Do you use and understand all of your suspension dials? Are you riding with all of the dials in the middle? What level of adjustment do you truly need? Do you feel that your bike maker's pre-selected tune is good enough to deliver the suspension performance you want? Fair questions all, because most factory suspension tuners - the people who work on a hundred or so bikes each day at an event like Crankworx, will tell you that most riders they come across could achieve a better ride using the factory default settings. I occasionally go online to check my preferred setups against the factory recommended tunes (most brands make them available if you are willing to search long enough) and about fifty percent of the time, my tunes match theirs. I am right and wrong - but which fifty percent?
Top brands work closely with their suspension suppliers to arrive at a base tune for each of their models that matches the style and amplitude that best represents how the bike will be ridden. They use sponsored riders to provide the high range and their demo fleets to provide an average baseline, then tune for the middle ground - which should be pretty darn close to every rider's optimum settings. Considering that, most bikes should ride well as-delivered, providing that the customer knows how to arrive at the proper spring sag and low-speed rebound values - so their fork and shock should not need a separate adjustment for every damping function.
But, we love all those dials. Human DNA is a near-perfect match to that of a chimpanzee and like them, we are notorious knob twisters. A long-time motocross tuner told me once that his suspension had 32 clicks of high and low-speed rebound and a threaded collar with two inches of preload available at the spring - but only one of those adjustments was the correct one. So, give your tuning skills a fair assessment and answer the following question: