carljamespatton

That’s nonsensical. Cutting corners saves time, being given this drug doesn’t.

@amonas. don’t underestimate your IQ? The truth of this matter is not something you can determine with your ‘IQ’. That’s just you saying you know better than the doping agencies with specialised knowledge who conducted a thorough investigation, using very specific information, because your IQ makes you the best at guessing.

Yeah , totally agree islandforlife. @ReddyKilowatt: nah they don’t sag similar amounts at all. Even ignoring the fact that most riders would set their rear with 25-30% and forks 15-20% sag on the flat, once you point steeply uphill you’re likely to have at least 35% sag at the rear and 5% to almost none at the front, if you’re seated on a bike with a slack seat angle (that’s what working hard to keep the front end down feels like). Try that with 160 travel front and rear and the bike’s attitude changes considerably. If you do more seated pedaling on the flat then set your bike up for that, but if more of your seated time is pointed uphill, the set your seated position up for that.

Nice work Matt. I mainly don’t like lockouts (because they make the bike slow and tiring on rough uphills and I forget to unlock them before turning down, and what if the track is undulating? So much thinking required!) but you made a good case. Imagine a device that would provide two distinctly different antisquat levels? One with lots of antisquat for smooth uphills and one with much less antisquat for downhills (and rough tech uphills)? All we’d need is two differently sized chainrings and a way to change between the two! Front derailleurs did have some pluses, along with with their not insignificant minuses.

I reckon you can get a pretty good approximation of seated position just by zooming in on a standard studio profile image of the bike (not a review photo - these are more likely to be not perfectly lined up straight). So long as the wheel axles are lined up horizontally, and you know how high you run your bars (most manufacturers tend to photograph the seat level with the bars), zoom in until the tip of the seat lines up with the edge of your screen. Then see how far behind the bb the seat is. Depending on the seat, I know I prefer 30mm or less behind the bb. You can check your own bike in real life just by lining the bb up with a (straight!) door frame, then measuring how far behind it the tip of the seat is. Sure, some seats might be a touch shorter than others (this method wouldn’t work with a specialized power saddle for example) but it’s good enough to see if you can get the seat where you want it within the limits of saddle rail adjustment.