Welcome to the future of trail and all mountain riding (freeriders, you'll benefit from it too) - the Truvativ HammerSchmidt will change how you ride! This is a bold statement, but until you get a chance to really try one, you'll just have to believe me or talk to the other folks that have demo'd one and be prepared to start riding more.
Check out the pics, video and information inside:
Greg Herbold runs us through the Truvativ HammerSchmidt:
The Truvativ HammerSchmidt is this year's revolutionary one chain ring, two gears crankset. Running a 1:1 and a 1:1.6 ratio drive gears, you'll experience the benefits of a 22/36T or a 24/38T with out the added hassle of a front derailleur or two chain rings.
We should start to see the Truvativ HammerSchmidt trickle into shops soon, so keep your eyes peeled and get in there to try one out and see for yourself what all the good fuss is about.
To learn more about Truvativ, please stop by www.truvativ.com and snoop around.
These are already being shipped stock on many bikes. The MSRP is not hundreds more than normal either.
When you figure how much cranks cost and that you can ditch an extra derailleur and get seamless shifting, you cant go wrong. No chain suck or dropped chains or missed shifts. Just good ol greasy goodness.
And why the F3ck does every thing have to be SICK or Gnarly?
You guys are such trend whores you even talk trendy. Talk like you have an once of a brain for once.
Its bad enough you ignorant shits are always arguing about what country is better or who's bike is better and always trash talking each other.
Put down the sandwich and go build a trail, cuz im sure lots of you don't ride much. Build a trail for those of us who do. That would be SICK.
seconded! and does anyone think it might be possible to run the cranks engagedin the higher gear ratio without having a shifter, so it just stays there? cos it would make for a sweet single ring freeride bike with the extra ground clearance etc, would be more compact, out of the way and you wouldnd have the extra cables and shifter cluttering up your bars.
how are we trend whores for saying "sick" and "gnarly"
Those words have been used in similar context since the early 90's. You my friend are just out of date and find a need to bitch at someone for using a term. So I'll use em both again for you...
That SICK bike, is SO sick that it looks gnarly enough to handle the sick gnarly trails a sick gnarly bike would normally use.
wow think a few years back full sus bikes were springy wreck machines- technology is amazing these days! bet that chainset runs sweet! better than the new gt idrive
the thing that amazes me the most is that back to that time that sus bikes were springy wreck machines, this thigs was already inveted, and refine to nowadays, imagine whats going on in the labs for the next years...
Hammerschmidt is amazing.I rode it at Eurobikes Demo Day on a Mongoose bike.Its a step into the future,works brilliantly,and i believe that the idea could be used in DH.Not 2 gears,just a small ring(22-superior ground clearence) set to overdrive with a desired ratio will give the power of a 38 or 40 tooth chainring.The price and weight are ok also..
it says 22/36T or a 24/38T so how are you gonna get the equivalent of a 42 tooth, he mentioned 42T in the vid but im pretty sure he was refering to the rear cassette, anyway you look at it i want it
it was mentioned above that sram could make one in a 22 tooth size and get a larger ratio such as 38-40 tooth. i simply suggested adding 2 ratios to this so you could change it according to the course being raced
All you guys complaining about the price... $800 is the mrsp not final price. NOTHING gets sold for the msrp. Second off this is the FIRST product like this on the market... of course it will be expensive. It's called r&d.
Expect things to be just like everything else and watch the price go down after more versions come out. The same as how all the douchebags picked up the first Iphone the week it came out and spent like 600$ and then months later a whole improved and new Iphone came out for half the price.
If you don't like the 800$ just shhh and wait until its cheap. Until then the gadget and new tech whores can rave all they want to about these. Heck I sure know I'd spend the money on them If I had a better job or cheaper rent.
lol ya so i think id rather buy a bike then have the hammershmidt if it comes with any bikes next year and .or the price goes DOWN BIG TIME then i might buy it but i dont have $800 sittin around my house that im gonna use on buying a hammerschmidt
Who cares about weight hermo44. The whole fact is ousting the standard shifting setup will make up for any weight you add... thus making you faster still.
You know how many times Ive had drivetrain issues on a run.
i just dont think theres going to be a very wide market for the product. I know it sounds like an amazing idea which it definetly is but im just trying to figure out who will be buying it. It will probably cost around 1000 dollars with everything you need so entry level riders will barely consider buying it. For downhill racing, most riders dont really feel the need to be messing around with multiple chainrings anyways so they probably wont be buying it. Cross country racers are going to want a greater gear range and will find the weight an issue. I think this is an awesome product and if i had 1000 bucks to toss around i might buy it, but i dont really feel its a piece of technology that will be widely used, but i may be wrong
great idea but ruined by cr*ppy Howizter bottom bracket and Truvativ's lame ISIS crank / bottom bracket axle interface = weak, creaks, flogs out with time
our most common workshop job is replacing blown Truvativ Howizter setups (Ruktion, Hussefelt and Howizter) with Shimano Hone, SLX and Saint..
Truvativ cranks and Howziter B/B = no sale
shame...would like to try it with Saint HT2 cranks
Always been that way. From pedals that break, to crappy cranks for dh. They make xc, am, and road stuff. The saint stuff just isn't as strong as they claim. Partly because they are still new compared to the r/f cranks and haven't had the many years it takes for solid reviews.
but either way, both suck. All aluminum cranks suck. They all will break. They all will strip. I broke my profile race arms and put the dj arms on. I kno my cranks and bb is heavy as hell, especially with a 100mm bb, but I have had not one issue since the change, and can probably ride these cranks for 20 more years.
Screw buying new cranks and bb's every season. I'm tired of that crap. Steel is real, go buy profiles. (we proved alum cranks don't work in bmx racing. The guys running saint generally have the carbon frames and forks and are not worried about re buying bikes every season... but for the ones who have to support their own hobby, profiles are the crank of choice. Cheap, run smoother than any alum crank bb (even phil bb's), and will last forever. Simple. Problem solved.
I have to agree with you on the primo's, but they are un heard of for dh around here. I ran primo alum cranks for awhile during my gram saving days, they held up awsome.
My buddies all had them on their dirt jumpers also. Rock solid.
But anyways they also weighed as much as my profile dj cranks so you were not saving weight by running aluminum. They were stiff and rarely snapped due to how big they were. Street riders didnt like them because of grinding chunks off during pedal grinds.
I still have my super cut primo mustache bars in the garage also
Run primo pedals on all my bikes also. Heck everything that comes from Primo is top notch. By far the best bike company on the planet and I'll for ever swear by that.
Looks great and it will be a good upgrade for a lot of riders retrofitting it, but I am holding out until I see the right frame designed around it. The pivot placement issue is vitally important, and I think next year's bike shows will have some pretty surprising and desirable frames made available now that front derailleurs can be taken out of the bike frame-design equation. For the time being, I run a 2x8 and bash guard on my Banshee Scream, and it works great. BIke Park or FR, it's terrific. It might be old but it doesn't slow me down. As for my 5" trailbike, I can't part with my 44T. Sorry, SRAM.
many have problems whit ther crank arms. my frien installs this arms i germany att hawk bike and he says that its not as god as i could be. so i will whait a year or two,. and thats my appinion. hope you can read my wery wery bad eng.=) sorry
I rode one at Expocycle a month ago, it was very very nice shifting and down shifting. I like the idea and innovation behind the design, there's more to come from Sram and Truvativ. Another thing is that it'll be very hard to get in the aftermarket, because the first batch will be going to the OEM for the '09 lineup of bikes. I know for a fact that Lambert will only be getting 15 for the spring booking and they're all spoken for. I'm not sure about the availability through Norco P&A catalog because they're also supplied for there OEM stuff. I think the best way to get one is either A) buy a complete bike with one or B) buy one that's a ridiculous price on EBay.
or 3 ride the parts that havent let you down and pick one up at the end of the rideing sesion because face it some little spoilt brat isent going to like his new bike and sell it off and put a single speed on. Happens every day. Some peoples children.
mmm the way I see it this chapy is doing what Steeve Jobs and Bill Gates do with new products, marketing marketing and more marketing
Themaninthenorth, sampa and clapforcanadaa bring out good points about the thing.
weak BB and poor crank arms let the thing down. And the price is way over the top for a piece of gear that probably will cost a boiled testicle to repair of it breaks.
Dude all companies are based on marketing moron. You have to sell product to be able to support future R&D. What's up with all these socialists around here.
Have fun with your high taxes zap. Even though I'm half british I must say that you guys really do have most things basackwards.
Great idea but wouldent the col's (cowl) wear with time. i have a specilized slip side rear hub and i wore them down in about 4 years. Too many little parts to crack and impload when you beating the sh*t out of your baby. last thing you need is grinding your $400 crank gears. Remeber the "kiss" rule KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPED. Like any new products leave it for a cupple years. And if there anygood and hold up you might be able to find one a little cheaper. As for me im happy with my 34 tooth crank and the x.o on the rear. What more do you realy need?
as for grezza question i think it might work with out the shifter if the paws spring out (if the not pulled out by the shifter) because if you take the cable out the paws will just sit on the over drive ring(sun gear) position giving you 1 gear could always fit an old school road shifter down on the frame close to your cranks get the cables out of the way for dh then
until every bike company gets on board with frame design that won't cause the cranks to hit swing arms and the right ISCG tabs this will be limited at best.... will probably be the standard in about 4 years or so but for right now it will be rare. agreed with the crappy ISIS like set up and cranks.... get something similar to hollowtech or race face and it would be gold.
ashmtbman, That is exactly how the bike I rode with the Schlump was set up and it was perfect. I could hammer the level stuff in the higher ration and then hit the lower stuff for the hills instead of killing myself. On the descents I just let gravity do the work and pump the terrain. I've always been a gears man but on my ideal trails my ideal bike would rock such a setup.
Without ISCG frame tabs it's a dead duck anyway.
Nice idea, shame the market is so limited at present. It'll take a push from all the bike companies adding ISCG tabs to their AM frames to make h'schizzit really take off.
i think its gonna have a few teething problems as with most new things. but in the end when shimano and other companies get onto it there will be one sweet new drivetrain for us all to druel over. lol
No but I have slammed my transmission on 4 foot rocks before. I have hung up on logs with it, had debris slam into it. Never broke my lifted trucks tranny. Seems you really have no clue what your talking about. The GT I rode in co had a gear box on it. I beat the snot out of it and never once had an issue.
Next time you try and sound smart at least know what your talking about.
there is my lifted truck. I know ALL about hitting stuff, getting caught up on logs and rocks because I 4wd all the time. Simply put, the transmissions housing has NO effect on the insides integrity. That's the whole point in the transmission case, to protect the internals. SOoooo if your breaking a bikes gear box by hitting rocks it's a POS to begin with. Hitting a rock should have NOTHING to do with shifting. NOTHING. Being the internals are enclosed and not winding open gears on the outside of it.
I'll bet you would never be able to literally break a gear box in half, weather it be on a bike, or on a truck. Simple.
So in the end, it's nothing to do with external strength and everything to do with internal strength... and transmissions have proven to work internally... simple. A gear box is a near 100 years old technology. All that was done is creating a system to make it functional for a bike... but the physical idea of a transmission has been more than proven.
Test rode the all mountian version and it's pretty cool. Lots of clearance and shifting under load. You get use to the backwards shifting fairly quick. The thing i don't like is the Howitzer BB, not my bag as far as BBs go.
The Hammerschmidt IS NOT NEW NOR REVOLUTIONARY!!! For quite a few years a Swiss comapny called Schlumpf has been making dual-speed cranksets. One has a 1.6 overdrive (like Hammerschmidt) and one has 2.5 overdrive! I rode one at this year's Sea Otter on the XC course and it blew my mind, especially since the bike was a single speed (so secretly it was a two speed). I rode an XC version (does not need an ISCG mount!) but a freeride version is in the works. GREZZA! Neither version needs a shifter! You push a button in the middle of the crankset with your heel. It was intuitive after not too long.
Regardless, a dualspeed crankset is a fantastic thing! And the Hammerschmidt brings it to the general public under the marketing power of SRAM. Get one. Ride it. Blow your mind.
What i like most about it is if you have a bike that is really heavy, and you need a lighter gear to pedal, this could be the front gear system to use, because from what i've read you don't need any post mount system to shift.
What are you even talking about? Designing a frame to accommodate a 22 or 24 chainring? Newsflsh- Most freeride frames accommodate double or triple chainrings, which include 22 or 24 granny gears.
Many modern suspension bikes, especially single pivots, have been designed to give you the best compromise of suspension action vs pedal feedback in the middle ring, because that's where you live most of the time (and all of the time if you're a 'single ring and chainguide' type. Although the Hammerschmidt is effectively a middle and granny ring in one unit, it's physically a granny ring (with overdrive) for pedal feedback purposes. If your bike bobs and bucks in the granny ring (something that most of us learn to live with in exchange for supple middle ring riding) then it's going to do just that in both the granny and the overdrive/middle ring... That's what Runner was probably trying to tell you.
I have to disagree, granny ring pedaling gives you the least amount of pedal feedback. You are putting the lowest possible torque on the suspension while riding in the granny gear and therefore should have the lowest pedal feedback. I really do not understand how it is possible the granny would give you more bob than a middle or big. Last bike I had with double rings was a X1 and had significantly less pedal bob in the granny gear.
If you have ever rode a VPP bike in the granny ring you would realise what I'm talking about. BTW, I've not made the above comment up, ask any frame designer. Why do think suspension frame designers struggle to find the optimum pivot placement? Have you ever rode an old school high pivot design? They mostly lock out under power. A constant change of chain position has a huge effect on how the suspension performs under power. Pivot placement is a very engineered process, its not just a case of putting the pivot where ever you want.
Cannot say anything about VPP since I have never ridden one but I can speak of Mastero and Full Floater as those are the two I have ridden with a granny gear. When I dropped it into the granny gear on both those bike I experienced only better pedaling platform. Honestly have never experienced negative effects on suspension in the granny gear when using it for climbing.
In a traditional granny ring you put less torque on the frame since the gearing is so low. But with the hammerschmidt you have the same profile and now much more torque on the frame. This change in ring size will have a profound effect in single pivot bikes that are, like themaninthenorth said, a compromise for pivot location that gives the least pedal feedback and the best axle path for absorbing hits. This is engineered using the most common ring size for the bike i.e. middle ring for a AM bike and a big ring for a DH bike. On most VP and horst link bikes this won't be a problem though.
As much as I enjoy arguing with old people on forums I think I may have lost this argument so I am going to peace out.
This is why I stick to single rings, less problems.
Granny gear produces more torque than bigger rings, that why it's easier to pedal up a hill in your granny. But otherwise timmers is right, it should work just fine on VP and similar suspension designs that use a fancy axle path to minimize pedaling feedback, but not so well on others.
Wow. sounds like a lot of voodoo and hokus pokus engineering to me. Firstly the torque is applied by the riders legs in conjunction with the crank arm length, hence values of newton/meters, foot/pounds etc and that torque is centered through the bb spindle. The gearing at the crank is comparable with whatever sproket you happen to be in at the rear wheel. The torque applied at the cranks is that needed to drive the back wheel round at a certain speed in certain conditions, and no matter what that torque is, it will still be centered on the bottom bracket spindle and will only be the maximum force a riders strength can apply multiplied by the crank arm length. This crankset will not change the way a suspension system works compared to an ordinary crank setup with middle and granny gears having an equvelent number of teeth and the same crank arm length.
"This crankset will not change the way a suspension system works compared to an ordinary crank setup with middle and granny gears having an equvelent number of teeth and the same crank arm length."
The problem is that a regular crankset with a small granny gear like 22 or 24 teeth often doesn't pedal as well as a 34-38 tooth ring because frames are designed to pedal best in the middle ring. There is more pedal feedback in the smaller ring because the frame is not optimized around it. So since the Hammerschmidt is essentially a 22 or 24 tooth ring, regardless of whether you are running overdrive or not, it will not pedal as nicely as a 36 (or so) tooth ring, unless the frame is actually designed around a 22 or 24 tooth ring. That is why I was saying that manufacturers needed to start designing frames around a smaller chainring size if they want to truly accommodate the H.Schmidt.
(Have I actually gone out and tested it? No. But I am repeating what I have heard many many people say about small chainrings and pedal feedback. I am sure the H.Schmidt works very well either way, but I just wanted to point that out).
The way the frame pedals is not due to the physical size of the chain ring, but to its gearing properties. Therfore in overdrive, the the crank will have the same effect on a frame as a traditional crank running for example a 36 (or 3 tooth ring. The way the frame reacts is not due to chain line or length dut due to the forces applied at the cranks and by a riders pedaling stance and style I can also imagine shorter chain length is possible, which is all good, right?
It will turn into a brake for down hill? Huh? Oh, you meant break. Well, it might break, which is why it is not designed for DH applications. See anyone running a 22T on a race course lately?
there is a race near where i am which is 8 miles downhill with 2miles uphill, the downhill bikes loose to the crosscountry bikes only because they have to hike there bikes up hill cause they dont have the gearing, this would be sweet for that race, but pointless for most downhill races which are all *down*hill
145 Comments
The MSRP is not hundreds more than normal either.
When you figure how much cranks cost and that you can ditch an extra derailleur and get seamless shifting, you cant go wrong.
No chain suck or dropped chains or missed shifts.
Just good ol greasy goodness.
And why the F3ck does every thing have to be SICK or Gnarly?
You guys are such trend whores you even talk trendy.
Talk like you have an once of a brain for once.
Its bad enough you ignorant shits are always arguing about what country is better or who's bike is better and always trash talking each other.
Put down the sandwich and go build a trail, cuz im sure lots of you don't ride much.
Build a trail for those of us who do.
That would be SICK.
probably wouldnt work but its an idea
Those words have been used in similar context since the early 90's. You my friend are just out of date and find a need to bitch at someone for using a term. So I'll use em both again for you...
That SICK bike, is SO sick that it looks gnarly enough to handle the sick gnarly trails a sick gnarly bike would normally use.
super tech course? run the smaller ring for excerating in and out of rock gardens
big open course? a 42 tooth to pin it
Expect things to be just like everything else and watch the price go down after more versions come out. The same as how all the douchebags picked up the first Iphone the week it came out and spent like 600$ and then months later a whole improved and new Iphone came out for half the price.
If you don't like the 800$ just shhh and wait until its cheap. Until then the gadget and new tech whores can rave all they want to about these. Heck I sure know I'd spend the money on them If I had a better job or cheaper rent.
our most common workshop job is replacing blown Truvativ Howizter setups (Ruktion, Hussefelt and Howizter) with Shimano Hone, SLX and Saint..
Truvativ cranks and Howziter B/B = no sale
shame...would like to try it with Saint HT2 cranks
Always been that way. From pedals that break, to crappy cranks for dh. They make xc, am, and road stuff. The saint stuff just isn't as strong as they claim. Partly because they are still new compared to the r/f cranks and haven't had the many years it takes for solid reviews.
Screw buying new cranks and bb's every season. I'm tired of that crap. Steel is real, go buy profiles. (we proved alum cranks don't work in bmx racing. The guys running saint generally have the carbon frames and forks and are not worried about re buying bikes every season... but for the ones who have to support their own hobby, profiles are the crank of choice. Cheap, run smoother than any alum crank bb (even phil bb's), and will last forever. Simple. Problem solved.
primo power/hollow bites one of bmxes most popular cranks in the uk, made from alu
i am not sure i trust your statement
quote "we proved alum cranks don't work"
seems you may be wrong possibly
My buddies all had them on their dirt jumpers also. Rock solid.
But anyways they also weighed as much as my profile dj cranks so you were not saving weight by running aluminum. They were stiff and rarely snapped due to how big they were. Street riders didnt like them because of grinding chunks off during pedal grinds.
I still have my super cut primo mustache bars in the garage also
Run primo pedals on all my bikes also. Heck everything that comes from Primo is top notch. By far the best bike company on the planet and I'll for ever swear by that.
For the time being, I run a 2x8 and bash guard on my Banshee Scream, and it works great. BIke Park or FR, it's terrific. It might be old but it doesn't slow me down.
As for my 5" trailbike, I can't part with my 44T. Sorry, SRAM.
Have fun with your high taxes zap. Even though I'm half british I must say that you guys really do have most things basackwards.
as for grezza question i think it might work with out the shifter if the paws spring out (if the not pulled out by the shifter) because if you take the cable out the paws will just sit on the over drive ring(sun gear) position giving you 1 gear could always fit an old school road shifter down on the frame close to your cranks get the cables out of the way for dh then
It seems like a superb idea, Sram are really on it at the moment.
It's for freeride and all mountian. Most DHers use a single front ring any way."
yeah ofcourse, but if you want 2 front gears, will it hold together, that was the question.
but
you could
maybe convert
a single speed bike into a two geard bike with this
just a thought dont think i would tho : /
Yea transmissions are proven. Sure they go out with enough time, but deraillurs and shifters do as well.
there is my lifted truck. I know ALL about hitting stuff, getting caught up on logs and rocks because I 4wd all the time. Simply put, the transmissions housing has NO effect on the insides integrity. That's the whole point in the transmission case, to protect the internals. SOoooo if your breaking a bikes gear box by hitting rocks it's a POS to begin with. Hitting a rock should have NOTHING to do with shifting. NOTHING. Being the internals are enclosed and not winding open gears on the outside of it.
I'll bet you would never be able to literally break a gear box in half, weather it be on a bike, or on a truck. Simple.
So in the end, it's nothing to do with external strength and everything to do with internal strength... and transmissions have proven to work internally... simple. A gear box is a near 100 years old technology. All that was done is creating a system to make it functional for a bike... but the physical idea of a transmission has been more than proven.
That would be nice for Dirt jumpers and Slopestyle riders.
Regardless, a dualspeed crankset is a fantastic thing! And the Hammerschmidt brings it to the general public under the marketing power of SRAM. Get one. Ride it. Blow your mind.
can u use all mountains for freeride/dh?
Designing a frame to accommodate a 22 or 24 chainring? Newsflsh- Most freeride frames accommodate double or triple chainrings, which include 22 or 24 granny gears.
That's what Runner was probably trying to tell you.
Firstly the torque is applied by the riders legs in conjunction with the crank arm length, hence values of newton/meters, foot/pounds etc and that torque is centered through the bb spindle.
The gearing at the crank is comparable with whatever sproket you happen to be in at the rear wheel.
The torque applied at the cranks is that needed to drive the back wheel round at a certain speed in certain conditions, and no matter what that torque is, it will still be centered on the bottom bracket spindle and will only be the maximum force a riders strength can apply multiplied by the crank arm length.
This crankset will not change the way a suspension system works compared to an ordinary crank setup with middle and granny gears having an equvelent number of teeth and the same crank arm length.
The problem is that a regular crankset with a small granny gear like 22 or 24 teeth often doesn't pedal as well as a 34-38 tooth ring because frames are designed to pedal best in the middle ring. There is more pedal feedback in the smaller ring because the frame is not optimized around it. So since the Hammerschmidt is essentially a 22 or 24 tooth ring, regardless of whether you are running overdrive or not, it will not pedal as nicely as a 36 (or so) tooth ring, unless the frame is actually designed around a 22 or 24 tooth ring.
That is why I was saying that manufacturers needed to start designing frames around a smaller chainring size if they want to truly accommodate the H.Schmidt.
(Have I actually gone out and tested it? No. But I am repeating what I have heard many many people say about small chainrings and pedal feedback. I am sure the H.Schmidt works very well either way, but I just wanted to point that out).
The way the frame reacts is not due to chain line or length dut due to the forces applied at the cranks and by a riders pedaling stance and style
I can also imagine shorter chain length is possible, which is all good, right?
aerox-mountainbiking.blogspot.com
it's probably guna cost a bomb but i still want it
Oh, you meant break.
Well, it might break, which is why it is not designed for DH applications. See anyone running a 22T on a race course lately?
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