BuickV6
- Member since Jan 17, 2015
- Male / 47
-
Bakersfield , California - 2 Followers
- 0 Trailforks Points
Recent
Selling
Nov 29, 2016 at 10:10
Nov 29, 2016
Trance SX tons of upgrades and extras
$3100 USDI'm selling my 2014 Trance SX and all gear to go with it. Nearly the only thing stock is the frame. Very low mileage. Paint, accessories, and bike are in excellent condition. **Pictures to come when I get off work**
Upgrades:
2016 Fit 4 damper, CCInline 57mm stroke shock, 30t Wolftooth chain ring, E-thirteen 9-44 cassette, new chain, Zee brakes with screw in pad retention, Brand new rear finned pads, 25 miles on the front finned pads, 203mm Icetech rotors, Crampon Magnesium pedals, WTB saddle with titanium rails, Specialized Command Post IRCC 125mm dropper, 2.3mm almost new Magic Mary and new Hans Dampf tubeless tires, Bontrager Rhythm Pro carbon bar 820mm uncut, Chromag Square Wave XL grips, Giant 48mm stem, XX1 shifter, X01 derailleur.
The majority of these parts have very low mileage, under 25 miles for almost everything except for the brakes, rear and front shocks, and shifter, derailleur. All parts are under 100 miles.
Accessories:
Dinotte XML-3 light with everything included. Fox body armor used twice, Used twice Giro black full face helmet perfect condition, shock pump, nearly full Fox 20wt gold oil, nearly full 1L Shimano mineral oil and brake bleed kit, chain whip, 32mm wolf tooth chain ring, lightly used knee and shin pads. The original Rock Razor and Hans Damf tires that came with the bike with 3/4 tread on the front, 5/8 tread on the rear. I'm sure there's more that I'm forgetting. *Forgot the new Camelbak with one ride* Skyline 10LR.
This is pretty much my dream list of parts and accessories and just about anything someone would need to get into mountain biking. The bike, accessories, and upgrades are in excellent condition. I've shown 44mph on Strava with the 30t CR and 9-44 on the rear so it doesn't limit you at all. I didn't get to use it as much as I wanted partially due to hospital visits and now I have to get rid of it. The bike frame has about 100 miles on it and it shows in the condition it's in. No scratches, a couple very small chips that you only notice when washing it. Front is 160mm and rear is about 160mm travel with the 57mm shock. It behaves very well with the extra stroke and no clearance issues. Tires have about 10 miles (one ride) on them as does the dropper, bars, stem, cassette, chain, chain ring.
BuickV6 astonmtb's article
Sep 3, 2015 at 17:26
Sep 3, 2015
Hardcore German Tech(no?) - Eurobike 2015
No antifreeze in your radiator? The antifreeze acts as a water pump lube. You need some antifreeze no matter what the temperature range. I run a minimum 25% mixture since it rarely hits freezing but it hits 105F ambient around here pretty often. It's less than the 50-50 factory mix for better heat transfer but enough to ensure long water pump life.
BuickV6 astonmtb's article
Sep 3, 2015 at 17:16
Sep 3, 2015
Hardcore German Tech(no?) - Eurobike 2015
You are SEVERELY confused on that abomination of physics you posted.
The caliper temps roughly reflect the fluid temp inside. The fluid typically runs a little hotter than the caliper. The fluid is heated from the piston. The piston is heated by the pads. The calipers receive a little direct heat from the rotor and pads in the pocket area.
Don't worry about specific heat. Don't even try to understand it. Just understand the fluid eventually receives heat from the piston and the fluid heats the caliper body to near the same temp as the fluid itself.
A bikes brake fluid most definitely can get as hot as a cars fluid. In fact, my bikes brakes run hotter than my cars front brakes during normal use, both rotor and caliper temps. They're actually surprisingly close to one another in temp. The difference is the bike's brakes cool down much quicker than the car's brakes. A downhill run has my calipers around 320F and rotors up to 700F. I would not want water in this system. I prefer my mineral oil with a boiling point higher than 500F.
BuickV6 astonmtb's article
Sep 3, 2015 at 16:59
Sep 3, 2015
Hardcore German Tech(no?) - Eurobike 2015
Pads to piston to fluid to caliper with some transfer in the pocket area from rotor to caliper.
BuickV6 mikekazimer's article
Jan 19, 2015 at 22:40
Jan 19, 2015
Shimano Zee Brakes - Review
Huh? The fins are part of the pads. The backing plate is extended upwards, terminating in the fins. In just two to three moderately hard stops from 20 mph, the fins hit 300F or more. They definitely get heat out of the pads and into the ambient air. Couple that with ceramic pistons and the fluid stays very close to ambient. With its 536F boiling point and the heat blocking/dissipation, fluid boiling and the resulting brake failure should be practically non existent with ZEEs.
Obviously keeping the pads cool via the fins reduces the most common fade, pad fade. As a bonus the pads should last longer if they are regularly pushed hard and heated up. Generally a pad can wear quicker if it's always too cool and doesn't lay down a transfer layer on the rotor but that's rarely the case. More common is excessive wear from excessive heat. In this case, keeping the pads cooler can reduce wear. I'm boring myself so I will go now.
BuickV6 mikekazimer's article
Jan 19, 2015 at 21:36
Jan 19, 2015
Shimano Zee Brakes - Review
They don't "let air in". Every symptom you described is related to a bad bleed. It reminds me of what happened when I tried to bleed without pushing the pistons all the way in with the bleed block when I was being lazy.
It doesn't matter how many times you "had" to bleed them because they were never done right. When I begin having those sorts of repeating issues I step back and try to figure out what I'm doing wrong because it's probably human error on my part.
As I've stated before the factory bleed on the ZEEs sucks. It's good enough that some don't recognize they need a bleed so they trash the brake on the internet for an inconsistent bite point or excessive travel.
I know it's easier to leak air than fluid but don't you think that if these brakes let air in so easy even though they're not under vacuum, they might possibly leak fluid when the brakes are applied and the lines are under a couple hundred psi?
Changing how they feel part of the way through the run can be the friction coefficient changing as the pads heat up. It can be from a master cylinder that's overfilled from someone trying the very bad method and bandaid gimmick of "resetting" the pistons and topping off the fluid.
I guess it really gets under my skin when people don't understand something so they blame the product and never doubt their own knowledge and skills.
BuickV6 mikekazimer's article
Jan 19, 2015 at 18:53
Jan 19, 2015
Shimano Zee Brakes - Review
So many confused people here.
Greater pad area does not affect power. It gives longer pad life.
4 pistons do not inherently have more power than 2 pistons. Piston area is what matters. If the master cylinder piston remains a constant and a 4 piston caliper with 4 smaller pistons has the same area as a caliper with 2 larger Pistons, power will be the same. Usually a 4 piston caliper has more piston area thus more power.
Different sized Pistons are not used for better modulation in a 4 pot setup. The trailing piston will be larger for one reason..... For more even pad wear. Different sizes pistons have nothing to do with modulation.
The Zee brakes do have considerably more power than XTs. Take a look at piston area between the two and they share the same sized master and you have your proof. XT, XTR, SLX, and Deore all have the same power. Only the Zee and Saint brakes have more power than the rest. The only variable is the lever.
Rotor size, pad type, and rider weight should always be mentioned when comparing brakes but somehow the most important information is usually left out.
EVERY Zee brake I've used or installed has needed a bleed. That's only 4 with two of them on my personal bike but still..... I bought my front and rear separately from different vendors and my friend's ZEEs were from yet another vendor. We had the usual inconsistent bite point and feel. The culprit was a bad factory bleed but not so bad it was immediately obvious. The brakes are amazingly consistent now on both bikes.
Shimano mineral oil is NOT expensive. It's $20 for 1L. This is enough for one person for a lifetime.
On the subject, Shimano mineral oil has a boiling point of 536F, beating out even DOT 5.1 minimum spec (518F) and destroying DOT III and DOT IV.
