WTB Releases Proterra Wheelsets That Won't Break the Bank

 And you can hear the rumblings of the dentists in their Sprinters coming to explain how anything cheaper than their Enve x Chris King wheels is unrideable

 @Shred-BC: And those with diy j-bend 350/EX511's will grab popcorn and chuckle at all the fuss.

 @Eatsdirt:
HAHA! Agree, after having bought a 'take-off' set of DT EX1700's from some dentist: j-bend, 350 w/ratchet, boost spacing!

 @thomasjkenney1024: good thing you got the 350s with the ratchet, because I hear you can't get far with the 350s without the ratchet

 @privateer-wheels: Guess he's referring to the 1900 wheelsets of DTSwiss that come with a 370 that's without ratchet (and are seldomly built into 1700 OEM wheelsets).

 @Eatsdirt: I got EX511s built up by professional wheelbuilders with 350s for 550€. I really don’t see how these WTB should be better than that for pretty much the same price.

 @Upduro: My round of cedar and wood dowel never fails!!

 @danimaniac: it's a joke. I'm teasing.

 The stans are such garbage, that unless the rider is extremely slow, or under 120lbs that they get totally trashed

 @NoDHinKentucky : The correct term is "pinkers"

 That's me! (:

 Never novatec, not even once www.pinkbike.com/photo/20061696

 To be fair, the 6 pawl Novatecs are... less bad.

 The Factor (by Novatec) hubs I’ve been riding all year have been fabulous and their high POE has been awesome. Not sure I’d ride anything straight Novatec but apparently they can build some decent stuff.

 @Dornbox: just wait, the freehub bearing will go and take everything with it

 Got a new bike a couple months ago with the stans hubs. Destroyed the durasync freehub, got an upgraded replacement (speed sync) on warranty, which seemed better, but then the ratchet ring stripped out. Never had a bike with a more obvious week link than that garbage hub.

 @Tr011: is this in reference to Novatec as a manufacturer or first hand experience with the Factor line? Thanks

 @Dornbox: yes

 @hamncheez: That was disturbing

 @Dornbox: I doubt it's in reference to Factors. In the past 3 years I have had a couple hundred Factor hubs come though my hands and across my bench, and I have had zero come back with a failed bearing. I call BS.

 The proterra hubs are extremely reliable and are certainly not rebranded Novatec. Seems like you're one of those guys who has no idea what you're talking about..

 @hamncheez: I've been using D042SB for years and only have to replace bearings once. That was easy AF and cheap AF. Steel free hub body is still intact. I don't know about other models but Novatec made some good stuff over the years IMO.

 @Tr011: Yep. That happened to me with two sets of Novatecs.

 @EnduroriderPL: One of those pictured freehubs is steel (and noticeably heavier). Its the one on the right. The freehub body itself was fine, what happened instead is the pawls all sheared off.

 @hamncheez: I bought spare pawls for pennies without a problem. I've never used but still there were available as spares without any problems.

 @EnduroriderPL: So I should have a bucket of them and replace them after every other ride?

All three of these freehubs were from a combined 300 miles of riding. I'm no MVDP I'm not putting down serious watts.

 every 300 miles? seriously? This is genuine incredible because mine lasted years but on standard shimano layout.

For curiocity I would replace them with aftermarket and see what's what.

What about inside race of the hub - was is also worn out?

 @EnduroriderPL: All three of these COMBINED had 300 miles on them. I got a new hub after that (a cheap, used, $40 Roval hub thats been flawless for over 1,000 miles, tracked on Strava). I also broke several ratchet/spline rings (whatever they're called). Novatec warrantied everything every single time, but I got sick of the down time and unreliability. One of the freehubs broke on the first ride after it was installed.

I suspect it comes down to the four pawl design and small diameter of the freehub. Only two pawls are ever engaged, and with a lever radius half of some other brands, its just way too much torque.

 @hamncheez: that's messed up story right there! On the contrary: I've never had problem with pawls on really low budget hubs as long as there were shimano, 2 pawl set up. I don't know what Novatec did but it seems that materials they've used is soft crapp

 @Dornbox: For sure. Factor is definitely the premium face of the operation, but you're right about the Novatec quality overall. Underrated hub brand with a surprisingly large industry footprint. Durable, easy to service in most cases, and full of options. I would need to dig deeper to verify this, but they may well have been/remain the manufacturer behind the Nukeproof-branded hub products as well. Another nice thing is that Novatec is finally moving in a more Western-style website direction, with easier to find specs for the Western consumer or wheelbuilder, including the essentials for spoke calculations. Needless to say, that data should always be handy.

 Yea had Novatec hubs on a Stock Karate Monkey and the rear axle bent and the rim cracked at the weld within a couple months. WTB warrantied the rim quickly and got it rebuilt but Novatec said they knew of the issue and I could buy the “upgraded axle” to fix the problem. Also the HG Freehub is sketch. But it was the stock Wheels, I actually rode the bike on trails and the complete bike cost less than a I9 or King Wheelset so whatcha want!

 @SirWilhelm: Disappointing to hear that. That's too bad about the axle (and admittedly there are certainly better customer-service solutions), but I'm not surprised that WTB took care of you ASAP with the rim. What hub model was it? I would like to think Novatec has improved since then. The Novatec hubs I have had strong experiences with are all XD-driver based, and I have also had zero issues with their front hubs, especially the burlier models taking Torque Caps. The XD-based Boost models use a reinforced and/or oversized design that externally (if not internally) looks a little like its Factor big brothers.

 @HogtownWheelsmith: Click on my pic above. Notice that I destroyed both aluminum and steel XD drivers.

 @HogtownWheelsmith: I believe it is a “ BM5-T18I00900044-F1” which is the only markings on the freehub and hub. I’ve heard from my local shop that some Novatec stuff is okay, but this one turned out to be a bit of a lemon.

 @SirWilhelm: Got it. Sounds like it was a dud. I would need to see it to determine whether yours was a better Novatec model rebranded OEM with that product number, but that seems unlikely. The better Novatec stuff - the stuff even some pro riders will use (including in freeride in Europe) - will typically start with a mountain product notation of "DB" or something similar. Anyway, hopefully you won't have another poor hub to speak of - that's a rough break.

 Idk, do the spoke hoes still rip out?

 So here is another Novatec-adjacent brand, either Bitex or Fastace I'm not sure. But what I do know is it happened to me going up a steep climb, and according to Strava this hub has only 40 miles on it.

I'm not track rider, I'm an overweight dad with a desk job. You get what you pay for.

www.pinkbike.com/photo/20328394

EDIT it somehow bent my derailleur too, so that has to go as well. Possibly cassette is ok.

 @hamncheez: But how do you KNOW they were manufactured by Novatec (not that it matters)? There are numerous manufacturers making hubs in the far east, some reliable and some of pretty dubious quality. Novatec does make some entry level low-frill hubs that have had spotted reliability track records for sure, but they also manufacture some very good hubs.

On your picture, I have seen a number of high end hubs with damaged flanges as such. Most recently was a higher priced Tune hub that came across my bench. These things can happen because of quality issues with materials/machining, and in some cases also because someone (or some thing) has over tensioned the spokes, past what a hub might call for. Chris King and Onyx for example (if memory serves correctly) have 125 kgf limits. I have seen a couple of machine built wheels as high as 165 kgf in the past couple of months alone. You can venture to guess what might happen in these cases - cracked flanges and cracked spoke holes, definitely in the long term, and in cases like yours the very short term as well. Cheaper hubs made with second rate alloy, and over tensioned spokes can spell disaster. Usually when someone is trying to make cheap wheels, it's going to be cheap parts and cheap assembly, and you are likely to see more failures when these things collide.

But yeah...more often than not, you get what you pay for. I agree.

Coming back to Novatec though - here is an example of a freehub-body/engagement assembly manufactured by Novatec that offers reliability on the same level as any other higher end pawl and tooth. This particular freehub has landed on worldcup and crankworx podiums, and has also been used in RB Rampage. I took this picture just now, just for you =)

www.pinkbike.com/photo/20328411

 @privateer-wheels: I didn't keep buying novatec freehubs. Every time one broke I got it warrantied directly from Novatec (sometimes they would break on the very first ride; I broke more than whats pictured here) before I just paid my own money and bought a different hub. So if any of them weren't manufactured by Novatec, they sure were willing to send me warranties for them.

 @hamncheez: yes, understood on the freehub picture. That much was not clear from the broken flange and your description of it (at least to me), so thanks for clarifying.

 @privateer-wheels: Ok, this newest pic was from last Friday and just happened.

I ordred a Bitex hub (that I've had great experience with in the past) but I think I was sent the wrong hub and this is a fastace. The seller says that fastace and bitex are manufactured in the same factory, so they often swap them, but I think thats BS. I'm trying to get something resolved, so I don't want to say who I bought them from yet and trash talk their business.

 WTB: Wheels That Break

 I dont get this. I ride pretty hard and have KOM Tough 27.5 with i27. I have trued them 1 time. Theyre tied to J bend RF Vault hubs. Honestly really dig the wheels. I know its a different hub. Have people had bad experiences?

 @chillrider199: Maybe "Chillrider" is a more chill rider than they realize?

 @beeeefkirky: WTB - walk the bike

 @chillrider199: everything breaks for some people. Like you my WTB rims stayed true for years. Eventually I bent one, it was a very inexpensive rim to replace. I laced it to the original Novatec hub whose bearings had lasted years and were cheap/easy to replace. I don't smash the pedals but still wear out chains/cassettes regularly. If you're smooth things last longer, even when hitting everything.

 @flaflow: Totally agree - I've bent Race Face Turbine rims and destroyed their hub as well. Had cheaper wheels that sometimes lasted longer and sometimes not. Don't tend to break half as much stuff these days. A lot really depends on riding style and if you ride all year round

 @flaflow: you also live in Florida, in Utah no matter how smooth you are, every component dies. Geography matters

 @5afety3rd: I'd like to invite you down. 1st you'll love the winter ride. 2nd you'll see you don't need a Wasatch front to find rocks and roots, or 10ft drops.

 @flaflow: It's about vert and terrain too, not just difficulty/"gnar factor". I have ridden many of the chunky areas in FL (Alafia, Oleta, Santos, Tom Brown, etc) and it can definitely get hairy and techy, but there's a difference when your daily ride can be 2k up a fire road and then 2k down a super rocky trail. There are places where one may be more technically difficult, but the other just eats parts.. comparison that comes to mind is Grand Targhee vs the stuff in Pisgah north of Brevard. Pisgah is techier but the dh trails at the Ghee will thrash your bike. Another example would be porcupine rim (or half of moab) - not that hard, but lots of square edged rocks.

I do agree that rider smoothness has a lot to do with it, but at some point the terrain is the terrain and will have it's way with your bike parts

 @chillrider199: In my opinion you're right to not get it. Good for you for sticking your neck out and commenting. WTB makes fine rims for the money, and their consistency and feature set seemingly expands with every passing riding season. Any rim can have issues; let us recall that the most high-profile Pinkbike wheel review of the past two years (the Paul Aston epic) focused on a rim set that cost as much as some car insurance! Take it from a wheelbuilder with extensive experience lacing with WTB: it's quality, affordable stuff. Same goes for their tires, a testament to the brand overall. I would place WTB third on my select list of companies that have, to my workshop, consistently delivered with true tire carcasses that won't diminish the visual straightness of a carefully completed hand wheelbuild (Michelin and Schwalbe being the other two notable companies). Enjoy your wheels. Vault hubs are total baller, by the way.

 @flaflow: i'll keep my winter ahab laps thanks

 That also lists "Shimano HG 11spd" as an option - guessing that's for a roadie cassette, but it doesn't say so it's anybody's guess.

At least they put this in - "Does your gravel bike require a 15x100mm front hub? Use coupon code ProterraEndcaps during checkout to swap the 12x100mm end caps for 15x100mm." So 15x100 is gravel as well. Also, centerlock only for the gravel/road? I know there are adapters, but c'mon.

Then there are what they consider MTB - no non-boost options and SRAM XDR/Microspline ONLY - no Shimano HG freehubs to be found!

It's clear who they're catering to here, except it isn't. Offering only the newest standards cuts out the low end of the market, but the subpar hubs cut out the higher end and much of the mid-tier. Soooo...their target demographic is...IDK really.

 But that was 3 season's ago. Demand and shipping prices have driven prices up at least 69%. Or 420%. I forget the numbers exactly.

 @dangeraem: WSB?

 @dangeraem: and if you're smart you're stocking up on spares now.

prices going up a lot this year.

 There is a he fact that prices are increasing but I still feel like there are quite a lot of wheels around being marketed as value that are neither cheap nor light. I'd rather get a custom wheelset every day of the week.

 @dangeraem: I blame Dick Pound

 the worst part is you could build a set of wheels with WTB rims with DT 350 hubs for about the same price as this wheelset

 It's an ok price - but when you can build something custom for similar prices (and weight) with dt350 or some bling color hope hubs.....

 @N0R415CAL: Can you please provide the setup and data for your lab and field testing, especially with respect to durability?

 "it was a loosing battle"

I see what you did there.

 @MtbSince84: but does he?

 @greener1: Admittedly... No. Lol.

 @Eatsdirt: yeah, I can get those built up for a hundo less all day.

 www.wtb.com/collections/proterra-wheels

 Options are nice.

 Still are.

 @Explodo It looks like a Kona...maybe the 2021 Process 153 DL 29.

 @coregrind: Thanks! It does look like it geometrically, but the colors are way different on the Kona website and the pic above. I wonder what the real color is...guess I'll have to go looking.

 Crank Brothers has actually really done well with their latest generation hoops, both carbon and alloy.