Fox Release 200mm Drop Transfer Seatpost

 Gotta stop foxing around with these puns

 These puns have their ups and downs.

 We really need to drop this pun habit...it's not even remotely funny.

 I'm only 5'9 so this is unlikely to Aeffect my future buying decisions.

 I'm not sure why I even read the article. I couldn't really give a doss.

 Came here for the puns, left feeling revived

 You'd have to be Manic to buy a post that Commands this kind of price.

 Nobody is going to be able to one up that pun!

 Sadly, I don't have enough Kashima bank account to buy this.

 @stovechunin: Sorry Dude, that was meant to be an upvote. Fat fingers.

 It's taken a while for Fox to rise to the occasion. They didn't exactly move the gold posts.

 Will you be paying kash?

 The quality of these puns is really dropping here

 Absolutely - way better than Oneup (yes, I know there is a price difference). My 3 year old Transfer has been simply fantastic; my newer OneUp not so much

 Second best behind BikeYoke Revive.

 Best in the business if you conveniently forget PNW, OneUp and BikeYoke.

 I have two Transfers and they've been solid for 2-3 years.

 @stuie321: agree 3 years with transfer no problem a month with one up and I got problems already.

 2 Transfers here. One on a Druid, the other on a Honzo. The Druid has two full seasons of 5 day a week riding. Zero maintenance. Zero issues. Rock solid. Buying 2 more for my fat bikes that I am eagerly awaiting.

 Not even really that expensive. Middle to maybe mid-high on price, really.

 Not even remotely close to a bikeyoke revive

 I’ve had Transfer factories, bike yoke revives and one ups amoungst others like reverbs and budget models.


For operation (ie smoothness, ease to deploy) Bike yoke Revive the clear winner, then transfer, then one up. One up is just not as smooth as the other two.

Bike yoke win again for reliability and ease of servicing.

One up is 1/2 the price of the other two though, so if you take that into consideration, I’d put it in second place and transfer in 3rd...

 @Mntneer: that was very smoooth

 Agreed, I had a Transfer on my old bike (until I sold it) for close to 4 years and it worked just as well at the end as when I bought it. Though I will say I love the PNW on my new bike

 mark me down with those happy with fox performance. even my OG Transfer is still solid. Good feel imho too. That said, historically they were long tho and tougher to fit. Splitting my ride time w/ a BikeYoke which has been impressive so far.

 @IllestT
Mine always lets me down too...But gets me right back up quickly!!

 5 years of riding the external cable 125 transfer has been great. No problems in the cold and has never been serviced. Less than one year or riding the internal 150 (black stanchion) has led to stuck post when the temp is below 50ish degrees F. Also leaking out of the lip seal recently. Minnesota has seen some extreme temp swings this month

 Had a Transfer post for 2 years and a half, had to send it to Fox after 2 years because it had started to sag under my weight. Switched to a One Up v2 on my new bike and so far so good but only put half a season on it. The Fox service cost is the main reason I didn't buy another one. The Transfer felt like it was better made when I was holding it in my hands but on the trail I can't tell the difference.

 I bought a Fox Transfer post because of the rave reviews but mine has been trouble from the start. The return speed has always been too slow for my liking but a few months in and it's not returning to the top unless I bump it down first. Service is expensive and requires proprietary tools. Never again will I buy one.

 @PhillipJ: third best behind Yep. Then bike yoke. Then fox

 Same here had a fox transfer near 4 years on my bike with 2 services and working like new just a new cable each year that’s all. Expensive to buy but cost effective over time

 @enduroFactory:
I’ve had a bike yoke for 3 years and it works like day 1, with no services...

 Some of us are taller than 5' 9"

 Forbidden Druid allows for about 190mm of slam on a size L.

 "I guess it is merely for the very tall folk."

Um, yeah, pretty much.

 @racecase: I could run a 210 mm and I’m only 5 10

 Another data point: I'm 6'2" on an XL frame with a not exactly a short seat tube (Intense Sniper) and my 210 OneUp has about an inch of space below the collar out of the frame still--those of us with crazy long legs are thankful.

 I Just installed a 210mm OneUp on my 2021 S5 Stumpy Evo and It still has nearly 4" of 'fixed post" out of the frame....
I am 6'1" and have a saddle height of 810mm so I am not crazy tall. I see dropper lengths growing quite considerably, especially with more and more bikes with short seat tubes coming out.

 Make no mistake, the quality of the Fox Transfer is significantly better than the OneUp. I've already had two fail on me. Never had a problem with a Fox Transfer.

 As one of the mentioned "tall folk" the longer travel droppers are a life saver, I have one of the OneUp 210mm posts and still have a few inches of post sticking out...

 I can bottom this out on my Large Rascal frame. currently running it with 50mm of post exposed. im 5'10''

 @SikeMo: I had a factory Transfer 150mm and only swapped for a Oneup for better insertion and more drop. The Fox was flawless for 3 years. I usually have to add pressure to my oneup every couple months.

 @racecase: yes.....like me. I'd love to be able to use a 210, but won't insert in anything. Still great for the really tall folk. at 6'1" though, a 180mm will have to do for now.

 @just6979: But with more insertion on frames, it could work for only moderately tall folk! I'd love to use a 210 at 6'1" but can't take advantage of it.

 @SikeMo: it's not 2x better though. which is what the price difference would otherwise denote. it's like 10% better. lol

the OneUp is god damn mint @$200 retail.

 It has more to do with leg length (and seat tube length) than overall height. Some of us are cursed with long torsos and short legs, I'm 6'1" and can only run a 125mm dropper on my Intense Sniper L frame.

Although maybe it isn't so bad for us since our center of gravity is already lower than those with long legs? Guess I should just ride and have fun.

 @conoat: I bought a OneUp based on that assumption too. But no price savings is worth the hours I spent riding with a sticky dropper after hitting a mud puddle. Or the time spent taking it out of the frame to re-inflate etc.

I've heard they made them better with the 2nd generation, but they'd have to be SIGNIFICANTLY better for me to try one again. I honestly just went back to the factory Reverb because it was more reliable...let that sink in.

 @conoat: I've had nothing but issues with my OneUp V1, you are right that they are great ... when they are working. The biggest annoyance is how sensitive they are to clamp pressure, anywhere near enough clamping force to keep the post from turning or slipping and it'll drop but not return.

 @cueTIP: I have had a V2 for 2 years. not one issue. ever

I am sure there is a good reason all the complaints are about V1, and they bothered to make a V2. lol

 @montananate: no clue about the V1, but the V2 is solid

 @SikeMo: yep two blown cartridges in 5 months of ownership, great price but back to fox I go

 @fullendurbro: that's what she said.

 @denson-91: Agree. I have the opposite issue - long legs and short torso. Long dropper is a must. Frame manufacturers have such low stand over on shorter reach bikes now, that I max out even the longest posts.

 6'4 on a size XL Mondraker Foxy. I've got the 210mm OneUp slammed and it is a perfect fit. Granted, my cycling inseam is 36" and I am a very awkwardly proportioned human.

 The tall folks are waiting for a 220-230mm

 @cueTIP: why did you take it out of the frame to inflate it? The schrader valve is under the seat.

 You could always get a Knolly... nice long straight seat tubes.

 @SikeMo: how did they fail? Considering buying one for a lighter rider

 @denson-91: Same here, 5'11" but with a 753mm saddle height so I had to shim down a OneUp to 170mm and have it at the max insertion.

 @Alvey72: What frame? I'm 5'10" with a 740mm saddle height, running a 210 with ~30mm of exposed post below the collar.

 @SikeMo: my OneUp V1 got sticky. I emailed OneUp and they quickly sent me a new upper bushing. I had no issues after that. I then had a V2 and it was flawless over a year, including some truly horrendous weather.

 @SikeMo: Maybe the Fox is better, but my Transfer post started rattling after two years, and it was Impossible to service it myself. Fox takes ,~120€ for a rebuild, so I sold it and bought a Oneup210, which works ok for 1.5yrs now.

 @lhodgson: Yeah but that frame has a really short seattube, which is good!

 @Maestroman87: I'm the same size and have a OneUp 210 with room to spare in my YT Jeffsy XL, 460mm seattube. It really depends on the seattube length more then on your length

 @denson-91: It's less bad. I'm 6'1 with long legs. With a 125mm dropper the saddle is still at bar height on a trail bike and it's really in the way.

 @cueTIP: I have the OneUp V1 in one bike and the V2.1 in the other and yes, it's SIGNIFICANTLY better.

 @makkelijk: Nice! It seems like most manufacturers still insist of some sort of kink or pivot bolt interference in their seat tubes. Good to hear a Jeffsy can be slammed with a 210.

 Even SC Nomad v4 in size M works perfectly fine with 210mm One Up.

 I want a 37 pound trail bike like the late 90's.

 @BrambleLee: A size L Banshee Titan, which admittedly doesn't have the best insertion

 @conoat: Well... 2x price is a bit of a stretch. You can get 10-15% off of a Fox just by asking a retailer. Probably because they have the margin built into the price... not so much on the OneUp. But, you get what you pay for in this situation... the Fox is undeniably better in terms of hands on quality, operational quality, and longevity.

My OneUp V2 has been sticky from the start (3 months now), I’m not sure how long it will last... but there is always a little bit of disappointment when actuating it.

My Fox Transfer (2 years old) is still smooth and has that satisfying knock when it quickly reaches full extension.

 @oldfaith: both had cartridge issues. Both were V2's. I've had a 30.9 and a 31.6. The 31.6 was significantly more reliable, but maybe I was just lucky.

 @SikeMo: 2 out of the 3 total posts I've had fail on me were both transfers, 2 days and 2 months old (#3 was a reverb). I've got two OneUp posts (seperate bikes), and these are going hard with zero complaints after 16 & 19 months respectively. Go figure?!

 @Alvey72: Banshee Rune here, using a 180mm stuck out a couple inches to suit me. The insertion length isnt the best, but much better then the last generation Giant Reign I had that couldn't fit more than 150mm drop for me.

 @Maestroman87: very true! The reign and Trance had extremely short insertion depths

 I'm 6'5" and use a 100mm dropper. I wouldn't mind more drop, but it definitely doesn't slow me down at all.

 I used to think 125mm was great, why would I need 150. Then I got a 150, then I thought 150 was great, who would need a 170? Then by the time I got my 170, I learned the lesson and kept my eyes out for more. Love my 210.

 Getting the seat down 100mm is a huge benefit, anything after that gives diminished returns for most trail riding, I think. Jumping is probably a different story but I usually keep my wheels on the ground.

 @nzstormer: A 170mm dropper for someone 5' 9" (me) is literally lower than what I ran my saddle on my DH bike back in the day (remember those?)

 @denson-91: I used to live somewhere relatively flat and didn't understand why dropper were such a big deal.

Living out west yeah getting the saddle all the way out of the way is a must.

 @denson-91: Jumping is definitely a different story. Being able to suck the bike up close to you without having the saddle hit your butt and send you nose heavy is a lifesaver. Especially when you’re working to clear a jump and coming up just a titch short (casing and landing your gooch on the tire sucks). The more drop the better.

 No, but you yahoos show up every time one of these posts gets announced. Obviously 400mm droppers will be mandatory in 2021 and your 100mm dropper will be confiscated by the authorities. It’s not like shorter travel posts aren’t available for you.

The 200mm is for tall people and people who like a longer dropper posts when riding steep terrain.

 @bike-nerd: my bike has a 212 and I’d swap it for a 240 if anyone made one. That seat can just get lost.

 I'm 6'3" and a 150mm dropper gives me exactly the same saddle height I run on my DH bike. But I run a taller saddle height than most. So does Greg Minnaar.

 I ideally need 28 inches from the bottom bracket center to the seat top. So, if you're running a 15 inch seat tube frame, that means ideally I would have a 330mm dropper post. So to answer your question, "yes" the bigger the dropper, the better, for me. You don't, "HAVE TO" just, like, ideally.

 It probably depends on what you're used to, what amount of room your body expects to have over the bike. It doesn't just go for jumping but also for cornering and even just bailing. I'm about 6ft tall, my bike has a 400mm seattube and my saddle rails are maybe 5cm above the clamp, at most. If I'd want my saddle at XC height I'd have to extend the seatpost 300mm. Which just goes as it is a 400mm seatpost so this leaves the required minimum of 100mm inside the seattube. But I never raise the saddle so my mind kind of expects to have this amount of room available for moving around. I rode some friends' bikes whose saddles (when dropped) were slightly higher and even though I should technically be fine with it, it felt odd and constrained. At the extreme end of course we have the traditional XC racers who can do just fine even with a high saddle and it doesn't seem to bother them. So it isn't maybe that much that "need" is strictly related to how tall the rider is or even the type of trails. It is largely a matter of preference and experience. If I'd do epic riding which would include longer stretches of non-technical stuff (like marathon racing), I might indeed like to raise my saddle at times and would consider a dropper. But in my case such a dropper would indeed have to have close to 300mm of travel to cover both positions (regular low as well as full XC height). And that's me at 6ft tall. I can imagine a taller rider with a similar style may have a higher "low" setting but also a much higher XC setting. Yet at the same time of course, there are people shorter than me who are perfectly fine with a "low" setting that's higher than how I have it.

TL;DR: It isn't just about how tall a rider is. It also depends on riding style. Not just for jumping but also for cornering etc.

 @TEAM-ROBOT: Team Robot is Greg Minnar confirmed.

 Imagine if people taller than you existed? I for one can NEVER imagine any tall people wanting to ride bikes.

 @Freakyjon: FAKE NEWS.

 @hamncheez: Yeah, not everyone can use a 210 obviously, but I think the vast majority of people on the vast majority of bikes will enjoy the most drop they can get. I'm 6ft even, but because of long arms I ride an xl. My post is almost against the frame, so I think I've reached the limit of what's possible for me unless they start designing frames around posts (which would be a bad idea).

 With the "im 5'9" and can't decide between large or XL" comments.

 Right here. I want 240. People who are riding XL and XXL frames are able to run longer posts.

 @gafoto: You people just wont be happy until you can run your seat down at your ankles

 Right here. Still waiting for the 300mm. My 210mm dropper is out of the frame beyond the manufacturer's minimum insertion mark.

 @me2menow: Correct. I want the seat to fit into the seatpost and just vanish when I press a button.

In all seriousness when you’re riding really really steep terrain you want the seat completely out of the way. I’m tall enough to need a >200mm post.

 @gafoto: idk dude, I dont usually slam the post on my DH bike

 aqui senor

 @me2menow: 1. Your downhill bike is probably much slacker than your trail bike, and has way more fork travel, making the front end more forgiving and lets you be more aggressive without having to get lower/farther back (than proper technique would dictate) to keep from going OTB on your trail bike in the steep+gnar

2. Your DH bike probably has a tiny saddle and the saddle angle in "party mode" e.g. nose angled up, which actually has a significant impact on the seat being out of the way. Most people run their trail bike saddle angle at most flat, if not heavily angled down to support your hips on climbs. This really affects the ability for the seat to "get out of the way", especially if it is a longer/wider saddle.

3. Your DH bike probably has a much higher stack, naturally biasing your body weight rearwards and letting you stand a little taller in your attack position

Not all of these are always applicable, but generally why you can get away with a higher post on a DH bike than on a trail bike. The desire for a trail bike to have an even lower seat height is further exacerbated if you are a taller rider with a smaller bike who needs to get way lower in order to compensate for shit bike fit

 They come in black for $50 less.

 Lots of options in the dropper post colors... Black, Black, Black, and Gold.

 Buy a geometron XXL. 555mm reach. It is what you want.

That said, if you are not looking to drop that much change, the new Sentinel, Commencal Meta, hell even the new Stumpy all have reach measurements that are nice and long (520ish)

Only issue is that as the average height person yearns (or the industry pushes) for longer and longer bikes, they are keeping stack heights relatively static or even lower, so taller folks are getting screwed in that regard. That said, still miles better for us giraffes than 5 years ago. Get used to a slightly flexy front-end from all the spacers and get some high-rise bars.

I'm running 42mm spacers under my G1 stem, with 3-inch rise bars and I still wouldn't mind a little more stack

 We just need seatpost manufacturers to make forward offset rail clamps - and to revive the Fizik Thar (which allows you to slam the seat forward)

 This. I’m climbing soooo far back on my XXL bike with a 210mm dropper.

Norco is one of the few brands that realized the sta should get steeper as the bike gets bigger on the sight. I hope other brands follow suit.

 My Privateer Bikes 161 is game changing for me, 80 degree seatpost angle or something. I have never experienced climbing with my weight between the wheels without whispering sweet nothings into my stem's ear before. The thing is heavier and has a ton more travel and climbs better than my old bike by a wide margin.

 @bigbrett: Reach isn't the number that matters. The reach is a measure between the bottom bracket and the handlebars. The actual seat tube angle and the difference between it and the effective seat angle is the only thing that matters for this issue. If you have an effective seat angle of 79 degrees but an actual seat angle of 60 degrees which is surprisingly common you will have tall riders out past the back wheel.

 @Patrick9-32: Sure, that is only true while sitting though.....My response to OP was assuming he meant hanging off the back of the bike while descending so he doesn't go OTB. Rereading it he mentioned the seat post so I guess he was talking about climbing tho so your point is very valid and also a huge issue for us tall folks.

Once you get out of the saddle to descend though, reach is (mostly) what matters in terms of feeling "in" the bike and giving it any semblance of a sweet spot. For us tall folks on short reach bikes there is literally no margin for error when it comes to properly weighting the front end. All it takes is little too much weight forward and you are OTB, so you spend your life hanging off the back end developing bad habits because nobody makes a bike that is long enough.

No one geometry number matters, but when it comes to a bike actually "fitting" when you descend (which is 95% of the reason I prefer to ride bikes...) then reach is mostly the defining factor.

The STA issue is real though, and definitely annoyance when climbing.

Thankfully things are changing.....

 @bigbrett: Definitely agree that for descending reach is super important and also that there is not one number that matters in general. I was talking about the specific issue of feeling like you are over the rear axle when seated pedalling which is what I read it as ddbiked talking about.

 The Tranz-X Kitsuma is the best dropper for 95% of peoples needs. Its the cheapest, works well, and the base model than nearly all other droppers actually are before branding.

 No kidding. My Kash 36 and X2 are lonely, and I'm extremely vain.

 You're really hung up on that 203 huh?

 @RonSauce: Yes sir Ron, I need it to match my 40 with 203mm of travel and my 203mm rotor

 You know 203mm is just 8 inches right? It isnt like its some arbitrary number.

 @RonSauce: and to match my 203mm gentleman's sausage

 200.99

 203

 Pick a dropper post length and be a dick about it

 Pretty sure my RAAW Madonna V2 can handle that. It is basically bottomless since the seattube is open behind the shock.

 @gafoto:
Thank you for directing me towards my next bike. Unfortunately they’re sold out.

 @gtdude:
I think Privateer adopted the same design for the 161 (maybe 141 too). It’s a good style.

 Its actually 10.69mm

 somehow i know you're wrong. oh, calipers are the reason i know.

 man, I've been a high person most my life. finally some recognition!

 You should screw down the collar and grease it. Super easy and you'll be happy that you did that after another season.

 but they aren't gold, also they have a smoother action than the oneups