Newmen are a small brand from the Allgäu region of Germany, very close to the Alps. And while some of you may not have heard of them, they've been featured on Pinkbike multiple times and received praise for their functional, clever approach to product development. Despite being a small outfit, they design, engineer, and test a hell of a lot in-house; 80% of their hub machining is done across the road from their headquarters. Their aluminum Evolution A.30 wheels received
high praise a year ago for their no-nonsense approach with solid performance, and now its the carbon fiber Advanced SL A.30 that we're looking at.
Newmen continued along the path of strong and light aluminum wheels, never really thinking that a carbon fiber rim would make much sense for enduro or DH applications. But customers and fans of Newmen pushed hard for exactly this, and Newmen decided to oblige.
Advanced SL A.30 DetailsIntended use: Enduro
Wheel sizes: 27.5" & 29"
Rim material: Carbon fiber
Hub specs: Newmen Fade, 15 x 110mm front & 12 x 148mm rear
Spokes: 28 x Sapim D-Light, 2.0 - 1.65 - 2.0mm
Disc mount: Centre Lock
Weight: 740g front & 877g rear (29” actual, Micro Spline freehub)
Price: €680 front & €770 rear
More info: Newmen Components Features & Details Newmen's original plan was to engineer a set of carbon fiber wheels for XC, trail, and light all-mountain use, but what emerged was a rim that was standing up to enduro use. The new Advanced SL A.30 is the carbon fiber rimmed wheelset that came out of this story.
Newmen are happy to say that no mountain bike product is indestructible, with each having its own limits. And their transparency to this must be appreciated, as it's only due to the current pandemic situation that we couldn't do a factory visit to see the limits of their wheelset in their lab and see behind the curtain of how they develop their products. But as soon as the borders open and restrictions lift, we'll be heading to Germany to check that out.
The rims have an inner width of 30mm and use Newman’s flared-out flange design to align the material of the rim wall more in line with the oncoming impacts from the terrain. Rim profile is relatively shallow, at 20mm, which Newmen state helps maintain a good ride quality. Reducing the profile height further would then give them problems with impact resistance. There is also a molded channel in the rim to help keep the tire bead in place and reduce burping issues.
The wheels use Sapim D-Light spokes which go down to 1.65mm in the middle and 2.0mm at either end. Newmen did this to build-in some more compliance compared to the more common 2.0 - 1.8 - 2.0 spokes on the market. They also say that these thinner gauge spokes are strong enough for enduro use, and the wheels use the same spoke length all around: 304mm for the 29" version I have on test.
Newmen like to have durable products and so build their hubs with minimal clearances and tighter seals to ensure a longer lifespan than wheels with minimal friction out of the box. Their bearings are packed with a relatively thick grease, too. This means that out of the box their wheels would give the impression of a little more friction, but with some bedding in they will spin just fine while maintaining that performance for a long time.
The Fade hub now uses a pawl style freehub design with a large diameter driver to reduce the forces seen going through the pawls and ratchet ring. The freehub has 36 points of engagement for two reasons. One is to have a more robust design, bringing durability to normal bikes and e-bikes alike. Newmen say they've seen reduced durability in their testing with higher points of engagement. The second point relates to their consideration of MTB suspension and they become another wheel manufacturer to talk about this, something that shows the level of engineering behind their products.
A hub with higher points of engagement will be more prone to the effects of pedal kickback from chain elongation. Inversely, a hub with low points of engagement will pedal not particularly well. Newmen use 36 points of engagement as a good balance between the two, allowing fast enough pick-up for when you need to engage the freehub and pedal while not having hugely detrimental effects from pedal kickback in the speeds and situations that it may happen. They, as a company, like bikes with a little more anti-squat for an efficient pedaling response, and so the added possibility of kickback that can come with this is something that they took on board when balancing the factors involved in the hub design.
The pawl design in the freehub is intended to be a little quieter than some others, as the guys at Newmen are also fans of having as quiet a bike as possible. Shimano Micro Spline, standard Shimano HG, and SRAM XD driver options are available.
Accompanying the Advanced SL A.30 wheelset is Newman’s own tubeless strip and a Milkit tubeless kit, which allows you to keep an eye on your sealant level without taking the tire off. Rim graphics are applied under the clear coat and match the polished aluminum look of the hubs nicely. The front wheel comes in at 740-grams with the rear wheel coming in at 877-grams (Micro Spline freehub). A rear wheel with the XD freehub weighs 871-grams.
Installation & Setup Unfortunately, the tubeless rim strip and Milkit kit were not available when we received the wheels, so I taped them up with another brand's tubeless tape and valves to get going on them. Taping is really easy but does require a little more concentration than normal. I kept the tape from going into the outer molded channels in the rim, rather than tape over them. We'll give some feedback on the Newmen rim strip and Milkit kit in our full review on the wheels.
Tire fitting was a doddle and they seated with only a few gentle pushes on a track pump. The interface between the rim and a new tire is nice and tight, and even with a set of used tires there were no issues in getting them to seat on the rims.
Newmen did supply a hub end cap removal tool for aiding in swapping the freehub body, but it wasn't needed as the end caps could be swapped by hand. The rest of the setup and installation was a simple process. I ran 6-bolt rotors on the hubs, with a converter down to the Centre Lock fitment on the hubs. All in all, pretty easy and no issues at all in getting the wheels converted to my brake and drivetrain configuration.
Initial Riding Impressions Out on the trail, the wheels come across as feeling comfortable when you need comfort and supportive enough for when you need the wheels to remain strong and not fold under you. They remind me of a few sets of aluminum DT Swiss 1501 Spline One that I have. This is in no way a bad thing, as they just quietly go about doing their job while you're riding. Speaking of quiet, the freehub is notably a few decibels lower than some other hubs out there, regardless of freehub design. There have been no freehub slips or weird noises when really on the pedals and putting a lot of force through it. It's a personal preference, but I've not been left wanting more than 36-teeth for the enduro riding that I do or that the wheels are aimed at.
From the riding I've done so far, there they don't exhibit any surprising tendencies to store and suddenly release energy back to you, and despite hearing a couple of rim hits there are no visible signs of any damage. Newman’s claim to have a wheelset burly enough to endure the rigors of enduro riding are so far holding true.
The low weight of the wheels is also a very nice characteristic, coming in at 80-grams less than the DT Swiss EXC 1200s I reviewed at the beginning of the year. There's a noticeable riding effect from this, with less weight at the extremities of the wheels, especially given my love for DH tires and having less unsprung mass for the suspension to react with.
Ridden in the absolute bone dry and sketchy-as-hell wet, the Newmen wheels just keep on quietly going about their job. As yet, there's been zero issues with the rim, spoke tension, and hubs. Our lifts in Champéry are opening in a month so then we'll have more opportunities to push the extremes of the test. It will be interesting to see if that balance of stability and comfort that we've experienced so far continues with repeated runs down the vertical berm downhill tracks and longer, more punishing descents in the area. It will also be interesting to see the performance of the rims, with their flared side walls when the rims will inevitably encounter more impacts.
I'll continue to ride the Newmen Advanced SL A.30 wheels a bunch and report back with a full review on their performance and how they compare to some of the other carbon fiber rimmed enduro wheelsets out there.
She would prefer a wider version (with her weight it could withstand Enduro level abuse), but I understand they don't want people to safe grams in the wrong place, getting the rims messed up by too aggressive and heavy riders and risking their reputation.
It's a pity though, those lighter riders don't get the wheels they need for that reason.
to Seinfeld....
(such rims do exist)
im getting 1-2 years riding out of cheap carbon rear rims of less weight and wider internal width compared to a few months from heavier narrower aluminum dh rims. hard to argue with that IMO
During our development process we have been able to improve the strength of the flanges a lot over the time. Due to the layup process being automated we also have a very low chance for mistakes/errors in during the production process.
In the end we have a wheelset which weighs in at 1600g for 29" and is durable enough for the EWS riders from the Cube Action Team. Feel free to check out Zakarias Johansens latest instagram post if you want to see what they have to hold up in the real world: www.instagram.com/p/B_2mCwrnjJj
If you use an aluminium rim for proper enduro racing it will always get small dents und flat spots. With the carbon fiber rim you can always true it to perfect spoke tension and side/height deviation again. They just don't wear the same way alloy wheels do IF they hold up.
The (higly ineducated) end i came up with is that carbon rims might be great (or al least offer tangible riding advantages) on alu (and more noodley) frames and offer (at best) marginal advantages on carbon (uber stiff) frames.
The purpose of a carbon wheel would be a lighter and stiffer wheel.
Weight is the same as alu or even more if you add inserts.
Stiffer is good if you race, otherwise it could even be too uncomfortable.
Just put some inner tubes, 2.1 tires, 23ID rim, higher pressure and there you go... stiffer, lighter, more responsive wheel.
In my opinion a custom wheel by a good wheelbuilder - made according to your riding style and weight – it is way better and 1/3 of the price. And it will last much longer.
And you say marginal advantage at best : / nahh.
i have ridden steel hardtail carbon AM bikes aluminum AM bike and DH bike with carbon rims. yes they are stiffer, many of them to a fault. That is why things are trending toward praising rims that "feel compliant as aluminum" (radially) carbon rims deflect less, causing hard riders to get less plane distortion from their bikes, which throws us off line less. Also carbon rims deform the rim radially less from pedaling forces which makes for a snappier quicker acceleration, in addition to the lighter rotating weight which is well established as important.
@lexdamis ppl spend 100's on flashy riding gear, expensive knicknacks, and 1000's on bikes. wheels are hugely important part of a bicycle and not the place to skimp on getting reasonably reliable component.
@RedRedRe you might want to get your well tested for lead, cause carbons weight is NOT the same as aluminum. carbon is lighter and stronger, without a doubt. aluminum wheels dent without inserts. carbon rims dont dent without inserts. both will cut tires with similar ease without inserts. I use carbon rims with schwalbe procore which is lighter than aluminum rim of same strength and width without an insert, never mind that i can run single ply tires with that setup in harsh terrain, which saves a a lb of rotating weight and 40usd on every set of tires. a good aluminum wheel will not last longer, you are absolutely off your rocker.
@newmencomponents @dan-roberts
Do you have any testing or explanation to how you came to the opinion that less points of engagement results in less pedal kickback?
I'm happy to be proved wrong, but if companies are going to make bold claims, there needs to be good quality evidince/science/testing behind it, rather than just a statement.
The trouble is with those two assumptions is that what type of bike riding is it? Is it bouncing in the car park nodding to the marketing person?
When moving at higher speeds, kick back is pretty much a non issue, since the angular velocity of the freehub is usually a lot larger than the angular acceleration due to kick back, so even a hub with infinite engagement points wouldnt engage and therefore not cause kick back.
But based on Steve from Vorspung's video on pedal kickback (linked below)... while a wheel is spinning the freehub is disengaged and so POI has zero effect on pedal kickback. And while you are pedaling, the hub is fully engaged and so no matter the POI you'll feel pedal kickback as the the suspension compresses... and actually with a lower POI, while pedaling, when your suspension rebounds your pedal has farther to drop away from your foot (worse on flat pedals), with a higher POI, this happens to a lesser degree.
Obviously I'm not the sciencetist / engineer / physics nerd and may be misintertrepting this info... and you explain it in more detail please?
Great video on pedal kickback with visual aids - www.youtube.com/watch?v=grNUgu0H9YA
Everyone should watch it all but the most relevant sections are : From the beginning to about 2:46 and at the 10:00 minute mark.
In the end, there is a reason why those fancy high pivot DH bikes use idler pulleys
Can have all the theories and calculations, but the data shows you what is really happening.
Fairly sure I've seen Pierrons bike with a power meter last season. Cecile has had a Quarq brake disc:
www.pinkbike.com/news/cecile-ravanels-quarq-electronic-brake-monitor-val-de-sole-dh-world-cup-2017.html
It's certainly the best time to be alive as a mtber, even with the lockdown in place. Well done Newman, I will certainly be looking into these wheels for my next set .
Also, can you share a noise demo? Considering buying the FADE hubs next week, not been happy with DT ratchet hubs, especially their noise.
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You could argue that by design, they're stronger (they do not have that weak spot created by the bend) and can on paper deal with a higher tension.
There might be a thing with energy transfer although it's going to be ridiculously negligible on a mtb in my opinion.
They are slightly easier to replace when broken, if saving a couple seconds is a big deal.
In reality, many premium hub brands do not even consider the straight pull option.
J-bend spokes do not unwind themselves that much under compression. Or during tensioning, as they simply cannot spin on themselves (thus allowing to tension them more if possible). They also offer more lacing options.
J-bends are way more common and therefore way easier to find in bike shops.
It depends on personal preference and the type of riding. For proper gravity riding, J-bend and the obvious brass nipples are in my opinion the way to go.
as for strength.. the bend in the J bend spokes flexes to add compliance to the wheel as a whole.
so the debate goes, is a stiffer wheel or a more compliant wheel stronger?
my wheel builder hates straight pull an I trust his opinion.
as mentioned above, there's a lot of high end hub/wheel manufacturers that don't use straight pull.........
make of that what you will as plenty of peeps will argue for both sides
Building wheels on DT or Hope hubs with DT Comps or Sapims DB, brass prolocks and any quality alu rim (i.e. Spank Race, DT ??1 series, Newmen or 600 - 800 Mavics) does the job god damn well without breaking the bank, carrying too much weight and risking frequent failures. 500-650€ and you’re damn well off. Superstar wheels have bad reputation and I acknowledge that, but my switches just refuse to die. I am lucky I know. Many want to have even fancier hubs, fine, but they cannot expect any reliable above that 500-650 range. It is unrealistic. So is experiencing 100-200g weight drop by using carbon rims and aero spokes. You buy feeling of having cool stuff and I fully respect that.
been on that road before and they are like boats.
You have 2 great days in life.
the day you buy and the day you sell them.
That being said, Newmen are EXCEPTIONAL to deal with, in both cases the issues were sorted out in the same day I reported the problem and I got replacements in the same week. WOW.
The new Fade hub looks _extremely_ beefy in the freehub area, and the main bearings are nice and big 6903.
So far with dt start ratchet no problem with the same set of hubs for over 5 years.
I also can state that since 2009 no DT star ratchet ever made problems for me, just thinking if the 54T is any good..
- further improved reliability
- less noise
- strong enough for e-bike use
Evaluating our options with in house lab testing of various prototypes and also competitor hubs we have come to the conclusion that a large designed pawl system is the only way to combine all of the above for us. for once star ratchet drivers are inherently noise and also we believe that a well designed pawl system is more reliable. With a star ratchet system it CAN happen that the ratchets don't fully engage and then when you only put down slight power the ratchets will be damaged. With a pawl system when only one pawl engages (you always have to expect that something CAN go wrong), if you dont have a peak force right at the time where not all pawls were engaging (very slim chance) nothing will be damaged. Especially after doing a lot of testing with e-bikes (yes we know not everyone likes them) we figure that the more reliable option is a large and well designed pawl system.
The fade hubs are now an easy choice over Carbon Ti, Hope RS4 and all of DT's offerings.