Video: New How to Fix and Adventure Tips Series - The Trail Doctor

 All the time, usually thats just bad patch application (mostly bad sanding of the tube).
Anyway it works better with the plastic, so it wont stick to the tire as well.

 the most common error is that the goop is all wet when putting on the rubber.. we're still talking about bikes right??

 yep I normally leave the plastic cover on as well, but I knew if I didnt mention that you "should" remove it someone would send me death threats or something similar. Anyhow, the risk of course is that the plastic sheet doesn't stretch as much as a tube or patch does when it is inflated so restricts the expansion of the patch or even starts to pull it off (if you didnt stick it very well). At least thats the theory behind removing it. But you got it, it aint a deal breaker!

 For the wet "goop" problem: that's because it's not glue, but vulcanizer that softens the rubber, so it will stick better, you should leave it until it's has a matte-ish color.

 Have a ganders at my Trail Ninja episodes too (18th comes out next week.. watch this space) and you'll see my incessant, some say irritating, need for humour in our beloved sport. Glad it works for you. I am kind of proud to be a Benny Hill-alike in some perverse way.

 you need to do an old timey black n white video thats sped up with that quick piano music as a soundtrack.

 Great point there @raschaa, and you're right. It takes more care to start the bead placement right where the valve position is for sure. There are also few more pointers I could have included in the video (eg, talking about snakebites, turning off a rear mech clutch to remove the wheel, etc) but then the video would have been longer than the perfect 2.5 minutes, which I am told is the cut off point for today's attention-deficit internet viewers ha ha :-)

 totally with you there @cerealkilla, spare tube on every ride. Sometimes though, just sometimes (on those big 7 hour epics) you can puncture more than once in a ride, so knowing how to fix fast and well is essential info. Nut yep, the spare tune should be the first go-to fix for anyone on the trail. Waiting is just wasting ride time.:-)

 You're running your tire pressure to low. Throw a couple extra psi in.

 Run more air pressure or go tubeless.

 Oh I knew I left something out. I an running hans dampfs (the one with the side wall protection) and I've tried running the tire rock solid on psi. But yesterday it happened again. I thought about going tubeless but wasn't sure if that would mean then I'd just burp out air.

 How wide are your rims? Could be an issue, If you run the Hans Dampf, which is a wide tire, on narrow rims you risk rounding their profile and increasing the chance of pinching the side wall down on the rim bead... and pinch flatting like that too.

 I'm running outlaws, not sure on how wide they are.

 Could depend on your tire... Maybe a thicker sidewall could prevent it from pinching? Also since I've gone tubeless, I've never pinch flatted again. I run a trail rim, and I've only burped once (that was the front too). I would highly recommend ditching the tubes.

 Try adding some baby powder in between the tire and tube. It will keep the tube from sticking to the sidewall when the fire pinches on the rim. That or tape your rim with gorilla glue tape, throw some stans in there and run them ghetto tubeless.

 If you ride with your tires hard and still get flats, tubeless is the way to go, but YOU'LL STILL GET SNAKEBITE PUNCTURES, JUST LESS. there is a fine li9ne between basket ball hard and nerf ball soft so you'll need to experiment.

When it comes to repairing tire punctures, you would follow the same instructions as in the video, but you apply the patch to the tire, and use a sealant to be sure that smaller holes ( from thorns and nails ) can be repaired automatically.

I once got a nail in my tire ( left over from trail builders ) and was able to ride to the bottom of the hill and only needed to inject latex sealant to stop the leak.
My advise, try different tires, and PSI for your tires at your local riding spot, once you've found something that is stable, stick with that configuration. DONT GIVE UP! Tubeless does require that you find your zen place, and not get to frustrated if it doesn't work the first time. \

BTW, you will need to check your pressure EVERY TIME YOU RIDE, UST, TNT, and TUBELESS READY, generally lose air over even a short while.

 I too keep getting pinch flats pretty much every other ride. Always on the rear tire. Im running a Kenda Nevegal on DT Swiss M1800 rims with about 40PSI in the tube. My trails are pretty rocky and I don't know what else to do. Afraid going tubeless will be too expensive for a broke college student at this time.

 Nah, I'll admit tubeless is initially expensive, but after that it really pays for itself. I've saved so much money just from not having to buy so many tubes so often. I've had the same Stan's fluid in my wheels for most of the season, with almost no worries. If you do it right, it pays off big time...

 Thanks for all the advice guys! Who says the pb community can't have a informative conversation =)

 Thanks for the props on the photos, appreciated. This series will vary in subject matter as I dip into my worldly-wise 30+ years of riding fat tires around the world.. my aim is to divulge some lesser known tech tips and simplify the how-to for the everyday rider. There'll be some adventure tips coming next...

 looking forward to it!

 Yeah no disrespect Dan, not everyone knows these little tricks and tips