Wolf Tooth Releases New GeoShift 2º Performance Angle Headset

Nov 6, 2021
by Wolf Tooth Components  
Wolf Tooth GeoShift 2 Performance Angle Headset

Press release: Wolf Tooth Components

The New GeoShift 2º Performance Angle Headset from Wolf Tooth allows riders to alter the geometry of their bike by changing the head tube angle by +/- 2º. These are sold as upper/lower pairs, with EC44/EC44, EC44/EC49, and EC44/ZS56 pairings and options for 90-115mm or 115-140mm head tubes. The EC44 uppers are compatible with frames that require ZS44 uppers. This new headset was designed, engineered, and machined in Wolf Tooth’s Minnesota machine shop.

Two positions are marked on the GeoShift Performance Angle Headset: +2º and -2º. Position the angle headset with -2º facing forward and slack will be added to the geometry, which creates more stable steering for fast descents. Conversely, reversing the orientation of the headset will add +2º to the head tube angle and make for a steeper geometry and more responsive steering. Both angle options are indicated on the headset along with dashes that need to be aligned with the centerline of the bike. Full installation instructions can be found on the product webpage.

Wolf Tooth GeoShift 2 Performance Angle Headset included parts

This new angle headset has a design that sets the bearings at an angle which matches the angle of the steerer tube. This design reduces the friction found in angle headsets that have the bearings that sit flat. This angled bearing positioning also limits the creaking found in angle headsets that have a spherical design.

The GeoShift 2º Performance Angle Headset builds on the existing GeoShift 1º Performance Angle Headset. The 1º option is also sold as upper/lower pairs, with ZS44/ZS56, ZS44/EC49, and EC44/EC44 pairings designed for the same short and long head tube lengths. The EC44 upper will also work with frames that require a ZS44 upper. It is labeled EC44 instead of ZS44 because the relatively narrow 44mm head tube requires the bearing to live outside of the frame.

To accompany the new GeoShift 2º Angle Headset is a new Crown Race Adapter for 1 ⅛” steerer tubes to 1 ½” headset cups. All Wolf Tooth GeoShift Angle Headsets, and many Wolf Tooth non-angle headsets, use 1 ½” headset cups. This new Crown Race Adapter will allow forks with 1 ⅛” steerer tubes to use GeoShift Angle Headsets. Wolf Tooth also has a Crown Race Adapter for 1 ¼” steerer tubes to 1 ½” headset cups.

Wolf Tooth Crown Race Adapter 1 1 8 steerer tubes to 1 1 2 headset cups and Crown Race Installation Adapter
Wolf Tooth Crown Race Adapter 1 1 8 steerer tubes to 1 1 2 headset cups installed
Crown Race Adapter 1 1/8" steerer tube to 1 1/2" headset cup (black) and Crown Race Installation Adapter (red)

Installation of the Wolf Tooth GeoShift 2º Angle Headset is relatively simple, though the machined angle of the headset cups requires special care when being pressed into the frame. To help with this, two 3D-printed drifts that serve as installation guides are included in every purchase. A video detailing installation using these drifts is also available on the product page on the Wolf Tooth website, as well as a detailed compatibility guide to be sure that your bike can use a Wolf Tooth angle headset.

Wolf Tooth GeoShift 2 Performance Angle Headset with drift
Wolf Tooth GeoShift 2 Performance Angle Headset with drift installed
3D-printed drifts to help with installation are included with purchase

This is part of Wolf Tooth’s Performance Headset product line that was first launched in 2018. These are lightweight, strong, durable headsets made with aircraft-grade 6061 aluminum and have a triple-sealed system to protect the bearings from the elements. Performance Headsets use black oxide bearings made by Enduro. These bearings are engineered to use the largest possible ball size and are filled with high-pressure waterproof lubricant. A pair of dual-lip seals ride in micro-grooves to further protect the bearings from water and debris.

Find GeoShift 2º Performance Angle Headsets available now on WolfToothComponents.com for $104.95 USD and wherever Wolf Tooth is sold.


178 Comments

  • 255 1
 Can I do the 2* offset to the left? Cause I can't corner to the right for shit.
  • 168 13
 They are coming up with two versions:
- the Liberal (CAN) and Democrat (US) for left turns
- The Conservative (CAN) and Republican (US) for right turns

There will be a custom Canadian model that offsets you 3 degrees to the left and 3 degrees negative offset called the "Trudeau". This one will be free to all consumers.
  • 98 9
 @dldewar: and the trudeau will only come in the color black(face)
  • 89 12
 A ‘’Biden’’ option that would be obsolete before even hitting the market would be great as well.
  • 46 9
 @dldewar: The Trudeau model will probably fail under pressure like its namesake.
  • 24 1
 @dldewar: This could be very confusing when used in Europe, where what's considered "left" in the US is centre, or worse.
  • 36 1
 Trump: I’ll have my people make some anglesets too, ya know. Good people great people. I’ve met them and they’re good I’ll tell ya, good people, great people. It’s gonna be fantastic! *pouts mouth*
  • 4 0
 @t1000: already covered with the 1 1/8” crown race.
  • 14 7
 @dldewar: yay more politics!!!! /s
  • 10 5
 Yeah. Sorry. I keep forgetting how bad it is in the US. I actually hang out with people that voted for the liberals, conservatives, New Democrats and greens. It is much more polarized in the US. @Burningbird:
  • 5 2
 @dldewar: No worries, I am as guilty as the next when it comes to letting politics bleed into other spaces. I am trying to limit that myself, especially online where what would be a throw away comment among friends can devolve into an ideological cage match
  • 9 0
 @dldewar: will the trudeau model need to be replaced 2 years before planned and cost 600 million?
  • 3 0
 @bishopsmike from your comment I assume you are either a Nascar driver, or you're not an ambi- turner.
  • 13 0
 @Burningbird: If there were some ideology involved it wouldn't be so bad, the real problem is that politics has gone past ideology and dogma and is now little more than naked tribalism.
  • 5 3
 @t1000: the Biden option was developed in 1856 but will be released to market in 2023, as long as no one forgets their marketing lines for the introduction.
  • 3 0
 Teleprompter @Mac1987:
  • 7 1
 @BovineAssassin: The Trump MEGA red with a tint of orange on the face would make your bike look "great" - AGAIN! Big Grin
  • 5 0
 @dldewar: Or maybe get the "Merkel" version - fantastically reliable, very predictable, stellar production quality that will last for the next 16 years. But unfortunately it won't actually change anything. Everything will just stay as it is.
  • 3 0
 @SimonJaeger: it will also invite 2 million people to your New Eve's party. It's not going to be lonely, but don't forget to buy enough snacks!
  • 5 0
 @Mac1987: Yeah... Good thing I live in Switzerland now.
  • 2 0
 @dldewar: In the uk they could release a special model called the "Thatcher," which has no head set bearings thus locking the steering in the strait ahead position. Because she was not for turning.
  • 59 1
 Now I can get my stumpy Evo all the way down to 61.5 degrees. Just what my trail bike needed.
  • 7 1
 or it can make a 2017 giant trance ride as good as a modern trail bike at only 1/4 the price.
  • 3 0
 You know someone is going to do this...
  • 1 0
 @PAmtbiker: I will raise you one.

m.pinkbike.com/buysell/3165841 1800 bucks plus angle set to have a bike that rides as good as a transition scout.
Ps not my listing.
  • 1 0
 bro you can make it almost 61 even in the low bb setting!
  • 7 0
 Don’t have any experience with any angle sets…. But how much would it change the reach numbers ? Say you have a 65 degree before and 480 reach… anybody do the math? How much would it change?? Anybody with experiences… how’s this with creaking?
  • 10 1
 The ones iv used have roughly shortened reach by 5ish mm
  • 4 0
 @TomsiR: I would say my WC 2 degree is closer to 10mm. It is a ec44/ec44 so that might be more than some other options.
  • 13 1
 I believe it would depend on the length of your steerer above the headset right? Possibly the stem as well. You could do a little trig to figure it out.
  • 5 27
flag GrandMasterOrge (Nov 6, 2021 at 7:46) (Below Threshold)
 @steflund: reach is measured to the centre of the top of the head tube, so it won't be affected technically although in practical feel yes.

Also reach gets longer with an Anglesey, not shorter.
  • 13 1
 @GrandMasterOrge: the front end drops as the fork is more raked, so that lengthens reach, but then the offset cup shortens reach. It’s a bit tricky to figure out the net effect.
  • 13 0
 trigonometry bro
  • 12 3
 @GrandMasterOrge:

The steerer is moved back about 5-7mm where it exits the top cup, so yes it will reduce reach if slackening headset.

Loads of experience running works components anglesets
  • 7 0
 @DMal:

Rake lowering the head tube height - yes you are correct but its minimal and usually offset by the increased stack in the lower cup. Even the A ZS lower cup is about 4mm extra stack height.
  • 9 4
 It won’t creak. Its only the adjustable cane creek one that creeks
  • 8 0
 I slackened my Knolly 2 degrees. The cups moved the steerer tube back, but rotating the fork forward dropped the front end a fair bit, meaning I increased my reach by about 5mm. If your wondering about the specifics for your bike, there are bike calculators that make the math easy.
  • 2 8
flag dldewar (Nov 6, 2021 at 9:10) (Below Threshold)
 Be careful about height of your bars too. Your stack has just went up under the fork and stem. 9point8 has an excellent explanation for it. Did a 1.2 degree on an older Hightower. My bar height went up over 3/4 an inch - 20 mm. Others have explained your reach question well.

When you do it - your seat tube angle slackens too - you will have to tilt your saddle back down and slide forward to get the same position over the crank - this is mild but you loose distance to the bar but not reach because of this.

No creaking thanks to my friends at 9 point 8. The solid non angle set headsets I have used DO NOT CREAK. If you have an angle set - use earplugs
  • 19 0
 @dldewar: nope, you ST actually steepens.
  • 3 0
 @dldewar: no, installing an angleset will steepen your seat tube angle. My Works angleset has a zero stack lower cup. Front end dropped quite a bit, which means the whole frame rotated. Had to put all the spacers under the bars to account for that. Final numbers after installing a 2 degree angleset was .5 degree steeper SA, +5mm reach, 64.5 HA, BB 8mm lower.
  • 3 0
 Can't calculate it, because you've given unsufficient information. This also vastly depends on other factors like the axle-to-crown distance, the stack, etc.
  • 7 2
 @steflund: No, reach is measured as the vertical distance from the point above your bottom bracket to the center of the top side of your head tube. It's a measurement of the frame and not of how you sit on the frame. Anything above the head tube (headset spacers, stem, bars) only affects the effective horizontal top tube measurement, but not the reach. There is also no standard way of measuring the horizontal top tube so the results may vary.
  • 4 3
 Have use 3 of these now. Decreases reach depending on how slack you go. Increases wheelbase and steepens your STA. Also drops your BB slightly.

There’s a few bike geo calculators and comparison tools out there that will tell you exact numbers.
  • 3 3
 @rich-2000: That is not what reach is. You're talking about the effective top tube length, not the reach.

Depending on the stack height, reach would typically get shorter if you raise the top of the head tube relative to the ground. When you slacken the angle at which the fork sits with the angle set, the stack height will drop as the entire bike pivots sleightly forwards on the rear wheel. This will lower the bottom bracket and increase the reach if the axle to crown ratio isn't also lenghtened, but also simultaneously shorten the effective top tube.
  • 6 0
 @islandforlife: No. An angleset with a negative offset will increase your reach as it drops your head tube. You're talking about the horizontal top tube distance.

Have a look at this animation made by Wolftooth that visualizes the changes: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0230/9291/files/GeoShift_installed_2.gif?v=1631906557
  • 2 0
 @Mondbiker: Mine slackened slightly with the 9point8 as the 11 mm or so of extra lift at the bottom was greater than the drop created by the extra angle. It was the same as when I added 10 m mto my fork travel - I had to tilt the nose of my saddle down. I swear it happened! But it my be different with other products.
  • 1 0
 Give or take 6mm longer reach, 4mm lower BB, and 0.5deg steeper STA.

Slight variations in reach depending on the angleset. Some anglets move the lower bearing and some the upper. If you move the upper bearing the increase in reach from slackening (and therefor lowering) the frontend would probably just about cancel out the decrease in reach from the bearing moving.

https://geo.syn.bike
  • 3 1
 @RoboDuck: This calculator is great. So everyone is right but I needed to be more precise in my response. In my case I took a 67 degree hightower added 10 mm of travel and but a 1.2 degree SLACKER in. The calculator says my seat angle slackens slightly and reach goes down 6 mm. Bang on.

But when you use the wolftooth at 2 degrees with a smaller lower headset stack change say 8 mm- then reach goes up slightly as does seat angle. Likely too small to really notice.

I humbly eat crow........
  • 1 0
 @dldewar: well, for integrated headsets it´s true because you have to change bottom cup to something with much taller stack height, same applies to cc anglesets if anyone is still using them lol.
  • 1 3
 @BenTheSwabian: nope… it does drop the headtube but you offset that by adding spacers to bring your stack back up. Plus the Works Components angle sets have a 11mm EC upper cup which on its own usually offsets the drop. What you can’t offset the top of the steerer being angled further back which shortens your reach. I’ve measured all 3 bikes and each, at the same stack, ended up with shorter reaches.
  • 1 0
 @islandforlife: I have used a Works Components and a Wolf Tooth -1° on the same bike. Aside from WT offering a ZS44 top in the -1° unlike works, the way they shift the fork differs.

Works centers the crown race in the lower cup and uses the top cup to move the steerer tube towards the rider — shortening reach. Wolf Tooth keeps the steerer tube centered in the top cup, but kicks the crown forward — lengthening reach slightly. It isn't a lot, but you can tell if set them up back to back.
  • 1 0
 @shapethings:

Clear to see in the pics above that the top cup is offset
  • 2 2
 @rich-2000: When it comes to off road, "Adjustable" means breakable
  • 2 4
 @islandforlife: Once again, what you're talking about is not Reach. Reach is the vertical distance from the point perfectly vertical above your bottom bracket to the middle of the upper opening of the head tube. Stem spacers don't have anything to do with Reach. Thats also why only the height of the lower cup would affect the reach measurement as it would raise up the head tube. I don't know what you measured, but, if that distance increased, it can't have been reach.
  • 3 2
 @BenTheSwabian: I think you’re missing the point where the effective upper opening of your head tube moves back because the upper cup offsets the bearing rearward. Google “works components upper cup”. This has nothing to do with stem spacers, or stack height, the point where the steering axis exits the top of the head tube has moved rearward. It’s the same as if you just had a taller head tube that was slacker. The head tube does rock forward due to slackening the steering axis, but not quite enough to offset the rearward movement of the new upper opening of the head tube.
  • 1 0
 @bikeracer28:
On a 100mm head tube 1* is 0.076" or 1.93mm. If both cups are offset that's only 0.965mm on each

On a 100mm head tube 2* is 0.152" or 3.86mm if both cups are offset that's only 1.84mm on each.

It's likely the reach situation is pretty self canceling I don't have any numbers for rotating the frame down but I can also see why people might precieve the bike as shorter as the steering stems slacker angle and the possibly increased stack height Will move the bars back some.

It's likely that 4h3
  • 1 0
 @englertracing: yes, the offsets are small (fwiw, the Works Components only offsets the upper cup, so all 3.8mm reduction to reach, theoretically). And determining exactly how much of the offset is negated by the lowering of the front end (due to reduced head angle) is hard to calculate without knowing wheel base, A-C, initial head angle, etc. Though from my approximations, I would agree that the shortened reach due to offset cup is mostly negated by the lowered front end.

My point was merely that it’s not simply a change in effective top tube (that could be seen as well) but that one could actually experience a shortening (or growing) reach, given the right set up parameters.
  • 1 0
 @AckshunW: Skimmed right past it. The Wolf Tooth -2° is doing the same thing as the works, not surprising since with there is only so much space available in one cup.

Curious about the 3D printed drifts, what really bothers me about my -1° Wolf Tooth cups is that the machined guide groove/notch and the laser printed guide are not aligned, so I tried to install it in-between both and hope for the best.
  • 2 0
 @shapethings: Alignment marks that would align the headset out of alignment, sounds perfect…

The machined one would be the right one to use, they just didn’t align it in the laser correctly.
  • 4 2
 @BenTheSwabian: You’re being pedantic and I think you know it. There’s frame reach, which is what you’re talking about, the measurement that shows up in geo charts.

There’s also saddle-to-bar reach, a metric that’s been around far longer than we’ve been talking about frame stack and frame reach. Saddle to bar reach is a critical fit measurement, and is absolutely affected by bar rise, fork height, spacers, use of an angleset, and so on.

People are clearly talking about the latter, but you’re either being dense or intentionally obtuse. Stop it.
  • 2 0
 @BenTheSwabian:

You say “Reach is the vertical distance from the point perfectly vertical above your bottom bracket to the middle of the upper opening of the head tube.”

You are correct in the above statement. What you are missing is that the “middle of the upper opening of the head tube” is shifted by 4-5mm by the offset top cup. It is eccentric.

You realise you can get REACH adjustable headsets too? Where there is no change in angle but the steerer is moved forwards or backwards 5-6mm?
  • 2 5
 @rich-2000: I got that, but what is really being shifted by the offset headset cup is the steerer tube, not the geometrical center point of the headtube. The geometric center of the head tube will stay the center of the head tube regardless of what headset you install or how it's offset. Relevant is only where that center point is positioned relative to the bottom bracket and the rear axle, which effectively acts as a pivoting point. Lowering the headtube by raking out the head angle will increase reach, raising the headtube by steepening the head angle will shorten reach.

It comes down to simple trigonometry. Imagine the distance between the rear axle and center of the bottom bracket and the distance between the rear axle and the center of the head tube as radii of two circles. As you pivot the frame forward/downward on the rear axle by slackening the HTA, the bottom bracket gets tilted downwards and slightly rearwards because it is past the horizontal zenith of it's angular path of motion. The center of the head tube on the other hand gets shifted downwards and slightly forwards as it hasn't yet reached the horizontal zenith of its angular path of motion. This will increase the horizontal distance between the bottom bracket and the head tube.
  • 3 4
 @BrambleLee: Get over yourself.
  • 2 2
 @BenTheSwabian: No. Reach as in the Reach in geo tables when looking at a bike... as in the reach you experience while standing on your pedals and grabbing your handlebars IS affected by using any of the anglesets.

1. When you add this angleset, it pushes the stop of the steerer reward (your handlbars are attached to your steerer via your stem, so your handlebars are pushed rearward.

2. When adding an agleset, it does drop your headtube slightly, so if all that changed was ONLY the angle of your steerer, yes your reach would lengthen by approx 1 to 2mm.

3. However, this angleset also adds 15mm of stack to your bike. Not many people understand the relationship stack has with reach. People buy bikes with a 480 reach and then add 20mm of spacers and don't realize they're now riding a bike with a 470 reach. So if you take into account, the added angle of the steerer, minimally dropped head tube and substantially added stack height... your exact numbers with vary depending on the rest of the geo of your bike, but with this -1 degree angleset, you can expect to see your reach shortened by approx 5 to 6mm (480 to 475). With the 2 degree version, it will shorten 4 to 5mm.

4. I literally just did this to my wife's bike last week. Added a Works Components -2 degrees EC44-ZS56 angleset to her bike. I used a geo calculator before as well as measured the distance between the centre of her stem and seat (which if that shortens, your handlebars moved closer to you bottom bracket so your reach also shortened) and the measurements don't lie.

So either your trig numbers are off or you're not understanding how this works. I think what you're missing is that the effect of dropping the head tube is very very small, while the effect of pushing the top of the steerer rearward, changing the angle of the steerer and adding 15mm of stack is far more pronounced... than the drop of the headtube.

Here's one of the geo calculators I use - madscientistmtb.com/bike-geometry-calculator
  • 2 2
 @islandforlife: “bUT tHe CEnTer OF thE hEAdTubE rEMaiNS ThE sAMe, REaCh iS UNAfFecTeD!!!!”
—BenTheSwabian
  • 2 7
flag BenTheSwabian (Nov 8, 2021 at 11:24) (Below Threshold)
 @BrambleLee: Oh, someone seems a little butthurt Smile

Besides, if you would have taken a minute to stop bitching and read the comment, you'd know that I didn't even say that. I said reach lengthens.
  • 2 4
 @islandforlife: I understand what you're saing and you're entirely correct in what you're saying and I don't debate that.
All I'm saying is that you might be slightly off on what you think the term "reach" exactly describes.
  • 2 2
 @BenTheSwabian: and islandforlife:

I think the actual reach, as in the horizontal distance from the center of your upper headset bearing and the center of the BB, doesn’t really change much.

As englertracing pointed out (and I confirmed it with trig myself) the actual rearward movement of the bearing is only 3.88mm. That includes the affect from the additional stack from the upper headset cup, which is 11mm extra stack for the WC ec44 upper cup. To calculate the downward/forward shift from the reduced head angle (moving the crown of the fork closer to the ground, as Ben has pointed out) is hard to calculate because it depends on wheelbase, initial head angle, geometrical stack height, etc. however, from back of the envelop calculations, it seems to me that they about cancel out.

Actual reach (as defined at the top of my comment) could go slightly longer or shorter, or stay the same, but it will depend on your bike. For setup purposes, if you use a lot of stem spacers, your “bar reach” will change more per spacer than before the angle adjusting headset. But this is the case with any slacker head angle.
  • 5 2
 @BenTheSwabian: Wtf? So your whole f*cking argument was based on a different definition of reach?! And one that has zero bearing on what we're talking about?? f*ck me, what a waste of everyone's time.

So for everyone else... yes, using an angleset will reduce your reach. Cheers everyone.. . I hope you stopped reading several comments ago!
  • 2 3
 @bikeracer28: no one cares about that measurement. Did your handlebars move inwards as a result of adding an angleset? Yes. That's all anyone cares about. Call it whatever you want... effective reach? Whatever... it changes the feel, for good or better it depends on your bike and what you want. But people should know that your "riding your bike reach" will reduce by around 5mm if you install this headset on your bike.
  • 2 3
 @islandforlife: You off all people shouldn't talk so big as apparently you don't even understand what reach is. For such a strong opinion you seem to have surprisingly little understanding of whats going on.
  • 2 4
 @islandforlife: LOL. You still are objectively wrong about reach. So if anything, you are wasting everybody's time by being ignorant.
  • 3 3
 @BenTheSwabian: Odd how you are more or less the only person in this entire comment thread who understands what is going on and they still downvote you.
  • 3 0
 @islandforlife: when you are using specific terms, their specific definitions matter. Some might know what you mean but that relies on the readers understanding to decipher the exact intent. This is the root of this whole argument.

Also, many people care about that measurement, that is why it is the standard reported on geometry charts…

FWIW, I jumped in to this conversation initially on your side, and have tried to be objective and fair in my analysis and comments.
  • 3 2
 @BrambleLee: Would you say that to a maths teacher who explains to his student why he got a problem wrong? Would you also call him "pedantic" and "obtuse" for pointing out the students error? You are being ridiculous. Stop it.
  • 2 0
 @islandforlife: The center of the steerer tube will drop back a few mm due to the offset in the headset, and it will move forward a few mm due to the frame rotating forwards - I'd be interested to see whether the change is net +ve or -ve.
  • 9 0
 Nice to see a similar product to the Works Components 2 degree on this side of the pond. Would highly recommend. Though I just Sam Pilgrim'd my WC in without any trouble.
  • 10 5
 you were a twat to it?
  • 6 2
 @mtb-scotland: Why is the word twat being posted so much?
  • 3 0
 @JohanG: The flag man look at the flag!
  • 2 0
 @JohanG: twat means fanny (not the US meaning)
  • 5 0
 @mtb-scotland: Australian fanny?
  • 1 0
 @Scrotsy13: not a clue what that would be.
  • 1 0
 @JohanG: Because it sounds funny to everyone outside the UK
  • 2 0
 @Scrotsy13: To Australians, c*nt!
  • 1 0
 hi:
  • 3 0
 As long as you didn't Jack Moir it...

(as in: hit it with a rock, like Jack did to straighten his rim)
  • 1 0
 Sam pilgrim is a twat @englertracing:
  • 5 2
 Make your own grim donut!

I used anglesets for a few years, they work fine, just use copper grease to prevent binding and the fumbles were creak free.

Wasn’t it yesterday when we had that pill asking folks I what they felt about current geo trends … and the majority thought we were already there or close to ideal.

Good in Wolf Tooth to push the boundaries!
  • 22 2
 Don't know if you're aware of the supply situation. People wanna buy bikes yet there are none.
So people: buy a 2016 bike (one size taller than usually), install an angleset and there you are... Modern geometry at a low price (except stand over height, I must confess)
  • 5 1
 @tofhami: yep, just bought my wife a 2017 Norco Sight that had been ridden 4 times. Thing was brand new! Put a Works Components -2 degree angle set on it and changed the HA from 67 to 65. Perfect. Had one on her previous bike and have another on my sons bike. They work very well.
  • 8 3
 Whenever I see a 2° angleset I always feel like if you're having to make an adjustment that big then you're probably on the wrong bike
  • 13 2
 @DC1988: I get your point but if the wrong bike is only a headset away from being the right bike, it may be a good option
  • 5 2
 Or in 3 years when shorter, taller and steeper are the trend, you can make your 2021 bike more “modern”, or the grim reaper ridable.
  • 3 0
 I for one do think that we're close to the ideal. I do want my next bike to be both, significantly shorter and slightly steeper.
  • 1 0
 @DC1988: Wrong bike?

Again... picked up a 2017 Norco Sight that had been ridden 4 times. Got it for $1800. Thing is basically brand new. Fits her almost perfect... and I adjusted a couple of parts spec (better range cassette, nicer stem, handlebar and dropper lever because I have them on hand).

The only issue with the bike is that the stock HA was 66.7. And I learned from experience that by adding a -1.5 angleset to her previous bike and doing the same with my son's bike that both of their confidence level immediately rose substantially with zero downsides. Adding a -2 degree angle set brings it to a much more modern 65 degrees, while at the same time it shortened her reach by 4mm (which was better for her), steepened the STA (which was better) and dropped the bottom bracket a little (which was better).

She's on the right bike.
  • 3 0
 In case there weren't any spacers below the stem before, mounting a headset with higher upper cup forces you to mount your stem higher which causes to reduce the "effective reach" of the whole system determined by frame angles, flip chip flipping, overforking, mulleting, lower cup height and fork mounting angle.

Btw, great to have a 2 degree option for 44mm steerer tubes.
Maybe this will enable me to build up old 26" frames for my kids with decent geometry.

A high upper cup for sure alters the reach - the "effective reach" to be picky. That is because you can not mount your stem lower than the upper cup of the headset allows.
  • 1 0
 You can also get those (44mm straight headtube) from superstar components in the UK, for 50 gbp plus shipping (5gbp to Austria, should be the same for Germany). They also offer combinations for straight steerer forks, and other headtube configurations. I'm using 2 on kona honzos (2016 Ti, 2013st) and am very happy with them. Recon you need about 0.5-1cm additional steerer tube length available for the external upper cup and slightly taller external lower.
  • 4 0
 Which headset combination should I use if I have a Z56/Z56 headset (like on the new Transition Patrol? I would like to steepen the HA by 1 degree
  • 5 0
 Works components
  • 6 1
 Just what the Grim Donut needs, slacken that jelly filled donut out!!
  • 4 0
 @9point8 when's the IS 42 Slack R coming? Or should I just make a shim to make the IS 41 one work at this point
  • 2 0
 I need the 42 for my Cannondale. I'd buy it in a heartbeat.
  • 2 0
 @vtracer: I emailed them last week. Same message as before, coming soon. No mailing list, just up to us to notice that we could give them money for a product.
  • 1 0
 9point8's website indicates they exist at (change from last month at least, when they said they didn't have any products for IS42),but the IS42 options are greyed out when you go to order. I've been corresponding with them by email for a couple months now, and all I've got is "they're coming very soon!"

A little frustrating, but maybe understandable with all the global supply issues. Still, I agree: they really should have some kind of mailing list to tell you when they're available. It sounds like there is a pretty large demand of an IS42 headset with a lot of people waiting for it.

I'm on a 2018 Spesh Camber 27.5 that I really love, but slacking it out a bit would make it a lot more stable (which is my only complaint about the bike, and I'd keep it a while longer if I can make this upgrade).

So if you end up machining some shims, definitely run a set for me too ..
  • 3 0
 @DHhack: @jgoldfield @Ryan2949 it appears we are in luck, with the IS 42 Slack R now available
  • 2 0
 @vtracer: Hell yeah dude! Thanks for the heads up. Even if 9point8 can't give me an automated alert, good to know I can always count on the good people on Pinkbike to let me know
  • 1 0
 @vtracer: thanks for this, I ordered my 1.6 degree slackr yesterday!
  • 1 0
 @vtracer: ordered mine, thanks for the heads up 8-)
  • 4 0
 Am I the only one who wants to install one 90degrees out just to see how weird it feels?
  • 6 0
 Only works for Nascar bike courses.
  • 2 0
 @carym: *speedway bikes*
  • 4 0
 Someone needs to work out a way of making anglesets for these annoying integrated headsets that are getting more common.
  • 3 0
 Someone already did
  • 1 0
 @ceecee:

Ah cool - thanks for that!!!
  • 1 0
 @rich-2000: Unless you have an IS42/IS52 integrated headset, in which case you're out of luck at the moment (9point8 is supposedly hopefully eventually going to make one)
  • 1 0
 Awesome they’re making a race for straight 1 1/8” steerers! If you have a bike that’s great except for it’s 68 degree head angle, chances are it doesn’t have a tapered fork. This will bring a lot of old bikes back into the game
  • 1 0
 Pretty much every headset manufacturer does the same thing…
  • 2 0
 Sorry if I missed it, but does anyone know if many frames have issues running a two deg slacker fork? Im pretty sure it would void warranty but does it matter in the real world?
  • 2 0
 The upper cup of the angleset is offset to the rear, shifting the load rearwards. The frame of my Specialized Enduro cracked at the head tube in exactly that spot, just from normal use. I would honestly not risk the increased stress on a frame that is known for cracking easily.
  • 3 0
 I’ve been using the 1 degree angle set from them. Nice product that I would recommend.
  • 1 0
 I Have a -2deg WC on my MK1 alu jeffsy and love it. Also paired it with a 160 lyric. Gave new life to the bike! Reach is prob shorter but wheelbase is longer I think. Really easy way to change-up a bike.
  • 1 0
 I've still got a Superstar Slackerizer kicking around (-2deg angleset) for my Cannondale Prophet to bring the head angle back to 65deg but haven't done it yet. Still a bit worried about how the reach will get even shorter with the front center getting longer. Could just as well pull the trigger as I'm not riding that bike now anyway (mostly on the hardtdail) but yeah, it may or may not work.
  • 1 0
 Depends on how much longer the axle to crown of that fork is. Because the angleset by its own actually increases the reach by lowering the head tube.
  • 1 0
 Virtually useless with nearly every bike having an integrated headset. There is a reason the angleset was also unused for the last decade since brands went the integrated route.
  • 1 0
 Cool to see more 3D printed stuff make its way into actually products, makes a ton of sense for low volume production stuff.
  • 2 1
 Only if you have your own printer. If you have to pay a third party, it's stupid expensive.
  • 1 0
 Not interested because there isn’t an oilslick option to match all my other oilslick parts
  • 2 0
 I'm waiting for the Grim Donut Angle headset.
  • 2 0
 -12 degrees?
  • 2 0
 I'd use this to make my bike steeper.
  • 1 0
 Ups, I didn't mean to post the last paragrah. :-(
  • 1 0
 PB should test this. On the grim donut
  • 5 5
 Overpriced. Works components is cheaper
  • 7 2
 £78 shipped for Works comes to $105.28.
  • 4 1
 Superstar Slackerizer is even better and cheaper.
  • 2 1
 Works Components also has much smaller steps for the head tube length. 10mm steps instead of 25mm here...
  • 1 1
 @Happymtbfr: Depends on your headtube. The Works one only has an IC for the bottom and EC for the top. The WT one has an IC for bottom and top which is significantly cleaner. In Aus, the price for Works and the WT is almost exactly the same shipped.
  • 1 0
 @Happymtbfr: I’m not sure how WT have got around that issue - I would think it impossible to get a 2 degree change if you fit one to a 135-140mm headtube - Im sure Works don’t do it for fun,
  • 1 0
 @lennskii: the top from WT looks pretty external to me...
  • 1 0
 @justanotherusername: yes, my point exactly.
The bigger steps also implies that the alignment of the bearings will be further off at the extremities of the steps putting more stress and wear on the headset and headtube
  • 1 0
 @Happymtbfr: Keeps inventory levels low would be my guess.
  • 1 0
 @steelispossiblyreal: That ones £70.33 shipped to the USA or about $95 - where is the extra coming from?
  • 1 0
 @Happymtbfr: go to the WT website. They have IC and EC configurations.
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