Solving the Dropper Post Dilemma
The best dropper post has the longest stroke you can run on your particular frame: The low seat tube height of Transition's size large Sentinel allowed PB's Mike Kazimer to enjoy the benefits of a 170-millimeter RockShox Reverb. Not all of us will be that lucky.
Ask your local mountain bike dealer what length dropper seatposts are available and the answer will most likely be, “125, 150, or 170 millimeters.” With dropper posts, more is always better. If you crave steep, technical descending, you’ll probably want to get as low over the bike as possible. If you’ve purchased a trail bike with rider-forward geometry, you may have noticed that effective seat tube angles that are near or exceed 75 degrees require a longer-stroke post to achieve an optimum pedaling height, while still dropping low enough to be comfortably stowed for the downs. Trouble is, depending on your body or your bike, you may not have the option to choose a longer dropper.
The infamous bent seat tube is popular among frame designers as a means to clear the rear wheel at full compression and to position the middle of the tube to support suspension pivots. Both strategies encroach upon the distance that the seatpost can be inserted into the frame.
What goes up, must come down. The lower section of dropper seatposts must be able to contain the telescoping length of the post, as well as the actuation and sealing bits. So, like the proverbial iceberg, there is always more dropper post lurking below the sliding bits than above – and most of that lower section has to be stowed inside the frame. Some frame designs have S-shaped seat tubes or suspension-pivot ingress that restricts how deep the post can be inserted or, if your frame has a tall seat tube, a long-travel post may still place the saddle above your pedaling height at full insertion with the seal-head slammed against the clamp. You may want that 150-millimeter dropper, but be forced to settle on the 125-millimeter option for reasons beyond your control.
It’s an equation that favors tall riders, for sure, but short people aren’t the only ones who are affected. Medium and large-sized frames are typically spec’ed with 150-millimeter posts (Some large and extra-large sizes come with 170-millimeter models), which often results in a situation where the rider is only five or ten millimeters above his or her comfortable saddle height with the seatpost slammed as low as it can go in the frame. The obvious solution is to downsize to the next smaller post. If it’s a new purchase, most bike dealers will do that for you. If it’s a used bike, it will cost you a lot of money – which begs the question: “Instead of being forced to downsize 20 to 50 millimeters to a shorter-stroke post, wouldn’t it be great if you could simply adjust the stroke of your existing post in small increments and get the maximum drop?”
 | It's difficult to define the right seat tube length and get the right mix between height and lowest position. This is a reason why the Reverb is still so much in use at OEMs. The Reverb has one of the shortest insertion lengths. |
A week's worth of 170 and 150-millimeter Reverb seatposts, all removed from new bikes. North of the Border bike shop replaces the droppers with shorter ones to fit their customers and sells the take-offs for half their MSRP.
My Ibis Mojo 3's 150-millimeter Reverb post is exactly at my ride height when it is pushed as far into the seat tube as it will go (the upper suspension pivot blocks further insertion). The bike arrived with a 150-millimeter stroke Fox Transfer post, but its base was ten millimeters longer and I couldn't ride it.
User adjustable dropper posts seem like a good idea to me, but I don’t manufacture droppers, nor do I design the frames they are intended to fit, so I did some research and asked a handful of component makers who do to weigh in on the subject. To my knowledge, only three dropper post makers offer user-friendly adjustments in some form. 9poin8’s Fall Line dropper is internally adjustable with spacers. Eightpins and BMC have integrated posts (built inside the seat tube) that can be adjusted either for stroke or maximum extension. Integrated posts are included in this discussion because the concept could offer customers both adjustability and longer travel. Here's what I discovered:
9point8 Fall Line
The 9point8’s Fall Line post is designed to be internally adjustable by adding plastic top-out spacers, which are available in 4, 8, and 25-millimeter lengths. The process entails disassembling the seatpost, but the mechanical internals are simple to work on and there is no messy hydraulic fluid to deal with when you crack it open. They offer a detailed instruction video to simplify the process, but if you don’t want to fuss with that, 9point8 offers its droppers with strokes from 75 up to 200 millimeters in 25-millimeter increments. An easy-to-read chart lists both the fixed and telescopic lengths of the Fall Line range, so you can order the longest possible stroke for your particular frame.
![fall line post sizes]()
9point8's chart illustrates how much insertion is required as the stroke of their Fall Line dropper post increases. Blue is minimum insertion, while green would be the adjustment range available if the frame allowed for full insertion. Yellow is the distance from the seatpost clamp to the center of the saddle rails (the adjustable part).
About the Future: Jack Pittens, 9point8 Co-Founder
What are your thoughts about future dropper seatposts being built into the frame?
As with most changes, there will be pros and cons with a frame-integrated dropper post. We believe that there should be an interface standard across as many brand of droppers and frames as possible, and that they should be backward compatible, so that conventional droppers or fixed seat posts can also be used so the consumers have the choice to configure their bikes as they prefer. We generally feel that the benefits of integrating a dropper will be incremental and not revolutionary. For example, if the goal is to have a dropper with a stiffer stanchion tube, the larger diameter desired to achieve this could be accomplished by going to a larger seat tube size (say, 34.9mm) and does not require an integrated post to do this. If the ultimate goal is weight savings, then yes, there are incremental benefits to integrating the dropper.
Is there a need to standardize some basic seat tube diameters and minimum insertion lengths?
One thing everyone would benefit from is published maximum insertion depth for the dropper in the frame for each specific size! This would be so easy to do. It’s just another dimension on the frame geometry drawing. This would complement dropper manufacturers that similarly publish dimension and fit information on their droppers, and it would help the consumer more readily determine what length and stroke can fit their bike. Though not standardization, it would benefit the aftermarket consumer immensely.
In a perfect dream world, we’d love to see all bikes have nice straight uninterrupted seat tubes that extend to the bottom bracket, and do not have water bottle bosses or suspension pivots intruding into the interior, so that the length of dropper uses is not restricted. The reality is that nearly every bike brand has their take on the optimum frame and suspension design and many of these do not play nice with long droppers. Through natural selection, the market will determine how important it is to accommodate longer stroke posts.
| Funny you should mention the adjustability of the posts. I recently built up a new Chromag Surface. The 175mm stroke Fall Line seatpost had too much stroke for me to pedal properly. I opened it up and put in our stroke spacers; I put three, 4mm spacers in to effectively reduce the stroke from 175mm to 163mm. Now I'm at proper pedaling height and I can also have the dropper slammed into the frame. Win-win. |
Presently, 9point8's Fall Line is the only commercially available dropper with an adjustable stroke. Any number or combination of plastic top-out spacers (4mm spacer in this photograph) can be added to fine tune the extended saddle height.
Fall Line Notes:
Positives: Conventional design fits all popular brands. Available in a large number of stroke options. Can be user-adjusted with a low-cost spacer kit. Mechanical operation simplifies disassembly process for garage mechanics.
Negatives: Conventional configuration requires up to 300 millimeters of precise insertion in the frame. Small-diameter stanchion is flexible.
Eightpins Integrated Dropper
The Eightpins dropper offers what may be the most promising solution for the future. The Eightpins dropper is integrated into the frame, so you can’t have one unless your frame is customized to accept the internal mounting, or you purchase a Liteville – they’re the only manufacturer who offers the option at this time.
The mechanically-actuated Eightpins post is inverted, meaning that the larger-diameter section of the post is the sliding part that supports the saddle. The smaller-diameter section of the dropper is anchored inside the frame’s seat tube with a simple through-bolt and, up top, a seal-head replaces the traditional seat post clamp. One of the benefits of this arrangement is that only the first 100 millimeters of the seat tube (where the seal-head is inserted) requires a precise fit. As long as there is sufficient clearance for the Eightpins‘ internals, the rest of the seat tube can be shaped any way the designer wants it.
The mechanically-actuated Eightpins post is inverted, meaning that the larger-diameter section of the post is the sliding part that supports the saddle. The smaller-diameter section of the dropper is anchored inside the frame’s seat tube with a simple through-bolt and, up top, a seal-head replaces the traditional seat post clamp. One of the benefits of this arrangement is that only the first 100 millimeters of the seat tube (where the seal-head is inserted) requires a precise fit. As long as there is sufficient clearance for the Eightpins‘ internals, the rest of the seat tube can be shaped any way the designer wants it.
Eightpins offers its dropper cartridges in four lengths.
Eightpins addresses the adjustability issue with a 4-millimeter bolt located under the seatpost clamp which reduces the height of the post at full extension. The manufacturer installs the longest stroke post that will fit inside the frame, and once the customer has established his or her maximum saddle height, the upper section of the post is cut to the ideal length that will allow it to retract all the way down to the seal-head. The two adjustments ensure that the customer always gets the maximum stroke: the perfect pedaling height and the lowest possible dropped position. Eightpins offers frame makers four stroke-lengths, ranging from 150, to 225 millimeters, so there should be enough wiggle room between them to ensure that every customer can properly ditch the saddle when the moment arrives.
Interview with Eightpins' Andreas Haimberger
As you mentioned before, our system is capable to adjust height and travel separately. Riders benefit from the lowest possible saddle height in dropped position and maximum travel. And the bike maker can sell a bike which can be fully adjusted to the customer without any compromises like the choice of a shorter travel version instead to a longer one to provide more adjustability.
The maximum travel for the system is defined by the seat tube length, the position of the Postpin mounting point, and the needed insertion length of the seat tube in the frame (100 to140mm). This will be optimized for each frame. If a rider needs less seat tube pullout than the available maximum travel in the current frame, travel can be reduced with spacers. Without travel reduction, the seatpost head would bottom out onto the seal.
To provide the maximum travel and adjustability, a straight seat tube is needed. In case of Eightpins, the ID of the seat tube has to be 34.9 mm, and the Postpin mounting standard has to be provided. Our setback version gives the bike makers more opportunities to work around bent seat tubes to reach the goal of clearance for the rear wheel.
Sure it would be possible. It´s just a question of the willingness of the dropper post manufacturer to agree on one standard.
In the case of Eightpins versus a hydraulic dropper post they are not. Our system works mechanically and the parts are more complicated to machine.
What advantages does the Eight Pins design offer in the realm of adjustability to both the rider and to the bike maker?
As you mentioned before, our system is capable to adjust height and travel separately. Riders benefit from the lowest possible saddle height in dropped position and maximum travel. And the bike maker can sell a bike which can be fully adjusted to the customer without any compromises like the choice of a shorter travel version instead to a longer one to provide more adjustability.
The maximum travel for the system is defined by the seat tube length, the position of the Postpin mounting point, and the needed insertion length of the seat tube in the frame (100 to140mm). This will be optimized for each frame. If a rider needs less seat tube pullout than the available maximum travel in the current frame, travel can be reduced with spacers. Without travel reduction, the seatpost head would bottom out onto the seal.
What modifications would bike makers need to do to switch to integrated dropper posts?
To provide the maximum travel and adjustability, a straight seat tube is needed. In case of Eightpins, the ID of the seat tube has to be 34.9 mm, and the Postpin mounting standard has to be provided. Our setback version gives the bike makers more opportunities to work around bent seat tubes to reach the goal of clearance for the rear wheel.
Would it be possible to standardize integrated post mounting so customers are not wedded to one single supplier or design?
Sure it would be possible. It´s just a question of the willingness of the dropper post manufacturer to agree on one standard.
Eliminating the start-up expense of tooling frames for integrated droppers, are the manufacturing/OEM costs the same for a conventional dropper post?
In the case of Eightpins versus a hydraulic dropper post they are not. Our system works mechanically and the parts are more complicated to machine.
The slender, lower section of the Eightpins post is anchored to the frame.
Establishing the correct saddle height no longer requires a seatpost clamp.
Eightpins' large-diameter seatpost element can handle more bending stress, so they offer a set-back saddle clamp to provide frame designers the option to offset a straight tube, forward of the bottom bracket for tire clearance in lieu of using a curved seat tube.
Is the integrated dropper the best solution for future mountain bikes?
After more than 120 years of squeezed seatposts, it´s time to replace the old technology of seat clamps. So many things changed on bikes. Now it´s time for something new in the area of seatposts. We don´t see a way to solve the adjustment and travel problems with the current seatpost design. From our point of view, an integration is the best way to overcome these problems and make mountain bikes better.
Eightpin Notes:
Positives: Most promising new concept for future mountain bikes. Stanchion tube can be trimmed, and maximum stroke can be adjusted separately to maximize seatpost drop for every rider. Integrated design allows for a larger diameter, more rigid stanchion tube while reducing weight. Elimination of external seatpost clamp seals frame and reduces sliding friction.
Negatives: Post is dedicated to the frame (The seal-head can be removed from the Liteville and replaced by a standard seatpost and clamp). Frame design is restricted to straight seat tubes, which may not play well with some linkage configurations.
BMC's Speedfox debuted their built-in Trailsync dropper post, which eliminated the traditional seatpost clamp and introduced the concept of using the dropper post's action to operate the shock's low-speed compression dial. Post-up engages pedaling mode. Post-down opens up the shock for descending.
BMC Trailsync Integrated Dropper
BMC is newest to the adjustable dropper game, with a frame-integrated design that they debuted on their 2018 Speedfox. Instead of adjusting the “Trailsync” dropper post’s stroke, BMC designed a slip-over saddle clamp that offers 25 millimeters of vertical adjustment. The upper part of the mechanically operated BMC dropper is a simple tube that can be cut shorter with a hacksaw if 25 millimeters of adjustment is not enough to achieve your correct ride height. Should you sell your BMC to a taller rider, the internals are bone-simple to access, and reportedly, full-length replacement tubes will be readily available. Presently, the BMC post is limited to 100 millimeters (insiders say that longer stroke versions will soon follow), and the Trailsync system will only appear on BMC products That said, the Trailsync post is worth a closer look in this context.
BMC’s Trailsync post is mechanically actuated by a spring-loaded pin that locks into preset holes in the telescoping tubes (Gravity Dropper comes to mind here). The simplicity and field-proven success of its mechanism ensures a measure of reliability, and because there is literally nothing but air inside the sliding tube below the saddle, it can be trimmed to suit the customer’s pedaling height without reducing the stroke of the dropper mechanism.
Unlike the Eightpins concept, which was intended from the start to cross-over to any number of frame
BMC is newest to the adjustable dropper game, with a frame-integrated design that they debuted on their 2018 Speedfox. Instead of adjusting the “Trailsync” dropper post’s stroke, BMC designed a slip-over saddle clamp that offers 25 millimeters of vertical adjustment. The upper part of the mechanically operated BMC dropper is a simple tube that can be cut shorter with a hacksaw if 25 millimeters of adjustment is not enough to achieve your correct ride height. Should you sell your BMC to a taller rider, the internals are bone-simple to access, and reportedly, full-length replacement tubes will be readily available. Presently, the BMC post is limited to 100 millimeters (insiders say that longer stroke versions will soon follow), and the Trailsync system will only appear on BMC products That said, the Trailsync post is worth a closer look in this context.
BMC’s Trailsync post is mechanically actuated by a spring-loaded pin that locks into preset holes in the telescoping tubes (Gravity Dropper comes to mind here). The simplicity and field-proven success of its mechanism ensures a measure of reliability, and because there is literally nothing but air inside the sliding tube below the saddle, it can be trimmed to suit the customer’s pedaling height without reducing the stroke of the dropper mechanism.
Unlike the Eightpins concept, which was intended from the start to cross-over to any number of frame
A seal-head and bushing replaces the seatpost clamp and a sliding segment under the saddle micro-adjusts for optimal ride height. BMC's Trailsync dropper post is also linked to the shock's remote pedaling lever – but that's another story, altogether.
| Reception of the Trailsync system on our new Speedfox has been very positive. The system has been met with tremendous curiosity and has led to countless conversations at trailheads and on shop floors about integration, simplicity, and how we ride. It’s a conversation that BMC fully embraces and is happy to lead. We see our role in the industry as bringing innovation to the table that helps enhance your experience on the bike. In the mountain bike sphere this often means a focus on pedaling efficiency; something that’s often left on the backburner as companies pursue more downhill-oriented goals. The reality is that very few of us have the luxury to avoid climbing or pedaling on our rides and, given existing technology on bikes (propedal, lockouts, etc), we’re leaving a lot of that efficiency on the table in the name of chasing the descent. |
The simplicity of BMC's built-in dropper is apparent here. The gold device (left) is the pin that indexes in holes drilled in the dropper stanchion.
Trailsync Notes:
Positives: Promising, lightweight design alternative is linked to the shock's remote pedaling switch. Upper saddle height can be adjusted separately by trimming stanchion tube, or via the sliding seat clamp attachment without affecting the dropper's stroke. Super-simple pin-type dropper mechanism should last a lifetime. Integrated design seals seat tube and provides a large-diameter, more rigid stanchion tube.
Negatives: You can only get one if you buy a BMC, and if BMC abandons the concept and the post fails, your frame will be worth scrap prices.
The Fox Transfer post is rapidly becoming the most respected dropper on the market, but it is not designed to be user adjustable.
Fox Racing Shox: Three Questions for Mark Jordan
How important is user-adjustable travel to Fox and your customers?
It is something we are aware of, but I don’t think it’s a problem for most riders.
Some bike makers are saying that, in the future, dropper seatposts will be built into the frame. What are your thoughts on this?
It’s a great idea and will probably happen one day. But it will most likely require the use of a specific brand/model seatpost because all of the most popular posts are very different.
Frames vary wildly as to how far the seat post can be inserted into the seat tube. Is there a need to standardize some basic seat tube diameters and minimum insertion lengths?
With most bike brands using 30.9mm or 31.6mm and offering as much insertion as their frame design can handle, it’s probably as standardized as it can be. One step further might be to settle on one seatpost diameter and look at what it will take to go to a bigger drop. But an XC bike has different requirements than an AM bike, so it may get complicated when considering what is lighter vs. biggest seatpost drop possible.
RockShox: Duncan Riffle talks Reverb
Everything is on our radar. Are we working on that? I can't answer that question. It would be great if customers could micro-adjust their dropper travel, but I think we have that covered with all of the options that we offer now. We have a multitude of insertion lengths for our Reverbs that ideally, should cover most riders and frame designs. If a rider is caught between sizes, we should have enough insertion options so he or she will only be sacrificing ten or fifteen millimeters, not twenty or more.
Is a user-adjustable Reverb on RockShox's radar screen?
Everything is on our radar. Are we working on that? I can't answer that question. It would be great if customers could micro-adjust their dropper travel, but I think we have that covered with all of the options that we offer now. We have a multitude of insertion lengths for our Reverbs that ideally, should cover most riders and frame designs. If a rider is caught between sizes, we should have enough insertion options so he or she will only be sacrificing ten or fifteen millimeters, not twenty or more.
What are your thoughts on supplying bike makers with an integrated dropper system?
With the popularity of convoluted seat tubes on the rise, maximum insertion depths are all over the map. How does RockShox deal with this?
We would be extremely happy if there were a set insertion depth for certain frame sizes, but that may never happen. You probably know as much as I do that part of the frame building design process is the art of it. Every designer has a different idea of how their creation should look. After you work out all the elements that keep it from breaking, the next step is making it not look like an alien contraption. You wouldn't want to restrict that because of some minimum insertion standard.
Pinkbike's Take:
| Stating the obvious first, dropper seatpost makers have just begun to produce reliable products, so it would be a stretch to assume that the majority of customers will embrace a bike purchase that is dedicated to one specific dropper design. The need for a user-adjustable dropper post, however, cannot be denied, so the logical next step would be adding that feature to conventional posts and tackling the integrated concept down the road. That said, integrated droppers offer both bike makers and component manufacturers a chance to break free of convention and tackle issues like user adjustability, eliminating flex, simplifying the mechanisms, and maximizing the stroke of dropper posts without the complications created by having to fit all those improvements into a 31.6-millimeter hole. Dropper posts have become a fact of life for trail riders, but the perfect dropper is still waiting to be invented. |
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Must Read This Week
I tought semenuk how to do it, he'll be doing it at rampage this year
1) We're not all as skilled as him. I'll take any advantage I can get when the sh!t hits the fan on 35%+ steeps, which leads me to #2
2) The dirty little truth is WC courses are not steep. Most average around 20% gradient. That's not taking anything away from them. Some have gnarly bits and when it's balls out racing everything becomes gnarly but they are not steep compared to a lot of the stuff in BC or Laguna.
20% gradients are pretty damn easy with a half mast seat and indeed you want the seat for control and even some pedaling. However, when it truly gets steep I want the seat as far away from me as possible. I've seen folks size down on frames just so the seat can go lower. If you don't ride 35+% steeps you just don't know what I'm referring to.
170 is bigger than 160, so 170 is better.
I can't tell you how many times I've heard bigger numbers be heard as better on the shop floor. It's sickening.
"Bro, the hardtail XC bike I bought last week only has 100mm of travel. Can you throw a Lyrik on it?"
What's the problem with all this angry people "you don't need this (learn to ride)" same as "you don't need 42t cog (grow some man legs)" ?
190cm guy, 47cm seat tube with reverb. I love it when it's slammed, and for controlling my bike I can have it ~50mm out. Then for pedalling flat it's at max extension, 150mm. For steep uphills, 220mm out is perfect, so seat clamp here I come.
Why should I compromise going up or down?
World cup racers don't slam the seat, but : rear wheel clearance; they don't have a dropper so they choose a compromise to also be able to pedal seated (actually some have droppers); and oh they're racing. I'm not. I want to have fun, and than can include wanting to try to bunny hop and I can tell you I need all the possible help to do that.
XC riders have it very high.
Trial guys have it very low.
Saying one of the extreme positions is useless all the time (=you never need it) is saying to one of those rider categories "you're stupid".
Oh, and let's add some credibility to my speech : I'm a guy who rides a 44t chainring with 11-23 cassette up and down the Eiffel tower twice every morning before laughing at Richie Rude's ridiculous power meter results.
With droppers, more is better. If you disagree, you must have a tiny penis and always believed the "oh don't worry size doesn't matter" consolations from your partners.
It does matter.
Luckily, I can still have fun with a shorter than ideal post, and you can still have fun with a smaller than ideal dick.
Ffs.
Then Long posts for long people is an argument as valid as ebikes are good because disabled people can enjoy mtb. You can rationalize your more is better as much as you want, long people are fully entitled to have their say and enjoy it, but if you think that 200+ dropper demand is going to stay away from medium and Small sized frames you are fooling yourself. So you are with idea that bike makers won't use the "our bike accepts 210mm dropper in Small" as a weapon to fight each other. Meanwhile all this brings absolutely no effective gain to 80% of bike population.
That's a ridiculous statement right?
That's what this argument is like to me.
"i don't need 200mm of seatpost drop because x y and z therefore nobody should have it"
everyone has different wants/needs
Minnaar is constantly referenced in these conversations, yet hardly anyone is his height, nor is a DH bike relevant in this conversation. It's simply fact that WCDH tracks are not exceptionally steep, and almost all of them have some pedalling...
Look at the EWS guys, who by the way are the RELEVANT riders in this conversation...news flash: hardly any DH rider is running a dropper.
When you're riding trail/AM/"enduro" bikes on DH tracks, as many of us do, having your seat even lower is valuable.
Sure...plenty of the trails I ride don't require my seat to be slammed. That said, lots of people are running one bike now as opposed to multiple for different applications. If you have more drop capability, it can ONLY be a positive. If some of your flowy/less steep trails require less drop, or you like to control the bike with your seat...then you can adjust accordingly. However, if you have a short dropper and want to shuttle DH laps on your AM bike (either because of circumstance or maybe it's your only bike)...you're going to end up manually lowering the dropper.
m.pinkbike.com/video/412637
This is exactly the type of keyboard warrior that comments on PB more than they f*cking ride.
It would be nice if we could actually have productive conversations on this site about gear etc...not possible when you know that the guy on the other end of the conversation is a literal scrub.
top: it's urban assault day!
slightly lower: all around trail riding
lower, near bottom: dropping/downhill/jump
if I could pick these 3 spots and just have them, I'd be fine
Some good thoughts and observations in this article though! Integrated dropper a la Eightpin but with some hot-swap capability in case it craps itself would be the holy grail.
Vital shared quite a bit of information on some of the most common droppers post dimensions: www.vitalmtb.com/features/Vital-MTB-Face-Off-The-Best-Dropper-Posts,1762 but it certainly didn't cover all of them.
I would love to see a company make a minimal collar to rail height dropper post. That would enable me to be able to ride any XL frame the way I want (steep and gnar.) For most posts, you have to add 2.5 or so inches ontop of the already 20.5" seattube length. That gets tall real quick. If they could make them where the collar to rails is 1 inch or so, that would make life soo much better for us tall, aggressive riders.
@ScandiumRider: You are right. I measured it from the outside and the distance from the cable entry port to the seat collar matched my need (I don't need to have my dropper slammed all the way down). My mistake is that I wrongly assumed that the seat tube was reamed all the way to the bottom cable hole (which would make sense in my mind). By "Kona doesn't care" I meant:
- It would have been easy for them to provide a maximum insertion length based on their reaming specification.
- I contacted them, but they don't have a longer reamer and doesn't really care about my issue.
- A warning to other pinkbikers to consider the reaming depth of their frame.
I have a 153 too and tried a 200mm fall line (from one of my other bikes) and it would not fit, not because of the reaming, but because the stealth routing port was too high to allow the post to go low enough. The post went down all the way to the stealth port, but that was not low enough for me with my very long legs (it's a 560mm post for f*cksake)
175mm post fit fine.
Same problem here with a medium process 134 : distance between the cable routing port and the top of seat tube is too short for a 150mm Fox transfer or xfusion manic slammed to the collar...
Taller guys like me (not the tallest) caught in the XL frame long seat tube trap may be interested in these slammed heights:
Bike yoke 160 appears to have just 40.5mm.
The KS Lev Ci 175 comes in at 49mm and the KS Integra 175 at 50mm.
The 9.8 175/200 posts comes in at 60mm.
A 150 or 170 reverb has slammed height of 65mm bottom of collar to seat rail.
I'm partial towards the smoothness and consistency (laugh here is you want) of the reverb but riding that 65mm weight makes it nearly impossibly for me to ride most xl frames the way I want to. I just ordered the Yoke for my ibis HD4 in xl to see how it feels. It's got a 19 inch tube length which isn't a struggle but is far from the norm of 20-21 inch xl frames. At least riding it will help me see if there's hope for being able to ride other xl frames.
DH bike checks: www.pinkbike.com/news/36-downhill-bikes-of-crankworx-rotorua-2017.html
The ones that don't are mainly taller riders.
But, if you look where the seat on dirt jump bike is... you could get better idea why low seat is great
I am 191, and have longer legs. i would definitely welcome 200mm dropper post or maybe even 300mm
Because i have Kona Process with extreme low standover - which i like.
If i had 300 mm dropper post i could smash the trails as a XC maniac, and then blast some dirt jumps without stopping to lower the seat. But i must admit that i like seat as low as possible when jumping...
For general trail or riding 170 is far better option for me than 150. Almost happy... give me another 30mm and i guess it will be even better.
Lower internal pressures and bigger o-rings go a long way to improve durability & reduce assembly issues.
One thing, why are Tolerances on Rs forks slightly fkd and Fox aren't if it is so simple?
I don't buy the argument that it can't be done at all or it's too cost prohibitive. I think most of these companies are just trying to save development costs and not be the first to market in an industry that's grown tired of new standards year over year.
Lastly, screw the world cup downhill-er saddle height argument. Just because they do it doesn't mean the folks who are just trying to have some fun need to have the perfect height. The thought that people with slammed seats are perceived hacks by the likes of WAKI makes me laugh. There's no trails on a resort that I know of that compare to shuttle road trails for steepness or features. I ride purely for fun and the gnar is where I get that. WCDH racers ride against the clock, meaning their setup takes pedaling sections on flats and access roads seriously. The trails for World Cup Events are steep in spots but those riders are amazing and can sacrifice a tenth in the steeps for a second or two in the pedaling parts. Folks that rip for the fun of it may just want to slam the seat and pop every root as big and as high as they can all over the trail even if it's not the fastest line, and bless their little shredder hearts.
Just because I make you laugh, doesn't mean you don't make me laugh. Yeah I don't ride for fun, I don't pop from roots and rocks. I just follow what pros use I try to apply it while i burn my rotors. I'm a troll, how could it be that I could actually ride and know what I'm talking about with position over the bike. I ride Steeps LOL
The only thing you miss is the that idea I have that if me, terrible, troll and wanker can do it you should be able to do it easy peasy.
About machining, I'm happy I gave you the opportunity to show me the greatness of your expertise. I can't wait for a golfer, a shoe maker or a taxidermist to sit me down
Cheers!
All I am saying is that these debates about the right and wrong way to set up your bike are all stupid. Do it the way you want. I'll do it the way I want. Us and everyone around can vote with our wallets and buy the next eagle xxxxx bla bla or choose not too.
If you're just out here to troll, then I fed you and you go on being WAKI. Come to think about it, I liked a lot of your mockumentry style drawings about the crazy ass bike industry and their stupid but incremental changes to standards and the constant marketing blitz of the next crazy MTB fad that will improve your riding without ever getting off the couch. In some ways I agree with you. As a shop mechanic in my previous life, I was probably just as frustrated and annoyed by 24" wheels with 3" tires and 10 BB standards and all the headset standards that went bigger, bigger, smaller, half and half, then it's axles, then f-in wheels (is 26" not a sacred number?), then more freaking axle widths, didn't we settle on this already? Now we're doing posts.
At some point I realized that my old 1996 full XTR XC machine is a crappy bike used as a grocery getter and my modern budget bargain Reign 2 is way more fun. Shit changes and some of the changes seem silly and purely for marketing purpose, but over they years the sum of all the changes is always a way more fun to ride bike.
KS has shorter post, so does the 9 point 8 / RF / Easton and others
Is this sram saying; we know the reverb was shit, we got it sorted now, our policy about only releasing products that meet our standards has changed recently and previously we didn't give a shit? Or, our droppers meet our standards therefore our standards are pretty low (because our product doesn't work properly)? Or none of the above, we are just saying this because we think it will sell more product, we actually don't give a damn about being honest, we just want your money?
It seems that Rockshox motto is "top-notch suspension products, when they're working".
Maybe I'm just stuck having to be more selective with where my funds are spent than most of the people on this website seem to be.
BS...there are constant complaints about them and maintenance is only one issue.
In my case it was a construction fault....not much I could do about it , right?
-the happy owner of 2 fox transfers.
Now technically I can't really ride with a dropper post because they don't make one that fits my seat tube. Nowadays DMR went up to 27.2mm (DMR Bolt and new Trailstar) but my old DMR Switchback (like the old Trailstar) still takes 26.8mm seatposts.
Sure if I'd ever happen to ride a bike with a dropper I'll check and see what it does. Not sure how raising it is going to make me happy though. But I suppose many of you ride full suspension bikes that allow you to remain seated for longer so yeah, I get that there may be sections where you'd be seated and I'll still be standing. As for those concerned about knee damage, I think it is important to think of ass and saddle as separated units. There is no need to remain seated when the saddle is down. If you still stand tall when climbing it doesn't really matter where the saddle is, right? Mike in the first picture left could just as well have kept his saddle low and have been equally kind to his knees.
I've got stupidly long legs for my height, and wasn't comfortable with a 150/155 dropper post. Switched to a 185, just the right size for ME. A friend on the same bike went for a 155mm dropper post, and that suits him just fine (anything bigger would be a waste, as he wouldn't touch the pedals when fully extended)
That's a ridiculous statement right?
because it's basically what you are saying.
Seriously? How many broken Reverbs were there ?
Having used them.from day 1, I felt like a beta tester , the last 2 have lasted ages. So that's 4/5 years of development
www.bikerumor.com/2013/04/11/tech-speak-brake-fluid-break-down-and-implications-for-road-disc-updated
Check the SRAM responses in that article.
I thought the idea was to have it at pedalling height at it it's maximum extension but still drop low enough for any nasty steep stuff. There is such thing as too low, even in difficult terrain. The taller crowd obviously need the 150mm-ish options but this 200mm+ is a joke.
Talk about a non-dilemma!
Good hell you have some endurance. I once rode for 10 miles without a seat/seat post and it was exhausting to say the least.
So looking forward to being able to service it myself over sending it in.
so far on my short test ride I like the feel and the remote. I am coming off a command post so I get along fine with the set drop positions.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3Qb97HHj1Q
Agree, integrated has plenty of cons to go with pros...
but heck, might as well digitally tell everyone with diff opinion to "f off" if you even possibly have the opportunity right?
It`s easily disassembled and self serviced if ever needed. Spare parts (dirt seals, lock pin) are reasonably priced and same top notch quality as the dropper. The V2 is actually available for delivery and doesn`t keep you waiting.
I own a cheap Cube 125 dropper on my Banshee Phantom and have tested 8point on the Liteville 301 MK14 in Garda 601/Skull/Coast. More travel can be more fun, not better, it may lead to sloppy technique (same with suspension).
Should I replace my current dropper only it would be Moveloc Vecnum. Should I replace my complete bike it would be LV 301 + 8point, if I ever win the lottery ;-)
The biggest technological leap in dropper technology is a post that has an auto drop option without the need to be pressed down. That and increased reliability, which has been the biggest problem since day one. By focusing on anything else, its a smoke and mirrors show.
So, although it worked like charm to be able to get that drop at my height(it makes a real difference these extra 20mm), now I am aware of I can actually hit my bum in a critical situation. Probably not a bad thing atall. I am just trying to get the muscle-memory for the gesture of getting back on the bike a bit less than before when in sizable drops, or when on the rear wheel on the steep. You don't want an OTB on one of these!
Any advice welcome! that said, having grown up riding bikes(mtb, bmx,...) I am loving my do it all 29" enduro bike, specially on the steep trails that you can find in Scotland(where I live). I couldn't have dreamt of all the options and technology available in the market nowadays.
Hope you are all well (due to the pandemic situation) and dreaming like me on the day you on your bikes at the fullest again!
It's simply not possible to have super short seat tubes with long stroke droppers. There is even an EU norm about the must have clearance.
This is oxymoron(s)
Its been my experience that the $100 droppers are far more reliable than the $400 ones.