terrain with a bias towards more gnar, then this makes complete sense.
I would also add that if you are not making those adjustments to some extent you are not optimizing your bike at all, but staying at a somewhat arbitrary point. If you set your sag at the recommended setting and never deviate, I would suggest that you are either riding extremely consistent terrain which happens to perfectly match the manufacturer's recommendation, or you are not utilizing the adjustability of your suspension to its potential.
Bike designers make those decisions with particular outcomes in mind. If the user wants different outcomes, then they will necessarily deviate. The recommended settings are a starting point, not an end but merely a means. And as stated previously, a flip chip results in a far more pronounced geo change and that has obviously been deliberately designed.
The point about flip chips is the resultant geo change, not whether you use them or not. They result in a larger change than any suspension tune is going to do, thus your still unsubstantiated remark about throwing things "out of whack". I can see why others in this thread have become exasperated.
Please refer to my previous two comments which have already explained why such a compromise does not exist for the situations you might want to do this. If you feel the need to respond, please repeat this. I have nothing further to add, and it appears neither do you.
Again. Nobody is saying that doing this is a good replacement for a 130mm bike. Nobody said they were a substitute. You didn't even say they were a poor substitute. You said it would throw things out of whack and then some vague gibberish about how bikes are designed.
It's incorrect to say that a higher stack translates to less grip. Stack has nothing to do with grip. If you have your damping setup correctly for the mellower ground then only your tyre choice will.
You clearly have no idea about bikes, so you continue to set your sag exactly at the recommended setting, and be sure to take your bike to the shop every time it needs a tyre changed or the shock pumped up
Buddy, flip chips are relevant because they result in a BIGGER GEO CHANGE than pumping up suspension, and yet they designed to be used so clearly don't throw things out of whack.
If you don't understand this, and you think stack height relates to grip, you are definitely a moron hahaha
Funny how quickly you slipped back into your old ways. "Is it offensive to you". @Jinkyjink gave you totally polite and reasoned points, much of which you ignored, and you're saying silly things like that.
“I think the benefits of short travel can 100% be replicated with smarter suspension damping/force.”
Nobody said that.
"The initial argument was that there is no reason to have anything but a longer travel bike unless you live in the plains"
Nope, nobody said that either. In fact, it was said several times that this would be for occasional use.
You sir, are a perfect example of an internet idiot
160-170mm all day long. The pedaling platforms and 78-79 degree seat tube angles have improved so vastly over the past couple of years, you're better off getting the extra travel if you plan on hitting the bike parks even 2x a year. Can't go wrong unless you live in the plains.”
From the 3rd comment “flag fewnofrwgijn (Feb 22, 2023 at 22:42)
I think the benefits of short travel can 100% be replicated with smarter suspension damping/force, and that the less travel actually IS the primary benefit, not weight, as your geometry doesn’t change as much and you have less “slush” when weighting your bike up and down, the power you put in comes through more and more like you expect it to as travel goes down.”
You guys need to work on your reading comprehension!
The lizards are in control.
You feel it on the downs my guy. Big bikes feel dead steeper HTA and and less travel makes for more fun on non steep/tech IMO. Trail bikes are best for most ppl. I’ve had a pile of bikes and I always miss my trail bikes the most.
My point is that a 130 is way more fun for trail riding than a 170 bike in general. Big bikes feel dead if the trails are mellow.
And I'm not going to buy a bike in 2023 nor SHOULD I, thank you very much. I already have a bike to ride.
Live out west or someplace with burlier riding but too timid to ride black trails? Downcountry
Live out west and send it? Longer travel trail
Race a discipline even remotely "seriously"? Get an enduro, DH, XC or whatever bike to round out the knobby quiver
P.S. live in a place with winter half the year? Also get a fat bike-no suspension
As always, feel free to have more bikes from more niches than needed at any time........
Also keep in mind that todays trail bike are the same geometry/travel as enduro bikes back in the 26 wheel era. Its very possible to get used to riding longer bikes and still be poppy and agile on them.
I race XC, ride enduro. So two bikes for me (plus curly bars), especially since they are near opposite ends of the spectrum.
Basically as I rode more and more I wanted less and less from my bike - except for that Spur. It felt like I was riding my enduro because of geometry and so I hit big features and the spindly SID fork wasn’t up to the job. I also found that I wasn’t strong enough to overpower a 38 fork and it felt just as stiff as a 40.
Never felt like weight was a good thing. Light is good.
Luckily I don’t have any friends so a HT suits me just fine.
[ buys a SC V10 ]
:blink:
And the components are basically the same. XT, GX, Fox, carbon wheels
...not too much innovation. Defo not enough to slam $5-6k on a new rig.
Guess I'll just keep mine rolling one more year.
The industry of course does what it does: it tries to lure you into a great deal, or claims that this or that is the best new thing you absolutely need to pedal, or shows ever more fine lists of categories and sub-categories to pick from. It works. I just went through the process of eventually turning down a Mojo 4 offered at 35% discount, finally realizing that I was not saving 35%, but spending 65% to get an extra bike I did not need!!
Keep your friend! It has been the companion of many adventures!
I'd like the gravel for Zone 2 training, Trail for general riding and the Enduro for the rougher North shore trails. But what will I be buying? Not much ... keeping what I have until the prices come down more.
Got a jump/4x bike
Got a BMX
Got a FS XC bike
Got a Trail/Enduro bike
Got a Dh bike.
So need a Gravel bike and an E bike still.
Mostly ride..... a spin bike (wrong in so many ways but my wife is the instructor so I do as I am told).
>> It was originally more of a tongue-in-cheek description for an imaginary category, but the term stuck,
Revise history much? You beat us over the head with this made-up term to great derision every chance you got, now claim it has "stuck". Right....
This message sponsored by the Multi-Terrain Bicycle Manufacturers Association
Take that kiddies……
Watch for the sale on them in the month of March for the USA.
Turns out I did need that beer.
www.pinkbike.com/news/the-pinkbike-podcast-episode-14-what-bikes-would-pinkbike-editors-buy.html
$4000 after tax is a ridiculously high point to start at, but thats also being pushed greatly by people who haven't paid cash for bikes in years and have lost touch with actual costs.
And what about a FAT bike?
It’s still winter somewhere.
And don’t get me started about DJ’s
www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/mountain-bikes/downcountry-mountain-bikes/c/B345
www.canyon.com/en-us/mountain-bikes/downcountry-bikes
chumbausa.com/sendero-titanium-custom-mountain-bike-29er
YEEWWW!!! xD \m/
Ferrum bikes located around Knoxville.
No bike category for a bike to ride just park?
That’s a bike
#analogisdead