Y-oldJeepman

mrrichardh, I agree!!!! I'm 6'5" and rode a 2012 XL Trek Fuel Ex 8 with 440mm reach. It seemed like an awesome bike, but I was slow and crashed a lot. After a few years of trial, error, research, and thoughts of giving up MTB, I bought a 2017 XL Kona Process 111 with 510mm of reach. The previous owner (who also owns a chain of bike shops) was shorter than me and had a 90mm stem on the bike. Ridiculous setup, but it still worked a lot better than the Trek with less reach. However, I eventually purchased Lee McCormack's book called "Dialed, the secret math of a perfect mountain bike set up". I ended up swapping in a 40mm stem . My hands are almost perfectly in line with the pivot of the bars, and it's like I'm on a way better bike. I wish I knew this when I purchased my first MTB.

First of all - Very educational podcast. I believe I am seriously over-biked. Partially because if you are new to Mountain biking (or any sport), you are making a significant purchase when you will never know less about the sport. Many local bike shops either know very little about mountain biking, or are terrible at relating their knowledge to the individual. Right now, I am researching Fat bikes (which I likely won't be able to purchase until inventory is replenished), and the LBS are of little value - yet they want me to buy locally. The most frequent response is "it all depends on what you want". So I ask if they ride Fat bike. The answer is "yes". But they don't have an opinion on if a front shock is required on our local trails, which are rolling hills and tight flat trails through the woods? How can that be? I know how to read a geometry chart, and I believe I know exactly what I need for reach and stack, but what about seat tube length, head tube length & angle, top tube length, etc. How can you expect the beginner or intermediate rider to understand the effects of each of those dimensions and determine which are most important in selecting a bike? Most LBS workers speak in S, M, L terms. Frustrating.