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Jan 17, 2015 at 2:50
Jan 17, 2015


Billy-C SEADEVIL's photo
May 3, 2014 at 8:59
May 3, 2014
Is that a crack in the weld there?! ;)

Billy-C SEADEVIL's article
May 3, 2014 at 8:56
May 3, 2014
Brake choices ???
I got a pair of zees inc rotors for about 220 new, definitely enough power to stop me & my gut!!
Billy-C SEADEVIL's article
May 3, 2014 at 8:55
May 3, 2014
Truvative Hammerschmidt Cranks....AM/DH
Major con, when it breaks there is naff all way off fixing it save sending it away to europe be repaired... One of my friends had one & some grit got inside & it seized, for love nor money couldnt get the bloody thing open to repair it as a specialist tool is required to open it. In the end tried to machine up a new tool, but didnt work, so i think the choice was to send it off & pay £££ to repair it, in the end he just took it off & threw it away, replaced with shimano slx :) Because its a sealed unit, any grit that gets inside just gets tumbled around as though in a washing machine until it seizes. its easier to maintain a traditional crankset. IMO with a hammerschmidt you'd just be throwing good money after bad...
Billy-C SEADEVIL's photo
Mar 18, 2014 at 14:30
Mar 18, 2014
New l'oreal advert?

Added 1 photo to Quack
Mar 14, 2014 at 11:36
Mar 14, 2014
1 comment – Add comment
Billy-C SEADEVIL's photo
Mar 14, 2014 at 11:33
Mar 14, 2014
Okidoke... Right 180mm rear. Well you could go for a pair of Marz 55CR's as with the rear travel its just as important to have the crown to axle height set correct. Marz are renowned for having a longer crown to axle length, so a 170 fork would be more like a 180 rockshox or fox fork, that could save you some weight. Headset reducers are a pain to align, i personally prefer offset shock bushings (machined a set for my bike). I'd rely on the pro pedal more for stiffness than tightening the spring (just because its easier to undo when your ripping a decent). What lbs spring are you using? Bear in mind Fox's calculator tends to be an over estimate... I run a 550lb rear spring on my CCDB and it supports my chunk plenty easy enough, & i'm fatter than you!! In conclusion, look for light (air spring) or a decent set of oil damped forks with around 170mm, but be careful to compare the axle to crown height as this varies quite a bit between brands, the effect being a longer length will feel that its 'sitting up more' in the travel, when infact its using the same travel but the fork itself is slightly longer. Weld wise, fatter isnt always better, its more important to look at the edge between the weld and the base material, if there is a sharp contrast it will be more prone to crack, where as a flatter (flusher) weld bead even if smaller will still (probably) be stronger than a fat globule of weld... In summary weld failures occur more often due to geometric effects (such as weld bead geometry) rather than "quality of weld" from a material/chemistry point of view. Check out my new build!

Billy-C SEADEVIL's photo
Mar 11, 2014 at 8:39
Mar 11, 2014
Whats the difference in application of this Ellsworth to the previous ones you've had bro? Is it more DH orientated?

Billy-C Billy-C's photo
Jan 15, 2014 at 10:34
Jan 15, 2014
Ye its getting there, had to prop up the BB as the CCDB easily compresses under the bikes weight. I was just doing a dry-fit to see which way around was easier for access to the valves. Don't fancy having to remove the shock each time to turn a dial 1/4 turn... Any news on the spring for the boing-boing? Btw, the frame is a large and it definitely feels 'right' and not as cramped as the medium frame did.

Added 1 photo to Quack
Jan 14, 2014 at 16:41
Jan 14, 2014
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