Pivot Releases New Point Steel DJ Bike

 Apart from tyres and maybe bars, what parts need to be DJ specific?

 You really don't need DJ specific anything besides frame and hub, it's just pointless marketing. A regular ol mtb stem will work fine for you here, if that scares you then get a bmx stem. Same goes for cranks

 Deity still makes tons of stuff.....just not frames and cranks.

 Deity makes DJ bars still: www.deitycomponents.com/highside_handlebar_50mm.html

They also have another model.

 @secondtimeuser: Def FORK!

 The only DJ specific parts are frames and forks.

 @secondtimeuser: wheels/hubs (26” is more dead than you think), tires, pivotal standard saddle, chain tensioners, fork (options were limited to manitou circus or the unreliable overpriced pike DJ in Marz new resease).

 @manatee73: I'm curious, which parts specifically are you breaking?

 @arwilso4: In terms of rims, off the top of my head Halo, NS, Dartmoor and DMR are all selling "DJ" rims. Of course what's really needed is "strong 26in rims" so it's fair to include products sold as DH parts, so that's brands like DTSwiss, Stans and Hope also still selling strong 26" parts. So 7 brands for what is now a niche product seems fine?

Hubs again Halo, NS and Dartmoor sell DJ branded hubs, and then you've got SS hubs from the likes of Hope and Industry 9 to consider, so decent choice there.

For tyres, Schwalbe, Maxxis and Kenda all offer DJ oriented treads so most of the major manufacturers covered.

Pivotal saddles...AlansBMX have about 150 choices on their website so difficult to claim they're in short supply.

Chain tensioners seem pretty straightforward to find, TartyBikes have plenty in stock and street trials bikes probably see as bad abuse as DJ bikes.

And as for forks...with options from Manitou, Rockshox, Fox, Marzocchi and RST then again, that seems like more than enough choice.

I get that there's fewer options than for enduro bikes, but given how niche DJ bikes are having at least 4 or 5 major manufacturers for each part category seems more than enough.

 Tires have been the struggle for me lately. I did finally track down a seller on ebay with some Kenda small block 8 in 2.35. You better believe I hoarded them.

 @secondtimeuser: spank spoon

 1500$ is cheap?

 @AsafGurfinkel: who said cheap???? I said affordable. It cost me around $1800 to build my PBJ last summer, and that was with a used fork and brakes.

 @secondtimeuser: Cracked stem, bent bars, cracked pedals in terms of deity parts. Too many to name otherwise, but that's all part of the sport so whateva

 @secondtimeuser: The hub, the rims, and the crank for starters.

 @secondtimeuser: yeah like apart frong the engine and the two extra wheels what is the diffrence between a car and a bike

 @bmxsnox: Try the continental race kings 2.2. Awesome DJ / pumptrack tire and relatively easy to find.

 Two different bikes... For two different jobs...

 @Allen82: thank you Captain Obvious. Your service is appreciated as always!

 @tbubier: You're welcome.

 This is what happens when Pivot makes a bike with no pivots.

 The pain I heard behind this comment was too relatable.

 Not sure where you are in the states. I just to went to my LBS (I'm in Southern California), they had to place an order, frame only 3 in stock, mine being one of three. Completes not expecting to be shipped til June.

 @tonyplanet: my lbs got 3 complete bikes. They built one and sold it already. I put a deposit down on one and expect they’ll have it ready this week.

 These days...not a dumb question. But yes, 26” as it should be!

 Yours is a rebadged DMR?

 @BiNARYBiKE: DMR makes the bikes for Pivot at their specs. All pivot points are DMR bikes.

 @stevelloyd: were made. The past POINT was a PIVOT designed bike, built in the same factory as DMR, sharing on some of common tubes and parts. This new model is not, it's a ground up design and build.

 doesnt sound all that bad to me you could do a lot worse than dmr

 @huvudvind: I have no problem with DMR I was just surprised that Pivot hadn’t been building their own.

 I believe it has a tapered head tube now, at least my old pivot point (DMR) frame was straight I think.

 @PivotPoint1: ....no it was tapered, I had one as well. DMR stamped even.

 No comparison either. If you are going frame up, it should be a no brainer to get the standard.

 My Standard 250 Trails was one to the best bikes I’ve ever owned.

 I just got a standard last summer and its the best dj I’ve ever owned.

 ... it’s on point?

 @MrMediocre: wish i was clever enough to have come up with this

 not a bad price point

 Seems like there is a lot of competition around the $1500 mark. A handful of new DJs out there for less but they all seem to be running coil spring forks (Circus Comp or Sport). If you want an air spring fork, I can't find anything less than $1500.

 @getupgetdown: Transition PBJ comes with a Pike DJ fork and its $1600.

 Components seem nice. Def good quality. It's pretty close, maybe a tad expensive, but not ridiculous.

 @HB208: I'd expect their prices to go up soon like everybody else though. The new Commencal Absolut with pike DJ is getting bumped to $2,000 USD

 @mongobrah: Yikes, that's getting a bit high for a DJ! Especially if it's just a goof around bike, and you're not a "serious DJ" guy...

 @mongobrah: Maybe, I have one on order now. Transition hasn't bumped their prices yet, but they might.

 Inflation just hit the bike industry way too hard. For this much money or maybe a bit less you can get, after waiting 6 months, a Rose Bruce or a YT and have better parts. The cheaper Bruce, which is the better one, is 899 Euro. Still, I just like seeing more DJ bikes out there.

 @HB208: I am not a total shredder and I blew the damping on my pike dj in like a month.

 @adrennan: How long ago?

 @HB208: I think it was like 3 years ago. I heard they updated it, but it is not something that gives me the confidence to drop premium money when my circus has been great since...

 @adrennan: Ok, just checking. I have heard the same thing, but haven't heard anything negative about recent models.

 @adrennan: they have seemed to fix those issues because it was decently common issue and now i’m not hearing about it at all and i’m around 20 guys running pike DJ’s regularly.

but yeah love my circus expert too

 Schwalbe Table Tops

 you can still track down the occasional ikon or ardent race (has to be the 'race' version) if youre riding dirt. dth is the best bet for concrete.

 Kenda small block 8 or Schwalbe billy bonkers

 Continental speed king and race king as well

 Halo wheels do some decent tyres too.

 Generally 2.3 dth front and rear. Maybe switch it to Ikons up front if trails are rougher or softer. I've even ran Aspens f&r one winter as our jumps are rolling most of the year.

 Conti Race Kings DMR Motos Billy Bonkers Tioga FS100

 Table tops are nice (have those), but the Billy Bonkers are where its at. Huge weight savings. Nice tire.

 Check out the Kenda Booster Pros. Solid tire if you’re looking for something with knobs. Replaced my small blocks with them and they’re good to go.

 Ikon front, dth rear. Semenuk style

 I love my Maxxis Hookworm.

 Geax Booze Light ( now Vittoria)

 @Shred-BC: Discontinued sadly.

 I'll take those dropouts over horizontal with chain tensioners any day plus you can take the wheel out without changing the chain tension. personal opinion though

 @palirojo: I've never ever needed chain tensioners on regular drops. Ever.
I did have a frame with drops like this, identity P66. An those drops are just an un necessary hassle that add weight an make the frame really wide at the rear giving a chain stay angle that decreases tyre clearance at the bb.

 @nojzilla: How does a wider rear end result in less tire clearance at the BB? I would think a wider rear end would create a larger angle and more tire clearance at the BB. Though, I might be miss understanding what you are referring to.

 @palirojo: think of the angle the chain stays have to take towards the bb. Couldve just been the P66 but, the chain stays at the wheel had like two sets of drop outs. The wheel mounted to the slider an then that part mounted inside the frame. From that wider angle the stays have to clear the crank arms an then meet the bb. This made the rear end super long, (for a DJ bike) an i couldn't get the rear end slammed with even a 2.1 tyre.
An all that for a problem that doesn't exist.
Like I said I've never needed axle tugs or any form of chain tensioners on any of my bikes with regular slotted drops, an I've had a lot both DJ an BMX
Hopefully this frame is better designed but still, for me. Its a solution to a non existing problem

 Looks like a DJ** The Shonky is much more sophisticated

 @ridealltheb1kes: I won't argue with that, being a proud Shonker myself.