Video: ENVE M-Series

 2k is what i paid for my truck.. i couldnt even imagine shelling out 1k for rims, let alone 1k PER.

 How can a set of rims cost more than a top of the line DH race fork? hell i could get a fork and a new shock for almost the same price!

 Man I used to think that... now somehow my bike is worth way more than my car...

 the series goes by the rate at which you are going "downhill"
from the m50 to cross country to the m90 being the downhill rim. YES they do cost and arm and a leg and yes they are a bitch to build

 Yes, they are TOO expensive, Yes you have to remove the tire and rim tape to true them or replace a spoke etc (not that I've had to yet). But I've never had as dramatic improvement in performance from any bike part, ever. I put a set of their 26am on my 2010 Spec. Enduro Comp last year. It immediately became as good or better climber than the several carbon framed FS 29ers I've gotten to take on multiple day test rides/demos. I am a lifelong rider who is 41 years old, they really do make any mtb into an entirely new beast. My Enve wheel set is so nice I don't even care about 26,27.5, or 29 debate, cause my bike just feels so awesome I'm not worried about what my next bike will be. Just keep checking for a used set in classifieds, etc. I've seen them as low as $1200 for 29"am wheel set. or you can always get into the new Ibis wheels for a lot less, which is what I'll likely end up doing on my next new bike. I have a personal beef with Enve as a company, So I probably won't buy anything from them again, but they do make some damn good wheels.

 You never had as dramatic improvement as by a wheelset? I see no way wheelset to improve my bike more than a fork, brakes, handlebar or a dropper seatpost. It depends on what are you replacing and what are you replacing with. Wheelsets are part of a bike when you can get some compromises (unless you go for a really heavy wheelset) in favor of a better suspension, dropper post or better tyres. Well, if all these components of your bike are top notch then maybe wheelset is the way to go. But I'm pretty sure you can get similar wheelset in terms of weight for half of the price.

 my Taiwanese cahbon rims feel pretty darn good for 160 bucks a pop.. sorry enve too rich for my blood. Awesome video though! Could watch Josh ride all day long!

 @Mentalhead: Since I bought the enduro I've upgraded to XO cranks, Lyrik RC2L fork, Spec Blacklite dropper, Enve bars and stem, and hans dampf tires. I upgraded over a long period of time. dropper post was first, which has been great. Then the XO cranks which gave the bike nice snappy acceleration. I got the Lyrik RC2L as a warranty replacement for the solo air that was OEM, which also has greatly improved damping and tuning options, giving the bike much more control especially at high speed. Next I bought used crank bros carbon bars that were much lighter and a little bit wider(720) than the OEM (680) which gave a more damped, smoother ride. All of these parts made noticeable improvements, but the wheels definitely made the biggest difference both for making hill climbs a LOT easier, wider profile which helped support the tires at lower pressure (@20-26 psi depending on conditions) and being able to blaze downhill without worrying about bending a rear rim. When I got the Enve RSR bar at 740mm the difference wasn't very much, but after adding the Enve stem, they work better together than separately, offering a quiet ride, stiffer and softer at the same timecard to explain. The point I was trying to make was that Enve wheels are almost worth the money. I didn't have to pay full price for all my Enve components. I agree they are too expensive, but if you can afford them they are more than just hype, they make your bike ride better. And FWIW: an upgraded wheel set can make a 30lb 26" bike climb equal to a 27lb 29" Tallboy Ltc. Your forks would have to be total crap (like going from 32mm stanchions, rebound only and qr axle to 36mm stanchions and 20mm axle with good compression and rebound adjustments) to make as big a difference as a great wheel set.

 Well then @mentalhead, you definitely don't have a degree in physics. Wheels are the first thing to change if you want an improvement, believe me. This is even more true for a road/cross/xc bike...

 Sorry for disapointing you, but I upgarded lot of parts of my first xc/trail hardtail bike from lower end components, to mid level and above and I benefit from all of these upgrades, but I mostly did it on my fork upgrade (coil suntour to air rockshox), brakes (mechanical to hydraulic), hadlebar (it gets wider), tyres (much better grip) and I will put my new wheels after all these things. Yes, my Mavic rims will bent much harder, and I shaved some grams (not so many) and we all know that rotational weight is much more noticeable (I know there is something called Physics, even if I wasn't the biggest fan of it), but I would ever go for suspension or braking upgarde, before I look at my wheels. Not to mention even drivetrain alternatives with the new 1x trend.
I'm not saying wheels are not a good improvement. For me personally they are not on top of the list. And for the price of a new frameset I wouldn't even say the "wheelset" word on public.

 ^if you buy a walmart bike, everything is an upgrade!! haha

 I didn't buy a walmart bike. My bike was Scott hardtail bike, which I don't think you can find in your walmart stores. But it was lower end spec bike, yes. And I made it mid to high end bike. Similar upgrade steps for everything including wheelsets. And wheelsets was definitely not the most noticeable change on the bike. I gave this example, because it is a perfect example for bike upgardes - starting from the lower end components, where you can feel the biggest difference when upgarding. It's somehow obvious, don't you think?

 www.pinkbike.com/photo/10808877

Just had to do it.

 Bummer, Someguy101! Did you know the second it happened was there a loud pop or anything? were you running very low pressure? I am always riding a fine line between low pressure tubeless and having enough PSI to prevent pinch flats or cracking the bead of the rim. I'd like to try running below 20psi on certain trails, but I'm too worried to run less than 21 psi. I really like the design of the derby/isis rims bead profile because of the extra protection.

 It isn't my photo. You should ask the owner. He said it was under warranty and will be replaced though. So it's not the end of the world but still, for $3000 you would expect wheels that are super tough. If I was to build me a dream rig I would probably go for alloys as they are cheaper and you don't have to check them for damage every time you do something silly. Perfect for a clumsy rider like myself.

 guys, all that matters are badass looking stickers. who cares about performance now a days right...? :/

 It coasts 70 bucks per click.

 i can afford the sticker kit...maybe.

 I'm keen with their enduro specific socks.

 but wait theirs more! If you crack it its only $600 to replace it!

 There's

 Cracked one of mine,free replacement.

 Yeah? Strange... I've replaced multiple DH hoops with ENVE and haven't paid a penny more than what I bought them for.

 Yeah? That must be because you're some sort of special carbon engineer boy genius, eh? (Just like everyone else on this site)... And I'm stupid for purchasing my preferred components with my money?

Ride more, bitch less and maybe you would actually ride well enough to break those Deemax wheels in.

But hey... Good luck with all of that carbon hate you've got going on; I hear that only the most brilliant engineers hate on stuff they've never tested... You must be stunningly intelligent.

 That's what I was thinking, the stuff that the guys were doing on the 70's was way more serious than I ever do on my big bike. I don't think I will need the 90's when I win the lottery and definitely buy a set of these.

 The four sizes are actually just different rim widths. The smallest is the same as previous years' XC, the next size is the same as the AM, the next size is a new width for aggressive trail/park/jumping and the largest number is the new DH racing width. I think the narrow DH rims are being phased out. The whole 70/30, 80/20, downhill/uphill ratio nomenclature is just a marketing name instead of inner rim width, which I believe would make more sense, because that's what's been changed on the two widest, beside the decals of course.

 "M" as in Mountain series, I assume

 A guess is that there will be an R series for the next gen road bike rims

 a horse could ring you up hill easier than any carbon rim, and you get way more carbon out of the deal. go with the horse

 $999 for a rim, $3300 for a wheelset
so no

 That's the pricing for this new M series. The old style XC/AM/DH series are listed at retail at less than that on their site now, and unless they continue making those, most companies would sell off old stock to force customers to buy the new product and get stale inventory off their books.

 Oh sorry I misunderstood. Yeah that'd be cool but still how much off will they give, cause even if they gave 50% off the old wheels it would still be around $1500 for a wheelset

 they were called edge for years, then had to change the name of their company for legal reasons, enve was the closest word to their old logo

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