Tague

No mention of the WhakaMiler 162 km race that took place on the same day, with more difficult tracks and 4200m of climbing!

@Rubberelli: They probably do, but I have not broken mine since Dec2016, yet I have broken them on previous bikes. You keep breaking chains....my argument is that a single chain line puts the chain under stress in one direction; the derailleur adds side load. Common sense tells me the chain has to be more susceptible?

1:38.44 when Sam Shaw couldn't get his Zerode out the start hut because it is UNRIDEABLE!

@ Mike Levy. In the interests of allowing progression and putting this review in context...let Kazimer put his spec on the bike and ride it for the next 4 weeks? It is pretty obvious that he needs to chose a lighter spec and take advantage of what the bike is capable of....but let him decide and then write a stand alone review as you have above. I assume you have a 1 reviewer/1 bike policy but as you said "the Taniwha isn't just another 160mm-travel sled, and it's not just a carbon enduro bike, either - it's more important than either of those two common talking points can sum up" Up vote for a second test spell with Kazimer?

@Rubberelli: It tells you that the way the deraillieur works, is to apply a side load to the chain while it is under stress!

@AntN: Never happened since Dec 2016. I'm not the worlds best rider either, but why are you pulling and twisting on the grip to do a jump...Mick Hannah doesn't even have his hands on the bars!

Mike...you have discussed how the bike is different to everything else, the rear suspension works so well with less weight...then put a massive rim and tyre on it and said it doesn't climb! Duh. If the bike is so different, treat it that way. You have a dishless back wheel that needs a light and stiff rim with a 2.3 tyre maximum (DHR), this way you actually take advantage of the system. if you still need a bigger tyre up front go for it, but how many people smash their front wheels up...exactly so keep that light and stick a 2.4 on it. People looking at this bike are going to be experienced riders, they should know how to corner and pump and ride high lines. they will be looking down the trail and will learn that if they read the trail well, they can dump as many gears as they want when they round a bend and see a pinch climb in about 2 seconds of time. the same people don't need plus tyres to stick a high rooty line and will revel in the bikes ability to descend. I completely agree this is not a bike for everyone, and it is not flawless, but you have completely misunderstood this bike. Biking for most of us is about having fun...even when we are racing. This bike has it in spades and the hill climbing is not an issue. I spend way less time maintaining this bike and thus have more time to enjoy it. I have owned this bike (version 1 with the P1 gearbox which is heavier) since December 2016. I ride with all the same friends and group rides on trails that regularly feature in EWS (who Ride SC/Transition/Yeti/Intense) as I always have. I have good and bad days in the skills dept., very rarely shuttle and like to earn my downhill, I have also recently done a 5 day backcountry riding trip with no issues and lots of smile time. Questions answered: -Yes their is a slower pick up than a normal bike -No I wouldn't change the shifter even if a trigger was an option (I would assess the electric once produced) but it would need to change a lot of gears quickly to sway me. -No I do not know how much my bike weighs -The weight is centred and low and this benefits the ride -You can shift under load, the amount of torque reduction and the time needed to shift becomes part of your riding skills. -I am not a robot but cannot feel any drag in the system, even though i am told it is there -Yes it is expensive, but after a year I replaced my drivetrain (Chain plus 2 x $30NZ chainrings), instead of god knows how much on a new cassette. -Previous bikes inc SC TRC, Bronson, Nomad. -We now have 2 in the garage and my next one will be a Zerode too.