Jan 13, 2018 at 10:21Jan 13, 2018
Used, but great shape. I cover shipping and PayPal fees.
Jan 13, 2018 at 10:17Jan 13, 2018
Used for 3 months, no issues. Needed a frame and fork, but bought a whole bike. Parting out some extra parts. 51.75in of line as measured in the photos. I pay for shipping and I eat the PayPal fees. Local pickup works too.
batdorf9 vernonfelton's article
Jun 9, 2017 at 16:45Jun 9, 2017
Intense 29 vs. Intense 27.5 - Leogang DH World Cup
Yes, yes, but we need to go to 32" first. Then there will be a revolt. Then we can back off to 30.5" for a few years to let people ease into it. Once that soaks in, then we can finally go back to 32".
batdorf9 mikekazimer's article
Mar 19, 2015 at 15:17Mar 19, 2015
SRAM Announces New Hub Standards - Boost 148 and 110
From an engineering perspective this makes a crap load of sense for 29ers. 300 mm spokes with a 21 mm flange width on either the front disc side or the drive side rear leads to some really really dumb braving angles. An extra 5 mm will improve bracing angle and is really welcome. Nice to see 110 for the front, as 100 mm is leftover from forever ago when there were no disc brake calipers taking up space up front. I suspect a lot of the nay sayers here are 26ers for life, and this doesn't apply to them at all.
Posted in "Show your all mountain bike"
Mar 9, 2015 at 12:32Mar 9, 2015
Added 9 photos to SJ-Evo-29
Mar 7, 2015 at 18:56Mar 7, 2015
Feb 1, 2015 at 16:46Feb 1, 2015
**** SALE PENDING ***** Selling my upgraded Intense T275. I started with the Pro build, but then end up swapping out the majority of parts. Quite a lot of attention to detail went into this to make it this light. It's currently 25.90 lbs as shown with pedals. But it's not just light. Too many people go all weight weenie, and then end up with a crappy impractical bike. This thing is light, but still completely all-mountain and badass. I have three bikes in rotation, so this one has seen limited use. My best guess is 25 rides and 350 miles. I build a new bike every year, as the OCD bike disease and build is a big part of the fun for me. This thing does downhill like no other. My first impression of it was that of a bobsled. It's like you ride down in it, tucked down in. This has really made downhills for me a whole new world. And it has me stumped why so many people rode 71deg head angles for the last 25 years. I have ridden this bike in rocky terrain. I have crashed a couple times, though nothing serious. The rims have rock marring marks here and there, from riding through rocky rugged trails. The frame has a few small scrapes, but nothing to be concerned with. I didn't build up a completely badass bike only to have it parked next to a baby stroller in the garage and polished every week. I built it to ride it and that includes trails with some seriously rugged rocky chunder. Please have a good look at the photos provided. Frame: Size large, carbon goodness. Rockshox Monarch rc3 shock. 160mm or 140mm travel. I swapped the shock bolts and lower vpp pivot bolts out for Titanium bolts. I will include the stock steel bolts. I swapped the stock seat QR for a fixed one. The stock QR was surprisingly heavy, and I see no need for a seat QR on a bike with a dropper post. I'll include the QR. I removed the heavy front derailleur cover plate, again will include that in case you want to weigh your bike down with dead weight. Also swapped out the steel bolts for the reverb line out for aluminum. Some of this stuff sounds silly, but it all adds up. The fork is the 160mm travel RCT3 Pike that came with the bike. Now that I've ridden with a Pike, I don't want to ride a bike w/o a Pike. Braking: Shimano XTR m988 Trail brakes Shimano RT99 180mm Freeza front centerlock rotor Shimano RT86 160mm IceTech rear rotor Shimano F03c metal pads with cooling fins Rear adapter is a MA90 version which is lighter than the standard MA version Aluminum brake lever bolts (will include stock steel bolts) Titanium caliper and adapter mounting bolts Titanium Torx-head rotor bolts on the rear Cockpit: Easton Havoc 35 800mm bars and Race Face Atlas 35 50mm stem. Really stiff, strong and light combination. I swapped to Titanium bolts for the stem. Intense lock-on grips. I also have some ODI dual lock somethings I will include. WTB Volt Titanium rail saddle (I'd be down to keep this and knock $45 off the price if you don't want it). Rockshox Reverb Stealth dropper post. Wheels: A lot of thought and OCD behavior went into these wheels. I made my life a bit complicated here in the pursuit of something a better than the norm. Rims are Light-Bicycle AM 35mm wide carbon rims. I was a tad unsure about these going in, but now that I've ridden them, they are going on all my bikes in the future. The 35mm width does great things for tire stability and cornering. They are very lightweight, and have been rock solid. The rim section allows every tire I've mounted on them to be inflated with a floor pump -- no compressor needed. I chose the matte 3k fabric outer finish for a reason. Carbon fabric is much more damage tolerant than unidirectional material. Somehow the cycling world has come to see unidirectional carbon as higher performance than fabric. Well all of these rims are made with unidirectional carbon on the inside where it counts. It's just the outer two plies that are carbon fabric. I'm still confused why certain expensive high-end wheel companies sell mtn bike rims with unidirectional carbon on the outside. Fabric is more damage tolerant and would be a much more sensible choice. Maybe they don't ride their stuff in rocky terrain?!? I just don't get it. But I digress... Spokes are Sapim CX-Ray straight-pull. These are the strongest/best spokes I know of. Using aero spokes on an all-mountain bike may seem dumb, but I prefer them for the simple reason that the flat sides give you something to grab onto with a spoke holder tool while building the wheel and tensioning up the spokes. I prefer straight pull spokes for pure mechanical sense - it's a more direct load path. DT 350 straight-pull centerlock front hub, really light and simple, and it allows the use of a Shimano Freeza rotor. Roval/DT 142+ rear hub w/ upgraded 36t ratchet. Specialized has us convinced 142+ only works on their bikes. Well it depends. I chose this hub because I wanted to get the widest possible flange width for a better bracing angle (hence strength) on the drive side. With the lathe at work I machined the drive-side spacer to give 143.2mm total hub width and 0.025” clearance between chain and frame when in the 10t cog. The frame measures 143.8mm across the dropouts when there's no wheel in place and it is in a stress-free state. These wheels have been flawless since day one. Tires are Maxxis Ikon 2.35 rear and Ardent 2.4 front. I found the Maxxis High Roller II's to be very slow rolling. They have a pile of grip, but rolled slow and were heavy. I also had some indications here and there that the HR II was a bit to square profiled for the 35mm wide rims. The Ardent 2.4 knocks off 100g, and has a really nice round profile. Braking traction isn't as good as the HR II, but it rolls faster. The Ikon 2.35 made the bike a lot faster rolling - a huge difference compared to the HR II. Traction has been surprisingly good. The Ikon has a very small cut near the bead, about 3/16". This happened on the 2nd ride out. I had a leaking valve stem which led to low tire pressure, and then a rock cut. I patched the tire from the inside, and it's been holding fine ever since. I will include an extra HR II free. Drivetrain: Sram X0 carbon crank, GXP, 175mm. Race Face crank booties in place since day one. Absolute Black narrow-wide spiderless 32T ring - these are the lightest/coolest spiderless rings out there. Sram XO1 derailleur, shifter, and cassette. Once you ride with XX1 or X01, I can't imagine anyone wanting to use anything else. Sram chain. My current plan is to sell the bike without pedals. I've been using these Xpedo MF-8 Ti/Ti pedals for years and really like them. They are 220g for the pair, come with a 175 lb rider weight limit, and aren't the easiest to get in and out of. They really don't fit the character of the bike. So the price as listed is w/o pedals. If you really want these, they can come along for another $125. But you probably shouldn't want them. Local pickup is vastly preferred, though I realize that will be tough for the stars to align that easily. Shipping adds $125 to the price. If there's some parts here you don't want, we can negotiate those off in exchange for some dollars coming off. I'm reasonable.
Oct 19, 2014 at 9:01Oct 19, 2014
I'm selling my wife's previous bike to help pay for her new bike. She's ridden this lightly over the past year with an estimated 500 miles. The bike weighs 23.63 lbs as pictured here with pedals. This bike was built up from a bare frame with killer parts. 2012 Niner Jet9 RDO frame v1.1, size Medium. Niner says this fits 5'8" to 6'. This is the previous RDO version with 135mm rear dropouts (not the current 142 thru axle). Niner now calls this the Jet9 Carbon. 100mm rear suspension travel with Niner's patented CVA links. Full carbon frame. Rear shock is the stock Fox RP23 Kashima w/ boost valve and high volume air cylinder. Headset is a KCNC Radiant integrated. Fork is a 2012 Fox Float FIT RLC 120mm travel, 32mm stanchions, Kashima coating, 15mm thru axle. Fork seals and oil were replaced about 100 miles ago. Wheels are Roval Control SL 29 carbon wheels w/ Roval / DT Swiss hubs and DT straight pull spokes. These wheels are awesome. Really light yet still really stiff. Amazing what they do for the feel of the bike. I have them on my own bike as well. Rear cassette body has been upgraded to a SRAM XD driver to accept the XX1 cassette. Crankset is a SRAM S2200 BB30 carbon crank. Chainring is a Race Face 30t narrow-wide ring that keeps the chain in place without fuss. No dropped chains ever. I also have a 32t SRAM narrow-wide chainring I will include with the sale. 30t is great for the typical riding we do here. 32t might be handy for flatter stuff or racing. Rear derailleur and shifter are SRAM X01. X01 and XX1 are great. Once you ride XX1 it's hard to go back to anything else with a front derailleur. The rear derailleur clutch mechanism virtually eliminates chain slap. I didn't really realize now annoying chain slap noise was until I switched to XX1. Shifter mounts to the bottom of the brake lever using a Problem Solvers "Mismatch" adapter. Rear cassette is SRAM XX1 10-42t 11 speed. Chain is SRAM PC-XX1 11 speed. Pedals are Xpedo MF4 w/ titanium spindles. I'm not a huge fan of these, but they are sufficient for test rides, and you can have them if you want them. I'd recommend Shimano SPD or Xpedo MF8's instead. Brakes are Shimano m785 Deore XT hydraulic discs. Rotors are Shimano IceTech RT-86 180mm front and 160mm rear. Rotors are attached with titanium bolts. These brakes are really powerful, consistent, and maintenance free. All bikes in this household have Shimano brakes for a reason. I have some spare Ashima AI2 weight weenie rotors I can swap on if you'd like. Rear tire is a fast-rolling Maxxis IKON w/ EXO sidewalls. Front tire is a Schwalbe Nobby Nic 29x2.25" snakeskin pacestar compound. Tires are mounted tubeless w/ Stan's sealant. I'm not aware of any better tires for the xc/trail type of riding we do. The tires are reasonably light, but not "too light" such that we risk sidewall tears and punctures. I have a variety of other tires available that I can swap over to match your riding style and terrain. The lightweight and fast-rolling, but less grippy and durable option would be a S-Works Renegade and S-Works FasTrak LK. Handlebars are Easton EC70 carbon bars. They are 685mm wide. I can substitute a BMC 720mm carbon bar if you prefer. The BMC bar is wider but heavier. Stem is a Syntace F109, 90mm, with titanium bolts. Seatpost is a Thomson Masterpiece w/ titanium bolts. 31.6mm. Seat is a Specialized Henge w/ chro-mo rails.
Added 10 photos to Niner
Oct 18, 2014 at 15:01Oct 18, 2014