It's happening. They decided to release the proto and the color. :)
You must login to Pinkbike.
Don't have an account? Sign up

Join Pinkbike  Login
It's happening. They decided to release the proto and the color. :)
15 Comments
  • 1 0
 What is it?
  • 1 0
 Last FastForward. Go to the Sexy hardtail thread. Or in the piggy thread I've posted the geo. It's gonna be 400eur via kickstarte. Adjustable chainlenght, 64ha. the shiz.
  • 1 0
 Yep that's it!
  • 1 0
 Noooo, I wanted the green Frown Now we're both gonna have the green one. :'(
  • 1 0
 Haha, Nah proberbly gonna go with Raw or black.
  • 1 0
 Damn, I haven't been this exited about a bike since I got my first bike 20 years ago Razz
  • 1 0
 Ì was this exited when i got my meta. My first decent ride. Bud this is gonna be a fun shred machine on the local tracks.

Whats up with the asymmetric 135mm rear end need anny special hubs or wheels for that? Got some Hope pro2evo 26inch wheels spare wich i could get relaced for 27.5+.
  • 1 0
 Nope. just a good ol 135x10 hub. The difference is that you offset the rim compared to the hubflanges to the middle of the flanges instead of the middle of the hub.

For instance. distance between the flanges on the Koozer hubs I'm getting for this build is 56mm roughly. When the wheels is built traditional (centered on between the ends of the hub.) the distance between the rim and the flanges is 34mm from the left and 22mm from the right. this means that the wheels needs to be dished on the driveside (higher tension). If you offset the wheel 6mm to the drive side, you move the rim 6mm to the left, and the distance between the flanges is then 28mm/28mm which gives you perfect distribution of forces applied on the spokes. Meaning that the tension between the rim and the hub is even on the drive and non drive side. This gives you increasingly stiffer wheel, with more unified stress transfer on the hubs. I've built fixed gear track wheels before and because the rim is centered between the flanges on them the wheels are extremely stiff. this is the same principle. Basically, this solves the noodly feel of the biger wheels without the need for boost. You gain all the benefits without the need to get new hubs with new stupid standards. It's actually really different. Id even if you have existing 29er wheel there is no need for rebuild, you just need to retension the wheels because the spoke difference is les than a mm. I've posted the measurements on the sexy hardtail thread for comparison. Good this for this is you have no need for a 12mm throuaxle to have a really strong and stiff rear end. As for the crank, you need 52mm chainline, and it's basically means running the chainring on the outer of the spider instead on the inner.

Hope this cleared you some things a bit.
  • 1 0
 Thnx. Explained a lot! Bookmarked everything for when its time to get them build. Buddy proberbly know how to lace them correct so shouldnt be a problem.
Was thinking about getting the Dt swiss XM 551 27.5 rims
www.dtswiss.com/Components/Rims-MTB/XM-551-27-5
  • 1 0
 No probs man. It's easy. Most modern truing stand have settings for offset and dishing.
  • 1 0
 13758/19800. only 5k more to go!
  • 1 0
 Fuck yeah. Looks like they are gonna fund it in the first 24hrs
  • 1 0
 I'm on it. Sheesh. Hold your horses.
  • 1 0
 GOGOGO







Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv42 0.018343
Mobile Version of Website