Cascade Components Announces Specialized Enduro and Norco Sight Links

 Can someone expand on the existing issues with the Norco Sight? I've read all the reviews and watched the videos....currently have a frame headed my way in a few weeks (hopefully).

Also, does this link work on the 29 and 27.5 Sight?

 I don't fully get it. To me, this sort of tweak made sense for a bike like the V1 Sentinel, which was pretty unique in geometry when it came out. Buying that bike for geometry alone made sense at the time, but people might be looking for improvements in rear suspension kinematics.

Now, there are so many bikes with similar geometry and travel, the Sight being one example (as well as several other bikes that have Cascade links available). Why buy a Sight if you're not into the rear suspension layout when you can get another very similar bike that checks the boxes from stock? If you're going to change such a fundamental aspect of the frame design, to me that suggests you bought the wrong bike.

 @deserat: the Sight is fine. Honestly unless you’re sending it really big, it’s a non issue. I have bottomed it out on big drops but it is very muted by the X2 (that Kazimer mentioned in the review wondering if it would be a better shock for the frame than the Deluxe). Mine is the C2 Shimano build 29er.

The Ride Aligned app suggested 237 psi and no volume spacers but I put one spacer in and lowered the psi to right around 195-200 and it’s been great, really matches the 36 Grip2 in every way.

I might look at the CC link down the road, but I don’t see any want or need for it at this point.

 @DMal: It's a money grab. The v1 sentinel did need a change to make it better as far as being more progressive. I put one on mine and it did make it better.

 @DMal: what bikes are you thinking of that have the same geo as a sight 25ish percent progression and a reasonably light frame. I'm not thinking of any off the top of my head.

 @DMal:
availability, price, individual preferences...
Moreover, when you progress, you ride faster and more agressively, You may not want to change your bike or even frame, and a bit of progressivity may be a key to make your bike suit you better.

When you change frame.. you know different headsets, bb, steerer tube lenght, seatpost diameter, different shock.. come on.

Bike, is an art of compromises. Just somethimes it's biggest compromise is kinematics.

 @DMal: So my options after I purchase the wrong bike are A: Purchase $5,000 new bike plus any upgrades I usually do to new bikes. B: Purchase $300 linkage from a cool made in USA brand that makes my bike more personalized.
Man that is a tough choice..........
Also I think you underestimate the people out there who just want to purchase everything out there for their bike. These people are constantly upgrading just for the sake of fiddling with their bike and trying something new. They probably get a new bike every 2-3 years and tinker with it every season.

 @hmstuna: Sentinel v2 isn't far off.

 @floor-tom: True I had forgotten about the sentinel. Still no size specific chainstay length, so if your a small you might have an issue, also slightly less progression compared the cascade link. I would think that it is enough different that for some riders the Norco + link may make more sense.

 I think the way to upgrade the sight would have been to make it take a longer stroke shock. I would have bought one, but being 200+ lbs means I would max out pressure in the shock.

 @hmstuna: Yep, rode both Sight and Sentinel. Very, very similar bikes, but Sight was what I ended up deciding on. Guess the Sentinel did feel somewhat more progressive, and I thought it was a bit more efficient pedaling. But, I kind of chalked it up to the variables of demo bikes. Again, Sight was what overall felt better to me specifically.

 I really liked the Sight but want a coil next year, whatever bike I have! Sight was plush with air but easy to go throught the travel....forget it with a coil. I hesited for a couple of weeks because of that and when I decided to go with that frame, it was sold out, too late! Wasn't that sad but now seing this, yeah, I'm really frustrated that I didn't buy it!!! All black frame with purple components and I could even have a purple link, fuck me!!

 @DMal: People invest a lot of money in their bikes. If you're not happy with the way it rides or want just a specific thing to be different (rear suspension progression) it makes sense to get something like this instead of seeking a different bike with its own set of unpredictable issues.

This product is aimed at people who hang on to bikes for a long time and try to make them perfect. I don't own bikes long enough to justify something like this, but I completely get why people would seek custom linkages.

 @lefthandohvhater: When my friend owned an LBS he had one customer that would drop off a frame and a box of parts for him to build up a custom bike at LEAST twice a year, sometimes more. He only put a few hundred miles tops on each bike before selling it. It was crazy. I think he just liked the Insta attention.

 Right! the amount of entitlement here is crazy.

 I’m trying to be silly, these things always end up this way. As a non engineer or machinist I’m fascinated they can do what they do! @map-guy:

 @chileconqueso: Totally! It's all magic to me. All I know is that my link was a game changer and i'm happy for that.

 Got mine in! www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=10101190192801672&set=pcb.1268601186856304

 Your bike is too good to mess with!

 I think so! I’ve not ridden a better one. @unrooted:

 @map-guy:

Oh so you’re aloud to have one but the rest of us are entitled for making the suggestion. yOu’Re mY fAvOuRiTe kINdA pErSon durrr

 No cascade link for your bike? That just means your bike's already perfect.

 @Maverick18T:Lol "allowed" like the Cascade Gods granted me permission to have one!

 I think you pointed something intresting,
It wuold be good to perform tests of bikes (not sure on how to do this), shocks, forks, and this kind of custom links, I am sure we cld learn that marketing is more important than performance.

 Actually, THAT is a part where 3D printing would make sense, give everyone the custom spec link for their bike...

 I have one on my Patrol and I noticed the difference immediately just in my driveway. Actually surprised how different it is. Had to lower air to get it right, but now it's amazing. I also tried a coil and the link is more noticeable.

 First ride dropping Christmas

 You'll be able to put it on when you get a nomad in early 2023

 Thanks for providing your feedback and for letting us use the image! We always love seeing the wide variety of set ups that people come up with. The "elite rear end" Enduros are definitely some of the coolest we've seen roll through. There aren't many reviews for our products out there so little bits like this is all people have to go on really without experiencing it for themselves. With some of the frames we make links for, like the Enduro, we definitely would agree that the link isn't for everyone. If someone doesn't need/want more progression then there's nothing wrong with that. Everyone has their preferences and we're just happy we can provide a tuning path that wasn't widely available for normal riders not that long ago.

 @CascadeComponents: hey guys just wondering about the norco sight link. If it increases the travel to 155 and I'm already on the RS deluxe with a 52.5mm stroke. Is it long enough stroke to get 155mm of travel or do I need a different shock?

 @doctorfuzzz: No need for a different shock. The listed travel is with the stock shock size.

 Did you have any clearance issues with the WRP Mullet Yoke?
especially between chainstays and bottombracket/Mainframe?

im thinking of mulleting my enduro too, but i am concerned this might become some kind of mud-grinder in there as there is already lots of dirt piling up there when im riding in the wet...

greetings from germany

 Just swap the stock one back if you break the frame. Not sure they’d ever know.

 They've had issues? I also have an enduro, but hadn't heard about this. I did actually crack my frame the first month I owned it. Granted, I plowed it directly into a very pointy rock.

 If the frames already have cracking issues at that main link, maybe these would make it better somehow? Or not matter?

 @grnmachine02: I personally have had no issues with my frame and absolutely love the bike. I have just heard about it in forums and also a few fairly relevant mountain bike youtubers have cracked theirs (I know these are not the best indicators of a frames durability).

 @Pilsner-power: Interesting

One thing I can tell you, is watch your seat stays. They are in the direct line of fire if you broadside something.

 I believe Transition explicitly said this wouldn't void warranty, but im sure it differs for every company. As others have said, swap the original back on if you need to warranty.

 The only company that’s cool with you changing the rocker or other parts of the linkage is Santa Cruz. Their lifetime warranty won’t be affected unless the changes you made directly caused the failure.

 @BenTheSwabian: This is false. Modifying the linkage will void Santa Cruz's warranty.

 @toomuchgrease: Inofficially, it apparently doesn't. At least thats what @CascadeComponents Pinkbike account has been commenting under other articles about their linkages for Santa Cruz bikes. Apparently they were told by Santa that an aftermarket linkage would only void your warranty if frame damage is evidently caused by the linkage specifically.

 I am genuinely curious if it is possible to increase progressivity while decreasing the leverage ratio. I just love bacon and booze too much to lose that last 10kg off my body.

 I agree that it makes much more sense for coil. But to be fair the leverage curves at sag are very similar and this is probably better for someone who rides the bejeezus out of their bike. I for one have a hard time imagining that I would use 180mm of travel on my local trails.

 @Unrealityshow: Yes. The product increases progressivity while simultaneously increasing and decreasing the leverage rate depending on where you are at in the travel. All other factors must remain the same; air pressure, volume spacers.

 @Unrealityshow: the leverage ratio (average) is set by the travel and the shock stroke length. Without changing the shock its not really possible to decrease the average leverage ratio.

 Doctor told me I need to hold back on the cholesterol.

 I emailed them asking for more travel and a slightly higher BB. They said it wasn't currently on the short list. Maybe it will get there??

 @notenduro: Maybe Norco already nailed the Optic’s link?

 @notenduro: if the sight link sells well I'd wager the optics comes out.

 THIS

 Make the Enduro even more enduro!

 While some bikes just simply miss the mark, its worth keeping in mind that companies design bikes for the widest audience. Cascade only needs to please a subset of folks.

 Everything is a compromise. Personally I don't think I'd want this enduro link...too much leverage in the beginning of the stroke. Going to have to add air pressure or run a stiffer spring, and then why do you want a higher final ratio when you're doing that?

 @getsomesy: What you're describing is a shock packed full of volume spacers not a progressive linkage.

 @getsomesy: well I had an Sb6 and now an sb165 and the rear end feels better on the sb165, sb6 is super linear and had shit traction on loose rocks so maybe you need to rethink that statement, there is no use being able to apply more force to the ground if your bike is near the top of its travel and skipping along the surface, more sag meeans more negative travel aka wheel stays in contact with the ground for longer. I agrre there is a balance to be had and that overly progressive can result in harsher mid size hits but overpy linear is just as shit, my sb6 had terrible rear suspension, coil helped it a lot but it's still a bike that sits too high in it's travel threatening to throw you over the bars whilst simultaneously the rear tyre is skiing across the ground. Sb165 is a much better bike in every way and yet it's aroumd 3 x as progressive as the sb6.

 @getsomesy: That is so wrong it is painful to read. There is no such thing as a progressive damping rate, and you shouldn’t be using damping to try to firm up a specific portion of travel. Compression damping isn’t position sensitive, so you should only use it for changes you want to apply everywhere in the travel.

Every bike has to have progression baked into the suspension somewhere if you don’t want to be stuck choosing between rock hard suspension and bottoming out constantly. If you opt for a linear suspension design, you have to compensate with a progressive shock, which has the same curve regardless of what bike it’s on. If you run a linear shock, you have to build the progression into the frame, but you have a lot more control over where and how the progression occurs. Plenty of bikes with a lot of progression have quite a bit of support through the midstroke.

Progressive suspension only equates to wallowing if you try to increase progression to fix the wrong problems. If stiction is a concern, either run a larger negative chamber and better seals or run a coil on a more progressive frame. If you want to run a more linear shock or bottom out your current shock all the time, increasing frame progression is the solution.

The bike industry may see every problem as a nail and progression as a hammer, but that doesn’t mean all of the people looking for more progression are sheep. Plenty of them understand suspension well enough to make informed choices about the best way to make their setups sufficiently progressive.

 @getsomesy: Very few shocks have hydraulic bottom out controls, so you’re citing the exception to disprove the rule. The only sense in which damping is progressive results from the nitrogen pressure, as you pointed out. Since nitrogen pressure is fixed regardless of the shock’s spring curve, the damping isn’t made more progressive to match a more progressive spring. The damping adjustments aren’t localized to a fixed shaft position, which is what I’ve always seen described as position sensitive. If you increase low speed compression, you are increasing it for all shaft positions. Propedal and the like don’t just add damping around the sag point because they can’t, at least not without much different damping circuits than they currently use. If you are at the bottom of a compression and pump down with propedal on, you will still be pushing against the pedal platform, even though you are deep in the travel.

 @getsomesy: Well Chris porter would disagree with you on having dampers that blow off, aka poppet valve shocks such as the X2 series. The shock itself is not position sensitive it's the leverage ratio of the frame that changes the force and velocity the damper is moving so yes as the bike gets deeper in the travel the shaft speed is higher and subsequent damping will proportionally increase. Damping is all based on the viscosity of the fluid and piston orifices resisting shaft speed, where the shaft position is in terms of the shock itself is irellevant, that's all dictated by the kinematics. Additionally a progressive bike offers more traction, better small bump and better bottom out resistance for jumps, depending on the shape of the curve it cpuld be more or less harsh on mid size hits than a linear setup as the midstroke support of a linear setup is higher therefore offering more resistance through said midstroke and harsher square edge hits. Thr only place you can say progressive kinematics are harsher one hundred percent of the timr is in the last part of travel, but then that is thr price you pay for bottom out resistance..

 @Helium89: @Danzzz88: almost any shock including shims, various base valve designs can be valved to have sort of multi stage valving with an initial threshhold that holds up to the likes of gentle pedaling then blows open then had lesser resistance till oil flow rate catches up and provides significant pressure on the high speed stack or valving.

I’m not totally against progressive designs, especially on long travel bikes with a fairly flat curve and short steep bit of ramp at the end. Also straight lines with a low degree of progressivity are not too difficult, there are lots of progressive curves where the beginning and mid are very soft, which makes it difficult to generate support in the early part and mid part of the travel and yet have the later portion of the travel not feel difficult to access or harsh.

Its really hard to make a very progressive bike feel initially supportive to resist squishing under compressive forces like pumping, but still gobble boulders and gnarly muddy roots. On the other hand if you want a linear linkage bike to feel progressive Or supportive deep in the travel there wre a number of easily achievable ways to do that, such as increasing ifp pressure, decreasing ifp volume, increasing high speed compression damping, using a longer bottom out bumper, using a progressive spring, using a shock with hydraulic bottom out, running a higher spring rate with less preload and low speed compression damping. Valving a progressive bike to have good initial support with a smooth break into bunp damping almost requires some funky threshold valving, spv, propedal type of setup, which sometimes seems to easily lack midstroke support.

 @getsomesy: Most bikes aren't progressive to the degree you are saying though and likewise most bikes aren't linear to that degree either, yea the Capra is pretty damn progressive and my sb6 was super linear but they are outliers. The way you put it is assuming progressive bikes sag in the middle of their travel, they don't, yea they are deeper in the midstroke relative to wheel travel than linear bikes but it's not so much that they basically are absorbing square edges in the last 30% of wheel travel. Obviously there is always going to be extreme examples of either linear or progressive bikes that perform poorly but I can say the kinematics of the sb165 are much better than the sb6, you want enough sag to prevent skipping on loose terrain, create traction and keep the head angle nice and slack. I was super disappointed when I bought my previous sb6 after I tried a friends Capra, granted the sb6 was slightly better in square edge hits but it was less supple everywhere else and felt like a trail bike rather than a dh bike in comparison to the YT.

 Yeah because it´s looks it´s supposed to improve. Jeeez...

 @Mondbiker: If you think you improve your bike with this buy it man this is your money you waste not mine! Maybe you just dont know how to tune your suspension ...

 Not if you put your old link back on the bike I guess

 Yes a megneg would be good and a lot cheaper! But I wanted coil so that would be good if someone want to do this and is not 130lbs lol

 Also does more progression not equal to better.

 @fred-frod:
So True!

 @cky78 : its a tuning tool. With more progression you can setup with lower air pressure or move to a coil to gain traction over high speed choppy roots and rocks while still maintain bottom out control. Its a good combo for people that ride faster than average, bike park, or fast trails like in Pisgah NC. Cheaper than getting a new bike or frame.

 @bmxRC009: except that’s not what this link, or most of their links do. Look at the curve. It’s starting off much softer which requires going up in spring rate (or air pressure) to maintain your previous sag. Add a little at the end of the curve and there’s your new curve.

 @DHhack: As we know, every bike is a compromise and maybe a new link moves the bike from good to great for a particular rider. It doesn't have to work for everyone in every situation. Can't we just be happy that there is a small company doing something that some people find useful to them? I am so stoked that there are boutique brands producing high quality products for those that want them. Perhaps we don't need 72 different types of toothpaste but I'd say more choice is a good thing in this case.

 @twonsarelli: Agreed, and well said. But, does the toothpaste need to cost $1,000? haha

 @cky78: haha well I hope not.. or at least, I won't pay $1000 for toothpaste. As for the links, I would definitely consider one if I were in the market for this type of change and had a bike for which the link was available. A few hundred dollars might seem like a lot of cash for one component, especially one that replaces a piece of the bike that is already functioning as intended. In fact, some of these links cost more than the first mountain bike I ever bought. I am just glad that someone is fulfilling their dream and exercising their talents while also providing a custom feel for the right customer. I would be so stoked if I was running a small component manufacturer. I am sure I'm not the only one with those types of daydreams.

 @twonsarelli: Again, well said. I guess I was getting hung up in the numbers. Typical of, and for me. Have a super day!

 These links are pushing the leverage ratios up to the same numbers that remind me of what some folks were doing in late 90's and early 2000's. That did not equate to 'better' performance back then and I struggle to see how that would improve things now. Higher spring rates, increased demand on seals due to higher shaft velocities, and higher damping/valving demands....

 @DMal: it's funny how people always joke about ridiculous pricing in mtb, but then something like this comes out and immediately people are screaming "take my money! I want the new shiny!" No wonder prices are so ridiculous lol. Unless you're an elite rider, I really question if the vast majority of pinkbike riders could even tell the difference in a blind test. I'd bet not, but that doesn't stop anyone from telling themselves it's the greatest upgrade ever lol.

 @DylanH93: If you're bottoming out your suspension all the time and you get a link with significantly more progression, I think you'd notice. At the end of the day, we're adults playing with toys. Sometimes we can add cool parts to our toys, but we don't have to. Like others here have said, it's cool to live at a time when anyone with the internet and a credit card has the option to experiment with their toys.

 @DylanH93: Couldn't agree more.

 @Inclag:

Exactly

 @twonsarelli: it’s a big deal if you’re on a coil shock. It’s a new coil. People that buy this link and run coil are probably on a $130 Fox one because it’s orange. Are those back in stock yet?

And that’s not even taking into account that your Horst link is going to probably bob more while pedaling.

 @getsomesy: The issue is I have had to run less sag than suggested on some frames even with a full stack of tokens (2018 Vitus Sommet and 2017 Smuggler) and still bottomed out with a clap on trail rides. I am 170 pounds so not even a heavy person. A more progressive suspension design would solve this issue which is why I am now on a Tranny Patrol.

 @DHhack: I can understand the concern but in search of the optimum feel from their bike, some people will think it is worth it. My primary point is that I’m glad this exists, even if I don’t want or need one. After all, some riders spend $2k on carbon wheels to do the same job as a $600 set of alloys. I bet this link is likely to have a more pronounced difference for more people than the carbon wheels would have.

 @twonsarelli: it’s also a problem if you weigh more or if you run a lot of air pressure. This link could put you over max pressure. It’s all things to take into account that they mostly don’t do a very good job of telling people. Personally I buy bikes that have the progression I want, more for dh and less for trail.

 @DHhack: yeah i think a lot of us are in that camp. buy the bike that will have the best downhill performance because we think that part is more fun. then you just make the most of the climbing abilities of the bike and go from there. a couple extra minutes on the 10 mile approach is nothing compared to how much more fun the descent will be on a bike that really wants to rip

 @bmxRC009: sounds like you needed a better shock, or at least a shock with some more compression damping built in. high speed compression control, bottom out control will help with this.

Just curious, have you tried running the frame without any volume spacers and the correct sag?

sometimes people mistake sag, either by irregular body position or poor measuring...

 @Inclag: Well, fortunately, wheels go bigger, geo got better and comparing modern suspension with the stuff of the early 2000s is like the difference between a ford model T and a 911. Even with heavy riders, if the frame maker did not f*** up proper it is going to work out fine and work a treat as long as you go with a low overall compression ratio.

 @DylanH93: 6’4” 225lbs and just had a DHX2 with a 600# coil explode oil all over my ankles landing a drop for the second time in as many months. I’ll take more progression for $350 Alex.

 @Blownoutrides:

Did you have high and low speed compression turned up most of the way?

The shock blowing up is a problem with the quality of the shock, not that the shock isnt progressive enough...

 @getsomesy: A lack of mechanical spring support (air of coil) will force you to rely on the damper more for support. Yeah obviously you can increase the spring rate but then its gonna feel like crap on small bumps. A progressive frame design essentially acts as if the spring rate is increasing as you get deeper in the travel so you dont have to sacrifice by moving to a heavier spring

 @bmxRC009: progressive linkages have less mechanical spring support in the beginning of the travel, which owuld require more damping to achieve the same amount of support with the same sag. progressive linkages also feel harsher whilst absorbing deep impacts, so it's not neccisarilly true that a progressive linkage will be a cure to "feeling like crap"

 @getsomesy: Think of it this way. The energy from an impact is absorbed through two main channels: the spring and the damping. Part of the the philosophy behind a more progressive linkage is that the bottom out resistance can be increased by increasing the amount of energy that goes into the spring and leaving the amount of energy that goes into the damper the same. Ultimately it's the amount of energy going through the damper that will lead failure and not the particular number of clicks that the shock is set to. For example, and this is a hypothetical extreme, if you have the damping maxed out but the shock speed is very slow it won't put that much stress on the damping circuit. On the other hand, if you are running unnecessarily high damping and the shock speed isn't that low it will increase the stress on the damping circuit and result in more frequent service being needed.

On a different note, progressive linkages definitely don't feel harsher absorbing deep impacts. Yes the spring is effectively stiffer deeper in travel, but you're not slapping bottom, which is the harshest thing there is, and those are also impacts where you generally want that added support anyway. Riders that are less aggressive will find that the links make it too hard for them to use full travel unless they run excessive amounts of sag, but that is not the group the links are geared towards. Anyone who is thinking about volume spacers, progressive springs, or just over-springing their bike will find the benefits of a progressive link to be very noticeable and with really no downside because the issue they need to solve is not using full travel nearly as frequently.

 @CascadeComponents: Was about to say "this guys gets it" but this guy designed it. Thanks for the response and the clarification, I thought I was going crazy reading some of these responses.

 @CascadeComponents: I appreciate your thoughtful reply.

You said "Ultimately it's the amount of energy going through the damper that will lead failure"
I would argue that plenty of dampers have been made that can stand up to these forces for a year or more of hard use with rather linear linkages and not fail. if anything dampers should require occasional oil change, air seals if youve got em, and check pressure and change du bushings; but if the shocks are blowing up its cause they are weak sauce, defective or misused.

One of the problems i have with Progressive linkages with no alternate linear setting is it's really really hard if not impossible to make a bike feel more linear than the linkage rate would suggest. unlike the inverse where its very easy to make a linear setup feel more progressive.

Progressive linkages also return more force in rebound, although the shock ratio is near 2.2:1 as it returns from full compression many rebound damping circuits struggle to sufficiently dampen the highly compressed spring that has so much more energy stored in it. So when you crank the rebound damping up enough to control deep rebound from a hard landing, it often has a tenancy to return with inadiquate speed near full extension... in my experience. If you use a lower more linear spring/ leverage rate and rely more on compression damping you can manage more force through a sturdy damper and the bike will exibit a more controlable and desirable rebound characteristic, improving traction. Also you can turn down the resistance of a damper reliant suspension setup to deal with greasy chundery rooty square edge condition, unlike with a progressive leverage rate. Then you can just deal with bottom out characteristics independatly with bumpers, HBO, ifp pressure, spring rate, progressive springs, or a 2 position shock mount that offers progressive setting.

you said " Yes the spring is effectively stiffer deeper in travel, but you're not slapping bottom, which is the harshest thing there is, and those are also impacts where you generally want that added support anyway."
I disagree. Most of the shock transmitted to me while riding a properly set up progressive bike comes in the 50-90% compression range. Basically everyone besides like slopestyle riders and ppl who only ride groomer jump trails will experience most of the shock compressions and cumulation of compression forces and average depth of compression to occur at under 90% compression. If those impacts suffered less resistance from the collective rear suspension then less overall force would be felt by the rider.

A well setup bike will gently produce a slight but perceivable thud at full hard bottom out, maybe once a weekend when overshooting or hitting something harder than you would generally intend to. If your bikes bottom out is undetectible even when you go too big, and you are infact not using all of your travel, but you are feeling harsh impacts that slow you donw deep in the travel, then your bikes rear suspension setup is too resistant to using the later stroke and failing to utilize your full suspensions ability to carry speed horizontally through rough surfaces.

 @getsomesy: Yeah you definitely can't make a progressive linkage feel more linear, but you also can never get a linear set up to actually feel like a progressive one. I tried that for years and it always ended in one compromise or another. Anyone who wants a linear bike should stick with a linear bike, however I would say anyone who is searching for support with a linear bike shouldn't write off a more progressive set up that they haven't tried. Also their preferences for a linear bike do not mean that others who want a more progressive set up are misguided or wrong. Give me a linear bike and I can bottom it out in the parking lot with what would be considered good settings. That never works well on the trail and nor does the remedy to that issue.

Lots of ramp at the shock will have way different rebound speeds at top and bottom of travel compared to a progressive link. In fact if you look at rebound speed at the wheel, the added progression actually helps even out that speed between top and bottom of travel, because at top of travel the wheel will be moving more per mm that the shock moves compared to bottom of travel. That combined with not having a wall of force at the bottom of travel keeps rebound way more consistent. You definitely don't have to crank the damping to get it to feel good. That's not speculation. That's just the physics behind how the shock actually responds.

The issue with relying on compression damping to keep a bike from blowing through its travel is that it inhibits the bike's ability to respond to high frequency impacts. There is not magic compression tune that will allow it to be active over small bumps while simultaneously keeping the bike higher in it's travel. High frequency impacts are really what will kill your hands by the way. Just think Whistler braking bumps.

On to travel range. If you look at data, your rear suspension spends more time high in its travel than you think. A good visual representation of this can be seen in this video www.youtube.com/watch?v=AymT2YNTTbo&feature=emb_title. I would say if you are having an issue with being at 50-90% travel consistently then there is too much sag and/or too slow of rebound. I suppose another issue could be riding with too much weight over the rear, but that's not really suspension related.

 @getsomesy: I don't know about any of this, but can confirm that the extra 5mm of chainstay this link gives a Bronson.3 does aid flat cornering. It's more front wheel weight with no change in body position. Low-speed bumpjumping is more difficult, but nothing's free. You should be pleased to hear that my reach:rear center ratio is just below 1.

Cascade tried to dissuade me from their link based on my claims about pedal strikes in rocky terrain, but I got it anyway. Strikes are no worse. Much fluffier in chunk & returns preloaded energy better. Now I just have to figure out if the 5psi reduction in stock shock vs the 25psi increase in DPX2 to hit sag is appropriate, or something went wrong with DPX servicing....

 @ceecee: yes extra psi to get the same sag is normal after installing a cascade link

 @DHhack: okay...better double check stock shock sag...thanks

 To follow up on this, I bought the Sight link and it completely transformed the way the bike rides for the better. It has pop where it used to be gushy, a platform to push off of where it used to feel vague, and real bottom-out resistance where it used to clang off the bottom into my ankles. I am a believer and feel it was worth every expensive penny.

 That's why I'm waiting for the long travel (should be in a couple of days) but I must say the druid would be perfect for me...I like everything about it but would like more like 140-150mm for those flat landing!

 Has to be a no brainer. Big miss from Nukeproof not to add an MX option. If Spec can do it with the evo, they can all do it.

 @YemBot I'm curious too. I found the press release of the SB130 link kind of confusing. Just didn't make sense what it was actually doing. I think the stock link with the DPX2 is great, especially now that /i know my shock pump is off by 15psi, but if you wanted to run a coil or X2 that the link might make more sense.

 There's already a process 153 link. They told me they do not intend to make one for the 134.

 @AlexBreck: Ya I should have been specific, a Process 134 link would have been nice.

 Would be interesting to try on a 134 my megneg can is full of tokens.

 @JockoJones: agreed that the 134 is a prime candidate, especially since they did the 153 and the 134 could really benefit from a different leverage curve. when i reached out a few months ago, they said they had no plans for it but maybe in the "distant future." who knows what that means. in the meantime, i'm going with a custom coil from avalanche to compensate.

 @AlexBreck: what shock are you using and what is your opinions on how the coil works on yr 134?

 @JockoJones: I don't have it yet. It's a bomber cr custom tuned by avalanche with a bumper system because the bike isn't quite progressive enough. Should be here in the next few weeks.

 You can't possibly want that bike to be less progressive.

 @TheBearDen: It's not so much about progressivity as is about leverage ratio. Like RAAW did with their two links.

 @DMal: you speak of heresy! More progression is always the way. You can never have enough of it, that's the law.