10 New Pro Mechanics' Tools - Pond Beaver 2020

 I get sweaty just looking through tool catalogues

 Those Wera T-handles...

 @PAmtbiker: Do I need new wrenches ? No. Will I get these wrenches ? Of course !

 You must love Waki then!

 @felimocl: I could use a cigarette right about now...

 Same! My ideal wheel building setup is having my truing stand on the coffee table watching old world cups. Now I can watch my spoke tension in real time and my wheels will never be perfect enough!

 Please more of this!

 Dhude, it's in the title. "Pound Bea..." ...oh...wait...

 Where is the "buy all" button?

 now imagine the situation when you love these tools but can't use this .. oh wait

 "a money bonfire" Haha that's my new favorite phrase!

 You need a good set of Allen's, or t-handles, and dont ever buy a cheap cutting tool.

 You have to buy the really expensive parts first, then the really expensive tools to install them.

FWIW you should be getting your suspension serviced at minimum every year, as well as bleading the brakes. Every winter I'll disassemble everything, send the suspension off to somewhere that knows suspension, and clean around all the pivots.

Pretty much only requires Allen keys and a set of metric wrenches. Also blue loc tite is your friend. Put it on almost every bolt except for clamp bolts (stem/cranks etc). Have fun!

 The head on it looks a bit bulky. I'd like to see the swing degrees its actually effective at.

 I'd absolutely love it it there were a version that would also work with the (apparently insufficiently common in this bicycle bizz) 14mm and 15mm nuts. You know, for the axle nuts. The BMX takes 19mm so that's all good but 15mm is common on my regular (commuter, cargo, kids...) bikes. They could call it size M which name apparently isn't in use.

I wasn't aware of these sliding T-handle tools but they look pretty nice. I prefer those proper straight allen key sizes instead of the ball-end sizes. Hopefully it trickles down to the lower end toolkit. I always work on my bikes with consumer grade tools and don't think I'd need pro stuff.

 @vinay: yeah I think an M size is coming and they’ll end up covering the whole spread.

 @vinay: sliding T's are so worth the money. do yourself a favor and get a set asap, they'll last forever and the convenience and utility is unmatched my regular L hex keys or P-handle keys. The spinner shaft and the stripper gripper seem a little gimmicky to me though. I have a set of the beta-951s and they spin pretty fast without an extra sleeve.

 @lognar: Pro-Motion makes a good set I think

 The Wera Adjustable Nut Fu@$er.

 @schofell84: It is probably a time saver for pro mechanics but not when working on modern mountainbikes. On commuter or trekking bikes there can be difficult to reach outside hex bolts or nuts where the ratchet can be helpful. Obviously there are ring ratchet tools too but these open ended wrenches also work in places where these ring wrenches won't. This usually isn't an issue when working on mountainbikes but on commuter bikes with racks, fenders, chain-enclosures (or whatever they're called) and whatnot the ratcheting function could speed things up.

 @schofell84: That's what she said!!

 Cheez they dont even know how to use a wrench correctly

 When the product launch video needs to be computer animated to visualize a very simple product doing what it is designed to do... you know that product clearly has to be perfect. I can't imagine any scenario where that wrench completely rounds off the nut and is absolutely useless. Why else would they use such high-budget animation?

 Self adjusting tool = rounded f-uped nuts.

Its a bicycle you can take 90% of it apart with a set of Allen keys, don't f - up the 10% with that "plumbing" tool.

 Call now and we'll double your order!

 @orags: Prices so low you can't afford not to buy!

 @lake-st: it really isn’t like cheap self adjusting infomercial tools, it actually grips when you apply pressure. I’m a bit curious about if locating the jaws on a bolt head will be intuitive or not, but Wera is as legit as they come.

 @brianpark: They could use a new marketing department...

 @brianpark: Adjustable tools have there place, I just don't believe its for repairing bikes, we all want to have one tool to do it all, fact is if its tight you need a tool that engages all sides of the part, especially aluminum.

Same way as All my 12 point wrenches stay in the tool box, six point sockets and wrench's are the way to go especially if you take stuff apart often.

 @lake-st: Adjustable wrenches are the serrated knives of the repair industry.

 @DJ-24: I cringe even when I see pipe-fighters using them. They're awesome for broken fingers and busted knuckles though.

 @schofell84: Especially on brass.

 @lake-st: in general, yes. But Knipex...

 Wera also makes a weird set of Joker wrenches, and like this adjustable one, is the answer to a question no competent (tool fanatic, mechanic, tinkerer) has ever asked. They make amazing tools, but sometimes they might be grasping at straws. My mom used to give me tools as gifts, and they were always sort of weird, and thus never used.

Now if Park had access to Wera's HexPlus™, those T handles would be near perfect!!

 @brianpark: Ya they have nice tools and I almost bought one but I have a stool to get into my top tool box now and I have been giving my son tools, I have way too many.

I have always made tools mostly just to get the job done , but lately I made a few nice bike tools super solid and precision, way overkill but they will be around for two life times.

 @lake-st: Not sure there. Nearly all (outside) hex bolts I've seen on bikes (except for maybe some lower leg bolts though these seem to be mostly inside hex (so allen) bolts now. Yes whatever threads into the top of the fork is typically aluminum but due to the shape of the fork crown you'd usually not want to use a spanner there anyway. The rear swingarm of my Cannondale Prophet attaches with an outside hex bolt but for the most part these days, outside hex bolts are not common on mountainbikes (except for fork top caps indeed).

@fodermonk: Then again I wonder how many pro mechanics can't handle a simple chainwhip. There sure must be people out there struggling with them and that's what that fancy new chainwhip is aimed at, but these won't be pro mechanics.

 @brianpark: A lot of people in this thread have clearly never used a pliers wrench from knipex. If there's space, they are downright better than a fixed wrench.

Guess I probably would be talking the same trash if I didn't know better though.

 @vinay: You are correct like I said before 90% of bike hardware is Allen , so for the little bit that is hex get the proper tool so you don't mangle it, also pretty hard to torque with an adjustable wrench.

My Remedy uses alloy hex nuts on the rear axle and one side of the lower shock bolt, they even indicate the required torque right n the hex,

I do all my own work, but if anyone came close to my bike with a mangler one size fits nothing wrench, they would be looking for a new arse hole.

 @brianpark: which knipex set(s) would you recommend Brian? I have seen lots of mentions, but never actually had a set in my hands to determine which size would be most beneficial.

 @sspiff: I own two of them, and am an industrial mechanic, and that is just not accurate. They are really good pliers. They are not better than the right wrench for the job.

 @lake-st: This tool is probably not intended to be used on mountainbikes in the first place. Commuter bikes have more outside hex bolts and nuts and they can also be harder to reach with rack, fenders etc in place. Especially the hard to reach places are where a ratchet tool like this could become handy. And outside of bicycles, there are even more purposes. Plumbing comes to mind, where you come across a wild mix of metric and imperial sizes and where you tighten nuts close to walls or other pipes. A ratchet ring tool isn't useful for working on pipes, the ratchet is nice for the confined spaces. It may not be for getting things up to torque but it is particularly useful for getting there. When you need to apply higher torque indeed use the regular spanner.

Indeed if you have only one outside hex bolt on your bike, obviously there is no point even owning a tool like this. You probably do have room for full rotations (so no need for the ratchet) and you need only one size (so no adjustable spanner).

 I used to be skeptical of Knipex (and similar) pliers until I used them. Now when I come across a problem at work and am trying to find a solution they often end up being it.

 @schofell84: I guess that's my point. For a lot of jobs they are better than any wrench I've used. Start taking conflat flanges off of vacuum chambers and you'll see!

 @onemind123: Knipex 86 03 250 is most common plier wrench you will see bike mechanics use. cover quite a good range. I rarely felt the need for one of the bigger one but the smaller 180 could be useful in tighter spot.

 @1llumA: I personally get more use from the 180mm version than the 250mm (which is the most popular size amongst the trades). Probably depends on what you'll be using the tool for most.

 @schofell84: I totally agree...they can crush stuff....if you have a proper fitting proper tool for the job, it's better. Knipex are the king of good and versatile - and maybe occasionally more efficient. But the the right tool is the king of precision and no damage....and just as efficient if they are nearby and organized well enough to find them easily.

 @1llumA: the biggest ones make effing sweet portable vises essentially. If you have the correct set of bearing drifts and big knipex, you can make short work of those 12 bearing linkage overhauls....

 @1llumA: I have yet to find a job on a bike that the 250 could do better than the 180 tbh.

 @sspiff: I've got a couple sets of the pliers wrenches, and as versatile and great a space saver as they are, I still find a regular wrench (spanner in my neck of the woods) easier to use. Plus you have more contact with the closed end and they're not as bulky in the tight spots.

They are mega versatile though - anything from crimping cable ends to pressing in linkage bearings.

 Worked at a shop for many years and building wheels was my zen time. We had all the fancy tools and gauges, pretty much every spoke imaginable, various prep compounds, you name it. Perfect wheels and no fumbling around. Life moves on and my last 4 wheel builds have been in my living room. Linseed oil for prep and no stand or gauge. Just a squeeze check on the crosses and using the bike and some zip ties to check for true. I've become a monster.

 @Lylat: I never use a spoke tension gauge, too many variables (spoke type, cross pattern, number of spokes, nipple type, rim type/material, etc.). 100% by feel. I do have a 20+ year old Park wheel stand and all my OG wheel building tools from the mid 90's to early 2000's all still going strong. I use ti prep/anti-seize on the threads for most of my builds. I have a dish gauge, but just the Park tools model.

 I was in the market for a dishing tool and saw the Abbey tool, but couldn’t justify the price for personal use. Then I saw a beautiful one made of wood (www.wheelfanatyk.com/store/wood-dishing-tool). My dad was always into woodworking and has gone a little crazy with it since retiring, so I asked him if he thought he could make one similar. He recently finished and I am extremely proud and impressed with how gorgeous it turned out. New favorite tool.

 @bman33: Those are only "variables" from one wheel to another wheel with different spokes, pattern, etc. Using a spoke tension gauge to make sure your tension is even all the way around a wheel is never a bad idea. I also build wheels by feel (and sound). I still check my work with a spoke tension gauge.

 @DeepWoods831:
Lovely piece of woodworking, but no adjustable standoffs for checking dish with tyres mounted

 @Marquis: use what works for you. Right on. I've never used one, several thousand wheels built over a 25+ year time frame no issues. Pretty confident in my approach but not saying other approaches are wrong.

 @Otago: You’re right, but I was willing to do without them. I went for fashion over function with this tool haha. I could always use the frame to check a mounted up wheel and if it’s really off I could use something else as a standoff or pull the tire off

 but is a wide rubber coated T wrench better than a standard L key though?

 @lognar: For example on a 5mm Gray Tool, the T handle is 4 1/4" wide. If you have a seized bolt, and if you really have to push the wrench in tight and use a lot of force, the added T handle length gives you a superior grip hold and allows you to easily apply more torque.

 @bowser07 I'm surprised Gray tools aren't more widely used. They're high quality and Canadian made, although kind of on the expensive side. Their torque wrenches are particularly nice. For pure tool porn people should look up Nepros tools from Japan.

 I've been eyeing those, they look super handy for so many applications!

 But is the stripper gripper side necessary? How often is that needed, vs having a separate tool for stripped bolts? Being able to switch from the long side of the T to the short without having to look at which hex on the upper key i'm going to use saves quite a bit of time if you add it up over the course of a couple hour wrench sesh. Perhaps they're more useful in a shop setting where you'll come across user serviced and user ruined bolts more often than my home setting. Thoughts?

 @lognar: That's more for shop mechanics than team or home mechanics. Shop application is probably 90% of the intended users for this tool.

 Just got some myself - they are great. Didn't spring for the Torx as I rarely use em, but the Hex are top notch and the holder works great....

 @lognar: having the extracting side right there on the same tool you're already holding is actually really useful. I've used them quite a bit since I got the new wrenches a few months ago.

 @lognar: even if the extractor is used once in 10,000 uses it's more useful than a 3rd hex on the tool.

 The pedros is good (I got one also) but in terms of quality the Beta or Silca set beat it.

 @1llumA: I haven't had the pleasure of using either of those sets, what do you like better about them? I think the Pedro's have really good qc on size and they're really well balanced. The only gripe I've had is that the hex tapers a little quickly to the larger diameter of the round shaft for some applications (3mm cannot adjust TRP's Spike/Spyre pistons due to the deep recess, for example). In a previous life, I spent 12 years as a pro wrench, so I've used a lot of the "pro" style hex wrenches and found many to be under/oversized, particularly the Bondhus-made wrenches that the big blue tool company from my home state sells...

 @mechaNICK: Tolerance is the big difference between Pedros, Silca and Beta. Also the pedros sliding part can slide off unlike the Silca and Beta. A 10mm hex key is rarely used but still useful (campy crank bolt). Still the pedros is a good value kit and the one I would prefer over many for a home kit and wrenching on your own bike.

 and you can buy all the beta 951 separately from pegasusracing.com

 I meant from Park.

 @fatduke check out toolboxwars on IG

 @pdxkid: cheers

 nanuk or pelican with thick foam sheet like Kaizen

 @pdxkid: Every picture I'm just throwing money at

 Monoprice has hard side weatherproof cases similar to pelican at a fraction of the cost. I got a case just a little smaller than the pelican 1510 for i think $70. Has help up great over 3 years of heavy use in and out of my truck on a weekly basis.

 Euro tools are awesome! Hazet, Gedore, Wera, Wiha, Zebra, Knipex, etc.

 I've had my eye on one for a couple years, but I think I can finally justify owning one now.

 Easier to ask for forgiveness than permission. When the t-handles arrive, show her how they spin....she will understand.

 @RonSauce: They double as a drink stir... many other uses I'm sure. LOL

 Agreed. One can dish just fine on the stand by rotating the wheel.

 @sspiff: Yep

 Right? He helped with this and will be doing a tool feature for CyclingTips’ pond beaver coverage!

 @brianpark: oh sweet! I'm definitely not knocking your work, but something about Rome's writing, or his 100% nerd out on tools is very endearing. That dude makes me want to buy stuff I absolutely don't need. Ha, I think he does the same.

 Thanks @brianpark . There are a few tool news pieces to coming to CyclingTips soon.

 Chain whips exist, no reason to ever touch a vice-whip again.

 The unior cassette wrench is pretty great uniortools.com/eng/product/1670-2BI-freewheel-remover I don't think they make one for 10T cassettes, but all my bikes are 11T so no dramas.

 @markinator: The latest version of this tool is double-sided and works with SRAM XD or Shimano 12-speed cassettes.

 Sadly that's not possible with how most bearings are installed into bicycles. You typically only have semi-blind access to the bearing, and so sole contact with the inner race is your only/best option.

 @DaveRome:
Can you give one example where you would have semi blind access?

 @DaveRome:
Don't worry - read they are bearing removal tools... Thought you meant install.

 @ollyman: Ah, that's my bad. I read @cheetamike 's comment and thought he was referring to the bearing puller tools (such as the BRT-051), which indeed only contact the inner race.

The Enduro press tools, when accompanied by the right bearing drift (sold separately) do actually contact both the inner and outer races for bearing installation.

 Lesser family of the Enhydra lutris but a larger family of the Arvicola amphibius

 Also your mom's gamertag.

 Pond Beaver is the last official beaver gang-bang north-american championship before the end of the shut down.
You came too late unfortunately; everything is sold out!